Wm.  Head  & Sons, 

f 13  FANEUIL  HALL  SQUARE,  B08T0N. 


FINE  GUNS,SH00TING  I FISHING  TACKLE 

Constantly  on  hand  a large  stock  of  Double  and  Single  Guns,  comprising  EVERY 
VARIETY  and  make,  muzzle-loading  and  breech-loading,  and  ALL  articles  pertaining  to 
them. 

ALL  THE  BEST  BREECH-LOADERS, 

“Scott’s,”  “ Westley  Richard’s,”  “ Webley’s,”  “ Greener’s,”  “Moore’s,”  “ W.  Rich- 
ard’s, of  Liverpool,”  “ Ellis’s,”  and  all  others.  Also  the  “ Roper,” 
and  other  American  makes. 

We  maize  a specialty  of“W.  & C.  Scott  & Son’s  ” fine  Breech- Load- 
ing Double  GrtinSf  which  for  fine , elegant  finish,  and  close  and  strong  shooting  powers 
are  unsurpassed.  Scott’s  New  Booh  on  Breech-Loaders f elegantly  bound  in 
Morocco , sent  on  receipt  of  25  cts • 


kk 


99 


FINE  MUZZLE-LOADERS, 

IN  GREAT  VARIETY, 

FOR  SNIPE,  PLOVER,  & DUCK  SHOOTING, 

Bored  to  Slioot  Close  and  Strong. 

Persons  ordering  from  a distance,  by  stating  SIZE,  BORE,  WEIGHT,  &c.,  will  be 
served  as  well  as  if  present.  Fine  Breech-Loading  or  Muzzle-Loading  Guns  imported  to 
order  of  any  make  or  size. 

“FISHING-TACKLE”  IN  ALL  ITS  BRANCHES. 

ALSO,  FINE 

“BRONZE  YACHT-GUNS” 

One-poundcrs,  mounted  on  Mahogany  Carriages,  complete.  Also, 

“BUSSEY’S”  PATENT  GYRO-PIGEON  AND  TRAP, 

A Substitute  for  live  Birds  in  Shooting- Hatches. 

ALSO, 

MAYNARD’S,  WESSON’S,  WINCHESTER’S,  AND  ALL  OTHER  RIFLES! 

CLOSING  OUT,  A SMALL  LOT  OF 

“Ballard”  Breech-Loading  Rifles  at  $18.00  — all  new  and  of  latest 
model  — regular  price,  $38.00! 

fly  SEND  FOR  PRICE-LISTS  AND  CIRCULARS.  JBA 


ADVENiJhES 


V.'ILPERNESS ; 


OR, 

Camp-Life  in  the  Adirondacks. 

By  REV,  WILLIAM  H.  H.  MURRAY. 

1 vol.  16mo.  $ 1.50.  Tourists’  Edition,  containing  an  excellent  map  of  the  Adi- 
rondack Willderness,  indicating  all  the  Routes,  Lakes,  and  notable  Places  ; also  Maps 
and  Tables  showing  routes  and  distances  to  this  summer  resort  which  Mr.  Murray’s 
fascinating  book  has  brought  so  prominently  to  public  notice.  $2.00. 


“ In  the  little  book  before  us,  Mr.  Murray  describes  the  incidents  of  a summer’s  rambles  in 
the  Adirondacks,  spent  in  fishing  and  hunting.  He  not  only  tells  you  how  to  ‘ rig  ’ a line, 
bait  a hook,  manage  a gun,  kill,  cure,  and  cook  game,  with  all  the  zest  of  the  professional 
sportsman,  but  he  enters  right  into  the  heart  of  Nature,  and  pictures  her  in  all  her  vary- 
ing phases We  know  of  no  sportsman  who  writes  so  lovingly  and  so  graphically 

unless  it  be  immortal  Kit  North,  and  Mr.  Murray’s  trout  is  worthy  to  rank  with  the  latter’s 
famous  capture  of  the  salmon.” — Chicago  Tribune. 

“This  book  is  a guide  to  the  best  hunting  and  fishing  region  of  America.  It  is  more  ; 
for  its  descriptions  are  charming,  and  the  pure  gold  of  enchantment  is  thrown  over  them,  so 
that  the  book  is  bewitching  to  a novice  in  the  sportsman’s  art.  We  predict  for  it  an  im- 
mense sale  and  a multitude  of  enthusiastic  friends.”  — Providence  Pre#e. 


ON  THE  WING: 

A BOOK  FOR  SPORTSMEN. 

By  JOHN  BUMSTEAD. 

FULLY  ILLUSTRATED 16mo.  $2.50. 


“ ‘ A Book  for  Sportsmen.’  A more  accurate  description  would  be  ‘ a book  which  no 
sportsman  can  do  without.’  Mr.  Bumstead  is  authority  upon  all  the  topics  of  which  he 
treats,  including  clear  instructions  for  the  selection  and  use  of  guns,  very  full  and  valuable 
hints  for  the  student’s  guidance  in  different  kinds  of  shooting,  in  buying  gunpowder,  in 
training  dogs,  and  in  fitting  himself  out  for  the  woods,  a very  interesting  description  of  how 
gun-barrels  are  made,  and  an  appendix  which  is  full  of  practical  information.”  — Hartford 
Courant. 

“ All  fond  of  sporting  will  find  in  it  valuable  suggestions  as  to  selecting  guns  and  caring 
for  them,  shooting  woodcock,  quail,  grouse,  snipe,  rabbits,  and  all  kinds  of  water-fowl, 
together  with  interesting  details  as  to  the  manufacture  of  guns,  gunpowder,  &c.”  — Rural 
New  Yorker. 

“ It  is  the  best  work  of  the  kind  ever  published  in  this  country.”  — Buffalo  Commercial 
Advertiser. 


V Eor  sale  by  Booksellers.  Sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price  by 
the  Publishers, 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  A CO.,  Boston. 


NOTICE:  Return  or  renew  all  Library  Materials!  The  Minimum  Fee  for 
each  Lost  Book  is  $50.00. 

The  person  charging  this  material  is  responsible  for 
its  return  to  the  library  from  which  it  was  withdrawn 
on  or  before  the  Latest  Date  stamped  below. 

Theft,  mutilation,  and  underlining  of  books  are  reasons  for  discipli- 
nary action  and  may  result  in  dismissal  from  the  University. 

To  renew  call  Telephone  Center,  333-8400 


NEW  ENGLAND: 

A 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS. 

A GUIDE  TO 


THE  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  POPULAR  RESORTS  OF  NEW  ENGLAND, 
AND  TO  ITS  SCENERY  AND  HISTORIC  ATTRACTIONS  : 
WITH  THE  WESTERN  AND  NORTHERN  BORDERS, 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


With  Six  Maps  and  Eleven  Elans. 


BOSTON: 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  AND  COMPANY, 

Late  Ticknor  & Fields,  and  Fields,  Osgood,  & Co. 

1873. 


OF  THE 

U N I V E.  R_S  ITY 
Of  ILLI  NOIS 

from 

Carl  Sandburg’s  Library 

917.4 

Sw3n 

1873 


NEW  ENGLAND: 

A 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS. 

A GUIDE  TO 


THE  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  POPULAR  RESORTS  OF  NEW  ENGLAND, 
AND  TO  ITS  SCENERY  AND  HISTORIC  ATTRACTIONS: 
WITH  THE  WESTERN  AND  NORTHERN  BORDERS, 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


With  Six  Maps  and  Eleven  Elans. 


BOSTON : 

•V 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  AND  COMPANY, 

Late  Ticknor  & Fields,  and  Fields,  Osgood,  & Co. 

1873. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1873, 
BY  JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  & CO., 
in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


University  Press:  Welch,  Bigelow,  & Co. 
Cambridge. 


*}/7.  V 

S^3  n 
1^73 

PREFACE. 

\ 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  New  England  is  to 
supply  the  place  of  a guide  in  a land  where  professional  guides 
cannot  he  found,  and  to  assist  the  traveller  in  gaining  the  greatest 
possible  amount  of  pleasure  and  information  while  passing 
through  the  most  ancient  and  interesting  district  of  Anglo- 
Saxon  America.  New  England  has  hitherto  been  but  casually 
treated  in  books  which  cover  wider  sections  of  country  ; special 
localities  within  its  borders  have  been  described  with  more  or 
less  fidelity  in  local  guide-books  ; but  the  present  volume  is  the 
first  which  has  been  devoted  to  its  treatment  according  to  the 
most  approved  principles  of  the  European  works  of  similar 
purpose  and  character.  The  Handbook  is  designed  to  enable 
travellers  to  visit  all  or  any  of  the  notable  places  in  New 
England,  with  economy  of  money,  time,  and  temper,  by  giving 
lists  of  the  hotels  with  their  prices,  descriptions  of  the  various 
routes  by  land  and  water,  and  maps  and  plans  of  the  principal 
cities.  The  letter-press  contains  epitomes  of  the  histories  of  the 
old  coast  and  border  towns,  statements  of  the  principal  scenic 
attractions,  descriptions  of  the  art  and  architecture  of  the  cities, 
biographical  sketches  in  connection  with  the  birthplaces  of 
eminent  men,  and  statistics  of  the  chief  industries  of  the  included 
States.  The  half-forgotten  but  worthy  and  heroic  records  of  the 
early  colonial  era  and  the  French  and  Indian  wars  have  received 
special  attention  in  connection  with  the  localities  rendered  classic 
in  those  remote  days,  while  numerous  Indian  legends  will  be 
found  in  various  places.  The  operations  of  the  Wars  of  the 
Revolution  and  of  1812  (so  far  as  they  affected  this  section  of 
the  Republic)  have  been  carefully  studied  and  localized,  and  the 
rise  of  the  great  modern  manufacturing  cities  has  been  traced 


1Y 


PREFACE. 


and  recorded.  The  famous  summer-resorts  — among  the  moun- 
tains and  by  the  sea  — with  which  New  England  abounds,  and 
which  are  thronged  by  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  country, 
have  been  described  at  length  in  these  pages. 

The  plan  and  structure  of  the  book,  its  system  of  treatment 
and  forms  of  abbreviation,  have  been  derived  from  the  European 
Handbooks  of  Karl  Baedeker.  The  typography,  binding,  and 
system  of  city  plans  also  resemble  those  of  Baedeker,  and  hence 
the  grand  desiderata  of  compactness  and  portability,  which 
have  made  his  works  the  most  popular  in  Europe,  have  also  been 
attained  in  the  present  volume.  Nearly  all  the  facts  concerning 
the  routes,  hotels,  and  scenic  attractions  have  been  framed  or 
verified  from  the  Editor’s  personal  experience,  after  fifteen 
months  of  almost  incessant  travelling  for  this  express  purpose. 
But  infallibility  is  impossible  in  a work  of  this  nature,  especially 
amid  the  rapid  changes  which  are  ever  going  on  in  America,  and 
hence  the  Editor  would  be  grateful  for  any  bond  fide  correc- 
tions or  suggestions  with  which  either  travellers  or  residents  may 
favor  him.  He  would  also  thankfully  acknowledge  his  indebted- 
ness to  the  gentlemen  who  have  revised  the  book  in  advance  of 
publication. 

The  maps  and  plans  of  cities  have  been  prepared  with  the 
greatest  care,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  material  service  to  all 
who  may  trust  to  their  directions.  They  are  based  on  the  system 
of  lettered  and  numbered  squares,  with  figures  corresponding  to 
similar  figures  attached  to  lists  of  the  chief  public  buildings, 
hotels,  churches,  and  notable  objects.  The  most  trustworthy 
time-tables  are  found  in  “ Snow’s  Pathfinder  Bail  way  Guide,” 
with  map,  published  weekly  at  Boston  (price  15  c.).  The  hotels 
indicated  by  asterisks  are  those  which  are  believed  by  the  Editor 
to  be  the  most  comfortable  and  elegant. 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

I.  Language 1 

II.  Money  and  Travelling  Expenses 1 

III.  Railways  and  Steamboats.  The  Check  System  ....  1 

IV.  Excursions  on  Foot 2 

V.  Hotels 3 

VI.  Round-Trip  Excursions 4 

VII.  Climate  and  Dress 4 

VIII.  Miscellaneous  Notes 4 

NEW  ENGLAND. 

ROUTE 

1.  Boston  5 

2.  Environs  of  Boston 20 

1.  Boston  Harbor.  The  Route  to  Nahant 20 

2.  Nahant 21 

3.  The  Route  to  Hull,  Hingham,  &c 22 

4.  Hull * 23 

5.  Hingham.  Charlestown 24 

6.  Chelsea.  Revere  Beach 27 

7.  Lexington  and  Concord 28 

8.  Cambridge.  Harvard  University 29 

9.  Mount  Auburn 33 

10.  Brookline 35 

11.  Roxbury 36 

3.  Boston  to  New  York  by  Newport 36 

1.  Newport  . 40 

2.  The  Approach  to  New  York 47 

4.  Boston  to  S.  Duxbury 48 

5.  Boston  to  Plymouth 51 

6.  Boston  to  Cape  Cod  ...  .54 

1.  Fairhaven  Branch 54 

2.  Marshpee 56 

7.  Boston  to  Martha’s  Vineyard  and  Nantucket  . . . .58 

1.  Gayhead 60 

8.  Boston  to  New  York  by  Providence 62 

1.  Providence 63 

2.  Providence  to  Newport.  Narragansett  Bay 65 

3.  Providence  to  Warren  and  Bristol 66 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


ROUTE  PAGE 

4.  Narragansett  Pier 68 

5.  Watch  Hill  Point 70 

6.  Stonington  to  New  York.  Block  Island 71 

7.  New  Haven 77 

9.  Boston  to  New  Bedford 90 

1.  New  Bedford  to  Martha’s  Vineyard.  The  Elizabeth  Islands  . 92 

10.  Providence  to  Worcester 93 

11.  Providence  to  Hartford  and  Waterbury 94 

12.  New  London  to  Vermont 96 

1.  S.  Vernon  to  Keene 102 

13.  Norwich  to  Nashua 104 

14.  Saybrook  to  Hartford 106 

15.  New  Haven  to  Northampton 108 

16.  Bridgeport  to  Winsted Ill 

17.  Bridgeport  to  the  Berkshire  Hills 114 

18.  S.  Norwalk  to  Danbury 115 

19.  Boston  to  New  York  (by  Norwich) 117 

1.  Boston  to  Woonsocket 120 

20.  Hartford  to  Salisbury  and  Millerton 120 

21.  Boston  to  New  York  (by  Springfield) 124 

1.  S.  Framingham  to  Lowell  and  to  Mansfield  ....  125 

2.  S.  Framingham  to  Fitchburg 126 

3.  Worcester 127 

4.  Springfield 131 

5.  Hartford  . 134 

22.  Boston  to  Albany,  Saratoga,  and  the  West 141 

23.  The  Berkshire  Hillst 142 

1.  Pittsfield  and  its  Environs  . .....  . 144 

2.  Stockbridge 149 

3.  N.  Adams 154 

24.  New  York  to  Quebec.  The  Connecticut  Valley  towns  . . 157 

1.  Mount  Holyoke 160 

2.  Lake  Memphremagog 171 

25.  Boston  to  the  Hoosac  Tunnel 175 

26.  Boston  to  Burlington  (and  Montreal) 179 

1.  Fitchburg  to  Peterboro’  . 179 

27.  Rutland  to  Bennington 184 

28.  Rutland  to  Albany 187 

1.  Rutland  and  Washington  Line 187 

29.  Boston  to  Lowell,  Concord,  and  Montreal 188 

1.  Lowell 189 

2.  Nashua  to  Wilton  192 

3.  Concord  to  Claremont 196 

4.  St.  Albans  to  Richford 206 

5.  St.  Albans  to  Rouse’s  Point  . . 207 

30.  Boston  to  the  Franconia  Mountains 209 

31.  Boston  to  the  White  Mountains 213 

1.  Rochester  to  Portland 213 


CONTENTS. 


vii 

ROUTE  PAGE 

32.  Lake  Winnepesaukee  and  the  Sandwich  Mountains  . . . 215 

1.  Centre  Harbor  to  Conway 219 

2.  Chocorua  and  Ossipee 220 

33.  The  White  Mountains  and  North  Conway 221 

1.  North  Conway 223 

2.  North  Conway  to  the  Glen  House  and  Gorham  ....  225 

3.  Gorham 227 

4.  Gorham  to  the  Notch 229 

5.  North  Conway  to  the  Notch 230 

6.  The  Crawford  House  to  the  Profile  House 233 

7.  Mount  Washington 234 

34.  The  Franconia  Mountains  and  the  Pemigewasset  Valley  . . 238 

1.  The  Profile  House  to  Plymouth 241 

2.  Water ville  and  Campton 242 

35.  The  Percy  Peaks,  Dixyille  Notch,  and  Lake  Umbagog  . . 243 

1.  Colebrook  to  Umbagog  and  Rangeley 244 

2.  Connecticut  Lake 245 

36.  Boston  to  Cape  Ann 245 

37.  Boston  to  Portland  and  St.  John 248 

• 1.  Peabody,  Lowell,  and  Lawrence  Branches  . . . ■ . . 255 

2.  Marblehead  Branch 255 

3.  Essex  Branch 257 

4.  Amesbury  Branch 261 

5.  The  Isles  of,  Shoals 265 

6.  Portsmouth  to  Concord 267 

7.  Portland  and  its  Environs 270 

8.  Casco  Bay 274 

38.  Boston  to  Portland 275 

1.  Wakefield  to  Newburyport 276 

2.  Lawrence  to  Lowell  or  Manchester 279 

3.  Dover  to  Lake  Winnepesaukee 282 

39.  Portland  to  the  White  Mountains 284 

1.  Lake  Sebago 284 

40.  Portland  to  Quebec  and  Montreal  .......  287 

1.  Mechanic  Falls  to  Canton 287 

2.  Bethel  to  Lake  Umbagog 289 

41.  Portland  to  Farmington  and  the  Western  Maine  Forest  . 291 

1.  Farmington  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes  . . ....  292 

42.  Portland  to  the  Upper  Kennebec 293 

43.  Boston  or  Portland  to  Moosehead  Lake 295 

44.  Portland  to  Rockland 297 

1.  Wiscasset  to  Boothbay 299 

2.  Damaris  cotta  to  Bristol  and  Pemaquid 299 

45.  Portland  to  Mount  Desert 302 

1.  Castine 

2.  Bar  Harbor 304 

3.  Southwest  Harbor 306 

4.  Mount  Desert  to  Machiasport 307 


CONTENTS. 


viii 


ROUTE  PAGE 

46.  Portland  to  Lewiston  and  Bangor 307 

47.  Portland  to  Augusta  and  Bangor 309 

48.  Boston  to  Bangor.  The  Penobscot  Kiver 316 

49.  Bangor  to  St.  John  . 318 

1.  Fredericton,  N.  B 319 

2.  St.  John  River 320 


50.  The  New  Brunswick  Border,  Eastport  to  Madawaska  . . 321 


THE  WESTERN  AND  NORTHERN  BORDERS  OF  NEW  ENGLAND. 


51.  New  York  City 

1.  Central  Park 

2.  Brooklyn 

52.  New  York  to  Albany.  The  Hudson  River  . 

1.  The  Highlands 

2.  The  Catskill  Mountains 

3.  Albany 

53.  Albany  to  Montreal 

1.  Saratoga 

2.  Fort  Edward  to  Whitehall  or  Caldwell 

3.  Lake  George 

4.  Lake  Champlain  

54.  Montreal  and  its  Environs  .... 

1.  Lachine  Rapids 

2.  Victoria  Bridge 

55.  Montreal  to  Quebec.  The  St.  Lawrence  River 

56.  Quebec 

1.  Ste.  Anne  and  Chateau  Richer  . 

2.  The  Saguenay  River 

MAPS. 

1.  General  Map  of  New  England  : in  pocket. 

2.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Boston  : in  pocket. 

3.  Map  of  Nahant. 

4.  Map  of  Lake  Winnepesaukee. 

5.  Map  of  the  White  and  Franconia  Mountains. 

6.  Map  of  the  Hudson  River. 


325 

336 

339 

340 
343 

347 

348 
350 
350 
355 
?57 
361 
368 

372 

373 
373 
375 

384 

385 


PLANS  OF  CITIES,  &c. 

Boston,  Hartford,  Montreal,  New  Haven,  New  York,  Newport,  Portland, 
Providence,  Quebec,  Central  Park,  Mount  Auburn  Cemetery. 


ABBREVIATIONS. 

M.  = mile  ; hr.  = hour  ; min.  = minute  ; ft.  = foot  or  feet ; r.  = right ; 1.  = left ; 
N.  — north  ; S.  = south  ; E.  = east ; W.  = west. 

ASTERISKS 

denote  objects  deserving  of  special  attention. 


NEW  ENGLAND. 


“ Nobis  eternum  reliquerunt  monumentura, 

Novanglorum  mcenia.” 

“Nova  Anglia” : a Latin  poem  by  Morrell,  1625. 

New  England  is  the  northeastern  portion  of  the  United  States,  and 
comprises  the  States  of  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts, 
Connecticut,  and  Rhode  Island.  It  is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  and  Long  Island  Sound,  on  the  W.  by  the  State  of  New  York,  on  the 
N.  by  the  Province  of  Quebec,  and  on  the  E.  by  the  province  of  New  Bruns- 
wick and  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  lies  between  the  latitudes  41°  and  48° 
N.  and  the  longitudes  67°  and  74°  W.  from  Greenwich,  and  has  an  area 
of  65,000  square  M.,  with  a population  of  3,487,924  (census  of  1870). 
The  principal  religious  sect  is  the  Congregational,  which  has  190,473 
members;  the  Episcopal  Church  has  38,098;  and  the  Methodists  have 
70,000.  The  Catholics  and  the  Baptists  (114,000)  are  also  strong  in 
numbers,  while  Unitarianism  has  here  its  chief  power.  A high  standard 
of  education  prevails  among  the  people,  and  is  supported  by  an  extensive 
school-system  and  several  renowned  colleges.  The  New-Englanders  have 
always  been  distinguished  for  a marked  individuality  of  thought,  by 
reason  of  which  the  most  advanced  and  radical  schools  of  philosophy, 
politics,  and  religion  have  arisen  or  have  been  developed  here.  The 
nature  of  the  climate  and  of  the  soil  has  rendered  agriculture  less 
profitable  than  at  the  West,  and  the  strength  of  the  section  has  been 
found  in  the  establishment  and  maintenance  of  vast  manufacturing  indus- 
tries. The  coast  extends  in  a direct  line  for  over  700  M.,  with  many 
spacious  harbors;  and  the  maritime  cities  are  celebrated  for  their  skilful 
seamen  and  for  their  large  fleets  of  merchant-ships.  This  district  was 
granted  by  James  I.  to  the  Plymouth  Company  (in  1606)  under  the  name 
of  North  Virginia;  but  Capt.  John  Smith,  having  surveyed  and  mapped 
the  coast  in  1614,  gave  it  the  name  of  New  England. 

Maine 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Atlantic,  on  the  W.  by  N.  H.,  on  the  N.  by 
Canada,  and  on  the  E.  by  New  Brunswick.  It  is  the  most  northeastern  of 
the  United  States,  and  the  largest  of  the  States  of  New  England.  It  has 
an  area  of  31,766  square  M.,  with  a population  of  626,915,  and  a valuation 
of  $ 223,254,860.  It  is  divided  into  16  counties,  and  has  13  small  cities, 


X 


MAINE. 


the  chief  of  which  is  Portland,  while  the  capital  is  Augusta,  at  the  head 
of  ship-navigation  on  the  Kennebec  River.  The  coast  of  “ hundred-har- 
bored Maine’’  is  remarkably  picturesque,  with  deep  fiords  running  up 
between  bold  peninsulas,  and  with  archipelagos  of  beautiful  islands  resting 
in  quiet  and  extensive  bays.  The  direct  line  of  the  coast  from  Kittery 
Point  to  Quoddy  Head  is  278  M.,  but  the  deep  curves  of  the  bays  and 
estuaries  give  an  actual  shore-line  of  nearly  2,500  M.  Mt.  Desert  (60,000 
acres)  is  the  largest  of  the  many  islands  which  front  the  ocean,  and  Mon- 
hegan  is  the  most  distant  from  the  mainland.  The  great  rivers  Penob- 
scot, Kennebec,  and  St.  Croix  empty  into  the  sea  on  this  coast,  and 
furnish  wide  and  convenient  harbors.  Nearly  J of  the  area  of  Maine  is 
still  covered  with  primeval  forests,  and  the  lumber-trade  is  the  chief 
industry  of  the  State.  The  trees  are  felled  and  hauled  to  the  water- 
courses during  the  winter,  and  in  the  spring  they  are  united  in  vast  rafts 
and  floated  down  to  the  river  cities.  In  the  S.  and  E.  of  the  great  forest 
is  a broken  range  of  mountains,  the  loftiest  of  which  is  Mt.  Katahdin 
(5,385  ft.  high),  -fa  of  Maine  is  covered  with  water,  the  principal  lakes 
being  Moosehead,  Chesuncook,  and  the  Rangeley,  Madawaska,  and 
Schoodic  groups. 

The  Maine  coast  was  first  visited  by  Gosnold  in  1602,  and  in  1607  the 
short-lived  Sagadahoc  colony  settled  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec 
River.  The  French  colonies  at  the  St.  Croix  River  and  Mt.  Desert  were 
but  ephemeral,  and  several  other  attempts  proved  equally  unsuccessful, 
partly  owing  to  the  hostility  between  the  claimants  of  the  territory  (the 
French  and  English),  and  the  distrust  of  the  Indians  for  both  of  them. 
The  island  of  Monhegan  was  settled  in  1622,  and  Saco  was  founded  in 
1623.  When  the  Plymouth  Company  broke  up,  in  1635,  Sir  Ferdinando 
Gorges  received  by  royal  charter  the  province  of  Maine  (then  first  so 
called).  In  1642  his  son  founded  the  city  of  Gorgeana  (York),  but  in 
1651  Mass,  absorbed  Maine,  being  sustained  by  the  exigencies  of  the 
times  and  by  the  Puritan  Parliament  of  England.  After  some  resistance 
on  the  part  of  the  Maine  proprietors,  Mass,  bought  out  their  interest,  and 
thenceforward  ruled  the  northern  province  for  nearly  170  years  with  a 
firm  and  beneficial  sway.  From  1675  until  3760  a disastrous  succession 
of  Indian  wars  ensued,  in  which  every  twentieth  settler  was  killed  or 
captured  and  many  towns  were  destroyed.  The  bombardment  of  Port- 
land (1775)  and  the  naval  battle  at  Castine  (1779)  were  the  chief  events 
during  the  Revolution,  but  the  coast  was  badly  harried  during  the  War 
of  1812.  In  1820  Maine  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  the  twenty- 
third  State. 

New  Hampshire 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Mass.,  on  the  W.  by  Vt.,  on  the  N.  by  the 
province  of  Quebec,  and  on  the  E.  by  Maine  and  the  Atlantic.  It  has  an 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE  — VERMONT. 


XI 


area  of  9,280  square  M.,  with  a population  of  318,300,  and  a valuation  of 
$ 162,987,177.  It  is  divided  into  10  counties,  with  234  towns  and  5 cities, 
and  the  capital  is  Concord,  on  the  Merrimac  River.  There  is  an  ocean- 
front  of  18  M.,  which  is  bordered  by  level  plains  stretching  inland,  while 
just  off  the  coast  are  the  remarkable  Isles  of  Shoals,  formerly  famed  for 
their  fisheries  and  now  a favorite  summer-resort.  Beyond  the  sea-shore 
plains  the  country  assumes  a more  rugged  and  broken  appearance,  with 
numerous  isolated  summits  and  hill-ranges  which  culminate  in  the  White 
Mts.,  covering  over  40  square  M.  of  a picturesque  district  which  is  called 
“ the  Switzerland  of  America.”  The  lakes  of  N.  H.  cover  110,000  acres, 
and  the  most  beautiful  of  their  number  is  Winnepesaukee,  which  has  69 
square  M.  of  extent,  and  contains  300  islands.  The  soil  of  the  State  is 
not  fertile,  but  it  has  much  mineral  wealth  ; and  the  climate,  though 
severe,  is  very  healthful.  There  are  extensive  primeval  forests  in  the  N. 
(Coos  County),  in  whose  recesses  wolves  and  bears  still  are  found  ; and  the 
remote  lakes  and  streams  afford  fine  fishing.  The  Connecticut,  Saco,  and 
Merrimac  Rivers  have  their  sources  in  N.  H. , and  on  the  water-power 
afforded  by  the  latter  large  manufacturing  cities  are  located.  There  are 
42  national  banks,  with  a capital  of  $ 5,135,000  ; and  54  savings-banks, 
with  deposits  amounting  to  $ 25,303,235.  The  manufactures  of  cotton  and 
woollen  goods,  iron  and  leather,  are  the  chief  mechanical  industries,  and 
centre  at  the  cities  of  Manchester  and  Nashua.  The  press  of  the  State 
consists  of  8 daily  papers,  36  weeklies,  and  6 monthlies. 

The  N.  H.  coast  was  first  visited  by  the  Europeans  in  1614,  and  settle- 
ments were  founded  at  Dover  and  Portsmouth  about  1623.  The  district 
was  for  many  years  under  the  government  of  Mass.,  and  was  afterwards 
ceded  to  N.  Y.,  while  the  incessant  inroads  of  the  Indians  devastated  the 
frontiers  for  nearly  80  years.  The  chief  incidents  of  these  wars  were  the 
destruction  of  Dover  (1689),  and  the  battle  of  Pequawket.  In  1741  N.  H. 
became  a royal  province,  and  in  1776  it  led  the  secession  from  the  British 
Empire,  giving  freely  of  its  men  and  money  to  the  cause  of  independence. 

Vermont 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Mass. , on  the  W.  by  N.  Y.  and  Lake  Champlain, 
on  the  N.  by  Canada,  and  on  the  E.  by  N.  H.  It  has  an  area  of  9,056  M., 
with  a population  of  330,551,  and  a valuation  of  $ 142,612,356.  It  is 
divided  into  14  counties,  and  has  but  2 small  cities,  the  great  majority  of 
the  people  being  engaged  in  farming.  The  centre  of  the  State  is  trav- 
ersed from  N.  to  S.  by  the  Green  Mts.,  whose  smooth  and  rounded  sum- 
mits form  a marked  contrast  with  the  sharp  peaks  of  the  White  Mts. 
The  chief  of  the  Green  Mts.  are  Mt.  Mansfield  (4,359  ft.),  Camel’s  Hump 
(4,188  ft.),  Killington  and  Pico  Peaks,  and  Mt.  Ascutney.  The  E.  slope 
is  watered  by  several  streams  which  flow  into  the  Connecticut  River, 


Xll 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


while  the  W.  slope  sinks  into  the  broad  and  fertile  plains  which  border 
Lake  Champlain  and  are  traversed  by  Otter  Creek  and  the  Winooski, 
Lamoille,  and  Missisqnoi  Rivers.  The  Lakes  Memphremagog,  Willoughby, 
Dunmore,  Bomaseen,  and  St.  Catharine  are  pleasant  summer-resorts,  and 
the  great  Lake  Champlain  affords  an  avenue  for  an  extensive  international 
commerce,  whose  chief  centre  is  the  port  of  Burlington.  The  evergreen 
forests  on  the  mountains  alternate  with  broad  pasture-plains,  and  the 
deciduous  groves  on  the  lowlands  are  interspersed  with  tillage-fields  of  rich 
loamy  soil,  so  that  Vt.  has  become  the  most  agricultural  of  the  Northern 
States,  and  exceeds  all  others  (proportionally  to  her  population)  in  the 
production  of  wool,  live  stock,  maple  sugar,  butter  and  cheese,  hay,  hops, 
and  potatoes.  In  1871  there  were  made  here  8,000  tons  of  butter,  2,400 
tons  of  cheese,  and  4,500  tons  of  inaple-sugar.  Extensive  quarries  of  fine 
statuary  and  variegated  marble  and  serpentine  have  been  opened  in  the  S. 
counties,  and  vast  quantities  of  slate  have  been  exported  from  the  same 
region. 

The  first  European  who  saw  Vt.  was  Jacques  Cartier,  who,  in  1535, 
looked  upon  its  high  ridges  from  Mount  Royal  (Montreal).  Its  coast  was 
explored  by  Champlain  and  others  in  1609,  and  prosperous  French  settle- 
ments were  made  (in  Addison)  later  in  the  17th  century.  In  1724  Mass, 
built  Fort  Dummer  (near  the  present  town  of  Brattleboro) ; but  the  num- 
bers and  ferocity  of  the  Indians  prevented  colonization  until  after  the 
conquest  of  Canada  (1760).  The  territory  was  then  partly  occupied  under 
grants  from  N.  H.,  until  it  was  ceded  to  N.  Y. ; and  thereafter  ensued  a 
controversy  in  which  the  settlers  successfully  resisted  the  authorities  of 
N.  Y.  until  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution,  when  they  proclaimed  Ver- 
mont ( Verts  Monts , or  Green  Mts. ) an  independent  State.  Congress  twice 
refused  to  acknowledge  the  new  State,  although  its  soldiers  (“  the  Green 
Mountain  Boys  ”)  captured  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  and  annihilated 
the  flower  of  Burgoyne’s  German  auxiliaries  at  the  battle  of  Bennington. 
In  1791,  after  paying  New  York  $30,000  in  liquidation  of  all  claims,  Vt. 
was  admitted  into  the  Union  (the  14tli  State),  and  since  that  time  has 
prospered  and  steadily  increased  in  wealth  and  population. 

Massachusetts 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Conn,  and  R.  I.,  on  the  W.  by  N.  Y.,  on  the  N. 
by  Vt.  and  N.  H.,  and  on  the  E.  by  the  Atlantic.  It  has  an  area  of  7,800 
square  M.,  with  1,457,351  inhabitants,  and  a valuation  of  $2,132,148,741. 
The  soil  is  not  fertile,  but  considerable  crops  are  gained  by  careful 
cultivation  ; and  the  best  land  is  found  in  the  valleys  of  the  Connecticut 
and  Housatonic  Rivers.  There  is  but  little  level  land  in  the  State,  and  in 
the  W.  counties  the  Taconic  and  Hoosac  Ranges  of  mountains  afford  great 
diversity  of  scenery.  The  Connecticut  River  flows  through  a garden-like 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


xiii 

valley,  with  several  prosperous  towns  ; and  the  Merrimac  (in  the  N.  E. ) 
affords  a vast  water-power  to  Lowell  and  Lawrence,  and  passes  into  the 
sea  at  Newburyport.  The  climate  is  severe  in  the  hill-conn  tries,  and  is 
very  variable  on  the  coast,  — the  mean  temperature  being  between  44  ° 
and  51  As  far  back  as  1855  the  annual  farm  products  amounted  to  over 
$ 21,000,000,  and  at  that  time  the.  State  had  2,250,000  apple-trees.  Profit- 
able beds  of  iron  ore  and  glass  sand  have  been  developed,  and  the  exporta- 
tion of  marble  (from  Berkshire  County)  and  granite  (from  Quincy  and  Cape 
Ann)  has  become  a lucrative  business.  The  State  has  been  celebrated  for 
the  number  and  excellence  of  its  ships,  and  for  the  skill  and  enterprise  of 
its  seamen.  Granite,  ice,  and  fish  are  among  the  chief  articles  of  export ; 
the  latter  being  brought  in  by  the  large  fishing-fleets  of  Cape  Cod  and 
Gloucester.  The  manufacturing  interests  of  the  State  are  of  immense 
extent  and  wide  variety,  and  their  products  for  the  year  1870  were  valued 
at  $ 550,000,000.  Boots  and  shoes,  cotton  goods,  woollens,  iron,  and  paper, 
are  the  chief  manufactures  (named  in  the  order  of  their  importance). 
There  are  160  savings-banks,  with  deposits  amounting  to  $163,535,943. 
In  1871  the  State  debt  was  $ 29,630,364,  of  which  $12,000,000  was  for 
railroad  loans,  and  $ 16,500,000  represented  the  unpaid  balance  of  the  war 
loan. 

The  prevailing  religious  sect  is  the  Congregational,  the  Baptist,  Meth- 
odist, and  Unitarian  churches  being  also  strong,  while  the  Roman  Catholics 
are  rapidly  attaining  great  power  and  influence.  The  educational  insti- 
tutions of  the  State  are  admirably  arranged  and  have  a high  reputation, 
their  efficiency  being  assured  by  the  maintenance  of  four  normal  schools, 
five  colleges,  and  Harvard  University.  The  militia  is  kept  in  a state  of 
high  efficiency  fand  discipline,  and  is  mostly  composed  of  veterans  of 
the  War  of  1861-5. 

The  coast  of  Mass,  was  first  visited  by  the  Norwegian  mariners  Leif  and 
Thorwald,  about  the  year  1000.  After  several  attempts  at  colonization, 
which  were  frustrated  by  the  powerful  native  tribes,  the  Norsemen  aban- 
doned the  country  (which,  from  its  fruitfulness,  they  had  named  Vinland). 
In  1497  John  and  Sebastian  Cabot  cruised  along  the  coast,  and  were  fol- 
lowed by  Cortereal,  Verrazzani,  and  Gomez.  In  1602  Gosnold  explored 
the  S.  E.  islands,  and  planted  an  ephemeral  colony  on  Cuttyhunk,  near 
New  Bedford.  Pring,  Champlain,  and  Weymouth  soon  after  passed  along 
the  coast,  while  Capt.  John  Smith,  following  them  in  1614,  made  a map 
of  the  coast  and  islands.  Dec.  21,  1620,  the  ship  “ Mayflower  ” arrived 
at  Plymouth  with  102  Pilgrims,  who  had  been  driven  from  England  by 
religious  persecution,  and  who  founded  here  the  first  permanent  colony  in 
Mass.  Salem  was  settled  in  1628,  and  Boston  in  1630,  by  Puritan  exiles, 
and  the  Atlantic  coast  and  the  Connecticut  valley  were  soon  dotted  with 
villages  of  bold  and  hardy  immigrants. 


XIV 


CONNECTICUT. 


The  Pequot  War  (1637)  and  King  Philip’s  War  (1675-6)  caused  a fear- 
ful loss  of  life  and  property,  and  several  of  the  valley  towns  were  utterly 
destroyed  before  the  colonial  forces  could  crush  the  insurgent  tribes.  In 
1689  the  province  revolted  against  the  royal  authorities,  and  the  country- 
people  took  Boston  and  its  fortifications  and  guard-frigate,  and  imprisoned 
the  governor  (Sir  Edmund  Andros).  In  1692  Plymouth  was  united  to 
Massachusetts,  and  thereafter,  until  the  conquest  of  Canada  in  1760,  the 
province  was  foremost  in  the  wars  with  the  French  colonies  in  the  N. 
Many  of  her  towns  were  destroyed  by  Indian  raids,  and  the  W.  frontier 
was  nearly  depopulated ; but  the  general  prosperity  was  unchecked,  and 
when  the  British  Parliament  commenced  its  unjust  oppressions,  the  prov- 
ince had  250,000  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  were  trained  veterans  of  the 
Canadian  Wars.  In  face  of  the  royal  army  which  had  been  moved  into 
Boston,  the  men  of  Massachusetts  opened  correspondences  which  brought 
about  a colonial  union  for  mutual  defence,  and  enrolled  themselves  as 
minute-men,  ready  to  march  against  the  British  troops  at  a minute’s 
notice.  The  battles  of  Concord  and  Lexington  were  followed  by  a general 
appeal  to  arms ; and  the  siege  of  Boston,  the  Battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  and 
the  American  occupation  of  the  city  came  in  rapid  succession.  After 
these  events  the  scene  of  war  was  transferred  to  New  York  and  the  South, 
where  the  Massachusetts  regiments  won  high  honor,  especially  in  the 
victorious  campaign  against  Burgoyne’s  invading  army.  In  1780  the  State 
Constitution  was  framed,  and  in  1786  a serious  revolt  occurred  in  the  W. 
counties,  caused  by  the  pressure  of  enormous  taxes.  This  rising  (which 
was  headed  by  Daniel  Shays)  was  put  down  after  a few  skirmishes.  In 
the  War  of  1812  the  State  theoretically  confined  her  exertions  to  the  de- 
fence of  her  own  coast,  though  thousands  of  her  seamen  entered  the 
national  navy.  Extensive  manufacturing  interests  now  rose  rapidly  into 
view,  and  a network  of  railroads  was  stretched  across  the  State.  During 
the  War  for  the  Union  (1861  - 5)  Massachusetts  put  forth  her  utmost 
strength,  and  gave  158,380  men  to  the  armies  of  the  Republic,  besides 
incurring  a war-debt  of  over  $ 50,000,000. 

Connecticut 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Long  Island  Sound,  on  the  W.  by  New  York,  on 
the  N.  by  Mass.,  and  on  the  E.  by  R.  I.  It  has  an  area  of  4,730  square 
M.,  with  537,454  inhabitants,  and  a valuation  of  $ 532,951,061.  There  are 
8 counties,  160  towns,  and  7 cities.  The  soil  is  usually  rugged  and  com- 
paratively unproductive,  although  the  river- valleys  afford  some  rich  lands, 
and  considerable  crops  are  raised  by  laborious  cultivation.  The  tobacco- 
crop  of  1870  amounted  to  8,328,798  pounds,  and  in  the  same  year  were 
made  6,716,007  pounds  of  butter  and  563,328  tons  of  hay.  “The  manu- 
factures of  the  State  are  more  general,  multifarious,  and  productive  than 


CONNECTICUT. 


XV 


those  of  any  other  people  of  similar  means,”  — clocks  and  carriages,  fire- 
arms, tin  and  brittania  ware,  sewing-machines,  iron  and  rubber  goods 
being  the  chief  articles  of  production.  There  are  66  savings-banks,  with 
deposits  amounting  to  $ 55,297,705,  and  many  wealthy  and  powerful 
insurance  companies.  New  Haven  has  a lucrative  West  India  trade, 
while  New  London  has  a considerable  number  of  vessels  engaged  in  sealing 
and  whaling.  The  Conn.  River  is  famous  for  its  valuable  fisheries,  which 
have  been  revived  by  stocking  the  stream  (1867-70)  with  154,000,000 
young  shad. 

The  chief  religious  sect  is  the  Congregational,  and  the  Episcopal  Church 
lias  more  strength  here  than  in  any  other  State  (proportionally  to  the 
population).  There  are  three  colleges,  Yale  (Cong.),  Trinity  (Epis. ),  and 
Wesleyan  (Meth.),  with  4 schools  of  theology.  The  educational  interests 
of  the  State  are  well  and  efficiently  carried  on,  under  the  support  of  the 
great  funds  derived  from  the  sale  of  the  Western  Reserve  lands.  The 
charitable  and  correctional  institutions  of  the  State  are  remarkable  for 
their  influence  and  efficiency.  The  ingenuity,  enterprise,  and  individuality 
of  the  men  of  Conn,  have  given  them  an  advanced  place  in  the  mercantile 
and  political  activities  of  the  Republic;  and  “probably  no  country  of 
similar  extent  has  sent  abroad  so  vast  a horde  of  emigrants  in  proportion 
to  its  population.” 

The  coast  and  rivers  of  Conn,  were  first  explored  by  Adrian  Block 
and  other  Dutch  mariners  (1614-33);  the  district  was  in  the  English 
Plymouth  Patent  of  1620,  and  was  chartered  in  1631.  About  that  time 
the  river  Indians  were  subjugated  by  the  Pequots,  and  Seguin,  their  chief, 
sent  to  New  York,  Plymouth,  and  Boston  for  help.  In  1633  a small 
Dutch  colony  landed  at  Hartford ; and  in  the  same  year  a Plymouth  vessel 
passed  up  to  Windsor,  where  a settlement  was  planted.  These  were 
merely  trading-posts,  but  Wethersfield  was  occupied  in  1634,  and  in  1636 
three  nomadic  churches  were  led  by  their  pastors  through  the  wilderness 
from  Boston  to  the  Conn.  River,  where  they  settled  at  Hartford,  Windsor, 
and  Wethersfield.  Saybrook  was  founded  and  fortified  in  1635,  and  in 
1637  the  first  legislature  declared  war  against  the  Pequot  Indians,  who 
were  defeated  and  speedily  crushed  by  the  colonial  train-bands,  aided  by 
the  friendly  tribes.  In  April,  1638,  New  Haven  was  settled,  and  soon 
after  the  other  coast-towns  were  founded.  In  1639  a remarkable  consti- 
tution (which  acknowledged  no  higher  human  power  than  the  people  of 
Conn.)  was  adopted,  and  in  1662  a royal  charter  was  obtained.  After  the 
union  of  the  independent  colonies  of  Conn.  (Hartford)  and  New  Haven,  in 
1665,  the  two  towns  were  made  semi-capitals  of  the  province  (and  State), 
and  so  remained  until  1873,  when  Hartford  was  made  the  sole  capital. 
The  State  stood  honorably  among  the  foremost  during  the  Revolution, 
although  the  towns  along  the  coast  were  pillaged  and  destroyed  by  raids 
from  the  Hessian  and  Tory  garrison  at  New  York. 


XVI 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


Rhode  Island 

is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Atlantic,  on  the  W.  by  Conn.,  and  on  the  N. 
and  E.  by  Mass.  It  is  the  smallest  State  in  the  Union,  and  has  an  area 
of  1,046  square  M.,  with  217,353  inhabitants,  and  a valuation  of  $ 296,965,- 
646.  There  are  5 counties,  with  32  towns,  and  2 cities.  The  soil  is  un- 
productive, and  but  little  farming  is  done  save  on  the  fertile  plains  of  the 
Island  of  Aquidneck.  The  State  is  nearly  cut  in  two  by  Narragansett 
Bay,  which  runs  inland  for  30  M.  (with  a width  of  3 - 12  M.),  and  contains 
several  islands,  the  chief  of  which  is  Aquidneck  (or  Rhode  Island)  on 
whose  S.  end  is  the  famous  summer-resort,  Newport.  11  M.  S.  E.  of 
Point  Judith  is  Block  Island,  which  pertains  to  this  State.  The  climate 
is  mild  and  equable,  from  its  vicinity  to  the  sea  and  exposure  to  the  S. ; 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  State  is  a region  of  low  hills  or  sea-shore  plains. 
The  principal  mechanical  industries  are  at  Providence,  Pawtucket,  Woon- 
socket, and  Westerly  ; and  as  far  back  as  1860  the  State  reported  1,200 
manufacturing  establishments,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $ 24,380,000, 
using  annually  $ 24,410,000  worth  of  raw  material,  and  producing  over 
$ 50,000,000  worth  of  goods.  The  33  savings-banks  of  the  State  hold  in 
deposit  $36,289,703.  The  charitable  and  correctional  institutions  are 
mostly  about  Providence,  where  is  also  the  seat  of  Brown  University,  a 
flourishing  school  under  the  care  of  the  Baptist  Church,  which  is  the 
prevailing  sect  in  the  State. 

Rhode  Island  was  probably  colonized  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  10th  and 
lltli  centuries,  but  was  afterwards  abandoned  for  centuries,  until  the 
coming  of  Verrazzani  in  1524.  He  remained  at  Aquidneck  (which  was  then 
thickly  populated  by  Indians)  for  two  weeks.  In  1636  Roger  Williams, 
having  been  banished  from  Mass.,  came  down  the  Seekonk  River  with  5 
companions,  and  founded  a settlement  which  he  named  Providence,  in 
acknowledgment  of  “ God’s  merciful  providence  to  him  in  his  distress.” 
In  1638  Wm.  Coddington  and  another  party  of  exiles  founded  Newport  ; 
in  1642  a third  banished  company  settled  at  Warwick;  and  in  1643  and 
1663  these  colonies  united  under  a royal  charter.  The  powerful  Narra- 
gansett Indians  dwelt  in  Rhode  Island,  and  when  King  Philip’s  War 
broke  out  they  ravaged  all  the  outlying  settlements  and  killed  many  of 
the  colonists.  The  New  England  colonies,  ignoring  the  existence  of  heret- 
ical Rhode  Island,  and  rejecting  its' advice,  marched  an  army  across  to 
the  Narragansett  country,  and,  after  a terrific  assault,  stormed  the  Indian 
stronghold  and  crushed  the  tribe.  The  little  province  gave  freely  of  her 
men  and  money  in  the  French  wars,  and  sent  some  of  the  best  troops  to 
the  American  siege  of  Boston.  In  Dec.,  1776,  Newport  was  taken  by  the 
British,  who  held  it  for  3 years,  but  were  prevented  by  the  New  England 
militia  from  passing  farther  into  the  country.  In  1861  the  men  of  Rhode 
Island  were  among  the  first  to  reach  the  imperilled  national  capital. 


INTRODUCTION, 


I.  Language. 

The  people  of  New  England  claim  that  they  speak  the  English  lan- 
guage more  correctly  than  it  is  spoken  elsewhere  in  the  world.  Be  this 
as  it  may,  it  is  certain  that  this  one  language  is  universally  used  through- 
out the  six  States,  and  the  traveller  is  delivered  from  the  trouble  caused 
in  Great  Britain  by  its  four  languages  and  numerous  dialects,  or  in  France 
by  its  three  languages  and  provincial  patois.  The  European  tongues  are 
taught  in  the  high-schools  all  over  the  country,  but  the  instruction  is 
purely  theoretical,  and  the  number  who  can  talk  French,  German,  or  Ital- 
ian is  very  small.  Tourists,  who  wish  to  travel  among  the  remoter  dis- 
tricts of  New  England,  should  be  well  acquainted  with  the  language, 
which  is  “the  English  of  Elizabeth,”  with  a few  local  idioms. 

II.  Money  and  Travelling  Expenses. 

Since  the  war  for  the  Union  (1861  - 65)  gold  and  silver  coin  has  disap- 
peared from  circulation,  and  been  replaced  by  U.  S.  Treasury  notes  and 
National  Bank  bills  for  values  upwards  of  one  dollar,  and  by  fractional 
currency  issued  by  the  Treasury,  of  the  values  of  10,  15,  25,  and  50  cts. 
Nickel  and  mixed  coins  of  1,  2,  3,  and  5 cts.  value,  abound.  This  paper 
currency  is  at  a discount  for  gold  of  from  10  to  15  per  ct.  The  cur- 
rency of  Canada  is  either  coin  or  paper  at  a coin  value. 

It  is  more  expensive  to  travel  in  New  England  than  in  any  part  of 
Western  Europe.  The  usual  charge  per  day  at  the  best  hotels  is  $ 4 to 
$ 4. 50,  with  considerable  reductions  when  a prolonged  stay  is  made  at  one 
place.  Tourists  who  travel  slowly  through  the  country  and  stop  at  the 
less  pretentious  hotels  (which  are  usually  comfortable,  and  always  safe) 
may  easily  limit  their  expenses  to  $ 25  or  $ 30  per  week.  Those  who  fre- 
quent hotels  of  the  highest  class,  and  indulge  much  in  carriage-riding, 
will  find  $ 45  to  $ 50  per  week  none  too  much.  At  most  of  the  sea-beaches 
board  can  be  secured  at  $ 10  or  $15  per  week  ; while  in  the  quieter  and 
less  fashionable  villages  about  the  mountains,  substantial  fare  may  be 
found  in  broad  old  farm-houses,  for  $6  to  $10  per  week. 

III.  Railways  and  Steamboats. 

Railway  travelling  in  America  is  mucli  more  comfortable,  yet  more  ex- 
pensive and  dangerous,  than  in  the  Old  World.  There  is  but  one  class  of 


2 


INTRODUCTION. 


tickets,  the  average  fares  being  about  three  cts.  a mile.  On  each  train  is 
a smoking-car,  easily  accessible  from  the  other  cars,  and  fitted  with  tables 
for  card-playing.  It  is  prudent  to  decline  playing  with  strangers,  as 
gamblers  sometimes  practice  their  arts  here,  in  spite  of  the  watchfulness 
of  the  officers  of  the  train.  To  nearly  every  through  train  on  the  grand 
routes  is  attached  one  or  more  Pullman  cars,  which  are  richly  carpeted 
and  curtained,  and  profusely  furnished  with  sofas,  easy-chairs,  tables, 
mirrors,  and  fronted  with  broad  plate  glass  windows.  These  cars  being 
well  balanced  and  running  on  twelve  wheels,  glide  over  the  rails  with 
great  ease.  By  night  they  are  ingeniously  changed  into  sleeping-rooms, 
with  comfortable  beds.  The  extra  fares  on  the  palace  cars  are  collected 
by  men  attached  to  them ; the  price  of  a night’s  lodging  (in  which  time 
one  can  go  from  Boston  to  New  York)  is  $ 2.  The  fares  by  steamboat  are 
somewhat  lower  than  by  rail,  and  (in  case  of  a night  passage)  include  a 
sleeping-bertli  in  the  lower  saloon,  but  generally  do  not  include  meals. 
A state-room  in  the  upper  cabin  costs  extra,  but  insures  better  air  and 
greater  comfort  and  privacy.  State-rooms  (in  the  summer  season)  should 
be  secured  in  advance  at  the  company’s  office  in  New  York,  Boston,  or 
Portland.  Great  lines  of  stages  still  run  among  the  mountains  and  in  the 
remote  rural  districts.  Persons  travelling  by  this  way,  in  pleasant  weather, 
should  try  to  get  a seat  on  the  outside. 

The  Check  System.  — The  traveller,  having  bought  a ticket  for  his  des- 
tination, shows  his  heavy  baggage  (trunks,  &c.)  to  the  baggage-master, 
who  attaches  a small  numbered  brass  plate  to  each  piece  with  a leather 
thong,  and  gives  to  the  traveller  a check  for  each  piece  of  baggage,  simi- 
lar in  form  and  number  to  that  appended  to  such  piece.  The  railroad 
now  becomes  responsible  (within  certain  limits  of  weight  and  value)  for 
the  baggage,  which  is  to  be  given  up  only  on  the  presentation  of  the  du- 
plicate check  which  is  in  the  traveller’s  possession.  Trunks  may  be  thus 
despatched  from  Boston  to  Montreal,  Boston  to  Chicago,  &c.,  without 
trouble,  and  if  their  owner  is  delayed  on  the  route,  they  are  stored  safely 
at  their  destined  station  until  he  calls.  On  presentation  of  the  check  at 
the  baggage-room  of  the  station  to  which  the  baggage  has  been  sent,  it  is 
given  up  to  the  owner,  or  his  hotel  porter.  The  large  hotels  have  coaches 
at  the  railroad  stations,  on  the  arrival  of  through  trains,  and  their  porters 
will  take  the  duplicate  checks,  get  the  trunks  and  carry  them  to  the  hotel. 

IV.  Excursions  on  Foot. 

It  is  remarkable  that  pedestrianism  has  never  been  popular  in  this 
country.  The  ease  and  perfect  freedom  of  this  mode  of  travelling,  its 
highly  beneficial  physical  effects,  the  leisure  thus  afforded  in  which  to 
study  the  beautiful  scenery  in  otherwise  remote  and  inaccessible  dis- 
tricts, all  mark  this  as  one  of  the  most  profitable  and  pleasant  modes  of 


INTRODUCTION. 


o 


summer  recreation.  To  walk  two  hundred  miles  in  a fortnight  is  an  easy 
thing,  and  it  is  infinitely  more  refreshing  for  a man  of  sedentary  habits 
than  the  same*length  of  time  spent  in  lying  on  the  sands  of  some  beach, 
or  idling  in  a farm-house  among  the  hills.  “ For  a tour  of  two  or  three 
weeks,  a couple  of  flannel  shirts,  a pair  of  worsted  stockings,  slippers, 
and  the  articles  of  the  toilet,  carried  in  a pouch  slung  over  the  shoulder, 
will  generally  be  found  a sufficient  equipment,  to  which  a light  overcoat 
and  a stout  umbrella  may  be  added.  Strong  and  well-tried  boots  are 
essential  to  comfort.  Heavy  and  complicated  knapsacks  should  be 
avoided ; a light  pouch,  or  game-bag,  is  far  less  irksome,  and  its  position 
may  be  shifted  at  pleasure.”  — Baedeker.  One  or  two  books  might  be 
added  to  this  list,  and  a reserve  of  clothing  may  be  sent  on  in  a light  valise, 
at  a trifling  cost,  to  the  town  which  is  the  pedestrian’s  objective  point. 

It  would  be  well  for  inexperienced  walkers  to  begin  at  eight  to  ten 
miles  a day,  and  gradually  increase  to  sixteen  to  eighteen  miles,  or  six 
hours’  walking.  During  the  heats  of  summer  the  travelling  should  be 
done  at  early  morning  and  late  afternoon,  thus  spending  the  hottest  part 
of  the  day  in  coolness  and  rest.  The  best  time  for  a pedestrian  tour  is 
between  late  September  and  late  October,  when  the  sky  is  clear  and  the 
air  bracing,  — the  season  of  the  reaping  of  harvests,  the  ripening  of  fruits, 
and  the  splendor  of  the  reddening  forests. 

Among  the  most  interesting  districts  in  New  England  for  the  pedes- 
trian, the  following  may  be  mentioned:  The  picturesque  valleys,  lakes, 
and  mountains  of  Berkshire  County,  Mass. ; the  valley  of  the  Connecticut 
from  Springfield  to  Greenfield  ; the  ocean-surrounded  arm  of  sand,  Cape 
Cod,  with  its  quaint  and  salty  old  villages  (Thoreau’s  “ Cape  Cod”  is  the 
best  guide  there)  ; the  lake  region  of  New  Hampshire  ; the  White  and 
Franconia  Mountains  (frequently  explored  by  walking  parties  from  the 
colleges  during  the  summer  vacation) ; and  in  Maine,  the  romantic  Island 
of  Mount  Desert.  The  east  bank  of  the  Hudson  River,  from  New  York 
to  Albany,  affords  a walk  of  rare  interest,  and  the  west  shore  of  Lake 
George  presents  a short  walk  through  peerless  scenery.  But  the  most  in- 
teresting ramble  is  from  Quebec  through  the  C6te  de  Montmorenci  to 
Cape  Tormente,  there  crossing  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  passing  down  the 
south  shore  through  the  quaint  old  Norman  Catholic  villages  of  Mont- 
magny,  L’lslet,  and  Kamouraska.  This  route  can  be  traversed  only  by 
an  experienced  traveller  who  is  well  posted  in  French.  There  are  but 
very  few  hotels  in  this  ancient  and  primitive  district. 

V.  Hotels. 

The  hotels  of  the  United  States  will  certainly  bear  comparison  with 
those  of  any  other  country.  The  European  plan  has  been  adopted  in  many 
of  them  (as  Parker’s,  at  Boston;  the  St.  Julian,  at  Portland),  while  in 
many  others  it  is  used  in  combination  with  the  American  plan,  — $ 4 to 


4 


INTRODUCTION. 


$4.50  per  day  at  the  more  fashionable  houses,  $ 2.50  to  $ 4 per  day  at  the 
comfortable  hotels  of  the  smaller  cities,  and  $1.50  to  $2.50  per  day  in 
the  smaller  houses  in  the  rural  districts,  are  the  charges  which  cover  all 
ordinary  requirements.  No  costly  array  of  sundries  and  extras  is  at- 
tached to  the  bill,  and  the  practice  of  feeing  the  servants  has  never 
obtained  to  any  extent,  nor  has  it  been  found  necessary. 

VI.  Round-Trip  Excursions. 

During  the  summer  and  early  fall  the  railroads  prepare  series  of  ex- 
cursion tickets  at  greatly  reduced  rates.  Information  and  lists  of  these 
routes  may  be  obtained  from  the  central  offices  in  Boston.  The  office 
of  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  Route  (to  Saratoga,  &c.)  is  at  69  Washington  St., 
Boston  ; the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  River  Railroad  is  at  87  Wash- 
ington St. ; the  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  is  at  5 State  St. ; the 
Grand  Trunk  Railroad  is  at  134  Washington  St.;  where  is  also  the  pas- 
senger office  of  the  Eastern  Railroad  (to  Portland,  the  Eastern  Provinces, 
and  the  White  Mountains),  conducted  by  Geo.  F.  Field,  Esq.  The  Ver- 
mont Central  Railroad  (office  65  Washington  St.)  publishes  a twenty-four 
page  book  of  round  excursions  (with  their  prices)  to  every  part  of  New 
Hampshire,  Vermont,  the  Province  of  Quebec,  Eastern  New  York,  and 
also  to  Niagara  Falls,  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  and  Duluth. 

VII.  Climate  and  Dress. 

The  climate  of  New  England  is  subject  to  the  most  sudden  and  severe 
changes,  from  heat  to  cold  or  from  cold  to  heat.  The  summers  are 
usually  much  hotter  and  the  winters  much  colder  than  in  England,  and 
during  the  latter  season  great  falls  of  snow  are  frequent.  The  summer 
sun  is  often  fatal  in  its  power,  and  long  exposure  to  its  vertical  rays  should 
be  avoided.  At  the  same  time  warm  clothing  should  be  kept  at  hand, 
and  woollen,  or  at  least  heavy  cotton,  underclothing  should  be  worn,  in 
order  to  guard  against  the  sudden  changes  which  are  so  frequent. 

VIII.  Miscellaneous  Notes. 

Passports  are  of  no-use  in  the  United  States  in  time  of  peace. 

The  examination  of  luggage  at  the  Canadian  frontier  and  at  the  ocean- 
ports  is  usually  very  lenient,  and  conducted  in  a courteous  manner. 

Traffic  is  made  easy  from  the  fact  that  fixed  charges  exist  in  the  shops, 
and  the  tiresome  processes  of  chaffing  and  beating  down  are  unnecessarjr. 

There  are  no  professional  guides  in  New  England,  but  the  people  are 
prompt  and  willing  to  answer  all  civilly  put  questions.  Gentlemen  from 
abroad  will  remember  that  there  is  here,  especially  in  the  country,  no  class 
of  self-recognized  peasantry,  and  that  a haughty  question  or  order  will 
often  provoke  a reply  couched  in  all  “ the  native  rudeness  of  the  Saxon 
tongue.” 


NEW  ENGLAND  HANDBOOK. 


1.  Boston. 

Hotels.  Those  in  the  heart  of  the  city  are  most  conveniently  situated.  Tre- 
mont  House  (PI.  18),  on  Tremont  St.,  corner  of  Beacon,  and  the  * Revere  House 
(PI.  9),  on  Bowdoin  Sq.,  are  large,  commodious  hotels,  near  the  State  House,  and 
carried  on  by  the  same  company.  The  * American  House  (PI.  10),  on  Hanover  St., 
is  a large  and  elegant  brownstone  structure,  with  300  rooms.  Board  at  $ 4 to 
$ 4.50  per  day.  *The  Parker  House  (PI.  19),  a noble  marble  building  on  School 
St.,  opposite  King’s  Chapel  and  the  City  Hall,  is  kept  on  the  European  plan,  and 
is  a famous  resort  of  the  young  men  of  New  England.  Young’s  Hotel  (PI.  20), 
Court  Ave.,  is  on  the  European  plan,  and  is  much  resorted  to  by  city  merchants. 

The  following  hotels  are  less  expensive  : Adams  House  (PI.  28),  371  Washington 
St.,  $3;  Marlboro’  Hotel  (PL  20),  227  and  229  Washington  Street;  Sherman 
House ; Temple  House,  Bowdoin  Sq.  ; Milliken’s  (PI.  22),  Washington  St. 
Near  the  great  Northern  railroad  stations  are  the  Arlington  House  (European 
plan)  and  National  House.  Opposite  the  Albany  Railroad  Station  is  the  exten- 
sive United  States  Hotel  (PI.  33).  In  Brattle  St.  are  the  City  Hotel  and  the  Quincy 
House. 

At  the  South  End. — *St.  James  Hotel,  on  Franklin  Sq.,  a vast  and  elegant 
structure,  400  guests,  $ 4 a day,  $ 15  to  $ 25  a week.  * Commonwealth  Hotel,  a 
new  marble  building  on  Washington  St.,  stretching  from  Worcester  to  Spring- 
field  St.,  200  to  250  guests,  $4  a day.  Also  on  Washington  St.,  the  Erskine, 
Lancaster,  Everett,  Warwick,  and  St.  Denis  Houses ; and  on  Tremont  St.,  the 
Clarendon  and  the  St.  Cloud,  — smaller  and  less  expensive  houses. 

The  French  system  of  Hotels  Garnis  in  its  various  forms  is  very  popular  in 
Boston.  The  principal  hotels  of  this  class  (with  family  suites)  are  the  Evans 
House,  175  Tremont,  and  the  Hotel  Pelham,  corner  Tremont  and  Boylston  Streets, 
both  fronting  on  the  Common.  Opposite  this,  the  superb  Hotel  Boylston,  one  of 
the  noblest  buildings  in  the  city.  The  Hotels  Berkeley  and  Kempton,  and  the 
Hotel  Hamilton  (on  Commonwealth  Ave.),  at  the  West  End,  and  the  Hotels  Flor- 
ence, Bradford,  &c.,  at  the  South  End,  are  of  this  class.  The  Norfolk  House  (in 
Roxbury)  and  the  Maverick  House  (in  East  Boston)  are  large,  quiet,  and  inexpen- 
sive suburban  hotels. 

Restaurants.  — * Parker  House  (with  ladies’  dining-room  attached),  famous 
for  its  excellent  dinners.  (Charles  Dickens  called  Parker’s  the  best  hotel  in 
America.)  * Young’s,  near  Old  State  House,  with  an  elegant  dining-hall,  much 
patronized  for  society  and  festal  dinners.  * Charles  Copeland’s,  4 Tremont  Row,  — 
a dainty  saloon,  frescoed  and  fountained,  much  visited  by  ladies.  The  Copeland 
restaurants  at  208  Washington  St.,  and  128  Tremont  St.,  opposite  Park  St., 
are  frequented  by  ladies.  Higgins’s,  126  Court  St.,  is  famous  for  fine  oysters. 
Wilson’s  Lane,  Spring  Lane,  Brattle  St.,  and  the  vicinity,  abound  in  good  eating- 
houses.  Lager  Beer  may  be  had  at  many  German  saloons  throughout  the 
city.  Ice-creams  and  confections  at  Copeland’s,  Fera’s  (343  Washington 
St.),  Southmayd’s,  Webers,  &c. 

Billiard-Rooms.  — The  finest  hall  of  the  kind  in  New  England  is  on  Wash- 
ington St.,  near  the  Boylston  Market.  The  Revere  billiard-rooms,  near  Bow- 
doin Sq.,  are  large  and  brilliant.  Artemus  Ward’s  quaint  saying  is  well  known, 
— that  Harvard  College  is  located  in  the  billiard-room  of  the  Parker  House.  Other 
comfortable,  though  smaller  rooms  are  scattered  through  the  city. 

Baths.  — Turkish,  sulpliur-fume,  and  electro-chemical,  rear  of  the  Marlboro’ 


6 Route  1. 


BOSTON. 


Hotel,  231  Washington  St.  Turkish  baths,  1427  Washington  St.,  17  Beacon  St. 
Bath-rooms  in  the  hotels. 

Heading-Rooms  (open  evenings  also).  In  the  Public  Library  are  the  prin- 
cipal European  periodicals,  and  a large  number  of  American  papers,  &c.  — The 
Young  Men’s  Christian  Union  (300  Washington  St.)  and  the  Young  Men’s  Chris- 
tian Association  (corner  Tremont  and  Eliot  Sts.)  have  large  and  well-supplied 
reading-rooms,  free  to  all.  An  introduction  from  a member  is  necessary  for 
entrance  to  the  Athenaeum  reading-rooms.  Most  of  the  hotels  devote  a room  to 
numerous  files  of  the  newspapers  of  the  day. 

Theatres.  — The  Boston  Theatre  (PI.  27),  on  Washington  St.,  near  West,  is 
the  largest  in  New  England.  The  principal  'tragedians  of  (or  visiting)  America 
have  played  here,  and  the  building  is  often  engaged  for  Italian  and  German 
Operas.  The  elegant  Globe  Theatre,  “ the  Parlor  of  Comedy,”  was  destroyed  in  the 
great  Memorial  Bay  fire  (May  30,  1873),  but  it  is  to  be  rebuilt  immediately.  The 
Museum  Theatre  (PI.  15),  on  Tremont,  near  School  St.,  is  conducted  by  a stock 
company,  and  is  called  the  “ Orthodox”  or  “ Ministers’  Theatre,”  since  no  spec- 
tacular or  questionable  plays  are  allowed  there.  William  Warren,  the  great 
comedian,  is  a member  of  the  Museum  company,  with  which  he  has  played  for  26 
years,  winning  a wide  and  enviable  reputation.  On  Howard  St.,  near  Court,  is 
the  Howard  Athenaeum  (PI.  11),  devoted  to  varieties,  and  entertainments  by  negro 
minstrels. 

Classic  music  in  Music  Hall  by  the  Handel  and  Haydn  Society,  the  Thomas 
Orchestra,  and  the  Apollo  Club.  Also  semi-weekly  organ  concerts. 

Consulates.  — Austrian,  80  State  St.  ; Belgian,  6 Central  Whf.  ; British,  127 
State  St.  ; French,  Italian,  17  Broad  ; German,  80  State  ; Russian,  49  India  Whf.  ; 
Swedish,  6 Central  Whf. 

Horse- cars  traverse  the  city  in  all  directions.  Tremont  St.,  between  Temple 
Place,,  and  the  Tremont  House,  Lowdoin  Sq.,  and  Scollay  Sq.  (corner  Court 
and  Tremont  Sts.),  are  the  principal  centres  of  horse-car  traffic.  Cars  leave  the 
Tremont  House  every  few  minutes  for  the  Northern  Depots,  Chelsea  Ferry,  Mt. 
Pleasant  (in  Dorchester),  Warren  St.  (Roxbury),  Grove  Hall,  Dorchester,  Norfolk 
House  (Roxbury),  Egleston  Square,  Forest  Hills,  Lenox  St.,  Jamaica  Plain,  Brook- 
line, Beacon  St.,  and  E.  Boston.  Also  from  Temple  Place  to  Dudley  St.  (Rox- 
bury), and  Grove  Hall,  via  Shawmut  Ave.  From  Scollay  Sq.  cars  run  to  So. 
Boston,  City  Point,  Bay  View,  Charlestown  Neck,  Bunker  Hill,  Malden,  Winter 
Hill,  Medford,  Union  Square  (Somerville),  Chelsea,  Revere  Beach  (in  summer ), 
Lynn,  Swampscott.  From  foot  of  Summer  St.,  cars  to  Dorchester  and  Milton. 
From  Bowdoin  Sq.,  cars  on  20  routes  to  the  western  suburbs,  Cambridgeport, 
Riverside  Press,  Brighton,  Newton  Corner,  Harvard  Sq.  (University),  Mount 
Auburn,  Watertown,  Arlington,  Somerville  (via  Craigie’s  Bridge). 

Omnibuses.  — From  Salem  St.,  Charlestown,  via  Warren  Bridge  and  Wash- 
ington St.,  to  Concord  St. 

Carriages.  — 50  cts.  each  passenger  for  a course  within  the  city  proper  ; 
from  south  of  Dover  St.  to  the  North  End,  $ 1.  A tariff  of  fares  is  hung  in 
each-carriage. 

Steamers  leave  Boston  as  follows  (in  the  season  of  navigation)  : — For 
Augusta  and  Bath,  Me.,  semi-weekly,  from  Union  Whf.  ; for  Baltimore,  from 
India  Whf.  ; for  Bangor,  semi-weekly,  from  Foster’s  Whf.  ; for  Calais,  Me.,  Sat- 
urdays, from  Commercial  Whf.  ; for  Dover,  from  Battery  Whf.  ; for  Eastport 
and  St.  John,  N.  B.,  tri-weekly,  from  Commercial  Whf.  ; for  Gloucester,  daily, 
from  234  Broad  St.  ; for  Halifax,  N.  S.,  Pictou,  and  Prince  Edward’s  Island, 
every  Saturday,  from  T Whf.  ; for  Hull,  Hingham,  and  Nantasket,  semi-daily  in 
summer,  from  Liverpool  Whf.  and  234  Broad  St.  ; for  Long  Island,  Quincy 
Point,  and  North  Weymouth,  daily  in  summer,  from  Rowe’s  Whf.  ; for  Nahant, 
daily  in  summer,  from  India  Whf.  ; for  Philadelphia,  semi-weekly,  from  Long 
Whf.  ; for  Portland,  daily,  from  India  Whf.  ; for  Provincetown,  from  Central 
Whf.  ; for  Savannah,  every  ten  days,  from  T Whf.  ; for  Liverpool  (Cunard 
Line),  every  Tuesday,  from  Cunard  Whf.,  East  Boston  (cabin,  §80  and  §100  in 
gold  ; steerage,  § 30  in  currency).  Sailing  packet-lines  connect  Boston  with 
nearly  every  port  of  New  England. 

C bur  dies.  — There  are  in  the  city  18  Baptist  churches,  22  Congregationalist, 
27  Unitarian,  15  Episcopal,  22  Methodist,  7 Presbyterian,  17  Roman  Catholic,  6 
Universalist,  and  14  other  religious  societies.  There  is  a German  Lutheran  church, 
corner  of  Shawmut  Ave.  and  Waltham  St. ; a German  Reformed  church,  8 Shaw- 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.  7 


1 


mut  St.  ; a German  Methodist  church,  541  Shawmut  Ave.,  and  a Synagogue 
of  German  Jews,  on  Pleasant  St. 

Newspapers.  — 8 daily  papers  are  published  in  the  city  ; also  3 semi-week- 
„ lies  ; 72  weeklies  ; 8 bi-montlilies  ; 70  monthlies  (mostly  magazines)  ; and  14 
quarterlies. 

Boston  (Shawmut,  or  “Sweet  Waters  ”),  the  Puritan  City,  was  first  settled 
by  a recluse  Anglican  clergyman,  Wiliam  Blackstone,  about  the  year  1623.  The 
adventurous  colonists  who  landed  at  Salem,  in  1630,  soon  moved  a large  party  to 
Charlestown  ; but,  finding  no  water  there,  they  crossed  to  the  peninsula  of  Shawmut, 
under  the  leadership  of  Isaac  Johnson,  landing  on  the  present  site  of  Boston, 
September  7 (O.  S.),  1630.  The  name  Boston  was  given  to  the  place  by  order  of 
the  Court,  in  honor  of  that  English  city  from  which  came  Johnson  and  John 
Cotton,  two  of  the  early  church  fathers  of  the  new  settlement.* 

In  1634  Blackstone,  declaring  “I  came  from  England  because  I did  not  like 
the  lord  bishops,  but  I can’t  join  with  you,  because  I would  not  be  under  the 
lords  brethren,”  sold  the  peninsula  to  the  colonists  for  £30,  and  went  into  the 
wilderness.  Governor  Winthrop  had  previously  constituted  Boston  the  capital 
of  the  colony,  and  a strong  tide  of  immigration  set  in.  In  1631  the  barque 
“ Blessing  of  the  Bay  ” was  launched  ; in  1632  the  first  church  was  built ; and  in 
1636-38  Harvard  College  was  founded.  In  1663  Josselyn  writes  : “ The  buildings 
are  handsome,  joining  one  to  the  other  as  in  London,  with  many  large  streets, 
most  of  them  paved  with  pebble-stones.  In  the  high  street  towards  the  Com- 
mon there  are  faire  houses,  some  of  stone,”  &c.,  — a great  change  since  1630,  when 
one  declared  it  to  be  “ a hideous  wilderness,  possessed  by  barbarous  Indians, 
very  cold,  sickly,  rocky,  barren,  unfit  for  culture,  and  like  to  keep  the  people 
miserable.”  In  the  Pequot  War  of  1637,  and  King  Philip’s  War  (1675  - 76),  Boston 
bore  a large  share,  and  hundreds  of  prisoners  were  guarded  there.  “ Philadelphia 
was  a forest,  and  New  York  was  an  insignificant  village,  long  after  its  rival  (Bos- 
ton) had  become  a great  commercial  town.” 

The  town  gave  men  and  money  freely  in  defence  of  the  frontiers  against  the 
Franco-Indian  attacks,  and  fleet  after  fleet  left  its  harbor  to  do  battle  on  the 
eastern  coasts.  In  1704  the  first  American  newspaper  (the  “ Boston  News-Let- 
ter ”)  appeared  here  ; in  1710  a massive  wall  of  brick  and  stone  foundation,  with 
cannon  on  its  parapets,  and  with  two  strong  gates,  was  built  across  the  isthmus, 
or  neck,  on  the  south,  near  the  present  Dover  St.  This,  with  the  walls  on 
on  the  water-front,  2,200  feet  long,  15  feet  high,  and  20  feet  thick,  and  the  forts  on 
Castle  Island  and  Fort  Hill,  effectually  guarded  against  attacks  by  the  Dutch  or 
French.  In  1711,  5,000  of  Marlborough’s  veterans,  and  a large  Provincial  force, 
encamped  at  East  Boston,  and  thence  sailed  on  Admiral  Walker’s  disastrous  ex- 
pedition against  Quebec.  In  1739  sailed  the  fleet  destined  to  attack  Cuba,  and 
of  500  men  sent  from  the  Massachusetts  colony  but  50  ever  returned.  Meantime 
France  had  erected  a powerful  fortress  at  Louisbourg,  far  in  the  north,  and  4,100 
soldier?,  in  13  vessels,  mounting  204  guns,  sailed  from  Boston  in  1745.  They 
were  joined  at  Canseau  by  10  royal  frigates  ; the  “Massachusetts,”  24,  captured 
the  French  frigate  “ Vigilant,”  64  ; and  after  firing  9,600  cannon-shot  into  Louis- 
bourg it  surrendered,  with  2,000  men  and  76  heavy  guns.  Restored  to  France  by 
London  treaty-makers,  the  work  had  to  be  done  over  again,  and  in  1758  Amherst 
and  Boscawen  gathered  a royal  and  provincial  army  and  fleet  at  Boston,  attacked 
Louisbourg  with  7,000  men  and  57  sail,  lost  400  men,  and  took  the  fortress,  with 
5,600  soldiers,  39  heavy  guns,  6 line-of-battle  ships,  and  several  frigates.  In 
1745  the  Duke  d’Anville,  with  16  ships  of  the  line,  95  frigates,  and  a large  army, 
was  sent  to  retake  Louisbourg  and  demolish  Boston.  A frightful  storm  shattered 
this  armada,  but  he  landed  a strong  force  at  Halifax,  which  annihilated  a Massachu- 
setts army  in  a battle  at  Grand  Pre,  and  filled  Boston  with  mourners.  The  feel- 
ing of  discontent  which  had  been  growing  since  the  forfeiture  of  the  colonial 
charters  in  16S8,  and  which  had  been  increased  by  arbitrary  acts  of  royal  gov- 
ernors and  of  the  London  cabinet,  arose  rapidly  in  1762-65,  on  the  passage 
of  the  “Writs  of  Assistance”  and  the  Stamp  Act.  In  1768  two  royal  regi- 

* Boston,  in  Lincolnshire,  Eng.,  was  founded  in  650  by  St.  Botolph  (boat-help),  a pious 
Saxon  and  the  patron-saint  of  English  sailors.  It  is  on  the  Witham  River,  20  miles  south- 
east of  Lincoln,  and  has  15,000  inhabitants.  The  Church  of  St.  Botolph  is  its  pride.  It  was 
founded  in  1307,  is  245  by  98  feet,  and  can  accommodate  5,000  people.  It  has  noble  stained 
windows,  and  a famous  tower  280  feet  high  (modelled  after  one  at  Antwerp),  which  is  visible 
for  leagues  at  sea. 


8 Pcoute  1. 


BOSTON. 


ments  from  Halifax  moved  into  the  town,  and  riots  and  outrages  "began  to  be 
frequent.  Reinforcements  were  sent  again  and  again  to  the  .garrison,  and  Lieu- 
tenant-General Gage,  the  commander  of  the  British  forces,  was  appointed  (1774) 
Governor  of  Massachusetts.  Then  ensued  the  gathering  of  the  patriot  armies  at 
Cambridge,  the  blockade  of  the  city,  and  consequent  distress  among  its  people, 
and  the  bombardments  from  the  American  lines.  When  Lord  Howe  was  forced 
to  evacuate  the  city,  March  17,  1776,  3,000  loyalists  chose  to  go  with  him,  and  on 
the  same  day  the  Americans  took  possession  of  battered  and  hungry  and  depopu- 
lated Boston. 

Since  the  close  of  the  Revolution  the  city  has  been  engaged  in  great  internal 
improvements,  the  construction  of  a network  of  railroads  to  all  parts  of  New 
England,  and  the  preservation  and  extension  of  its  commerce.  Great  manufac- 
turing interests  centred  here,  and  the  city  boundaries  were  again  and  again  en- 
larged. In  June,  1872,  the  Universal  Peace  Jubilee  was  held  here  (as  projected 
and  managed  by  P.  S.  Gilmore)  in  an  immense  wooden  building  on  the  Back  Bay. 
This  edifice  (called  the  Coliseum)  was  550  feet  loiig,  350  feet  wide,  and  115  feet 
high,  thus  having  an  area  greater  than  that  of  the  Milan  and  Cologne  Cathe- 
drals united,  or  of  St.  Paul’s  (London)  and  St.  Sophia  (Constantinople)  united. 
The  Roman  Coliseum  held  87,000  spectators,  but  the  Boston  Coliseum  could 
accommodate  only  40,000  to  50,000.  Great  galleries  ran  around  the  hall,  parlors , &c. , 
were  plentiful,  and  a forest  of  flags  and  national  symbols  was  draped  within  and 
floated  outside.  Strong  forces  of  police,  firemen,  and  artillerist's  were  constantly 
on  duty  at  the  Coliseum.  Some  of  the  music  was  emphasized  by  the  booming  of 
cannon  near  the  building  and  the  ringing  of  the  city  bells,  while  a large  company 
of  uniformed  firemen  accompanied  the  oft-repeated  Anvil  Chorus  with  ringing 
blows  on  anvils.  Strauss,  the  Austrian  composer  of  waltzes,  and  violinist,  Mes- 
dames  Peschka-Leutner,  Rudersdorff,  and  Goddard  were  there  ; also  the  bands  of 
the  English  Grenadier  Guards,  the  French  Garde  RApublicaine,  and  the  Prussian 
Kaiser  Franz  Grenadier  Regiment.  These  were  aided  by  a grand  orchestra  of  2,000 
musicians,  and  a chorus  of  165  well-drilled  societies,  comprising  20,000  voices. 
The  Jubilee  lasted  for  3 weeks  (without  accident  or  mischance),  and  was  varied 
by  a great  Presidential  Ball.  Early  in  the  next  year  the  Coliseum  was  taken 
down. 

The  rapid  extension  of  commerce,  and  the  concentration  of  great  manufacturing 
agencies  in  the  city,  produced  a corresponding  flow  of  wealth  and  growth  of 
stately  architecture.  The  streets  between  the  Common  and  the  Harbor,  between 
Summer  and  State  Sts.,  were  lined  with  lofty  and  ornate  commercial  houses, 
unsurpassed  elsewhere  in  the  world,  and  crowded  with  valuable  goods.  There 
were  tiers  of  streets  lined  with  massive  granite  structures,  which  seemed  as  un- 
inflammable as  ravines  in  the  solid  rock.  About  7 o’clock  on  the  warm,  moonlit 
evening  of  November  9,  1872,  a fire  broke  out  in  a building  on  the  corner  of  Kings- 
ton and  Summer  Sts.  It  speedily  crept  up  from  the  lower  story  and  turned 
the  Mansard  roof  into  a sea  of  flame.  The  fire  started  thence  in  three  direc- 
tions, and,  fanned  by  the  gale  which  it  had  formed,  it  swept  up  and  down 
Summer  St.,  and  through  the  lateral  avenues  into  Franklin  St.  and  Winthrop 
Sq.  The  firemen,  although  heroically  active,  were  driven  before  it,  until  early 
Sunday  morning,  when  several  buildings  were  blown  up.  About  this  time 
the  fire  was  checked  in  its  southward  progress,  and  the  whole  Fire  Depart- 
ment (reinforced  from  many  towns  within  100  miles)  faced  the  destroyer  on 
the  north.  From  2 to  3 o’clock  Sunday  morning  the  firemen  fought  the  flames  on 
Washington  St.,  and  after  incredible  efforts  kept  it  on  the  lower  side  of  the 
street,  and  saved  the  Old  South  Church,  which  was  scorched  and  strewn  with 
sparks.  During  the  day  the  force  at  hand  was  directed  on  two  points,  the  new 
U.  S.  Post  Office  on  Devonshire  Street,  and  the  Merchant’s  Exchange,  and  in 
the  narrow  streets  between  Broad  and  Kilby  Sts.  Repulsed  from  the  first  two 
points,  and  after  a time  checked  in  its  advance  toward  Kilby  St.,  the  fire  sank 
rapidly  under  the  cataracts  of  water  which  were  being  poured  upon  it  from  the 
steam-engines  massed  along  State  St.  By  mid-afternoon  the  danger  was  over, 
and  many  of  the  out-of-town  engines  were  sent  home.  In  less  than  24  hours  the 
richest  quarter  of  Boston,  covering  about  50  acres,  had  been  swept  away,  and 
nothing  remained  of  those  massive  piles  of  granite  and  brick  save  a few  ragged 
and  tottering  fragments  of  wall.  The  loss  was  not  far  from  $70,000,000.  To 
keep  out  the  swarms  of  thieves,  and  to  prevent  the  citizens  and  the  scores  of 
thousands  of  visitors  from  imperilling  themselves,  three  regiments  of  State  troops 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.  9 


were  called  out,  who  formed  a line  of  guards  around  the  burnt  district,  which  was 
thus  picketed  and  held  under  martial  law  for  many  days.  Less  than  thirty  lives 
were  lost  during  the  fire.  The  rapid  and  resistless  spread  of  the  conflagration 
(which  would  have  been  impossible  in  a European  city)  has  been  attributed  to 
the  narrow  streets,  the  thin  partition  walls,  and  the  universal  use  of  lofty  Man- 
sard roofs  built  of  light  timber  and  planking,  and  too  high  from  the  street  to  be 
reached  by  the  water  from  the  engines.  “ The  best  treasure  of  Boston  cannot  be 
burnt  up.  Her  grand  capital  of  culture  and  character,  science  and  skill,  humanity 
and  religion,  is  beyond  the  reach  of  flame.  Sweep  away  every  store  and  house, 
every  school  and  church,  and  let  the  ]>eople,  with  their  history  and  habits,  re- 
main, and  they  still  have  one  of  the  richest  and  strongest  cities  on  earth.” 

Boston,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Massachusetts,  and  the  metropolis 
of  New  England,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  and  famous  of  the  American 
cities.  Its  colonial  and  Revolutionary  epochs  were  filled  with  incidents 
of  rare  heroism  and  surpassing  interest,  while  the  later  and  more  peace- 
ful years  have  been  rich  in  the  triumphs  of  commerce  and  industry.  Al- 
though it  has  lost  its  former  commercial  supremacy,  it  still  ranks  as  the 
second  American  city  in  this  regard,  and  is  carrying  through  vast  railroad 
projects  in  order  to  keep  its  position.  It  is  built  on  a deep  inlet  at  the 
head  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  and  favorably  situated  either  for  foreign  traf- 
fic or  for  its  vast  trade  with  the  manufacturing  towns  of  New  England. 
So  the  city  has  grown  rapidly,  its  population  of  30,049  in  the  year  1800, 
and  70,713  in  1830,  having  increased  by  1870  to  250,526,  with  a valuation 
of  $ 584,000,000.  The  cramped  limits  of  the  peninsula  being  too  narrow, 
large  tracts  of  land  have  been  added  by  filling  up  the  tide-water  flats  and 
coves,  and  by  the  annexation  and  settlement  of  neighboring  towns.  In 
spite  of  its  frequent  fires  and  rapid  changes,  Boston  has  more  of  a Euro- 
pean appearance  than  any  other  American  city,  and  it  has  also  a calm, 
cold,  and  reserved  aristocracy  of  old  families.  The  intellectual  and  musi- 
cal culture  of  its  citizens  is  renowned,  and  the  most  radical  and  advanced 
schools  of  politics,  philosophy,  and  religion  find  their  home  here.  As  for 
the  numerous  charitable  houses  of  the  city,  they  have  generally  won  the 
highest  praise,  even  the  censorious  Dickens  saying  : “ I sincerely  believe 
that  the  public  institutions  and  charities  of  this  capital  of  Massachusetts 
are  as  nearly  perfect  as  the  most  considerate  wisdom,  humanity,  and 
benevolence  can  make  them.”  The  district  lying  between  State,  Court, 
and  Cambridge  Sts.,  and  the  waters  of  Charles  River  and  the  Harbor, 
was,  in  the  olden  time,  the  most  important  part  of  the  city,  although  it  is 
now  given  to  the  purposes  of  trade  and  the  dwellings  of  the  lower  classes. 
Commercial  St. , forming  3 sides  of  a square,  bounds  a great  part  of  it, 
and  opens  on  a continuous  line  of  wharves.  The  great  Northern  depots 
of  the  Lowell  Railroad  (for  Vermont  and  Montreal),  the  Eastern  Rail- 
road, the  Fitchburg,  and  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad,  are  situated  near 
each  other,  on  and  near  Causeway  St. 

Copp’s  Hill,  in  the  northeast  part,  was  the  site  of  a British  fort,  which 
took  an  active  part  in  the  Bunker  Hill  battle,  in  1775,  and  burned 


10  Route  1. 


BOSTON. 


Charlestown  with  a shower  of  hot  shot.  The  ancient  burying-ground 
first  used  in  1660  occupies  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  has  been  sacredly 
preserved.  Here  are  buried  three  fathers  of  the  Puritan  Church,  Drs. 
Increase,  Cotton,  and  Samuel  Mather.  The  cemetery  is  open  to  the 
public. 

Near  Copp’s  Hill,  on  Salem  St.,  is  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  the 
oldest  church  edifice  in  the  city  (consecrated  in  1723).  A fine  chime  of 
bells  is  in  the  tower,  and  its  music  is  almost  coeval  with  the  church. 
Near  the  West  Boston  Bridge  is  the  large  granite  building  of  the  Massa- 
chusetts General  Hospital  (PI.  4),  a noble  charitable  institution  with 
rich  endowments.  Near  it  is  the  Medical  College  of  Harvard  University. 
'"Faneuil  Hall  (PI.  16),  “The  Cradle  of  American  Liberty,”  was  built 
and  given  to  the  city  in  1742,  by  Peter  Faneuil,  a Huguenot  merchant. 
It  was  burnt  in  1761,  and  rebuilt  in  time  to  serve  the  British  14th 
Regiment  for  barracks  (1768).  During  the  later  popular  excitements 
many  stirring  orations  were  made  here,  until,  during  the  siege  of  1775  - 76, 
the  royal  officers  turned  it  into  a theatre.  The  Hall,  76  feet  square 
and  28  feet  high,  has  no  seats,  and  will  accommodate  a great  audience. 
In  time  of  great  military  or  political  emergencies,  the  men  of  Boston 
flock  to  Faneuil  Hall  by  thousands.  On  the  walls  are  some  good  por- 
traits : Peter  Faneuil,  Sargent;  George  Washington,  Stuart;  Commo- 
dore Preble,  General  Warren,  John  Q.  Adams,  * Webster  replying  to 
Hayne,  Healy ; Edward  Everett,  Abraham  Lincoln,  John  A.  Andrew, 
* Samuel  Adams,  Copley  (his  masterpiece);  and  others.  Fronting  Fan- 
euil Hall  is  the  (586  ft.)  long  granite  building  of  the  Quincy  Market, 
where  all  kinds  of  meat,  fish,  fruit,  and  vegetables  are  exposed  in 
tempting  profusion.  Not  far  from  the  Market  is  the  *TJ.  S.  Custom 
House  (PI.  24),  perhaps  the  most  massive  and  imposing  building  in  Bos- 
ton. It  was  built  1837  - 49,  at  a cost  of  nearly  $ 1,100,000,  and  its  walls, 
roof,  and  dome  are  of  granite.  The  building  is  in  the  form  of  a Greek 
cross,  and  is  surrounded  by  32  immense  columns,  5 ft.  thick  and  32 
ft.  high.  The  great  granite  warehouses  (State  St.  Block,  &c.)  in  the 
vicinity  are  worthy  of  attention  ; also  the  ever-busy  wharves  near  State 
St.  The  old  Post  Office  (Pl.  21),  or  Merchants’  Exchange,  with  6 long 
granite  columns  in  front,  is  famous  as  the  point  where  the  flames  advancing 
on  State  Street  were  checked,  in  the  Great  Fire  of  1872,  by  a platoon  of 
husky,  dingy,  and  quivering  steam  fire-engines  drawn  up  before  it.  The 
Wall  Street  of  Boston,  the  haunt  of  its  bankers  and  brokers,  is  the  part 
of  State  St.  between  the  old  Post  Office  and  the  Old  State  House. 
This  ancient  edifice  was  built  in  1748,  and  long  used  by  the  legislature  of 
the  colony.  On  March  5, 1770,  a collision  occurred  between  the  towns- 
people and  the  British  main-guard  stationed  here,  and  a volley  was  fired, 
killing  four  and  wounding  many  of  the  crowd.  This  affair  was  called  the 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.  11 


“Boston  Massacre/’  and  the  soldiers  were  tried  before  the  Colonial  Court 
on  the  charge  of  murder,  and  exonerated.  Opposite  the  Old  State  House 
is  a magnificent  marble  building  in  Venetian  Gothic  architecture,  with  a 
149  ft.  front  on  Court  St.  and  55  ft.  on  Washington  St.,  which  cost  about 
$750,000,  and  is  used  for  bank,  railroad,  and  insurance  offices.  Just 
above,  on  Court  Sep,  is  the  heavy  front  of  the  Suffolk  County  Court 
House,  back  of  which,  and  fronting  on  School  St.,  is  the  * City  Hall,  built 
in  1862-65.  $160,000  were  appropriated  to  build  it,  and  it  cost  really 

more  than  $500,000.  It  is  of  white  Concord  granite,  in  the  Italian 
Renaissance  architecture,  with  138  ft.  front  and  95  ft.  height,  the  Louvre 
dome  which  is  the  headquarters  of  the  fire-alarm  being  109  ft.  high.  The 
Council  Chambers  are  very  fine,  as  is  the  whole  interior  arrangement. 
In  front  of  the  City  Hall  is  a bronze  statue  of  Benjamin  Franklin , 8 
ft.  high,  on  a base  of  verde  antique  and  granite,  with  historic  bronze  me- 
dallions on  the  sides.  The  artist  was  R.  S.  Greenough,  and  the  means 
of  its  erection  ($  20,000)  were  raised  by  the  people. 

Benjamin  Franklin  was  born  in  Boston  in  1706.  He  was  apprenticed  to  his 
brother,  a printer,  but  ran  away  to  Philadelphia  in  1723.  There  he  rose  steadily 
until  in  1764  he  was  sent  to  England  as  colonial  agent,  when,  in  1766,  he  spoke 
before  the  House  of  Commons,  and  the  Stamp  Act  was  repealed.  Elected  to 
Congress,  he  was  on  the  committee  on  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and 
signed  that  document.  From  1776  to  1785  he  was  Minister  to  France,  with  which 
he  procured  the  treaty  of  alliance  of  1778  which  saved  the  Republic.  His  later 
works  were  of  diplomacy  and  philanthropy,  and  he  founded  the  Abolition  So- 
ciety. Fie  invented  the  harmonica,  and  the  Franklin  stove  ; and  in  1752  found 
the  identity  of  lightning  and  the  electric  fluid  by  means  of  a kite.  His  scientific 
labors  won  him  high  honor  in  Europe. 

Opposite  the  City  Hall  is  the  Parker  House  (PI.  19),  and  to  the  right  is 
King’s  Chapel. 

On  Washington  St.,  near  the  foot  of  School  St.,  is  the  Old  South 
Church,  the  shrine  of  Boston.  It  was  built  in  1729,  on  the  site  of  a 
cedar- wood  church  which  had  been  built  in  1669.  The  exciting  meetings 
of  the  people  in  the  late  colonial  days  were  held  here,  and  thence  marched 
the  disguised  men  to  the  attack  on  the  tea  ships  (Dec.  13th,  1773.)  In 
1775  the  pews  were  removed,  and  a riding-school  for  the  British  cavalry 
was  here  formed,  the  interior  being  well  packed  with  gravel,  and  a liquor 
saloon  being  placed  in  one  of  the  galleries.  The  church  was  restored  in 
1782,  and  contained  (until  1873)  two  galleries,  many  square  “pues  on  ye 
lower  flore,”  and  a pulpit  overarched  by  a sounding-board.  Externally  it 
is  plain,  with  a high  spire,  and  a clock.  “ More  eyes  are  upturned  to 
its  clock  daily  than  to  any  other  timekeeper  in  New  England.”  Franklin 
was  baptized  here  (in  the  older  church) ; Whitefield  has  preached  here  ; 
for  one  hundred  and  sixty  years  the  election  sermons  (before  the  legisla- 
ture, coimcil,  and  governor)  have  been  delivered  here  ; it  was  saved,  by 
deathless  heroism,  from  the  Great  Fire  ; and  yet  before  1875  this  ancient 
shrine  will  probably  be  torn  down  and  replaced  by  a line  of  shops  with 


12  Route  1. 


BOSTON. 


a Mansard  roof.  It  was  leased  to  the  Government  for  a Post  Office  in 
December,  1872. 

Near  the  Old  South,  on  Milk  and  Devonshire  Sts.,  is  the  structure 
to  be  occupied  by  the  U.  S.  Post  Office  and  Sub-Treasury  (PI.  44).  It  is 
built  of  granite,  in  the  prevalent  French  style  of  architecture,  with  an 
immense  roof,  and  groups  of  statuary  on  the  front.  Its  great  size,  and 
the  fineness  of  its  materials,  render  it  an  imposing  building.  The  mas- 
sive granite  front  on  Milk  St.  was  so  much  cracked  and  injured  in 
the  Great  Fire  (by  intense  heat  from  across  the  street)  that  much  of  it 
had  to  be  rebuilt.  The  building  fronts  200  ft.  on  Devonshire  St.,  and 
will  cost  from  $ 2,000,000  to  $ 3,000,000.  From  this  building  (which  was 
held  desperately  and  successfully  against  the  fire)  the  burnt  district  lies 
on  the  south,  east,  and  west.  From  the  Old  South  Church,  Washington 
St.,  the  main  retail  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  runs  southwest,  and  is 
always  filled  with  a busy  throng.  On  the  corner  of  School  St.  is  the 
Old  Corner  Bookstore,  in  a building  dating  from  1712.  Farther  along 
are  the  two  principal  theatres,  and  some  large  bookstores.  The  corner 
of  Washington  and  Winter  Sts.  is  the  liveliest  point  in  the  city,  and 
Winter  St.  is  full  of  ladies’  shops. 

From  Boylston  Market  Boylston  St.  runs  out  past  the  Common. 
At  the  corner  of  Tremont  St.,  and  facing  the  Common,  is  the  Masonic 
Temple  (PI.  45),  built  1864-67.  The  first  Masonic  Lodge  in  America  met 
in  Boston  in  1733,  since  when  the  order  has  steadily  grown,  save  during 
the  days  of  the  Anti-Masonic  party.  The  Temple  is  a lofty  edifice  of 
granite,  built  in  such  forms  of  mediaeval  architecture  as  “to  suggest  the 
most  effective  poetical  and  historical  associations  connected  with  the  Ma- 
sonic institution.”  The  interior  contains  Corinthian,  Egyptian,  and  Gothic 
Halls,  besides  banqueting-rooms,  &c.  Opposite  the  Temple  is  the  large 
and  elegant  Hotel  Boylston  (suites  of  rooms  for  permanent  dwellers),  in 
the  Italian-Gothic  style.  The  lofty  brownstone  building  of  the  Hotel 
Pelham  is  on  the  opposite  corner,  next  door  to  which  is  the  * Boston  Pub- 
lic Library,  in  a so-called  fire-proof  building  of  brick  and  sandstone. 
This  Library  contains  193,000  volumes,  and  100,000  pamphlets,  and  is  the 
largest  in  America,  except  the  Library  of  Congress.  The  Lower  Hall  is 
devoted  to  popular  books  and  a reading-room,  while  the  noble  Bates  Hall, 
above,  is  reserved  for  more  substantial  works.  All  these  rooms  are  open 
to  the  public,  and  any  one  can  take  books  and  read  there,  though  only  resi- 
dents of  the  city  can  take  books  from  the  building.  The  walls  of  the  rooms 
are  covered  with  pictures,  which  form  part  of  the  collection  of  engravings 
formerly  owned  by  Cardinal  Tosti,  of  Borne.  This  collection,  embracing 
from  6,000  to  7,000  pictures  (many  being  fine  old  works  of  Marc  Antonio 
and  Albert  Diirer),  was  presented  to  the  Library  by  Mr.  T.  G.  Appleton, 
and  fills  many  volumes. 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.  13 


The  U.  S.  Court  House,  corner  Tremont  St.  and  Temple  PI.,  was 
built  and  long  used  as  a Masonic  Temple.  It  has  a churchly  look,  and 
the  main  walls  are  built  of  triangular  blocks  of  granite.  Next  to  the 
Court  House  is  St.  Paul’s  Episcopal  Church,  of  gray  granite,  with  6 
columns  of  Potomac  sandstone  upholding  a classic  pediment.  Near  this, 
at  the  corner  of  Park  St.  (formerly  called  Brimstone  Corner),  is  Park 
Street  Church,  an  old  Puritan  meeting-house,  where  the  able  and  bril- 
liant Murray  is  now  settled.  Adjoining  the  Church  is  the  Old  Granary 
Burying  Ground , where  are  buried  Governor  Bellingham  (died  1672),  and 
8 other  colonial  and  state  governors,  2 signers  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  6 famous  divines,  Peter  Faneuil,  who  gave  the  Hall  to 
Boston,  Paul  Revere,  the  Revolutionary  hero,  Chief  Justice  Samuel  Sew- 
all,  J ohn  Hancock  (see  Quincy),  and  Samuel  Adams. 

Samuel  Adams,  born  at  Boston  in  1722,  was  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  people  in 
the  agitations  of  1764  - 75,  and  was  proscribed  by  the  royal  government.  In  1769 
he  advocated  the  independence  of  America,  and  during  the  Revolution  directed 
the  measures  of  Congress  in  the  Northern  war.  “ Though  poor,  Samuel  Adams 
possessed  a lofty  and  incorruptible  spirit,  was  pure  in  morals,  and  grave  and  austere 
in  manner,  though  warm  in  his  feelings.  As  a speaker,  he  was  pure,  concise, 
logical,  and  impressive  ; and  the  energy  of  his  diction  was  not  inferior  to  the 
strength  of  his  mind.”  The  State  is  to  place  his  statue  in  the  Capitol  at  Wash- 
ington. A granite  pyramid  is  over  the  remains  of  Franklin’s  parents.  From 
the  sidewalk  before  the  cemetery  rises  a row  of  tall  elms,  which  were  transplanted 
from  England,  and  placed  here  in  1762. 

Opposite  the  Church  is  the  extensive  publishing  house  of  James  R.  Os- 
good & Co.,  and  beyond  it,  down  Hamilton  PL,  is  seen  the  plain  wall 
of  Music  Hall  (PI.  25).  Entrance  from  Central  PL,  15  Winter  St.,  or 
at  116  Tremont  St.  This  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  and  well-arranged 
halls  in  America,  and  is  of  rare  acoustic  properties.  Within  this  hall 
is  the  largest  organ  in  the  New  World,  containing  5474  pipes,  and  84  com- 
plete registers,  and  encased  in  an  elegant  frame,  with  a colossal  statue 
of  Beethoven  in  the  foreground.  The  organ  was  built  by  Herr  Walcker, 
of  Ludwigsburg,  1857  - 63,  at  a cost  of  $ 60,000  dollars,  and  is  often  played 
by  competent  professionals.  Farther  along  Tremont  St.,  on  the  right,  is 
the  elegant  white  granite  building  of  the  Horticultural  Hall,  with  a many- 
columned  front,  — Doric  in  the  first  story,  Ionic  in  the  second,  and  Corin- 
thian in  the  third.  The  rich  cornice  is  surmounted  by  a colossal  Ceres,  a 
copy  from  the  ancient  statue  in  the  Vatican ; while  on  piers,  at  the  cor- 
ners of  the  second  story,  are  statues  of  Flora  and  Pomona.  Fairs,  floral 
shows,  and  lectures  are  held  in  the  spacious  halls  above.  Alongside  the 
Hall  is  the  Studio  Building,  the  home  of  many  local  artists. 

Tremont  Temple  comes  next,  with  a plain  Palladian  front,  and  a great 
hall,  which  is  used  on  Sunday  by  a Baptist  church,  and  during  the  week 
for  lectures,  readings,  etc.  On  the  same  side  of  the  street  is  King’s 
Chapel,  built  in  1754,  by  the  Episcopalians,  on  the  site  of  the  first  church 
of  that  sect  in  Boston  (built  16S9).  King’s  Chapel  was  deserted  by  its 


14  Route  1. 


BOSTON. 


people  when  Gage  and  the  Loyalists  left  the  town,  and  was  occupied  by 
the  Old  South  Society.  At  a later  day,  influenced  by  their  rector,  Rev. 
James  Freeman,  the  few  remaining  churchmen  revised  their  liturgy,  strik- 
ing out  all  Trinitarianism,  and  formed  themselves  into  the  first  Unitarian 
church  in  Boston.  Next  to  this  Church  is  the  burying-ground  used  by 
the  Puritans  from  1630  onward.  Isaac  Johnson,  “ The  Father  of  Bos- 
ton,” was  buried  here  ere  the  first  year  of  the  settlement  was  ended. 
About  him  his  people  were  buried  for  many  years.  In  one  tomb  is  Gov- 
ernor J ohn  Winthrop,  and  his  two  sons,  who  were  governors  of  Connecticut. 

John  Winthrop,  a pious  lawyer  of  Suffolk,  led  a colony  to  Salem  in  1630.  He 
moved  his  people  to  Boston  and  built  up  that  place,  where  he  ruled  as  Governor 
of  Massachusetts,  1630-34,  1637  -40,  1642-44, 1646-49.  He  was  an  amiable  gen- 
tleman, a firm  ruler,  and  a believer  in  moderate  aristocratic  principles,  stating  in 
his  letter  to  the  people  of  Connecticut,  that  “the  best  part  of  a community  is 
always  the  least,  and  of  that  part  the  wiser  are  still  less.” 

Other  noted  Puritans  are  buried  here,  and  in  the  church  are  monuments 
to  the  families  of  Apthorpe,  Shirley,  and  Vassall. 

Beyond  the  cemetery  is  a granite  building,  partly  occupied  by  the 
Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  which  has  a library  of  16,000  books, 
and  800  volumes  of  MSS.  Many  ancient  portraits  (Increase  Mather, 
Sebastian  Cabot,  &c.)  adorn  the  walls,  while  relics  of  Washington  and 
the  Puritan  governors,  and  of  King  Philip,  the  chair  of  Winslow,  the 
swords  of  Church  and  of  Governor  Carver,  are  carefully  preserved  here. 
The  New  England  Historic-Genealogical  Society  (18  Somerset  St.)  has  a 
fine  library,  and  a small  collection  of  curiosities. 

At  40  Winter  St.  are  the  rooms  of  the  American  and  Foreign  Chris- 
tian Union,  the  Sunday  School  Union,  the  Peace  Society,  and  the  Congre- 
gational Association.  Churchmen  of  the  various  sects  will  find  their 
respective  headquarters  as  follows : Baptist  Mission  Society,  12  Bedford 
St.  ; Congregational  Club,  corner  Somerset  and  Beacon  Sts.  ; Publishing 
Society,  13  Cornhill ; Episcopal  Church  Association,  corner  West  and 
Tremont ; Methodist  Educational  and  Historical  Societies,  38  Bromfield  ; 
New  Church  Union,  2 Hamilton  Place  (library  and  reading-room) ; 
Universalist  Publishing  House,  37  Cornhill ; American  Unitarian  Asso- 
ciation, 42  Chauncy  St.  ; Christian  Unity,  375  Harrison  Ave.  ; Parker 
Fraternity,  554  Washington  St.  The  General  Theological  Library  (22 
West  St.)  and  the  Mercantile  Library  are  much  used,  and  the  reading- 
rooms  of  the  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  (corner  Tremont  and 
Eliot)  and  the  Young  Men’s  Christian  Union  (300  Washington  St.) 
are  pleasant,  and  freely  open.  The  British,  Irish,  Scotch,  Germans,  and 
Italians  have  benevolent  societies.  In  Boston  there  are  27  lodges,  8 
chapters,  and  6 commanderies  of  Masons,  18  lodges  and  5 encampments 
of  Odd  Fellows,  22  divisions  of  Sons  of  Temperance,  13  Temples  of 
Honor,  7 lodges  of  Good  Templars,  9 posts  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.  15 


Republic,  15  lodges  of  the  Knights  of  Pythias,  and  4 lodges  of  the  Haru- 
gari  (Germans). 

On  Tremont,  near  School  St.,  is  the  Boston  Museum  (entrance  fee, 
30  cts.)  where,  in  a lofty  hall,  a great  number  of  rare  things  are 
shown,  embracing  curiosities  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  casts,  wax-fig- 
ures, scores  of  portraits  of  eminent  Americans  (by  West,  Copley,  Stuart, 
etc.),  and  Sully’s  great  picture  of  Washington  crossing  the  Delaware. 

Boston  Common.  When  the  peninsula  of  Shawmut  (now  Boston)  was 
bought  from  Blackstone  for  £ 30,  in  the  year  1634,  this  tract  was  reserved  by  the 
colonists  for  a training-ground  (parade)  and  pasture.  Every  attempt  since  made 
to  occupy  portions  of  it  has  been  repulsed,  except  in  the  early  days,  when  the 
ground  between  Park,  Beacon,  and  Tremont  Sts.  was  taken.  Special  care  was 
taken,  in  1822,  when  the  city  was  formed,  to  withhold  from  the  municipal  gov- 
ernment the  power  of  alienating  any  part  of  the  Common.  Between  1656  and 
1660  several  persons  were  executed  here  on  the  charge  of  witchcraft,  and  for  one 
hundred  and  fifty  years  after  executions  took  place  on  the  Common.  During  the 
summer  of  1676  many  scores  of  Indians  caught  red-handed  were  put  to  death 
here,  among  whom  was  the  insurgent  chief  Matoonus.  Thirty  were  executed  in 
one  day,  and  their  heads  were  fastened  on  stakes  and  left  in  public  places.  About 
this  time  (1675)  the  traveller  Josselyn  speaks  of  it  as  “ a small  but  pleasant  Com- 
mon, where  the  Gallants,  a little  before  sunset,  walk,  with  their  Marmalet- 
Madams,  till  the  bell  at  9 o’clock  rings  them  home.  In  1728  occurred  a fatal 
duel,  under  the  Old  Elm,  whereupon  a law  was  passed,  that  persons  killed  in 
duels  should  be  denied  Christian  burial,  and  should  be  buried  transfixed  with  a 
stake.  If  the  duel  was  not  fatal,  both  parties  should  stand  on  the  gallows  one 
hour  with  a rope  about  their  necks,  and  then  be  imprisoned  for  one  year.  So  the 
so-called  code  of  honor  passed  from  the  social  system  of  Massachusetts.  In  1749 
George  Whitefield  preached  to  20,000  persons  in  one  body  on  the  Common. 
During  the  American  siege  of  Boston  a British  fort  was  built  on  the  hill  near 
the  Elm  Tree,  which  drew  some  of  Washington’s  heavy  shot.  Races,  parades, 
and  military  executions  were  meanwhile  held  here.  The  garrison  of  the  town  in 
1812  encamped  here,  and  so  late  as  1830  it  was  a cow-pasture  enclosed  by  a two- 
railed  fence.  In  1836  the  present  iron-fence  (1^  M.  long)  was  built,  and  cattle 
were  excluded.  In  the  days  of  the  Rebellion  the  assembling  troops  paraded  here, 
and  in  the  Great  Fire  of  1872  vast  mounds  of  saved  goods  were  piled  along  the 
malls  and  on  the  lawns. 

Boston  Common  contains  about  48  acres,  and  is  ricli  in  lawns  and 
noble  trees.  No  carriages  are  allowed  to  enter,  and  the  walks  are  filled 
with  people  on  pleasant  summer  evenings  and  Sundays.  Under  the 
stately  elms  of  the  Beacon  and  Tremont  St.  Malls  are  favorite  prome- 
nades. Near  Park  St.  is  the  Brewer  fountain,  made  in  Paris,  and  em- 
bellished with  bronze  statues  of  Neptune  and  Amphitrite,  Acis  and  Gal- 
atea. Copies  of  this  fountain  have  been  made  for  the  cities  of  Lyons, 
Bordeaux,  and  Alexandria  (Egypt).  The  Frog  Pond  has  a large  foun- 
tain, supplied  from  Cochituate  Lake,  and  near  it  is  the  Old  Elm,  — a great 
and  ancient  tree  which  is  peculiarly  revered  by  the  Bostonians,  and  has 
been  bolted  and  bandaged  with  iron  and  canvas,  and  fenced  in,  and  so 
preserves  its  hale  and  verdant  strength.  On  Flagstaff  Hill,  near  the  Old 
Elm,  a soldiers’  monument  is  to  be  built,  to  be  90  ft.  high,  with  historical 
reliefs,  &c. ; at  the  four  corners  heroic  statues  of  Peace,  History,  the  Army, 
and  the  Navy.  Above  will  be  allegorical  figures,  — the  North,  South,  East, 


1 6 Route  1. 


BOSTON. 


and  West,  — and  above  all  a colossal  America,  resting  on  a hemisphere, 
guarded  by  four  eagles,  with  the  flag  in  her  left  hand,  and  wreaths  and  a 
sheathed  sword  in  her  right.  In  the  south  part,  near  the  old  cemetery, 
is  a deer-park.  The  west  part  of  the  Common  is  smooth  and  bare,  and  is 
reserved  for  a parade-ground  and  a ball-ground  for  the  boys. 

The  Public  Gardens  lie  west  of  the  Common,  and  contain  22  acres. 
In  1794,  6 ropewalks  were  built  here,  on  tide-water  flats,  and  most  of 
the  improvements  have  been  made  during  the  past  15  years.  In  its 
centre  is  a beautiful  artificial  serpentine  pond  of  4 acres,  crossed  by  a fine 
bridge.  Near  Beacon  St.  is  a bronze  statue  of  Everett , by  Story,  mod- 
elled in  Borne  and  cast  in  Munich.  The  monument  to  the  discovery  of 
anaesthetics  (1868)  is  a rich  and  beautiful  composition.  * Venus  rising 
from  the  Sea  is'  a lovely  work,  from  above  which,  when  the  waters  play, 
a fine  spray  falls  about  the  figure,  which  is  sometimes  called  “the  Maid 
of  the  Mist.”  But  the  finest  work  of  the  kind  in  New  England  is  the 
colossal  equestrian  * Statue  of  Washington , by  Ball,  which  fronts  on 
Commonwealth  Ave.  The  statue  is  22  ft.  high,  on  a pedestal  16  ft. 
high.  The  bronze  work  was  done  at  Chicopee,  in  this  State. 

Commonwealth  Ave.  — which  is  to  be  1 J miles  long  and  is  240  ft. 
wide,  with  a park  in  the  middle  — runs  W.  from  the  Public  Gardens,  and 
is  lined  with  fine  mansions.  A statue  of  Alexander  Hamilton  is  in  the 
park.  Nearly  all  the  land  north  of  Tremont  and  west  of  Arlington  St. 
has  been  reclaimed  from  the  water,  and  is  now  the  finest  part  of  the  city. 
The  new  streets  are  alphabetically  named,  yet  they  avoid  the  weak  sound 
of  the  upper  New  York  and  Washington  city  streets,  having  sonorous  old 
English  titles,  — Arlington,  Berkeley,  Clarendon,  Dartmouth,  Exeter,  Fair- 
field,  Gloucester,  &c.  At  the  corner  of  Marlborough  and  Berkeley  Streets 
is  the  * rich  and  elegant  building  (with  English  glass,  a German  organ, 
and  an  exquisite  little  cloister)  of  the  First  Church  in  Boston  (Unita- 
rian). This  society  dates  from  1630.  Nearby,  on  the  corner  of  Berke- 
ley and  Newbury  Sts.,  is  the  miniature  cathedral  of  the  Central  Congre- 
gational Society.  It  is  of  Boxbury  stone,  in  cruciform  shape,  has  a stone 
spire  240  ft.  high,  and  is  rich  in  lofty,  pointed  windows,  pinnacles,  flying 
buttresses,  &c.  It  cost  $ 325,000.  In  this  vicinity  is  the  Emanuel  Church 
(Episcopal)  on  Newbury  St.,  and  the  fine  brownstone  Arlington  St. 
Church  (Unitarian)  with  its  melodious  chime  of  bells.  Alongside  the  Cen- 
tral Church  is  the  fine  building  of  the  Society  of  Natural  History,  where 
courses  of  lectures  are  given.  The  extensive  collections  embrace  birds, 
shells,  reptiles,  fishes,  insects,  fossils,  with  sections  devoted  to  ethnology, 
geology,  palaeontology,  mineralogy,  and  microscopy.  The  finest  collection 
of  mounted  skeletons  in  America  is  kept  here.  The  classic  building  of 
the  Institute  of  Technology  is  close  to  the  Museum.  This  is  a richly- 
endowed  popular  school  of  high  order,  whose  object  is  to  teach  the  appli- 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.  17 


cation  of  science  to  the  useful  arts,  for  which  purpose  it  is  provided  with 
fine  cabinets  and  apparatus. 

The  * State  House  (PI.  13)  is  on  the  summit  of  Beacon  Hill,  fronting 
the  Common.  Its  corner-stone  was  drawn  to  the  place  July  4,  1795, 
by  fifteen  white  horses,  amid  great  ceremonies.  The  most  prominent  ob- 
jects on  the  exterior  are  the  fine  Corinthian  colonnade  and  the  high  round 
dome.  When  the  Legislature  (or  General  Court)  is  in  session,  national 
flags  are  displayed  from  the  building.  The  * Doric  Hall,  at  the  entrance, 
is  a neat,  marble-paved  room,  supported  by  columns,  and  surrounded  by 
high  niches,  fronted  with  plate-glass,  in  which  are  gathered  the  banners 
of  the  Massachusetts  regiments  borne  in  the  War  for  the  Union.  On  the 
right  are  busts  of  Charles  Sumner  and  Samuel  Adams,  and  on  the  left  a 
bust  of  Abraham  Lincoln  and  a statue  of  Gov.  John  A.  Andrew,  by  Ball. 
In  a marble-paved  and  banner-hung  rotunda,  opening  on  the  Doric  Hall, 
is  Chan  trey’s  * Statue  of  Washington,  in  front  of  which  are  copies  of  the 
monuments  of  the  old  Washington  family,  at  Brington,  in  Northampton- 
shire. The  House  of  Representatives  (up  stairs  to  the  left  from  the  Doric 
Hall)  is  a plain  and  somewhat  crowded  hall,  with  a codfish  hanging  from 
the  roof,  as  emblematic  of  a prolific  source  of  the  wealth  of  the  State, 
The  Senate  Chamber  is  on  the  other  side,  and  is  adorned  by  some  old  por- 
traits and  trophies.  The  extensive  State  Library  is  in  the  west  wing. 
From  the  dome  of  the  State  House  (open  when  the  Legislature  is  not  in 
session)  is  obtained  a fine  * view.  Boston  Harbor,  with  its  islands,  and 
peninsulas,  and  the  distant  blue  ocean,  fill  the  east ; in  the  north  are 
Charlestown,  its  Navy  Yard  and  Monument,  with  Lynn,  Chelsea,  Malden, 
and  Medford  ; to  the  west,  Charles  River  and  Back  Bay,  Cambridge,  Brigh- 
ton, Brookline,  and  Newton  ; and  in  the  south,  Roxbury  and  Dorchester, 
with  the  blue  hills  of  Milton  far  away.  On  the  terraces  in  front  of  the 
building  are  bronze  statues  of  Daniel  Webster  and  Horace  Mann,  the 
great  educationist.  The  house  opposite  (comer  Park  and  Beacon  Sts.) 
was  for  40  years  the  home  of  George  Ticknor,  author  of  the  “ History 
of  Spanish  Literature,”  in  3 volumes  (translated  into  German  and  Span- 
ish), who  bequeathed  4,000-5,000  Spanish  books  to  the  Public  Library. 
The  Union  Club  (600  members),  a patriotic  organization  formed  in  1863, 
occupies  the  next  house  below  (on  Park  St.).  On  Beacon  St.,  near  the 
State  House,  is  the  * Boston  Athenseum,  a neat,  brownstone  building, 
in  the  Palladian  style.  On  the  lower  floor  is  the  library  of  the  American 
Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  and  a large  reading-room  adorned  with 
statuary.  In  the  vestibule  are  casts  of  Houdon’s  Washington  and  of 
Sophocles,  also  a marble  statue  — The  First  Inspiration  of  Columbus  — 
by  Montaverde,  and  a bronze  group  — the  Boy  and  the  Eagle  — by  Green - 
ough.  Among  the  statuary  in  the  reading-room  is  Orpheus  in  Hades, 
Craioford;  Hebe  and  Ganymede,  Crawford ; Children,  Greenough;  and 


1 8 Route  1. 


BOSTON. 


fine  casts  of  Thorwaldsen’s  Venus,  Angelo’s  Night  and  Morning,  the 
Laocoon,  Apollo  Belvedere,  Minerva,  Menander,  Barberini  Faun,  &c.  On 
the  second  floor  is  a noble  library  of  nearly  100,000  volumes,  including 
the  library  of  Washington,  and  400-500  volumes  of  engravings.  The 
building  and  its  contents  being  owned  by  the  Athenaeum,  an  introduction 
from  one  of  its  members  will  give  strangers  the  benefits  of  the  library. 
The  stairways  are  lined  with  large  paintings,  and  on  the  third  floor  is 
the  Picture  Gallery  (fee,  25  cts.).  300-350  pictures  are  on  exhibition 
here,  mostly  copies  from  the  old  masters. 

The  original  works  (numbers  often  changed)  are,  * Sortie  from  Gibraltar,  Trum- 
bull (his  masterpiece)  ; Arch  of  Octavius,  Bierstadt;  Belshazzar’s  Feast,  Allston 
(“The  American  Titian”);  Mount  Washington,  Gay ; * Isaac  of  York,  Allston ; 
Indian  Captive,  Weir;  Angels  appearing  to  Shepherds,  Cole ; Priam  and  dead 
Hector,  Trumbull ; portraits  of  * Washington  and  his  Wife,  Stuart ; Benjamin 
West,  Allston ; Daniel  Webster.  Chief  Justice  Marshall,  Harding  ; William  Tudor, 
Sully  ; the  Rajah  Rammoliun  Roy,  R.  Peale  ; William  Wirt,  Inman;  * Count  of 
Wurtemberg  mourning  over  his  Dead  Son,  Ary  Schaeffer;  Storm  at  Sea,  Hue; 
Garden  of  Love,  Watteau;  two  fruit-pieces,  Peter  Boel ; Landscape,  Ruysdael ; 
Dante  and  Beatrice,  Schaeffer ; The  Flaying  of  Marsyas,  and  the  Golden  Age, 
Luca  Giordano.  There  are  a great  number  of  copies  (in  oil)  of  famous  European 
pictures,  and  in  one  room  50  of  the  chromo-lithographs  of  the  Arundel  Society 
(London),  being  copies  of  famous  religious  paintings  in  the  noontide  of  art.  In 
these  rooms  are  casts  of  the  antique  works,  — the  Quoit- Players,  Piping  Faun,  Si- 
lenus  and  Bacchus,  Boy  with  a thorn  in  his  foot,  the  Venus  eke  Milo,  and  the 
Dying  Gladiator,  with  busts  of  J ulius  Csesar,  Augustus,  Tiberius,  Caligula,  Clau- 
dius, Nero,  Galba,  Otho,  Vitellius,  Vespasian,  Titus,  Domitian,  Nerva,  Trajan.  Ha- 
drian, the  Antonines,  &c.  A beautiful  marble  copy  of  the  Venus  de  Medici  is  in 
one  room,  also  (in  marble)  Greek  Girl,  by  Wolf;  * Maid  of  Carthage,  Greenough ; 
Will  o’  the  Wisp,  Harriet  Hosmer ; * Venus  Victrix,  Greenough. 

One  room  is  occupied  by  a large  collection  of  Egyptian  antiquities,  embracing 
hundreds  of  figures  of  the  gods  Osiris,  Amun,  Horus,  Isis,  &c.,  in  bronze,  marble, 
wood,  porcelain,  and  terra-cotta  ; also  a large  number  of  scarabsei,  amulets,  vases, 
and  curious  jewels.  There  are  also  seven  human  mummies,  with  a great  number 
of  funereal  trappings,  and  mummies  of  monkeys,  lambs,  ibises,  cats,  hawks,  mice, 
crocodiles,  tortoises,  snakes,  &c.  There  are  1,100  pieces  in  this  collection  (cata- 
logue, at  the  door,  25  cts.). 

In  the  next  room  are  several  hundred  lamps,  amphorae,  cups,  statuettes,  heads, 
weapons,  &c.,  from  Idalium,  on  the  Island  of  Cyprus,  of  great  interest  to  the 
student  of  early  Phoenician  and  Greek  history.  The  Appleton  collection  is  on  the 
same  floor,  containing  many  Graeco-Italian  fictile  painted  vases  from  Etruscan 
and  Campanian  tombs.  Some  elaborate  old  cabinets  contain  fine  Venetian  glass- 
ware, and  a large  number  of  rich  majolica  plates  are  exhibited.  A large  piece  of 
Gobelins  tapestry  (France  crowned  by  Victory  and  attended  by  Minerva)  occupies 
one  end  of  the  room  ; at  the  other  end  is  a group  of  plaster  casts  from  famous  Italian 
bas-reliefs,  near  which  is  a Madonna  and  Child,  by  Luca  della  Robbia,  and  the 
Virgin  adoring  the  infant  Jesus,  by  Andrea  della  Robbia.  Two  large  pictures  by 
Boucher , two  by  Allston,  a large  collection  of  ancient  coins  (a  gold  Alexander),  and 
the  rich  oaken  panels,  carved  and  gilded,  from  the  Chateau  Montmorency,  are 
worthy  of  note.  The  positions  of  the  pictures  and  curiosities  are  so  often  changed 
that  a more  careful  list  would  be  of  no  permanent  use. 

Near  the  Athenaeum  is  Pemberton  Square,  the  site  of  an  old  Indian  ne- 
cropolis, where  300  skulls  were  dug  up  in  Cotton  Mather’s  time.  Gover- 
nor Endicott  and  Sir  Henry  Vane  lived  near  this  spot,  and  in  later  days 
it  was  an  aristocratic  centre.  Now  its  houses  are  occupied  by  offices,  and 
in  the  Mission  Rooms  (number  35)  is  kept  a small  museum  of  curiosities 
from  “ lands  of  heathenesse.”  Louisburg  Square  is  a stately  and  silent  place 


BOSTON. 


Route  1.  19 


on  the  farther  slope  of  Beacon  Hill,  embellished  with  statues  of  Aristides 
and  Columbus.  Near  the  State  House  is  a vast  and  massive  granite 
structure,  200  feet  square  and  66  feet  high,  on  Derne  St.,  which  is 
called  the  Beacon  Hill  Reservoir,  and  holds,  at  this  high  level,  about 
2,700,000  gallons  of  water. 

The  Perkins  Institution  for  the  Blind  was  founded  in  1831,  by  Dr.  S. 
G.  Howe.  It  was  favored  by  liberal  popular  contributions,  and  now  oc- 
cupies large  buildings  on  Mt.  Washington,  S.  Boston.  Charles  Dickens 
visited  and  highly  praised  this  institution,  as  also  the  charitable  and  cor- 
rective establishments  in  a secluded  position  near  Independence  Square, 
S.  Boston  (Insane  Hospital  and  House  of  Correction). 

“Such  are  the  institutions  at  South  Boston.  In  all  of  them  the  unfortunate  or 
degenerate  citizens  of  the  State  are  carefully  instructed  in  their  duties  both  to 
God  and  man  ; are  surrounded  by  all  reasonable  means  of  comfort  or  happiness 
that  their  condition  will  admit  of  ; and  are  ruled  by  the  strong  Heart,  and  not  by 
the  strong  (though  immeasurably  weaker)  Hand.”  — Dickens. 

The  extensive  Carney  Hospital  (managed  by  Sisters  of  Charity)  is  near  by  on 
the  hill,  and  above  it  is  a reservoir  and  small  park  near  the  site  of  the  old  fort. 
On  the  bright,  moonlit  night  of  March  3, 1776,  General  Thomas  and  2,000  Ameri- 
cans advanced  quietly  to  this  point  (Dorchester  Heights),  and,  when  morning 
dawned,  two  strong  forts  were  completed  within  point-blank  range  of  Boston. 
Lord  Percy  and  2,400  royal  troops  were  ordered  to  attack  them,  and  Washington 
himself,  with  4,000  men,  awaited  the  onset.  But  a storm,  “ propitious  to  the 
real  interests  of  the  British  army,”  prevented  Percy  from  crossing  the  harbor.  A 
few  days  later  the  city  was  heavily  bombarded,  and  a new  fort  having  been  built 
still  nearer,  the  royal  forces  were  forced  to  evacuate  Boston,  March  18,  sailing 
away  in  150  transports,  and  carrying  with  them  3,000  New-Englanders  who  re- 
mained loyal  to  King  George.  From  this  little  park  a fine  view  is  obtained  of 
Boston  and  its  harbor,  and  of  Dorchester  and  the  southern  suburbs. 

The  South  End. 

The  district  south  of  Boylston  and  Essex  Sts.  is  mainly  occupied  by 
dwelling-houses,  and  Washington  St.,  with  its  retail  stores  and  hotels, 
runs  through  its  centre.  The  greater  part  of  this  district  has  been  re- 
claimed from  the  water.  Near  the  line  of  Dover  St.  a wall  garnished 
with  cannon  formerly  crossed  the  Neck  and  defended  the  town.  Union 
Park  and  Worcester  and  Chester  Squares  are  embellished  with  trees  and 
fountains  and  surrounded  with  fine  residences.  Columbus  Ave.,on  the 
north,  is  a broad  thoroughfare  of  aristocratic  pretensions  and  forming  an 
admirable  drive-way.  On  Tremont  St.  is  the  imposing  white  granite 
edifice  of  Odd  Fellows’  Hall  (built  1871-73),  and  beyond  it  some  fine 
churches,  the  best  of  which  is  the  quaint  and  rambling  Methodist  Church. 
On  Harrison  Ave.,  near  Concord  St.,  is  the  City  Hospital  (PI.  10.)  with 
a fine  building  (surmounted  by  a dome)  in  the  centre,  joined  to  the 
spacious  wings  by  curving  colonnades.  Near  the  Hospital  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  Home  for  Orphans,  and  the  Jesuit  Church  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception  (with  a fine  interior,  and  famed  for  its  music),  connected  with 
which  is  Boston  College. 


20  Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


The  Roman  Catholic  * Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross  is  on  the  corner  of 
Washington  and  Malden  Sts.  This  stately  structure  was  commenced  in 
1867,  and  is  yet  far  from  completion.  The  mediaeval  Gothic  architec- 
ture has  been  closely  adhered  to  in  its  construction,  though  in  its  phase  of 
severest  simplicity.  Its  external  length  (including  the  Chapel  of  the  Holy 
Cross)  is  365  ft. ; the  nave  is  320  ft.  long  and  120  ft.  high.  The  Cathedral 
is  188  ft.  wide  at  the  transepts,  and  in  the  nave  and  aisles  its  width  is  90 
ft.  The  external  length  is  greater  than  that  of  the  Cathedrals  at  Vienna, 
Ratisbon,  Munich,  Orvieto,  Messina,  Monreale,  Pisa,  Venice,  Freibourg, 
Treves,  or  St.  Denis.  It  is  higher  (in  the  nave)  than  the  Cathedrals  at 
Vienna,  Munich,  Paris,  Spires,  Strasburg,  Freibourg,  Rheims,  Chartres, 
Antwerp,  or  St.  Ouen  at  Rouen.  The  main  spire  is  to  reach  a height  of 
320  ft. , and  to  be  provided  with  a fine  chime  of  bells.  St.  Patrick’s  Ca- 
thedral, at  New  York,  and  the  Montreal  Cathedral  (just  commenced)  are 
the  only  rivals  in  America  of  the  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross. 

2.  Environs  of  Boston. 

“ It  is  not  only  in  the  Harvard  precincts  that  the  oldness  of  New  England  is  to 
be  remarked.  Although  her  people  are  everywhere  in  the  vanguard  of  all  pro- 
gress, their  country  has  a look  of  gahle-ends  and  steeple-hats,  while  their  laws 
seem  fresh  from  the  hands  of  Alfred.  In  all  England  there  is  no  city  which  has 
suburbs  so  gray  and  venerable  as  the  elm-shaded  towns  around  Boston,  — Dorches- 
ter, Chelsea,  Nahant,  and  Salem  ; the  people  speak  the  English  of  Elizabeth,  and 
joke  about  us  — ‘he  speaks  good  English  for  an  Englishman.’ ” — Sir  Charles 
Dilke. 

Boston  Harbor. 

The  Route  to  Nahant.  Soon  after  leaving  India  Wharf,  with  East 
Boston  on  the  left,  Governor’s  Island  is  passed  on  the  r.  This  island 
was  granted  to  Governor  Winthrop  in  1632,  and  was  long  called  Gover- 
nor’s Garden,  and  here,  according  to  Josselyn,  in  1638,  were  the  only 
apple  and  pear  trees  in  New  England.  A powerful  fortress  of  the  United 
States,  called  Fort  Winthrop,  now  occupies  the  island.  Soon  aftar  pass- 
ing the  Fort  the  steamer  enters  a narrow  strait,  between  Point  Shirley 
on  the  1.  and  Deer  Island  on  the  r.  The  point  was  named  in  honor 
of  William  Shirley,  Governor  of  Massachusetts  1741  to  1756,  sometime 
commander  of  the  British  armies  in  America,  and  Governor  of  the  Ba- 
hama Islands.  It  now  forms  the  S.  end  of  the  town  of  Winthrop,  and 
is  occupied  by  Taft’s  Hotel,  widely  renowned  for  its  excellent  fish  and 
game  dinners.  Opposite  Point  Shirley  is  Deer  Island  (4J  M.  from 
Boston),  <l  so-called  because  of  the  deare,  who  often  swim  thither  fr<3m 
the  maine  when  they  are  chased  by  the  wolves”  (17th  century).  During 
the  war  of  King  Philip  (1675-76)  this  place  presented  a pitiful  sight, 
for  hundreds  of  Indian  prisoners  were  landed  and  guarded  here,  and 
scores  of  them  died  of  hunger  and  from  exposure  to  the  winter  frosts.  At 
present  the  island  is  occupied  by  the  immense  buildings  (in  the  form  of  a 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2.  21 


Latin  Cross)  of  the  Boston  Almshouse,  and  of  the  House  of  Industry  and 
the  House  of  Reformation. 

In  May,  1776,  the  Boston  privateers  “ Franklin ” and  “Lady  Wash- 
ington ” grounded  on  Point  Shirley,  and  were  attacked  by  thirteen  British 
man-of-war  boats.  The  action  lasted  for  several  hours,  until  the  tide 
rose,  when  the  privateers  escaped.  In  the  war  of  1812  the  frigate  “Con- 
stitution ” was  once  blockaded  in  Boston  Harbor,  and  got  away  by  creep- 
ing through  Shirley  Gate  by  night.  Beyond  Point  Shirley  the  lofty  bluffs 
of  Winthrop  are  passed  on  the  1.,  succeeded  by  Chelsea  Beach  with  its 
hotels,  and  the  City  and  Harbor  of  Lynn,  in  full  view  of  which  the  wharf 
at  Nahant  is  gained. 

Nahant. 

By  steamer  direct  from  India  Wharf,  Boston,  or  by  Eastern  Railroad  to  Lynn, 
and  thence  by  omnibus  6 times  daily. 

Hotels.  — The  immense  hotel  at  East  Point,  built  1824,  and  long  the  pride  of 
the  coast,  was  burned  in  1861  ; there  remain  but  small  hotels,  — Whitney’s  Vil- 
lage Hotel,  Bay  View  Cottage,  Hood  Cottage. 

Nahant  is  a peninsula  composed  of  ocean-swept  rocks,  with  pleasant 
beaches  interspersed,  and  villas  scattered  over  its  heights,  where  many  of 
the  cultured  and  literary  people  of  Boston  and  Cambridge  spend  their 
summers.  It  is  12  M.  from  Boston  by  water  and  4 M.  from  Lynn  by 
land.  Crossing  the  long  and  narrow  sandy  isthmus  called  Lynn  Beach, 
with  the  roar  of  surf  continuous  on  the  ocean-front,  the  rocky  ridge 
of  Little  Nahant  is  passed,  and  Nahant  Beach  extends  to  the  peninsula 
proper.  Mr.  Tudor,  who  for  years  supplied  Massachusetts  ice  to  the 
four  quarters  of  the  world,  and  hence  is  called  the  “ Ice-King,”  has  fitted 
up  a pleasant  resort  for  visitors  on  the  north  side  of  Nahant.  About  20 
acres  of  picturesque  grounds  along  the  sea,  adorned  with  fountains  and 
shell-work,  and  commanding  a fine  view  of  Lynn  and  Swampscott,  com- 
pose this  Garden  of  Maolis  (Siloam).  Entrance  fee,  25  cts.  A good 
fish  or  clam  dinner  may  be  had  in  the  Maolis  pavilions.  Among  the 
jagged  and  savage-browed  cliffs  of  Nahant  are  numberless  curious  forma- 
tions of  the  rock,  named  as  follows : John’s  Peril,  a deep  chasm  in  the 
cliffs,  on  the  north,  and  near  Nahant  Beach ; the  Spouting  Horn,  where 
the  surf  dashes  through  a long,  rocky  tunnel  into  a cavern,  and  there  is 
spouted  forth  with  great  force  ; Castle  Rock,  a massive  and  regular  pile 
of  rock,  faintly  resembling  some  ancient  castle-keep  ; Caldron  Cliff  and 
Roaring  Cavern  are  grandly  resonant  in  time  of  storms ; Natural  Bridge, 
an  arch  of  rock  spanning  a narrow,  tide-swept  fissure  ; Pulpit  Rock ; and 
Sappho’s  Rock.  The  three  last-named  are  on  East  Point,  the  site  of  the 
vast  hotel,  of  which  a relic  remains,  in  the  shape  of  a pretty  little  classic 
building  on  the  outermost  promontory,  which  looks  like  an  ancient  Greek 
shrine  on  some  cliff  of  the  iEgean,  and  which  really  was  a billiard- 
saloon. 


22  Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


On  the  S.  shore  is  Swallows’  Cave,  a cavern  72  ft.  deep,  increasing 
from  10  ft.  wide  and  5 ft.  high  to  14  ft.  wide  and  20  ft.  high.  Near  the 
tall  rock  arch  called  Irene’s  Grotto  is  the  steamboat  landing.  N.  E. 
of  the  peninsula,  and  well  out  in  Nahant  Bay,  Egg  Rock  rises  sharply 
from  the  sea  to  the  height  of  86  ft.,  and  is  crowned  by  a lighthouse. 
Many  old  traditions  cluster  around  Nahant,  which  is  said  to  mean  “ Lov- 
ers’ Walk.” 

“ The  temperature  of  Nahant,  being  moderated  by  sea  breezes,  so  as  to  be  cooler 
in  summer  and  milder  in  winter  than  the  mainland,  is  regarded  as  being  highly 
conducive  to  health.  It  is  delightful  in  summer  to  ramble  round  this  romantic 
peninsula,  and  to  examine  at  leisure  its  interesting  curiosities  ; to  hear  the  waves 
rippling  the  colored  pebbles  of  the  beaches,  and  see  them  gliding  over  the  pro- 
jecting ledges  in  fanciful  cascades  ; to  behold  the  plovers  and  sandpipers  running 
along  the  beaches,  the  seal  slumbering  upon  the  outer  rocks,  the  white  gulls 
soaring  overhead,  the  porpoises  pursuing  their  rude  gambols  along  the  shore,  and 
the  curlew,  the  loon,  the  black  duck,  and  the  coot,  the  brant,  with  his  dappled 
neck,  and  the  oldwife,  with  her  strange,  wild,  vocal  melody,  swimming  gracefully 
in  the  coves  and  rising  and  sinking  with  the  swell  of  the  tide.  The  moonlight  even- 
ings here  are  exceedingly  lovely  ; and  the  phosphoric  radiance  of  the  billows,  on 
favorable  nights  (making  the  waters  look  like  a sea  of  fire)  exhibits  a scene  of 
wonderful  beauty/’  — Lewis. 

The  Route  to  Hull,  TIingham,  etc.  So  many  are  the  routes  by  water 
to  the  South  Shore  that  the  islands  in  that  part  of  the  harbor  will  be 
spoken  of  without  regard  to  any  special  course. 

S.  Boston  is  first  passed  on  the  right,  and  then  Fort  Winthrop,  near 
which,  due  E.  of  S.  Boston,  is  Castle  Island.  Fortifications  were  built 
here  in  1634,  “ to  make  many  shots  at  such  ships  as  shall  offer  to  enter 
the  harbor  without  their  good  leave  and  liking ; it  is  of  very  good  use 
to  awe  any  insolent  persons,  that,  putting  confidence  in  their  ships  and 
sails,  shall  offer  any  injury  to  the  people,  or  contemn  their  government ; 
and  they  have  certain  signals  of  alarms  (cannon  and  lights  on  Beacon  Hill) 
which  suddenly  spread  through  the  whole  country.”  At  the  coronation 
of  King  William,  the  battery  was  called  Castle  William,  and  was  much 
strengthened  by  the  British,  until  at  the  evacuation  of  Boston  they  de- 
stroyed it.  It  was  repaired  by  the  Americans  in  time  to  fire  a 13-gun 
salute  for  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne  (1777).  In  1798,  President  John 
Adams  being  present,  it  was  named  Fort  Independence,  and  ceded  to  the 
United  States.  The  present  fort  was  but  lately  completed. 

In  240  years  the  little  mud  fort,  passing  through  the  gradations  of  a 
wooden  palisade  and  a brick  “castle,”  has  developed  into  a granite  fort- 
ress of  great  power  and  destructive  force.  S.  E.  of  Castle  Island  is  Spec- 
tacle Island,  where  are  carried  the  dead  horses  from  Boston,  and  farther 
S.  is  Thompson’s  Island,  which  bears  the  State  Farm  School,  — a noble 
institution,  where  the  neglected  street  arabs  and  poor  orphans  of  the  State 
are  cared  for.  Well-fed  and  clothed,  they  are  employed  in  farming  in  the 
warmer  months,  and  schooling  in  the  winter,  and  at  the  age  of  twenty- 
one  receive  a suit  of  clothes  and  one  hundred  dollars.  Eastward  of 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2.  23 


Thompson’s  is  Long  Island  (where  the  steamer  stops),  the  site  of  a large 
hotel  once  very  popular.  On  the  high  bluffs  of  this  island  is  an  iron 
lighthouse  which  can  be  seen  from  15  M.  off  at  sea.  A powerful  bat- 
tery is  being  built  by  the  General  Government  at  the  head  of  Long  Island. 
E.  of  the  battery  is  the  reef  of  Nix’s  Mate,  with  a massive  pyramid  of 
stone  and  iron  32  ft.  high,  warning  seamen  of  a dangerous  shoal.  In  1636 
“ Nixes  ilande”  covered  12  acres,  and  it  long  served  as  a place  to  execute 
pirates  and  murderers.  The  legend  reports  that  Captain  Nix  Was  killed 
by  his  mate,  and  that  the  latter  was  executed  on  this  spot,  declaring  his 
innocence,  and  prophesying  that  the  island  would  wash  away  in  proof  of 
it.  The  fact  that  but  one  acre  of  shoal,  and  a low,  narrow  ledge  of  rocks 
remain,  is  thought  to  help  the  legend  very  much. 

S.  E.  of  Long  Island,  and  7 M.  from  Boston,  is  Rainsford’s  Island, 
where  a hospital  was  located  in  1738,  which  is  still  in  operation.  Gal- 
loup’s  Island,  to  the  N.,  is  one  of  the  Quarantine  Stations.  Still  farther 
E.,  on  George’s  Island,  stands  Fort  Warren,  a powerful  fortress  of  the 
first  class,  called  the  key  of  Boston  Harbor.  It  was  built  between  1833 
and  1850,  of  hammered  Quincy  granite  with  powerful  water-batteries.  Dur- 
ing the  Rebellion  many  Confederate  chiefs  were  imprisoned  in  its  case- 
mates, the  most  noted  of  whom  were  Mason  and  Slidell,  taken  from  the 
British  mail-steamer  “ Trent,”  Nov.  8,  1861,  by  Capt.  Wilkes,  of  the 
U.  S.  frigate  u San  Jacinto.”  The  British  government  made  a peremptory 
demand,  and  President  Lincoln  finally  surrendered  these  rebel  commis- 
sioners, who  went  to  Europe  in  January,  1862.  2 miles  E.  of  Fort  War- 

ren, on  a small  islet  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  stands  the  massive 
stone  shaft  of  Boston  Light.  This  structure  occupies  the  site  of  the 
lighthouse  established  in  1715,  and  is  furnished  'with  a powerful  revolving 
light  nearly  100  ft.  above  the  sea.  To  the  N.  is  a cluster  of  rocky 
islets,  and  to  the  E.  is  the  Bug  Light,  over  Harding’s  Ledge,  where  6 well- 
braced,  slender  iron  pillars  uphold  a small  house,  over  which  is  a fixed 
red  light. 

Hull  ( several  good  hotels ), 

a small  village  under  the  lee  of  a high  hill,  crowned  by  a marine  observa- 
tory, is  much  visited  during  the  summer.  The  town  of  Hull  occupies  the 
great  natural  breakwater  which  runs  N.  and  W.  from  the  South  Shore, 
and  guards  the  harbor.  Its  population  is  small,  and  its  alertness  in 
political  campaigns,  joined  with  its  practical  insignificance  therein,  do 
not  fail  to  draw  forth,  much  good-humored  jesting  from  the  Bostonians. 
The  road  to  the  outer  beach  leads  near  Point  Allerton  (from  Isaac  Aller- 
ton,  an  adventurous  Pilgrim,  who  cruised  the  coast  of  Maine  in  the  barque 
“ White  Angel  ” for  several  years,  early  in  the  17th  century).  The  road 
now  leads  out  oh  Nantasket  Beach,  a line  of  hard  and  surf-beaten  white 
sand,  4 M.  long.  The  bathing  here  is  very  fine,  and  driving  is  easy  and 


24  Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


pleasant  at  low  tide.  At  the  south  end  of  the  beach  are  several  hotels. 
(*  Rockland  House,  — $ 4.50  per  day,  $ 25.00  per  week,  — a palatial  edi- 
fice, J M.  from  the  landing;  Atlantic  House,  50  to  60  guests,  — $3.00 
a day,  $15.00  to  $18.00  a week, — finely  situated  on  a bluff  near  the 
water.) 

This  part  of  the  beach  is  distant  § M.  from  the  steamboat  landing  (12 
to  13  M.  from  Boston),  and  2 M.  from  the  South  Shore  Railroad  (18  M. 
from  Boston).  Fine  views  are  obtained  from  the  bluffs ; the  harbor  islands 
in  the  W.,  a broad  expanse  of  ocean  to  the  E.,  and  at  night  11  coast- 
lights  may  be  seen,  extending  from  Minot’s  Ledge  to  Cape  Ann.  Parts 
of  Boston,  Lynn,  Nahant,  and  Quincy  may  be  seen  on  a clear  day. 

Steamers  for  Hull,  Nantasket,  and  Hingham  leave  Liverpool  Wharf, 
Boston,  twice  daily  in  summer. 

Hingham  is  a curious  old  village,  near  Nantasket,  and  S.  of  the  har- 
bor, which  was  settled  in  1635,  and  was  often  ravaged  during  the  In- 
dian wars.  Its  first  pastor  came  from  Hingham,  in  England,  and  gave 
its  name  to  the  struggling  colony.  Situated  amid  fine  coast-scenery,  but 
12  M.  (by  water)  from  Boston,  this  “ Marine  Old  Hadley  ” drew  many 
visitors,  and  its  large  hotel,  the  Old  Colony  House  (burned  in  Octo- 
ber, 1872)  was  well  patronized.  A quaint  edifice  on  the  main  st.  near 
the  Railroad  Station,  built  nearly  square,  with  the  roof  sloping  steeply 
up  on  4 sides  to  a balustraded  platform,  surmounted  by  a narrow-pointed 
belfry,  is  “the  oldest  church  in  Yankeedom.”  It  was  built  in  1681, 
for  the  Congregational  Society  of  Hingham,  who  still  use  it. 

Behind  the  church  is  the  * old  graveyard,  covering  a finely  terraced  hill,  and 
containing  hundreds  of  ancient  stones.  In  the  southern  part  is  a plain  and  grace- 
ful obelisk  of  granite,  on  which  are  inscribed  the  names  of  76  soldiers  of  Hing- 
ham who  died  in  the  war  for  the  Union.  On  the  highest  hill,  on  a mound 
surrounded  by  a circular  earthwork,  is  a tall  obelisk  of  granite  “ To  the  early 
settlers  of  Hingham.”  Elsewhere  rests,  in  an  unmarked  grave,  John  Albion  An- 
drew, the  great  war-governor  of  Massachusetts,  who,  during  the  battle-years 
1861-65,  did  more  than  any  other  man  to  raise,  equip,  -and  forward  to  the"  field 
the  immense  levies  of  troops  from  this  State.  He  was  distinguished  for  fervid 
eloquence,  great  executive  ability,  and  tender  provision  for  the  disabled  soldiers. 
He  died  in  1867.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  cemetery  is  the  tomb  of  Benjamin 
Lincoln,  a major-general  in  the  Continental  Army,  second  in  command  of  the 
Army  of  the  North  which  captured  Burgoyne,  commander  of  the  Army  of  the 
South,  1778-80,  repulsed  from  Savannah  and  Stono  Ferry.  After  enduring  a 
siege  of  6 weeks  at  Charleston  (spring  of  1780),  he  was  forced  to  surrender  to 
Sir  Henry  Clinton.  Having  been  exchanged,  he  commanded  the  centre  at  York- 
town,  and  was  Secretary  of  War,  1781  - 84.  He  died  at  Hingham,  his  birthplace 
(1733),  in  1810. 

Ebenezer  Gay,  pastor  of  Hingham,  1718-87,  delivered  the  famous  sermon 
called  the  “Old  Man’s  Calendar”  on  his  eighty-fifth  birthday.  W.  A.  Gay,  the 
artist,  born  at  Hingham  in  1821,  was  long  a disciple  of  Troyon,  of  Paris,  and  is 
now  celebrated  for  his  fine  paintings  of  coast-scenery  and  marine  life. 

Charlestown  ( Prescott  House)  is  a city  of  Middlesex  County,  N.  of 
Boston,  and  united  with  it  by  2 bridges  over  the  Charles  River.  Its  pop- 
ulation is  28,330.  Soon  after  crossing  the  river  a small  square  is  reached, 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2.  25 


where  extensive  domed  buildings  on  the  left  were  formerly  occupied  as 
the  Waverley  Hotel.  Near  this  is  the  City  Hall,  in  which  is  a fine  library 
and  reading-room.  Main  St.,  to  the  right,  leads  to  the  United  States 
Navy  Yard,  covering  over  100  acres,  and  separated  from  the  city  by  a 
heavy  stone-wall,  16  ft.  high.  A sea-wall  extends  along  the  water-front, 
broken  only  by  a few  wharves  and  a great  dry-dock,  built  of  hammered 
granite,  341  ft.  long  and  80  ft.  wide,  and  costing  nearly  $ 700,000. 
Various  construction-depots,  magazines  of  naval  stores,  barracks,  and 
work-shops  are  in  the  yard;  also  4 large  ship-houses,  and  a granite- 
built  rope-walk,  J M.  long.  In  one  of  the  ship-houses  is  the  old  line-of- 
battle-ship  “Virginia”  (designed  for  120  guns),  which  has  been  on  the 
stocks  for  nearly  half  a century. 

Charlestown  has  a handsome  soldiers’  monument, — on  a tall  pedestal,  a 
figure  of  America  crowning  representatives  of  the  Army  and  Navy,  who 
stand  below  her.  In  the  house  near  Bunker  Hill  Monument  is  a fine 
statue  of  Gen.  Joseph  Warren,  who  was  killed  on  the  Hill. 

On  Prison  Point  are  the  extensive  buildings  of  the  Massachusetts  State 
Prison,  of  solid  granite  and  iron,  finely  ventilated  and  warmed,  and  sup- 
plied with  chapels,  school-rooms,  hospitals,  &c.,  in  such  manner  as  to 
make  it  a model  prison.  The  convicts  are  kept  busily  employed  in  mak- 
ing furniture,  upholstery,  shoes,  whips,  stone  and  iron  work,  and  are 
under  perfect  discipline. 

Not  far  from  the  prison  is  an  ancient  cemetery,  where  a simple  and  mas- 
sive granite  shaft  has  been  erected  by  Harvard  alumni,  to  the  memory  of 
John  Harvard,  the  early  benefactor  of  the  University. 

The  principal  attraction  of  Charlestown  is  * Bunker  Hill  Monument, 
a lofty  obelisk  on  the  site  of  the  battle  of  Breed’s  Hill  (1775).  It  is  built 
of  90  courses  of  Quincy  granite,  is  221  ft.  in  height,  and  30  ft.  square 
at  the  base.  A spiral  flight  of  295  steps,  ranged  around  a hollow  cone, 
leads  to  a chamber  11  ft.  in  diameter,  with  windows  on  each  side. 
Above  is  the  apex-stone,  weighing  2J  tons.  (A  small  fee,  20  cts.,  is  charged 
for  admission.  Books  about  the  monument,  &c. , sold  in  the  porter’s  lodge). 

The  *view  from  the  top  is  glorious.  From  the  S.  E.  window  the  * 
Navy  Yard  is  seen,  with  all  its  manifold  activities,  — its  ship-houses, 
dry-dock,  rope-walk,  and  frigates.  Beyond  this  is  the  confluence  of  the 
Charles  and  Mystic  Rivers,  and  East  Boston ; above  which  is  Fort  War- 
ren at  George’s  Island  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor.  Forts  Winthrop 
and  Independence,  and  the  archipelago  of  variously  utilized  islands  which 
dot  the  harbor,  all  are  visible  from  this  point.  From  the  S.  W. 
window  is  seen  the  city  of  Boston,  with  Copp’s  Hill  nearest  on  the  1. 
and  the  spires  and  domes  of  its  church  and  state  buildings  rising  on  all 
sides.  The  great  network  of  the  northern  railroads  and  highways  crosses 
Charles  River  below,  while,  beyond  the  city,  the  southern  and  western 
2 


26 


Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


roads  emerge.  Farther  still,  on  the  r.,  is  S.  Boston,  and  over  it, 
Quincy,  Dorchester,  and  the  blue  hills  of  Milton.  Over  Boston  are  Rox- 
bury  and  Brookline,  and  directly  below  are  the  houses  of  Charlestown. 
From  the  N.  W.  window,  the  State  Prison,  Cambridge,  and  Brighton, 
the  McLean  Asylum,  the  Harvard  Observatory,  the  city  of  Somerville, 
Arlington,  and  Medford.  It  is  said  that,  in  very  clear  weather,  with  a 
strong  glass,  may  be  seen  Mt.  Wachusett  (over  Cambridge),  and  succes- 
sively to  the  r.,  Mt.  Monadnock,  Kearsarge,  and  the  White  Mts.  in 
New  Hampshire.  From  the  N.  E.,  Everett,  and  Revere  with  its  beach, 
the  city  of  Chelsea,  with  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  and,  over  it,  the 
city  of  Lynn.  Nahant  runs  into  the  sea  to  the  r. 

The  corner-stone  of  this  stately  monument  was  laid  in  1825  by  General  La 
Fayette,  on  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  battle.  It  was  completed  in  1842,  and 
dedicated  on  the  sixty-eighth  anniversary  of  the  battle,  in  the  presence  of  Presi- 
dent Tyler  and  his  cabinet,  and  with  an  oration  by  Daniel  Webster.  In  the  upper 
chamber  are  two  cannon,  named  “Hancock”  and  “Adams,”  each  inscribed, 
“ This  is  one  of  four  cannons  which  constituted  the  whole  train  of  field-artillery 
possessed  by  the  British  colonies  of  North  America  at  the  commencement  of  the 
war,  on  the  19th  of  April,  1775.  This  cannon  and  its  fellow,  belonging  to  a num- 
ber of  citizens  of  Boston,  were  used  in  many  engagements  during  the  war.  The 
other  two,  the  property  of  the  Government  of  Massachusetts,  were  taken  by  the 
enemy.” 

Battle  of  Bunker  Hill. 

“ In  their  ragged  regimentals 
Stood  the  old  Continentals, 

Yielding  not. 

"When  the  grenadiers  were  lunging, 

And  like  hail  fell  the  plunging 
Cannon-shot ; 

Where  the  files 
Of  the  isles 

From  the  smoky  night-encampment  bore  the  banner  of  the  rampant  unicorn, 

And  grummer,  grummer,  grummer,  rolled  the  roll  of  the  drummer  through  the  morn.” 

After  an  impressive  prayer  by  President  Langdon,  of  Harvard  College,  on  a 
starry  night  of  June,  1775,  Colonel  Prescott  led  a thousand  men  to  Bunker  Hill. 
His  force  was  composed  of  troops  from  Essex,  Middlesex,  and  Connecticut,  with 
Gridley’s  artillery.  His  orders  were  to  fortify  the  hill,  but  a council  of  officers  of 
the  detachment  changed  the  plan,  and  they  occupied  Breed’s  Hill,  as  much  nearer 
Boston  and  more  surely  commanding  the  roads  to  the  north.  The  work  was 
commenced  at  midnight,  under  the  supervision  of  General  Gridley,  an  old  veteran 
of  the  Louisbourg  and  Canadian  wars,  and  by  dawn  they  had  completed  a redoubt 
132  ft.  square  and  6 ft.  high.  The  frigates  in  Charles  ftiver  first  saw  it,  and 
opened  a tremendous  fire,  which  awoke  all  Boston.  The  batteries  on  Copp’s  Hill 
then  opened  fire,  and  at  noon  2,000  picked  men  from  the  British  garrison  crossed 
the  river.  The  New  England  flag  (blue,  with  St.  George’s  Cross  on  the  pine-tree 
emblem)  was  hoisted  over  the  redoubt,  and  the  1st  and  2d  New  Hampshire  rein- 
forced the  weary  provincials.  At  2 o’clock  2,000  more  soldiers  crossed  from  Bos- 
ton, and  soon  after,  after  a furious  cannonade  from  Copp’s  Hill  and  the  fleet,  the 
British  column  advanced.  Gen.  Putnam  ordered  the  Americans  to  hold  their 
fire  until  they  could  see  the  whites  of  the  assailants’  eyes  ; and  1500  silent  and 
determined  menVaited  till  that  appointed  time,  and  then  fired.  “Whole  platoons 
of  the  British  regulars  were  laid  upon  the  earth,  like  grass  by  the  mower’s  scythe. 
Other  deadly  volleys  followed,  and  the  enemy,  disconcerted,  broke,  and  fled 
toward  the  water.”  While  they  rallied,  the  Copp’s  Hill  guns  showered  hot  shot 
and  carcasses  on  Charlestown.  200  houses  soon  were  burning,  and  under  cover  of 
dense  masses  of  smoke  the  royal  forces  advanced  again.  The  volley  at  short 
range,  the  carnage,  and  the  flight  of  the  British,  was  repeated.  The  American 
ammunition  was  now  exhausted,  the  presence  of  floating  batteries  raking  Charles- 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2.  27 


town  Neck  prevented  either  reinforcements  or  fresh  supplies  from  reaching  them  ; 
and  the  British,  heavily  reinforced,  and  maddened  by  their  losses,  advanced  a 
third  time.  The  outworks,  swept  by  the  shot  from  the  fleet,  were  abandoned,  and 
when  the  grenadiers  rose  upon  the  parapet  of  the  redoubt,  they  were  received 
by  a shower  of  stones,  and  confronted  by  men  with  clubbed  muskets.  Soon  Put- 
nam ordered  a retreat,  which  was  covered  admirably  by  the  troops  of  New  Hamp- 
shire and  Connecticut.  But  the  reserves  on  Bunker  Hill,  the  rear-guard,  and  the 
shattered  garrison  from  Breed’s  Hill,  were  unequal  to  further  effort,  and  there 
ensued  a general  debandade  across  the  cannon-swept  Charlestown  Neck.  The  day 
was  ended  ; and  although  Howe  soon  moved  the  bulk  of  his  army  on  these  hills, 
which  he  strongly  fortified,  no  further  combats  were  seen  here.  In  the  battle  of 
the  17th  of  June,  the  Americans  lost  115  killed,  305  wounded,  and  30  prisoners  ; 
the  British  lost  226  killed,  828  wounded  (Gage’s  report).  400  houses  were  burnt 
in  Charlestown,  and  5 cannon  were  taken  on  Bunker  Hill.  During  the  retreat 
from  the  redoubt,  Putnam  swore  frightfully  at  his  men,  and  after  the  war,  sin- 
cerely confessing  it  to  the  church  of  which  he  was  a member,  he  added,  “ It  was 
almost  enough  to  make  an  angel  swear,  to  see  the  cowards  refuse  to  secure  a vic- 
tory so  nearly  won.”  Among  the  last  to  leave  the  hill  was  Warren,  and  ere  he 
had  gone  far  he  was  killed  by  a shot  in  the  head.  Joseph  Warren,  born  Roxbury, 
1740,  was  the  head  of  the  medical  profession  in  Boston,  and  a wise  and  patriotic 
leader  of  the  people.  He  was  the  President  of  the  Provincial  Congress,  a major- 
general  of  the  army,  and  Grand  Master  of  the  Masonic  Order  in  America.  “He 
fell  with  a numerous  band  of  kindred  spirits  — the  gray-haired  veteran,  the  strip- 
ling in  the  flower  of  youth  — who  had  stood  side  by  side  on  that  dreadful  day, 
and  fell  together,  like  the  beauty  of  Israel  in  their  high  places.”  — Everett. 

Chelsea  (Winnisimmet),  ( City  Hotel' ),  a city  of  18,547  inhabitants,  is 
connected  with  Boston  by  a steam  ferry  (If  M. ),  and  with  Charlestown 
by  a long  bridge  over  the  Mystic  River.  The  Naval  Hospital  and  the  U. 
S.  Marine  Hospital,  the  latter  a large  and  stately  building,  are  here.  Near 
the  Railroad  Station  is  a Soldiers’  Monument,  — a shaft  of  granite  with  a 
statue  of  a soldier  standing  at  ease  upon  its  summit.  Woodlawn  Ceme- 
tery is  about  2 M.  from  the  city,  and  is  approached  by  a graceful  ave- 
nue, leading  through  a lofty  Gothic  gateway.  The  Rock  Tower,  to  the 
right,  is  a rude  pile  of  boulders,  78  ft.  in  diameter  and  30  ft.  high, 
from  which  a pretty  view  is  obtained.  Netherwood  and  Woodside  Aves. 
form  beautiful  vistas,  with  the  quiet  grace  of  American  cemeteries  on 
every  hand.  Netherwood  Pond,  the  views  from  Chapel  and  Elm  Hills, 
and  the  curious  Ginko  trees,  are  worthy  of  attention. 

Chelsea  (Revere)  Beach. 

Horse-cars  from  Boston  hourly  in  summer.  The  Eastern  Railroad  runs  near 
the  shore,  with  stations  at  Revere  (1|  M.  off)  and  Oak  Grove  (1  M.).  Hotels. 
Atlantic  House  and  several  smaller,  near  the  horse-car  station  ; Revere  House, 
4 M.  north  ; Ocean  House,  on  Pine  Point,  2 M.  north  of  horse-car  station. 

Revere  Beach  is  about  5 M.  from  Boston,  and  is  much  visited  by 
the  citizens  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  It  is  a wide,  smooth,  hard,  sandy 
shore,  3 M.  long,  well  adapted  for  driving  or  walking.  Being  shel- 
tered by  Nahant,  which  lies  about  5 M.  off  shore,  and  by  Winthrop 
Bluffs  on  the  south,  it  has  but  a moderate  surf.  Pine  Point,  its  northern 
extremity,  faces  the  city  of  Lynn  and  the  openings  of  Saugus  River  into 
Lynn  Harbor. 


28  Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Lexington  and  Concord. 

The  former  village  is  reached  by  trains  on  the  Lexington  Branch  Railroad,  from 
the  Boston  and  Lowell  Depot,  in  40  to  50  minutes.  By  the  fall  of  1873  the  rail- 
road will  probably  be  extended  to  Concord.  At  present.  Concord  is  reached  by 
the  trains  of  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  in  1 hr. 

Lexington  ( Monument  House),  a quiet  and  pretty  village  12  to  15 
M.  N.  W.  of  Boston,  is  built  on  one  long  street,  terminating  on  the 
west  in  a broad  green,  on  which  is  a plain  monument,  more  solid  than 
graceful,  in  memory  of  8 men  killed  here  during  the  battle. 

Concord  ( Middlesex  Hotel),  near  the  tranquil  Concord  River,  and 
the  junction  of  the  Assabet  and  Sudbury  Rivers  (so-called),  is  a hand- 
some village  of  about  2,500  inhabitants,  and  about  20  M.  from  Boston. 
In  1635  Peter  Bulkley,  of  St.  John’s  College,  Cambridge,  and  21  years 
rector  of  Odell,  was  silenced  by  Archbishop  Laud,  and  fled  to  America. 
In  1636  he  purchased  of  the  Indians  a tract  of  land  at  Musketaquid,  and 
founded  the  town  and  church  of  Concord,  so-named  from  the  peaceful 
manner  of  its  acquisition.  Bulkley  wrote  some  Latin  poems  and  Puritan 
theological  theses,  and  “was  as  remarkable  for  benevolence  and  kind  deal- 
ing as  for  strict  virtue.” 

But  it  is  during  the  present  century  that  the  lives  of  three  of  the  foremost 
literary  men  of  America  have  made  Concord  famous.  Henry  D.  Thoreau  (H. 
U.,  1827),  an  eccentric  yet  profound  scholar  and  naturalist,  in  1845  built 
himself  a hut  on  the  shores  of  the  sequestered  Walden  Pond  (1  M.  S.  E.  of 
the  village),  where  he  led  a recluse  life,  raising  a few  vegetables,  and  occasion- 
ally surveying  or  carpentering  to  get  money  for  his  slight  expenses.  He  never 
voted,  never  entered  a church,  never  paid  a tax.  Profoundly  skilled  in  classic 
and  Oriental  literature,  and  an  ardent  naturalist,  his  chief  delight  was  to  make 
long  pedestrian  excursions  to  the  forests  and  lakes  and  ocean-shores  of  New 
England.  Of  himself  he  said,  “ I am  as  unfit  for  any  practical  purpose  as  gossa- 
mer is  for  ship-timber.”  “ Thoreau  dedicated  his  genius,  with  such  entire  love,  to 
the  fields,  hills,  and  waters  of  his  native  town,  that  he  made  them  known  and  in- 
teresting to  all.  He  grew  to  be  revered  and  admired  by  his  townsmen,  who  had 
at  first  known  him  only  as  an  oddity.”  — Emerson.  He  died  in  1860,  leaving  his 
great  work  unfinished,  and  his  only  remains  are  several  quaint  and  charming 
books  of  travel. 

Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  (H.  U.,  1821),  “the  sage  of  Concord,”  or,  as  Fredrika 
Bremer  calls  him,  “the  Sphinx  in  Concord,”  is  the  head  of  the  school  of 
transcendental  philosophy  in  America  and  in  the  wrorld.  Descended  from 
seven  generations  of  ministers,  and  himself  sometime  a minister,  in  early  life 
lie  joined,  and  since  has  led,  the  most  advanced  and  refined  school  of  modern 
transcendental  philosophy.  His  writings  are  “ distinguished  for  a singular  union 
of  poetic  imagination  with  practical  acuteness,”  and  also  by  a remarkable  pungency 
and  compressed  force.  During  his  visits  to  Europe  much  honor  has  been  shown 
him,  and  many  of  the  greatest  minds  of  the  century  have  visited  “the  pretty  little 
idyllian  city  of  Concord  ” (Bremer)  to  hold  interviews  with  him.  Thoreau,  G.  W. 
Curtis,  in  his  residence  at  Concord  in  1844-45,  and  Hawthorne  have  been  his 
friends  at  home,  (The  old  Emerson  homestead  was  burnt,  July  24,  1S72,  shortly 
after  which  the  philosopher  went  to  Europe  for  a long  absence.) 

Nathaniel  Hawthorne  (Bowdoin  College,  1825),  whose  exquisite  prose  composi- 
tion is  world-renowned,  lived  at  Concord  in  1843  - 46,  and  here  wrote  the  “ Mosses 
from  an  Old  Manse.”  (See  Salem,  Mass.) 

The  Battle  of  Concord  and  Lexington. 

At  midnight,  April  18,  1775,  General  Gage  sent  800  grenadiers  and  light  infantry 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2.  29 


to  destroy  the  military  stores  collected  by  the  Americans  at  Concord.  “ At  first 
the  whole  country  appeared  buried  in  a general  sleep,  ....  till  the  deep  tones 
of  a distant  churcli-bell  came  sweeping  down  the  valley  in  which  they  marched, 

ringing  peal  on  peal,  in  the  quick,  spirit-stirring  sounds  of  an  alarm Bell 

began  to  answer  bell  in  every  direction,  ....  fires  blazed  along  the  heights,  the 
bellowing  of  the  conchs  and  horns  mingled  with  the  rattling  of  the  muskets  and 
the  various  tones  of  the  bells  ” (Cooper),  and  when  the  troops  deployed  on  Lexing- 
ton Green,  at  dawn,  100  militia  men  confronted  them.  “ Disperse,  ye  rebels, 
throw  down  your  arms,  and  disperse  ! ” cried  the  British  commander,  Pitcairn.  A 
volley  from  the  light  infantry  broke  the  line  which  refused  to  obey  Pitcairn’s  or- 
der, and  under  the  smoke  of  the  first  shots  of  the  War  of  Independence  eight 
Americans  lay  dead  on  the  green.  Now  by  a rapid  march  the  invaders  occupied 
Concord,  6 M.  distant,  and  destroyed  such  of  the  military  stores  as  had  not 
been  removed.  Meanwhile,  400  minute-men  had  gathered  near  the  north  bridge, 
1 M.  from  the  Common,  and  soon  they  attacked  and  drove  away  3 companies 
of  light  infantry  detailed  to  guard  it,  upon  which  the  retreat  to  Boston  was 
ordered.  All  military  order  among  the  provincials  was  at  an  end  ; minute-men 
were  collecting  from  all  points  ; from  every  house,  barn,  and  stone-wall  guns 
were  fired  with  sure  aim  ; and  the  red  uniforms  of  dead  and  wounded  regulars 
strewed  the  long  road.  M.  E.  of  Lexington  church,  the  remnant  of  the  de- 
tachment was  reinforced  by  Lord  Percy,  with  3 regiments,  2 divisions  of  marines, 
and  a battery.  The  pitiless  provincials  worried  them  until  they  reached  Prospect 
Hill,  in  Cambridge,  where  700  men  of  Essex,  with  the  militia  of  Dorchester  and 
Roxbury,  stopped,  and  held  the  flower  of  the  British  army  until  Percy’s  artil- 
lery drove  them  from  the  field,  and  the  noble  Northumbrian  led  his  shattered 
columns  on  Bunker  Hill,  under  protection  of  the  fleet.  On  this  memorable  day, 
the  royal  forces  lost  65  killed,  180  wounded,  and  28  prisoners  ; while  the  Americans 
lost  59  killed,  39  wounded,  and  5 missing. 

Cambridge. 

W.  of  Boston  (horse-cars  from  Bowdoin  Sq.)  is  the  ancient  academic 
city  of  Cambridge,  on  the  Charles  River.  About  3J  M.  from  Boston  are 
the  spacious  grounds  and  buildings  of  Harvard  University. 

Cambridge  was  settled  shortly  after  Boston,  under  the  name  of  Newtown.  In 
1636,  the  legislature  of  Massachusetts  (then,  and  occasionally  now,  called  the 
General  Court)  voted  £ 400  for  the  establishment  of  a school  here.  In  1638  John 
Harvard,  the  young  pastor  of  Charlestown  (from  Emanuel  College,  in  Old  Cam- 
bridge,), died,  leaving  to  the  young  school  his  library  and  about  £ 800  in  money. 
Then  the  General  Court  advanced  the  school  into  a college,  and  named  it  Harvard, 
changing  also  the  name  Newtown  into  Cambridge,  in  memory  of  the  old  univer- 
sity town  where,  and  especially  at  Emanuel  College,  so  many  of  the  founders  of 
the  new  State  had  studied.  In  1640  Charlestown  Ferry  was  made  an  appanage 
of  the  College  ; in  1642  its  first  class  graduated  ; and  in  1650  the  “ President  and 
Fellows  of  Harvard  College  ” were  incorporated.  Endowments  and  gifts  now 
flowed  in  from  the  province  and  its  citizens,  and  the  young  college  became  the 
pride  of  New  England.  In  1696,  of  121  clergymen  in  the  eleven  counties  nearest 
to  Cambridge,  104  were  graduates  of  Harvard.  Many  of  the  political  leaders  of 
the  War  of  Independence  were  educated  here,  — Samuel  Adams  (class  of  1740), 
James  Otis  (1743),  Artemas  Ward,  first  commander  of  the  army  (1748),  John  Han- 
cock (1754),  Joseph  Warren  (1759).  In  May,  1769,  on  the  occupation  of  Boston 
by  royal  troops,  the  legislature  refused  to  sit  “ with  British  cannon  pointing  at 
their  doors,”  so  they  adjourned  to  the  college  buildings.  In  1775  the  students 
were  sent  home,  and  the  classic  halls  were  turned  into  barracks  for  the  Continen- 
tal soldiers.  The  library  and  apparatus  were  sent  to  Andover  and  Concord.  The 
headquarters  of  the  American  army  of  investment  was  near  the  College,  and  the 
army  numbered  16,000  men  in  June,  1775.  Of  these,  11,500  were  from  Massachu- 
setts, 2,300  from  Connecticut,  1,200  from  New  Hampshire,  and  1,000  from  Rhode 
Island.  ^ The  left  wing,  under  Ward,  consisting  of  15  Massachusetts  regiments  and 
Gridley’s  artillery,  lay  at  Cambridge.  Later,  Knox  brought  55  cannon  from  the 
Lake  Forts,  and  the  New  York  volunteers  and  Morgan’s  Virginia  riflemen  joined 


30  Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


the  camp.  The  10,000  royal  troops  in  Boston  were  environed  by  20  miles  of  can- 
tonments, stretching  from  the  Mystic  River  to  Roxbury.  Thomas,  with  4,000 
Massachusetts  troops,  and  4 companies  of  artillery,  held  the  Roxbury  lines  ; the 
Rhode  Island  men  were  at  Jamaica  Plain  with  Spencer’s  Connecticut  regiment. 
The  New  Hampshire  brigade  was  at  Medford,  and  Putnam,  with  a Connecticut 
brigade,  held  Charlestown  Neck  and  picketted  Bunker  Hill.  The  siege  was 
hardly  over,  and  the  College  in  order  once  more,  when  the  great  captive  army  of 
Burgoyne  was  led  to  Cambridge  (Nov.  19,  1777).  The  government  ordered  the 
college  to  be  vacated,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  British  and  Hessian  officers. 
But  the  collegiate  authorities,  feeling  that  enough  had  already  been  sacrificed  by 
them  in  the  cause  of  freedom,  sent  in  such  a spirited  protest  that  the  order  was 
reconsidered,  and  the  prisoners  encamped  on  Winter  and  Prospect  Hills  until 
1779,  when  they  were  sent  to  Charlottesville,  Virginia. 

In  1639  the  first  New  England  printing-press  was  set  up  here,  and  for  its 
first  works  printed  the  “ Freeman’s  Oath,”  “The  New  England  Alma- 
nac,” and  the  “Bay  Psalm  Book.”  At  present  the  vast  University  and 
Riverside  Presses  turn  out  hundreds  of  thousands  of  volumes  yearly. 

Margaret  Fuller,  Countess  D’Ossoli,  was  born  at  Cambridge,  1810.  A fine 
linguist  and  conversationalist,  she  became  an  enthusiastic  transcendentalist,  and, 
after  writing  several  books,  and  spending  some  time  in  Europe,  she  married  Count 
d’Ossoli,  but  was  wrecked  and  lost  on  the  New  Jersey  coast,  returning,  in  1850. 

Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  was  born  at  Cambridge,  1809.  A skilful  physician,  lec- 
turer, and  microscopist,  he  has  been  Professor  of  Anatomy  and  Physiology  in 
Harvard  University  since  1847,  and  has  found  time  to  write  many  pleasant  essays 
and  humorous  poems,  besides  two  or  three  novels  and  numerous  medical  lectures 
and  dissertations. 

James  Russell  Lowell  was  born  at  Cambridge,  in  1819.  After  writing  several 
volumes  of  poetry,  and  spending  some  years  in  Europe,  he  returned,  and  succeeded 
Mr.  Longfellow  as  Professor  of  Modern  Languages,  &c.,  in  Harvard  University. 
He  has  published  “The  Biglow  Papers  ” (two  series), — a political  satire  in  the 
New  England  vernacular  ; “ The  Cathedral,”  and  “ Under  the  Willows,”  his  later 
poems  ; and  several  volumes  of  prose. 

F.  H.  Hedge,  the  Unitarian  theologian,  Alfred  Lee,  Bishop  of  Delaware,  and 
Rear-Admiral  Charles  H.  Poor,  were  born  in  Cambridge. 

“ Harvard  College  was  founded  at  Cambridge  only  ninety  years  later  than  the 
greatest  and  wealthiest  college  of  our  Cambridge  in  Old  England.  Puritan  Har- 
vard is  the  sister  rather  than  the  daughter  of  our  own  Puritan  Emanuel.  Harvard 
himself,  and  Dunster,  the  first  President  of  Harvard,  were  among  the  earliest  of 
the  scholars  of  Emanuel.  . . . Our  English  universities  have  not  about  them  the 
classic  repose,  the  air  of  study,  which  belongs  to  Cambridge,  Massachusetts  ; our 
Cambridge  comes  nearest  to  her  daughter  town,  but  even  the  English  Cambridge 
has  a breathing  street  or  two,  and  a weekly  market-day,  while  Cambridge  in  New 
England  is  one  great  academic  grove,  buried  in  a philosophic  calm,  which  our 
universities  cannot  rival  as  long  as  men  resort  to  them  for  other  purposes  than 
work.”  — Sir  Charles  Dilke. 

Among  the  most  distinguished  of  the  New-England-born  alumni  of  Harvard 
may  be  named,  Increase  Mather  (class  of  1656),  Cotton  Mather  (1678),  John  Adams, 
second  President  of  the  United  States  (1755),  John  Quincy  Adams,  his  son,  sixth 
President  of  the  United  States  (1787),  Fisher  Ames  (1774),  W.  E.  Channing  (1798), 
Edward  Everett  (1811),  W.  H.  Prescott  (1814),  Jared  Sparks  and  J.  G.  Palfrey  (1815), 
Caleb  Cushing  and  George  Bancroft  (1817),  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  (1821),  C.  F. 
Adams  (1825),  O.  W.  Holmes  (1829),  Charles  Sumner  (1830),  Wendell  Phillips  and 
J.  L.  Motley  (1831),  H.  W.  Bellows  (1832),  R.  H.  Dana,  Jr.,  and  H.  D.  Thoreau 
(1837),  J.  R.  Lowell  (1838),  E.  E.  Hale  (1839). 

The  buildings  of  the  University  are  named  generally  in  honor  of  its 
benefactors.  The  small  brick  building  on  the  corner  near  the  horse-car 
station  contains  the  Law  Library  (13,000  volumes)  embracing  the  stand- 
ard works  on  this  subject  by  American,  English,  French,  and  German 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2.  31 


writers.  The  law-hall  and  the  professorship  were  founded  by  Nathan 
Dane,  an  eminent  Essex  County  jurist.  The  large  and  omate  edifice  next 
to  Dane  Hall  is  known  as  Matthews  Hall.  Beyond  this,  and  at  right 
angles  with  it,  is  Massachusetts  Hall,  an  ancient  building  which  has  been 
changed  into  two  large  rooms,  the  lower  of  which  is  occupied  as  a read- 
ing-room, and  is  surrounded  by  60  to  70  portraits  of  notable  New  Eng- 
landers of  the  last  century,  among  which  are  Samuel  Dexter,  Frotlning- 
ham ; John  Quincy  Adams,  Fisher  Ames,  Stuart;  Michael  Boylston, 
Thomas  Boylston,  President  Holyoke,  and  J ohn  Adams,  Copley. 

John  Singleton  Copley,  the  best  of  American  portrait-painters,  was  born  at 
Boston,  1737,  studied  at  Rome,  resided  at  London  1775-1813.  His  historical 
paintings,  of  which  “The  Death  of  the  Earl  of  Chatham”  was  the  most  famous, 
made  him  a Royal  Academician  in  1783.  His  son  was  made  Lord  Lyndhurst. 

It  is  singular  that  none  of  Washington  Allston’s  pictures  are  here.  This  artist, 
who  was  called  “the  American  Titian,”  and  was  famous  for  richly  colored  pictures 
on  religious  subjects,  after  spending  15  years  in  Europe,  established  his  studio 
in  Cambridge  in  1825,  and  here  remained  until  his  death  in  1843.  He  was  a South 
Carolinian. 

Beyond  Massachusetts  Hall  is  Harvard  Hall,  with  its  sober  ornaments 
and  belfry,  and  then  Hollis  and  Stoughton  Halls,  between  which,  and 
nearer  the  street  is  the  quaint  little  edifice  (said  to  have  been  built  by 
Lady  Holden’s  bomity)  which  was  long  used  as  a chapel,  and  was  built 
early  in  the  18th  century.  Across  the  upper  end  of  the  quadrangle 
stretches  the  plain  old  Holworthy  Hall,  back  of  which  is  the  Lawrence 
Scientific  School.  Turning  now  on  the  other  side,  the  first  building  is 
the  new,  lofty,  and  ornate  Thayer  Hall,  behind  which  is  the  romanesque 
Appleton  Chapel.  Beyond  Thayer  is  the  simple  and  substantial  Uni- 
versity Hall,  built  of  granite,  and  next  comes  the  modern  and  Mansard- 
roofed  Weld  Hall.  University  Hall  is  the  seat  of  the  University  gov- 
ernment, which  consists  of  the  President  and  six  Fellows,  with  a second 
branch  (Board  of  Overseers)  elected  by  the  alumni.  The  system  of 
elective  studies  and  of  special  series  of  lectures  is  superseding  the  old 
rigid  course  and  text-book  plan,  and  Harvard  is  accepting  the  style,  as 
well  as  gaining  the  power,  of  the  German  universities.  There  are  about 
1,200  men  in  the  various  departments  of  study,  with  45  professors  and 
many  tutors,  &c . F our  years’  study  procures  the  degree  of  B.  A. ; three 
years  covers  the  courses  in  the  Divinity  and  Medical  Schools,  and  two 
years  in  the  Law  School.  Beyond  Weld  Hall  the  fourth  side  of  the  quad- 
rangle is  occupied  by  the  noble  Boylston  Hall  (of  granite,  with  several 
collections  inside),  and  the  modern  Gray  Hall.  Opposite  the  wooden 
Wadsworth  Hall  is  the  Holyoke  House  (pertaining  to  the  college)  and 
nearly  opposite  Massachusetts  Hall  is  the  First. Church,  with  its  venerable 
graveyard.  Gore  Hall,  beyond  the  quadrangle,  contains  the  University 
Library.  It  is  a neat  building  of  Quincy  granite,  in  the  form  of  a Latin 
Cross,  and  in  the  14th-century  Gothic  style,  said  also  to  be  a sober  copy 
of  King’s  College  Chapel,  at  Old  Cambridge. 


32  Route  2. 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Inside  there  are  10  columns  on  each  side  of  a nave  112  ft.  long,  with  a groined 
roof  35  ft.  high.  About  130,000  volumes  are  kept  in  this  hall,  besides  "which  the 
University  has  about  70,000  volumes  in  8 other  libraries.  In  glass  cases,  through- 
out the  hall,  are  kept  many  literary  curiosities  : a MS.  Gvid  of  the  14th  century  ; 
letters  of  Washington  ; Aristotle,  in  black-letter  Latin  MS.  ; ancient  Greek  MSS. 
of  Hippocrates,  Gregory  Nazianzen,  &c.,  with  Evangelisteries,  Psalters,  &c.  ; old 
Hebrew  MS.  of  Esther  (in  roll)  ; the  Gospels  in  Latin,  8th  century  (oldest  MS.  in 
America) ; illuminated  Latin  missals  ; MS.  Koran  ; Sanscrit  and  Siamese  books 
in  leaves  ; 3 beautiful  Persian  MSS.  on  silk  paper ; book  printed  in  Mexico  City, 
1566  ; Rale’s  Dictionary  of  the  Abenaki  language,  in  his  own  writing ; Eliot’s 
Indian  Bible  ; Bay  Psalm-Book  (1640),  first  book  printed  in  America,  north  of 
Mexico  ; medals,  relics,  autographs,  &c.  Busts  of  distinguished  men  surround 
the  hall. 

Nearly  in  line  with  Gore  Hall  is  Appleton  Chapel,  recently  injured  by 
fire.  The  most  conspicuous  object  about  the  square  is  the  immense  tower 
of  the  * Memorial  Hall,  a stately  edifice  now  building,  whose  simple 
and  massive  architecture  contrasts  strongly  with  the  Renaissance  style 
of  the  other  new  buildings.  A beautiful  little  cloister,  at  one  ejid  of  the 
Memorial  Hall,  seems  like  a token  from  Old  Cambridge.  Within  this 
noble  building  are  to  be  held  the  Commencement  exercises  and  alumni 
dinners.  The  Hall  is  being  erected  by  the  alumni  as  a memorial  to  those 
of  their  number  who  fell  in  the  War  for  the  Union.  Near  by,  on  a 
so-called  Delta,  is  the  gymnasium,  an  octagonal  structure,  while  the 
Lawrence  Scientific  School  is  opposite  Holwortliy  Hall.  Beyond  Memo- 
rial Hall  are  the  buildings  occupied  by  the  Zoological  and  other  museums, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Divinity  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  Unitarian  Theological 
School  and  Library.  The  Episcopal  Divinity  School  is  near  the  beautiful 
little  church  of  St.  John.  The  Observatory  and  Botanical  Gardens  are 
out  on  Garden  St.,  beyond  the  State  Arsenal.  In  front  of  the  colleges, 
on  the  Green,  is  a monument,  erected  by  the  City,  in  memory  of  339 
officers  and  men  of  Cambridge  who  died  in  the  War  for  the  Union.  Far- 
ther on  is  the  new  and  elegant  Shepard  Memorial  Church,  erected  by  the 
Congregationalists  in  honor  of  Thomas  Shepard,  an  Emanuel  College  di- 
vine, who  was  pastor  at  Cambridge  from  1635  to  1649,  and  was  one  of  the 
founders  and  patrons  of  the  college.  <e  Its  location  at  Cambridge  was 
due  to  him.”  In  front  of  the  church  is  the  Washington  Elm,  probably 
300  years  old.  Near  it  the  old  Indian  councils  took  place,  and,  at  a later 
day,  the  town -meetings,  and  under  its  foliage,  July  3,  1775,  Washington 
. assumed  command  of  the  armies  of  America. 

A large,  old-style  house,  back  from  the  street,  and  nearly  opposite  Gore  Hall,  is 
called  the  “Bishop’s  Palace.”  It  was  built  in  1761-65  by  East  Apthorp,  an 
Anglican  Bostonian,  educated  at  Old  Cambridge,  who  was  sent  here  as  a mission- 
ary, and  hoped  to  be  appointed  Bishop  of  New  England.  But  the  hostility  of  the 
Puritan  divines  and  people  was  so  marked,  that  he  returned  to  England,  and  was 
given  a stall  in  St.  Paul’s.  In  1777,  Burgoyne  occupied  the  house  as  headquarters 
of  the  captive  Anglo-Hessian  army.  Near  Brattle  St.  is  the  house  where 
Baron  Riedesel,  commander  of  the  division  of  Brunswickers,  was  quartered.  The 
Baroness,  with  a diamond,  cut  her  autograph  here  on  a window-pane,  which  is 
still  preserved.  Near  Brattle  St.,  on  the  right,  is  a stately  old  colonial  mansion. 


See  page  20, 


THE  PRINCIPAL  PORTIONS  OF  THE  CEMETERY. 


1.  Entrance. 

2.  Chapel. 

3.  Spruce  Avenue. 

4.  Public  Lot. 

5.  Laurel  Hill. 

6.  Walnut  Avenue. 

7.  Mountain  Avenue. 

8.  Mount  Auburn  Tower. 

9.  Dell  Path. 

10.  Pine  Hill. 

11.  Central  Square, 

12.  Cedar  Hill. 

13.  Harvard  Hill. 


14.  Juniper  Hill. 

15.  Temple  Hill. 

16.  Rosemary  Path. 

17. *  Jasmine  Path. 

18.  Chestnut  Avenue. 

19.  Poplar  Avenue. 

20.  Auburn  Lake. 

21.  Lime  Avenue. 

22.  Larch  Avenue. 

23.  Halcyon  Lake. 

24.  Forest  Pond. 

25.  Central  Avenue. 

26.  Road  to  Fresh  Pond, 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


Route  2.  33 


above  two  terraces,  surrounded  by  broad  lawns  and  fine  elms.  Built  about  the 
middle  of  the  last  century,  the  house  was  deserted  by  its  Loyalist  owner  at  the 
outbreak  of  1775,  and  then  occupied  by  Washington  as  headquarters.  Here, 
through  the  long  winter  of  the  siege,  Lady  Washington  often  held  receptions. 
This  noble  estate  is  now  owned  by  the  poet  Longfellow. 

Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow,  born  in  Portland,  1807  (Bowdoin  College,  1825), 
spent  four  years  (1826  - 30)  in  Europe,  and  then  was  Professor  of  Modern  Languages 
at  Harvard  University  (1835-54).  Besides  several  prose  romances  and  many 
short  poems  of  great  power,  he  has  published  “Evangeline”  (1847,)  “The  Golden 
Legend  ” (1851),  “ Hiawatha  ” (1855),  atranslation  of  Dante’s  “ Divina  Commedia,” 
3 vols.  (1867-70),  “The  Divine  Tragedy”  (1871),  and  “Tales  of  a Wayside  Inn,” 
first  (1863)  and  second  series.  Mr.  Longfellow  is  perhaps  the  most  popular  of 
American  poets,  and  is  distinguished  as  a faithful  translator,  an  original  and  pro- 
foundly perceptive  poet,  and  an  admirer  of  the  picturesque  features  in  mediaeval 
European  history. 

Mount  Auburn. 

(Horse-cars  from  Harvard  Square  in  J M.  4 M.  distant  from  Boston. ) 

A large  tract  of  forest-covered  and  romantic  hills  on  the  hanks  of  the 
Charles  had  long  formed  a favorite  ramble  for  the  students  of  Harvard, 
until,  in  1831,  it  was  purchased  by  the  Horticultural  Society,  and  a portion 
of  it  consecrated  for  a cemetery,  with  imposing  ceremonies.  This  was 
the  pioneer  of  the  large  rural  cemeteries  of  America,  and  is  but  a few  years 
younger  than  Pere  la  Chaise,  at  Paris.  The  whole  tract  of  land  was  soon 
bought  in  from  the  Horticultural  Society,  and  large  additions  have  since 
been  made,  until  now  it  covers  125  acres.  The  name  “ Sweet  Auburn,” 
which  the  Harvard  men  had  bestowed  upon  it,  was  changed  to  Mount 
Auburn.  “ This  tract  is  beautifully  undulating  in  its  surface,  containing 
a number  of  bold  eminences,  steep  acclivities,  and  deep,  shadowy  valleys,” 
and  is  laid  out  with  broad,  curving  avenues  intersected  by  foot-paths. 
The  emblematic  iron  fence  which  bounds  the  front  is  provided  with  a mas- 
sive granite  entrance-gate  of  Egyptian  architecture,  60  ft.  long  and  25  ft. 
high,  on  whose  outside  is  carved,  “ Then  shall  the  dust  return  to  the  earth 
as  it  was,  and  the  spirit  shall  return  to  God  who  gave  it.”  From  the 
gate  Central  Ave.  runs  to  Pine  Hill,  which  overhangs  Consecration  Dell. 
The  chapel,  not  far  from  the  gate,  on  a hill  to  the  r.,  is  a handsome 
Gothic  edifice,  abounding  in  pinnacles,  and  furnished  with  stained  glass 
windows  from  Edinburgh.  Inside  the  chapel  are  four  noble  * statues  : 
Judge  Story,  by  W.  W.  Story  ; John  Winthrop,  the  first  colonial  gover- 
nor, by  R.  S.  Greenough  ; James  Otis,  the  leader  of  the  first  aggressions 
against  British  misrule,  by  Crawford ; and  John  Adams,  representing 
the  revolutionary  and  subsequent  constitutional  era,  by  Randolph  Rogers. 
On  Central  Ave.  is  a fine  statue  of  Hosea  Ballou,  an  eminent  Univer- 
1 salist  divine,  of  Boston,  not  far  from  the  statue  (in  a sitting  posture)  of 
Dr.  Bowditch,  the  mathematician  and  nautical  writer.  Fronting  the 
chapel  is  a majestic  * memorial  work  (by  Milmore)  representing  a colos- 
sal lion  couchant  with  a calm  and  heroic  female  head.  The  design  is 
taken  from  a work  executed  in  the  highest  perfection  of  Egyptian  art, 
2 * c 


34  Route  2.  ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 

and  is  a fine  personification  of  the  ancient  idea  of  the  mystic  “ one  who 
outlooks  stars  and  dreams  o’er  graves.”  Hannah  Adams,  the  historian  of 
the  Jews,  was  the  first  person  buried  in  the  cemetery,  and  her  humble 
monument  is  still  pointed  out.  Near  the  end  of  Central  Ave.  is  the 
monument  to  John  Murray,  the  founder  of  Universalism  in  America. 
Spurzheim  is  buried  near  the  Bowditch  monument.  Near  the  Ballou 
statue  on  Central  Ave.  is  the  monument  erected  to  W.  F.  Harnden, 
founder  of  the  express-business,  by  the  express-companies  of  the  United 
States.  Under  a canopy  of  granite  is  a large  stone  safe  with  bas-reliefs, 
supported  on  bronze  claws,  alongside  of  which  a marble  watch-dog  lies. 
On  Mount  Auburn,  the  highest  point  of  the  cemetery,  stands  a massive 
and  graceful  granite  tower,  from  whose  top  an  extensive  * view  is  enjoyed. 
The  rich  valley  of  the  Charles  is  in  full  sight,  from  the  villa-covered  heights 
of  Watertown  to  the  widenings  which  are  lined  by  the  palaces  on  the 
Back  Bay  at  Boston.  The  rural  roads  of  Brookline  are  in  the  S.,  and 
over  and  beyond  them  rise  the  high  hills  of  Milton.  In  the  E.  is  Cam- 
bridge and  the  ancient  walls  of  Harvard  University,  while  a succession 
of  bright  villages  stud  the  country  to  the  N.  and  W. 

For  the  rest,  the  tranquil  and  shaded  walks  of  the  cemetery  are  lined 
with  thousands  of  monuments,  of  every  form  and  style,  from  simple  tab- 
lets to  costly  and  beautiful  statues.  Pretty  lakelets  diversify  the  surface 
of  the  dells,  and  platoons  of  obelisks  rise  along  the  hills.  The  gateway, 
the  chapel,  sphinx,  and  tower,  are  the  principal  objects  to  be  seen. 
Hours  may  be  spent  in  pleasant  rambling  through  the  other  avenues, 
passing  the  graves  of  scores  of  local  celebrities  and  magnates  of  Massa- 
chusetts. If  the  visitor  wishes  to  know  how  to  do  Mount  Auburn  minute- 
ly, “ Dearborn’s  Guide  ” may  be  bought  at  the  gate. 

N.  of  Mount  Auburn  about  £ M.,  is  Fresh  Pond,  a pretty  sheet  of  blue 
water,  winding  under  the  shadow  of  wooded  hills,  with  villages  on  its 
banks.  The  Fresh  Pond  Hotel  is  favorably  situated  on  its  shore.  2 to 
3 M.  N.  is  Spy  Pond  (pleasant  hotel),  the  ice  from  whose  clear  and  spark- 
ling waters  is  much  used  in  Boston  during  the  summer  heats.  S.  W. 
of  Mount  Auburn,  on  the  banks  of  the  Charles,  is  the  United  States  Arse- 
nal, covering  40  acres,  where  great  amounts  of  munitions  of  war  are  stored. 
About  1 M.  beyond,  also  on  the  river,  is  the  village  of  Watertown,  8 M. 
from  Boston,  on  the  Fitchburg  Railroad.  Early  in  the  17th  century  a 
nomadic  church  from  this  place  founded  Wethersfield,  Conn.  In  1643 
Massachusetts  sent  four  Puritan  missionaries  to  convert  Anglican  Vir- 
ginia. The  Cavaliers  drove  them  off,  and  Knowles,  the  Watertown  pas- 
tor, went  to  England,  and  preached  in  Bristol  Cathedral  several  years. 
John  Sherman,  pastor  here  1647-85,  bears  on  his  tombstone, 

“Tn  Sherman’s  lowly  grave  are  lain 
The  heart  of  Paul,  and  Euclid’s  brain.” 


ENVIRONS  OF  BOSTON. 


R,oute  2.  35 


Harriet  G.  Hosmer,  the  foremost  of  female  sculp  tors,  was  born  at  "Watertown 
in  1830.  After  long  anatomical  studies,  she  went  to  Rome  in  1852,  and  has  since 
lived  there.  Most  of  her  works  are  retained  in  Italy  and  England.  Her  most  re- 
markable pieces  are  “Zenobia  in  Chains,”  “The  Sleeping  Faun,”  “Puck,”  and 
“ Beatrice  Cenci.” 

S.  of  Watertown  is  the  town  of  Newton,  with  several  villages,  in- 
habited mostly  by  men  doing  business  in  Boston.  Brighton  ( Cattle-Fair 
Hotel , Brighton  Hotel,  Riverside,  &c.),  E.  of  Newton,  has  the  largest 
cattle-market  in  New  England.  The  day  of  market  is  Wednesday,  when 
Brighton  presents  a lively  sight. 

S.  E.  of  Brighton  is  the  town  of  Brookline,  famous  for  the  suburban 
residences  of  Boston  merchants.  Near  the  station  of  the  New  York  and 
New  England  Railroad  is  the  principal  village,  with  the  ornate  and  attrac- 
tive stone  town-house,  near  which  is  a neat  public-library  building.  Within 
this  town  is  Brookline  Reservoir,  with  a capacity  of  120,000,000  gallons  of 
water.  Here  terminates  the  long  and  sinuous  brick  culvert,  running  from 
Lake  Cochituate,  in  Natick,  which  is  here  supplemented  by  iron  mains, 
which  carry  the  water  into  Boston.  1 M.  distant  is  the  great  Chest- 
nut Hill  Reservoir  (5  M.  from  Boston  City  Hall),  with  a capacity  of 
800,000,000  gallons.  The  most  popular  drive  about  Boston  is  that  to 
and  around  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir.  Jamaica  Pond,  near  the  village 
of  Jamaica  Plain,  and  E.  of  Brookline,  gave  the  first  water-supply  to 
Boston.  From  1795  to  1840  it  was  carried  through  the  city  in  hollow 
pine  logs.  In  1851  this  was  stopped,  and  now  villas  and  immense  ice- 
houses line  the  shores.  In  Jamaica  Plain  (where  encamped  the  Rhode 
Island  forces,  the  best  equipped  and  disciplined  in  the  army,  in  1775-76), 
is  a fine  monument  to  the  soldiers  of  West  Roxbury  who  w^ere  killed  in 
the  War  for  the  Union.  § M.  from  this  village  is  the  large  cemetery 
of  Forest  Hills.  (Horse-cars  to  and  from  Boston,  also  Providence 
Railroad.)  It  is  entered  by  a large  and  elegant  turreted  Gothic  gate- 
way of  stone,  bearing  the  inscriptions,  u I am  the  Resurrection  and  the 
Life,”  and,  “ He  that  keepeth  thee  wall  not  slumber.”  Near  the  gateway 
to  the  1.  is  the  finest  receiving -tomb  in  New  England,  with  a Gothic 
portico  of  granite,  of  imposing  size  and  form.  On  Mount  Warren  Gen. 
Joseph  Warren  is  buried  ; on  Mount  Dearborn,  Gen.  H.  A.  S.  Dearborn. 
This  cemetery  is  larger  and  plainer  than  Mount  Auburn,  and  is  mainly 
notable  for  its  air  of  rustic  naturalness.  Consecration  Hill  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  hills  of  Milton  and  the  fair  Lake  Hibiscus.  In  the  S. 
part  is  a monument  11  Erected  by  the  City  of  Roxbury  in  honor  of  her 
soldiers  who  died  for  their  country  in  the  Rebellion  of  1861  to  ’65.”  A 
bronze  soldier,  of  heroic  size,  stands  at  ease  on  a granite  pedestal,  and  on  the 
inner  granite  tablets  of  the  wall,  about  the  lot,  are  the  names  of  many  sol- 
diers in  letters  of  gold.  1 M.  from  Forest  Hills,  and  a like  distance 
from  Mattapan,  on  the  New  York  & New  England  Railroad,  is  the  cemetery 


36  Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


of  Mount  Hope.  This  is  in  Dorchester,  an  ancient  town  which  was  united 
with  Boston  in  1870.  Over  its  extensive  area  (which  is  bounded  on  one 
side  by  the  Bay)  are  scattered  several  villages  and  hundreds  of  country 
residences.  The  natural  scenery  is  picturesque,  and  is  diversified  by  hills 
and  forests.  At  Meeting-House  Hill  is  the  old  church,  with  a soldier’s 
monument  on  the  green  before  it.  At  Grove  Hall  (horse-cars  from  the  Tre- 
mont  House  or  Temple  PL),  amid  ample  grounds,  are  the  handsome 
buildings  of  the  Consumptives’  Home,  an  institution  founded  by  Dr. 
Cullis  in  1862,  to  receive  and  relieve  persons  afflicted  with  the  scourge  of 
New  England.  It  is  supported  (like  the  Bristol  Orphanage),  by  unso- 
licited donations  in  answer  to  prayer  to  the  Divine  Guardian,  and  the 
invalids  are  “freely  received  in  the  name  of  the  Lord.” 

Roxbury  (. Norfolk  House,  a large  and  comfortable  old  hotel,  on  Eliot 
Square).  Horse-cars  from  Park-St.  Church  to  Eliot  Sq.,  &c. 

Roxbury,  an  ancient  city,  almost  coeval  with  Boston,  was  united  with 
that  city  in  1868.  In  1775  the  Rhode  Island  forces  built  here  that  power- 
ful fort  which  Washington  pronounced  the  best  in  the  siege-lines,  and 
which  seriously  galled  the  Royalists  in  Boston.  Upon  the  hill  occupied 
by  this  fort  is  now  the  stand-pipe  of  the  water- works,  where  the  Cochi- 
tuate  water  is  forced  up  through  a boiler-iron  tub.e  to  a height  of  240  ft. 
above  tide-marsh  level,  and  hence  supplies  the  highest  floors  in  the  city. 
The  tower  is  a lofty  and  very  graceful  structure,  with  a fine  view  from  the 
summit,  which,  however,  is  usually  closed.  Eliot  Sq.  is  the  central  point 
in  Roxbury,  and  here  is  the  building  of  the  first  (Unitarian)  church,  the 
society  to  which  Eliot  preached  in  the  Puritan  era.  For  the  rest,  the 
hilly  streets  of  Roxbury  are  made  beautiful  by  the  villas  of  the  city 
merchants  and  by  several  pretty  churches,  of  which  the  venerable  St. 
James’  Church,  with  its  massive  Saxon  tower,  is  most  attractive. 

Besides  General  Warren,  who  died  on  Bunker  Hill,  there  were  also  horn  at  Rox- 
bury Major-General  Heath,  of  the  Continental  Army,  and  Joseph  Dudley,  gov- 
ernor of  Massachusetts,  1702-15,  while  Thomas  Dudley,  long  time  governor,  and 
major-general  between  1630-53,  had  his  estates  and  mansion  here. 

John  Eliot,  “the  Apostle  to  the  Indians,”  was  pastor  of  the  church  in  “Rocks- 
bury  ” from  1632  to  1690.  Firmly  believing  that  the  Indians  were  descended  from 
the  ten  lost  tribes  of  Israel,  he  made  every  effort  for  their  conversion.  Acquiring 
their  language,  he  translated  into  it  the  Bible  (1663),  catechism,  Baxter’s  Call,  &c., 
and  preached  frequently  to  those  villages  of  “praying  Indians  which  he  estab- 
lished and  protected  through  the  war  of  1675  - 76.  Utterly  improvident  in  his 
charities,  he  would  sometimes  give  away  his  whole  salary  on  the  day  of  its  re- 
ceipt, and  it  was  only  by  Mrs.  Eliot’s  care  and  economy  that  his  four  sons  were 
educated  at  Harvard,  and  were  ranked  afterwards  ‘ with  the  best  preachers  of  their 
generation.’  ” When  the  old  hero  had  become  helpless,  the  church  continued  his 
salary  several  years,  until  his  death. 


3.  Boston  to  New  York. 

Via  Old  Colony  Railroad  and  Fall  River  steamers  in  10  to  12  hrs.,  leaving  Bos- 
ton at  4.30  or  5.30  P.  M.  Fare,  $5.  The  railroad  station  is  on  the  comer  of 
Kneeland  and  South  Sts.  (PI.  36).  t — 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK.  Route  3.  37 

The  train  soon  crosses  Fort  Point  Channel,  and  runs  through  S.  Bos- 
ton and  Dorchester. 

Until  Neponset  (5  M.  out)  is  passed,  the  road  runs  through  the  south- 
ern villages  of  the  Dorchester  district  of  Boston.  The  Neponset  River  is 
crossed,  and  then  comes  Quincy  ( Hancock  House , $ 2),  a large  agricultural 
town,  much  of  whose  land  is  in  the  estates  of  the  illustrious  families  of 
Adams  and  Quincy.  In  the  Adams  Temple,  a plain  granite  church  oppo- 
site the  fine  town-hall,  are  monuments  to  the  Adamses,  while  beneath  the 
church  the  two  Presidents  of  that  name  are  buried.  A handsome  granite 
shaft,  with  appropriate  symbols,  was  raised  in  1868  in  memory  of  113 
soldiers  of  Quincy  who  died  in  the  War  for  the  Union.  About  J M.  from 
the  Hancock  House  is  the  plain  old  mansion  of  the  Adams  family,  the 
Quincy  House  being  1 M.  beyond.  Squantum  Point  (Old  Squantum  House), 
between  Quincy  and  Dorchester  Bays,  was  the  home  of  Chickatabut, 
Sachem  of  Massachusetts,  and  of  Squantum,  the  firm  friend  of  the  Pil- 
grims, who,  when  dying,  desired  Governor  Bradford  to  pray  for  him  “ that 
he  might  goto  the  Englishman’s  God  in  heaven.”  Squantum  Point  is  con- 
nected with  Boston  by  steamers  (in  summer),  and  is  famous  for  its  chow- 
ders, reviving  the  memory  of  the  olden  time  when,  for  scores  of  years,  the 
Bostonians  met  here  annually  for  a “Pilgrim  Feast.”  Hough’s  Neck 
( Great  Hill  House),  not  far  from  Quincy,  projects  into  Boston  Harbor,  be- 
tween Quincy  and  Weymouth  Bays.  W.  of  the  village  are  the  high  hills 
of  Quincy  and  Milton,  whence  is  obtained  that  excellent  sienitic  granite 
which  is  used  for  permanent  works  in  nearly  every  American  city.  This 
range  is  several  miles  long  and,  in  places,  600  ft.  high,  and  is  nearly  a 
solid  mass  of  pure  granite.  The  first  American  railway  was  operated  here 
in  1826,  when  horses  drew  the  stone  on  cars  over  wide  wooden  tram- ways, 
from  the  quarry  to  the  river  (3  M.).  Each  horse  drew  20  tons  of  granite 
besides  the  car. 

In  1844,  100,000  tons  were  quarried  here  by  800  men,  under  20  com- 
panies. At  present  the  works  are  carried  on  on  a much  larger  scale. 

John  Adams,  born  Quincy,  1756,  was  a firm  opponent  of  the  Stamp  Act,  de- 
fender of  Captain  Preston  and  his  soldiers  in  the  so-called  “ Boston  Massacre  ” 
trial,  and  Congressman,  1774-77.  In  1776,  as  leader  of  the  committee  on  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  he  fought  the  Declaration  through  Congress  in  a 
three  days’  debate.  In  1778,  1779,  and  1782,  he  visited  Paris  on  a special  mis- 
sion, and  in  1782  was  chosen  ambassador  to  Holland.  In  1785-88  he  was  minister 
to  England.  He  was  the  first  Vice-President,  and  in  1796  was  elected  President 
by  the  Federalists,  defeating  Jefferson,  the  Republican  candidate,  and  succeeding 
Washington.  From  1801  to  1826  he  lived  on  his  estate  in  Quincy,  and  died  on 
the  same  day  as  Jefferson,  — July  4,  1826,  the  50th  anniversary  of  the  Declaration 
of  Independence. 

John  Quincy  Adams,  son  of  John  Adams,  born  Quincy,  1767.  He  remained 
in  Europe  most  of  the  time  between  1778  and  1785,  then  graduated  at  Har- 
vard, and  became  a lawyer  and  publicist.  He  was  successively  minister  to  Hol- 
land, England,  and  Prussia,  1794  - 1801.  A United  States  senator  1803  - 8 ; in  1809 
he  became  minister  to  Russia,  and  later  was  appointed  minister  to  England.  Secre- 
tary of  State,  1817  - 25,  in  the  latter  year  he  was  elected  President  of  the  United  States 


38  Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


(the  6th).  From  1831  to  1848  he  was  in  Congress,  and  died  suddenly  in  the 
Capitol  (1848),  his  last  words  being,  “ This  is  the  last  of  earth  ; I am  content.” 
Under  his  influence  (as  Secretary  of  State  or  President)  great  national  works  were 
carried  on  ; Florida  was  added  to  the  Union  ; and  the  South  American  republics 
were  recognized.  An  opponent  of  the  extension  of  slavery,  and  a powerful  advo- 
cate of  the  right  of  petition,  his  powers  continued  until  the  last,  and  won  for  him 
the  title  of  “the  Old  Man  Eloquent.” 

Charles  Francis  Adams,  his  son,  was  born  in  Boston  in  1807,  and  long  lived  in 
Europe.  He  was  one  of  the  founders  of  the  present  Republican  party,  was  some- 
time a Congressman,  and  in  1861  received  the  hereditary  office  of  minister  to 
England.  He  held  this  position  until  1868,  — an  arduous  duty,  since,  during  this 
time,  the  (unofficial  but  efficient)  English  sympathy  with  the  Rebel  States  re- 
quired sleepless  vigilance  on  his  part.  In  1872  he  was  one  of  the  commissioners 
to  Geneva  (for  the  settlement  of  the  “Alabama”  trouble),  and  conducted  his  part 
of  the  work  with  great  skill. 

John  Hancock,  born  Quincy,  1737,  became  a wealthy  Boston  merchant,  and 
early  opposed  the  aggressions  of  Parliament,  so  that  he  and  Samuel  Adams  alone 
were  excepted  from  the  general  pardon  which  General  Gage  offered  to  the 
Americans.  Sometime  President  of  the  Provincial  Congress,  in  1775  he  was 
President  of  the  Continental  Congress,  and  was  the  first  to  sign  the  Declaration 
of  Independence.  Later  he  became  an  officer  in  the  militia,  and  was  governor  of 
Massachusetts  1780-85,  and  1787-93. 

This  district  was  first  settled  by  Weston’s  company  (1622),  and  Wollaston’s 
(1625),  at  a place  called  Merry  Mount,  where  their  conduct  was  so  opposed  to 
the  principles  of  the  Pilgrims  that  Miles  gtandish  marched  from  Plymouth  against 
these  jovial  Episcopalians,  and  sent  their  chiefs  captive  to  England.  In  1630 
the  Plymouth  forces  made  another  damaging-  attack  on  Merry  Mount.  Thomas 
Morton,  of  this  colony,  who  was  twice  banished  to  England,  and  once  imprisoned 
for  one  year  by  the  Plymouth  government,  wrote  the  “ New  English  Canaan,”  in 
which  he  gives  the  following  account  of  the  aborigines:  “The  Indians  maybe 
rather  accompted  as  living  richly,  wanting  nothing  that  is  needful ; and  to  be 
commended  for  leading  a contented  life,  the  younger  being  ruled  by  the  elder,  and 
the  elder  ruled  by  the  Powahs,  and  the  Powahs  are  ruled  by  the  Devill,  and  then 
you  may  imagine  what  good  rule  is  like  to  be  amongst  them.”  This  curiously 
agrees  with  Cotton  Mather’s  theory  that  “the  Indians  are  under  the  special  pro- 
tection of  the  Devill.” 

The  next  station  is  Braintree  (village  not  near  railroad),  an  ancient 
farming  town.  This  is  the  junction  of  the  South  Shore  Railroad  (see 
Route  4).  At  S.  Braintree,  2 M.  farther  on,  the  Plymouth  Branch  Rail- 
road diverges  to  the  E. 

Stations,  Randolph,  Stoughton,  Ponkapaug  (Briggs’  Hotel),  shoe-man- 
ufacturing towns.  Stations,  N.  Easton,  Easton,  Raynham,  where  the 
Leonard  brothers  set  up  the  first  forge  in  America,  in  1652. 

Taunton  (City  Hotel,  $ 3 a day,  on  the  Green)  was  founded  by  Miss 
Elizabeth  Pool,  a pious  Puritan  lady,  of  Taunton,  in  Somersetshire.  The 
settlement  was  on  the  territory  of  Cohannet,  and  King  Philip  was  friendly 
to  the  Tauntonians  until  midsummer  of  1676,  when  he  attacked  the  place, 
and  was  driven  off  and  followed  sharply  until  he  was  killed.  In  1810 
there  were  but  50  houses  here,  but  the  water-power  of  the  river  soon 
induced  the  location  of  factories,  until  at  the  present  time  it  is  a large 
manufacturing  city,  with  18,630  inhabitants.  Mason’s  Locomotive  Works 
cover  10  acres  and  employ  800  men,  and  the  works  of  the  Taunton  Car  Co. 
are  also  extensive.  The  Tack  Companies  make  700  varieties,  from  a heavy 
boat-nail  down  to  microscopic  tacks  weighing  4,000  to  the  ounce.  In 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  3.  39 


1871, 18,000,000  bricks  were  made  here.  The  Taunton  Copper  Co.  covers 
15  acres  with  their  buildings,  and  works  up  3,000,000  or  4,000,000  pounds 
of  copper  yearly.  There  are  also  11  foundries,  and  manufactories  of 
screws,  stove-linings,  and  lead-works,  large  cotton-mills,  and  a famous 
manufactory  of  Britannia  ware.  With  all  this,  the  city  is  clean  and  or- 
derly, and  clusters  around  the  central  square  called  Taunton  Green. 
There  are  19  churches,  of  which  St.  Mary’s  (Catholic)  on  Broadway,  St. 
Thomas  (Episcopal),  and  the  First  Unitarian,  on  Church  Green,  are 
fine  stone  structures.  The  latter  is  a large,  rambling,  Saxon-towered 
church,  which  looks  like  some  secluded  parish-church  of  Merrie  England 
which  was  built  before  the  Conquest.  The  City  Hall  fronts  on  Church 
Green,  and  the  Public  Library  is  next  to  the  rude  stone  church  (Congrega- 
tional) on  Broadway.  The  extensive  buildings  of  the  State  Lunatic  Asy- 
lum are  near  Taunton  Green,  surrounded  by  pleasant  grounds.  The 
Green  is  about  lj  M.  from  the  Old  Colony  Station. 

Stations,  Weir  Junction , Weir,  N.  Dighton , Dighton.  Near  the  latter 
place,  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  the  famous  Dighton  Rock,  — a long 
mass  of  granite  with  rude  sculptures  and  inscriptions  upon  it  (copied  and 
published  in  the  Antiquitates  Americans,  Copenhagen),  which  some  schol- 
ars refer  to  the  Norsemen  in  the  11th  century,  while  President  Stiles 
speaks  of  “the  Phoenicians,  who  charged  the  Dighton  Rock,  and  other 
rocks  in  Narragansett  Bay,  with  Punic  inscriptions  which  remain  to  this 
day.”  It  is  said  that  near  this  place  a skeleton  was  found  (in  1834)  with 
a brazen  belt  and  breastplate,  which  is  probably  the  same  which  inspired 
Longfellow’s  fine  poem,  “The  Skeleton  in  Armor.”  Station  Somerset , then 

Fall  River  ( City  Hotel , Mount  Hope  Hotel,  Union  House),  an  ener- 
getic and  growing  city,  which  enjoys  a rare  combination  of  great  water- 
power on  the  margin  of  navigable  waters . The  river  rises  in  the  Watuppa 
Ponds  on  the  highlands  2 M.  E.  of  the  city,  and  falls  136  ft.  in  less 
than  half  a mile.  Along  this  incline  immense  factories  are  drawn  up  like 
platoons  in  a marching  regiment,  built  across  the  stream  and  resting  on 
the  granitic  banks  on  either  side.  Over  $ 10,000,000  are  invested  in  these 
works,  and  10,000  persons  are  employed  in  them.  The  great  article  of 
manufacture  is  cotton  cloth,  and  more  spindles  are  here  engaged  upon 
that  work  than  in  any  other  city  in  America.  Most  of  the  mills  are  now 
run  by  steam-power.  Large  quarries  of  granite  are  worked  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  city,  and  many  of  its  edifices,  including  some  of  the  factories, 
two  or  three  churches,  and  the  City  Hall,  are  built  of  that  material. 
The  city  is  compactly  built,  and  fronts  on  Mount  Hope  Bay,  across  which 
Mount  Hope  looms  into  view.  On  South  and  North  Main  Sts.  are  the 
principal  churches,  the  City  Hall,  Post  Office,  and  hotels,  and  from  the 
City  Hall  a group  of  parallel  factories  stretches  westward  and  downward 
to  the  Bay.  Fall  River  was  formerly  divided  by  the  Rhode  Island  line, 


40  Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


but  a change  of  boundary,  ceding  to  that  State  lands  about  Pawtucket, 
&c.,  secured  to  Massachusetts  all  of  Fall  River,  which  is  still  called  the 
“ Border  City.”  Its  population  in  1870  was  26,768. 

The  eastern  and  western  divisions  of  the  Old  Colony  Railroad  unite 
near  Fall  River,  run  down  through  the  town  of  Tiverton,  and  cross  a 
narrow  strait  at  Bristol  Ferry  to  Rhode  Island.  The  track  runs  down  the 
western  shore,  and  ends  at  Newport,  in  19  M.  from  Fall  River.  The 
Fall  River,  Warren,  and  Providence  Railroad  runs  N.  W.  from  Fall  River 
to  Providence. 

The  palatial  steamers,  leaving  Fall  River  in  the  early  evening,  make 
their  first  stop  at 

Newport. 

Hotels.  — Ocean  House,  Atlantic  House,  Perry  House,  Aquidneck  House, 
$3.50  a day;  $21  a week;  United  States,  Park,  Touro.  The  Cliff  House  and 
Cottages  are  near  the  First  Beach ; the  foreign  ministers  and  some  European 
visitors  dwell  in  seclusion  at  Perrier’s.  Boarding-houses  and  cottages  are  numer- 
us,  and  frequently  offer  far  more  quiet  and  restfulness  than  the  hotels,  together 
with  less  expense. 

Reading-rooms.  — At  the  Redwood  Library ; at  the  Free  Library,  on 
Thames  Street  ; also  at  the  Club-House  (private),  corner  Bellevue  Avenue 
and  Church  Street. 

Chur  dies.  — Baptist,  on  Spring,  Farewell,  and  Clark  Streets;  Catholic,  St. 
Mary’s,  Spring  St.  ; Congregationalist,  Spring  St.  ; Methodist  Episcopal,  Marl- 
boro St.,  Thames  St.  ; Episcopal,  Trinity,  Church  St.  ; Zion,  Emmanuel,  All 
Saints  (Dr.  Potter),  Beach  St.  ; Unitarian,  Mill  St. 

Carriages  and  saddle-horses  may  be  obtained  at  the  Atlantic  House  stables. 
Downing  St.  L.  D.  Davis,  No.  13  Church  St.,  attends  to  the  rental  of  the  Cliff 
Cottages  and  others. 

Bathing,  on  First  Beach.  During  the  hours  when  the  white  flag  floats  bath- 
ing in  costume  is  obligatory.  While  the  red  flag  is  displayed,  the  beach  is  re- 
served for  gentlemen. 

Stages  run  to  First  Beach  and  other  points  at  regular  hours. 

Steamboats  run  to  Rocky  Point  and  Providence  four  times  daily  (in  summer), 
excursion  tickets,  75c.  ; to  Wickford  (connecting  with  Shore  Line  R.  R.  for  New 
York),  3 times  daily ; to  Narragansett  Pier,  3 times  daily.  The  magnificent 
steamers  of  the  Fall  River  Line  to  New  York  touch  at  Newport  every  evening  on 
their  way  to  New  York  (fare  $4). 

Railroads. — The  Old  Colony,  to  Boston,  67  miles,  fare,  $2.  Via  Wickford 
(by  steam-ferry)  and  Shore  Line  to  New  York,  180  miles. 

The  harbor  of  Newport  was  first  visited  (during  the  historic  epoch)  by  Verraz- 
zani,  a noble  Florentine,  who  was  sent  with  the  frigate  Dauphin,  by  King  Francis 
I.  of  France,  to  explore  the  American  coast.  He  remained  two  weeks  here,  re- 
fitting his  ship,  resting  his  men,  and  preparing  reports  for  his  royal  master.  The 
Dutch  and  English  explorers  visited  the  place  occasionally,  until  in  1639  the  settle- 
ment was  made  by  exiled  dissenters  from  the  State  church  of  Puritan  land.  These 
embraced  Baptists,  Antinomians,  and  many  Quakers,  and  Rhode  Island  had  such 
a consequent  air  of  heterodoxy  and  irregularity  about  it  that  it  was  excluded  from 
the  league  of  the  United  Colonies,  although  it  had  received  a royal  charter  in 
1665.  So  late  as  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  President  Dwight  attrib- 
uted the  laxity  of  morals  in  Stonington  to  “its  nearness  to  Rhode  Island.”  So 
the  little  colony  drew  in  its  outlying  settlements,  fortified  Providence,  and  main- 
tained armed  vessels  cruising  about  Rhode  Island  throughout  King  Philip’s  War, 
so  that  no  hostile  Indian  landed  on  the  shores  of  the  “ Isle  of  Peace.” 

Anawan,  the  chief  captain  of  King  Philip,  and  60  of  his  bravest  warriors,  sur-’ 
rendered  to  Captain  Church  after  the  death  of  Philip,  being  promised  amnesty. 
The  broken-hearted  chief  delivered  up  his  sovereign’s  rude  regalia,  and  all  accom- 
panied Church  to  Newport,  where,  shortly  after,  in  Church’s  absence,  he  was  per- 


D E F 

1 

2 

''  ^ Slate  House  D.  2. 

HrM"  i __^_J^^=====J('1  / / 3.  lledwood  Library  D.2. 

| W lL=====!^  ' 1 * ib  iff  far*  STEPS 

| 1 |||  \ I,  w5fi<r&g^jx — Lrr^fl  U i 4.  Acad,  oj Music . D.2. 

3 

- ^7/  ' V---4 1 " J)))/  3.  Tourc  Park  and 

s — =^7  | \jj\l  v Hound  Towel’  H 2. 

! J 6.  Vast  Office.  D.2. 

| i j \\  |p2* / 8-  Old  Cemetery.  1>  1 

|— 1 — i . 0.  HR., Station . C.2. 

4 

5 

j l1  tm  T %((/}  Trinity  Church  D.2. 

j|  Ji  \ ^tv';  1 i.  SI.  Mary  's  * D.  2. 

f*/  \ fe^irj  \ rock  13-  Ocean  Hause  D.3. 

ZJ1  14.  Atlantic  " D.2. 

li  | c§/  1 Zjll* ' ) 1 r>  A/midnerk  " D.2. 

1 v?i  T ~ M 1 ' 16.  Vuitetl  States  • . D.2. 

J^;/  ' 1J.  TSalhinj  Beach  Y 2 

1}  ROC“S  W-  SpmlmyRrtk.  D.6. 

20.  Fort  Adams . B.  3 

6 

D E F 

BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  3.  41 


fidiously  beheaded.  The  chief  Tispaquin  and  his  men  also  surrendered  to  Church 
under  solemn  pledges  of  pardon  and  amnesty,  but  the  murder  of  this  patriotic 
leader  was  reserved  for  the  people  of  Plymouth. 

In  1629-31  Dean  Berkeley  gave  a high  literary  tone  to  the  colony,  and  organized 
a philosophic  society  and  scientific  discussions.  The  harbor  of  Newport  was 
fortified  in  1733.  The  royal  census  of  1730  reported  4,640  inhabitants  in  the  town. 
In  1769-70  Newport  stood  second  only  to  Boston  in  the  extent  of  its  commerce, 
being  far  ahead  of  New  York.  Its  population  in  1774  was  12,000,  and  in  1870  it 
was  12,518.  In  Dec.,  1776,  the  town  was  captured  by  a British  expedition  from 
New  York,  and  was  held  until  Nov.,  1779.  Lord  Percy  commanded  here  until 
he  was  summoned  to  England  to  assume  the  Dukedom  of  Northumberland. 
The  Hessian  Waldeck  regiment  (1,500  men)  formed  part  of  the  garrison,  and 
Admiral  Howe’s  fleet  wintered  here,  1777  -78,  and  returned  here  after  its  battle 
with  D’Estaing’s  fleet  off  Point  Judith.  Later  in  the  year  D’Estaing  made  a 
daring  demonstration,  which  caused  the  British  to  burn  six  frigates  before  the 
town.  Sullivan  and  Green  advanced  down  the  island  in  Aug.,  1778,  but  were 
forced  to  retire,  after  an  indecisive  action.  In  Nov.,  1779,  the  Anglo-Hessian 
army  evacuated  the  place,  having  destroyed  the  wharves,  fortifications,  &c. 
In  1779  D’Estaing  worsted  Admiral  Arbuthnot  in  a petty  action  off  Gardiner’s 
Island,  and  then  returned  to  Newport.  In  July,  1780,  a large  fleet,  commanded 
by  the  Chevalier  de  Ternay,  “Knight  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  Governor  of  the 
Islands  of  France  and  Bourbon,”  &c.,  appeared  in  the  harbor,  bringing 
the  Count  de  Rochambeau  and  6,000  French  soldiers  (the  regiments  Bour- 
bon nais,  Agenois,  Royal  Auvergne,  de  Saintonge,  Royal  Deux-Ponts,  Touraine, 
Soissonais,  &c.).  Among  his  officers  were  Aubert  Dubayet,  who  afterwards  was 
gen.  commanding  Mayence  and  in  La  Vendee,  and  in  1796  was  Minister  of  War  ; 
Count  d’Autichamp,  afterwards  an  emigre  who  served  in  all  Conde’s  cam- 
paigns ; Viscount  Beauharnais,  afterwards  President  of  the  French  Assembly  and 
Minister  of  War,  who  was  guillotined  in  1794.  His  son  Eugene  became  Viceroy 
of  Italy,  and  his  widow,  Josephine,  became  Empress  of  France ; Berthier,  af- 
terwards Marshal  of  France  and  Prince  of  Neufchatel  and  Wagram,  created  by 
Louis  XVIII.  a Peer  of  France,  and  assassinated  at  Bamberg  in  1815 ; Viscount 
de  Bethisy,  afterwards  lieut.-gen.  in  the  army  of  Conde ; Christian,  Count 
of  Forbach,  and  William,  his  successor,  fought  in  the  Royal  Deux  Ponts  regi- 
ment ; Count  Axel  Fersen,  later  Grand  Marshal  of  Sweden  ; Viscount  de  Fleury, 
later  Marshal  of  France  ; the  Duke  de  Lauzun,  who  commanded  the  Army  of  the 
Rhine  and  of  La  Rochelle,  defeated  the  royalist  La  Vendee,  and  was  guillotined 
in  1794  ; Viscount  de  Noailles  ; Marquis  de  Chastellux ; Viscount  Laval,  and  his 
son,  afterwards  the  Duke  de  Laval ; Viscount  de  Mirabeau,  colonel  of  the  regi- 
ment La  Touraine,  brother  of  the  great  Mirabeau  ; Count  du  Muy ; Chevalier  de 
Mauduit-Plessis  ; Marquis  de  Viomenil ; Viscount  de  Fleury ; Count  de  Dumas  ; 
Chevalier  Dupertail ; Duke  de  Damas  ; Viscount  Desandrouins  ; Arthur  Count  de 
Dillon,  who  defeated  the  Prussians  at  Argonne  and  Verdun,  and  was  guillotined  in 
1794;  Marquis  de  Dubouchet ; Baron  Turreau  ; Baron  Viomenil ; Victor  de  Broglie  ; 
Count  de  Custine,  a veteran  of  the  Great  Frederick’s  Seven  Year’s  War,  afterwards 
governor  of  Toulon,  commander  of  the  Army  of  the  North,  and  of  the  Lower 
Rhine,  and  guillotined  in  1793. 

In  1781  the  Chevalier  de  Tilly  broke  up  Arnold’s  raiding  fleet  in  the  Chesapeake, 
and  brought  the  “Romulus,”  44,  and  six  other  prizes  into  Newport.  Through- 
out the  war,  Newport  was  rudely  handled  and  gradually  demolished,  until  Brissot 
de  Warville,  visiting  the  place  in  1788,  said  that  it  resembled  Liege  after  the  great 
siege.  “ The  reign  of  solitude  is  only  interrupted  by  groups  of  idle  men  standing 
with  folded  arms  at  the  corners  of  the  streets  ; houses  falling  to  ruin  ; miserable 
shops  which  present  nothing  but  a few  coarse  stuffs,  or  baskets  of  apples,  and 
other  things  of  little  value  ; grass  growing  in  the  public  square  in  front  of  the 
court  of  justice  ; rags  stuffed  in  the  windows,  or  hung  upon  hideous  women  and 
lean,  unquiet  children.”  At  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  the  French  government 
made  strenuous  efforts  to  have  Rhode  Island  ceded  to  the  domain  of  France. 
President  Adams  made  a naval  station  here,  fortified  with  six  batteries.  Dr. 
Samuel  Hopkins,  the  founder  of  the  Hopkinsian  school  of  theology  (“System  of 
Theology”),  and  hero  of  Mrs.  Stowe’s  novel,  “The  Minister’s  Wooing,”  preached 
at  Newport,  1770  - 1803.  Dr.  Stiles,  afterwards  President  of  Yale  College,  preached 
here  for  many  years.  The  population,  which  in  1782  was  reduced  to  5,530,  rose 
slowly  until  the  war  of  1812  stopped  its  growth,  and  since  then  the  progress  of 


42  j Route  3 . 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Newport  has  been  slow  and  uneven.  But  this  unprogressive  and  tranquil  spirit 
constitutes  one  of  the  charms  of  Newport,  and  makes  of  this  quiet  little  marine 
city  the  Ostend,  the  Nice  of  America. 

William  Ellery  Channing  was  born  at  Newport  in  1780  (died  1842).  “ The  in- 

fluences of  the  climate  and  scenery  of  the  island  where  his  boyhood  was  passed, 
had  no  slight  influence  upon  the  social  and  moral  attributes  of  his  mind.”  He. 
won  the  highest  honors  at  Harvard  University,  and  afterwards  was  pastor  of  a" 
Unitarian  Church  in  Boston  for  37  years.  He  was  an  abolitionist,  an  anti- 
annexationist, and  an  advocate  of  peace,  and  his  principles  were  sustained 
with  fearless  independence,  plain-spoken  fidelity,  and  a solemn  and  impressive 
manner.  As  the  leader  of  the  liberal  party  in  the  Unitarian  controversy,  his 
power  was  derived  as  much  from  the  symmetrical  beauty  of  his  life  as  from  the 
remarkable  strength  of  his  writings.  “ He  has  the  love  of  wisdom,  and  the  wis- 
dom of  love.”  — Coleuidge,  of  Channing. 

Newport,  “the  Queen  of  American  watering-places,”  and  a semi-capi- 
tal of  the  State  of  Rhode  Island,  is  on  the  S.  W.  shore  of  the  island 
from  which  the  State  is  named,  and  fronts,  across  its  harbor,  on  Narra- 
gansett  Bay.  Its  older  portion,  lying  near  the  wharves,  has  many  narrow 
streets,  bordered  with  the  houses  of  the  year-round  residents,  many  of 
which  are  mansions  of  the  old  time.  New  Newport  almost  surrounds 
the  old  town,  and  stretches  away  to  the  S.  with  a great  number  of 
handsome  villas  and  cottages.  The  bathing  and  boating  at  Newport  are 
fine,  the  drives  over  the  “Isle  of  Peace ” are  varied  and  pleasant,  but  the 
chief  charm  of  the  place  is  its  balmy  and  equable  climate,  due,  according 
to  most  opinions,  to  a divergence  in  this  direction  of  the  waters  of  the 
Gulf  Stream.  Dean  Berkeley  likened  the  atmosphere  of  Newport  to  that 
of  Italy,  while  another  writer  speaks  of  the  damp  sea-air  and  equable 
climate  as  resembling  those  of  England.  Fogs  are  of  frequent  occurrence, 
but  of  short  duration.  There  are  many  summer  visitors  from  the  South 
and  the  West  Indies,  while  the  array  of  literary  talent  which  gathers  here 
yearly  is  quite  attractive.  Several  of  the  ambassadors  from  Europe,  with 
the  nobles  connected  with  the  embassies,  spend  their  summers  here.  The 
feature  of  private  cottages  is  largely  developed  here,  and  hotel  life  is  quite 
subordinate  to  it.  Wealthy  New  York  and  Boston  merchants  move  into 
their  palatial  villas  early  in  the  summer,  and  have  their  horses  and  car- 
riages sent  on,  so  that  by  Aug.  1 the  broad,  firm  avenues,  and  the  hard 
and  level  beaches  are  filled  with  cheerful  life. 

The  central  point  in  Old  Newport  is  Washington  Square,  with  its  mall 
and  fountain.  The  State  House  fronts  on  this  Square, — a plain  but  solid 
old  building  erected  in  1742,  which  served  as  a hospital  from  1776  to  1781. 
From  its  steps  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  read,  July  20,  1776, 
and  in  its  Senate  Chamber  is  a fine  portrait  of  George  Washington,  by 
Stuart.  The  City  Hall,  the  Perry  Hotel,  and  the  mansion  taken  by 
Com.  Perry  after  his  victory  at  Lake  Erie,  all  front  on  this  Square.  Gen. 
Washington  passed  through  this  Square  on  his  way  to  Rochambeau’s 
headquarters  in  his  first  visit  to  Newport.  . In  the  evening  the  town 
was  illuminated,  and  Washington,  Rochambeau,  and  the  French  nobles 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  3.  43 


paraded  through  the  streets.  Trinity  Church  (on  Church  St.)  was 
built  in  the  early  part  of  the  last  century,  and  was  often  preached  in  by 
Dean  Berkeley  (1729  to  1731).  He  presented  an  organ  (still  in  use)  to 
this  church,  and  left  a dearer  token,  one  of  his  children,  in  the  old  church- 
yard. On  Farewell  St.  is  an  ancient  cemetery,  where  are  buried  many 
of  the  earliest  colonists  and  their  governors.  The  Jewish  cemetery  on 
Touro  St.  is  a beautiful  garden-spot  kept  in  perfect  order.  Near  it  is 
the  Synagogue,  the  first  in  the  Union  (built  in  1762),  and  not  now  used, 
though  kept  in  order  by  permanent  endowments.  The  * Redwood 
Library  is  south  of  the  cemetery,  in  a handsome  Doric  building,  dating 
from  1750.  An  elegant  though  small  library  is  kept  here,  and  some  good 
paintings,  together  with  some  fine  pieces  of  statuary.  The  King  of  Eng- 
land gave  84  volumes  to  this  library,  and  Dean  Berkeley  gave  also  a large 
number  ; but  when  the  evacuating  British  army  carried  even  the  church- 
bells  with  them,  they  spared  not  the  Redwood  Library.  Touro  Park  is  a 
favorite  resort,  and  was  the  gift  of  Judah  Touro,  born  at  Newport  in  1775, 
the  son  of  Isaac  Touro,  the  pastor  of  the  J ewish  Synagogue.  From  1802 
to  1854  he  lived  in  New  Orleans,  where  he  amassed  a large  fortune  which 
he  left  to  various  charities,  mostly  those  of  the  Christian  Church,  though 
he  himself  was  a Jew.  “ He  gave  $10,000  towards  the  Bunker  Hill 
Monument.”  On  this  Park,  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence,  stands  the 
* Round  Tower,  otherwise  called  the  Old  Stone  Mill,  an  ivy-clad,  circular 
stone  tower  supported  on  round  arches.  More  battles  of  the  antiqua- 
rians have  been  fought  over  this  ancient  tower  than  could  well  be  num- 
bered, the  radical  theories  of  its  origin  being,  on  the  one  side,  that  it  was 
built  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  11th  century,  and  on  the  other  that  a 
colonial  governor  (over  perhaps  500  people),  built  it  for  a windmill  in  the 
17th  century.  Verrazzani  spent  15  days  in  the  harbor  and  exploring  the 
land  (1524),  but  makes  no  mention  of  this  tower  ; while,  on  the  other  hand, 
it  is  certain  that  the  early  colonists  never  built  in  such  architecture  or 
materials  as  are  here  seen.  The  only  thing  in  favor  of  the  mill  theory  is 
the  fact  that  Gov.  Benedict  Arnold  (died  in  1678)  bequeathes  it  in  his 
will  as  “my  stone-built  windmill.”  The  opening  scenes  of  Cooper’s 
“ Spy  ” are  laid  in  this  vicinity ; and  Longfellow’s  poem,  “ The  Skeleton 
in  Armor,”  has  told  its  story.  But  “ its  history  has  already,  in  Young 
America,  passed  into  the  region  of  myth.”  Near  the  round  tower  stands 
the  statue  of  Commodore  M.  C.  Perry,  who  opened  Japan  to  the  world 
(1854). 

The  Vernon  House  (corner  Mary  and  Clarke  Sts.)  was  Rochambeau’s 
headquarters  in  1780.  Also  on  Clarke  St.  is  the  Central  Baptist  Church, 
built  in  1733,  and  next  to  it  is  the  armory  of  the  Newport  Artillery  Com- 
pany, an  elite  corps,  formed  in  1741.  The  first  Methodist  steeple  in  the 
world  is  on  the  church  on  Marlboro  St.  The  Penrose  House,  on  Church 


44  Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


St.,  a famous  old  colonial  mansion,  where  Gen.  Washington  was  once 
a guest,  is  now  a tenement  house,  and  the  Channing  Mansion  (built  1720) 
is  near  Thames  St.  The  First  Baptist  Church,  on  Spring  St.,  dates  from 
1638.  In  the  office  of  the  Mercury , a weekly  paper  started  in  1758,  is 
Ben.  Franklin’s  printing-press,  imported  in  1720.  The  News  is  a bright 
daily  newspaper. 

12  M.  N.  E.  of  Newport  is  the  Stone  Bridge  which  unites  Rhode 
Island  with  the  mainland  at  Tiverton.  About  7 M.  out  is  the  Glen,  a 
romantic  spot,  tree-shaded  and  quiet,  where  an  old  mill  stands  near  a 
small  pond.  This  is  a favorite  drive  for  the  Newport  visitors,  forming  an 
easy  afternoon’s  ride.  A small  hotel  is  situated  1-2  M.  from  the  Glen, 
and  a church  in  the  vicinity  was  frequently  preached  in  by  Dr.  Channing, 
“the  Apostle  of  Unitarianism. ” 

6-7  M.  from  Newport,  on  a road  running  to  the  W.  of  the  Stone 
Bridge  highway,  is  Lawton’s  Valley,  a beautiful  rural  resort,  rich  in 
verdure  and  in  trees  which  are  kept  green  by  a bright  stream  flowing 
seaward.  The  Pond  and  Old  Mill  are  the  principal  objects  in  the  scenery. 
Over  the  valley  is  Butt’s  Hill,  where  Sir  Robert  Pigott  attacked  the  Amer- 
icans under  Sullivan  and  Green  on  their  retreat  from  the  siege.  Pigott 
impulsively  attacked  the  halting  army,  and  was  beaten  back  by  them 
until  nightfall,  when  the  Americans  continued  their  retreat  to  the  main- 
land, saving  both  their  artillery  and  their  stores.  The  British  loss  was 
260,  while  the  New  England  militia  lost  206  men.  3J  M.  from  New- 
port, on  this  road,  is  the  pretty  little  church  of  the  Holy  Cross, 
and  near  it  is  the  farmhouse  used  by  the  British  Gen.  Prescott  as 
heaqduarters.  On  the  night  of  July  10,  1777,  Lieut. -Col.  Barton  and 
a small  party  crossed  Narraganset  Bay  in  a boat,  and  took  Prescott 
from  his  bed,  carrying  him  into  captivity.  He  was  exchanged  for 
Gen.  Lee. 

The  grand  drive  is  on  * Bellevue  Ave.,  a clean,  broad  road,  lined 
with  villas,  and  running  two  miles  to  the  S.  Here,  at  the  fashionable 
hour,  passes  a procession  of  elegant  equipages  only  equalled  in  Central 
Park,  Hyde  Park,  or  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  Many  of  the  homes  along 
this  avenue  are  of  palatial  splendor,  and  they  form  a handsome  panorama 
of  architecture.  Bailey’s  Beach  is  at  the  end  of  Bellevue  Ave. ; and 
among  the  rocky  cliffs  on  the  shore  near  by  is  the  Spouting  Cave,  a deep 
cavern  running  back  from  the  sea,  into  which  great  waves  crowd  after  a 
storm  from  the  S.  E.  Unable  to  go  farther,  they  break  with  a heavy 
boom,  and  dash  upward  through  an  opening  in  the  roof,  sometimes  to  a 
height  of  40-50  ft.  From  the  cliffs  in  the  vicinity  (near  the  Boat- 
House  Landing)  a noble  sea- view  is  gained,  stretching  as  far  as  Block 
Island,  30  miles  S.  W.  The  picturesque  Gooseberry  Island  is  nearer, 
in  the  foreground.  “A  finer  sea- view  — lit  up,  as  it  is,  moreover, 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  3.  45 


by  the  ever  truly  fairy-like  spectacle  of  ships  gliding  under  sail  over 
the  waters  — the  eye  can  rarely  witness.”  Narragansett  Ave.  runs  at 
right  angles  with  Bellevue  Ave.,  and  terminates  on  the  E.  at  the  Forty 
Steps  (leading  down  the  rocks).  It  is  lined  with  fine  houses. 

The  * First  Beach  (about  J M.  from  the  Ocean  House)  is  a strip  of 
white  sand,  hard  and  smooth,  extending  for  1 M.  in  length  and  lined 
with  bath-houses.  The  slope  of  the  shore  is  very  gradual,  and  the  surf 
is  light  rather  than  heavy,  so  that  this  is  one  of  the  safest  beaches 
on  the  coast.  It  is  a lively  and  brilliant  scene  here  during  the  hours 
of  the  white  flag  in  warm  days,  and  the  beach  is  fringed  with  carriages. 
The  Cliff  Cottages  are  in  this  vicinity.  1 M.  E.  is  the  Second,  or 
Sachuest  Beach,  whose  “hard  black  beach  is  the  most  perfect  race- 
course, and  the  heaving  of  the  sea  sympathizes  with  the  rider,  and  in- 
spires him.”  The  hours  of  low  tide  are  the  favorite  times  to  ride  here. 

Purgatory  is  at  the  W.  end  of  Sachuest  Beach.  It  is  a wonderful 
chasm,  160  ft.  long,  40-50  ft.  deep,  and  8-14  ft.  wide  at  the  top,  torn 
out  by  upheaval  or  eaten  by  the  waves,  in  the  graywacke  rock.  Several 
feet  of  water  remain  in  the  chasm  at  low  tide,  and  in  stormy  high  tides 
heavy  masses  of  water  boom  through  it.  The  familiar  story  of  the 
Lover’s  Leap  of  course  attaches  to  this  place,  but  is  antedated  by  the 
legend  that  the  Devil  once  threw  into  it  a sinful  Indian  squaw,  and  his 
hoof-marks  can  be  seen  by  all  unbelievers.  Other  stories,  of  later  date, 
attach  to  the  Purgatory,  but  the  origin  of  its  name  does  not  transpire. 
Paradise  is  a verdant  valley  adorned  with  cottages,  opening  off  Sachuest 
Beach,  and  near  it  is  a mass  of  rocks  and  upheaved  boulders  called  Para- 
dise Lost.  The  Third  Beach  is  a long,  quiet,  and  sequestered  line  of  sand, 
above  which  are  the  Hanging  Rocks,  where,  in  a sheltered  natural  alcove, 
Dean  Berkeley  loved  to  sit,  and  look  out  over  the  wide  sea,  and  write  down 
his  meditations. 

Here  he  composed  “ Alciphron  ; or  the  Minute  Philosopher,”  a series  of  Platonic 
dialogues  defending  the  Christian  system.  Here  probably  he  wrote  the  noble 
lyric  ending  with  the  prophecy  : — 

“ Westward  the  course  of  empire  takes  its  way, 

The  four  first  acts  already  past, 

A fifth  shall  end  the  drama  with  the  day. 

Time’s  noblest  offspring  is  the  last.” 

George  Berkeley,  Dean  of  Derry,  a famous  philosopher  and  idealist,  conceived 
a plan  for  converting  the  American  Indians  by  a university,  and  came  to  New- 
port, under  royal  charter,  in  1729.  He  built  the  mansion  “Whitehall”  (now 
a farmhouse),  3 M.  from  the  town,  but  soon  found  that  his  scheme  was  im- 
practicable, and  returned  to  England  in  1731,  giving  his  Newport  estate  and  a fine 
library  to  Yale  and  Harvard  Colleges.  From  1733  until  his  death  (in  1753)  he  was 
Bishop  of  Cloyne. 

Washington  Allston  was  fond  of  roaming  on  these  beaches,  and  Dr.  Channing 
once  remarked  (of  First  Beach),  “No  spot  on  earth  has  helped  to  form  me  so 
much  as  that  beach.” 

Sachuest  Point  is  on  the  S.  E.  of  the  island,  and  is  much  visited  by 
fishermen. 


46  Route  3. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


To  Miantonomi  Hill,  1|  M.  from  the  city,  with  its  old  British  earth- 
works and  noble  view  of  Newport  and  its  environs,  is  a pleasant  ex- 
cursion for  a clear  day.  Iloneyman's  Hill,  near  Miantonomi,  is  another 
far-viewing  point.  The  old  Malbone  Estate  (see  “Malbone;  a Romance 
of  Oldport,”  by  T.  W.  Higginson)  was  at  the  foot  of  Miantonomi  Hill. 

The  Pirates'  Cave  and  Bateman’s  Point  are  often  visited,  being  about 
4J  M.  from  the  city,  and  a favorite  drive  is  around  the  Neck,  past 
Fort  Adams,  and  along  Ocean  and  Bellevue  Aves.  to  the  city  again,  the 
distance  being  little  more  than  10  M. 

Fort  Adams,  distant  3J-4  M.  from  the  city  (by  Thames  St.  and  Wel- 
lington Ave.).  This  is  the  strongest  (save  two,  Fortress  Monroe  and 
Fort  Richmond)  of  the  coast  defences  of  the  U.  S.,  and  mounts  468  can- 
non, requiring  a garrison  of  3,000  men.  Its  systems  of  covered  ways, 
casemates,  and  other  protective  works,  is  complete.  The  “fort  days,” 
(twice  weekly),  when  the  garrison  band  plays  its  best  music,  attract 
great  numbers  of  visitors,  and  many  carriages  pass  the  imposing  granite 
walls,  and  wait  on  the  parade. 

This  fortress  is  on  Brenton’s  Point,  named  for  the  noble  family  of  that  name. 
William  Brenton  was  governor  of  the  colony  1666-69  ; his  son,  Jahleel,  was  a cus- 
toms officer  under  William  III.  ; his  grandson,  Jahleel,  resided  on  the  great  family 
estates  in  the  island ; his  great-grandson,  Jahleel,  refused  very  tempting  offers 
from  the  Americans,  left  his  estates,  which  were  afterwards  confiscated,  and  com- 
manded the  British  frigate,  the  “Queen”;  his  great-great-grandson,  Jahleel,  an 
English  knight  and  rear-admiral  of  the  Blue,  died  at  London  in  1841. 

Opposite  Fort  Adams,  on  Conanicut  Island,  is  an  old  stone  fort,  cir- 
cular in  form,  called  the  Dumplings.  A fine  marine  view  is  enjoyed 
from  this  loftily  placed  ruin. 

Goat  Island,  opposite  the  city-wharves,  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
torpedo  division  of  the  U.  S.  Naval  Service.  Here  is  the  school  in  which 
the  young  officers  of  the  navy  are  instructed  in  the  torpedo  service.  Lime 
Rock  is  beyond  Goat  Island,  and  is  famed  for  being  the  home  of  Ida 
Lewis,  the  American  Grace  Darling,  who  has  saved  many  lives  in  this 
harbor.  Rose  Island  is  farther  out  in  the  Bay,  and  has  the  remains  of  an 
old  fort  upon  it.  Fort  Green  was  built  in  1798,  near  the  Blue  Rocks  and 
the  line  of  Washington  St.  On  Coaster's  Harbor  Island  is  a fine 
Asylum  for  the  poor,  on  land  left  by  Wm.  Coddington,  the  founder  of 
R.  I.,  and  for  nine  years  its  governor. 

Uliotle  Island  was  bought  from  the  Indians  in  163S.  Its  name  was  Aquid- 
neck,  “The  Isle  of  Peace.”  The  earliest  discoverers  named  it  Claudia,  and  a later 
exploring  expedition  from  Holland,  coming  upon  it  in  the  autumn,  when  its  forests 
were  in  bright  colors,  called  it  Rood  Eylandt,  the  Red  Island.  Roger  Williams 
tried  to  fasten  the  name  “Patmos”  upon  it,  but  Rhode  Island  prevailed,  derived, 
according  to  some,  from  its  similarity  to  tlie  Isle  of  Rhodes,  a Moslem  fortress  in 
the  E.  Mediterranean.  In  that  early  day  Neale  called  it  “the  garden  of  New 
England,”  and  even  now  the  Rhode  Island  farms  are  the  most  valuable  in  the  six 
States.  Off  its  shores  are  caught  112  kinds  of  fish,  ranging  from  whales  to 
smelts.  The  island  is  15  M.  long  by  3-4  M.  wide,  and  is  “pleasantly  laid 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  3.  47 


out  in  hills  and  vales  and  rising  grounds,  with  plenty  of  excellent  springs 
and  fine  rivulets,  and  many  delightful  landscapes  of  rock,  and  promontories,  and 
adjacent  lands.” 

Malbone,  the  celebrated  portrait-painter,  was  born  at  Newport  in  1777,  and  Capt. 

! Decatur,  of  the  navy,  was  born  here  in  1751,  whose  son  was  Stephen  Decatur, 
“the  Bayard  of  the  seas.” 

After  leaving  Fall  River,  and  touching  at  Newport,  the  steamer  moves 
on  steadily  through  the  night,  passing  Point  Judith,  Block  Island,  and 
j Fisher’s  Island,  after  which  she  enters  the  tranquil  waters  of  Long  Island 
Sound.  At  a very  early  hour  the  narrowing  W.  end  of  the  Sound  is 
entered,  and  the  shores  of  Westchester  County  are  passed  on  the  N. 
Throgg’s  Point,  on  the  r.,  bears  Fort  Schuyler  (318  guns),  out  on  the 
Sound,  which  is  mated  by  a strong  fortress  on  Willet’s  Point  (opposite). 
After  passing  several  villages,  Flushing  Bay  opens  to  the  1.,  with  the 
beautiful  village  of  Flushing  at  its  head.  Richly  cultivated  islands  and 
shores  follow,  up  to  Randall’s  Island,  with  the  House  of  Refuge,  and 
Ward’s  Island,  with  the  Emigrant-Refuge  and  Hospital,  and  the  Potter’s 
Field,  where  3,000  of  the  poor  of  New  York  are  buried  yearly.  The 
steamer  now  enters  Hell  Gate,  a wild  and  turbulent  succession  of  strong 
currents  and  whirlpools,  caused  by  the  action  of  immense  bodies  of  water, 
in  the  changes  of  the  tide,  being  poured  through  this  narrow  and  sinuous 
strait,  which  abounds  in  rocky  islets  and  sunken  ledges.  The  passage  of 
this  point  was  formerly  difficult  and  dangerous,  and  two  or  three  British 
frigates  were  wrecked  here  during  our  wars.  But  immense  ledges  have 
been  removed  by  submarine  blasting,  and  now  but  little  danger  remains. 
Astoria  and  Ravenswood  are  beautiful  villages  soon  passed  on  the  Long- 
Island  shore,  after  which  Blackwell’s  Island  comes  into  view,  with  its 
long  lines  of  charitable  and  correctional  establishments.  The  N.  point 
of  this  island'is  occupied  by  a neat  little  model  of  a fort,  with  a formid- 
able array  of  wooden  cannon,  called  Fort  Maxey  or  the  Crazy-Man’s  Fort. 
It  was  built  by  an  Irish  lunatic  named  Maxey,  who  has  lived  many  years 
here,  and  claims  a great  sum  from  the  government  for  his  defense  of  New 
York.  The  octagonal  building,  with  two  long  wings,  is  the  Lunatic 
Asylum.  One  wing  is  reserved  for  each  sex,  while  the  more  noisy 
maniacs  are  kept  in  a separate  building  on  the  E.  The  Work-Houses 
come  next,  where  willing  hands  which  can  find  no  work,  and  vagrants, 
who  will  not  do  honest  labor,  are  furnished  with  appropriate  work.  The 
extensive  Alms-Houses,  with  the  handsome  house  of  the  Superintendent, 
come  next,  being  divided  into  male  and  female  departments.  Then  the 
extensive  Penitentiary  and  Charity-Hospital  are  passed,  and,  on  the  lower 
end  of  the  island,  the  ornate  building  of  the  Small-Pox  Hospital.  These 
structures  are  all  of  granite,  quarried  here  by  the  convicts,  and  probably 
there  is  no  cluster  of  such  institutions,  in  the  same  space,  in  the  world, 
which  combine  so  much  of  safety,  comfort,  and  practical  influence  for 
correction  and  restraint.  Deep  ship-channels  run  on  each  side  of  the 


48  Route  4- 


BOSTON  TO  S.  DUXBURY. 


island,  and  on  the  Manhattan  shore,  opposite  its  centre,  is  the  great 
German  Festival-Garden,  called  Jones’  Wood.  Hunter’s  Point  and 
Greenpoint  are  now  passed  on  the  left,  and  a long  line,  on  both  sides  of 
the  East  River,  of  foundries  and  factories.  Then  comes  Williamsburg 
with  its  shipyards.  On  the  1.,  and  beyond  it,  fronting  on  Wallabout 
Bay,  is  the  Brooklyn  Navy-Yard,  the  principal  naval-station  of  the 
Union,  where  several  U.  S.  frigates  may  usually  be  seen.  Crowded 
wharves  now  stretch  into  the  stream  on  each  side,  with  forests  of 
masts,  while  fleet  and  powerful  tug-boats  dart  to  and  fro  in  the  river,  and 
the  crowded  and  ever  busy  ferry-boats  cross  and  recross  it.  The  works 
of  the  great  East-River  Bridge  are  seen  near  Fulton  Ferry  in  Brooklyn. 
Where  Brooklyn  bends  off  to  the  S.  W.,  the  steamer  turns  to  the 
W.,  and  passes  Governor’s  Island  on  the  1.  This  island  belongs  to 
the  government,  and  its  centre  is  occupied  by  Fort  Columbus,  a low-lying 
but  powerful  star-fort,  mounting  120  guns.  A water-battery  on  the 
S.  W.  commands  the  channel  toward  Brooklyn,  and  a tall,  semi-cir- 
cular fort  with  three  tiers  of  guns,  called  Castle  William,  looks  toward 
the  Battery.  The  steamer  now  rounds  the  Battery,  the  tree-shaded 
lower  extremity  of  Manhattan  Island.  This  was  once  a favorite  park, 
but  is  now  neglected.  The  curious  round  building  at  the  water’s  edge 
was  built  in  1807  by  the  government,  as  a fortress,  under  the  name  of 
Castle  Clinton.  At  a later  day  great  fairs  and  concerts  were  held  here, 
and  it  is  now  used  as  an  emigrant  depot.  On  the  1.,  Ellis,  Bedloes,  and 
Staten  Islands  are  seen,  and  Jersey  City  and  Bergen.  Passing  up  the 
North  River  the  boat  soon  enters  its  dock  at  the  foot  of  Chambers  St. 
(see  New  York). 

4.  Boston  to  S.  Buxfcury. 

Via  Old  Colony  and  South  Shore  Railroads.  Distance,  39  M.  Time, 
lf-2J  hrs. 

Boston  to  Braintree,  see  Route  3.  Stations,  E.  Braintree,  Weymouth, 
Wessagusset  (Weymouth  Hotel),  12  M.  from  Boston,  a town  of  9,000  in- 
habitants, was  settled  at  an  early  date  by  60  Episcopalians.  Here,  in 
1623,  occurred  the  terrible  attack  of  Miles  Standish  on  the  assembled  In- 
dian chiefs,  whose  justifiableness  has  not  yet  been  proven  clearly.  The 
scene  is  well  described  in  the  7th  part  of  “ The  Courtship  of  Miles  Stand- 
ish,” by  Longfellow.  After  this  affair,  the  Episcopalian  colonists  left, 
and  in  1624  a company  moved  in  from  Weymouth,  in  Dorsetshire,  Eng. 
who  gave  its  name  to  the  town. 

Stations  N.  Weymouth,  E.  Weymouth,  W.  Hingham,  Hingham  (see 
Route  2),  Nantasket,  and  Cohasset.  The  latter  is  a small  town  with 
a quaint  old  church  on  its  green.  The  rocky  shores  and  resounding 
inlets  along  the  ocean  front  are  very  picturesque,  and  are  adorned 
with  fine  villas. 


BOSTON  TO  S.  DUXBURY. 


Route  If.  49 


No  district  in  America  yields  such  quantities  of  Irish  moss  as  do  the  shores  of 
Cohasset  and  Scituate.  On  these  same  “hard  sienitic  rocks,  which  the  waves 
have  laid  hare  hut  have  not  heen  able  to  crumble,”  in  Oct.,  1849,  the  emigrant 
vessel  “ St.  John  ” was  wrecked,  and  many  scores  of  passengers  were  lost.  “ The 
sea-bathing  at  Cohasset  Rocks  was  perfect.  The  water  was  purer  and  more  trans- 
parent than  any  I had  ever  seen.  The  smooth  and  fantastically  worn  rocks,  and 
the  perfectly  clean  and  tress-like  rock-weeds  falling  over  you,  and  attached  so 
firmly  to  the  rocks  that  you  could  pull  yourself  up  by  them,  greatly  enhanced  the 
luxury  of  the  bath.”  — Thoreau.  Capt.  John  Smith,  when  passing  by  one  of 
these  rocky  promontories,  in  1614,  was  attacked  by  the  Indians  with  arrows, 
whereupon  he  says,  “We  found  the  people  in  those  parts  verie  kinde  ; but  in  their 
furie  no  lesse  valiant.” 

At  N.  Cohasset  are  the  Black  Rock  and  Rockville  Houses,  while 
the  Pleasant  Beach  House  is  south  of  these,  and  on  a point  near  Minot’s 
Ledge  is  the  extensive  Glades  House.  Minot’s  Ledge  is  a dangerous 
reef  far  out  from  the  shore.  In  1849,  a lighthouse  on  iron  piles  was 
built  here,  but  this  was  swept  away  in  the  great  storm  of  April,  1851, 
and  its  keepers  were  lost.  The  present  lighthouse  (8  M.  from  Boston 
Light)  is  88  ft.  high,  of  which  the  lower  40  ft.  are  of  solid  masonry. 
Stations  N.  Scituate,  Egypt,  Scituate  (South  Shore  House),  a quiet 
old  marine  village  looking  out  on  the  ocean  through  a wide  harbor-mouth 
scarce  a mile  away.  Cliff  St.  leads  up  on  an  eminence  whence  a fine 
view  is  gained  of  the  sea,  and  the  singular  and  desolate  bluffs  in  the  S. 
Near  by  is  Peggotty  Beach,  with  good  bathing,  but  no  hotel. 

Station,  South  Scituate  (far- viewing  hotel  on  the  bluffs  near  the  R.  R.), 
E.  Marshfield,  Littletown,  Marshfield  Centre. 

Marshfield  station  is  about  4 M.  from  the  seaside  resort  of  Brant 
Rock  (several  small  hotels).  Carriages  are  usually  in  waiting  at  the  sta- 
tion to  carry  travellers  to  Brant  Rock,  or  to  the  Webster  Estate  (2  M.). 
The  Webster  Mansion  is  a large,  antique,  and  pleasant  house,  approached 
from  the  road  by  a long,  curving  avenue  lined  with  trees.  By  the  courtesy 
of  the  present  possessors  of  the  estate,  travellers  are  permitted  to  go 
through  the  house  (gratuity  to  servants,  50  cts.).  The  various  apart- 
ments of  the  house,  low,  broad,  and  wainscotted,  are  filled  with  old  paint- 
ings and  relics.  The  library,  a high  and  graceful  room  on  the  N.  wing, 
contains  the  books  and  many  interesting  mementos  of  the  statesman, 
together  with  an  interpolated  bust  of  Pope  Pius  IX.  \ M.  S.  of  the 
Webster  Mansion  (passing,  on  the  1.,  a French-roofed  house,  where  lives 
Adelaide  Phillips,  the  celebrated  contralto),  at  the  end  of  the  road,  is 
the  old  Winslow  Plouse,  built  and  inhabited  by  the  Pilgrim  Gov.  Winslow 
in  the  17th  century. 

A road  turning  to  the  1.  from  the  main  road  just  N.  of  the  "Webster  farm,  and 
running  toward  the  sea,  leads  in  a few  minutes  to  an  ancient  burying-ground 
on  an  ocean-viewing  hill.  The  first  graves  reached  are  those  of  the  Webster  family: 
Daniel,  and  his  sons,  — Major  Edward,  died  in  the  Mexican  War,  and  Col.  Fletcher 
Webster  (12th  Mass.  Infantry),  killed  at  the  battle  of  Bull  Run,  1862. 

Daniel  Webster,  born  at  Salisbury,  N.  H.,  Jan.  18,  1872,  was  in  the  class  of 
1S01  at  Dartmouth  College,  and  afterwards  became  a lawyer.  His  matchless  elo- 
quence and  vast  ability  carried  him  rapidly  forward,  and  he  became  a Congress- 

3 D 


50  Route  4- 


EOSTON  TO  S.  DUXBURY. 


man  (1813-17,  and  1823-27),  a Senator  (1827-39,  and  1845-50),  and  Secretary 
of  State  (1840-43,  and  1850-52.)  “ The  famous  Dartmouth  College  case,  carried 
by  appeal  to  Washington  in  1817,  placed  him  in  the  front  rank  of  the  American 
bar.  Among  the  great  cases  argued  by  him  before  the  U.  S,  Supreme  Court 
were  those  of  Gibbons  and  Ogden  (steamboat  monopoly  case),  that  of  Ogden 
and  Saunders  (State  insolvent  laws),  the  Charles  River  Bridge  case,  the  Alabama 

Bank  case,  the  Girard  Will  case,  and  the  Rhode  Island  Charter  case Dec. 

22,  1820,  he  delivered  his  celebrated  discourse  at  Plymouth  on  the  anniversary 
of  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims.  Others  of  this  class  of  efforts  were  that  on  the 
laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument  (June  17,  1825),  and 
at  its  completion  (June  17,  1843),  and  the  eulogy  on  Adams  and  Jefferson,  July  4, 
1826.  He  again  entered  Congress  in  Dec.,  1823;  made  his  famous  speech  on 
the  Greek  Revolution  ; and,  as  chairman  of  the  judiciary  committee,  reported  and 
carried  through  the  House  a complete  revision  of  the  criminal  code  of  the  U. 
S.  In  the  19th  Congress  he  made  a masterly  speech  on  the  proposed  diplo- 
matic Congress  at  Panama His  great  speech  in  reply  to  Ilayne,  delivered 

in  the  Senate  Jan.  26  and  27,  1830,  on  Foote’s  resolution,  has  been  decared, 
next  to  the  Constitution  itself,  the  most  correct  and  complete  exposition  of  the 
true  powers  and  functions  of  the  Federal  Government.”  As  Secretary  of  State 
under  Tyler  and  Fillmore,  he  settled  the  Northeastern  Boundary  question  (Ash- 
burton Treaty).  “ Mr.  Webster’s  person  was  imposing,  of  commanding  height, 
and  well-proportioned,  the  head  of  great  size,  the  eye  deep-seated,  large,  and  lus- 
trous, his  voice  deep  and  sonorous,  his  action  appropriate  and  impressive.”  His  elo- 
quence on  great  occasions  has  been  called  “the  lightning  of  passion  running  along 
the  iron  links  of  argument.”  He  was  very  fond  of  rural  life,  of  farming,  and  of 
fishing  and  hunting.  On  the  24th  of  Oct.,  1852,  at  his  home  in  Marshfield,  died 
Daniel  Webster,  the  foremost  man  in  New  England’s  history. 

Near  the  Webster  Monument  is  an  iron-railed  lot,  containing  the  tombs  of 
“The  Honble.  Josiah  Winslow,  Gov.  of  New  Plymouth.  Dyed  December  ye  18, 
1680,  setatis,  62.”  “Penelope,  ye  widdow  of  Gov.  Winslow,”  and  others. 

Edward  Winslow  came  in  the  “Mayflower,”  and  was  governor  of  Plymouth  in 
1633,  ’36,  and  ’44.  He  was  a warm  friend  of  the  Sachem  Massasoit.  Iii  1635, 
while  Plymouth’s  agent,  Archbishop  Laud  imprisoned  him  17  weeks  in  the  Fleet 
Prison  for  heretical  acts.  He  died  in  1655,  while  in  partial  superintendence  of  a 
fleet  sent  by  Cromwell  against  the  Spaniards.  From  Edward’s  brother  was  de- 
scended John  A.  Winslow,  rear-admiral  U.  S.  navy,  who  fought  in  the  Mex- 
ican War,  and  in  the  Western  river  squadrons,  1861-63.  June  19,  1864,  com- 
manding the  “Kearsage,”  he  was  attacked  off  Cherbourg  by  the  Confederate  war 
steamer,  the  “Alabama.”  The  vessels  were  of  about  the  same  strength,  but  so 
skilfully  was  the  “Kearsage”  protected  and  manoeuvred  that  her  opponent  was 
sunk  within  sight  of  the  crowded  French  coast. 

Josiah  Winslow,  son  of  Edward,  was  born  at  Marshfield  in  1629,  commanded  the 
colonial  armies  through  King  Philip’s  War,  and  was  the  first  native-born  governor 
(1673-1680).  His  grandson,  John  Winslow,  born  at  Marshfield,  1702,  a brave  and 
able  officer,  “was  the  principal  actor  in  the  tragedy  of  the  expulsion  of  the  hap- 
less Acadians  from  Nova  Scotia  in  1755  ; and  it  is  a singular  fact  that,  20  years 
after,  nearly  every  person  of  Winslow’s  lineage  was,  for  political  reasons,  by  the 
force  of  events,  transplanted  to  the  very  soil  from  which  the  Acadians  were  ex- 
pelled.” 

After  Marshfield  are  the  stations  Webster  Place , Duxbury  (Hollis 
House),  and  S.  Duxbury. 

Duxbury  was  allotted  to  John  Alden  (youngest  of  the  Pilgrims,  whose  great 
grandson  commanded  the  7th  Mass.  Continental  Regt. , and  was  killed  in  battle  at 
Cherry  Valley),  and  to  Miles  Standish.  The  Bradfords  also  settled  here,  and  Alden 
Bradford,  the  author,  and  Gamaliel  Bradford,  colonel  of  the  14tli  Mass.  Regt.  through 
the  war  for  independence,  were  born  here.  Duxbury  was  so  named  from  its  be- 
ing the  home  of  the  military  chief  (dux)  of  the  colony.  Standish  lived  on  Cap- 
tain’s Hill,  in  S.  Duxbury,  a far-viewing  eminence  180  ft.  high,  and  sur- 
rounded on  3 sides  by  the  waters  of  the  Bay.  In  Oct.,  1872,  imposing  cere- 
monies were  held  on  this  hill,  and  a costly  monument  (to  be  finished  late  in 
1873)  was  dedicated  to  the  Pilgrim  soldier.  A fine  view  of  Plymouth  and  the 


BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH.  Route  5.  51 


ocean  (and  of  Cape  Cod  in  clear  weather)  is  enjoyed  from  Captain’s  Hill.  Miles 
Standish,  a veteran  of  the  Flanders  campaigns,  came  over  with  the  Pilgrims,  and 
was  made  the  head  of  their  armies  (consisting  of  12  men),  although  he  did  not 
belong  to  their  church.  He  was  a short  man,  very  brave,  but  impetuous  and 
choleric,  and  his  name  soon  became  a terror  to  all  hostile  Indians.  He  is  the 
hero  of  a beautiful  poem  in  nine  parts,  by  Longfellow,  called  “ The  Courtship  of 
Miles  Standish.” 

Ralph  Partridge,  the  first  pastor  of  Duxbury,  “had  the  innocence  of  a dove  and 
the  loftiness  of  an  eagle.  His  epitaph  is  ‘ Avolavit.’  ” — Mather. 

The  Standish  House  is  on  the  harhor  some  distance  from  the  S. 
Duxbury  Station.  Its  still-water  bathing  is  good.  From  Duxbury  Post 
Office  to  Plymouth,  by  the  main  road,  is  9 M.  At  Duxbury  is  the 
American  end  of  the  French  Atlantic  Telegraph. 


5.  Boston  to  Plymouth. 

Via  Old  Colony  Railroad,  37J  M.,  in  If  hrs. 

Boston  to  S.  Braintree , see  Route  3.  Stations,  S.  Weymouth , N. 
Abington  (Culver  House),  Abington,  S.  Abington  (Wheeler  House), 
the  last  three  stations  being  in  a town  of  about  10,000  inhabitants, 
who  are  mostly  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  shoes.  The  line  now 
approaches  the  great  lake-strewn  forest  of  the  Old  Colony,  passing 
the  stations  of  N.  Hanson , Hanson,  Halifax,  Fly mp  ton,  and  Kings- 
ton (Patuxet  House,  with  daily  stage  to  N.  Carver).  The  train  now 
passes  along  the  W.  shore  of  Plymouth  Harbor,  with  Captain’s  Hill 
(Duxbury)  prominent  on  the  1.  across  the  water. 

Plymouth.,  Umpame,  or  Patuxet.  (Samoset  House,  a large  and  comfortable 
hotel,  near  the  R.  R.  station.  $ 1.50  to  $2a  day). 

Elizabeth,  Queen  of  England,  in  1558  - 62,  put  into  operation  the  Acts  of  Su- 
premacy and  Uniformity,  and  the  Articles  of  Religion,  sternly  forbidding  all  forms 
of  religious  worship  within  her  realm,  save  those  prescribed  by  the  Church  of 
England,  of  which  she  was  the  head.  Almost  simultaneously  a sect  sprang  up, 
claiming  that  the  Anglican  Church  still  retained  many  of  the  errors  of  Roman 
Catholicism  ; while,  in  opposition  to  the  Queen’s  primacy  and  ecclesiastical  laws, 
they  maintained  that  the  church  was  spiritual,  governed  by  the  laws  of  Christ 
given  in  the  New  Testament,  and  separate  from  temporal  affairs  and  independent 
of  earthly  sovereigns.  Hence  they  were  called  Separatists  (sometimes  Brown- 
ists).  They  were  imprisoned  and  martyred  by  the  government,  and  in  1598  many 
fled  to  Holland.  Churches  existed  at  Southwark  and  elsewhere,  but  the  true 
birthplace  of  the  Pilgrim  Church  (if  not  at  Jerusalem)  was  at  the  deserted  “ Manor 
of  the  Bishops  ” (of  York)  at  Scrooby.  Bancroft,  the  new  primate,  redoubled  the 
persecutions,  in  1602,  and  in  1608  the  church  at  Scrooby  ran  the  blockade  of  the 
English  coast,  and  went  to  Amsterdam.  In  1609  the  Pilgrims  moved  to  Leyden, 
and  in  1620  sailed  from  Delfthaven,  via  Southampton,  for  America.  On  Sept. 
6,  the  “Mayflower,”  previously  driven  back  by  adverse  circumstances,  left  Ply- 
mouth in  England,  intending  to  reach  land  and  settle  near  the  Hudson  River.  By 
treachery  or  otherwise  they  struck  the  continent  far  north  of  this  point,  and  on 
the  21st  Dec.,  1620,  the  Pilgrims  landed  at  New  Plymouth.  Capt.  Smith  was 
severely  attacked  here  by  the  Indians  in  1614,  and  Standish’s  rude  forays  on 
Cape  Cod  had  enraged  the  aborigines,  but  the  Wampanoag  tribe,  which  in  1616 
numbered  30,000  souls,  had  been  reduced  by  a great  war,  followed  by  a pestilence, 
to  a remnant  of  300.  By  the  latter  part  of  March,  44  Pilgrims  had  died,  and  then 
the  Sachem  Massasoit  made  an  alliance  with  the  dwindling  colony.  In  1622  a 
massive  structure  was  erected  for  a church,  with  a battlemented  roof  and  ord- 
nance, which  made  it  the  castle  of  the  village.  In  1621  and  1623  other  companies 


52  Route  5. 


BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH. 


of  Pilgrims  crossed  the  sea,  after  which  the  colony  throve  and  occupied  the  neigh- 
boring lands.  In  March,  1621,  Samoset  and  Tisquantum  came  in  and  told  them 
of -the  land  (the  latter  having  been  stolen  by  Hunt,  in  1614,  from  the  coast,  and 
sold  at  Malaga  as  a slave).  In  1624,  the  first  cattle  ever  in  New  England  were 
landed  here,  and  in  the  same  year  Plymouth  was  found  to  consist  of  32  houses, 
surrounded  by  a high  palisade  with  fortified  gates.  Canonicus,  chief  of  the  Narra- 
gansetts,  sent  a sheaf  of  arrows  bound  with  a rattlesnake’s  skin,  to  Gov. 
Bradford,  as  a token  of  hostility.  The  skin  was  filled  with  powder  and  shot,  and 
sent  back  to  Canonicus,  who  understood  this  grim  answer,  and  as  long  as  he  lived 
restrained  his  tribe  from  attacking  the  colony.  As  one  of  the  United  Colonies, 
Plymouth  bore  her  part  in  the  Indian  wars,  until  it  finally  joined  the  colony  of 
Massachusetts  Bay,  in  1692. 

“ Methinks  I see  it  now,  that  one,  solitary,  adventurous  vessel,  the  ‘Mayflower,’ 
of  a forlorn  hope,  freighted  with  the  prospects  of  a future  state,  and  bound  across 
the  unknown  sea.  I behold  it  pursuing,  with  a thousand  misgivings,  the  uncer- 
tain, the  tedious  voyage.  Suns  rise  and  set,  and  weeks  and  months  pass,  and 
winter  surprises  them  on  the  deep,  but  brings  them  not  the  sight  of  the  wished- 
for  shore.  I see  them  now  scantily  supplied  with  provisions,  crowded  almost  to 
suffocation  in  their  ill-stored  prison,  delayed  by  calms,  pursuing  a circuitous  route  ; 
and  now  driven  in  fury  before  the  raging  tempest  on  the  high  and  giddy  waves. 
....  The  awful  voice  of  the  storm  howls  through  the  rigging.  The  laboring 
masts  seem  straining  from  their  base  ; the  dismal  sound  of  the  pumps  is  heard  ; 
the  ship  leaps,  as  it  were,  madly,  from  billow  to  billow  ; the  ocean  breaks  and 
settles  with  engulfing  floods  over  the  floating  deck,  and  beats  with  deadening, 
shivering  weight  against  the  staggered  vessel.  I see  them,  escaped  from  these 
perils,  pursuing  their  all  but  desperate  undertaking,  and  landed  at  last,  after  a five 
months’  passage,  on  the  ice-clad  rocks  of  Plymouth,  weak  and  weary  from  the 
voyage,  poorly  armed,  . . . without  shelter,  without  means,  surrounded  by  hos- 
tile tribes Tell  me,  man  of  military  science,  in  how  many  months  were 

they  all  swept  away  by  the  30  savage  tribes  of  New  England  ? Tell  me,  politician, 
how  long  did  this  shadow  of  a colony,  on  which  your  conventions  and  treaties  had 
not  smiled,  languish  on  the  distant  coast  ? ....  Is  it  possible,  that,  from  a be- 
ginning so  feeble,  so  frail,  so  worthy  not  so  much  of  admiration  as  of  pity,  there 
has  gone  forth  a progress  so  steady,  a growth  so  wonderful,  an  exjjansion  so 
ample,  a reality  so  important,  a promise,  yet  to  be  fulfilled,  so  glorious  ? ” — Ed- 
ward Everett. 

See  also  Mrs.  Hemans’  inimitable  hymn,  beginning, 

“ The  breaking  waves  dashed  high 
On  a stern  and  rock-bound  coast, 

When  a band  of  exiles  moored  their  bark 
By  the  wild  New  England  shore.” 

On  Court  St.  is  the  classic  * Pilgrim  Eall,  in  front  of  which  is  a rock 
of  gray  sienitic  granite,  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence.  This  is  “the  cor- 
ner-stone of  the  Republic,”  a portion  of  the  rock  on  which  the  Pilgrims 
first  stepped  from  their  boats,  and  which  was  drawn  from  the  water- 
side in  1775. 

The  Pilgrim  Hall  (open  daily)  contains  “The  Landing  of  the  Pilgrims,” 
a large  painting  of  much  interest  (13  x 16  ft.),  and  nine  portraits  ; busts 
of  Daniel  Webster  and  John  Adams  ; Governor  Carver’s  chair  ; sword, 
&c.,  of  Miles  Standish  ; the  gun-barrel  with  which  King  Philip  was 
killed,  and  a letter  from  King  Philip  ; embroidery  by  Lorea  Standish ; 
and  a great  number  of  relics  of  the  early  colonists,  with  an  elegant  model 
of  the  monument  which  is  to  be. 

The  principal  ledge  of  * Forefathers’  Rock  is  on  Water  St.,  and  is 
covered  by  a singular  edifice  (canopy)  of  granite,  in  whose  attic  has  been 
placed  the  bones  of  several  men  who  died  in  the  winter  of  1620-1. 


BOSTON  TO  PLYMOUTH. 


Route  5.  53 


Town  Green  is  at  the  end  of  Main  Street.  On  the  site  of  the  present 
Gothic  Unitarian  Church  older  churches  were  built  in  the  first  days. 
The  remarkably  homely  Church  of  the  Pilgrimage  (Cong.)  stands  near 
by.  Opposite  this  church  is  the  Town  Hall,  built  in  1749.  To  the 
r.  of  the  Unitarian  Church  is  the  path  to  the  * Burying  Hill,  where 
many  of  the  Pilgrims  were  interred.  Ancient  and  moss-covered  tomb- 
stones cover  the  green  slopes,  with  here  and  there  more  pretentious  mon- 
uments, as  those  to  Gov.  Bradford,  Elder  Cushman,  and  others.  In 
1622,  the  embattled  church  was  built  on  this  hill,  with  six  cannon  on  its 
sheltered  fiat  roof.  Every  man  brought  his  gun  and  ammunition  to 
church,  and  sentinels,  on  a tower,  watched  incessantly.  The  * view  from 
Burying  Hill  is  fine,  embracing  the  harbors  of  Plymouth  and  Duxbury, 
Captain’s  Hill,  Cape  Cod,  Manomet  Hills,  &c.  Leyden  St.,  the  first 
street  in  New  England,  runs  E.  from  Town  Square  to  the  water.  Near 
the  foot  of  Middle  St.  and  W.  of  the  canopy-covered  rock,  is  a small 
green  space  called  Cole’s  Hill,  where  were  buried  50  of  the  Mayflower 
company  (including  Gov.  Carver),  in  1620-21.  Near  the  Pilgrim 
Hall  are  the  handsome  County  buildings ; and  on  Training  Green, 
near  the  High  School,  is  a monument  to  the  town’s  soldiers  who  died  in 
the  War  for  the  Union.  Behind  the  High  School  is  Watson’s  Hill,  where 
Massasoit  appeared  in  March,  1621,  with  60  warriors,  and  concluded  a 
league  with  the  handful  of  Pilgrims  which  was  sacredly  kept  for  50  years. 
Billington  Sea,  one  of  the  two  hundred  ponds  which  are  in  the  vast 
Plymouth  Forest  (“ the  Adirondacks  of  Massachusetts”),  is  about  2 M. 
from  the  village,  and  is  4|  M.  around.  About  3 M.  S.  of  Plymouth  is 
the  Clifford  House,  a favorite  summer  resort.  S.  W.  of  Plymouth  is 
the  lofty  promontory  of  Manomet,  near  which  is  the  village  (hotel)  of 
Manomet  Ponds.  A strip  of  sand  3 M.  long  forms  a natural  breakwater 
before  the  town,  on  which,  in  Dec.,  1779,  the  war-ship  “Gen.  Arnold” 
was  wrecked,  and  70  men  frozen  to  death  on  her  decks.  In  the  N.  part 
of  the  harbor  is  Clark’s  Island,  where  the  Pilgrims  remained  Dec.  9th 
and  10th,  1620.  Beyond  are  the  prominent  points  of  Saquish  and  the 
Gurnet,  on  the  latter  of  which  is  a lighthouse. 

On  a high  hill  near  the  Samoset  House  9 acres  of  land  have  been  bought,  and 
1,500  tons  of.granite  laid  as  foundation  for  a National  Monument  to  the  Fore- 
fathers. On  an  octagonal  pedestal  of  granite  40  ft.  high,  will  stand  a statue  of 
Faith,  also  40  ft.  high  (the  “ Bavaria”  at  Munich  is  42  ft.  high).  Her  right  hand 
is  uplifted,  and  her  left  holds  a Bible.  On  pedestals  about  the  base  will  be  four 
sitting  statues  representing  the  cardinal  principles  of  the  Pilgrim  commonwealth, 
— Morality,  Law,  Education,  and  Freedom.  Each  of  these  is  to  be  20  ft.  high, 
with  8 statues  in  niched  panels  by  their  thrones,  each  of  which  will  be  9 ft.  high. 
Historical  records  and  bas-reliefs  will  adorn  the  sides  of  the  pedestal,  and  an  in- 
ternal stairway  will  lead  to  the  feet  of  Faith.  Statues,  pedestal,  and  all,  are  to  be 
of  granite. 


54  Route  6. 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  COD. 


6.  Boston  to  Cape  Cod. 

Via  Old  Colony  R.  R.,  Boston  to  Wellfleet,  106  miles,  in  4J  - 5 hours.  Fare, 
$3.05.  Two  trains  daily.  Boston  to  S.  Braintree,  see  Route  3. 

Station,  Holbrook , with  a pretty  little  Victoria  Gothic  Town  Hall. 
Station,  E.  Stoughton,  after  which  the  line  passes  through  a district 
which  illustrates  the  poverty  of  the  American  mind  in  the  matter  of 
naming  towns.  Four  towns,  each  containing  many  square  miles,  are 
named  respectively,  N.  Bridgewater,  W.  Bridgewater,  E.  Bridgewater , 
and  Bridgewater.  Stations,  N.  Bridgewater  (Standish  House),  Camjpello, 
Keith's,  E.  and  W.  Bridgewater . 

Bridgewater,  Sawtucket  (Hyland  House),  was  bought  of  the  Indians 
by  Miles  Standish  in  1645.  In  1740,  Hugh  Orr,  a Scotchman,  erected  a 
trip-hammer  here,  and  in  1748  made  500  muskets  for  the  Province 
of  Massachusetts,  the  same  being  the  first  made  in  this  country.  During 
the  Devolution,  he  made  great  numbers  of  iron  and  brass  cannon,  and 
cannon-balls  for  the  continental  army. 

A branch  railroad,  7 miles  long,  runs  from  Bridgewater  to  S.  Abington, 
on  the  Plymouth  Branch  R.  R.  Stations,  Titicut  and  Middleboro  (Ne* 
masket  House),  a prosperous  town  (of  about  5,000  inhabitants),  where 
several  railways  unite. 

Between  S.  Braintree  and  Fall  River  the  Old  Colony  R.  R.  has  two  divisions, 
eastern  and  western,  several  miles  apart.  On  the  western  division  (the  shorter 
of  the  two)  the  steamboat  trains  run,  while  the  eastern  division,  running  E.  of  S. 
from  Boston  to  Middleboro,  here  turns  sharply  to  the  S.  W.  to  Fall  River  and 
Newport.  From  Middleboro  to  Fall  River  by  the  main  (eastern)  line  is  14  M.f 
passing  stations  Lakeville,  Myrick’s,  and  Assonet.  At  Myrick’s,  the  New  Bedford 
and  Taunton  R.  R.  crosses  the  Old  Colony  R.  R.  (Myrick’s  to  New'  Bedford  in  \ 
hr.).  A railroad  runs  from  Middleboro  to  Taunton  direct,  a distance  of  10£ 
M.  (fare  40  c.),  passing  the  stations  Lakeville,  Chace’s,  E.  Taunton,  and  Weir.  3-4 
M.  S.  of  Middleboro  is  a cluster  of  great  ponds,  abounding  in  fish.  Asowamsett 
Pond  (Lakeville  House)  is  the  largest  sheet  of  fresh  water  in  the  State,  and  con- 
tains 6-8  square  miles.  On  its  shores  Capt.  Dermer  was  received  by  the  Wam- 
panoag  sachems  in  1619,  and  here  the  anti-English  chief,  Corbitant,  revolted 
against  Massasoit,  in  1621,  and  seized  the  Plymouth  envoys.  Standish  promptly 
marched  forth,  fell  upon  Corbitant’s  camp  by  night,  and  achieved  success  in  the 
first  warlike  expedition  made  from  Plymouth. 

The  Cape  Cod  Division  of  the  O.  C.  R.  R.  begins  at  Middleboro. 
Stations,  Rock,  S.  Middleboro,  and  Tremont,  or  W.  Wareham. 

From  Tremont  the  Fairhaven  Branch  runs  to  New  Bedford  (16  M.),  passing  the 
stations  Marion,  Mattapoisett,  and  Fairhaven.  3 M.  S.  of  Marion  station  (Old 
Landing),  passing  Sippican  village,  is  White  House  Beach,  fronting  on  Sippican 
Harbor.  3-4  M.  from  Marion  station  is  a high  promontory,  surrounded  on  three 
sides  by  Buzzards  Bay  and  Wing’s  Cove,  on  which  is  a favorite  summer  hotel,  the 
Great  Hill  House.  Mattapoisett  (Mattapoisett  House)  is  a small  village  near 
Buzzards  Bay,  with  fine  water-views  and  large  inland  forests.  The  fishing  in  the 
inlets  is  fine. 

After  passing  Tremont  station,  on  the  Cape  Cod  R.  R.,  the  line 
passes  through  the  town  of  Wareham,  the  northern  inlets  of  Buzzards 
Bay  being  often  seen  on  the  r.  Stations,  S.  Wareham,  Wareham  (Ken- 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  COD. 


Route  6.  55 


drick’s  Hotel),  E.  Wareham,  and  Cohasset  Narrows,  where  is  the  junction 
of  the  R.  R for  Falmouth,  Martha’s  Vineyard,  &c.  (See  Route  7.) 
Soon  after,  the  Straits  between  Buzzards  and  Buttermilk  Bays  are  crossed, 
and  then  follow  the  stations,  Monument,  N.  Sandwich,  W.  Sandwich, 
and  Sandwich.  “ The  Cape  extends  E.  from  Sandwich  35  M.,  and  thence 
N.  and  N.  W.  30  more,  in  all  65,  and  has  an  average  breadth  of  5 M.” 
It  is  nearly  all  sand,  with  boulders  dropped  on  it  here  and  there.  Hitch- 
cock thinks  that  the  ocean  has  eaten  out  Boston  Harbor,  and  other  bays, 
and  built  Cape  Cod  of  the  minute  fragments.  A thin  layer  of  soil 
reaches  as  far  as  Truro;  “but  there  are  many  holes  and  rents  in  this 
weather-beaten  garment  not  likely  to  be  stitched  in  time,  which  reveal 
the  naked  flesh  of  the  Cape,  and  its  extremity  is  completely  bare.” 

It  is  believed  that  the  shores  of  Cape  Cod  are  the  Furdustrandas  (Wonder- 
Strands)  discovered  by  Thorhall,  the  Norseman,  in  the  year  1007.  (“When  they 
were  ready,  and  their  sail  hoisted,  Thorhall  sang  : Let  us  return  where  our  people 
are.  Let  us  make  a bird  (vessel),  skilful  to  fly  through  the  heaven  of  sand,  to  ex- 
plore the  broad  track  of  ships  ; while  warriors  who  impel  to  the  tempest  of 
swords,  who  praise  the  land,  inhabit  Wonder-Strands,  and  cook  whales.”)  In 
1524,  Verrazzani,  in  the  frigate  “Dauphin,”  coasted  about  Cape  Cod,  which  is 
probably  his  “ Cape  Arenas,”  and  in  1525,  the  Portuguese  mariner  Gomez,  explored 
and  mapped  much  of  southern  New  England.  The  first  Anglo-Saxon  in  New 
England  was  Capt.  Gosnold,  who  coasted  and  named  Cape  Cod  in  the  year  1602, 
having  caught  many  codfish  thereabouts,  and  landed  at  different  points. 

In  1604,  Champlain  visited  this  locality,  and  named  it  Cap  Blanc  (White  Cape), 
because  the  sand  contrasted  so  with  the  dark  rocks  of  the  northern  coasts.  A 
harbor  on  the  S.  E.  he  named  Mallebarre,  which  name  still  clings  to  the  S.  E. 
Cape.  In  1609,  Hendrick  Hudson,  with  a vessel  of  the  Dutch  E.  I.  Company, 
rediscovered  Cape  Cod,  naming  it  New  Holland,  and  found  a mermaid  near  by, 
concerning  which  (or  whom)  he  gives  a curious  account.  In  1614,  Capt.  John 
Smith  visited  the  Cape,  and  describes  it  as  “a  headland  of  high  hills  of  sand, 
overgrown  with  shrubby  pines,  hurts,  and  such  trash,  but  an  excellent  harbor  for 
all  weather.”  Prince  Charles,  his  patron,  named  it  Cape  James,  but  the  name 
did  not  take.  About  this  time  the  infamous  Capt.  Hunt  kidnapped  a ship-load 
of  Indians  from  the  coast,  so  when  Harlow  landed  at  the  Cape  late  in  1614,  he 
was  attacked,  and  only  escaped  (with  loss)  by  cannonading  the  attacking  flotilla 
of  canoes.  In  1616,  a French  ship  grounded  or  anchored  near  the  Cape,  was  car- 
ried by  boarding,  and  the  Indians  killed  all  on  board  save  four,  whom  they  sent 
far  and  wide  through  the  country  as  curious  trophies.  The  horrible  pestilence 
which  immediately  after  passed  over  Massachusetts,  was  attributed  by  the  Indian 
doctors  to  this  fact.  In  1620,  the  vanguard  of  the  Pilgrims  appeared  in  one  of 
the  Cape  harbors,  and  erelong  many  villages  sprang  up  here.  In  1623,  the  blame- 
less chiefs,  Cawnacome,  Sachem  of  Manomet  (Sandwich),  A spinet  of  Nauset 
(Chatham),  and  Iyanough  of  Cummaquid  (Barnstable),  were  with  the  council  at 
Weymouth  when  Standish  made  his  attack.  They  escaped  and  hid  in  the  swamps 
of  the  Cape,  where  they  soon  died  of  sorrow  and  privation,  and  too  late  it  was 
proven  that  they  were  perfectly  innocent.  Notwithstanding  their  unfavorable 
experiences  of  Christian  civilization,  the  Cape  Indians  passed  under  its  influehce, 
and  soon  6 Indian  churches  and  18  assemblies,  with  24  native  pastors,  were  num- 
bered there.  Consequently,  at  the  outbreak  of  the  war  of  1675,  they  repudiated 
their  ancient  allegiance  to  King  Philip,  and  remained  faithful  to  the  colonists. 

Sandwich  (Central  House)  is  a village  near  the  S.  edge  of  the  Plymouth 
Forest,  and  distant  12  M.  from  Plymouth.  The  extensive  glass-works 
are  near  the  station. 

From  W.  Barnstable  station  stages  run  to  Cotuit  Port,  “the  home  of 
genial  sportsmen,”  6-7  M.  distant,  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  Cape.  The 


56  Route  6. 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  COD. 


highlands  about  the  little  harbor  on  which  the  village  is  situated  are 
partly 'clothed  with  pine  woods  and  interspersed  with  many  fresh  ponds. 
The  Santuit  House,  near  the  beaches  on  the  S.  shore,  is  much  visited  in 
summer.  Barnstable  is  a quiet  village  with  the  county  buildings. 

On  Great  Neck,  in  Marshpee  (Massapee),  a few  M.  W.  of  Cotuit  Port,  was  the 
chief  village  of  the  Cape  Indians  who  dwelt  on  this  reservation.  In  1658,  Rich- 
ard Bourne  went  there  as  a missionary,  and  formed  a church  of  which  he  was 
pastor  until  his  death  in  1685.  Before  King  Philip’s  War  there  were  10,000 
Christian  Indians  in  New  England.  Many  of  these,  including  scores  of  the  Mas- 
sapees,  were  killed  fighting  for  their  white  brethren,  or  else,  remaining  neutral, 
were  treated  pitilessly  by  the  colonists.  Nearly  every  man  of  the  Massapees 
joined  the  1st  Mass.  Reg.  in  1775,  and  but  few  returned.  Gideon  Hawley  (Yale 
College,  1749)  preached  here  1758-1807.  In  1802,  the  last  pure-blooded  Indian 
died.  So  many  of  the  men  died  in  the  War  for  Independence,  that  negroes  joined 
the  tribe,  and  it  is  now  a collection  of  Indo-African  half-breeds.  In  1834,  in 
response  to  their  “ Bill  of  Complaints”  signed  by  287  persons,  the  State  granted 
them  limited  powers  of  autonomy.  In  1850,  about  200  persons  were  left  on  the 
reservation. 

Yarmouth  is  coeval  with  Barnstable.  Near  it  is  a favorite  Methodist 
camp-ground.  A branch  R.  R.  runs  from  Yarmouth  to  Hyannis  (Iya- 
nough  House),  the  point  of  departure  for  the  steamers  to  Nantucket  (30 
miles).  Extensive  beaches  bordered  by  blulfs  covered  with  groves  are 
near  Hyannis. 

Stations,  S.  Yarmouth,  S.  Dennis,  not  far  from  Scargo  Hill,  the  highest 
land  on  the  Cape,  from  which  a noble  ocean  view  is  alforded.  Stations, 
N.  Harwich , Harwich  (Central  House,  Atlantic),  the  ancient  home  of 
the  Satucket  Indians. 

Brewster  (Ocean  House,  Union  House),  was  named  in  honor  of  Elder 
Brewster,  of  the  Mayflower  Pilgrims.  Large  and  singular  boulders  are 
found  here.  Many  sailors  and  captains  belong  in  this  town,  and  Orleans 
(Higgins  House)  and  Eastham,  which  was  settled  by  the  Pilgrims  in  1644, 
under  the  lead  of  Thomas  Prince,  who  was  for  sixteen  years  govern- 
or of  Plymouth.  A fortified  church,  twenty  ft.  square,  was  built,  and 
a part  of  every  stranded  whale  was  by  law  reserved  for  the  ministry. 

At  Millennium  Grove  in  this  town  were  long  held  extensive  camp-meet- 
ings. The  line  now  passes,  on  the  E.,  the  broad,  sandy  plains  of  Nauset. 
Stations,  N.  Eastham  (Nauset  House),  S.  Wellfieet,  Wellfieet  (Holbrook’s 
Hotel).  Wellfieet  Bay  opens  on  Cape  Cod  Bay  (the  Baye  Blanche  of 
Champlain),  and  is  distant  from  Boston  106  M.  by  R.  R.  and  70  M.  by 
water.  This  village  has  100  vessels  and  nearly  1,000  men  in  the  mackerel 
fishery.  The  railroad  ends  at  Wellfieet,  and  stages  connect  with  it  for 
Provincetown,  although  it  is  said  that  late  in  1873  a through  track  will 
be  laid.  North  of  Wellfieet  is  Truro,  a large,  desolate  district,  on 
one  of  whose  beaches  the  British  frigate  u Somerset  ” was  wrecked  in 
1778,  and  480  men  made  prisoners.  Near  Wellfieet,  in  1718,  the  “ Whi- 
dah,”  a pirate-sliip  mounting  23  guns,  was  wrecked,  and  130  buccaneers 
were  drowned.  Truro  was  settled  in  1700,  under  the  name  of  Danger- 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  COD. 


Route  6.  57 


field,  as  it  has  perhaps  the  most  fatal  coast  in  New  England.  Scores  of 
vessels  have  been  dashed  in  pieces  on  its  shore,  and  hundreds  of  lives 
have  been  lost.  There  is  scarcely  a family  in  Truro,  or  indeed  on  the 
whole  Cape  E.  of  Barnstable,  but  has  lost  some  member  by  the  disasters 
of  the  sea.  Truro  lost  57  men  and  7 vessels,  and  Dennis  lost  28  men  in 
one  day  of  1841.  The  lofty  Fresnel  burners  of  the  famous  Highland 
Light  (at  Clay  Pounds  on  the  outer  shore  of  Truro)  shed  a vivid  radiance 
over  leagues  of  rude  coast  and  deep  sea. 

Thoreau  walked  from  Orleans  to  Provincetown  (several  days)  on  the  ocean  side 
of  this  “sand-bar  in  the  midst  of  the  sea,”  and  says  : — 

“ The  nearest  beach  to  ns  on  the  east  was  on  the  coast  of  Galicia,  in  Spain, 
whose  capital  is  Santiago,  though  by  old  poets’  reckoning  it  should  have  been 
Atlantis  or  the  Hesperides  ; but  heaven  is  found  to  be  farther  west  now.  At  first 
we  were  abreast  of  that  part  of  Portugal  entre  Douro  e Mino,  and  then  Galicia 
and  the  port  of  Pontevedro  opened  to  us  as  we  walked  along  ; but  we  did  not  en- 
ter, the  breakers  ran  so  high.  The  bold  headland  of  Cape  Finisterre,  a little  north 
of  east,  jutted  toward  us  next,  with  its  vain  brag,  for  we  flung  back,  — ‘ Here  is 
Cape  Cod,  Cape  Land’s  Beginning.’  A little  indentation  toward  the  north  — for 
the  land  loomed  to  our  imaginations  like  a common  mirage — we  knew  was  the 
Bay  of  Biscay,  and  we  sang  : 

‘ There  we  lay  till  next  day, 

In  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  O ! ’ ” 

“A  little  south  of  east  was  Palos,  where  Columbus  weighed  anchor,  and  farther 
yet  the  pillars  which  Hercules  set  up.” 

Truro  is  “a  village  where  its  able-bodied  men  are  all  ploughing  the  ocean 
together  as  a common  field.  In  N.  Truro  the  women  and  girls  may  sit  at  their 
doors  and  see  where  their  husbands  and  brothers  are  harvesting  their  mackerel 
15-20  M.  off,  on- the  sea,  with  hundreds  of  white  harvest-wagons.” 

The  2nd  Mass.  Continental  Reg.  marched  from  this  E.  end  of  the  Cape,  and 
fought  through  the  Revolution. 

In  Nov.,  1620,  Standish  and  16  men,  “with  musket,  sword,  and  corslet,” 
landed  at  Long  Point,  Provincetown,  chased  the  unresisting  Indians  into  Truro, 
pillaged  many  graves,  and  carried  off  everything  portable.  They  were  attacked  in 
Eastham,  by  Indians,  but  the  arrows  fell  harmlessly  from  their  corslets,  while 
the  musket- shot  told  on  the  half-clad  red  men. 

Provincetown  (Allstrum  House,  Central  House)  is  a curious  ma- 
rine village,  distant  from  Boston  118  M.  by  land  and  55  M.  by  water 
(steamer  leaves  Central  Wharf,  Boston,  Wednesday  and  Saturday  morn- 
ings, returning  on  Monday  and  Thursday  mornings.  Fare  $1.50). 

The  Harbor  is  a noble  one,  broad  and  clear,  and  is  the  favorite  refuge 
of  the  fishing  fleets.  The  energies  of  the  townsmen  are  devoted  to  the 
fisheries  — of  mackerel,  cod,  and  sperm-whales,  in  whose  pursuit  they 
search  the  wildest  and  most  distant  banks  and  bays  of  the  N.  Atlantic. 
The  village  lies  along  the  beach  between  the  sea  and  the  desert,  — an  in- 
habited beach,  where  fishermen  cure  and  store  their  fish,  without  any 
back  country. 

This  is  the  last  town  in  that  strange  region  where  the  people  “ are  said  to  be 
more  purely  the  descendants  of  the  Puritans  than  the  inhabitants  of  any  other 
part  of  the  State.”  From  these  shores  come  the  most  daring  and  skilful  of 
American  seamen.  “Wherever  over  the  world  you  see  the  stars  and  stripes  float- 
ing, you  may  have  good  hope  that  beneath  them  some  one  will  be  found  who  can 
tell  you  the  soundings  of  Barnstable,  or  Wellfleet,  or  Chatham  Harbor.”  “ Cape 


58  Route  7.  BOSTON  TO  MARTHA’S  VINEYARD 


Cod  is  the  hare  and  bended  arm  of  Massachusetts  ; the  shoulder  is  at  Buzzards 
Bay  ; the  elbow,  or  crazy-bone,  at  Cape  Malebarre  ; the  wrist  at  Truro,  and  the 
sandy  fist  at  Provincetown,  behind  which  the  State  stands  on  her  guard,  with 
her  back  to  the  Green  Mts.,  and  her  feet  planted  on  the  floor  of  the  Ocean,  like 
an  athlete,  — protecting  her  Bay,  boxing  with  N.  E.  storms,  and,  ever  and  anon, 
heaving  up  her  Atlantic  adversary  from  the  lap  of  earth,  ready  to  thrust  for- 
ward her  other  fist,  which  keeps  guard  the  while  upon  her  breast  at  Cape  Ann.” 

The  era  of  constitutional  government  dawned  upon  the  world,  when,  on  Nov. 
11,  1620,  the  storm-tossed  Mayflower  anchored  in  Provincetown  Harbor.  Here, 
“on  the  bleak  shores  of  a barren  wilderness,  in  the  midst  of  desolation,  with 
the  blast  of  winter  howling  around  them,  and  surrounded  with  dangers  in 
their  most  awful  and  appalling  forms,  the  Pilgrims  of  Leyden  laid  the  foundations 
of  American  liberty.”  While  the  Mayflower  lay  in  this  harbor,  that  celebrated 
compact  was  drawn  up  and  signed,  which  long  governed  Plymouth  and  her  de- 
pendencies, and  of  which  J.  Q.  Adams  says  : “ This  is,  perhaps,  the  only  instance 
in  human  history  of  that  positive  original  social  compact  which  speculative 
philosophers  have  imagined  as  the  only  legitimate  source  of  government.”  This 
solemn  compact  (given  below)  was  signed  by  41  men  (of  whom  21  died  in  the  next 
four  months),  17  of  whom  had  their  wives  with  them,  the  remaining  43  persons 
being  young  people  and  children. 

“In  the  name  of  God,  Amen.  We,  whose  names  are  underwritten,  the  loyal 
subjects  of  our  dread  sovereign  lord.  King  James,  by  the  grace  of  God,  of  Great 
Britain,  France,  and  Ireland,  King,  defender  of  the  faith,  &c.,  having  undertaken, 
for  the  glory  of  God,  and  advancement  of  the  Christian  faith,  and  honor  of  our 
king  and  country,  a voyage  to  plant  the  first  colony  in  the  northern  parts  of  Vir- 
ginia, do,  by  these  presents,  solemnly  and  mutually,  in  the  presence  of  God  and 
of  one  another,  covenant  and  combine  ourselves  together  into  a civil  body  politic, 
for  our  better  ordering  and  preservation,  and  furtherance  of  the  ends  aforesaid  ; 
and  by  virtue  hereof  to  enact,  constitute,  and  frame  such  just  and  equal  laws, 
ordinances,  acts,  constitutions,  and  offices,  from  time  to  time,  as  shall  be  thought 
most  meet  and  expedient  for  the  general  good  of  the  colony ; unto  which  we 
promise  all  due  submission  and  obedience.  In  witness  whereof  we  have  hereun- 
der inscribed  our  names,  at  Cape  Cod,  the  11th  of  November,  in  the  year  of  the 
reign  of  our  soverign  lord,  King  James,  of  England,  France,  and  Ireland,  the 
18th,  and  of  Scotland  the  54th,  Anno  Domini,  1620.” 


7.  Boston  to  Martha’s  Vineyard  and  Nantucket. 

Via  Old  Colony  R.  R.  and  Steamers.  To  Martha’s  Vineyard  80  M.,  in  3J-4 
hours. 

New  York  to  Martha’s  Vineyard  and  Nantucket.  To  Fall  River  by  steam- 
boat (Route  3),  thence  to  Myrick’s  (not  by  the  steamboat  train,  but  later).  Thence 
to  New  Bedford,  and  from  there  by  steamboat  to  Martha’s  Vineyard  (in  all,  225 
M.). 

Boston  to  Cohasset  Narrows  see  Route  6.  After  Cohasset  Narrows , the 
line  runs  due  S.  for  18  M.,  on  the  E.  shore  of  Buzzards  Bay,  passing  sta- 
tions, N.  Falmouth  (near  which  is  Pocasset,  abounding  in  shell-fish,  with 
the  Red-Brook  House  and  Bay  View  Cottage,)  W.  Falmouth,  and  Fal- 
mouth, a quiet  old  port,  which  had  “ kept  on  the  back  side  of  the  Cape, 
and  let  the  centuries  go  by  ” until  1872,  when  the  railroad  aroused  it. 
Near  the  village  on  the  S.  E.  are  Falmouth  Heights,  where  a company  of 
Worcester  men,  in  1870,  bought  120  acres  of  land  (with  two  small  lakes, 
several  groves,  and  a mile  of  beach),  to  be  cut  up  into  lots  for  a summer 
village.  Tower’s  Hotel,  100  ft.  long  (opened  1871),  fronts  on  Vineyard 
Sound,  with  a view  of  Martha’s  Vineyard  from  its  lofty  position.  Still- 
water bathing  on  the  beach.  A R.  R.  Station  will  probably  be  made  near 


AND  NANTUCKET. 


Route  7.  59 


the  Heights.  The  last  station  is  Wood's  Hole,  whence  the  steamer  car- 
ries passengers  across  the  Sound  (7  M.)  to  Martha’s  Vineyard. 

Martha’s  Vineyard. 

* Sea-Foam  House,  a new  and  sumptuous  hotel,  gas-lighted,  steam-heated,  with 
elevator,  billiard-room,  ,&c.,  accommodates  250  guests.  $4.50  per  day.  * High- 
land House.  On  Circuit  Avenue,  in  Oak  Bluffs  Village,  are  several  good  hotels, 
on  the  European  plan  ; Baxter  House,  Pawnee  Plouse,  Central,  Island,  &c. 

Restaurants  at  the  Baxter  and  Pawnee  Houses,  &c. 

Pleasure-Boats  at  the  Sea-Foam  Hotel. 

Sea- baths  at  the  bathing-houses,  on  Circuit  Avenue  beyond  Ocean  Park 
(30  c.). 

In  May,  1602,  Capt.  Gosnold  coasted  the  island  on  the  S.,  and  landed  on  a bar- 
ren islet  (No  Man’s  Land)  to  the  S.  W.  which  he  named  Martha’s  Vineyard.  He 
then  landed  on  this  island  (then  called  Nope),  and  found,  in  S.  E.  Chilmark,  deer 
and  all  kind  of  game,  springs  and  a lake  of  pure  fresh  water,  four  kinds  of  ber- 
ries in  profusion,  and  trees  loaded  with  fruitful  vines.  Probably  then,  or  dur- 
ing his  stay  at  Cuttyhunk  (over  three  weeks)  the  name  was  transferred  from  No 
Man’s  Land  to  its  present  possessor.  The  name  is  thought  to  have  been  given  in 
honor  of  some  friend  of  the  Captain’s,  or  else  for  the  lady  of  some  one  of  his 
patrons.  (A  newspaper  correspondent  states  that  the  oldest  inhabitant,  who 
owned  these  isles,  gave  them  to  his  daughters  ere  he  died.  Rhoda  took  Rhode 
Island,  Elizabeth  took  the  island  since  named  for  her,  Martha  took  and  named 
Martha’s  Vineyard,  and  as  for  the  remaining  island,  Nan-took-it.  The  legend  is 
interesting,  but  cannot  be  traced  back  farther  than  the  year  1870.)  From  this 
island  and  the  neighboring  main,  Gosnold  and  Pring  (1603)  got  large  cargoes  of 
sassafras,  then  esteemed  a sovereign  specific  in  Europe.  In  1614,  Capt.  Hunt 
stole  27  Indians  at  Eastham,  on  Cape  Cod,  and  sold  them  as  slaves  a.t  Malaga,  for 
$ 100  each.  One  of  them,  Epenow,  was  carried  to  England,  where  the  .sly  fel- 
low told  of  vast  gold-mines  on  this  island.  A ship  was  sent  over,  at  great  ex- 
pense, with  Epenow  to  show  the  place,  but  as  soon  as  he  saw  the  shore,  he  leaped 
over,  swam  to  land,  and  was  not  seen  again  until  Capt.  Benner  landed  here  in 
1619.  In  a dashing  attack  conducted  by  Epenow,  the  Captain  and  many  of  his 
men  were  killed  and  wounded.  In  1647,  Thomas  Mayhew,  Governor  of  the  Islands 
by  grant  from  the  Earl  of  Stirling,  settled  at  Edgartown.  The  lordship  of  the 
isles  remained  in  the  Mayhew  family  from  1641  to  1710,  during  which  time  the 
kindness  of  these  men  won  the  hearts  of  the  natives.  The  Mayhews  were  all 
missionaries,  and,  learning  the  Indian  language,  preached  with  such  success  that 
Christian  villages  arose  all  over  the  island.  During  King  Philip’s  War,  the  con- 
verts remained  true,  and  guarded  the  shores.  About  1660,  some  Quakers  landed 
here  calling  the  Puritan  pastors  “priests  of  Baal,”  but  the  Indians  soon  drove 
them  off.  Gookin  visited  the  island  in  1674,  and  found  six  towns  of  Christian 
Indians,  “ a very  fruitful  Vineyard  unto  the  Lord  of  Hosts.”  For  a century  the 
Indians  slowly  dwindled,  and- the  coasting  vessels  began  to  frequent  Holmes’  Hole 
in  yearly  increasing  numbers.  In  1778,  Lord  Gray  (who  defeated  Wayne  at  Paoli) 
with  a British  force,  destroyed  a large  number  of  vessels  in  the  Hole.  In  1835,  9 
tents  were  pitched  at  the  present  Camp-Grounds,  and  the  first  camp-meeting  on 
the  island  was  held. 

The  Wesleyan  Grove,  or  Camp-Meeting  Ground,  is  near  the  Sea  View 
House  and  is  laid  out  in  gracefully  curved  streets,  grass-paved  and  crowded 
with  small  but  vigorous  trees.  Near  Trinity  Park,  a wide  lawn,  is  the 
great  tabernacle  tent  160  by  120  ft.  which  can  shelter  5,000  persons. 
This  is  the  centre  of  intense  excitement  during  the  meetings  in  late 
August,  when  from  20,000  to  25,000  people  are  gathered  here,  and  emi- 
nent Methodist  preachers  address  them.  Lake  Anthony  borders  the  N. 
and  W.  of  the  ground,  and  beyond  it,  on  the  high  bluffs  toward  East 
Chop  Light,  the  “Highlands”  have  been  laid  out  under  the  influence  of 


60  Route  7.  BOSTON  TO  MARTHA’S  VINEYARD 


the  Methodists.  On  the  E.  and  S.  of  the  Camp-Ground  is  the  village  of 
Oak  Bluffs,  laid  out  in  1868,  on  bluffs  30  ft.  high  fronting  Vineyard  Sound. 

Among  the  oak  groves  here  are  hundreds  of  Swiss  and  Gothic  cottages, 
resembling  large  bird-houses,  bright  and  clean  and  cheerful.  On  a hill 
near  the  centre  is  a curious,  many-sided  Muscovite  chapel,  which  is  used 
often  but  floats  no  denominational  flag.  It  is  said  that  some  come  to  Oak 
Bluffs  “who  know  and  care  nothing  for  Jerusalem  or  its  former  inhabi- 
tants,” wherefore  strict  police  rules  are  here  enforced. 

The  steamer  runs  to  Edgartown  daily,  and  a fine  road,  6 - 8 M.  long, 
leads  there.  The  village  of  Edgartown  (Ocean  House,  Vineyard  House) 
was  founded  in  1647  by  Gov.  Mayhew,  and  is  at  present  the  capital  of 
Dukes  County.  It  has  a fine  harbor,  sheltered  by  Chappaquiddick  Island, . 
and  possesses  a small  marine  museum. 

10  M.  from  Oak  Bluffs  is  South  Beach,  where  the  Atlantic  rolls  in 
grandly  after  a storm. 

By  walking  to  the  East  Chop  Light,  a view  is  gained  of  Holmes’  Hole, 
or  Vineyard  Haven,  one  of  the  most  famous  harbors  on  the  coast,  where, 
in  seasons  of  storm,  hundreds  of  vessels  take  shelter  under  the  lofty  bluffs. 
Through  Vineyard  Sound  passes  the  vast  and  unceasing  procession  of 
commerce  from  New  York  and  Southern  New  England  to  Boston  and 
the  East. 

20-25  M.  S.  W.  of  Oak  Bluffs  is  Gayliead,  near  which  is  the  Devil’s  Den,  a 
wild  spot  where  the  old  Indian  traditions  say  that  the  giant  Moshup  lived,  who 
caught  whales  and  roasted  them  on  trees  which  he  tore  up  by  the  roots.  He 
metamorphosed  his  children  into  fish,  and,  on  his  wife’s  lamenting,  he  threw  her 
to  Seconnet,  where  she  dwelt  and  levied  contributions  on  all  who  passed  the 
rocks,  until  she  herself  became  a rock.  Then  Moshup  disappeared  from  human 
sight  and  knowledge.  Gay  Head  is  “ the  most  remarkable  natural  curiosity  in 
New  England.”  The  sea-view  from  the  lighthouse  is  grand.  “Never  since  I 
stood  on  Table  Rock  have  I seen  a sight  so  grand  as  this.”  — General  Twiggs. 
About  this  promontory  several  score  of  half-breed  Indians  live  a strange  unsettled 
life.  The  remarkable  cliffs  by  the  shore  have  been  closely  studied  by  Prof.  Hitch- 
cock and  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  the  latter  describing  them  as  “the  lofty  cliffs  of  Gay- 
head,  more  than  200  ft.  high,  where  the  highly  inclined  tertiary  strata  are  gayly 
colored,  some  consisting  of  light  red  clays,  others  of  white,  yellow,  and  green, 
and  some  of  black  lignite.” 


Nantucket 

is  28  - 30  M.  from  Martha’s  Vineyard,  and  connected  with  it  by  a daily 
steamer.  After  leaving  the  Vineyard  astern,  the  islands  of  Muskeget  and 
Tuckernuck  are  seen  in  the  S.,  and  near  them  the  low  shores  of  W.  Nan- 
tucket. The  town  of  Nantucket  presents  a fine  appearance  from  the 
water,  being  built  on  hills.  Hotels  — Ocean  House,  $2.50-3.00  (occu- 
pying the  old  mansion  of  one  of  the  marine  aristocracy),  a comfortable 
hotel,  famous  for  its  chowders  ; and  the  Adams  House. 

The  Indian  tradition  is  that  the  Great  Spirit  was  once  smoking,  when  he  partly 
filled  his  pipe  with  sand.  When  the  mixed  remains  were  emptied  from  the  pipe 
into  the  sea,  they  formed  the  Island  of  Nantucket.  Its  name  is  said  to  be  an 


AND  NANTUCKET. 


Route  7.  61 


Indian  modification  of  Nautikon,  a name  left  by  the  Norsemen  who  visited  it  in 
the  11th  century.  The  best  authority  pronounces  it  a corruption  of  an  Indian 
word  meaning  “ far  away.”  It  is  called  Natocko  on  the  map  of  1630.  It  was 
visited  by  Gosnold  in  1602,  at  which  time  about  1,500  Indians  were  here,  and  the 
island  was  covered  with  oaks.  In  1604,  Champlain  and  Poutrincourt  landed  here 
and  remained  several  days,  for  the  relief  of  those  men  of  their  command  who 
had  been  wounded  in  a battle  with  the  Indians  at  Chatham.  Weary  and  dis- 
spirited,  they  ceased  their  explorations  here,  and  returned  to  Port  Royal,  naming 
these  sad  shores  “Isle  Douteuse.”  In  1641,  Mayhew  was  made  Governor  of 
the  Islands,  his  sway  extending  here.  In  1659,  he  deeded  ^ of  the  island  to  ten 
men  for  £30  and  two  beaver  hats,  and  one  family  moved  there,  there  being  then 
700  friendly  Indians  on  Nantucket. 

In  1665  King  Philip  visited  his  people  here,  and  in  1671  the  town  was  incor- 
porated (at  Maddequet,  5-6  M.  W.  from  the  present  town),  and  in  1672  moved  to 
its  present  place.  In  1672  the  first  whale  was  taken.  In  1673  the  town  was  called 
Sherburne  by  the  New  York  Governor,  in  whose  domain  it  was  until  1693  (the 
name  was  retained  till  1795).  The  700  English  had  no  church  or  pastor,  though 
the  Indians  had  four  churches.  A white  church  was  formed  in  1711.  In  1755  -6 
9 whaling-sloops  were  sunk  or  captured,  and  but  few  men  of  their  crews  ever  re- 
turned. In  1764,  there  were  3,220  whites  on  the  island  ; and  a plague,  the  same 
year,  swept  off  § of  the  Indians,  leaving  but  136.  1,600  Nantucket  men  died  in 

the  Continental  Army.  In  1784  the  population  was  larger  than  it  is  now.  In 
1821,  78  ships  and  81  smaller  vessels  were  owned  here,  and  mostly  engaged  in 
whaling.  The  last  Indian  died  in  1822.  Notwithstanding  devastating  fires  in  the 
town,  Nantucket  in  1840  had  9,712  inhabitants. 

The  town  (400  buildings)  was  burned  down  in  1846,  and  the  same  year 
the  whaling  business  began  to  decline,  until  now  there  is  but  one  small 
vessel  engaged  in  it,  and  in  the  town  which  has  houses  for  10,000  people 
there  are  but*  about  4,200.  The  houses  are  of  a quaint  old  style,  with 
platforms  on  the  roofs  (whence  to  watch  the  ships  coming  in).  The  North 
Church  was  the  first  on  the  island,  and  was  built  in  1711.  It  is  still  used 
by  the  same  society  as  a vestry,  and  its  oaken  timbers  are  hard  as  iron. 
| M.  from  the  Ocean  House,  on  Centre  St.,  is  a small  house  which  was 
built  in  1682.  The  hospitality  of  the  old  families  of  Nantucket  is  famous, 
and  its  churches  and  schools  are  numerous.  Many  houses  have  been 
taken  down  and  shipped  away,  but  of  late  real  estate  is  rising,  as  city 
men  are  securing  summer  homes  here.  Main  St.,  at  the  head  of  which 
is  the  old  Pacific  Bank,  has  the  shops  of  the  town  (shells  and  marine 
curiosities  may  be  bought  here),  and  is  a wide,  deserted,  grassy  street  lead- 
ing to  the  heads  of  silent  and  decaying  wharves.  The  low,  sandy  beach 
which  shelters  the  harbor  stretches  N.  W.  8 - 9 M.  to  Great  Point,  leav- 
ing a wide  and  quiet  lagoon  between  it  and  the  island.  At  the  Athenaeum 
is  a public  library  and  a museum  of  marine  curiosities  and  relics  of  the 
older  days  of  Nantucket.  The  Squantum  is  a peculiar  institution  of  the 
island,  being  an  informal  picnic  on  the  beach-sands,  where  the  dinner  is 
made  of  fish  or  other  spoils  of  the  sea.  Excursions  to  the  fishing  grounds 
are  managed  by  veteran  skippers,  who  let  themselves  and  their  boats 
cheaply.  There  are  rides  to  the  ancient  districts  on  the  W.  shore,  to  the 
beaches  on  the  S.  shore,  and  to  Siasconset.  Siasconset  (Atlantic  House) 
is  8 M.  S.  of  E.  from  the  town,  and  consists  of  a cluster  of  cottages  on  a 
high  bank  fronting  the  ocean.  Surf-bathing  here  is  safe  only  when  the 


62  Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


bathers  use  ropes,  as  the  shore  descends  rapidly.  1 M.  N.  of  Siasconset 
is  Sankoty  Head,  where  a powerful  Fresnel  light  is  elevated  on  a far-view- 
ing bluff  90  ft.  high.  1 M.  N.  of  Sankoty  Head  is  the  beautiful  Sesacacha 
Pond,  of  pure,  sweet  water  and  abounding  in  fish  (small  inn  on  the  shore). 
In  1676  a village  was  built  on  this  pond  and  remained  for  140  years  ; but 
its  last  house  was  torn  down  in  1820.  Most  of  the  island,  over  which 
rambles  may  be  made,  consists  of  high,  breezy,  sea-viewing  plains,  where 
but  few  fences  or  houses  are  seen,  and  which  “the  traveller  will  call 
downs,  prairies,  or  pampas,  as  he  happens  to  come  from  England,  the 
West,*  or  Buenos  Ayres.” 

8.  Boston  to  New  York. 

Via  Boston  and  Providence  R.  R.,  and  Shore  Line  to  New  York  (in  8 hrs.),  or 
by  steamer  from  Providence,  or  by  steamer  from  Stonington  (in  12  - 13  hrs.) 

The  train  leaves  the  station  in  Boston  (PI.  29),  (on  Pleasant  St.,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Common),  and  passes  the  suburban  stations,  Roxbury,  Jamaica 
Plain , and  Hyde  Park , by  Readville  (where  during  the  war  for  the 
Union  the  State  had  a vast  camp),  to  Canton,  (Massapoag  House, 
Ponkapaug  House),  a large  manufacturing  town.  Canton  was  the  seat 
of  a large  Indian  village,  where  the  Apostle  Eliot  was  wont  to  preach, 
and  in  1845  several  pure-blooded  Indians  remained.  From  Blue  Hill 
(635  ft.  high),  E.  of  the  village,  is  gained  a fine  * view  of  Boston  and  its 
harbor,  the  ocean,  and  many  busy  villages. 

Commodore  Downes,  who  commanded  the  Essex,  Jr.,  when  Porter  swept  the 
Pacific,  was  engaged  in  the  Tripolitan  War,  and  in  1815  captured  the  Algerian 
frigate  “ Nashouda,”  was  born  at  Canton.  His  son  commanded  the  gunboat 
“ Heron  ” and  the  monitor  “ Nahant,”  in  the  War  for  the  Union. 

Near  a massive  granite  viaduct  (600  ft.  long,  63  ft.  high),  in  this  town,  the 
Stoughton  Branch  R.  R.  leaves  the  main  line,  running  4 M.  to  Stoughton,  on  the 
Old  Colony  R.  R. 

Sharon  ( Cobb’s  Tavern)  is  in  a hilly  and  picturesque  manufacturing  town. 
E.  Foxboro Mansfield  (Eagle  Hotel),  whence  a railroad  runs  through 
Norton  and  Taunton  to  New  Bedford  (Route  9).  W.  Mansfield,  Attle- 
borough, a considerable  manufacturing  town  (jewelry,  &c.),  Dodgeville, 
Hebronville , and  Pawtucket , where  the  line  enters  the  State  of  Rhode 
Island. 

Pawtucket  (Pawtucket  Hotel,  Park  House)  was  the  scene  of  a bloody 
action  in  1676.  Capt.  Pierce,  with  70  men,  was  driven  back  to  the  river 
by  the  Indians,  and  his  party  was  fairly  showered  with  arrows.  When 
help  came,  not  one  man  was  living.  At  present,  Pawtucket  is  the  princi- 
pal thread  .manufactory  in  America,  and  steam  fire-engines,  rope,  braid, 
&c.,  are  made  here.  The  Dunnell  Manufacturing  Co.  has  36  buildings, 
and  prints  22,500,000  yards  of  calico  yearly.  The  Pawtucket  Tack  Co. 
makes  360,000,000  tacks  yearly,  and  35,000,000  spools  are  made  here 
every  year. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


P^oute  8.  G3 


Providence. 

Providence  (City  Hotel,  $4-4.50  a day,  Aldrich  House;  Central 
Hotel,  6-10  Canal  St.,  European  plan),  is  the  second  city,  in  wealth 
and  population,  of  New  England,  and  a semi-capital  of  Rhode  Island. 
It  is  beautifully  situated  on  hills  at  the  head  of  Narragansett  Bay, 
a cove  of  which  lies  far  in  the  city  and  is  surrounded  by  promenades. 
The  view  of  the  city  from  the  Bay,  or  from  the  heights  E.  of  the  river,  is 
very  pleasing.  The  China  trade  was  once  largely  enjoyed  by  Providence, 
but  since  its  loss  the  energies  of  the  citizens  have  turned  to  manufactures, 
and  now  large  jewelry,  iron,  stove,  and  locomotive  works  are  kept  going. 
The  Corliess  engines,  the  Peabody  rifles,  the  Gorham  silver- ware,  Perry 
Davis’s  Pain-Killer,  and  millions  of  cigars  are  made  here.  44  banks  take 
care  of  the  money. 

Providence  was  founded  and  named  by  Roger  Williams,  who  was  banished  from 
Massachusetts  in  1638,  for  his  advanced  ideas  relative  to  Church  and  State.  He 
was  born  in  Wales,  1599,  educated  at  Pembroke  College,  Cambridge,  and  preached 
for  some  time  at  Salem,  Mass.  After  his  exile  he  settled  at  Seekonk,  whence  he 
was  soon  warned  away  by  the  Governor  of  Plymouth.  In  a canoe,  with  five 
companions,  he  dropped  down  the  river,  until,  in  passing  a cove  (near  the  present 
India  St.  Bridge),  he  was  hailed  by  some  Indians  with  the  words,  “What  cheer, 
Netop  ? ” (friend).  He  landed  in  this  cove  on  the  celebrated  What  Cheer  Rock, 
and  then  coasted  around  to  the  mouth  of  Providence  River,  where  he  landed  and 
remained.  This  was  in  June,  1636.  Soon  after  he  visited  the  Sachem  Canonicus  (on 
Canonicut  Island)  and  received  a grant  of  the  land  hereabouts.  In  1639  Williams 
became  a Baptist,  and  in  1643-4  went  to  England,  and  got  a charter  for  the  new 
colony.  In  King  Philip’s  War,  every  house  between  Stonington  and  Bridgewater 
(save  Providence)  was  destroyed,  and  the  little  colony  was  once  fiercely  attacked, 
and  lost  30  houses.  In  the  royal  census  of  1730,  Providence  had  3,916  inhabitants. 
De  Warville  visited  it  in  1788,  and  reported  it  “ decayed,  and  in  the  silence  of 
death.”  In  1800,  it  had  7,614  inhabitants,  and  in  1870,  68,904. 

The  R.  R.  station,  fronting  on  Exchange  Place,  is  a large,  handsome 
building,  near  which  is  a costly  * monument,  erected  by  the  State  in 
honor  of  her  dead  soldiers.  The  base  of  this  work  is  of  blue  Westerly 
! granite,  bearing  the  arms  of  the  U.  S. , and  of  R.  I.  Surrounding  this 
‘ are  four  7-ft.  bronze  statues  representing  the  Infantry,  Cavalry,  Artillery, 

1 and  the  Navy  ; above  which  is  a statue  of  militant  America  (10  ft.  high), 
!j  bearing  a sword  and  laurel  wreath  in  one  hand,  and  a wreath  of  immor- 
telles in  the  other.  The  names  of  1,680  R.  I.  soldiers  who  died  in  the  War 
. for  the  Union  are  inscribed  on  the  monument,  which  was  designed  by 
Randolph  Rogers,  of  Rome.  Near  Exchange  Place,  and  parallel  to  it,  is 
Westminster  St.,  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  city.  From  this  street  to 
Weybosset  St.  runs  the  Arcade,  a fine  granite  building  (built  1828),  on 
$ the  plan  of  the  European  “galleries,”  containing  a great  number  of  shops 
ranged  along  a glass-roofed  promenade.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  massive 
j granite  building  of  the  Custom  House  and  Post  Office.  The  most  notable 
churches  are  St.  Joseph  and  St.  Mary  (Roman  Catholic),  the  Union 
Congregational,  the  Roger  Williams  Baptist,  the  ancient  First  Baptist 
(society  founded  1639),  Grace  Church,  and  St.  Stephen’s  (Episcopal),  a 


G4  Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YOKE. 


massive  edifice  of  nigged  brown  stone,  with  a deeply  recessed  chancel,  an 
ornate  roof,  and  richly  stained  windows.  There  are  59  churches  in  the 
city.  In  the  S.  part,  and  fronting  on  the  harbor,  is  the  stately  building 
of  the  * R.  I.  Hospital,  surrounded  by  pleasant  grounds.  Some  distance 
S.  of  this,  the  city  is  preparing  a park  on  the  bold  shores  of  the  Narra- 
gansett  Bay. 

On  the  E.  side  of  Providence  Biver  are  two  long  business  streets  and  a 
line  of  heights  covered  with  residences.  On  N.  Main  St.,  near  Presi- 
dent, is  the  quaint  old  church  of  the  First  Baptist  Society,  and  beyond  it, 
on  the  corner  of  S.  Court  St.,  is  the  small  brick  building  used  for  the 
State  House.  Fine  views  of  the  u seven  hills  of  Providence  ” are  gained 
from  Benefit  St.  above  the  State  House.  On  the  comer  of  College  and 
Benefit  Sts.  is  the  * Athenaeum,  a sturdy  little  granite  building,  con- 
taining a library  of  32,000  volumes.  Several  busts  are  preserved  here,  and 
some  fine  paintings,  among  which  are  a copy  of  Stuart’s  Washington, 
by  AUston  ; portrait  of  Channing,  A list  on  ; Charles  II.,  long  thought  to 
be  by  Van  Dyk,  now  held  to  be  by  Caspar  ; portraits  of  Gen.  Greene,  J. 
G.  Percival,  and  Phillips  Brooks ; * portrait  of  a young  lady,  (his  niece  ?) 
reading,  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds , one  of  his  finest  works.  But  the  gem 
of  this  collection  is  Malbone’s  masterpiece,  * “ The  Hours,”  painted  in 
water-colors  on  a sheet  of  ivory  6 inches  by  7,  and  presented  to  the 
Athenaeum  in  1853,  by  130  subscribers.  The  picture  represents  Eunomia, 
Dice,  and  Irene,  the  Past,  Present,  and  Future.  The  President  of  the 
Boyal  Academy  said  of  it  to  Monroe,  “ I have  seen  a picture,  painted  by 
a young  man  by  the  name  of  Malbone,  which  no  man  in  England  could 
excel.”  On  the  heights  near  the  Athenaeum  is  the  line  of  buildings 
(R.  I.  College,  Hope,  Manning,  and  University  Halls,  &c.),  pertaining  to 
Brown  University.  There  is  here  a fine  library  of  about  40,000  volumes, 
a museum  of  Natural  History  containing  10,000  specimens ; and  in  the 
portrait  gallery  38  portraits,  some  of  which  are  of  value. 

Rhode  Island  College  was  founded  at  Warren  in  1764,  and  removed  to  Provi- 
dence in  1770.  Its  buildings  served  as  a hospital  for  the  Franco-Anierican  army 
during  great  part  of  the  Revolution.  Nicholas  Brown,  and  others  of  that  dis- 
tinguished R.  I.  family,  having  greatly  aided  the  college,  in  1804  its  name  -was 
changed  to  Brown  University.  Two  thirds  of  the  Boards  of  Fellow's  and  Trustees 
are  required  by  the  charter  to  be  Baptists. 

The  hall  of  the  R.  I.  Historical  Society  is  near  the  University,  and 
contains  many  relics  of  the  Indians  and  early  settlers,  together  with  6,000 
books,  30,000  pamphlets,  and  7,000  MSS.  On  Hope  St.,  N.  W.  of  the 
University,  are  the  extensive  buildings,  surrounded  by  fine  grounds,  of  the 
Dexter  Asylum  (for  the  poor),  near  which  are  the  ornate  buildings  of  the 
Friends’  Boarding  School.  The  Butler  Hospital  for  the  Insane  has  large 
and  stately  edifices,  surrounded  by  115  acres  of  ornamental  grounds,  on 
the  heights  which  look  down  on  the  widenings  of  the  Seekonk  River 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8.  65 


(which  is  the  boundary  of  Massachusetts).  N.  of  the  Butler  Hospital 
is  Swan  Point  Cemetery,  a beautiful  rural  necropolis  on  undulating 
ground  near  the  river.  The  Reform  School  and  the  Home  for  Aged 
Women  are  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  city.  Near  the  E.  end  of  Power  St., 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  the  What  Cheer  Rock,  on  which  Roger 
Williams  first  landed.  N.  of  the  Cove  (near  the  R.  R.  Station),  is  the 
Rhode  Island  State  Prison. 

Environs  of  Providence. 

On  the  N.  (4J  M.)  is  the  great  manufacturing  town  of  Pawtucket.' 
Cranston  (4  M.’  to  the  W.)  is  a busy  working  place,  which  has  the  Narra- 
gansett  Trotting  Park,  famous  in  R.  I.  races.  The  mile  elliptical  track  is 
entered  through  a fine  towered  gateway,  and  the  grand  stand  contains 
5,000  seats.  . Hunt’s  Mill,  £ M.  distant,  is  a favorite  drive.  Steamers 
leave  Providence  almost  hourly  in  summer  for  the  popular  resorts  on 
the  Bay,  and  four  times  daily  for  Newport.  Sassafras  Point,  Robin  Hill, 
with  its  old  fort,  and  Field’s  Point,  are  passed  soon  after  leaving  the  city, 
and  then  Ocean  Cottage  (hotel)  is  reached,  on  the  E.  shore.  The  sturdy 
lighthouse,  in  the  Bay  beyond,  is  on  Pomham  Rock,  named  after  a brave 
sachem  of  the  Narragansetts  who  was  killed  in  battle  with  the  English,  in 
July,  1676.  The  steamer  now  stops  at  Yue  de  l’Eau,  a large  hotel  on  the 
E.  shore,  commanding  a fine  view  of  the  Bay.  Smith’s  Palace  is  on  the  W. , 
after  which  comes  the  favorite  Silver  Spring  House  (on  the  E.).  Pawtuxet 
village  (5  M.  from  Providence,  on  the  W.  shore)  has  sandy  shores  which 
afford  good  bathing.  After  rounding  Sabin’s  Point  on  the  E.,  the  Cedar 
Grove  House  (30  rooms,  4 bowling  alleys),  with  its  cottage  village,  is  seen 
on  a high  bluff.  At  Gaspee  Point,  below  Pawtuxet,  the  British  sloop-of- 
war  “ Gaspee  ” grounded  while  chasing  a small  American  vessel.  On  the 
following  night  (June  17,  1772,)  a band  of  Providence  men  surprised  the 
“ Gaspee,”  captured  and  landed  her  crew,  and  then  burnt  the  vessel.  Bul- 
lock’s Point  (on  the E.)  and  Mark  Rock  (on  the  W.),  “the  Natchez  of 
Rhode  Island,”  the  sandy  Canimicut  Point  with  its  lighthouse,  and 
Nayatt  Point,  on  the  opposite  shore,  are  rapidly  passed,  and  then  the  steamer 
passes  out  into  the  Bay  proper.  Rocky  Point  (Rocky  Point  Hotel,  on 
the  European  plan,  accommodating  700  guests)  is  soon  reached.  This 
Point  is  midway  between  Providence  and  Newport,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
joyous  and  attractive  resorts  in  New  England.  A lofty  tower  near  the 
hotel  affords  a noble  * view,  including  Providence  and  Newport,  Fall 
River,  Bristol,  and  Warren,  and  many  other  towns,  with  the  whole  sweep 
of  the  Bay.  The  wild  and  cavernous  rock-formations,  the  free  menagerie, 
and  the  elevated  railway,  are  some  of  the  attractions.  250  persons  are 
employed  here  through  the  summer  ; from  the  hotel  telegrams  may  be 
sent  all  over  the  Union.  But  the  chief  excellency  of  “ the  crown  of 

E 


66  Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Narragansett  Bay  ” is  the  dining-room  (seating  1,500  persons),  where  fish 
and  clams  are  served  np  in  every  shape.  The  clam-bakes  of  Rocky  Point 
are  unrivalled  in  the  world.  Soon  after,  the  steamer  passes  Warwick 
and  its  lighthouse,  and  along  Prudence  Island  (6  M.  long),  near  -which 
are  the  islets  of  Patience,  Hope,  and  Despair.  S.  of  Prudence  Island  is 
the  widest  part  of  the  Bay,  and  Warwick  village  is  visible  on  the  W. 
shore.  The  course  now  lies  between  Rhode  and  Canonicut  Islands,  pass- 
ing several  smaller  islets,  and  running  under  the  frowning  walls  of  Fort 
Adams  into  the  Harbor  of  Newport. 

* The  Providence,  Warren,  and  Bristol  R.  R.  leaves  its  station  at  Fox 
Point,  crosses  the  Seekonk  River,  and  passes  the  popular  resorts  on  the  E. 
shore.  Stations,  India  Point,  Boston  Switch,  Vue  de  l’Eau,  Drown ville, 
Nayatt,  Barrington  and  Warren.  The  latter  town  (Cole’s  Hotel,  estab- 
lished in  1762)  is  a busy  manufacturing  place  on  the  E.  shore  of  Narra- 
gansett Bay.  It  is  a nursery  of  sailors,  and  has  a well-protected  harbor. 
The  Sachem  Massasoit  had  his  favorite  dwelling  here  on  his  territory  of 
Sowamset,  near  a spring  which  is  still  called  after  his  name.  The  Warren 
Veteran  Artillery  has  two  cannon  which  were  made  at  Strasbourg  in  1760, 
taken  from  the  French  at  Montreal,  surrendered  with  Burgoyne  at  Sara- 
toga, and  used  in  the  Dorr  Rebellion  (1842).  A railroad  runs  from 
Warren  to  Fall  River. 

The  next  station,  4 M.  S.  of  Warren,  is  Bristol  (a  small  hotel).  This 
town  is  a pleasant  summer-resort,  and  is  built  on  a high  peninsula  sloping 
to  a deep,  safe  harbor.  Three  wide,  grassy  streets  run  down  the  penin- 
sula, — Water  St.,  near  the  harbor  ; Main  St.,  with  St.  Michael’s  (Epis.) 
Church,  and  two  or  three  old  colonial  mansions;  and  High  St.,  with  the 
common,  the  poor  county  buildings,  and  a fine  Cong,  church,  in  rambling 
mediaeval  architecture.  From  this  broad  and  quiet  street  may  be  seen 
Mount  Hope,  where  was  “King  Philip’s  seat”  (Arnold),  or  “Philip’s 
sty  at  Mount  Hope  ” (Palfrey). 

King  Philip,  or  Metacomet,  was  the  son  of  Massasoit,  and  chief  of  the  Wam- 
panoags.  After  enduring  various  aggressions  from  his  white  neighbors,  in  1671, 
the  Plymouth  people  demanded  that  all  the  Indians  should  give  up  their  arms, 
and  Philip  demurred  at  this.  Then,  travelling  throughout  New  England,  he 
formed  a powerful  anti-English  league,  and  attacked  the  colonies  in  1675.  After  a 
long  war  conducted  with  unexampled  ferocity  by  both  combatants,  his  power 
was  broken  by  the  Narragansett  Fort  Fight,  and  the  repulse  from  Taunton. 
Having  decimated  the  colonists  and  destroyed  many  of  their  fairest  towns, 
he  was  hunted  down  and  shot  near  the  foot  of  Mount  Hope,  in  midsummer, 
1676.  During  the  war  600  colonists  were  killed,  and  12  towns  were  destroyed. 

In  1680  the  peninsula  was  bought  from  the  Government  by  a company  of  Bos- 
ton capitalists,  who  divided  it  into  lots,  and  sold  the  land  to  actual  settlers.  In 
Oct.,  1775,  three  British  frigates  bombarded  Bristol,  and  in  1778  a raiding  party 
of  British  soldiers  plundered  this  town  and  Warren. 

Fine  yachts  are  made  at  Bristol,  also  cotton  goods  and  refined  sugars,  while 
an  immense,  rubber  manufactory  does  a business  of  $2,000,000  a year. 

The  Providence  and  Worcester  R.  R.  runs  from  Providence  to  Worcester  (Route 
10);  and  the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fislikill  R.  R.  runs  W.  to  Hart  ord  and 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8.  67 


Waterbury  (Route  11).  A daily  line  of  steamers  runs  between  Providence  and 
New  York,  carrying  passengers  and  freight. 

After  leaving  Providence,  the  Shore  Line  route  to  New  York  (Route  8, 
continued)  runs  S.,  passing  the  stations  Elmville,  IlilVs  Grove,  Apponcmg, 
and  Greenwich  (Updike  House,  Greenwich  Hotel).  Greenwich  is  a neat 
village  on  Cowesit  Bay,  and  is  the  seat  of  a large  Methodist  Seminary. 
In  1641,  a trading-post  and  inn  were  erected  here  on  the  great  Southern 
road,  or  “Pequot  Path.”  Its  site  is  now  occupied  by  the  Updike  House, 
into  which  many  of  its  timbers  are  built.  At  this  post  the  Mass,  and 
Plymouth  forces  met  before  the  Narragansett  Fort  Fight  (1675),  and 
hither  they  retreated  with  their  wounded. 

Old  Warwick  is  a few  miles  distant,  across  Cowesit  Bay.  Samuel  Gorton, 
-a  layman  who  intruded  into  the  arena  of  theological  polemics,  was  banished 
from  Plymouth  in  1637,  from  Newport  in  1641,  from  Providence  in  1642,  from 
Cranston  later  in  the  same  year,  and  then  settled  on  Sliawomet.  In  1643,  40 
soldiers  from  Boston  came  here,  and  took  Gorton  and  10  colonists  to  Boston, 
where  they  were  tried  and  sentenced  as  “ damnable  heretics,”  and  banished 
from  America.  The  Earl  of  Warwick  sent  him  back  to  Shawomet  (which  he 
named  Warwick),  and  under  that  nobleman’s  protection  he  spent  the  remainder 
of  his  life  in  launching  anathematic  treatises  at  Massachusetts  and  R.  I.,  among 
which  were  “ Simplicities  Defence  against  Seven-Headed  Policy,”  “Antidote 
against  Pharasaic  Teachers,”  &c.  In  1652,  the  clerk  of  this  unfortunate  settle- 
ment was  disfranchised  on  seven  charges  : first,  for  calling  the  officers  of  the 
town  rogues  and  thieves  ; second,  for  calling  all  the  town  rogues  and  thieves ; 
third,  for  threatening  to  kill  all  the  mares  in  town.  In  1676,  the  place  was  at- 
tacked and  burnt. 

Nathaniel  Greene  was  born  at  Warwick,  in  1742.  He  led  the  R.  I.  brigade  to 
Cambridge  in  1775,  commanded  the  left  wing,  and  took  the  guns  at  Trenton, 
saved  the  army  at  the  Battle  of  the  Brandywine,  and  led  a brigade  at  German- 
town, Monmouth,  and  Newport.  In  1780,  he  commanded  the  shattered  Army  of 
the  South  in  its  celebrated  retreat  across  South  and  North  Carolina  into  Virginia, 
and  fought  the  drawn  battle  at  Guilford  C.  II.  In  April,  1781,  he  was  badly  de- 
feated by  Lord  Rawdon,  at  Hobkirk’s  Hill,  and  was  repulsed  from  Fort  96,  but 
in  September  he  won  the  sanguinary  and  decisive  battle  of  Eutaw  Springs,  which 
ruined  the  British  hopes  in  the  South.  Congress  presented  him  with  a medal,  a 
British  standard,  and  two  captured  cannon,  and  the  State  of  Georgia  gave  him  a 
fine  plantation  near  Savannah,  where  he  resided  until  his  death. 

George  S.  Greene,  born  at  Warwick  in  1S01,  commanded  a division  at  Antietam, 
Chancellorsville,  and  Gettysburg ; and  in  N.  and  S.  Carolina  during  the  rest  of 
the  war. 

Silas  Casey,  born  at  E.  Greenwich  in  1807,  commanded  a division  of  the  Army 
of  the  Potomac,  and  was  greatly  distinguished  in  the  sanguinary  battle  of  Fair 
Oaks,  May  31,  1862. 

The  celebrated  summer  resort  at  Rocky  Point  is  not  far  from  Old  Warwick. 

Station  Wickford.  The  village  ( Washington  Hotel),  a quaint  and  quiet 
old  place,  is  on  a broad  bay,  and  is  reached  by  a branch  railroad  in  2J  M. 
(connecting  with  a steamer  to  Newport  daily).  In  the  edge  of  the  village 
is  a curious  square  Episcopal  church,  which  was  built  in  1706,  and  has 
been  long  deserted. 

Station  Kingston,  The  village  ( Kingston  House)  is  on  the  heights,  2 
M.  E.  of  the  station,  and  contains  the  county  buildings  of  Washington 
Co.  9 M.  from  the  station  (carriages  in  waiting)  is  the  fashionable  sea- 
side resort  at  Narragansett  Pier. 


68  Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Hotels.  * Tower  Hill  House,  a noble  building  on  Narragansett  Heights,  which 
overlook  the  whole  Bay,  is  3 M.  from  the  shore  (horse-cars) ; Delavan  House  ; 
Continental  House  ; Maxson,  Hazard,  Ocean,  Metatoxet,  Sea-View,  Elmwood, 
Narragansett,  Matthewson,  Atlantic,  Atwood,  Revere,  Mount  Hope,  and  others. 
Most  of  these  hotels  accommodate  60-80  guests,  and  charge  $12 -$18.00  a week. 
The  Tower  Hill,  Atwood,  and  two  or  three  others,  are  larger  and  more  ex- 
pensive. 

Music,  Lectures,  &c.,  in  Canonchet  Hall.  A handsome  Episcopal  church, 
of  stone,  has  recently  been  built.  Narragansett  Pier  P.  O.  receives  two  mails 
daily.  Steamers  leave  daily  for  Newport  and  Providence. 

In  1856,  a family  from  Philadelphia  came  here,  and  boarded  at  a farm- 
house near  the  beach.  The  next  year  they  returned  with  some  friends, 
and  the  farm  was  called  the  Narragansett  Boarding-House.  Summer 
visitors  increased,  until  in  1867,  the  Atlantic  (80  guests),  the  Atwood  (175 
guests),  and  the  Revere  (50  guests)  Houses  were  built.  Other  hotels 
were  rapidly  built,  and  in  1871,  the  Continental,  Maxson,  Mt.  Hope, 
and  Tower  Hill  Houses  were  finished. 

The  Beach  affords  fine  riding  and  bathing  (light  surf),  and  many  fish 
are  caught  from  the  rocks.  Narragansett  is  said  to  be  more  quiet  and  un- 
assuming than  Newport,  and  its  usual  routine  is  bathing  in  the  morning 
(when  3-400  persons  may  be  seen  in  the  surf),  and  croquet  in  the  after- 
noon. Below  the  Pier  is  a mass  of  rocks,  beyond  which  stretches  the 
long  line  of  Wolcott’s  Beach.  The  noble  and  richly  decorated  mansion  of 
the  Sprague  family  is  near  the  cluster  of  hotels.  Every  visitor  should  go 
to  Narragansett  Heights  (3  M.),  where  the  palatial  Tower  Hill  Hotel 
stands  on  its  800-acre  plateau,  near  Silver  Lake,  400  ft.  above  the  Bay. 
The*  view  is  fine,  extending  over  Newport  and  10-12  villages,  and  cov- 
ering a horizon-line  of  100  M.  The  Ocean,  the  Bay,  Point  Judith,  and 
the  lakes  of  S.  Kingstown,  are  all  visible.  4-6  M.  W.  of  the  Pier  is 
Peacedale,  with  a fine  stone  church,  and  a large  manufactory  of  woollen 
shawls. 

The  road  running  S.  W.  from  Peacedale,  through  Wakefield,  passes  the  remains 
of  the  old  Potter  Palace,  and  the  birthplace  of  Commodore  Perry. 

John  Potter  was  a magnate  of  the  middle  of  the  18th  century,  who  built  here 
in  Narragansett  a fine  mansion,  richly  frescoed  throughout,  surrounded  by  gar- 
dens, and  kept  by  100  slaves,  where  he  used  to  receive  company  in  baronial 
style. 

At  and  before  this  time  large  Quaker  settlements  were  scattered  through  the 
district,  and  three  of  their  deserted  churches  still  remain  in  this  town. 

Oliver  Hazard  Perry  was  born  in  1785,  of  an  old  aristocratic  family  of  Narra- 
gansett. He  served  as  a midshipman  in  the  Tripolitan  War,  and  was  put  in  com- 
mand of  the  squadron  on  Lake  Erie,  at  whose  head,  Sept.  10,  1813,  he  won  a bril- 
liant victory,  and  captured  the  entire  British  fleet.  He  died  of  yellow  fever,  at 
Trinidad,  in  1819.  His  brother,  Commodore  M.  C.  Perry,  born  at  Newport,  1794, 
was  an  active  naval  officer,  chiefly  distinguished  for  leading  the  Japan  expedition 
in  1852-4,  when  he  concluded  an  important  treaty  with  that  empire. 

Commodore  Perry’s  cousin,  Stephen  Champlin,  Commodore  in  the  U.  S.  Navy, 
was  born  here  in  1789.  He  fired  the  first  and  last  shots  at  the  battle  of  Lake 
Erie,  where  he  commanded  the  “Scorpion,”  in  Perry’s  squadron.  His  services  in 
the  War  of  1812  were  important. 

G.  C.  Stuart,  the  celebrated  portrait-painter,  was  born  in  this  town  in  1754. 
Most  of  the  time  from  1772  to  1793  he  spent  in  London  and  Paris,  and  kept  his 
studio  at  Boston,  1806-28.  His  portraits  of  Washington  and  other  founders  of 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8.  69 


the  Republic  are  the  best  in  existence,  and  show  skill  of  the  highest  order  in  por- 
trait-painting. 

I V M.  from  the  Perry  farm  is  the  Potter  Place,  E.  of  which  is  the  long,  island- 
studded  lagoon  known  as  Point  Judith  Pond,  abounding  in  fish.  Point  Judith, 
is  the  site  of  an  important  lighthouse. 

The  legend  runs,  that  far  back  in  the  colonia^  days,  a storm-tossed  vessel  was 
driven  in  towards  the  Narragansett  shore.  The  captain,  an  ancient  mariner,  was 
at  the  wheel,  watchful  amid  the  perils  of  an  unknown  coast,  when  his  bright- 
eyed daughter,  Judith,  called  out  to  him,  “Land,  father  ! I see  the  land  ! ” His 
dim  eyes  could  not  discern  the  distant  shore,  and  he  shouted,  “Where  away? 
Point,  Judith,  point!”  She  did  point,  and  he  changed  his  course,  and  left  the 
surf-whitened  cape  far  away  under  lee  ; and  when  he  reached  port,  the  story  of 
the  fearless  girl  pointing  out  the  danger  from  the  storm-swept  deck  was  told  often 
and  again  among  the  sailors,  so  that  the  old  sea-captains,  when  they  passed  this 
cape  thereafter,  repeated  the  story,  and  gave  her  name  to  the  place. 

During  much  of  the  year  1778,  the  Count  D’Estaing’s  fleet  of  16  vessels,  with 
933  cannon,  was  stretched  across  the  Bay  from  Point  Judith,  and  maintained  an 
efficient  blockade  of  the  British  forces  at  Newport.  Admiral  Lord  Howe  attacked 
D’Estaing  with  a large  squadron,  and  after  an  indecisive  battle  and  a severe  storm, 
both  fleets  were  forced  to  leave  the  Bay  and  refit. 

This  town  of  S.  Kingstown  is  the  largest  in  the  State,  covering  over  76 
square  M.  N.  W.  of  Kingston,  near  the  Exeter  line,  on  a high,  rocky 
hill,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Indian  “ Queen’s  Fort.”  Part  of  the  stone-wall 
remains,  also  a rock-chamber  called  the  Queen’s  Bedroom,  where  many 
arrows  have  been  found. 

On  a hill  in  the  great  pine  and  cedar  swamp  near  Worden’s  Pond  (S. 
W.  of  Kingston)  are  the  scanty  remains  of  the  Narragansett  Fort 
(guide  necessary,  who  can  sometimes  be  obtained  at  the  farm-houses  on 
the  edge  of  the  swamp). 

At  the  time  of  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims,  the  Narragansett  Indians,  unwasted 
by  pestilence,  ruled  the  E.  There  were  30,000  souls  in  this  nation  (Brinley),  or 
according  to  Roger  Williams,  “12  towns  within  20  M.,  with  5,000  warriors.” 
Gookin  (1674)  calls  them  an  “active,  laborious,  and  ingenious  people,”  and  they 
■were  extensively  engaged  in  trade  and  manufacture,  supplying  nearly  all  the  New 
England  tribes  with  pipes,  pots,  and  wampum  jewelry  and  coin.  Their  territory 
stretched  from  Wickford  nearly  to  Westerly,  with  its  largest  villages  in  the  vicin- 
ity (favorable  for  fishing  or  agriculture)  of  the  great  ponds  in  S.  Kingstown.  In 
their  simple  theology  they  looked  forward  to  some  mystic  realms  in  the  far  S.  W., 
where  the  gods  and  pure  spirits  dwelt,  while  the  souls  of  murderers,  thieves,  and 
liars  are  doomed  to  wander  abroad.  They  fought  frequently  with  the  Mohegans 
and  Pequots,  but  lived  more  peaceably  with  the  Massachusetts,  which  was  the 
name  they  (living  in  a flat  country)  applied*  to  the  dwellers  at  Neponset,  Milton, 
and  Canton.  It  is  from  Massa  (many)  and  Waschoe  (mountains),  and  means  the 
people  of  the  many  mountains  (the  high  blue  hills  of  Milton).  Canonicus  and 
Miantonomoh  ruled  from  about  1600  to  1643  ; the  former  being  “ a wise  and  peace- 
I able  prince”  (Roger  Williams),  and  the  latter  a “brave  and  magnanimous  chief,” 
who  gave  lands  freely  to  the  R.  I.  colonists.  But  the  unvarying  friendship  be- 
tween the  settlers  and  this  great  tribe  was  ended  in  1675,  when  the  fiery  eloquence 
> and  crafty  subtlety  of  King  Philip  of  the  Wampanoags  induced  them  to  enter 
the  anti-English  confederation  of  the  New  England  tribes.  The  United  Colonies 
took  prompt  action,  and  assembled  1,000  men  under  Gen.  Winslow,  on  the  verge 
of  the  tribal  territory.  Many  of  the  Indians’were  campaigning  with  King  Philip  ; 
many  fled  to  the  N.  W.  ; and  the  rest  abandoned  their  villages  and  took  refuge  in 
the  ancient  fortress  of  the  tribe  in  the  swamp  near  Worden’s  Pond.  After  a long 
f march  through  the  snow  in  Dec.,  1675,  the  colonial  troops  came  in  sight  of  the 
hill,  covered  with  a system  of  embankments,  palisades,  and  abatis,  and  defended 
by  the  flower  of  the  Narragansetts.  The  Massachusetts  men,  in  the  van,  dashed 
, into  the  Fort  through  an  enfiladed  entrance,  and  after  a furious  struggle,  being 


70  Route  $. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


unsupported,  they  were  driven  out  with  heavy  loss.  The  whole  force  now  having 
arrived,  a double  attack  was  made  ; the  troops  of  Connecticut  stormed  the  gate, 
and,  while  the  attention  of  the  whole  Indian  garrison  was  centred  on  that  point, 
the  Plymouth  companies  broke  through  the  abatis  and  palisades  on  the  other 
side,  and  attacked  them  in  the  rear.  A bitter  combat  ensued,  the  Indians  retir- 
ing to  their  wigwams  and  repulsing  every  attack  of  the  colonials,  who  now  held 
the  walls.  Fire  was  now  applied.  to  the  wigwams,  and  spread  rapidly,  amid  a 
scene  of  unutterable  confusion  and  carnage.  A band  of  chosen  warriors  dashed 
forth  and  cleared  a way  and  covered  the  retreat  of  full  3,000  people,  after  which 
the  colonials  were  left  in  full  possession,  having  lost  80  men  killed  and  150 
wounded.  300  warriors  were  killed,  and  600  prisoners  taken,  of  whom  most  of 
the  fighting  men  were  either  shot  on  Boston  Common,  died  on  Deer  Island,  or 
were  sold  into  slavery.  The  tribe  was  annihilated.  Nearly  all  the  colonial  captains 
were  shot,  and  a considerable  proportion  of  the  wounded,  borne  through  a road- 
less country  in  midwinter,  scores  of  miles  to  the  settlements,  died  on  the  way 
home. 

“The  bitter  cold,  the  tarled  swamp,  the  tedious  march,  the  strong  fort,  the 
numerous  and  stubborn  enemy  they  contended  with  for  their  God,  King,  and 
country,  be  their  trophies  over  death.”  — Conn.  Legislature  on  “those  dead  in 
the  Fort  Fight  in  Narragansett.” 

In  10  - 12  min.  after  leaving  Kingston  Station,  the  train  passes  through 
the  swamp  where  the  battle  took  place.  The  next  station  is  Carolina , 
with  large  woollen  mills,  3 - 4 M.  S.  of  which  is  a reservation,  with  church 
and  school-house,  where  lives  the  scanty  remnant  of  the  Narragansett 
tribe.  Stations,  Richmond  Switch , Charlestown,  Westerly  (Dixon 
House,  $3.00  a clay).  In  1665,  a division  of  the  Newport  church 
moved  to  Westerly,  and,  in  1671,  embraced  the  tenets  of  the  Seventh 
Day  Baptists,  so  if  the  traveller  chances  to  be  here  on  Saturday,  he  will 
find  but  little  business  going  on,  and  the  church  bells  ringing.  Westerly 
is  noted  for  its  extensive  manufactures,  and,  among  other  things,  turns 
out  every  year  442  miles  of  flannel  and  1031  miles  of  cotton  and  woollen 
cloths.  Many  summer  visitors  stop  at  the  elegant  Dixon  House,  and 
avail  themselves  of  the  steamer  which  runs  semi-daily  down  the  Pawcatuck 
Biver  to 


Watch  Hill  Point. 

Hotels. — * Ocean  House,  on  a far-viewing  hill;  Watch  Hill  House,  30-40 
years  old,  the  first  hotel  here  ; Larkin  House,  near  the  lighthouse ; Atlantic 
House,  Dickens,  Bay  View,  and  Plimpton  Houses.  There  is  but  little  difference 
in  these  hotels,  and  the  prices  are  somewhat  less  than  those  at  Narragansett  Pier. 

Steamers  in  summer  run  from  Westerly  to  Watch  Hill  twice  daily  ; from 
Stonington  4-5  times  daily  ; from  New  London,  daily  ; and  from  Norwich,  touch- 
ing at  New  London  and  Mystic,  daily. 

Watch  Hill  Point,  the  S.  W.  extremity  of  R.  I.,  is  a high,  bold  promon- 
tory, from  which  the  sandy  Narragansett  Beach  runs  E.,  while  to  the  W. 
Napatree  Beach,  a narrow  strip  of  sand,  runs  out  to  Sandy  Point.  From 
the  top  of  the  hill  a good  sea  view  is  obtained,  with  Block  Island  to  the 
S.  E.,  Fisher’s  Island  to  the  S.  W.,  and  the  town  of  Stonington  close  at 
hand  in  the  W.  From  its  fine  views,  excellent  bathing  beaches,  and  quiet 
and  unpretentious  hotels,  this  has  become  a favorite  summer  resort. 

In  August,  1872,  the  passenger  steamer  “ Metis,”  bound  from  New 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8. 


71 


York  to  Providence,  was  run  into  by  another  vessel  off  this  point.  She 
sank  in  deep  water,  in  the  storm  and  night,  and  25  or  more  of  her  passen- 
gers were  lost.  Most  of  the  corpses,  together  with  the  deck  of  the  vessel, 
were  thrown  up  on  Watch  Hill  Beach. 

After  Westerly  comes  Stonington  (the  * Wadawanuck  House  is  a large 
summer  hotel,  commanding  a line  water- view.  It  accommodates  140 
guests,  and  charges  $ 4. 50  a day  ; large  reduction  for  board  by  the 
season.  There  are  one  or  two  smaller  houses  here). 

This  district  (Pavvcatuck)  was  claimed  by  Mass,  as  hers  in  right  of  “joint  con- 
quest,” after  the  defeat  of  the  Pequods,  but  was  settled  in  1649  from  Connecticut. 
In  1801  it  became  a borough,  about  which  time  President  Dwight  wrote  that  “ Ston- 
ington and  all  its  vicinity  suffers  in  religion  from  the  nearness  of  R.  I.”  Aug.  9, 
1814,  the  borough  was  attacked  by  the  Ramilies,  74  ; the  Pactolus,  38  ; and 
several  other  British  vessels,  which  bombarded  it  for  three  days,  throwing  60  tons 
of  iron  into  it.  Four  attempts  to  land  were  repulsed  with  grapeshot,  with  heavy 
loss,  and  the Dispatch,  22,  was  seriously  injured  and  driven  off  by  a 3-gun  battery 
on  the  point.  The  town  was  deserted  by  its  people,  and  50  soldiers  were  scattered 
through  it  to  put  out  the  fires.  * 

Stonington  is  built  on  a narrow,  rocky  point,  with  quiet  streets,  embel- 
lished here  and  there  by  iron  relics  of  1814. 

Steamers  from  Stonington  to  Watch  Hill  6 times  daily  in  summer  (25c.). 

The  Stonington  Line  of  steamers  (to  New  York)  has  fine  boats  which  leave 
this  port  on  the  arrival  of  the  steamboat  train  from  Boston  (9-10  P.  M.),  and 
arrive  at  New  York  early  in  the  morning.  This  is  one  of  the  four  great  routes  to 
New  York,  the  others  being  the  Fall  River  Steamboat  Line,  the  Shore  Line  R.  R., 
and  the  R.  R.  route  via  Springfield  and  Hartford.  A new  line,  via  Willimantic 
and  New  Haven,  is  nearly  ready  for  travel. 

A line  of  packets  has  heretofore  run  from  Stonington  to  Block  Island,  and  a 
daily  steamer  is  promised  for  the  summer  of  1873. 

Block  Island  (Mitchell  House,  Spring  House)  was  named  for  Adrian  Block, 
the  Dutch  discoverer,  and  was  called  by  the  Indians  Manisees  (the  isle  of  the 
little  god).  The  natives  made  most  of  the  wampum  (money)  for  the  interior 
tribes.  In  1636,  they  captured  a Boston  vessel  near  the  island,  and  killed  the 
crew,  shortly  after  which  a Conn,  coaster  ran  down  on  her,  raking  the  decks  with 
musketry.  11  Indians  jumped  overboard  and  were  drowned,  but  the  rest  took 
refuge  in  the  hold.  The  coaster  then  towed  her  many  leagues  to  sea,  and,  having 
removed  her  sails,  let  her  go,  in  a fearful  storm.  To  avenge  the  murder  of  the 
Boston  sailors.  Gov.  Endicott  (who  had  cut  out  the  cross  from  the  British  flag 
with  his  rapier  as  “savoring  of  Popery”)  campaigned  on  Block  Island  under  the 
crossless  flag  and  destroyed  2 large  villages.  The  island  sent  60  ft.  of  wampum 
to  Boston  for  tribute,  in  1638,  and.  in  1661  an  English  settlement  was  made  here, 
which  was  incorporated  in  1672  as  New  Shoreham,  and  nearly  destroyed  by  a 
raid  from  French  vessels  in  1690. 

Block  Island  is  8 M.  long  by  from  2-4  M.  wide,  and  is  nearly  cut  in 
two  by  a great  salt-water  pond,  S.  of  which  is  the  thin  village  of  New 
Shoreham,  with  2 Baptist  churches.  There  are  many  abrupt  and  un- 
covered hills,  used  for  grazing.  The  men  are  mostly  employed  in  fishing, 
and  are  of  a simple,  sturdy,  and  primitive  race.  The  island  belongs 
to  R.  I.,  and  has  about  1300  inhabitants,  whose  number  is  slowly  decreas- 
ing. 

After  Stonington  comes  the  busy,  ship-building  village  of  Mystic  (Hoxie 
House). 


72  RouteS. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Near  Mystic,  on  the  N.,  is  Pequot  Hill,  which  was  attacked  May  26th,  1637,  by 
Mason,  who  had  marched  from  Narragansett  with  90  Englishmen,  and  460  Mohe- 
gans  and  Narragansetts,  under  the  Sachems  Uncas  and  Miantonomoh.  On 
arriving  before  the  Fort,  the  Indian  allies  were  afraid  to  attack,  and  drew  off, 
whereupon  the  colonial  soldiers  prepared  to  do  the  work  alone,  and  knelt  down 
in  prayer.  (The  Sachem  Wequash,  the  guide  of  the  forces,  was  amazed  at  this 
sight,  and  when  he  understood  it,  he  became  impressed  and  converted,  and 
preached  throughout  New  England  until  he  sealed  his  faith  by  a glorious  mar- 
tyrdom.) The  English  now  moved  steadily  to  the  assault,  and,  favored  by  the 
darkness,  succeeded  in  getting  inside  the  palisades,  but  they  were  soon  over- 
whelmed by  vastly  superior  numbers,  and  fell  back,  after  setting  fire  to  the  wig- 
wams. “The  greatness  and  violence  of  the  fire,  the  flashing  and  roaring  of  the 
arms,  the  shrieks  and  yells  of  men,  women,  and  children  within  the  Fort,  and  the 
shoutings  of  Indians  without,  just  at  the  dawning  of  the  morning,  exhibited  a 
grand  and  awful  scene.  The  Narragansetts,  Mohegans,  and  colonials  surrounded 
the  hill  and  shot  down  the  fugitives.  600  Pequots  were  shot  or  burnt  on  this 
dreadful  morning,  which  was  a death-blow  to  the  tribe.  “It  was  a fearful  sight 
to  see  them  frying  in  the  fire,  and  the  streams  of  blood  quenching  the  same,  and 
horrible  was  the  stink  and  scent  thereof ; but  the  victory  seemed  a sweet  sacri- 
fice, and  they  gave  the  praise  thereof  to  God.”  Cotton  Mather. 

4 M.  from  Pequot  Hill  (half-way  to  New  London)  is  Fort  Hill,  where 
Sassacus,  sachem  of  the  Pequots,  had  his  royal  fortress.  On  hearing  of 
the  attack  of  Mason,  the  chief  sent  300  of  his  best  warriors,  who  caused 
the  Indo-colonial  forces  great  loss  in  their  retreat.  But  meanwhile  those 
who  had  remained  in  the  fort  revolted,  and  Sassacus,  with  his  court  and 
chiefs,  was  forced  to  flee  to  the  Hudson  River,  whence  they  never 
returned,  and  the  tribal  organization  was  blotted  out  by  the  colonies,  who 
gave  for  slaves  to  the  friendly  tribes  those  remaining  of  the  dreaded 
Pequots  or  “ Destroyers.”  * There  is  a noble  view  from  Fort  Hill  (4  M. 

E.  of  New  London)  which  embraces  parts  of  15  towns,  4 counties,  3 
States,  20  islands,  7 lighthouses,  with  New  London,  Stonington,  Fort 
Griswold,  and  Fisher’s  Island  Sound. 

Groton  is  a very  hilly  township,  and  has  but  little  good  soil  (in  the 
river  valley).  In  1832,  40  Pequots  were  living  here  on  a reservation,  and 
still  heartily  hating  the  Narragansetts.  Silas  Deane,  an  early  American 
diplomatist,  who  died  in  poverty  and  sorrow  in  a strange  land,  after  hav- 
ing made  successful  negotiations  with  France,  &c.,  was  a native  of  Gro- 
ton. Between  1812  and  1819,  500,000  yards  of  cotton  cloth  were  woven 
at  home  by  women  with  hand-looms. 

Mystic  Island,  a quiet  summer  resort,  is  off  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

After  passing  the  station  of  Groton , the  cars  are  ferried  across  the 
Thames  River  to  New  London  (Metropolitan  House,  $2.50.  A new  and 
elegant  hotel  is  to  be  opened  here  in  the  summer  of  1873). 

New  London  is  a city  of  9,576  inhabitants,  on  a granite-strewn  declivity 
facing  S.  E. , on  a fine  harbor,  3 M.  long  and  30  ft.  deep. 

This  was  formerly  known  as  Pequot  Harbor,  and  was  raided  successively  by 
Mason,  Endicott,  and  Underhill,  and  was  settled  by  John  Winthrop,  Jr.,  in  1645. 

In  1658  the  Connecticut  Assembly  resolved,  “Whereas,  this  court  considering  - 


One  authority  says  that  Pequots  means  “ Gray  Foxes.” 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


RouteS.  73 


that  there  hath  yet  no  place  in  any  of  the  colonies  been  named  in  honor  of  the 
city  of  London,  there  being  a new  jdace,  within  this  jurisdiction  of  Connecticut 
settled  upon  that  fair  river  Mohegan  in  the  Pequot  country,  being  an  excellent 
harbor,  and  a fit  and  convenient  place  for  future  trade,  it  being  also  the  only  place 
in  these  parts  which  the  English  possessed  by  conquest,  and  that  upon  a very 
just  war,  upon  that  great  and  warlike  people,  the  Pequots,  we,  therefore,  that  we 
might  thereby  leave  to  posterity  that  we  memory  of  that  renowned  city  of  Lon- 
don, from  whence  we  had  our  transportation,  have  thought  fit,  in  honor  to 'that 
famous  city,  to  call  the  said  plantation,  New  London.”  In  1698,  the  pirate  Capt. 
Kidd  cruised  along  these  shores,  and  buried  on  Gardiner’s  Island  75  ounces  of 
gold,  633  ounces  of  silver,  and  a large  lot  of  precious  stones,  which  were  recov- 
ered by  the  Earl  of  Bellomont,  governor  at  Boston,  in  1699.  During  the  Revolu- 
tion, the  navy  of  Conn.,  consisting  of  26  vessels,  made  New  London  its  chief 
port ; and  here,  in  1776,  were  landed  the  governor,  officers,  and  plunder  from  New 
Providence  (of  the  Bahamas),  which  had  been  captured  by  an  American  fleet. 
Sept.  5,  1781,  the  renegade  raider  Benedict  Arnold  appeared  off  the  town  with  a 
fleet  and  a large  force  of  British  troops,  and  having  taken  Fort  Trumbull  he 
plundered  and  burnt  New  London.  At  the  same  time  a strong  detachment  made 
an  attack  on  Fort  Griswold  (across  the  river),  which  was  defended  by  Col.  Led- 
yard  with  150  militia-men.  The  sharp  fire  of  the  Americans  repulsed  the  first  at- 
tack, but  a bayonet-charge  ensued,  which  carried  the  enemy  into  the  fort.  The 
British  commander  was  killed  on  the  rampart,  and  the  Tory  Capt.  Bloomfield 
(from  New  Jersey)  took  his  place.  As  he  shouted,  “Who  commands  this  Fort?” 
Col.  Ledyard  gave  him  his  sword,  saying,  “ I did  command,  sir ; but  you  do 
now.”  The  infamous  renegade  ran  Ledyard  through  with  his  own  sword,  where- 
upon a general  massacre  ensued,  and  70  Americans  were  killed  and  30  wounded 
after  the  surrender.  In  storming  the  Fort  the  British  lost  191  men. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  to  Groton  heights,  where  are  the  remains 
of  old  Fort  Griswold,  near  which  is  a business-like  20-gun  battery,  in  ad- 
mirable order,  which  protects  the  channel.  Within  stone’s-throw  of  the 
fading  ramparts  of  the  old  Fort  is  a Monument  to  the  massacred  militia, 
— a noble  granite  shaft,  127  ft.  high,  and  26  ft.  square  at  the  base,  on 
which  is  inscribed,  <e  Zebulon  and  Naphthali  were  a people  that  jeoparded 
their  lives  till  death  in  the  high  places  of  the  Lord.”  A marble  tablet  at 
the  base  contains  the  names  of  the  slain,  which  will  be  seen  to  run  in 
families ; out  of  84  names,  9 are  Averys,  6 Perkinses,  4 Allyns,  4 Lesters, 
&c.  The  ascent  of  the  inside  of  the  monument  should  be  made  (key,  10 
c.  at  small  house  close  to  the  monument).  From  the  top  a *view  is 
gained  which  is  “ charming  for  the  student  of  nature  and  yet  more  charm- 
ing for  the  student  of  the  romance  of  American  history.”  — Lossing.  To 
the  W.  is  New  London,  with  its  spires  and  terraced  streets,  its  shipping, 
Fort  Trumbull’s  massive  walls,  and  up  the  river  the  widenings  of  the 
Thames  where  the  U.  S.  is  preparing  a Navy  Yard.  On  the  E.  are  the 
stony  hills  of  Groton,  with  Fort  Hill  4 M.  away  ; and  on  the  S.  the  mouth 
of  the  Thames  with  its  lighthouses,  hotels,  and  summer-cottages.  The 
long,  irregular  line  of  Fisher’s  Island  (9  M.  long),  belonging  to  New  York 
and  occupied  by  three  farms,  is  in  the  S.  E.  over  which  the  ocean  is  seen, 
and,  if  the  day  is  clear,  Block  Island  may  be  made  out  with  a strong 
glass.  Many  leagues  to  the  S.  E.  over  the  W.  end  of  Fisher’s  Island, 
may  be  seen  the  white  cliffs  of  Montauk  Point. 

A steam-ferry  (4c.)  leaves  the  foot  of  State  St.  every  15  min.  for  Gro- 
4 


7 4 Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


ton.  J M.  E.  of  the  old  Fort,  Col.  Ledyard  is  buried  under  a monument 
erected  by  the  State. 

New  London  is  built  on  a declivity,  which  is  ascended  by  State  St.  from 
the  R.  R.  Station  to  the  County  Court  House,  passing  on  the  r.  the  brown- 
stone  City  Hall  and  Post  Office,  and  a fine  Cong.  Church  of  granite  with 
a spire  of  the  same  material.  Near  the  Court  House  is  St.  James’  Epis- 
copal Church,  a large  brown-stone  edifice  in  whose  chancel  is  buried 
Samuel  Seabury,  the  first  Anglican  bishop  in  the  Republic.  The  English 
bishops  (in  1784)  would  not  consecrate  him,  but  the  office  was  performed 
by  3 bishops  of  the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church,  after  which  he  preached 
at  New  London  for  12  years.  On  Federal  St.  in  a lofty  situation  is  a 
massive  and  extensive  Cong.  Church,  near  which  is  an  ancient  cemetery 
which  overlooks  the  harbor.  The  lofty  towered  new  school-house  on  the 
hill,  and  the  spacious  (but  unfinished)  Catholic  Church  on  Huntington 
St.  are  fine  buildings.  1 M.  N.  is  Cedar  Grove  Cemetery.  Bank  St.  is 
the  main  business  avenue  of  the  city.  Fort  Trumbull  is  a massive  and 
powerful  granite  fortress  with  a heavy  armament,  but  built  too  near  the 
city  to  keep  it  unscathed. 

“ New  London  is  a stagnant  old  town,  where  nothing  moves  except  the  fish 
and  the  boats  in  the  harbor.  The  natives,  who  loiter  around  corner  groceries  and 
fish-stalls,  live  so  somnolently  that,  when  anything  happens,  they  pinch  them- 
selves to  determine  if  they  are  awake.  Catching  fish  and  eating  them  compre- 
hend the  whole  of  existence  ; and  sitting  in  the  shade  and  smoking,  the  highest 
luxuries  they  long  for.”  Such  is  Junius  Browne’s  slightly  exaggerated  descrip- 
tion. 

Cod  and  whale  fishing  is  extensively  carried  on  from  this  port,  and  in 
the  summer  of  1872,  6 vessels  sailed  thence  to  hunt  seals  about  the  S. 
Shetland  Isles. 

The  Harbor  road  leads  by  Fort  Trumbull,  and  through  a line  of  cot- 
tages, in  3 - 4 M.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  near  which  is  the  * Pequot 
House,  a costly  and  exclusive  aristocratic  resort,  which  accommodates 
about  500  guests,  at  $ 5 a day  each.  A village  of  pretty  cottages  has 
grown  up  in  this  vicinity.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Thames  is  the 
Ocean  House  (quieter  and  much  less  expensive)  and  Thompson’s  Hotel. 

Steamers  run  twice  daily  (in  summer)  to  Watch  Hill  Point.  Aline  runs  also  to 
Sag  Harbor,  Long  Island.  Two  steamers  leave  daily  for  New  York  (distance  126 
M.)  by  the  Norwich  Line. 

The  New  London  Northern  Division  of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.  runs  N.  W. 
from  this  city  to  Palmer,  Amherst,  and  the  State  of  Vermont. 

After  leaving  New  London  the  Shore  Line  R.  R.  passes  Waterford 
(Niantic  Hotel,)  and  E.  Lyme , where  at  the  village  of  Niantic  (Howard 
House),  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  are  found  fishing  and  boating  ad- 
vantages. This  territory,  from  the  Thames  to  the  Connecticut,  was 
formerly  held  by  the  Niantic  Indians,  a clan  of  the  Narragansetts,  who 
under  their  sachem,  Ninigret  (brother  of  Canonicus,  and  uncle  of  Mian- 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8.  75 


tonomoh)  conquered  the  Long  Island  Indians.  The  colonies  declared 
war  against  Ninigret  twice,  on  absurd  pretexts,  but  he  escaped  without 
fighting,  though  his  territories  were  ravaged,  and  in  King  Philip’s  War 
he  kept  his  people  from  attacking  the  English.  His  great-grandson  was 
sachem  of  the  clan  in  1746,  and,  selling  the  reservation  in  Lyme,  moved 
his  people  to  the  Oneida  country  in  New  York.  Lyme  was  settled  in 
1664,  and  long  disputed  about  its  boundaries  with  New  London,  until 
two  champions  were  chosen  by  each  plantation,  who  met  on  the  debata- 
ble ground,  and  in  a pugilistic  contest,  in  which  the  Lyme  men  were 
victorious,  their  town  secured  the  boundary  which  it  claimed.  Shortly 
after  passing  the  venerable  hamlet  of  Old  Lyme  (on  the  r.)  the  railroad 
crosses  the  Connecticut  River  on  a long  bridge,  and  stops  at  Saybrook, 
whence  trains  on  the  Conn.  Valley  R.  R.  run  S.  to  Saybrook  Point  and 
the  shore. 

On  Saybrook  Point  a fort  was  built  by  Plymouth  in  1635,  and  well  armed, 
several  of  the  cannon  remaining  here  in  1800.  In  1636  Col.  Fenwick  came  here  to 
rule  the  plantation,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord  Say  and  Sele,  and  Lord 
Brook.  In  1637  the  Pequots  ambushed  and  destroyed  a detachment  near  the 
fort,  and  attempted  to  carry  the  works  by  assault,  but  were  received  with  such 
discharges  of  grapeshot  that  they  gave  it  up,  and,  capturing  several  vessels 
above  the  Point,  put  their  crews  to  death  with  horrible  tortures.  Lady  Fenwick 
died' in  1648,  and  her  husband  sold  the  territory  to  Conn.,  returned  to  England, 
and  was  one  of  the  regicide  judges.  The  fort  effectually  prevented  Dutch  vessels 
from  ascending  to  reinforce  Hartford,  and  in  1675  forced  Andros’s  fleet  to  lie  out- 
side of  the  river.  Springfield  vessels  refused  to  pay  the  toll  demanded  at  the 
Fort,  and  appealed  to  Mass. , which  put  a toll  on  all  Conn,  vessels  entering  Boston 
Harbor,  and  soon  enforced  a colonial  reciprocity.  In  1701  Yale  College  was 
chartered  and  located  at  Saybrook,  and  remained  there  1707  - 17,  where  it  held  its 
first  15  commencements,  it  then  occupied  a one-story  building  80  ft.  long  on  the 
peninsula  near  the  Fort.  The  celebrated  Saybrook  Platform  was  drawn  up  here 
in  1708,  because  “the  churches  must  have  a public  profession  of  faith  agreeable 
to  which  the  instruction  of  the  college  shall  be  conducted.”  On  Good  Friday, 
1814,  400  British  sailors,  in  the  boats  of  the  “ La  Hogue,”  74,  took  the  Fort  and 
ascended  the  river  20  M.  destroying  27  vessels.  The  commander  of  this  raid  was 
Sir  William  E.  Parry,  afterwards  famous  for  his  Arctic  voyages.  “The  steep, 
solitary  hill  near  the  river,”  on  which  still  stood  the  remains  of  the  Fort,  was  cut 
away  by  the  railroad  in  1871  - 2,  to  make  embankments  with.  It  is  fortunate  that 
the  Acropolis  and  the  temples  of  Baalbec  are  not  in  America. 

In  the  cemetery  at  Saybrook  Point  is  the  transplanted  monument  of 
Lady  Fenwick,  and  1 J - 2 M.  beyond  is  the  quiet,  elm-shaded,  and  wealthy 
village  of  Old  Saybrook. 

The  railroad  now  runs  across  a wide  cove,  and  stops  close  to  * Fenwick 
Hall,  an  elegant  new  hotel,  accommodating  300  guests. 

A stony  strand  leads  to  Lynde’s  Point  on  the  E.  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  with  its  lighthouse.  On  the  W.,  near  Cornfield  Point,  is  a small 
bathing-beach.  Several  fine  cottages  are  near  Fenwick  Hall,  from  which 
the  Long  Island  shore  is  seen.  In  seasons  of  long  adverse  winds,  a fleet 
of  150  -200  sail  sometimes  collects  in  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

Steamers  running  between  Hartford  and  the  river  villages  and  New  York,  New 
London,  and  Sag  Harbor  touch  at  Saybrook  Point. 

The  Connecticut  Valley  R.  R.  runs  from  Saybrook  Point  to  Hartford  (Route  14). 


7 6 Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


After  Saybrook,  the  Shore  Line  R.  R.  passes  Westbrook  (Westbrook 
Hotel)  and  Clinton  (Clinton  House,  Bacon  House),  near  which,  on  the 
N.,  is  the  pretty  and  secluded  village  of  Killingworth  ( Redfield's  Hotel) 
where  Asahel  Nettleton,  the  evangelist,  was  born  in  1783.  The  Indian 
name  of  this  place  was  Hammon asset,  but  the  settlers  changed  it  to  Kenil- 
worth, which  was  registered,  by  accident,  Killingworth.  The  pastor  of 
this  parish  was  chosen  first  President  of  Yale  College,  but  as  he  refused 
to  go  to  Saybrook,  the  students  were  obliged  to  come  to  him,  and  so  the 
college  was  practically  here,  1701  - 7,  though  holding  its  commencements 
at  Saybrook.  Longfellow’s  poem,  “ The  Birds  of  Killingworth,”  will  be 
remembered  here.  Stations,  Madison  (Hammonasset  House),  E.  River , 
and  Guilford.  Guilford  (Guilford  House)  was  settled  by  4 immigrants 
from  Kent  and  Surrey  in  1639,  on  the  Indian  tract  called  Menuncatuck. 
They  were  led  by  their  pastor,  Henry  Whitefield,  “ a man  of  marvellous 
majesty  and  sanctity.”  The  regicides  were  hidden  here  for  some  time, 
and  in  1781  3 frigates  landed  a force  near  the  village,  but  the  rapidly 
gathering  militia  drove  them  off.  During  the  extermination  of  the 
Pequots,  in  1637,  the  Mohegan  Sachem  Uncas  pursued  a Pequot  chief  to 
this  point,  and  having  shot  him  on  the  shore,  put  his  head  in  the  fork  of 
an  oak-tree,  where  it  stayed  many  years,  and  the  point  is  still  called 
Sachem’s  Head. 

Fitz  Green  Halleck,  the  versatile  poet,  was  born  at  Guilford  in  1790,  and  in  his 
later  years  retired  here  and  lived  on  a handsome  pension  allowed  him  by  the  As- 
tors,  of  New  York.  He  died  in  1867. 

W.  H.  H.  Murray,  the  popular  pulpit  orator,  and  pastor  of  Park  St.  Church, 
Boston,  since  1868,  was  born  at  Guilford  in  1840. 

The  village  is  a very  pretty  one,  built  around  an  extensive  tree-studded 
and  enclosed  green,  on  which  5 churches  front. 

Near  the  village  on  the  S.  is  Guilford  Point  (Pavilion,  Guilford  Point 
House,  &c. ),  and  across  the  harbor  is  the  bold  and  picturesque  promontory 
of  Sachem’s  Head,  where  formerly  stood  a large  hotel. 

Station,  Stony  Creek  (Stony  Creek,  Brainerd,  Thimble  Island,  and  In- 
dian Point  Houses,  all  small  and  inexpensive),  famed  for  its  large  and 
delicious  oysters.  The  romantic  group  of  the  Thimble  Islands  lies  off 
shore  here,  and  may  be  reached  by  boat  from  the  Indian  Point  Hotel 
(25-  50  c. ).  On  Money  and  Pot  Islands  are  small  and  primitive  hotels,  with 
cabins  and  cottages,  while  around  and  between  these  rocky  and  wooded 
islets  rowing  and  sailing  is  full  of  pleasant  surprises.  Money  Island  was 
one  of  the  rover  Capt.  Kidd’s  resorts,  and  it  has  been  dug  all  over  by 
treasure-seekers. 

Station,  Branford,  (Branford  House  , on  land  sold  by  the  Sachem 
of  Quinnipiac  to  the  English  in  1638,  he  being  glad  to  get  an  ally  against 
the  dreaded  Mohawks.  It  was  named  from  Brentford,  where  Edmund 
Ironside  fought  the  Danes.  The  shore  hereabouts  is  lined  with  sum- 


A B c r 5 M 

1 

1 

i 

2. 

4 

!» 

i 

^^Smt&lfi^S^f 

"X  bn't^nWM-  ■ nww. 

//  1 I o&Ci^ 7 ^mvf  \V^^^V\\  \ 1 H.H.  Station.  1)4  7.  Centre  Church . ( . 

fi  ' II .Jl 11 11 —J |^— j1  jrfyyY  ■ ' ' ,'^Xi\  ' oIlN^  2.  Heu>  Haven  Hotel  Ah.  8.  Trinity  " ' C- 

Jrrfzl  1 1 A y/S  YW  3. Tontine  - . C4  §.  Stale  Hospital. B 

Jjn\  |L w/f''>y  mX),  'lid  4.  Old  State  Meuse  . CslO.  Sr/e/ttifi'rSAuW.C 

M-S\. ly P//Y  Vv^/  ///^  5.  Art.  Galtetj  . Ca 11.  illy  Ht/l . Cj 

X ^ 1 1 f Iff  if  . — *6.  Alumni  Hall.  Ct>  \2... \f t/sie  Hall . O 

A B C D E F[GjH 

BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8. 


77 


mer  hotels,  — the  Montana,  Sea  View,  Totocket,  Pine  Orchard,  &c.  On 
Indian  Neck  are  the  Indian  Neck  and  Montowese  (200  guests)  Houses, 
both  about  2 M.  from  Branford  station.  At  the  head  of  “ the  rocky- 
shored  and  island-sprinkled  bay  of  Branford  ” is  the  large  * Branford 
Point  House  (160-200  guests),  distant  8 M.  from  New  Haven,  and  near 
by  is  the  favorite  Double  Beach  House  (100  guests,  $3-3.50  a day). 

In  1665,  the  colonies  of  Hartford  and  New  Haven  were  united  by  royal 
order  and  the  common  consent.  The  people  of  Branford  had  steadily 
opposed  this  union,  and  when  it  was  consummated,  they  moved  in  a solid 
body,  headed  by  their  pastor,  and  bearing  all  their  household  goods,  to 
Newark,  N.  J.,  and  the  site  of  Branford  was  silent  and  deserted  for 
years. 

Station,  E.  Haven,  an  ancient  resort  of  the  Indians  (for  oysters,  &c. ), 
and  the  seat  of  iron-works  in  1655,  now  has  large  copper-smelting  works. 
The  train  now  passes  Saltonstall  Lake,  crosses  the  Quinnipiac  River,  runs 
through  Fairhaven,  and  enters 

New  Haven. 

Hotels.  * New  Haven  House,  corner  College  and  Chapel  Sts.,  opposite  the 
College,  $4-4.50  a day;  * Tontine  Hotel,  corner  Church  and  Court  Sts.,  a quiet 
old  house  fronting  the  Green,  $ 3 a day  ; Tremont  House  ; Park  House  ; Madison 
House,  &c. 

Restaurants.  Lockwood’s  Dining-Rooms  near  the  Park  ; the  Florence  House, 
Union  St.,  and  for  a lunch,  Hoadley’s,  near  the  college  and  a famous  resort  of  the 
students.  The  best  oysters  may  be  had  in  Fairhaven. 

Carriages.  The  regular  tariff  is  50  c.  for  one  passenger  for  one  course  in  the 
city,  or  for  two  passengers  35  c.  each. 

Horse-Cars  (head-quarters  at  the  foot  of  the  Green)  run  to  Fairhaven  and 
E.  Haven,  to  W.  Chapel  St.,  to  Westville  and  W.  Rock,  to  Centreville,  to  E. 
Rock,  and  in  summer  to  W.  Haven  and  Savin  Rock. 

Telegrapli  Offices.  Western  Union,  on  Chapel  St.,  near  R.  R.  Station  ; 
Franklin  Co.,  on  State,  near  Chapel  St.  Post  Office  on  Church  St.  near  Chapel  St. 

Reading-Rooms.  In  the  hotels,  and  at  the  Young  Men’s  Institute,  Phoenix 
Building,  Chapel  St.  Also  at  the  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  rooms,  over 
the  City  Bank,  corner  of  Chapel  and  Orange  Sts. 

Amusements.  Popular  lectures,  theatrical  entertainments,  concerts,  &c. 
are  frequently  held  in  Music  Hall  (accommodating  2,500  persons)  on  Crown  St. 
between  Temple  and  Church  Sts. 

Railroads.  At  this  point  converge  the  New  Haven,  New  London,  and  Ston- 
ington  R.  R.  (see  preceding  pages)  ; the  New  Haven,  Middletown,  and  Williman- 
t c (Air  Line  route,  Boston  to  New  York) ; the  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Spring- 
field  R.  R.  (grand  route  from  Boston  to  New  York,  via  Springfield)  ; the  New  Haven 
and  Northampton  (Canal)  R.  R.  ; the  New  Haven  and  Derby  R.  R.  ; and  the 
New  York  and  New  Haven  R.  R.,  which  is  the  last  division  of  all  three  of  the 
land  routes  from  Boston  (see  succeeding  pages). 

Steamboats.  Steamers  leave  for  New  York  twice  daily  (morning  and  even- 
ing) making  the  voyage  in  5 hours.  Fate  $ 1,  dinner  and  state-rooms  extra.  The 
Citizens’  Line  runs  boats  to  New  York  every  morning.  Steamers  run  (in  summer, 

4 times  daily)  to  the  beaches  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor. 

Stages  run  from  New  Haven  to  Hartford  via  Durham,  to  North  Branford  and 
Deep  River,  &c. 

John  Davenport  (of  Magdalen  College),  a powerful  parish  pastor  of  London, 
joined  the  Puritan  wing  of  the  Anglican  Church,  and  in  1637  was  forced  to  leave 
England,  with  many  of  his  people.  After  nearly  a year’s  sojourn  at  Boston,  he 
set  sail  with  his  people,  and  landed  at  Quinnipiac,  the  present  site  of  New  Haven, 


7 8 Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YOBK. 


in  April,  1638.  His  was  “ the  most  opulent  colony  which  came  into  New  Eng- 
land,” and  they  laid  out  a city  with  9 squares  for  buildings  enclosing  a large  cen- 
tral square  (the  Green),  though  their  houses  only  occupied  then  a small  space  on 
the  present  George  St.,  between  Church  and  College  Sts.  The  colony  was  gov- 
erned for  many  years  by  its  7 most  prominent  church-members,  after  a curious 
and  impressive  sermon  by  Davenport  from  the  text,  “ Wisdom  hath  builded  her 
house  ; she  hath  hewn  out  her  7 pillars.”  One  of  the  chief  of  these  was  the 
pure  and  learned  Davenport,  who  was  revered  by  the  Indians  as  “so  big  study 
man,”  and  for  whom  Cotton  Mather  composed 

“ Epitaphium  .Tohnannes  Davenportus,  in  Portum  delatus. 

Vivus,  Nov-Angliaa  ac  Ecclesiae  Ornamentum, 

Mortuus,  utriusque  triste  Desiderium.” 

In  1638  the  7 pillars  bought  of  the  Indians  130  square  M.  of  land  for  13  coats, 
and  in  1639  the  truculent  Nepaupuck  was  tried  for  murder  and  beheaded  on  the 
Green,  where  his  head  was  long  exposed.  The  trading-posts  of  New  Haven  on 
the  Delaware  River  were  broken  up  by  the  Swedes,  and  other  losses  combined 
to  discourage  the  settlers,  who  resolved  to  go  to  Jamaica,  and  then  completed 
negotiations  to  buy  Galloway,  in  Ireland.  The  ship  which  bore  their  “commer- 
cial estates,”  sailed  under  Capt.  Lamberton  for  Galloway,  in  Jan.,  1647,  but  never 
was  heard  from  afterwards,  save  when,  as  the  legend  says,  the  spectre  of  the  ship 
sailed  into  the  harbor  in  the  teeth  of  a head-wind,  and  when  in  full  view  of  the 
anxious  people,  it  slowly  melted  into  thin  air,  and  vanished.  The  colonists 
remained  at  New  Haven,  and  in  1665  this  plantation  was  united  with  that  of  Con- 
necticut (Hartford)  on  condition  that  each  town  should  retain  the  dignity  of  cap- 
ital ; so  to  this  day  the  State  has  two  semi-capitals.  In  1755,  the  “ Conn.  Gazette  ” 
was  established  here,  and  became  the  pioneer  of  the  8 weekly  and  semiweekly, 
and  the  3 daily  papers  of  New  Haven.  In  Jan.,  1761,  7 companies  of  militia  and 
the  council  convened,  and  proclaimed  George  III.  King,  drinking  to  him,  the 
royal  family,  and  the  King  of  Prussia.  In  1775,  Benedict  Arnold  (afterwards  so 
famous  and  infamous)  led  to  Cambridge  the  Governor’s  Guards,  the  best  company 
in  the  army.  At  sunrise,  July  5th,  1779,  1,500-2,000  Hessians  and  Tories  were 
landed  at  W.  Haven  Point,  from  48  British  vessels.  They  took  the  fort  and 
town,  which  they  plundered  and  partially  burnt.  They  were  much  galled  by  the 
militia  who  hovered  on  their  flanks  and  fought  them  in  the  streets.  Rev.  Dr. 
Napthali  Daggett,  President  of  Yale  College,  was  captured  by  them  with  fowling- 
piece  in  hand,  and  forced  to  guide  their  columns.  When  wellnigh  dead  from 
mortification,  and  sore  from  repeated  bayonet-wounds,  he  was  asked,  “Will  you 
light  again?”  The  militant  divine  answered,  “I  rather  believe  I shall,  if  I have 
an  opportunity.”  He  or  another  pastor  of  the  town  was  forced  to  pray  for  the 
King,  which  he  did  as  follows  : “ O Lord,  bless  thy  servant  King  George,  and 
grant  him  wisdom,  for  thou  knowest,  O Lord,  he  needs  it.”  Yale  College  was 
transferred  to  New  Haven  in  1717.  In  1820  the  town  had  8,326  inhabitants  ; in 
1870  50,840. 

New  Haven,  “The  City  of  Elms,”  a semi-capital  of  Conn.,  is  built  on 
a flat,  alluvial  plain,  at  the  head  of  a bay  which  sets  in  from  Long  Island 
Sound.  It  is  a handsome  city,  of  modern  appearance,  rich  in  stately  elm- 
trees,  and  surrounded  by  picturesque  hills.  The  city  has  a large  West 
India  trade,  and  has  about  $10,000,000  invested  in  manufactures,  which 
in  1869  turned  out  6,000  hay-cutters,  50,000  scales,  200,000  corsets,  1,200 
Eureka  organs,  600  Colibri  pianos,  and.  about  20  carriages  daily.  Fish- 
lines, saws,  Baumgarten  church- organs,  and  cars  are  also  made  in  great 
numbers,  while  Sargent  & Co.  employ  800  men  in  vast  hardware  works. 
Chapel,  State,  and  Church  are  the  principal  streets,  the  two  former  in- 
tersecting near  the  cavernous  railroad  station.  There  are  several  hand- 
some churches  here,  and  a very  interesting  old  cemetery  (on  Grove  St., 
at  the  head  of  High). 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK.  Route  8.  79 


Among  those  buried  here  are  Jeliudi  Aslimun,  agent,  fortifier,  and  defender  of 
Liberia;  Arthur  Tappan,  the  philanthropist;  Harry  Crosswell,  D.  D.,  dashing 
political  editor,  1802-14,  and  rector  of  Trinity  Church,  New  Haven,  1815-58  ; N. 
W.  Taylor,  D.  D.,  a disciple  of  Edwards  and  professor  of  didactic  theology  in 
Yale,  1823-58  ; Lyman  Beecher,  D.  D.,  “the  most  widely  known  and  influential 
preacher  in  the  country,  between  1815  and  1851  ” ; Timothy  Dwight,  D.  D.,  grand- 
son of  Jonathan  Edwards,  a distinguished  theologian  and  poet,  and  President  of 
Yale,  1795-1817,  who  rode  horseback  through  New  England  and  N.  Y.  and  pub- 
lished an  account  of  it  in  4 volumes,  also  a system  of  theology  in  5 volumes  ; Den- 
ison Olmsted,  LL.  D.,  professor  of  natural  philosophy  and  astronomy  at  Yale, 
1825-59,  and  a profound  astronomer  ; C.  A.  Goodrich,  D.  D.,  theologian  and 
j lexicographer,  professor  of  rhetoric  at  Yale,  1817-39;  Noah  Webster,  LL.  D., 
author  and  publicist,  whose  “ Elementary  Spelling-Book  ” had  a sale  of  50,000,000 
copies,  and  who  prepared  (1807  - 28)  and  published  a Dictionary  of  the  English 
language  which  has  since  been  the  standard  ; Benjamin  Silliman,  professor  of 
| chemistry  at  Yale,  1802-55,  one  of  the  foremost  scientists  of  his  time  ; Jedediah 
Morse,  D.  D.,  “the  father  of  American  geography”;  S.  F.  B.  Morse  (born  1791, 
died  1872),  who,  in  1844,  put  in  operation  the  first  electric  telegraph  in  the  U.  S., 
who  was  covered  with  honors  by  European  sovereigns  and  societies,  and  in  1857, 
was  presented  with  400,000  francs  by  a continental  assembly  at  Paris  ; Elbridge 
Gerry,  Vice-President  of  the  U.  S.,  1812-16  ; R.  S.  Skinner,  Gov.  of  Conn.,  1844- 
6,  and  U.  S.  Senator,  1847-51  ; David  Daggett,  sometime  Chief  Justice,  and  U.  S. 
jj  Senator,  1813-19  ; S.  W.  S.  Dutton,  D.  D.,  and  Gov.  Henry  Dutton  ; Prof.  Mur- 
dock and  Sidney  E.  Morse  ; James  Hillhouse,  U.  S.  Senator,  1794-1810,  and  James 
A.  Hillhouse,  the  poet  of  Sachem’s  Wood  ; Andrew  H.  Foote,  Rear-admiral  U.  S. 
Navy,  born  in  New  Haven,  1806,  died  1863.  He  fought  the  West  India  and 
Sumatra  pirates,  and  in  1856  attacked  the  4 Barrier- Forts  at  Canton,  China,  with 
I the  “Portsmouth”  and  “Levant.”  After  a bombardment,  at  the  head  of  280 
men,  he  landed  and  stormed  the  forts  in  succession,  though  they  were  heavy 
1 granite  works,  mounting  176  cannon,  and  defended  by  5,000  men.  In  1862  (Feb.  - 
! April)  in  a short,  sharp  campaign  at  the  head  of  the  iron-clad  squadron  on  the 
Tennessee  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  he  assisted  in  the  reduction  of  Forts  Henry, 
Donelson,  and  Island  No.  10.  He  was  a very  religious  man,  and  was  accustomed 
to  preach  to  his  sailors  every  Sunday. 

Jonathan  Knight,  professor  of  surgery  at  Yale,  1838-64;  James  L.  Kingsley, 
professor  of  Hebrew,  Greek,  and  Latin,  at  Yale,  1805  - 51 ; David  Humphreys, 
the  aid-de-camp  and  friend  of  Washington,  and  minister  to  Portugal  and  Spain, 
; 1790-1802  ; Tlieophilus  Eaton,  Gov.  of  the  New  Haven  colony,  1638-57  ; Roger 
Sherman,  from  1774  to  1793  a member  of  the  Continental  Congress,  and  a signer 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  who  “never  said  a foolish  thing  in  his  life” 
J (Jefferson);  Theodore  Winthrop,  the  knightly  soldier  (author  of  “ Cecil  Dreeme,” 
i “ Canoe  and  Saddle,”  &c.),  who  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Great  Bethel,  June  10, 
1861  ; Ezra  Stiles,  long  President  of  Yale  ; and  Eli  Whitney,  the  inventor  of  the 
? cotton-gin. 

Among  the  broad  streets  lined  with  noble  elms  which  extend  on  the  N. 
and  W.  of  the  Green,  the  most  beautiful  is  Hillhouse  Ave.,  a broad, 
j park-like  drive,  flanked  by  fine  mansions,  at  the  head  of  which  is  the  man- 
sion and  domain,  “ Sachem’s  Wood,”  belonging  to  the  Hillhouses.  In 
the  W.  part  of  the  city  is  the  Orphan  Asylum,  Alms  House,  and  County 
Prison.  But  the  chief  interest  of  New  Haven  centres  in  and  about  the 
Public  Green.  Here,  on  Church  St.  is  the  City  Hall,  one  of  the  most 
elegant  municipal  buildings  in  New  England,  and  the  Third  Cong.  Church. 
On  Chapel  St.  is  the  lofty  and  pretentious  new  mercantile  Building  of 
Hoadley.  The  Public  Green  itself  is  a great  lawn,  studded  with  fine 
trees,  and  often  used  for  parades.  The  North,  Centre,  and  Trinity 
! churches  stand  in  line  near  the  middle  of  the  Green  (the  first  two  are 
i Cong.,  and  the  last  is  Episcopal),  and  preserve  a curiously  ancient  appear- 


80  Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


ance.  Back  of  the  Centre  Church  is  the  monument  to  the  regicide,  John 
Dixwell,  a member  of  a prominent  Kentish  family,  a colonel  in  the  Par- 
liamentary army,  and  a member  of  the  British  State  Council,  who  fled  to 
New  Haven  at  the  Restoration.  Near  him  is  buried  a fellow-judge, 
Edward  Whalley.  On  the  Public  Green,  near  Temple  St.,  is  the  State 
House,  a building  in  the  simple  and  imposing  Grecian  Doric  architecture, 
but  constructed  of  brick  and  stucco,  and  presenting  a very  dingy  appear- 
ance. The  legislature  meets  here  on  the  even-numbered  years  (1872, 1874, 
&c. ) and  the  alternate  years  the  sessions  are  held  at  Hartford.  Temple 
St.,  with  a glorious  * Gothic  arch  of  elm-trees,  separates  the  Green  from 
the  grounds  of 

Yale  College. 

In  the  year  1700  ten  clergymen  planned  to  erect  a college  in  the  colony  of 
Conn.,  and  to  further  that  end,  contributed  as  many  books  as  they  could  spare, 
for  its  library.  In  1701,  it  was  chartered,  and  its  classes  recited  at  Killing-worth 
until  1707,  when  it  removed  to  Saybrook  Point,  and  in  1717  a final  remove  (it  is 
hoped)  was  made  to  New  Haven.  At  an  early  date  the  college  was  named  in 
honor  of  Elihu  Yale  (born  at  New  Haven  in  1648),  Gov.  of  Madras,  and  afterwards 
Gov.  of  the  East  India  Company,  who  gave  £400  towards  its  support.  The 
Presidents  of  Yale  : Timothy  Dwight,  Ezra  Stiles,  Theodore  D.  Woolsey  (1846  - 71), 
and  others,  will  compare  favorably  with  the  corresponding  officers  of  Harvard. 
After  the  secularization  of  Harvard  University,  the  Orthodox  churchmen  rallied 
on  Yale.  This  college  has  done  a noble  work  of  education,  and  especially  in 
shaping  and  strengthening  those  minds  of  Conn,  which  have  been  so  busy  and 
honored  throughout  the  Republic. 

Said  De  Tocqueville  in  a Fourth  of  July  dinner  at  Paris  : “ Von  day  I vas  in  the 
gallery  of  the  House  of  Representatives.  I held  in  my  hand  a map  of  the  Con- 
federation. Dere  vas  one  leetle  yellow  spot  called  Connect-de-coot.  I found 
by  de  Constitution  he  was  entitled  to  six  of  his  boys  to  represent  him  on  dat 
floor.  But  when  I make  the  acquaintance  person elle  with  the  member,  I find 
dat  more  than  tirty  (30)  of  the  Representative  on  dat  floor  was  born  in  Connect- 
de-coot.  And  den  ven  I vas  in  de  gallery  of  the  House  of  the  Senate,  1 find  de 
Constitution  permit  dis  State  to  send  two  of  his  boys  to  represent  him  in  dat 
legislature.  But  once  more,  ven  I make  de  acquaintance  personelle  of  the 
Senator,  I find  nine  of  the  Senator  was  born  in  Connect-de-Coot. 

* ‘ And  now  for  my  grand  sentiment  — Connect-de-Coot,  the  leetle  yellow  spot 
dat  make  de  clock-pedier,  the  schoolmaster,  and  the  Senator  ; de  first  give  you 
time,  the  second  tell  you  what  to  do  with  him,  and  de  third  make  your  law  and 
civilization.” 

The  line  of  ancient  buildings  fronting  on  Temple  St.  comprises  S. 
College  (built  1793),  Athenseum  (built  for  a chapel,  1761),  S.  Middle 
College  (1750),  Lyceum  and  N.  Middle  College  (1803),  Chapel  (1824), 
N.  College  (1822),  and  Division  College  (1835).  These  are  used  for 
dormitories  and  recitation-rooms,  as  i,s  also  Durfee  Hall  (1871,)  and 
Farnum  Hall  (1872),  two  handsome  new  buildings  on  the  N.  end.  Three 
fine  buildings  are  aligned  on  High  St.,  on  the  N.  the  Alumni  Hall,  a 
a neat  red-sandstone  building  with  a large  hall  in  which  are  hung  portraits 
of  many  distinguished  graduates.  In  this  Hall  are  conducted  the  ex- 
aminations of  new  men,  the  Commencement  exercises,  and  the  meetings 
of  the  alumni.  The  Linonian  Society  and  the  Brothers  in  Unity  have 
halls  in  this  building.  Next  S.  is  the  ornate  turreted  building  of  the 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8.  81 


College  Library,  with  numerous  ivy-vines  (planted  with  great  ceremony 
by  each  graduating  class)  climbing  up  its  sandstone  walls.  The  Library 
contains  90,000  volumnes.  Next  S.  is  the  Old  Commons’  Hall,  now  used 
for  lecture-rooms,  and  for  the  display  of  the  great  geological  cabinets, 
&c.,  prepared  by  Silliman,  in  which  is  the  Gibbs  collection  of  25,000 
specimens,  including  several  European  collections.  Next  comes  the  costly 
modem  building  of  the  Art  Gallery  (see  below).  Among  the  smaller 
houses  on  the  square  are  the  old  Trumbull  Gallery,  and  the  little  labora- 
tory formerly  used  by  the  elder  Silliman,  and  preserved  as  a relic  of  that 
eminent  scientist.  The  Gymnasium  (said  to  be  the  best  in  the  U.  S. ) is 
on  Library  St.,  and  the  boat-house  of  the  Yale  Navy  is  near  Tomlinson’s 
Bridge.  Curious  buildings  near  the  square  are  occupied  by  the  college 
societies  : the  Psi  Upsilon,  on  High,  near  College  St.  ; the  Delta  Kappa 
Epsilon,  on  York,  near  Library  St.  ; the  Scroll  and  Keys,  corner  Wall  and 
College  Sts.,  &c.  Yale  is  properly  a University,  having,  besides  its  large 
academic  department,  the  Sheffield  Scientific  School,  in  a fine  building  on 
Grove  St.,  with  140-150  students  ; the  Law  School,  on  Church  St.,  near 
the  City  Hall  ; the  Medical  College,  on  York,  near  Chapel  St.  ; the  School 
of  the  Fine  Arts,  and  the  Theological  School  in  a large  new  building. 
Corner  of  Elm  and  College  Sts.,  with  the  neat  Marquand  Chapel  attached. 
In  1871  there  were  644  men  in  the  academic  department,  with  68  instruc- 
tors ; and  215  in  the  professional  schools,  with  20  - 25  instructors.  The 
Annual  Commencement  (last  Thursday  in  July)  is  a great  day  in  New 
Haven,  the  exercises  being  conducted  in  the  Centre  Church  and  the 
Alumni  Hall. 

A large  reading-room  is  in  S.  Middle  College.  George  Peabody  left 
$ 150,000  to  Yale,  which  is  to  be  used  in  building  a fine  Museum  on 
Chapel  St.,  and  a Memorial  Chapel  is  also  in  projection. 

The  lower  part  of  the  Art  Building  is  occupied  by  studios,  &c.,  and 
the  second  floor  contains  some  valuable  pictures.  The  works  of  art  in  the 
first  room,  to  a large  extent,  belong  to  gentlemen  of  New  Haven,  and  are 
I often  withdrawn  and  new  ones  are  added. 

Among  those  on  exhibition  here  in  1872,  were  View  in  the  Catskills,  Gifford; 
Portrait  of  George  Peabody,  Huntington;  * Interior  of  Westminster  Abbey,  and 
j * Interior  of  St.  Mark’s,  V enice,  David  Neal ; large  copies  of  the  Madonna  di  Foligno, 

1 the  Transfiguration,  and  the  Last  Communion  of  St.  Jerome  ; * Autumnal  Scene, 
Gifford;  Ammonoosuc  Valley,  Weir;  Taking  the  Veil,  Weir;  and  a large  number 
of  portraits,  sketches,  &c.  by  Col.  Trumbull.  In  the  second  room  are  many  casts 
! from  antique  sculptures  ; 130,'  cast  of  Jupiter,  after  Phidias;  131,  Ilioneus,  after 
Praxiteles;  132,  Ruth,  Lombardi ; 133,  Jephthali,  Augur ; 135,  Edwin  Booth  ; 136, 
Col.  Trumbull,  Ball  Hughes ; 137-8,  busts  by  Powers ; 139,  statuette  of  Apollo  ; 

1 1,  head  of  Apollo  ; 2,  iEsculapius  ; 3,  the  River-God  of  the  Cephissus  ; 4,  Theseus, 
after  Phidias ; 5,  Victory,  after  Phidias ; 6,  Kanephora  ; 7-28,  Panathenaic  pro- 
. cession,  from  the  outer  frieze  of  the  cella  of  the  Parthenon  ; 29  - 33  Combat  of  the 
i Greeks  and  Amazons,  from  the  frieze  of  the  Mausoleum  at  Caria.  In  the  corridor 
are  works  of  the  same  class  : 1,  cast  from  Eleusis  ; 3,  4,  11,  Metopes  of  the 
i Tlieseum  ; 12,  13,  Combat  with  Centaurs.  In  the  third  room  is  the  famous 
i * Jarvis  collection  of  early  Italian  pictures  (fine  catalogue  and  “Manual  of  the 
4*  F 


82  j Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Study  of  early  Christian  Art,”  for  sale  by  the  janitor).  The  pictures  from  1 to  10 
are  Byzantine  Italian,  of  the  eleventh  and  twelfth  centuries  : 1,  an  altar-piece,  the 
Crucifixion,  Deposition,  and  Entombment ; 2,  the  Nativity  ; 3,  a triptych.  Ma- 
donna and  Child  and  Saints  ; 4,  19  small  pictures  from  the  history  of  Christ,  in  a 
triptych  ; 5,  * a large  altar-piece,  Christ  and  the  Madonna,  with  Angels  ; 6,  St. 
George  killing  the  Dragon  ; 7,  an  altar-piece  in  5 sections,  Christ  in  Hades,  &c  ; 
8,  The  Annunciation  ; 9,  Miraculous  Appearance  of  SS.  Mereurius  and  Catherine 
(13th  century)  ; 10,  Madonna  and  Child  ; 11,  Crucifixion,  Giunta  da  Pisa  ; 12,  altar- 
piece  in  7 sections,  Margaritone  da  Arezzo ; 13,  Madonna  and  Child,  Cimabue ; 
14,  Crucifixion,  and  Madonna  and  Child,  Duccio  da  Siena;  17,  * Entombment, 
Giotto;  18,  Crucifixion,  Giotto  ; 19,  Annunciation,  Cavaltni ; 20,  Vision  of  S.  Domi- 
nic, attributed  to  Taddeo  Gaddi;  21,  SS.  James,  Julian,  and  the  Archangel 
Michael ; 22,  the  Madonna  and  Child,  &c.  ; 23,  SS.  Augustine  and  Lucia,  Orcagna  ; 
24,  SS.  Dominic  and  Agnes,  Orcagna;  25,  S.  John  the  Baptist,  Orcagna;  26,  *S. 
Peter,  Orcagna;  27,  The  Trinity  and  Adoring  Saints,  Capana ; 28,  St.  Francis 
receiving  the  Stigmata,  Agnolo  Gaddi  ; 29,  The  Agony  in  the  Garden  ; 30,  Legend 
of  S.  Giovanni  Gualberto,  Casentino ; 31,  Madonna  and  Child,  &c.,  Giottino ; 32,  The 
Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  Giottino;  33,  Crucifixion,  Aretino ; 34,  Vision  of 
Constantine,  and  Fall  of  Satan,  Aretino  ; 35,  The  Assumption  of  the  Virgin  ; 36, 
SS.  Cosmo  and  Damian,  Bicci ; 37,  the  Deposition  from  the  Cross,  Veneziano  ; 38, 
The  * Triumph  of  Love  (on  wood),  Gentile  da  Fabriano  ; 39,  Madonna  and  Child, 
Gentile  da  Fabriano;  40,  SS.  Zenobio,  Francis  of  Assisi,  Anthony  of  Padua,  Fra 
Angelico  da  Fiesole ; 41,  The  Madonna  adoring  the  Infant  Saviour,  Panicale;  42, 
Infancy  of  S.  John  the  Baptist,  Masaccio;  43,  44,  Scenes  from  the  iEneid,  painted 
on  wood,  Uccelli  ; 45,  Tournament  at  Florence,  Dello  Delli  ; 46,  St.  Martin  and  the 
Beggar,  Dello  Delli ; 47,  St.  Jerome  in  Penance,  Castagno;  48,  The  Temptation  of 
S.  Anthony,  Sassetta;  49,  Adoration  Of  the  Magi,  and  50,  Coronation  of  the  Virgin, 
Sano  di  Pietro ; 51,  S.  Catherine  of  Siena  pleading  the  Cause  of  the  Florentines 
before  Gregory  VII.,  Giovanni  di  Paolo ; 52,  Martyrdom  of  a Bishop  ; 53,  St. 
Anthony  tormented  by  Demons ; 54,  Hermits  exorcising  Demons  ; 55,  Nativity, 
Squarcione;  56,  Crucifixion,  Mantegna;  57,  Madonna  and  Child,  Matteo  da  Siena; 
60,  Penitence  of  S.  Jerome,  Fra  Filippo  Lippi;  61,  Madonna,  Diamante;  63,  An- 
nunciation, Gozzoli;  *67,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  Luca  Signorelli;  68,  The  Princess 
Vitelli,  Francia;  70,  The  Baptism  of  Christ,  Perugino ; 73,  Portrait  of  a Lady, 
Ghirlandajo ; 74,  Madonna  and  Child,  Botticelli ; 75,  S.  Peter,  Giovanni  Bellini;  77, 
The  Circumcision  of  Christ,  and,  78,  Portraits  of  noble  Venetians,  Giorgione ; 
80,  St.  Sebastian,  and  81,  The  Dead  Christ,  Filippino  Lippi  ; 82,  Diana  and  Actseon, 
and  83,  the  Three  Archangels,  Piero  di  Cosimo  ; 84,  Crucifixion,  Lorenzo  di  Credi ; 
86,  The  Dead  Christ  held  by  the  Virgin,  Fra  Bartolomeo  ; 89,  The  Madonna  sup- 
porting the  Dead  Christ,  Raphael  (his  earliest  known  work)  ; 90,  Madonna,  Lo 
Spagno ; 92,  Madonna  and  Child,  Andrea  del  Sarto  (badly  injured) ; 94,  Christ 
bearing  the  Cross,  Sodoma;  95,  Madonna  and  Saints,  Sodoma;  97,  Madonna  and 
Saints,  Ghirlandajo ; 99,  Martyrdom  of  the  Theban  Legion,  and,  100,  Portrait  of 
Cosmo  dei  Medici,  Pontormo;  104,  Portrait  of  the  Princess  Vittoria  Colonna, 
Sebastiano  del  Piombo ; 106,  The  Death  of  Lucretia,  Vasari;  107,  Portrait  of 
Bianca  Capello,  Bordone;  109,  The  Crucifixion,  Paolo  Veronese;  110,  Christ  in 
Glory,  with  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  attributed  to  Veronese;  111,  Venal  Love,  Agostino 
Caracci  ; 112,  Joseph  and  the  Infant  Jesus,  Guido  Rent ; 113,  Venus,  Minerva,  and 
Juno  disarming  Cupid,  Guido  Reni;  114,  Artemisia,  Queen  of  Caria,  Domeni- 
chino;  115,  * Madonna  holding  the  Crown  of  Thorns,  unknown ; 116,  Spanish 
Noble,  Velasquez;  117,  Head  of  the  Dead  Christ,  Albert  Diirer ; 118,  Portrait  of  the 
Emperor  Charles  V.,  Holbein  ; 119,  The  Procession  to  Calvary,  Breughel. 


Environs  of  New  Haven. 

Besides  the  beaches  at  Branford  and  Guilford  (before  spoken  of ),  there 
is  a fine  drive  down  the  E.  side  of  the  harbor,  by  the  old  Forts,  Hale  and 
Wooster.  The  Grove  (steamer  from  New  Haven  4 times  daily)  and  the 
Cove  Houses  are  near  the  lighthouse,  5 M.  from  the  city,  the  latter 
($  10 -$15.00  a week)  being  on  along,  smooth,  curving  beach  of  white 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8.  83 


sand.  (The  suburb  of  Fairhaven,  on  this  side,  is  famous  for  its  large  and 
delicious  oysters.)  Fort  Wooster,  1J  M.  from  the  city,  was  built  in 
1814,  and  is  now  in  ruins  ; a noble  view  is  gained  from  the  hill  on  which 
it  stands.  About  200  yards  N.  of  this  Fort  was  the  cemetery  of  the 
Quinnipiac  Indians.  1J-2  M.  from  this  point  is  Fort  Hale,  which  was 
greatly  strengthened  during  the  war  of  1861  - 65,  but  is  now  dismantled. 

The  East  and  West  Rocks  are  bold  and  lofty  masses  of  trap-rock,  on 
the  plain  near  the  city,  which  geologists  think  were  driven  up  through 
other  strata  by  some  great  throe  of  the  central  forces.  They  form  the 
southern  limit  of  the  great  system  of  mountains  which  extends  from 
Hereford,  in  Canada,  forming  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  River,  which 
many  believe  once  flowed  between  these  cliffs  to  the  Sound.  East  Rock 
(carriage-road  to  the  top,  horse-cars  to  the  base  from  the  Green)  is 
1J-2  M.  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  by  way  of  State  St.  A small  stone 
hotel  is  on  its  summit.  An  extensive  * view  is  afforded  hence,  embracing 
the  broad  valleys  and  bright  waters  of  Mill  and  Quinnipiac  Rivers,  the  rural 
districts  of  North  Haven  and  Hamden,  the  high  hills  toward  Mount  Car- 
mel, the  frowning  cliffs  of  West  Rock,  the  city  of  New  Haven,  its  har- 
bor, and  a long  sweep  of  Long  Island  Sound. 

*West  Rock  (horse-cars  from  Chapel  St.)  is  2-2J  M.  N.  W.  of  the 
Green,  and  rises  sharply  from  the  plain  to  an  elevation  of  nearly  400  ft. 
The  ascent  (difficult  for  ladies)  is  over  a rugged  and  rocky  path  beyond 
the  quarries.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  nearly  the  same  as  that  from 
the  East  Rock,  except  that  a great  portion  of  the  Quinnipiac  valley  is 
hidden,  the  northern  mountains  are  differently  grouped,  and  the  western 
towns  are  unfolded  to  the  view.  A hard  walk  of  15  - 20  min.  to  the  N. 
over  the  rugged  plateau  leads  to  the  Judge's  Cave,  a small  cleft  in  a 
group  of  boulders,  where  the  regicides  Goffe  and  Whalley  were  hidden 
for  some  time  in  1661.  A citizen  who  lived  about  1 M.  off  brought  them 
food,  until  one  night  a catamount  looked  in  on  them  and  “blazed  his  eyes 
in  such  a frightful  manner  as  greatly  to  terrify  them.”  Wintergreen 
Fall  is  near  the  upper  base  of  the  rock,  and  above  it  is  a dam  of  rock 
and  earth  3,500  ft.  long,  which  forms  a lake  of  75  acres  for  the  water  sup- 
ply of  the  city.  Near  West  Rock  is  Maltby  Park , covering  800  acres, 
with  3 M.  of  driveways,  and  the  city  water- works.  At  the  foot  of  the 
rock  is  Westville,  near  which  is  “Edgewood,”  the  rural  home  of  Donald 
G.  Mitchell  (Ik  Marvel),  the  author  of  “Dream  Life,”  “Reveries  of  a 
Bachelor,”  and  other  charming  books. 

Savin  Rock,  4 M.  S.  W.  of  New  Haven  (horse-cars  from  the  Green 
half-hourly)  is  the  favorite  resort  of  the  citizens.  The  road  passes 
through  West  Haven,  a quiet  old  village,  with  a tall  church  on  an  elm- 
shaded  green.  Savin  Rock  is  a bluff  promontory  pushing  a rocky  front 
against  the  waves,  and  stands  at  the  end  of  a long,  sandy  beach  which  has 


84  Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


a very  light  surf.  A pretty  view  of  the  Sound  is  gained  from  the  top  of 
the  bluff,  near  which  once  stood  a fine  hotel,  which  was  recently  burned 
down.  The  Sea-View  House  can  now  accommodate  75-100  guests. 

Several  busy  manufacturing  villages  are  in  the  vicinity  of  New  Haven. 
Newhallville,  where  the  Winchester  rifles  are  made ; Centreville,  the 
home  of  large  car,  carriage,  and  saw  factories  ; Whitney ville  ; Westville, 
where  360,000  gross  of  match-splints  and  $50,000  worth  of  berry-baskets 
are  made  yearly,  &c. 

On  leaving  the  dark  and  crowded,  but  centrally  located,  station  at  New 
Haven,  the  Shore  Line  train  passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  New  York  and 
New  Haven  R.  R.,  on  which  the  cars  of  the  Springfield  route  run,  and 
which  will  also  be  used  by  the  Air  Line  route.  The  first  station  is  West 
Haven , 1 M.  from  Savin  Rock.  Next  comes  Milford , (Milford  Hotel, 
$ 2. 00),  a pretty  village,  with  wide  streets  lined  with  arching  elms,  and 
with  an  enclosed  green  \ M.  long. 

The  aborigines  of  Wapowage  having  been  crowded  off,  this  district  was  settled 
and  named,  in  1639,  by  a company  from  Milford,  in  England.  The  occupation 
seems  to  have  been  in  accordance  with  a series  of  resolutions  at  an  early  meeting 
of  the  Milford  church.  “Voted,  That  the  earth  is  the  Lord’s,  and  the  fulness 
thereof.  Voted,  That  the  earth  is  given  to  the  saints.  Voted,  That  we  are  the 
saints.”  The  settlement  being  menaced  in  the  Indo-Dutcli  War  of  1643-6,  it 
was  surrounded  by  a wall  and  palisade  1 M.  around  ; and  the  dreaded  Mohawks 
having  been  repulsed  by  Connecticut  Indians  near  Milford,  the  saints  possessed 
the  earth  in  peace.  On  New  Year’s  .Day,  1777,  200  American  soldiers,  captives 
from  the  prison-ships  at  New  York,  were  cast  ashore  here  from  British  cartel- 
ships,  and  despite  the  truly  saintly  ministrations  of  the  Milfordites,  46  of  them 
died  in  one  month.  They  were  buried  in  the  old  cemetery  (near  the  station),  and 
a monument  30  it.  high  raised  over  them,  which  states  the  facts,  and  the  names 
of  the  victims,  and  asks,  “ Who  shall  say  that  Republics  are  ungrateful?” 

St.  Peter’s  (Episcopal)  Church  is  a venerable  and  ivy-clad  stone  edifice 
on  the  green  and  terraced  banks  of  the  tranquil  Posquag.  Two  large 
white  churches  (of  wood)  stand  on  the  hill  beyond.  A large  amount  of 
straw-goods  is  made  in  the  village.  Charles  Island  (small  hotel)  is  in 
the  Sound  near  Milford,  and  is  much  visited  in  summer. 

Soon  after  leaving  Milford,  the  line  crosses  the  broad  Housatonic  River, 
and  stops  at  Stratford , a quiet  village  with  neither  hotel  nor  factory,  and 
rich  in  two  or  three  elm-lined,  tranquil  streets,  where  one  can  stroll  on 
dreamy  autumn  afternoons  and  feel  as  if  in  a second  era  of  the  Truce  of 
God.  Such  streets  are  found  only  in  these  old  towns  on  Long  Island 
Sound.  Stratford  was  settled  by  Massachusetts  men,  in  1639,  and  its 
pastor  was  Adam  Blackman,  whom  Cotton  Mather  (who  is  fond  of  play- 
ing upon  words)  calls  “ a Nazarite  purer  than  snow,  and  whiter  than 
milk.”  The  society  which  he  organized  now  meets  in  a new  Swiss  Gothic 
church  near  the  station.  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson,  first  President  of  King’s 
(Columbia)  College,  and  “ Father  of  Episcopalianism  in  Connecticut,”  is 
buried  near  the  venerable  Christ  Church  (founded  1723). 

The  next  station  is  Bridgeport. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8 . 85 


(*  Sterling  House,  Main  St.  ; Atlantic  House,  opposite  station,  each  $3.00  a 
day;  City  Hotel,  &c.)  Carriages,  50c.  a course  within  the  city  for  each  person, 
or  $1.00  for  3 persons.  Post  Office  on  State,  near  Main  St.  Opera  House  on  State, 
near  Main.  Library,  corner  Main  and  Beaver,  with  9,000  volumes ; magazines 
and  papers  in  the  reading-room. 

This  district  was  owned  by  the  Paugusset  Indians,  and  was  occupied  soon  after 
Mason’s  victory  in  1637,  when  he  pursued  the  Pequots  in  this  direction.  The  in- 
nocent Paugussets  (with  their  hundred  wigwams)  were  soon  crowded  on  to  a res- 
ervation of  80  acres  at  Golden  Hill  (so  named  from  its  glittering  mica),  and  the 
poor  half-dozen  who  remained  in  1765  sold  out  and  left.  From  the  contiguous 
towns  of  Stratford  and  Fairfield  a new  parish  was  formed,  called  Stratfield,  and  from 
this  Bridgeport  was  afterwards  organized.  Charles  Chauncey,  the  famous  Puritan 
Father,  was  pastor  here  for  20  years,  and  while  he  looked  after  the  adults  the 
church  “ Voted  that  Nathaniel  Wackle  should  be  the  man  to  look  after  ye  boyes  a 
Sabbath  dayes  in  time  of  exercise  that  they  play  not.”  In  1715,  Pastor  Cooke  of 
New  Haven  accepted  a call  here  on  a salary  of  “200 1.  a year,  or  provisions  at  the 
following  rates,  viz  : Indian  at  2s.,  ry  at  2s.  8 d.,  wheat  at  4s.  per  bush.,  porck  at 
20  s.  per  cwt.,  and  firewood  for  the  yous  of  the  family.”  People  were  seated  in 
the  church  “by  dignity,  Adge,  and  a state.”  In  1707,  an  Episcopalian  mission- 
ary was  sent  here  from  England,  who,  by  1748,  had  organized  a church  (the  pres- 
ent St.  John’s  Society).  In  1771,  during  Sunday  morning  service  at  the  Congre- 
gational Church,  a storm  arose,  the  darkness  was  broken  by  a broad  sheet  of 
lightning,  accompanied  by  a terrific  crash,  and  when  it  had  passed  the  two  chief 
men  were  found  dead  in  their  pews,  and  many  in  the  congregation  were  stunned, 
bruised,  and  wounded.  In  1836,  Bridgeport  was  incorporated  as  a city,  and  since 
then  has  grown  larger  and  richer  yearly. 

The  principal  manufactories  of  the  city  are  the  great  Sewing-Machine 
works  of  Wheeler  and  Wilson  (employing  800  hands),  and  of  Elias  Howe, 
Jr.  (the  latter  made  30,000  machines  in  1869),  the  Pacific  and  the  New 
Haven  Arms  Co.,  the  Union  Metallic  Cartridge  Co.,  the  American  and 
the  Simpson  Water-Proof  Co.,  the  Bridgeport  Brass  Co.,  &c.,  &c. 
Immense  quantities  of  steel-pointed  cannon-shot  were  made  here  in 
1861-5. 

Mountain  Grove  Cemetery  is  gained  by  Fairfield  Ave.  (horse-cars), 
and  is  in  a picturesque  situation.  The  Harral  family  has  a fine  Gothic 
monument  on  one  of  the  hills.  Iranistan,  Barnum’s  large  mansion,  stood 
on  Fairfield  Ave.  St.  Augustine’s  Church  (Catholic)  is  a large  granite 
edifice  on  Golden  Hill,  opposite  which  is  the  Cluny-like  Wheeler  mansion 
in  its  extensive  grounds.  Beyond  this  the  aristocratic  streets  of  Golden 
Hill  extend.  North  Ave.  was  the  centre  of  the  ancient  settlement,  of 
which  some  gray  houses  remain.  It  was  then  called  the  King’s  Highway. 
Broad  St.,  parallel  to  Main,  has  a line  of  neat  churches.  Washington 
Park  is  a plain,  grassy  lawn  in  E.  Bridgeport,  on  which  is  the  pretty 
Church  of  St.  Paul,  and  beyond  it  is  Pembroke  Lake.  On  the  S.  of  the 
city  (horse-cars  on  Main  St.)  is  * Sea-Side  Park,  a fine  resort  looking  out 
on  the  harbor  and  the  Sound.  The  beach  is  backed  by  a long  sea-wall, 
beyond  which  is  a broad  esplanade,  with  carriage-road  and  foot-path,  in 
full  view  of  the  water,  and  of  Long  Island.  Beyond  the  Park  is  Black 
Rock  Village,  where  was  born  Capt.  Chauncey,  of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  a dis- 
tinguished officer  of  the  War  of  1812.  During  much  of  the  Revolution- 
ary era,  the  4th  Conn,  encamped  at  the  Park.  The  stately  mansion 


86  Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


which  overlooks  the  Park  was  built  by  P.  T.  Barnum,  the  great  show- 
man. 

Barnum  was  born  in  Conn..  1810,  and  began  his  great  career  as  shoAvman  in 
1835  (with  Joice  Heth).  In  1849,.  he  paid  Jenny  Lind  $150,000  for  singing  150 
nights  in  America.  In  1865,  his  great  museum  at  New  York  was  destroyed. 
Charles  S.  Stratton,  or  Gen.  Tom  Thumb,  was  born  at  Bridgeport  in  1832.  His 
size  and  growth  were  as  usual  until  his  seventh  month,  when  he  ceased  to  grow. 
In  1844  Barnum  took  him  to  Europe  ; and  since  that  time  his  travels  have  been 
incessant  and  his  revenues  large.  In  1863  he  married  Miss  Lavinia  Warren,  of 
Middleboro’,  Mass.,  a young  lady  of  about  the  same  stature  as  himself,  — to  wit, 
28  inches. 

Steamers  leave  Bridgeport  for  New  York  twice  daily,  also  for  Port  Jefferson, 
L.  I.,  twice  daily  (fare  $1.00).  Stages  for  Black  Rock,  Easton,  &c. 

Railroads.  The  Naugatuck  R.  R.,  from  Bridgeport  to  Winsted  (62  M.),  runs 
N.  in  the  valleys  of  the  Housatonic  and  Naugatuck  Rivers.  (Route  16.)  The  Hous- 
atonic  R.  R.  runs  from  Bridgeport  to  Pittsfield,  Mass.,  110  M.  (Route  17.) 

The  next  station  is  Fairfield  (Fairfield  House,  or  Marine  Pavilion, 
$10 -$12.00  a week;  open  in  summer  only).  Fairfield  is  an  ancient 
village,  with  a beautiful  street  lined  with  villas  and  careful  landscape 
gardening.  On  the  Green  are  the  Episcopal  and  Congregational  Churches, 
and  the  Court  House,  “ Built  A.  D.  1720,  destroyed  by  the  British 
A.  D.  1779,  rebuilt  A.  D.  1794,  remodelled  1870.” 

July  7,  1779,  Tryon  with  his  Hessian  Yagers,  returning  from  the  pillage  of  New 
Haven,  landed  here,  sacked  the  village,  and  burned  200  houses.  The  scene  in- 
spired Col.  Humphrey’s  Elegy  beginning,  — 

“ Ye  smoking  ruins,  marks  of  hostile  ire, 

Ye  ashes  warm  which  drink  the  tears  that  flow, 

Ye  desolated  plains,  my  voice  inspire, 

And  give  soft  music  to  my  song  of  woe. 

How  pleasant,  Fairfield,  on  th’  enraptured  sight. 

Rose  thy  tall  spires,  and  ope’d  thy  social  halls.” 

Another  poet  of  that  day  was  more  pointed  in  his  remarks  : — 

“ Tryon  achieved  the  deeds  malign,  And  smiled  to  see  destruction  spread  ; 

Tryon,  the  name  for  every  sin.  While  Satan,  blushing  deep,  looked  onf 

Hell’s  blackest  fiends  the  flame  surveyed  And  Infamy  disowned  her  son.” 

10  min.  walk  S.  of  the  Green  leads  to  the  beach,  the  best  on  the  Sound, 
protected  by  a bar  from  S.  winds,  with  a gradually-sloping,  sandy  shore, 
and  no  surf.  To  the  S.  is  the  lighthouse  on  Penfield  Reef,  and  Black 
Rock  light  is  to  the  E.,  in  which  direction  is  a high,  grassy  bluff  on  which 
it  is  contemplated  to  build  a mammoth  hotel.  15  min.  walk  N.  of  the 
Green  is  Round  Hill,  commanding  a wide  view  of  Bridgeport  and  the 
Sound.  Some  miles  N.  are  Samp  Mortar  Rock  (a  precipice  70  ft.  high, 
on  whose  top  is  a deep  hole  where  the  Indians  pounded  corn),  and  Green- 
field Hill,  where  President  Dwight  was  once  settled,  and  where  he  wrote 
the  poem  (popular  70  years  ago)  of  “ Greenfield  Hill.”  From  this  point 
a fine  view  is  gained,  embracing,  according  to  the  poet, 

“ Norwalk’s  white  ascending  spires,  sk3T-encircled  Easton’s  churches, 

Stratford  s turrets,  Fairfield  giving  lustre  to  the  day. 

Prince  of  the  waves,  and  ocean's  favorite  child, 

There  Longa’s  Sound  all  gloriously  expands.” 

Southport  station  and  village  is  2 M.  from  Fairfield.  N.  of  the  railroad 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Pi,oute  8.  87 


and  near  the  station  is  a cultivated  field,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the 
Sasco  Swamp,  where,  in  1637,  the  Unquowa  (Fairfield)  Indians  anda  strong 
band  of  Pequots  took  refuge.  Mason,  with  troops  of  Mass,  and  Conn, 
surrounded  the  swamp,  and  after  a parley  the  Unquowas  were  allowed 
to  come  out  (being  blameless).  The  Pequots  refused  all  terms,  and,  after 
an  obstinate  attack,  70  of  them  broke  the  English  line  and  escaped.  180 
were  made  prisoners  and  sold  to  the  West  Indies  as  slaves.  Soon  after 
these  “fair  fields”  were  occupied  by  a company  from  Concord,  Mass. 
The  next  station  is  Westport.  The  village  is  1J-2  M.  N.  of  the  rail- 
road, on  the  widenings  of  the  Saugatuck,  and  is  a lively  little  place. 
The  Memorial  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  is  a fine  Gothic  * edifice  of 
sandstone,  alongside  of  which,  and  in  strong  contrast,  is  a heavy  Egyptian 
tomb. 

Station,  S.  Norwalk  (Lucas  Hotel,  Allin  House),  near  which  is  the 
village  of  Norwalk  (horse-cars  to  station).  The  legend  says  that  this 
land,  in  the  purchase  (1640)  from  the  Indians,  was  to  extend  one  day’s 
“north  walk  ” from  the  Sound.  In  1653,  the  town  was  incorporated, 
having  then  20  families.  July  11,  1779,  Tryon’s  Hessians  plundered  and 
burnt  the  village,  meeting  with  such  resistance  from  50  Continental 
soldiers  and  the  militia  that  they  lost  148  men.  S.  Norwalk  is  now  an 
incorporated  city,  and  Norwalk  (Conn.  Hotel)  is  a pretty  village  on  the 
heights.  Midway  between  them  is  the  palace  of  Le  Grand  Lockwood 
(costing  about  $ 1,000,000).  The  fine  picture-gallery  was  moved  to  New 
York  soon  after  Mr.  Lockwood’s  death,  in  1872.  The  Norwalk  Lock  Co. 
makes  900,000  locks  yearly,  in  300  forms;  the  Union  Knob  Works  turn 
out  1,500,000  knobs  (of  New  Jersey  clay)  yearly.  Hats  and  shoes  are 
largely  manufactured  here.  The  oyster  business  is  extensively  engaged 
in  by  Norwalk  men.  At  the  draw-bridge,  near  Norwalk  (on  the  E. ),  a 
frightful  accident  once  took  place,  when  an  express  train  dashed  into  the 
open  draw  and  was  precipitated  into  the  channel. 

Stations,  Darien  (village  \ M.  S.  of  the  station),  Noroton.  Noroton  is 
1-1J  M.  from  Darien,  and  is  the  seat  of  Fitch’s  Home  for  Soldiers,  a 
beneficent  institution  founded  by  Benjamin  Fitch,  Esq.,  a wealthy  gentle- 
man of  Darien.  Many  of  the  children  of  the  fallen  soldiers  are  educated 
and  cared  for  here,  and  prepared  for  lives  of  industry  and  honor. 

A fine  gallery  of  paintings  (mostly  modern  French)  is  attached  to  the  Home, 
and  is  open  to  visitors. 

1,  Portrait  of  Benjamin  Fitch;  2,  The  Wandering  Jew,  Della  Monica;  3,  The 
Charitable  Priest,  Murillo  (?) ; 4,  Arabs,  Adolphe  Aze ; 5,  Gaming,  Cassana ; 6, 
Young  Christ;  10,  Fruit,  Matthieu ; 11,  * Greek  Girls  invoking  Eros,  Mansfeld- 
Beaumont;  12,  The  Old  Lover,  Zamacois;  13,  Scene  on  the  Campagna,  Fay ; 
20,  The  Coming  Storm,  Verheyden ; 22,  Europa  and  the  Bull,  Cortone  ; 23,  Am- 
sterdam, Hoftauer ; 24,  The  Judgment  of  Solomon,  Zurbaran  ; 25,  Scene  at  a 
Mosque,  Adolphe  Aze  ; 27,  Holy  Family,  School  of  Murillo  ; 28,  Lamplight  Study, 
Rosierze ; 29,  Arches  near  Marseilles,  Loubon  ; 32,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  Franck, ; 
47,  * Algerian  Princess  at  the  Bath , Adolphe  Aze;  36,  Marine,  Hofbauer ; 38, 
Landscape,  Van  Huy  sum ; 40,  Genre , Van  Ostade;  42,  * Tambourine  Girl,  Ro- 


88  Route  8. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


driguez ; 44,  46,  Swiss  Scenes,  Hauzer ; 48,  Mother  and  Child,  Coseman ; 50,  The 
Foot-Bridge,  Billou ; 52,  The  Madonna  adoring  the  Infant  Christ,  Gccrofalo  ; 53, 
Assumption,  Prudhon  ; 54,  The  Marriage,  Greuze  ; 55,  Roman  Flower-Girl,  Oudet ; 
56,  Portrait  by  Ribeira  (?)  ; 57,  The  Return  of  Columbus,  Beveria ; 58,  Knife- 
Grinder,  Teniers  (?) ; 59,  Holy  Family,  Rubens  (very  doubtful)  : 60,  Game-Piece, 
A.  Aze;  61,  Wounded  on  the  Battle-Field,  H.  Vernet;  62,  Jonah  and  the  Whale, 
Eckhout ; 65-9,  Genre  pictures,  by  Schopin ; 66,  Aurora,  after  Guido;  67,  Al- 
pine Landscape,  Hofbauer ; 71,  Roman  Girl,  Riedel ; 72,  The  Toilet,  Belechaux ; 
77,  Lady  pouring  Tea,  Senecourt ; 78,  Cavalier,  Patrois ; 83,  Last  Supper,  Tinto- 
retto (?) ; 84,  Milking,  Berghem ; 86,  Fruit-Girl,  Tourny ; 88,  Alpine  Landscape, 
Hofbauer ; 89,  Lady  at  Window,  Costi ; 91,  Fruit,  Be  Heem ; 93,  100,  Dogs, 
Blanchard;  94,  Sheep,  Verboeckhoven ; 95,  Alchemist,  Pichot ; 97,  Soldier,  Cou- 
ture; 98,  Female  Head,  Aita  ; 99,  Farm-Yard  Scene,  A.  Aze;  102,  Dead  Deer, 
Gerard ; 105,  Bashful  Suitor,  Tolmouclie ; 106,  The  First  Snow  ; 109,  Elijah  fed 
by  the  Ravens,  Boucher ; 111,  Holy  Family,  with  SS.  John  and  Catharine;  112, 
Cattle,  Hofmayer ; 113,  Raphael  and  La  Fornarina,  Baron  ; 115,  Massacre  of  the 
Innocents,  Guido  Reni  ; 116,  Maiden  reading,  Grossot ; 117,  The  Throne  of  France 
in  1793,  Gabe ; 121,  * Cincinnatus  and  the  Roman  Senators,  Zink ; 123,  Sheep 
and  Country  Lane,  Menard ; 124,  128,  Genre  pieces,  Bourgoin ; 129,  Musicians, 
Sevre ; 132,  Spanish  Scene,  Rodriguez  ; 133,  * Sheep,  Verboeckhoven  (of  wonderful 
finish)  ; 135,  Portrait,  Parmegiano  ; 136,  * Attack  on  Castle  (of  Cologne?),  Rolmer ; 
138,  Blowing  Soap-Bubbles,  Chaplin ; 139,  Roman  Girls,  Roehm  ; 141,  Head,  Wa- 
grez;  161,  Holy  Family  and  Saints,  Bonifacio;  144,  Landscape,  Poelemburg ; 
154,  Girl  and  Parrot;  155,  Tourists  in  the  Alps,  Girardet ; 158,  Dog’s  Head, 
Gerome ; 153,  Blind  Man  and  his  Dog,  Moidignon ; 151,  * Eastern  Princess,  Le- 
comte ; 149,  * Female  Plead,  Piot ; 162,  Fruit  and  Game  ; 177,  Battle  Scene  ; 174, 
The  Dead  Christ  (Pieta),  Titian  (?)  ; 175,  Diana,  Raphael  Mengs ; 171,  Portrait  of 
Raphael;  173,  Lady’s  Portrait,  Tocque ; 169,  Marine  View,  Waldorp ; 167,  Tame 
Bear  and  Villagers,  Rocliu  ; 168,  St.  Mark’s  and  the  Ducal  Palace  (Venice)  ; 166*, 
191,  Soldiers,  Wouvermans  ; 188,  Cattle,  Brascassat ; 189,  190,  Scenes  from  Abra- 
ham’s Life  ; 205,  Martha  Washington ; 184,  Roman  Girl,  Nanteuil ; 182,  Re- 
ligious Scene,  Bassano  (?)  ; 17,  Samson  and  Delilah  ; 183,  Judith  and  Holofernes  ; 
181,  Naval  Battle  by  Night,  Fowles ; 180,  Moses  and  the  Hebrew  Host  at  Sinai, 
Barbarelli  ; 179,  Diana  after  the  Chase,  Breughel.  Lower  Room.  198-9,  Swiss 
Views;  197,  Rebecca  and  Eleazar,  Cartagliano ; 221,  Bearing  off  the  Wounded, 
LeBieux;  225,  * Queen  Elizabeth,  VanDyk;  201,  Achilles  spinning , Biepenbeck  ; 
203,  Naples;  204,  Peace  and  Plenty,  Gardner;  209,  Landscape,  Allegrain;  210, 
Domestic  Scene,  Cano.  The  picture  numbered  150  (in  the  upper  hall)  is  by  Bou- 
guereau,  and  was  long  known  as  “the  gem  of  Paris.”  Some  call  this  the  best 
picture  in  the  gallery,  while  others  prefer  Verboeckhoven' s Sheep  (133),  a small 
work,  yet  of  microscopic  finish.  The  works  of  Adolphe  Aze  are  said  to  be  “ ex- 
empt from  criticism,”  as  he  has  gained  every  medal  and  honor  where  his  paintings 
have  appeared.  In  the  lower  room  is  a choice  and  well-used  library,  including 
800  volumes  of  Bohn’s  works  presented  by  English  friends.  This  room  also  con- 
tains several  large  pictures.  In  the  room  on  the  r.  is  a fine  piece  of  statuary 
emblematic  of‘  the  purpose  of  the  institution.  The  view  from  the  observatory 
above  the  building  is  very  pretty. 


3 M.  beyond  Noroton,  the  train  stops  at  Stamford,  (Stamford 
House , Union  House),  which  was  founded  in  1641,  and  thereafter 
sometimes  harried  by  the  Dutch  from  New  York.  In  1838  it  was  a dull 
hamlet  of  700  inhabitants  ; but  soon  after  the  Empire  City  looked  with 
favor  upon  it,  and  during  the  last  25  years  its  hills  have  been  occupied  by 
the  villas  and  parks  of  New  York  gentlemen.  Hence  fine  churches  have 
been  built,  broad  avenues  are  laid  out,  and  a cluster  of  admirable  schools 
has  arisen.  St.  Andrew’s  (Epis.)  Church  is  a little  gem  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, guarding  a wide  sweep  of  graves.  The  Univ.  Church,  near  by,  is 
a handsome  stone  building,  while  the  Catholics  are  raising  a large  church. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  8.  89 


on  the  road  from  the  station.  A fine  new  Town  Hall,  of  brick  and  Ohio 
stone,  150  ft.  front  and  with  a tower  100  ft.  high,  rises  in  the  centre  of 
the  village  (J  M.  from  the  station).  Near  it  is  a small,  triangular  park 
with  a fountain.  A pleasant  drive  is  that  on  the  New  Haven  road,  passing 
many  fine  villas,  among  which  is  Quintard’s  stone  chateau.  1000  - 1500 
New-Yorkers  come  here  during  the  summer,  many  of  whom  stop  at  Ship - 
pan  Point  (1J-2  M.  from  the  station),  where  is  the  large  Ocean  House, 
from  whose  beach  a pretty  still-water  view  is  aflorded.  Pound  Rock  is  a 
ledge  running  into  the  Sound  not  far  from  the  Point. 

Col.  Abraham  Davenport,  “a  man  of  stern  integrity  and  generous  benevo- 
lence,” was  bom  at  Stamford  in  1715,  and  was  for  25  years  in  the  State  legisla- 
ture. On  the  memorable  Dark  Day,  May  19th,  1780,  great  fear  fell  on  the  legisla- 
ture, then  in  session  ; and  in  anticipation  of  the  approach  of  the  Day  of  universal 
Judgment,  an  adjournment  was  moved.  The  brave  old  man  arose,  and  thus  spoke, 
calming  the  fears  of  the  legislators,  and  continuing  the  session  : “lam  against 
an  adjournment.  The  Day  of  Judgment  is  either  approaching,  or  it  is  not.  If  it 
is  not,  there  is  no  cause  for  an  adjournment.  If  it  is,  I choose  to  be  found  doing 
my  duty.  I wish,  therefore,  that  candles  may  be  brought.”  This  scene  has  been 
made  the  theme  of  a fine  poem  by  Whittier.  Col.  Davenport’s  sons,  James  and 
John,  were  officers  in  the  Revolution,  and  afterwards  members  of  Congress 
(1796-9  ; 1799-1817). 

Steamers  leave  Stamford  for  New  York  daily.  A Railroad  runs  from  this  point 
to  New  Canaan,  a quiet  country  town  8 M.  to  the  N. 

Stations,  Cos  Cob  (village  tN.  of  tlie  railroad,  on  the  Miantus  River), 
and  Greenwich  (City  Hotel,  open  in  summer).  Greenwich  was  settled  in 
1640,  and  in  1650  was  appointed  by  the  Anglo-Dutch  frontier  commission 
in  session  at  Hartford  as  the  W.  limit  of  Conn.  Somewhere  in  this  early 
age,  a desperate  battle  lasting  all  day  was  fought  on  Strickland’s  Plain, 
between  the  Dutch  and  Indians.  The  village  stands  on  rolling  hills, 
\ M.  N.  of  the  station.  15  min.  walk  to  the  E.  is  a stately  Cong. 
Church,  built  of  gray  rubble,  with  deep  transepts,  a wide  and  picturesque- 
ly irregular  front,  a high  pointed  roof,  and  a fine  stone  spire  in  open- 
work. This  fine  edifice  is  on  a high  hill,  and  may  be  seen  for  leagues 
along  the  Sound,  resembling  some  pilgrimage  church  on  the  Sei$e 
or  Danube.  Near  this  is  the  exquisite  Christ  Church  (Epis. ) in  a shel- 
tered grove  on  the  ridge,  built  of  gray  stone  trimmed  with  Caen  stone. 
It  has  a handsome  stone  spire,  and  its  interior  is  said  to  be  very  ele- 
gant. 

A few  rods  beyond  (to  the  E.),  on  the  r.  of  the  road,  is  an  old  cemetery,  where 
stood  the  church  in  1779,  near  which  Gen.  Putnam,  with  60  militia-men,  fought 
an  advancing  force  of  dragoons  until  the  last  moment  possible.  Then,  since  to 
go  down  by  the  curving  road  (the  present  road  is  modern  and  more  direct)  would 
expose  him  to  a close  fire  from  many  of  the  enemy,  he  galloped  his  horse  down 
the  steps  built  in  the  steep  hillside  for  the  church-goers.  The  British  cavalry 
sent  a volley  after  him  (one  shot  piercing  his  hat),  but  dared  not  follow,  although 
two  or  three  dragoons  of  Lafayette’s  escort  to  the  place  (in  1824)  performed  the 
feat  safely.  Putnam  lost  2 cannon  here,  but  his  men  mostly  escaped  to  the  adja- 
cent swamps,  and  the  next  day  Old  Put  attacked  Tryon’s  rear-guard  with  a force 
from  Stamford,  and  captured  38  men. 

S.  E.  of  the  Greenwich  station  is  Indian  Harbor , on  a point  near  which 


90  Route  9. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  BEDFORD. 


are  the  great  buildings  and  parks  prepared  by  the  wealthy  Americus  Club, 
of  New  York. 

Soon  after  leaving  Greenwich,  the  train  crosses  the  Byram  River,  and 
leaves  Yankee-land,  which  is  said  to  stretch  “from  Quoddy  Head”  (in 
Maine)  “to  Byram  River.”  Stations,  Port  Chester , in  Westchester 
County,  New  York  (De  Soto  House),  a busy  village  with  5 churches,  Rye 
(with  a fine  beach  2 M.  S.  E.  of  the  station),  Mamaroneck , “the  place 
of  rolling  stones,”  where  Smallwood’s  Maryland  battalion  defeated 
Rogers’s  Tory  Rangers  in  1776,  and  New  Rochelle.  This  village  was  set  - 
tled by  Huguenot  refugees  in  1691,  after  the  fall  of  La  Rochelle,  and  the 
French  language  was  long  used  here.  The  State  of  New  York  granted  a 
tract  of  land  here  to  Thomas  Paine. 

Thomas  Paine,  was  born  in  England,  1737,  and  came  to  America  in  1774.  Early  in 
1776  he  published  a tract,  “Common-Sense,”  advocating  republican  indepen- 
dence, and  in  Dec.  “ The  Crisis  ” was  published,  beginning  with  the  words,  “ These 
are  the  times  that  try  men’s  souls.”  This  was  read  at  the  head  of  every  Conti- 
nental regiment,  and  aroused  the  drooping  spirits  of  the  army  and  people.  Af- 
ter filling  several  offices  in  the  U.  S.,  he  went  to  France  in  1791,  and  was  elected 
to  the  National  Convention.  After  a stormy  life  in  Europe,  during  which  he 
attacked  Burke  in  the  “Rights  of  Man,”  and  advocated  atheism  in  the  “Age  of 
Reason”  (1795),  he  came  to  New  Rochelle  in  1802,  and  settled  on  an  estate  given 
him  by  New  York,  where  he  died  in  1809.  In  1819  Wm.  Cobbett  removed  his  re- 
mains to  England,  and  in  1889  the  State  erected  a monument  to  Paine  on  his  old 
farm. 

After  New  Rochelle , the  train  passes  Pelhamville,  and  at  Mount  Ver- 
non turns  to  the  S.  W.,  and  runs  on  the  rails  of  the  Harlem  R.  R., 
through  several  suburban  villages  without  stopping,  then  crosses  the 
Harlem  River,  and  stops  at  the  station,  42d  Street,  corner  of  4th 
Avenue. 

New  York,  see  Route  51. 

9.  Boston  to  New  Bedford. 

%Via  Boston  and  Providence  R.  R.,  &c.,  in  2 hours. 

Boston  to  Mansfield,  see  Route  8.  Stations,  Norton  (Mansion  House), 
Crane’s,  Attleborough  Junction  (where  a branch  line  diverges  to  Attle- 
borough), Whittenton,  Taunton  (see  Route  3.)  At  Weir  Junction , the 
line  connects  with  the  Old  Colony  R.  R.  (western  division),  at  Middle- 
boro''  Junction  with  the  Middleboro’  and  Taunton  R.  R.,  and  at  Myrick's 
with  the  Old  Colony  R.  R.  (eastern  division).  The  track  now  crosses  the 
towns  of  Freetown  and  New  Bedford,  and  stops  at  the  latter  city. 

New  Bedford  (Parker  House,  Mansion  House),  the  Acushnet  of  the 
Indians,  was  settled  in  1764,  by  Quakers,  on  lands  owned  by  one  Russell. 
This  being  the  family  name  of  the  Dukes  of  Bedford,  the  settlement  was 
named  in  compliment  to. them.  In  the  Revolution  the  place  became  a 
perfect  nest  of  privateers,  until  a British  force  under  Earl  Grey  attacked 
it  (in  the  autumn  of  1778),  ‘and  destroyed  its  shipping,  wharves,  and 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  BEDFORD. 


Route  9.  91 


stores.  About  the  time  of  the  settlement  (1764),  a few  vessels  were  sent 
out  in  the  pursuit  of  whales  ; and  this  business  soon  became  so  great  as  to 
give  New  Bedford  the  name  of  the  Whaling  City.  The  Revolutionary 
War  briefly  interrupted  this  career  of  prosperity,  but  between  1790  and 
1850  the  whalers  from  this  port  penetrated  every  sea.  The  business 
began  to  decline  after  the  Californian  gold-fever ; scores  of  the  old  ships 
were  filled  with  stone,  carried  to  the  South,  and  sunk  in  the  channels  be- 
fore the  rebellious  cities  on  the  coast  ; and  in  the  last  hours  of  the  Secession 
War  the  Confederate  cruiser  “ Shenandoah  ” destroyed  a large  part  of 
the  Pacific  whaling  fleet.  Although  this  business  has  greatly  waned,  the 
attention  of  the  people  has  so  been  turned  to  manufacturing  industry  that 
the  city  still  maintains  its  prosperity.  The  Wamsutta  Mills  have  four 
large  buildings  of  stone,  containing  90,000  spindles,  operated  by  1,600 
workmen,  and  consuming  10,000  bales  of  cotton  yearly.  800  men  are 
1 engaged  in  carriage  manufactories  ; 200  in  glass-works  ; 100  in  the  Gosnold 
Iron  Works.  $ 2,500,000  worth  of  oil  a year  is  turned  out  by  large  oil- 
works  ; 2,000,000  lbs.  of  copper  sheathing  are  made  yearly  ; and  other 
industries  are  in  full  tide  of  progress.  The  city  has  lately  laid  out 
$ 700,000  for  an  extensive  system  of  water-works.  The  population  in 
1870  was  21,375. 

New  Bedford  fronts  on  the  widenings  of  the  Acushnet  River,  near  its 
mouth,  and  is  built  on  the  side  of  a ridge  sloping  to  the  water’s  edge.  It 
“ has  a cosmopolitan  air  always  blowing  over  its  strata,”  from  the  number 
of  foreign  mariners  who  are  found  here,  and  one  of  its  quarters  is  called 
Fayal,  from  the  large  population  of  Portuguese  there  residing.  The  upper 
part  of  the  city  is  pleasant,  and  County  St.  is  lined  with  stately  old 
residences  of  the  marine  aristocracy,  whence  Lady  Emma  Stuart  Wortley 
, called  this  “ a city  of  palaces.”  These  “ palaces  ” are  all  on  the  model  of 
the  “ architectural  boulders  ” so  common  in  the  decadent  fishing-ports 
along  the  coast.  The  City  Hall  is  a fine  granite  building,  and  the 
Custom  House  is  built  of  the  same  material.  Several  of  the  churches  are 
notable  for  their  neatness  and  grace,  especially  the  spacious  Unitarian 
Church.  The  City  Library  is  a large  and  rapidly  increasing  collection  of 
books,  kept  in  finely  arranged  rooms,  and  free  to  the  public.  The  wealthy 
old  families  of  the  aristocracy  of  New  Bedford  are  famous  for  their  hospi- 
tality and  culture,  and  but  few  of  the  citizens  go  abroad  to  seek  summer 
recreation.  The  favorite  drive  is  around  Clark’s  Point,  which  extends  into 
Buzzard’s  Bay,  and  is  bordered  by  a broad,  smooth  road,  constructed  at 
great  expense  by  the  city  to  give  its  people  the  benefits  of  the  sea-breezes 
in  summer.  This  avenue  (5  M.  around)  affords  a brilliant  scene  in  sultry 
summer  afternoons. 

Opposite  the  city,  and  joined  to  it  by  a bridge  and  steam-ferry,  is  Fairhaven  (so 
named  from  its  pretty  location),  a village  formerly  devoted  to  the  whale  trade. 
In  1778,  while  New  Bedford  was  burning,  a large  British  force  crossed  to  Fair- 


92  Route  9. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  BEDFORD. 


haven,  intent  on  its  destruction.  But  Major  Fearing  of  the  militia,  fearing  not, 
attacked  and  repulsed  them  and  saved  the  village. 

W.  of  New  Bedford  are  the  large  but  thinly  settled  towns  of  Dartmouth  and 
Westport,  on  long  inlets  from  the  sea,  and  remote  from  railroads.  These  towns 
(the  Aponiganset  and  Acoakset  of  the  Indians)  are  nurseries  of  sailors,  and  have 
but  an  inferior  soil,  which  produces  fair  crops  when  manured  by  menhaden  fish. 
In  one  year  (1843)  six  seines  off  Dartmouth  shore  and  below  Padan-Aram,  caught 
18,100  barrels  of  these  fish,  which  sold  for  30c.  a barrel. 

Railroad  from  Fairhaven  to  Tremont,  on  the  Cape  Cod  R.  R. , see  Route  6. 

Steamers  leave  daily  during  the  summer,  for  Martha’s  Vineyard.  Upon  leaving 
the  wharf,  a fine  view  is  obtained  of  Fairhaven  on  the  E.,  and  of  the  long  wharves 
and  populous  slopes  of  New  Bedford  on  the  W.  Palmer’s  Island  with  its  light- 
house and  Fort  Phoenix,  is  soon  passed,  and  then  the  long,  projecting  Clark’s 
Point,  with  a strong  fortress  now  in  process  of  construction.  The  steamer 
now  passes  straight  to  the  S.  E.  across  Buzzards  Bay,  a noble  estuary  30  M.  long 
by  10  M.  wide,  with  thinly  populated  shores.  The  Norsemen  (11th  century) 
called  this  Bay,  Straum  Fiord  ; the  origin  of  its  present  name  is  not  apparent. 
Far  to  the  S.  are  seen  the  Round  Hills,  on  the  Dartmouth  coast,  and  Cuttyhunk, 
the  outermost  of  the  Elizabeth  Islands.  Cuttyhunk  was  colonized  by  Capt. 
Gosnold,  in  May,  1602,  with  a company  sent  out  by  the  Earl  of  Southampton. 
He  named  the  Island  “ Elizabeth,”  in  honor,  probably,  of  the  maiden  Queen.  The 
island  is  2^  M.  long,  and  at  that  time  abounded  in  game.  Gosnold  and  his 
people  erected  a fort  and  cabins  on  an  islet  in  a pond  near  the  centre  of  Cutty- 
hunk, and  here  inaugurated  the  first  settlement  of  New  England.  But  the 
Indians  were  hostile  and  numerous,  and  the  colonists’  supplies  soon  gave  out ; so 
within  a few  weeks  the  plan  was  abandoned,  and  the  people  returned  to  England. 
The  island  is  now  occupied  by  a merry  club  of  New-Yorkers,  who  spend  their 
summers  in  boating  and  fishing.  On  Penequeese  Island  (covering  about  100  acres) 
is  the  villa  long  occupied  by  John  Anderson,  of  New  York,  who  (in  April,  1873) 
gave  the  island  and  $ 50,000  in  cash  to  Prof.  Agassiz  for  the  location  of  a summer 
school  of  zoology  and  science  connected  with  Harvard  University.  Nashawena 
(3  M.  long)  is  E.  of  Cuttyhunk,  and  beyond  that  is  Pasque  Island.  This  is  owned 
by  a New  York  club,  who  have  built  a club-house,  farms,  and  stables,  and  prepared 
fruit  and  flower  gardens,  and  preserves  of  small  fish  for  bait.  The  surrounding 
waters  abound  in  bass,  blue-fish,  squeteague,  sword-fish,  &c.  Next  to  Pasque  is 
Naushon,  8 M.  long,  which  was  for  many  years  the  favorite  residence  of  James 
Bowdoin,  an  early  American  diplomatist,  whose  mansion  was  adorned  by  a large 
library,  philosophical  apparatus,  and  a fine  picture-gallery,  which  he  had  collected 
in  Europe.  At  his  death  he  left  all  these  things,  together  with  the  reversion  of 
Naushon,  to  Bowdoin  College.  Lady  Wortley,  who  visited  the  island  early  in 
this  century,  says,  “ Naushon  is  a little  pocket  America,  a Lilliputian  Western 
world,  a compressed  Columbia.” 

Naushon  was  long  inhabited  by  a Boston  gentleman,  and  is  said  to  be  “ stocked 
with  all  the  varieties  of  English  and  Scotch  game-birds,  and  most  of  their  game 
animals,  including  also  several  hundred  American  deer,  prairie  fowl,”  &c.  Kettle 
and  Tarpaulin  Coves  are  well-known  harbors,  respectively  on  the  N.  and  S.  shores 
of  Naushon.  Near  the  N.  E.  end  of  the  island  are  the  islets  of  Wepecket,  Onka- 
tomka,  Nannamesset,  and  the  Ram  Islands.  Between  Naushon  and  the  Falmouth 
shore  is  the  strait  called  Wood’s  Hole,  a difficult  and  intricate  passage  between 
Buzzard’s  Bay  and  the  Vineyard  Sound.  The  steamer  stops  at  the  village  of 
Wood’s  Hole,  where  there  are  several  summer  boarding-houses.  (See  Route  7.) 
After  leaving  this  point,  and  passing  Nobsque  Light  on  the  1.,  the  steamer  crosses 
Vineyard  Sound,  and  stops  at  the  wharf  at  Martha’s  Vineyard  • (Route  7).  Says 
an  English  tourist : “ What  scenes  can  be  more  refreshing  and  exalting  than  an 
expansive  view  of  the  mighty  waves,  dotted  here  and  there  with  such  beautiful 
islands  as  those  in  the  Vineyard  Sound?  While  aquatic  birds  skim  the  waves, 
and  the  gulls  are  screaming,  dipping,  and  darting  over  a shoal  of  blue-fish,  or 
menhaden,  vessels  outward  and  homeward  bound  are  always  passing,  for  it  in- 
cludes in  its  range  of  view  the  packets  and  sailing-craft  between  New  York  and 
Boston.  We  have  here  the  foreground  and  perspective  worthy  of  the  pencil 
of  Claude  Lorraine,  while  the  background  is  formed  of  the  granite  shores  of 
Massachusetts.” 


PROVIDENCE  TO  WORCESTER.  Route  10.  93 


10.  Providence  to  Worcester. 

Via  Prov.  and  Worcester  R.  R.,  43  M.,  Fare  $1.40. 

The  railroad  follows  the  line  of  the  Boston  and  Providence  R.  R.  as  far 
as  Pawtucket,  and  then  turns  up  the  valley  of  the  Blackstone  River.  Sta- 
tions, Pawtucket,  Valley  Falls,  and  Lonsdale.  At  the  latter  place  the  track 
passes  through  a deep  cut  in  Study  Hill,  to  which  William  Blackstone, 
the  first  settler  of  Boston,  retired  after  the  Puritan  immigration.  He 
lived  here  in  the  wilderness  from  1634  until  his  death,  in  1675,  surrounded 
by  his  books,  and  deeply  respected  by  the  Indians.  The  busy  little  river 
which  flows  by  the  hill  was  named  in  his  honor.  After  passing  the 
stations  of  Ashton,  Albion,  Manville,  and  Hamlet,  the  train  stops  at 
Woonsocket  ( Central  House , Woonsocket  Hotel),  a thriving  manufactur- 
ing town.  Within  a radius  of  3 M.  from  the  centre  of  the  town  are 

25.000  inhabitants.  In  the  town  itself,  4,200  persons  are  engaged  in 
cotton-factories  2,400  in  woollen-factories,  and  700  in  other  manufactories. 
In  1869,  the  production  of  these  busy  hands  was  reported  as  43,000,000 
yards  of  cotton  cloth,  3,300,000  yards  of  woollens  and  cassimeres,  100,000 
grain-bags,  30  tons  cotton-warp,  1,000  tons  of  soap.  The  celebrated 
Harris  cloths  are  made  here.  The  Social  Mills  have  43,000  spindles  and 
500  hands.  The  town  has  erected  a neat  monument  “in  memory  of  her 
brave  sons  who,  during  the  great  Rebellion,  gave  their  lives  that  the 
Republic  might  live.”  The  Harris  Institute  is  a popular  institution  given 
by  Mr.  Harris  to  the  people,  containing  a large  hall,  and  a library  of 

6.000  volumes.  Woonsocket  Hill,  the  highest  land  in  the  State,  com- 
mands a fine  view  of  the  populous  and  busy  valley. 

Railroads. — A branch  road  runs  from  Woonsocket  to  Milford,  Mass.  The 
Woonsocket  Division  of  the  New  York  and  New  England  R.  R.  terminates  here, 
while  the  main  line  of  that  road  crosses  the  Worcester  route  at  Waterford,  or 
Mill  River  Junction. 

After  passing  Woonsocket,  the  train  enters  the  State  of  Massachusetts. 
Stations,  Waterford,  and  Blackstone  ( Lincoln  House),  a busy  manufac- 
turing village  of  about  5,000  inhabitants.  Millville  is  in  the  town  of 
Blackstone.  Station,  Uxbridge  ( Wacantuck  House),  near  which  Major 
Talcott,  with  his  famous  flying  army,  attacked  the  Queen  of  Narragansett, 
who  had  made  a stand  here  in  a fortified  position.  After  a battle  of  three 
hours,  the  Queen  and  34  of  her  warriors  were  killed,  and  90  warriors 
surrendered,  only  to  be  butchered  in  cold  blood.  Considerable  manufac- 
turing is  done  in  the  valley  of  the  Blackstone,  but  the  hills  are  occupied 
by  a population  of  wealthy  farmers.  Stations,  Whitins,  Northbridge, 
Farnum’s,  Saundersville,  Sutton  (with  several  ponds),  and  Millbury 
{Millbury  Hotel),  a prosperous  manufacturing  town.  A branch  road  from 
this  point  runs  N.  to  the  Boston  and  Albany  R.  R.  Shortly  after  leaving 


94  Route  11.  PROVIDENCE  TO  HARTFORD 


Millbury,  the  train  passes,  by  the  Grand  Junction,  into  the  station  at 
Worcester  (see  Route' 21). 

11.  Providence  to  Hartford  and  Waterbury. 

Via  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill  It.  R.  To  Hartford,  90  M.,  fare  $ 3.30. 
To  Waterbury,  122|  M.,  fare,  $ 4.15. 

After  leaving  Providence  the  train  passes  the  stations,  Cranston,  Oak 
Lawn,  Natick,  Riverpoint,  Quidnick,  Anthony,  Washington,  Nipmuck, 
Summit,  and  Greene.  These  are  mostly  manufacturing  villages  in  the 
extensive  town  of  Greene,  and  several  of  them  are  occupied  by  the  large 
factories  of  A.  & W.  Sprague.  Shortly  after  leaving  Greene  the  train 
enters  the  State  of  Connecticut,  and  passes  the  stations,  Oneco,  Sterling, 
Moosup,  and  Plainfield.  The  latter  station  is  in  the  Indian  district  of 
Quinnibaug,  which  was  bought  by  Gov.  Winthrop  in  1659,  and  settled 
by  Massachusetts  people.  From  the  great  quantities  of  corn  which  it 
produced,  it  was  called  in  the  colonial  era  the  “ Egypt  of  E.  Connecticut.” 
At  Plainfield  the  Norwich  and  Worcester  R.  R.  crosses  the  line.  After 
passing  the  stations,  Canterbury,  Jewett  City,  Lovetts,  Baltic,  Waldo’s, 
and  S.  Windham,  the  line  crosses  the  New  London  Northern  Division  of 
the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.  at  Willimantic  (Brainerd’s  Hotel).  This  is 
a large  manufacturing  village,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  which  falls 
100  ft.  in  1 M.  Extensive  thread,  silk,  and  cotton  mills  are  located  on 
the  water-power  thus  afforded,  occupying  large  factories  built  of  stone 
found  in  this  vicinity.  The  Air  Line  R.  R.  between  Boston  and  New 
York  passes  through  Willimantic,  which  is  becoming  a great  railroad 
centre.  The  only  legend  connected  with  Windham  (in  which  town  Wil- 
limantic is  situated)  is  of  a long  battle  between  two  hordes  of  immigrat- 
ing frogs,  in  which  several  hundred  of  the  combatants  were  killed.  This 
event  has  been  duly  attested  and  described  by  a local  poet  in  a Batrachy- 
omachian  epic  of  30  stanzas.  The  train  now  passes  Andover,  Bolton  (near 
which  is  Bolton  Notch,  a romantic  pass  into  the  valley  of  the  Connecti- 
cut), and  Vernon.  At  Vernon  a branch  track  (5  M.)  runs  to  Rockville,  a 
prosperous  manufacturing  village  on  the  water-power  afforded  by  the 
Hockannon  River.  Beyond  Vernon  is  Manchester,  which  makes  yearly 
2,000,000  yards  of  gingham,  90,000  pairs  of  socks,  450  tons  of  book-paper, 
besides  government  and  bank-note  paper  for  several  nations.  From 
thence  a branch  railroad  (2J  M.)  runs  to  S.  Manchester,  the  seat  of  the 
silk-works  of  the  Cheney  Brothers.  After  Manchester  comes  Burnside, 
where  paper-making  was  a brisk  business  in  1776,  and  where  there  are 
now  3 paper-mills,  whose  yearly  production  is  300  tons  of  writing- 
paper,  400  tons  of  manilla  paper,  and  500  tons  of  book-paper.  The 
next  station  is  E.  Hartford,  with  a wide,  level  street  lined  with  elms, 
2 M.  long.  This  district  was  the  home  of  the  Podunk  Indians,  whose 


AND  WATERBURY. 


Route  11.  95 


chief,  Totanimo,  could  bring  200  bowmen  into  the  field.  The  train  now 
crosses  the  broad  Connecticut  River  and  enters  the  city  of  Hartford  (see 
Route  21).  Connections  are  made  here  with  the  New  Haven,  Hartford, 
and  Springfield  R.  R.  (Route  21,  for  New  York  or  Boston)  ; also  with  the 
Conn.  Western  (Route  20)  and  the  Conn.  Valley  (Route  14)  Railroads. 
From  Hartford  the  line  runs  by  Newington  to  New  Britain  (Strickland 
House,  Humphrey  House),  a wealthy  and  working  town.  The  water-supply 
is  from  a large  reservoir  some  200  ft.  above  the  village.  In  the  centre  of 
the  town  is  a spacious  square,  adorned  with  trees  and  fountains,  and  near 
its  end  is  the  elegant  and  imposing  S.  Cong.  Church.  In  the  same  vicinity 
is  the  State  Normal  School.  The  products  of  the  industry  of  New 
Britain  are  varied  and  extensive.  The  Russel  and  Erwin  Co.  employs  500 
men  in  5 acres  of  works,  and  sends  out  millions  of  dollars’  worth  of  locks, 
which  are  used  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Hardware,  lace,  hose,  merino 
goods,  gold  jewelry,  and  knives  are  made  here  in  large  quantities. 

Elihu  Burritt,  the  “learned  blacksmith,”  was  horn  at  New  Britain  in  1811.  At 
the  age  of  16,  he  was  apprenticed  to  a blacksmith,  and  followed  that  trade  for 
many  years.  Desiring  to  read  the  Bible  in  its  original  languages,  he  mastered  the 
Greek  and  Hebrew  by  evening  studies,  and  acquired  such  a philological  taste, 
that  he  afterwards  became  familiar  with  all  the  principal  ancient  and  modern 
languages.  He  became  an  earnest  advocate  of  universal  peace,  temperance,  and 
the  abolition  of  slavery,  and  published  a paper  and  several  books  in  defence  of 
1 these  movements.  After  making  several  visits  to  Europe,  he  became  U.  S.  Con- 
sul at  Birmingham,  where  he  has  since  remained. 

At  Plainville,  the  next  station,  the  New  Haven  and  Northampton  R.  R. 
j (Route  15)  crosses  this  route.  Many  carriages  are  made  in  this  village. 
At  Forestville,  Bristol,  and  Terryville  stations  are  many  large  clock-fac- 
tories, where  every  variety  of  clocks  are  made.  After  passing  several 
: flag  stations,  the  train  stops  at  Waterbury  ( Adams  House,  ScovilVs). 

This  is  a small  city  (of  10,826  inhabitants),  on  a narrow  plateau  at 
the  junction  of  the  Mad  and  Naugatuck  Rivers.  The  principal  streets 
diverge  from  Centre  Square,  a small  but  well-kept  Green,  on  which  front 
two  Cong,  churches,  the  new  and  elegant  building  of  the  City  Hall,  and 
St.  J ohn’s  Episcopal  Church.  The  latter  is  called  the  finest  church  in 
the  State,  and  is  built  of  granite  and  Ohio  stone  in  the  pointed  Gothic 
style.  The  sharply  pointed  ceiling  is  highly  ornamented,  and  the  spire 
(200  ft.  high)  uplifts  a massive  stone  cross.  The  Silas  Bronson  Library, 
the  gift  of  a New  York  gentlemen,  contains  13,000  volumes  and  is  free  to 
the  citizens.  On  the  hill  near  the  Square  is  a large  boarding-school  for 
young  ladies. 

The  manufacturing  interests  of  the  city  employ  a capital  of  nearly 
$ 8,000,000.  $ 2,000,000  are  invested  in  the  brass-works,  besides  which 

there  are  5 button-factories,  2 clock-factories,  and  works  which  turn  out 
great  quantities  of  wire,  steel  traps,  hooks  and  eyes,  hoop-skirts,  and 
kerosene  fixtures.  The  American  Pin  Co.,  the  American  Suspender  Co., 


96  Route  12.  NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT. 


and  the  American  Flask  and  Cap  Co.,  have  their  works  here.  Silver- 
plated  ware  is  made  in  large  quantities,  also  the  best  quality  of  steel 
rolls. 

There  is  a pleasant  drive,  much  of  the  way  on  the  quiet  and  embowered  river- 
road,  to  the  Riverside  Cemetery  (1£  M.),  a small  but  picturesque  rural  ground 
among  the  forest-covered  hills  S.  of  the  Naugatuck  River. 

At  Waterbury  the  Naugatuck  R.  R.  connects  with  the  Hartford,  Providence, 
and  Fishkill  line.  The  latter  road  finds  its  terminus  here,  but  work  is  progress- 
ing on  sections  passing  through  Hawley ville,  Danbury,  and  Brewster  (N.  Y.),  to 
Fishkill,  on  the  Hudson  River.  The  river  will  probably  be  bridged,  and  a con- 
nection made  with  the  Erie  Railroad,  thus  opening  a new  route  between  Boston 
and  the  West. 

12.  New  London  to  Vermont. 

Via  the  New  London  Northern  Division  of  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad,  New 
London  to  Brattleboro’,  120  M. 

The  train  leaves  the  Shore  Line  Station  at  New  London.  Beautiful 
views  of  the  broad  and  expansive  Thames  on  the  E.,  so  a seat  should  be 
secured  on  the  r.  side  of  the  car.  Near  Mohegan  is  the  old  Mohegan 
reservation,  where  824  Indians  of  that  tribe  were  numbered  in  1774. 
After  passing  Waterford,  Montville,  Massapeag,  Mohegan,  and  Thames- 
ville,  the  train  crosses  the  Yantic  River,  and  enters  Norwich  (*  Wauregan 
House,  $2. 50 -$3.00,  corner  Main  and  Union  Sts. ; Uncas  Hotel,  small, 
near  station;  American  House).  Norwich  is  a city  of  16,653  inhab. 
with  its  streets  terraced  on  a steep  acclivity  facing  to  the  S.  over  the 
lake-like  Thames,  of  which  a local  writer  claims  that  “not  Richmond 
Hill  itself,  or  Greenwich  observatory,  looks  on  a Thames  more  fair.” 
The  situation  of  the  city  is  indeed  beautiful,  being  on  high  ground  be- 
tween the  Yantic  and  Shetucket  Rivers,  which  here  unite  to  form  the 
Thames.  The  business  part  of  Norwich  is  in  a semicircle  of  which  Main 
St.,  from  Franklin  Square  to  Central  Wharf  Bridge,  is  the  chord,  and 
beyond  this  the  residence-streets  rise  in  terraced  lines.  The  banks,  stores, 
and  hotels  are  mostly  in  the  district  between  Main  St.  and  the  rivers. 
The  city  and  county  buildings  are  neat  and  substantial,  and  there  are 
two  or  three  fine  churches. 

Washington  St.  and  Broadway  are  noble  avenues  lined  with  large 
and  secluded  old  mansions.  The  former  street  runs  near  the  Yantic, 
passing  the  ivy-clad  Christ  Church  (Epis.),  and  ends  at  Williams  Park,  or 
the  Parade,  near  which  is  the  mansion  of  the  Revolutionary  General  Wil- 
liams, and  the  imposing  building  of  the  Free  Academy.  The  latter  is  a 
mixed  school,  of  high  grade  and  of  a wide  reputation.  Turning  to  the  1. 
from  the  Parade,  Sachem  St.  (opposite  the  Academy)  leads  to  a pretty 
rural  cemetery  on  the  hills  over  the  river.  In  this  vicinity  were  the 
Yantic  Falls,  whose  praises  have  been  sounded  by  Mrs.  Sigourney  and 
others,  both  in  prose  and  verse.  A deep  cutting  in  the  hard  rock,  and 
curiously  piled*  and  water-worn  boulders,  are  all  that  remain  of  “the 


NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT.  Route  12.  97 


beetling  cliffs,  the  compressed  channel,  the  confused  mass  of  granite,  and 
the  roaring,  foaming  river,”  by  which  a former  generation’s  “lone  enthu- 
siasts wandered  and  dreamed.”  The  river  has  been  dammed  and  diverted 
into  an  artificial  channel,  through  which  it  affords  a heavy  water-power 
to  a large  cluster  of  factories  below.  Fine  wood-carving  machinery,  rub- 
ber goods,  corks,  iron  pipes,  files,  blankets  and  carpets,  fiax  and  twine, 
paper,  envelopes,  and  cotton  goods  are  manufactured  in  Norwich  and  its 
tributary  villages.  On  Sachem  St.,  near  the  site  of  the  Falls,  is  a little 
cemetery  in  a cluster  of  pine-trees.  This  spot  was  chosen  centuries  ago 
as  a sepulchral  ground  for  the  “blood  royal  of  Mohegan,”  and  has  been 
carefully  reserved  by  the  tribe  ever  since.  Many  of  the  Grand  Sachems 
are  buried  here,  from  those  earlier  chiefs  of  whom  earthly  history  has  no 
record  down  to  Mazeen,  the  last  of  the  line,  who  was  buried  in  1826  in 
the  presence  of  25  - 30  of  the  feeble  remnant  of  the  tribe.  In  the  centre 
of  the  ancient  monuments  stands  a massive  obelisk  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Uncas.  (Its  foundation-stone  was  laid  by  President  Jackson.) 

Uncas  was  a chief  of  the  Pequot  tribe,  who  revolted  in  1634  against  the  Sachem 
Sassaeus,  and  joined  the  Mohegans.  He  was  chosen  Sachem  of  the  latter  tribe, 
and  by  sagacious  alliances  with  the  English  colonists,  he  steadily  increased  the 
power  of  his  people,  who  had  previously  held  a subordinate  position  among  the 
aboriginal  clans.  He  led  his  warriors  by  the  side  of  the  colonial  train-bands  in 
the  campaign  of  1637,  which  annihilated  his  most  dreaded  foe,  the  Pequot  tribe  ; 
and  in  1643,  he  fought  the  powerful  Narragansetts  until  the  Anglo-Mohegan 
forces,  under  his  direction,  had  defeated  and  humbled  that  tribe.  He  repelled  an 
invasion  of  the  Western  Indians,  aided  by  a strong  Mohawk  contingent,  in  1648, 
and  kept  up  an  incessant  war  upon  his  Indian  neighbors  until  he  became  “the 
most  powerful  and  prosperous  prince  in  New  England.”  In  1640  he  ceded  to  the 
colony  of  Conn,  all  his  land  except  a tract  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  Thames  em- 
bracing three  or  four  townships,  and  sold  (for  £ 70)  the  present  site  of  Norwich, 
which  was  occupied  in  1660  by  a nomadic  church  from  Saybrook.  He  frequently 
visited  the  colonial  capitals,  Boston  and  Hartford,  and  ever  remained  friendly  to 
the  settlers,  holding  his  people  to  peaceful  ways  while  every  other  tribe  of  New 
England  (except  the  Christian  Indians)  joined  King  Philip’s  league  against  the 
colonies.  After  reigning  as  Sachem' of  the  Mohegans  for  nearly. 50  years,  he  died 
in  1683,  a consistent  Pagan  to  the  last.  He  was  crafty,  cruel,  and  rapacious  in 
his  policy  ; but  as  the  head  of  a savage  people,  he  was  sagacious  and  far-sighted, 
and  as  a military  leader  he  was  skilful  ancl  fearless.  It  is-  difficult  to  tell  what 
would  have  been  the  course  of  New  England  history,  or  what  final  and  over- 
whelming disasters  might  have  blotted  out  those  feeble  colonies  along  the  coast, 
had  not  the  two  great  southern  tribes  been  ruined  by  the  attacks  (sometimes 
aided  by  a few  dozen  English  musketeers)  of  the  Mohegans  under  their  Sachem, 
Uncas.  Beyond  the  village  of  Greenville  is  Sacliem’s  Plain  (1|-2M.  from 
Norwich.  Horse-cars  most  of  the  way).  Here  was  fought  a battle  between  Mi- 
antonomoh  and  900  Narragansetts,  and  Uncas  with  500  Mohegans. 

Miantonomoh  was  the  nephew  of  Canonicus,  and  in  1636  succeeded  to  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  Narragansetts.  He  was  ever  a firm  friend  to  the  colonists,  grant- 
ing them  a large  portion  of  the  present  State  of  Rhode  Island,  and  leaving  his 
quarrels  with  Uncas  to  their  arbitration.  In  1642  he  went  to  Boston  to  meet 
certain  men  who  had  accused  him  of  planning  hostilities  against  the  colonies. 
He  awaited  his  accusers  in  the  presence  of  the  Governor  and  council  of  Massa- 
chusetts, but  no  charges  were  preferred  against  him,  and  he  left  Boston  after  re- 
ceiving high  honors  from  Gov.  Winthrop,  who  admired  his  character.  In  the 
following  year,  stung  to  madness  by  insults  offered  by  Uncas,  he  led  900  Narra- 
gansett , warriors  in  an  attack  on  Mohegan.  Uncas  and  500  men  met  him  on 
Sachem’s  Plain,  and  in  accordance  with  a plan  preconcerted  by  the  Mohegan 
5 G 


98  Route  12.  NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT. 


chiefs,  invited  him  to  a parley.  While  this  parley  was  going  on,  and  the  Narra- 
gansetts  were  off  their  guard,  the  Mohegans  made  a fierce  and  sudden  attack  and 
scattered  them  in  all  directions.  The  pursuit  was  continued  for  many  miles,  and 
hundreds  of  the  invaders  fell,  hut  Miantonomoh  was  captured  and  led  prisoner  to 
Hartford.  After  remaining  here  in  close  confinement,  he  was  surrendered  to  Un- 
cas,  by  whom,  “ by  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  English  magistrates  and  elders,” 
he  was  executed.  The  royal  Narragansett  was  carried  by  Uncas  and  his  warriors 
from  Hartford  to  Norwich,  and  was  put  to  death  on  the  battle-field  of  Sachem’s 
Plain,  at  a place  now  marked  by  a stone  monument  inscribed  “ Miantonomoh, 
1643.”  He  was  a brave,  magnanimous,  and  humane  Sachem,  incapable  of  dissim- 
ulation or  treachery,  and  therefore  he  became  their  victim. 

For  many  years  his  people  came  hither  in  the  season  of  flowers  and  adorned  his 
grave,  each  of  them  leaving  a stone  upon  it.  The  lofty  cairn  thus  formed  re- 
mained till  a farmer  (of  the  English  “Hodge ’’type)  carried  away  the  stones  to 
make  a foundation  for  a new  barn.  In  1841,  the  present  granite  monument  was 
erected. 

Nanunteno,  the  son  of  Miantonomoh,  and  his  successor  in  the  government, 
ever  cherished  a just  hatred  of  the  colonists,  and  joined  King  Philip’s  league  with 
enthusiasm.  Having  been  made  prisoner,  in  1676,  he  was  offered  pardon  in  case 
he  would  treat  with  the  English.  On  declining  to  make  terms,  he  was  threatened 
with  instant  death,  whereupon  he  answered,  “ I like  it  well ; I shall  die  before  my 
heart  is  soft,  or  I have  spoken  anything  unworthy  of  myself”  ; “acting  herein,” 
says  Cotton  Mather,  “ as  if,  by  a Pythagorean  metempsychosis,  some  old  Roman 
ghost  had  possessed  the  body  of  this  Western  Pagan,  like  Attilius  Regulus.”  He 
was  instantly  shot. 

About  5 M.  S.  of  Norwich  is  the  old  fortress  of  Uncas,  on  the  highest  hill  in 
Mohegan,  and  in  the  vicinity  live  the  few  half-breeds  who  are  all  that  remain  of 
the  tribe  of  Uncas.  President  Dwight’s  remark  about  the  Pequots  at  Groton  will 
apply  equally  well  to  the  Mohegans  or  to  the  Narragansetts  in  Charlestown,  R.  I., 
“the  former  proud,  heroic  spirit  of  the  Pequot  is  shrunk  into  the  tameness  and 
torpor  of  reasoning  brutism.” 

Steamers  leave  Norwich  every  morning,  in  summer, for  New  London  and  Watch 
Hill.  The  Norwich  and  Worcester  R.  R.  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  above  the  city. 

After  leaving  Norwich  the  line  passes  the  stations  Norwich  Town,  Yan- 
tic,  Franklin,  and  Lebanon.  The  village  of  Lebanon,  situated  in  a rich 
farming  district,  was  very  lively  during  the  War  for  Independence.  Jon- 
athan Trumbull,  Governor  of  Conn.  1769-83,  resided  here,  and  here  was 
the  War  Office  of  the  State,  which  furnished  more  men  and  money  in  the 
Revolutionary  War  than  any  other  State  save  Massachusetts.  Gov. 
Trumbull  was  Washington’s  right-hand  man  during  the  northern  cam- 
paigns, and  when  any  perplexing  question  or  pressing  demand  arose,  the 
noble  Virginian  would  often  say,  “Let  us  see  what  Brother  Jonathan 
says.”  The  name  “Brother  Jonathan”  has  passed  into  universal  use  as 
a humorous  designation  of  the  U.  S.,  corresponding  to  the  “John  Bull  ” 
which  is  applied  to  England.  At  the  gubernatorial  mansion  in  Lebanon, 
Trumbull  received  Washington,  Lafayette,  Rochambeau,  Jefferson, 
Franklin,  and  other  distinguished  men.  Five  French  regiments  were  can- 
toned in  the  town  and  reviewed  by  the  commander-in-chief,  while  De 
Lauzion’s  Legion  (500  horsemen)  wintered  here.  The  Trumbull  mansion 
and  War  Office  are  still  standing,  and  in  the  little  cemetery  E.  of  the  vil- 
lage is  the  family  vault. 

The  most  prominent  of  the  Trumbulls  are  Jonathan,  Gov.  of  Conn.  1769-83  ; 
Jonathan,  his  son,  M,  C.  in  1789-95,  U.  S.  Senator  in  1795-6,  and  Governor  in 
1798-1S09:  Josepi^  another  son,  commissary-general  of  the  Continental  Army; 


NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT.  Jioute  12.  99 


Joseph,  grandson  of  “ Brother  Jonathan,"  5 year.!  M.  C.,  and  2 years  Gov.  of  Conn.; 
Lyman  Trumbull  (born  near  Lebanon  in  1813),  the  eminent  jurist  and  U.  S.  Sena- 
tor from  Illinois,  1855-72  ; and  Col.  John  Trumbull  (some  time  of  the  1st  Conn., 
and  afterwards  aide  to  Washington),  who  studied  painting  under  West,  in  Lon- 
don, and  executed  many  large  historical  pictures,  depicting  scenes  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary era.  Four  of  his  works  are  in  the  rotunda  of  the  National  Capitol,  and  a 
good  collection  of  his  paintings  is  in  the  Athenaeum  at  Hartford.  The  Art  Gal- 
lery of  Yale  College  has  a large  number  of  his  minor  works,  57  in  all. 

The  line  now  leaves  the  Yantic  Valley,  runs  along  the  Border  of  the 
Shetucket,  and,  passing  S.  Windham,  stops  at  Willimantic  (see  Route  11). 
At  this  point  the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill,  and  the  New  York 
and  New  England  tracks  cross  the  New  London  Northern  Railroad. 

Running  N.  from  Willimantic,  the  line  follows  the  Willimantic  River, 
through  the  county  of  Tolland.  Stations,  S.  Coventry,  Eagleville  (with 
large  sheeting  manufactories),  and  Mansfield,  with  four  companies  engaged 
in  making  sewing-silk,  a profitable  industry  which  was  inaugurated  here 
in  the  last  century.  Stations,  Merrow,  S.  Willington,  and  Tolland,  about 
4 M.  W.  of  which  is  a sequestered  village  containing  the  modest  county 
buildings.  Stafford  is  celebrated  for  its  mineral  springs,  the  principal 
one  being  among  the  best  of  chalybeate  springs.  It  contains  considerable 
iron  in  solution,  with  carbonic  acid  and  natron,  and  is  a pleasant  water  to 
the  taste.  It  is  held  to  be  very  efficacious  in  all  cutaneous  affections. 
The  other  spring,  which  is  charged  with  hydrogen  gas  and  sulphur,  has 
become  choked  up,  and  has  long  been  disused.  The  Indians  were  in  the 
habit  of  using  these  waters  with  beneficial  effect,  and  the  whites  began  to 
visit  the  springs  about  110  years  ago. 

The  Stafford  Sjorings  House  is  a large  and  inexpensive  hotel  near  the 
chalybeate  spring,  on  the  1.  of  the  track. 

The  train  now  runs  N.  for  10  M.  across  the  sparsely  populated  town  of 
Stafford,  and  at  State  Line  it  enters  the  State  of  Massachusetts.  The 
town  of  Monson  is  next  crossed  (11  M.).  Much  manufacturing  is  done 
here  along  a branch  of  the  Chicopee  River,  and  a fine  granite  quarry  is  to 
be  seen  near  the  central  station,  from  which  great  quantities  of  stone  have 
been  sent  to  Albany  for  the  new  State  House.  The  extensive  buildings 
of  the  State  Almshouse  are  in  this  town. 

Station,  Palmer,  where  this  route  crosses  the  great  trunk  line  of  the 
Boston  and  Albany  R.  R.  (Route  21). 

The  Ware  River  R.  R.,  which  is  to  run  via  Barre  to  Peterboro,  N.  H.,  is  com- 
pleted from  Palmer  to  Gilbertville  and  Ware. 

The  soil  of  Ware  is  singular,  even  in  New  England,  for  its  hardness  and  ster- 
ility. It  was  granted  to  a company  of  the  veterans  of  King  Philip’s  War,  but 
after  due  examination  they  sold  it  for  2 cents  an  acre.  President  Dwight  rode 
through  Ware,  and  said  of  its  soil,  “ It  is  like  self-righteousness,  the  more  a man 
has  of  it  the  poorer  he  is."  The  poetic  account  of  the  genesis  of  Ware  asserts 
that 

“ Dame  Nature  once,  while  making  land, 

Had  refuse  left  of  stone  and  sand  ; 

She  viewed  it  well,  then  threw  it  down 
Between  Coy's  Hill  and  Belchertown, 

And  said,  * You  paltry  stuff,  lie  there. 

And  make  a town  and  call  it  Ware/  ” 


100  Route  12.  NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT. 


Stations,  Three  Rivers  (near  which  the  Chicopee  River  is  crossed),  Bar- 
rets, and  Belchertown  ( Belcher  House),  a quiet  hill-town  of  Hampshire 
County,  whose  present  name  is  scarcely  an  improvement  on  its  original 
appellation  (in  the  colonial  era)  of  Cold  Spring. 

From  Three  Rivers  the  Athol  and  Enfield  R.  R.  runs  through  the  sparsely 
populated  towns  of  Enfield,  Greenwich,  Dana,  and  New  Salem  (all  the  villages  by 
the  railroad  have  small  inns)  to  Athol  (35  M.  from  Palmer)  on  the  Vt.  and  Mass. 
R.  R.  (see  Route  25). 

After  running  across  Belchertown  (13  M. ) the  train  passes  S.  Amherst 
and  stops  at 

Amherst  {Amherst  Hotel,  $2.50  a day,  J M.  from  the  station),  a 
pretty  village  situated  in  a romantic  district,  and  distinguished  for 
its  college.  Its  society  is  of  that  cultured  and  refined  order  which  is 
usually  found  in  American  academic  towns,  and  its  sesthetic  taste  is  seen 
in  the  fine  architecture  of  its  churches  (notably  Grace  Church  and  the 
1st  Congregational).  The  buildings  of  Amherst  College  (founded  in 
1821)  are  located  on  a hill  on  the  edge  of  the  village  to  the  S.  On  the 
street  W.  of  the  buildings  are  the  President’s  House,  the  Library,  and 
College  Hall.  The  curious  octagonal  structure  with  a bright  blue  dome, 
which  stands  in  advance  of  the  line  of  college  halls,  is  devoted  to  the  dis- 
play of  rare  collections.  Part  of  it  is  occupied  by  the  Lawrence  Observ- 
atory, and  on  the  upper  story  are  the  great  * cabinets  of  minerals  and 
meteorites  prepared  and  collected  by  Prof.  C.  U.  Shepard,  a disciple  of 
Silliman,  who  has  been  for  the  last  45  years  one  of  the  leading  physicists 
of  America.  These  collections  “ are  only  surpassed  by  those  of  the  Brit- 
ish Museum  and  the  Imperial  Cabinet  at  Vienna.”  They  represent  an 
immense  value,  some  single  pieces  having  cost  thousands  of  dollars.  The 
largest  ruby  in  the  world  is  shown  here,  being  2 ft.  high  by  1 ft.  in  diam- 
eter. It  was  found  in  N.  Carolina.  A sapphire,  in  the  cabinet,  weighs 
30  lbs.,  and  many  other  rare  and  costly  specimens  are  here  preserved. 
On  the  lower  floor  is  Wood’s  Cabinet  of  geology  and  palaeontology,  em- 
bracing over  20,000  specimens.  The  Nineveh  Gallery  opens  out  of  Wood’s 
Cabinet,  and  contains  many  Oriental  and  Indian  relics,  together  with  a 
collection  of  rare  coins  and  medals.  Along  the  vralls  of  this  room  are 
arranged  a succession  of  large  * Assyrian  sculptures  from  the  palace  of 
Sardanapalus,  at  Nineveh.  E.  of  this  building  is  the  line  of  the  older  col- 
lege-halls, N.  College,  the  old  Chapel,  and  S.  College.  These  are  in  the 
early  Novanglian  architecture,  and  closely  resemble  the  older  halls  of 
Harvard.  At  the  S.  end  of  this  line  is  the  Appleton  Cabinet,  whose  up- 
per story,  surrounded  by  barbarous  frescos,  contains  several  collections 
embracing  5,900  species  of  animals  and  8,000  species  of  shells,  prepared 
by  Prof.  Adams,  of  Amherst,,  the  conchologist.  An  Herbarium  (in  the 
same  hall)  contains  4-5,000  kinds  of  plants,  while  seeds,  lichens,  &c., 
are  arranged  in  other  cabinets. 


NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT.  Route  12.  101 


On  the  lower  floor  is  a hall  110  ft.  long  by  45  ft.  wide,  wherein  are  kept 
9,000  specimens  of  ancient  tracks  in  stone.  This  wonderful  * collection 
is  by  far  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  well  illustrates  the  science  of  ich- 
nology  which  first  arose  at  Amherst.  The  tracks  of  birds,  beasts,  and 
reptiles,  which  have  been  dead  perhaps  a myriad  of  years,  and  the  marks 
of  the  pattering  of  rain-storms  which  fell  through  the  silent  air  of  pre- 
historic ages,  are  here  preserved  on  the  sandstone  of  the  Connecticut 
valley. 

Edward  Hitchcock,  D.  D.,  the  founder  of  ichnological  science,  was  bom  at 
Deerfield,  Mass.,  in  1793.  He  was  connected  with  Amherst  College,  either  as 
professor  or  president,  from  1825  to  1854,  and  planned  and  executed  the  geological 
i survey  of  Mass.,  “the  first  survey  of  an  entire  State  under  the  authority  of  gov- 
ernment in  the  world.”  He  published  20-25  volumes,  mostly  on  geological  sub- 
jects, of  which  the  “Elementary  Geology”  and  the  “Religion  of  Geology” 
passed  through  many  editions  in  America  and  England.  “The  Ichnology  of 
New  England,”  published  by  the  State  in  1858,  illustrated  and  explained  the 
branch  of  science  which  he  founded. 

E.  of  a line  of  old  dormitories  is  a verdant  lawn  covered  with  trees,  at 
the  farther  end  of  which  is  E.  College,  which  is  soon  to  be  taken  down  on 
account  of  its  insecurity.  This  building  completely  hides  the  new  and 
elegant  * Memorial  Chapel,  whose  exterior  is  a beautiful  model  of  Gothic 
architecture.  It  is  cruciform  in  shape  with  finely  finished  rose-windows 
j in  the  transept,  and  colonettes  of  polished  Scotch  granite  at  various  points 
i on  the  outside.  The  graceful  spire  is  built  (as  well  as  the  Chapel  walls) 

of  stone,  and  within  the  tower  is  a marble  tablet,  containing  the  names 
I of  the  alumni  and  past  students  of  Amherst  who  fell  in  the  War  for  the 
Union.  From  the  E.  side  of  the  chapel  is  obtained  a pleasing  view  of  the 
rich  valley  E.  of  Amherst.  The  Barret  Gymnasium  is  near  the  E.  College, 
and  the  N.  side  of  the  prospective  quadrangle  is  occupied  by  two  fine 
stone  buildings;  the  Walker  Hall,  a tasteful  and  ornate  structure  sur- 
mounted by  a spired  observatory,  and  fronted  by  an  elegant  portico, 
formed  by  five  Gothic  arches  supported  on  coupled  columns  ; and  the 
Williston  Hall,  a substantial  stone  building.  Before  leaving  the  College 
Hill,  the  College  Tower  should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  the  * view, 
which  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  New  England,  extending  over  parts 
of  the  rich  Conn,  valley  and  over  the  rugged  and  picturesque  towns  of 
eastern  Hampshire.  (Stereoscopic  views  taken  from  the  tower  in  nine 
directions,  as  well  as  of  the  college  buildings,  are  sold  at  a store  in  the 
village. ) On  the  opposite  side  of  Amherst,  and  about  1 M.  from  the  Green, 
is  the  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College.  Its  handsome  buildings  are 
on  the  edge  of  a rich  plain,  from  which  fine  views  are  obtained  of  the 
mountains  on  the  W.  and  S.  On  the  experimental  farm  of  400  acres  is 
the  Durfee  Plant-House,  where  many  rare  and  valuable  plants  are 
preserved.  The  “ Aggies  ” (as  the  students  here  are  called  by  the  other 
New  England  collegians)  are  drilled  to  a high  state  of  discipline  (infantry 


102  Route  12.  NEW  LONDON  TO  VERMONT. 


and  light  artillery)  by  military  instructors ; and  of  such  a nature  is  the 
field-work,  that,  since  its  establishment  in  1866,  this  has  become  the 
best  agricultural  school  in  America. 

Excursions  from  Amherst  to  Norwottuck  Hill  (4  M.),  Northampton 
(7  M.),  Mounts  Holyoke,  Tom,  and  Sugar-Loaf,  are  easily  made.  2 M.  E. 
of  the  R.  R.  station  is  the  Orient  Springs  Health  Institute,  a large,  quiet 
hotel  on  a far- viewing  and  sequestered  hill.  Salubrious  mineral  springs 
are  in  the  vicinity. 

Beyond  Amherst  are  the  stations  N.  Amherst  and  Leverett.  The  latter 
is  situated  in  the  midst  of  very  picturesque  scenery.  On  the  W.  is  Mount 
Mettawampe  (or  Toby),  the  highest  peak  in  the  lower  Connecticut  valley. 
The  line  now  passes  through  Montague,  with  the  Hunting  Hills  on  the  E. 
Stations,  S.  Montague  and  Miller’s  Falls,  where  the  Vt.  and  Mass.  R.  R. 
(Route  25)  crosses  the  present  route.  Stations,  Northfield  Farms  and 
Northfield  {Northfield  Hotel),  a charming  village  with  broad,  quiet  streets, 
built  on  a plateau  above  the  broad  alluvial  intervales  along  the  Conn. 
River  This  peaceful  agricultural  town  was  settled  in  1673,  on  the  Indian 
lands  called  Squawkeague.  During  King  Philip’s  War  frequent  and 
fierce  attacks  were  made  upon  it  by  the  Indians,  and  troops  conveying 
supplies  were  ambushed  and  cut  to  pieces.  When  Major  Treat,  with  his 
“ flying  army  ” of  Conn,  soldiers  reached  the  place,  its  people  evacuated 
it,  and  passed,  under  his  escort,  to  a place  of  safety.  It  was  reoccupied 
in  1685,  but  Indian  attacks  soon  compelled  the  decimated  settlers  to  leave, 
and  it  lay  desolate  until  1712,  when  the  erection  of  Fort  Dummer  afforded 
sure  defence.  The  station-house  at  S.  Vernon  {MerriVs  Hotel)  is  on 
the  boundary-line  between  Vermont  and  Massachusetts.  The  broad 
intervales  and  the  quiet  stream  of  the  Connecticut  River  are  crossed  be- 
tween Northfield  and  Vernon. 

At  S.  Vernon  a connection  is  made  with  the  Ashuelot  Railroad,  which  passes 
the  stations,  Hinsdale,  Ashuelot,  Winchester,  Westford,  and  Swanzey  (all  in  New 
Hampshire),  and  at  Keene  connects  with  the  Cheshire  Railroad.  Hinsdale  was 
settled  by  Mass,  people  in  1683,  and  was  the  site  of  Hinsdale’s  and  Bridgman’s 
Forts.  Throughout  the  early  border- wars  it  was  the  scene  of  numerous  attacks 
and  skirmishes,  but  was  boldly  held  as  the  outpost  of  colonial  civilization.  Hins- 
dale is  now  a prosperous  town,  through  which  the  Ashuelot  River  flows  to  the 
Connecticut.  From  Mine  Mt.,  a few  years  ago,  volcanic  signs  were  seen,  and  a 
lava-like  substance  was  thrown  out.  An  ancient  Indian  fort  is  situated  on  a hill 
near  the  river,  and  isolated  from  the  plateau  by  a deep,  broad  trench.  Winchester 
was  granted  by,  and  settled  from,  Mass,  in  1733,  under  the  name  of  Arlington,  and 
was  totally  destroyed  by  an  Indian  attack  in  1745.  Swanzey  is  a large  and  thinly 
populated  town,  settled  under  the  same  circumstances,  and  destroyed  at  the  same 
time  as  Winchester. 

At  S.  Vernon  the  Conn.  River  Railroad  from  Springfield  terminates. 

From  S.  Vernon  tlie  New  London  Northern  track  runs  N.  about  9 M. 
through  the  town  of  Vernon  (seats  on  the  r.  side  of  the  car  command  a 
view  of  the  fertile  intervales  of  the  Connecticut,  and  of  the  river  itself). 
This  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  of  Vermont,  and  scores  of  its  early  set- 


NE'.V  LONDON  TO  VERMONT.  Route  12.  103 


tiers  were  killed  by  the  hostile  Indians.  The  next  station  is  Brattleboro’, 
120  M.  from  New  London. 

Hotels.  —Brooks  House,  the  best  in  Vermont,  accommodating  175  - 200  guests, 
$3-3.50  a day;  Brattleboro ’ House  (near  the  station),  $2-2.50  a day;  Revere 
House;  the  Park  House  (near  the  Park),  and  the  Wesselhoeft  House  (founded  in 
1845  by  a German  water-cure  physician)  are  large  hotels  for  summer  visitors. 

In  1724  the  Legislature  of  Mass,  had  a fort  built  near  the  river  and  about  1 M. 
S.  of  the  present  village.  This  fort,  called  Fort  Dummer,  was  garrisoned  by 
troops  of  the  colony  and  friendly  Indians,  and  served  as  a shield  for  the  river- 
towns.  Though  often  attacked,  it  was  never  lost.  The  first  settlement  in  the 
State  was  located  here  under  the  protection  of  the  fort,  and  but  two  or  three 
small  villages  were  established  in  the  S.  part  until  the  conquest  of  Canada,  after 
which,  from  1760  to  1768,  138  townships  were  granted  in  Vermont.  In  1753,  the 
village  near  Fort  Dummer  was  named  Brattleborough,  in  honor  of  Col.  Brattle,  a 
distinguished  Bostonian,  who  was  one  of  its  proprietors. 

Brattleboro’  is  a large  village  well  and  compactly  built,  at  the  junction 
of  Whetstone  Brook  (which  affords  a considerable  water-power)  with  the 
Connecticut.  The  location  of  the  village  is  beautiful,  being  on  an  uneven 
plateau  above  the  great  river,  and  surrounded  by  lofty  hills.  Main  St., 
the  principal  thoroughfare,  is  near  and  parallel  to  the  river,  and  100  ft. 
above  it.  The  Brook,  with  its  numerous  factories,  is  near  the  station,  in 
the  S.  of  the  village.  A beautiful  view  of  Brattleboro’  and  its  mountain- 
ampitheatre  is  enjoyed  from  Cemetery  Hill,  an  eminence  just  S.  of  the 
town.  The  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  filled  by  the  dark  and  frowning 
masses  of  Mine  and  Wantastiquet  Mts.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  village  is  a 
pretty  park,  on  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  whence  a charming  view  of  the 
mountains  is  gained,  while  the  placid  river  is  seen  gliding  between  its 
broad  and  fertile  intervales.  Below  the  park,  in  the  valley,  is  the  Ver- 
mont Asylum  for  the  Insane,  a well-conducted  institution,  connected  with 
which  is  a farm  of  600  acres,  which  is  carried  on  by  the  finmates  of  the 
Asylum.  From  various  points  (back  of  St.  Michael’s  Church,  &c. ) on  the 
, riverward  side  of  the  plateau,  pretty  views  of  the  river  and  Wantastiquet 
Mt.  are  obtained. 

Daniel  Webster  was  a frequent  visitor  to  Brattleboro’,  and  at  present  it  is  the 
home  of  Holbrook,  the  War-Governor  of  Vermont,  and  Gen.  J.  W.  Phelps,  a vet- 
eran of  the  Mexican  and  Secession  Wars,  who  first  enlisted  and  disciplined  ne- 
groes in  the  armies  of  the  Union.  Among  those  born  here  were  Wilbur  Fisk, 
i the  Methodist  divine,  who  twice  refused  a bishopric,  and  was  President  of  Mid- 
dletown University,  1830-89;  R.  M.  Hunt,  the  architect;  W.  M.  Hunt,  the 
painter  of  genre  pictures  ; and  Larkin  G.  Mead,  the  sculptor,  who,  while  yet  a 
mere  lad,  worked  one  long  winter  night  on  a snow-figure  at  the  head  of  Main  St.  ; 
and  on  the  next  morning  (New  Year’s)  the  citizens  were  startled  to  see  there  a 
I statue  of  the  “ Recording  Angel”  modelled  in  purest  snow.  From  that  time  his 
success  has  been  of  rapid  growth,  and  now  for  several  years  he  has  lived  and 
! worked  in  Italy. 

In  W.  Brattleboro’  (Glen  House,  Vermont  House)  is  the  Glenwood  Seminary,  in 
a romantic  site  (stages  three  times  daily). 

A bridge  crosses  the  river  here,  and  a road  runs  into  hilly  Hinsdale,  N.  of  which 
is  the  picturesque  town  of  Chesterfield  (N.  H.),  from  whose  level  uplands  much 
corn  and  hay  is  obtained  by  unwearied  labor.  Spofford’s  Lake,  in  Chesterfield 
(10-12  M.  from  Brattleboro’),  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water  8 M.  around,  said  by 
Howells  to  possess  natural  charms  equal  to  those  of  the  Italian  lakes.  On  an 
island  in  its  waters  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  Indian  settlement. 


104  Route  13. 


NORWICH  TO  NASHUA. 


Brattleboro’  is  the  centre  of  a great  net-work  of  stage-lines.  Daily  stages  run 
to  Guilford  (7-10  M.) ; to  Newfane  (12  M.),  the  county-seat ; to  Townshend  (17 
M.).  Tri-weekly  lines  run  to  Dover  (17  M.)  and  Wardsboro’  (24  M.).  More  extended 
routes  are  those  to  Shelburne  Falls  (Mass.)  via  Halifax  (cascades  on  North  River, 
and  Dun’s  Den,  25  ft.  long,  5 ft.  wide  and  high,  in  solid  rock)  in  27  M.  ; to  Shel- 
bum  Falls  (45  M.)  via  Whitingham,  in  which  are  the  Sadawga  Springs,  with  a 
hotel,  near  Sadawga  Lake,  in  whose  vicinity,  in  a poor  log-hut,  the  heresiarch 
Brigham  Young  was  born  in  1801.  Since  1844  he  has  been  prophet  and  president 
of  the  Mormons,  who  moved  (1846-7),  under  his  guidance,  from  Nauvoo  into  the 
Western  wilderness,  and  founded  the  flourishing  colony  of  Deseret  on  the  shores 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  of  Utah  ; to  Greenfield  (32  M.)  via  Halifax ; to  N.  Adams 
via  Whitingham  (45  M.)  ; to  Bennington  via  Wilmington,  (40  M.),  passing  through 
the  thinly  settled  mountain  towns  of  Marlboro,’ Wilmington,  Searsburg,  and  Wood- 
ford ; to  Bennington  via  Somerset  (50  M.) ; to  Arlington  via  Stratton  (page  185) 
in  46  M. ; to  Manchester  via  Jamaica  in  45  M.  Direct  connections  (in  time)  are 
not  made  on  all  these  lines. 

From  Brattleboro’  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad  runs  N.  to  Montreal,  Quebec, 
and  upper  Vermont  (Route  26). 


13.  Norwich  to  Nashua. 

Via  Norwich  and  Worcester,  and  Worcester  and  Nashua  Railroads.  Distance, 
106  M.,  fare,  $3.55. 

Norwich  to  Putnam,  see  Route  19.  Station,  Thompson  (good  hotel),  a 
pretty  village  1 M.  from  the  station,  much  resorted  to  in  summer,  and 
abounding  in  neat  villas.  Stations,  Grosvenordale,  N.  Grosvenordale, 
Wilsondale,  after  which  the  train  crosses  to  Webster,  in  Mass.  (Joslin 
House , Sheldon  House).  In  this  vicinity  is  a great,  island-studded -pond, 
which  enjoys  two  names,  — Chabonakongkomon  and  Chargoggagoggman- 
choggagogg.  About  this  lake  were  the  Elysian  Fields  of  the  Nipmuck 
Indians  and  the  reputed  home  of  the  Great  Spirit.  A small  community 
of  the  Nipmucks  still  remains  here,  supported  by  the  bounty  of  the  State. 
Both  at  Webster  and  N.  Webster  are  large  manufactories.  Station,  Ox- 
ford, a pretty  village,  on  the  Indian  lands  called  Mancharge.  2 M.  S.  E. 
of  the  station  is  Fort  Hill,  bearing  the  remains  of  a bastioned  fort  built 
by  a community  of  French  Huguenots  who  settled  here  in  1683.  13 

years  later,  an  Indian  irruption  so  alarmed  them  that  they  abandoned 
the  place,  and  lived  in  Boston  for  many  years.  Oxford  Centre  has  large 
shoe  manufactories,  and  several  cotton  and  woollen  mills  are  in  the  town. 
Station,  Auburn,  then  Worcester  Junction,  and  Worcester,  where  the 
passenger  for  Nashua  changes  cars. 

Connections  are  also  made  at  this  point  with  the  Worcester  and  Fitchburg  R. 
R.,  and  with  trains  for  Boston  and  Lowell.  Passengers  for  Springfield  and  Al- 
bany, or  Providence,  should  change  cars  at  Worcester  Junction. 

Stations,  W.  Boylston,  Oakdale  (Oakdale  House).  The  line  runs  N. 
through 

“ Rich  and  rural  Worcester,  where  through  the  calm  repose 
Of  cultured  vales  and  fringing  woods  the  gentle  Nashua  flows.” 

From  Sterling  Junction  the  Worcester  and  Fitchburg  track  runs  off  to 
Fitchburg  (14  M.). 


NORWICH  TO  NASHUA. 


Route  13.  105 


After  passing  the  Wanshaccum  Ponds  on  the  1.  and  the  Clinton  Ponds 
on  each  side  of  the  track,  the  busy  manufacturing  town  of  Clinton  (Clin- 
ton House)  is  reached,  where  the  line  is  crossed  by  the  Boston,  Clinton, 
and  Fitchburg  R.  R.  Stations,  S.  Lancaster,  and  Lancaster  (Lancaster 
House),  an  old  and  pleasant  village,  near  which  is  the  State  Industrial 
School  for  Girls.  The  village  was  attacked  in  1676,  by  5 bodies  of  In- 
dians. 42  of  the  people  took  shelter  in  Rev.  Mr.  Rowlandson’s  house, 
which  was  set  on  fire  after  a two  hours’  siege,  and  22  of  its  defenders 
were  killed,  the  other  20  being  made  prisoners.  Stations,  Still  River,  and 
Harvard  ( Harvard  Hotel),,  a picturesque  highland  village,  near  a lake 
which  is  3 M.  around,  and  N.  of  which  are  the  deep  and  sequestered  Hell 
Pond  and  Robbins  Pond.  A considerable  Shaker  community  is  settled 
ia  the  N.  E.  part  of  the  town.  Harvard  Centre  is  2 M.  E.  from  the  sta- 
tion (stages  run  frequently). 

Groton  Junction  (see  Route  25).  The  next  station  is  Groton  Centre, 
a pretty  village  in  a country  of  hills  and  lakes.  It  was  attacked  in  1676, 
by  the  Sachem  Monoco  at  the  head  of  400  Indians,  and  40  houses  and  the 
church  were  burnt,  though  the  people  repulsed  all  attacks  from  their  ref- 
uge in  4 garrison-houses.  This  same  sachem  boasted  to  the  besieged  that 
he  was  marching  on  Concord  and  Boston,  to  destroy  those  towns.  With- 
in a year  he  was  indeed  in  Boston,  but  as  a captive,  led  through  the 
streets  with  a rope  around  his  neck,  and  afterwards  hung  on  the  Com- 
mon. Hon.  G.  S.  Boutwell,  Gov.  of  Mass.,  1851-3,  and  Secretary  of 
the  U.  S.  Treasury,  1869-73,  was  for  many  years  a merchant  in  this 
town.  Groton  is  the  seat  of  Lawrence  Academy. 

Station,  Pepperell  ( Prescott  House  ; the  village  is  across  the  Nashua 
River,  W.  of  the  station),  a town  named  after  Sir  Wm.  Pepperell,  the 
first  New  England  baronet,  by  its  first  pastor,  who  was  a chaplain  in  his 
Louisburg  expedition.  S.  W.  of  the  village  is  the  curious  hill  called 
“The  Throne,”  while  to  the  N.  are  the  picturesque  Hills  of  Missitisset. 
This  is  a quiet  village  with  an  old  church,  whose  bell,  according  to  an  old 
New  England  custom,  tolls  out  the  number  of  the  letters  in  the  name, 
and  of  years  in  the  age,  of  each  villager  when  he  or  she  dies. 

In  the  graveyard  near  by  is  a pretty  marble  monument  from  Italy.  Otherwise 
the  cemetery  illustrates  Beecher’s  words  concerning  the  New  England  theory, 
“ The  dead  are  utterly  gone.  God  has  them  in  another  world.  Their  state  is  fixed 
and  unalterable.  So  thinking,  it  seems  of  but  little  worth  to  garnish  their  sleep- 
ing-places.” The  old  Prescott  mansion  is  on  a broad  domain  M.  from  the  vil- 
lage. This  was  founded  by  Col.  Wm.  Prescott,  who  led  the  Middlesex  minute- 
men  to  Cambridge,  and  commanded  the  Americans  at  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill, 
where  the  Pepperell  Co.  lost  16  men.  He  left  the  redoubt  within  push  of  bay- 
onet of  the  British,  warding  off  their  thrusts  by  his  flashing  sword.  His  son. 
Judge  Wm.,  succeeded  to  the  estate,  and  from  him  it  was  inherited  by  his  son, 
Wm.  Hickling  Prescott,  who  here  wrote  a great  part  of  his  noble  historical  works. 
His  son  now  owns  the  estate. 

Soon  after  leaving  Pepperell  the  line  enters  the  State  of  New  Hamp- 
5* 


106  Route  U.  SAYBROOK  TO  HARTFORD. 


shire.  Station,  Hollis,  3 M.  S.  E.  of  the  village  of  that  name  (stages 
to  all  trains)  which  gave  250  men  to  the  Continental  Armies.  Soon  after 
the  train  enters  the  city  of  Nashua  (see  Route  26). 

14.  Saybrook  to  Hartford. 

Via  Connecticut  Valley  R.  R.  in  44  M.  Fare,  $1.50.  This  route  follows  the 
W.  bank  of  the  Conn.  River,  and  a seat  on  the  r.  side  of  the  car  affords  pleasing 
views  of  the  river  and  the  villages  on  its  shores. 

For  Saybrook  Point  see  Route  8.  After  leaving  Saybrook  and  crossing 
the  Shore  Line  R.  R.  (Route  8),  at  the  Junction,  the  line  runs  N.  W. 
through  the  old  limits  of  Saybrook,  with  the  river  close  at  hand.  The 
soil  of  this  town  is  enriched  by  piling  thereon  great  quantities  of  white- 
fish,  which  are  caught  off  its  shores,  and  sold  for  a trifling  sum  per  thou- 
sand. Stations,  Essex,  Deep  River,  S.  Chester,  Chester  (rich  farming 
country,  with  an  Episcopal  academy  dating  from  1792),  Goodspeed’s  (vil- 
lage across  the  river),  Arnold’s  (near  which  the  village  of  E.  Haddam  is 
seen  on  the  E.  bank),  and  Haddam.  Near  Arnold’s,  the  mouth  of  Sal- 
mon River  is  seen  on  the  E.  bank,  and  30  Mile,  or  Lord’s  Island  divides 
the  Connecticut  some  distance  above.  The  ancient  territory  of  the 
“ fierce  and  warlike  ” Wongung  Indians  embraced  Haddam  and  E.  Had- 
dam. They  parted  with  their  birthright  for  30  coats,  and  the  land  was 
settled  by  people  from  Hartford.  Quarries  of  some  importance  have  been 
worked  here,  and  the  annual  catch  of  shad  is  considerable.  Stations, 
Walkley  Hill,  Higganum  (a  thriving  river-landing  and  ferry),  Maromas, 
and  Middletown. 

Middletown  (*  McDonough  House , 150  guests),  “ the  Forest  City,”  is  a 
beautiful  academic  city,  built  on  ground  gently  rising  from  the  river  at 
the  bottom  of  a great  bend.  Its  maritime  interests  are  along  the  wharves 
which  run  out  from  Water  St. ; the  seat  of  trade  and  of  the  hotels  is  on 
Main  St. ; while  High  St.  is  above  all,  and  is  lined  with  fine  houses  and 
carefully  kept  gardens.  The  Custom  House  and  Court  House  (of  Middle- 
sex Co.)  are  plain  stone  buildings,  and  there  are  several  handsome  churches 
in  the  city.  The  manufactures  include  pumps,  webbing,  and  tape  ($  600,000 
a year),  rules  and  chisels,  sewing-machines,  and  several  companies  make 
britannia  and  silver-plated  ware.  The  safe  and  convenient  harbor  (10  ft. 
of  water  at  the  wharves)  renders  this  the  last  port  on  the  river  for  heavy 
vessels. 

The  campus  of  Wesleyan  University  fronts  on  High  St.  (which,  with 
its  double  lines  of  stately  trees,  Charles  Dickens  called  the  finest  rural 
street  he  had  ever  seen).  The  University  appertains  to  the  Methodist 
sect,  and  sustains  a high  reputation.  In  the  work  of  the  intellectual  up- 
lifting of  the  Methodist  clergy  it  has  borne  a prominent  part.  Besides 
the  old  buildings  in  the  usual  Novanglian  style,  there  are  three  fine  new 


SAYBROOIC  TO  HARTFORD.  Route  1$.  107 


edifices  of  Portland  sandstone.  Eicli  Hall  contains  the  library  of  about 
20,000  volumes.  Judd  Hall  (the  gift  of  Orange  Judd,  the  agriculturalist) 
is  a finely  finished  building,  containing  admirable  natural-history  collec- 
tions. Some  of  these  cabinets  are  unexcelled  in  America,  having  been 
collected  and  arranged  by  scientists  who  have  spent  years  in  special 
studies.  Casts  of  skeletons  and  parts  of  colossal  animals  whose  species 
have  long  been  extinct  are  arranged  here.  The  Memorial  Chapel  is  a 
fine  work  of  architecture.  Its  lower  room  is  used  for  daily  college 
prayers,  while  above  is  the  church  proper,  with  memorial  windows  which 
cost  § 700  each. 

That  on  tlic  left  is  in  honor  of  the  past  students  who  died  as  soldiers  of  the 
Union,  and  bears  the  inscriptions,  “ The  beauty  of  Israel  is  slain  upon  her  high 
places”;  “It  is  sweet  and  fitting  to  die  for  one’s  fatherland,”  in  the  Latin  of 
Horace;  “The  earth  is  a grave  of  heroes,”  in  the  Greek  of  Homer.  Under  the 
symbolic  figure  of  a pelican  are  the  names  of  the  slain.  The  Wesleyan  Guard 
(Co.  G.,  4th  Conn.  Reg.)  went  from  the  University,  On  the  r.  opposite  is  a win- 
dow bearing  portraits  of  four  presidents  of  the  University  : Wilbur  Fisk,  D.  D. 
(1830-  39)  ; Stephen  Olin,  D.  D.,  author  of  “Travels  in  the  East,”  &c.  (1842-51) ; 
Nathan  Bangs,  D.  D.,  an  itinerant  minister,  1801-20,  agent  and  editor  of  the 
Book  Concern,  1820-36,  and  afterwards  President  of  the  University ; anjl  A.  W. 
Smith,  LL.  D.,  a prominent  mathematician.  In  1871,  the  University  had  10  in- 
structors and  153  students. 

The  * view  from  the  tower  of  the  old  chapel  is  delightful,  embracing 
the  bay-like  river  and  its  riparian  hills,  the  city  below,  and  the  busy  quar- 
ries at  Portland,  the  long  and  imposing  buildings  of  the  Insane  Asylum 
on  a hill  in  the  S.,  the  Industrial  School,  and  the  rolling  hills  to  the  W. 
On  this  hill  was  the  far-viewing  fortress  of  Mattabesick,  the  aboriginal 
chief  Sowheag,  and  around  its  base  the  Massachusetts  immigrants  settled 
in  1653.  Brissot  de  Warville,  a French  tourist  (in  1788),  asserted  that 
“ from  the  hill  over  Middletown  is  one  of  the  finest  and  richest  prospects 
in  America.”  The  villas  and  gardens  of  High  St.  extend  on  each  side  of 
the  campus,  and  not  far  from  it  is  the  Indian  Hill  Cemetery,  with  a hand- 
some sepulchral  chapel  at  the  entrance,  and  fine  views  from  its  hills  over 
leagues  of  farm-studded  valleys.  Here  is  buried  Gen.  J.  K.  F.  Mans- 
field, who  stormed  Monterey,  was  highly  distinguished  at  Buena  Yista, 
fortified  Washington  City  (1861),  and  was  mortally  wounded  while  leading 
his  corps  at  Antietam.  In  this  vicinity  is  the  Industrial  School  for  Girls, 
a model  institution  with  fine  buildings  surrounded  by  broad  lands,  where 
the  inmates  are  given  three  hours  daily  for  study,  and  do  their  own  work . 

On  a high  hill  1 J M.  S.  E.  of  the  city  are  the  vast  and  imposing  build- 
ings of  the  State  General  Hospital  for  the  Insane.  The  main  building 
is  of  Portland  stone,  and  has  a length  of  768  ft.  with  accommodations  for 
450  patients.  It  stands  on  spacious  grounds  which  cover  230  acres  of  the 
hill,  and  commands  a fine  view  of  the  city  and  the  widenings  of  the  river. 

Farther  down  tlie  river  are  points  often  visited  by  geologists.  Feldspar  is 
found  here  in  such  quantities  as  to  make  it  an  item  of  trade,  as  it  is  used  in  mak- 
ing porcelain.  The  lead  mines  so  actively  worked  during  the  Revolution  have 
long  been  abandoned. 


108  Route  15.  NEW  HAVEN  TO  NORTHAMPTON. 


On  Main  St.  near  the  McDonough  House  is  the  Berkeley  Divinity 
School,  an  Episcopal  institution  under  the  presidency  of  Bishop  Williams. 
It  was  founded  in  1857,  has  graduated  122  men,  and  had,  in  1871,  12  pro- 
fessors and  24  students.  The  chapel  (of  St.  Luke)  is  a small  hut  beauti- 
ful Gothic  structure,  built  of  stone  and  having  very  rich  stained  windows. 
The  students  attend  service  in  robes,  and  their  singing  is  fine.  Near  by 
and  on  Main  St.  is  the  elegant  church  of  the  Holy  Cross  (Episcopal)  built 
of  Portland  stone,  with  a graceful  timber  roof.  The  N.  and  S.  Congrega- 
tional churches  are  fine  buildings,  and  Main  St.  has  three  banks,  built  in 
the  style  of  bank-architecture  peculiar  to  New  England,  — with  one  high, 
solid  story,  of  stone  or  brick.  The  quaint  little  Parthenon  which  is  used 
for  a Court  House  is  on  the  same  street. 

Near  the  N.  end  of  Main  St.  (with  its  large  Roman  Catholic  church)  is  the  pier^of 
the  Portland  ferry.  The  quarries  of  red  sandstone  at  Portland  are  of  continental 
fame,  and  are  situated  near  the  pier  at  the  other  end  of  the  ferry,  whence  also  is 
gained  a fine  view  of  Middletown  and  the  graceful  Air  Line  Railroad  bridge.  The 
first  quarry  approached  is  the  deepest,  and  from  the  sharp  edge  of  the  hill  one  can 
look  down  into  a vast  chasm  from  which  has  been  taken  the  material  for  hun- 
dreds o£fine  buildings,  and  for  fronts  of  long  blocks  in  nearly  every  Atlantic  city. 
The  second  quarry  is  the  largest  and  oldest ; and  beyond  this  is  a third.  These 
works  employ  800  men,  great  numbers  of  draught-animals,  and  40  vessels.  The 
stone  is  easy  to  work,  of  a durable  character,  and  of  a rich  shade  of  brown. 

The  New  Haven,  Middletown,  and  Willimantic  R.  R.,  runs  from  the  former 
city  to  Middletown,  and  here  crosses  the  Connecticut  River  on  a fine  iron  bridge. 
When  the  link  between  Middletown  and  Willimantic  is  completed,  the  Air  Line 
from  Boston  to  New  York  will  run  on  the  rails  of  this  line.  From  New  Haven  to 
Middletown,  23^-  M.,  fare,  85c. 

A branch  track  leaves  the  New  Haven  and  Springfield  Railroad  at  Berlin,  and 
runs  10  M.  S.  E.  to  Middletown. 

The  steamers  between  Hartford  and  New  York  stop  at  this  point,  generally  late 
in  the  afternoon,  and  then  proceed  down  the  river,  from  whose  mouth  Middle- 
town  is  34  M.  distant. 

After  leaving  Middletown  tbe  Conn.  Valley  Railroad  runs  N.  about  15 
M.  passing  through  the  towns  of  Cromwell,  Rocky  Hill,  and  Wethersfield, 
and  enters  the  city  of  Hartford. 


15.  New  Haven  to  Northampton. 

Via  N.  H.  and  N.  R.  R.,  in  84  M. 

This  line  is  often  called  the  Canal  R.  R.,  since  it  follows  the  line  of  the  old 
Farmington  Canal  for  a considerable  distance.  It  runs  through  a quiet  agricul- 
tural country,  and  terminates  near  the  W.  centre  of  Massachusetts,  on  the  line 
of  the  (projected)  Mass.  Central  R.  R.  Shortly  after  its  completion  in  1849  it  was 
leased  by  the  New  York  and  New  Haven  R.  R.  for  20  years,  and  on  the  expiration 
of  that  time  it  reverted  to  the  original  proprietors. 

The  line  passes  West  Rock  soon  after  leaving  New  Haven,  and  enters 
the  valley  of  Mill  River,  which  it  follows  for  nearly  20  M.  The  town  of 
Hamden,  which  is  soon  entered,  is  in  a valley  between  the  W.  Rock  Mts. 
and  the  E.  Rock  Mts.,  two  ranges  which  run  N.  nearly  parallel  until  they 
unite  in  Southington,  and  then  advance  into  Massachusetts.  Mt.  Carmel 
(near  the  station  of  the  same  name)  is  a lofty  spur  from  the  E.  Rock 


NEW  HAVEN  TO  NORTHAMPTON.  Route  15.  109 


Range,  and  is  composed  of  greenstone.  Hamden  is  a quiet  country  town, 
!j  on  fertile  lands.  The  stations,  Cheshire  and  Hitchcock’s,  are  in  the  town 
of  Cheshire,  a picturesque  farming  district,  in  one  of  whose  villages  is 
situated  the  Episcopal  Academy  of  Conn,  (military),  which  dates  from 
1801.  Plantsville  and  Southington  are  in  a town  by  the  latter  name, 
formerly  noted  for  extensive  tin-ware  manufactories,  but  now  depending 
on  iron-works.  Station,  Plain ville,  with  the  Farmington  Canal  on  the 
r.  and  the  Blue  Hills  on  the  1.  At  this  point  the  Hartford,  Providence, 
and  Fishkill  Railroad  crosses  the  present  route.  Station,  Farmington. 
The  village  is  seen  about  J M.  away  in  a beautiful  situation  near  the 
broad,  rich  meadows  of  the  Farmington  River.  A broad  and  shaded 
street  2 M.  long  composes  the  village.  This  fair  and  fertile  valley  was 
i the  Tunxis  of  the  Indians,  who  dwelt  here  in  great  numbers.  Many  of 
their  cemeteries  and  fishing-places  have  been  found.  The  land  was 
bought  from  them  by  immigrants  from  Boston  and  Roxbury,  who  settled 
here  in  1640.  It  was  the  pastor  of  this  village  who  preached  to  the  troops 
| marching  to  Boston  in  1775,  from  the  text,  “Play  the  man  for  your 
country,  and  for  the  cities  of  your  God ; and  the  Lord  do  that  which 
seemeth  him  good.” 

; From  Farmington  a branch  track  runs  to  New  Hartford  (14  M.),  by  the  stations 
Union  ville,  Burlington,  Collinsville,  and  Pine  Meadow.  At  Collinsville  (Valley 
i House,  good)  the  Farmington  River  is  dammed,  and  affords  a great  power  which 
is  used  by  extensive  works  for  the  manufacture  of  axes  and  edged  tools.  The 
business  was  founded  by  Mr.  Collins,  and  now  employs  6 - 700  men  who  with 
their  families,  make  up  a populous  village.  15,000  steel  ploughs  are  sent  out 
J yearly  to  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  200,000  Brazilian  hoes  have  been  made  here 
m one  year.  Vast  numbers  of  Mexican  machetes  are  turned  out,  and  more  axes 
than  at  any  other  factory  m America.  Here,  also,  were  made  the  pikes  for  John 
Brown  s raid  on  Virginia. 

At  Collinsville  the  Conn.  Western  R.  R.  forms  a junction  with  the  branch. 
Beyond  Farmington  is  Avon,  a pretty  village,  where  Silliman  found 
“ remnants  of  primeval  New  England  customs.”  On  the  E.,  Talcott  Mt. 
j is  plainly  seen,  with  a lofty  tower  on  its  top.  (See  Environs  of  Hartford.) 

I Stations,  Weatogue  and  Simsbury,  in  the  town  of  Simsbury,  which  was 
| settled  in  1670  on  the  Indian  lands  of  Massacoe.  During  King  Philip’s 
I War  the  colonists  buried  their  goods  and  fled,  but  the  town  was  destroyed 
by  the  Indians  and  left  so  long  neglected  that  the  wilderness  reclaimed  it, 
and  the  returning  settlers  never  found  their  buried  treasures.  On  a hill 
W.  of  the  track  is  the  principal  village,  ambushed  in  trees.  Just  before 
reaching  Granby,  the  next  station,  the  Farmington  River,  which  has 
followed  the  track  for  15  M.,  turns  sharply  to  the  S.  E.  through  a pass 
in  the  mountain,  and  flows  down  into  the  Connecticut.  Station,  Granby 
(three  small  hotels  in  the  town),  in  a rugged  farming  town.  Here  was 
located  Newgate  Prison  (State  of  Conn. ), — a grim  pile  on  the  top  of  Copper 
Hill,  where  the  prisoners  were  confined  in  the  cavernous  shafts  and  pas- 
; sages  of  a copper-mine,  — abandoned  in  1760.  Some  of  the  convicts  lived 


110  Route  15. 


NEW  HAVEN  TO  NORTHAMPTON. 


60  ft.  below  the  earth’s  surface,  amid  unceasing  darkness.  The  mouth  of 
the  main  shaft  was  covered  by  a massive  stone  building,  and  the  prisoners 
were  guarded  by  20  soldiers.  This  subterranean  labyrinth  served  for  a 
State  Prison  from  1775  to  1827.  The  State  says  that  the  average  mor- 
tality during  that  period  was  less  than  that  in  the  other  American  prisons, 
hut  harsh  stories  went  abroad  about  the  gloomy  caverns  of  Newgate. 

Soon  after  leaving  Granby  the  line  enters  Massachusetts,  and  runs  along 
the  pond  of  Congamuck,  stopping  at  Southwick  (Union  Hotel).  Then 
the  train  descends  on  to  the  plains  of  Westfield,  and,  passing  through  the 
village  (see  Route  22),  crosses  Westfield  River,  and  stops  at  the  station  at 
the  junction  of  the  Boston  and  Albany  Railroad  (Route  22).  Soon  after 
leaving  Westfield  the  train  passes  into  the  valley  of  the  Manliam  River, 
and  stops  at  Southampton,  under  the  shadow  of  high  hills.  After  leaving 
the  latter  place,  the  long  ridge  of  Mt.  Tom  looms  upon  the  r„  while 
Pomeroy’s  Mt.  is  farther  away  on  the  1.  Easthampton  is  now  reached 
(Eyrie  House,  Mansion  House).  This  is  the  seat  of  Williston  Seminary, 
a high  graded  institution  attended  by  180  - 200  students.  This  seminary 
has  been  endowed  with  $ 250,000  by  Hon.  Samuel  Williston,  who  has  also 
given  $ 125,000  to  Amherst  College,  large  sums  to  Mt.  Holyoke  Seminary, 
and  has  3 times  rebuilt  the  Payson  Church  in  Easthampton.  He  began 
business  by  making  buttons  at  home  with  his  wife’s  aid,  after  which  e 
perfected  machinery,  and  erected  a factory.  His  income  m 1864  was 

$ Vulcanized  rubber  and  rubber  thread,  cotton  yam,  suspenders,  buttons  , 
(1200  gross  per  day),  and  other  goods  are  made  here.  i 

( From  Easthampton,  Mt.  Holyoke  is  full  in  sight  to  theE.  After  pass-  , 
ing  near  the  great  bend  of  the  Connecticut  River,  the  tram  enters  iSorth  j 

a"stettol?Ftoen4ce,  where  are  the  extensive  manufactories  of  the  Flor-  j 
ence  Sewing-Machine  Company.  The  works  surround  a quadrangle  and  , 
20  - 22,000  machines  are  turned  out  every  year.  Stations,  Lee  s (wi  l 
large  sewing-silk  factories),  Haydenville  (brass-works),  and  Williamsburg 
(Hampshire  House),  a pretty  village  among  the  hills,  and  at  present  le 
terminus  of  the  line. 

Cummington  is  sometime ^lawy^^and^mirn^^L 

and  who'has  ten  onerf  “hemosTuseful  members  of  Congress  since  bis  election 

11 William  Cullen  Bryant,  bom 

ing  poets  of  America.  His  verses  wei e pub  h itten  while  lie  was  in  his 

and  the  grandly  solemn  poem  of  Thanatopsis  , lawyer  in  W.  Mass.  ; 

18th  year.  For  most  of  the  time  from  1815  to  «25he  which 

hut  in  1826  he  connected  himself  with  the  . „ u gince  4345  has  lived 

he  still  remains.  He  has  made  sever^  tours  of  prose  and  poetry 

S swS tSdenr'he tepnblished  the  best  translation  extant  ot 
the  Iliad  and  the  Odyssey  of  Homer. 


BRIDGEPORT  TO  WINSTED.  Route  16.  Ill 


16.  Bridgeport  to  Winsted. 

Via  Naugatuck  R.  R.  in  62  M.  Fare,  $1.85. 

4 M.  from  Bridgeport  the  train  crosses  the  broad  Housatonic  River. 
At  Naugatuck  Junction  the  rails  of  the  Shore  Line  Railroad  are  left,  and 
the  line  turns  to  the  N.  E.  and  follows  the  Housatonic  as  far  as  Derby. 
The  village  of  Birmingham  ( Basset  House)  is  picturesquely  located  on  a 
| high  headland  at  the  junction  of  the  Housatonic  and  Naugatuck  Rivers. 

Commerce  was  formerly  carried  on  on  a large  scale  from  this  point,  its 
| vessels  running  to  the  West  Indies,  but  manufactures  have  now  taken 
possession  of  Derby.  Great  numbers  of  pins,  tacks,  brads,  corsets,  crin- 
oline, stockings,  and  melodeons  (Sterling’s)  are  made  here.  The  great 
Housatonic  Dam  is  about  f M.  from  the  village  and  affords  an  immense 
water-power.  It  cost  $500,000,  and  was  three  years  in  building,  being 
constructed  of  solid  masonry  in  the  form  of  an  arch,  with  the  convex  sur- 
face turned  toward  the  pressure  of  the  stream.  The  dam  is  600  ft.  long, 
and  has  23  ft.  fall,  and  the  heavy  roaring  of  the  plunging  waters  can  be 
heard  miles  away  at  night. 

Gen.  David  Humphreys  was  born  at  Derby  in  1752.  He  was  Washington’s  aide 
I ?;nd  lono  resided  at  Mount  Vernon,  after  which  he  was  minister  to  Portugal  and 
Spain,  and  commander  of  the  Conn,  militia.  ° 

Isaac  Hull  was  born  here  in  1775.  He  entered  the  navy,  and  in  1800  captured 
foo  Platte’  111 . Hayti.  He  distinguished  himself  in  the  Tripolitan  War,  and  in 
1812,  commanding  the  “Constitution,”  he  escaped  from  a British  squadron  in  hot 
pursuit,  by  warping  his  ship  ahead  during  a calm.  A month  later  he  met  the 
British  frigate  “Guerriere,”  and  captured  her  after  a short,  sharp  action.  Gen 
Wm.  Hull,  born  here,  1753,  was  condemned  to  death  in  1812,  for  surrendering  the 
Army  of  the  Northwest,  at  Detroit,  but  President  Madison  pardoned  him 

An  omnibus  runs  from  Birmingham  to  its  sister-village  of  Ansonia,  passing 
along  breezy  heights  which  afford  fine  views  of  the  Naugatuck  Valley  and  the 
; rural  homes  of  Derby  scattered  on  the  Trans-Naugatuck  hills.  In  the  N.  end  of 
Birmingham  a small  Green  is  passed,  with  a Saxon-towered  Episcopal  Church 
and  near  it  are  churches  of  the  Methodists,  Congregationalists,  and  Catholics. 

A Railroad  runs  from  Ansonia  to  New  Haven  direct. 

Ansonia  ( Ansonia  House),  the  next  station  beyond  Derby,  is  a thriving 
borough  near  the  falls  in  the  Naugatuck.  It  was  founded  in  1838,  and 
has  become  the  seat  of  numerous  rolling-mills  and  foundries,  a large 
hoop-skirt  factory,  and  manufactories  of  clocks,  lightning-rods,  and  brass 
wares.  Some  fine  mansions  are  built  on  the  heights  over  the  river,  and 
from  near  the  tall  stone  church  is  gained  a neat  valley- view,  embracing  a 
great  part  of  the  old  Indian  domain  of  Paugussett. 

At  Seymour,  the  next  station,  is  a small  village  founded  by  Gen. 
Humphrey  in  1810,  for  the  manufacture  of  cotton,  paper,  and  woollen 
goods.  For  the  latter  purpose  he  had  imported  large  flocks  of  Spanish 
I merino  sheep. 

Beacon  Falls  has  a water-power  which  is  used  by  factories  making  a 
; great  number  of  woollen  shawls.  Station,  Naugatuck,  which  is  the 


112  Route  16.  BRIDGEPORT  TO  WINSTED. 


seat  of  the  Goodyear  Glove  (and  Rubber)  Co.,  a Pin  Co.,  and  of  Tuttle’s 
Works,  which  turn  out  400,000  rakes  and  hoes  each  year.  Naugatuck  is 
derived  from  the  Indian  phrase,  Nau-ko-tunk,  meaning  “ one  large  tree,” 
from  a lofty  and  prominent  tree  which  once  stood  on  the  Rock  Rimmon, 
near  the  Falls  Station.  Union  City,  and  Waterbury  (see  Route  11). 

J unction  is  formed  here  with  the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill  Railroad, 
and  also  with  the  Watertown  Branch.  Watertown  (Warren  House),  about  6 M. 
distant,  is  a quiet  village  in  a thinly  settled  and  hilly  farming  town. 

Stations,  Waterville  (where  pen-knives  are  manufactured),  Plymouth, 
(near  which  are  fine  quarries  of  white  granite),  Camp’s  Mills,  and  Litch- 
field. The  beautiful  village  of  Litchfield  (Mansion  House , U.  S.  House) 
is  about  4 M.  from  the  station  (stages  connect  with  trains).  This  is  the 
county  seat  of  Litchfield  County,  and  once  claimed  jurisdiction  to  the 
Mississippi  River. 

The  Royal  Charter  of  Connecticut  in  1664  defined  that  colony  as  “all  that  part 
of  His  Majesty’s  dominions,  in  New  England,  in  America,  bounded  the  E.  by 
Narragansett  Bay,  ...  on  the  N.  by  the  line  of  the  Massachusetts  Plantation, 
and  on  the  S.  by  the  sea.  And  in  longitude  . . . from  said  Narragansett  Bay  on 
E.  to  the  South  Sea  on  the  W.  part,  with  the  islands  thereunto  belonging.”  Sub- 
sequently royal  grants  detached  from  this  vast  belt  parts  of  New  York  and 
Pennsylvania,  although  much  of  the  tract  in  the  latter  State  (including  the  Valley 
of  Wyoming),  was  settled  from  Conn.  At  the  close  of  the  Revolution  the  State 
ceded  this,  her  western  domain,  to  the  Union,  reserving  a tract  on  the  S.  of  Lake 
Erie,  as  wide  as  Conn,  and  120  M.  long,  and  comprising  4,000,000  acres.  Of  this 
land  500,000  acres  (the  “Fire  Lands ”)  were  granted  to  the  towns  which  had  been 
destroyed  during  the  war  (New  London,  Fairfield,  &c.),  and  the  remainder  of  the 
Western  Reserve  was  sold  to  a real-estate  company  for  $1,200,000,  which  sum 
was  carefully  invested  as  the  school  and  church  lund  of  Connecticut. 

The  village  of  Litchfield  is  situated  on  a broad  plateau,  1,100  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  consists  mainly  of  two  broad  and  embowered  streets,  which 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  hotels  and  county  buildings  are 
near  the  intersection  of  these  avenues,  and  front  on  a pretty  Green,  which 
is  adorned  by  a soldiers’  monument.  Beneath  the  words  “ Pro  Patria  ” 
is  a list  of  nearly  60  men  of  Litchfield,  who  died  in  the  armies  of  the 
Union.  2-3  M.  from  the  village,  on  the  S.  W.,  is  Bantam  Lake,  con- 
taining 900  acres,  the  largest  lake  in  the  State,  the  haunt  of  many  fish, 
and  scarcely  yet  invaded  by  the  factories,  which  have  ruined  the  charm 
of  so  many  of  the  New  England  lakes.  Near  North  St.  (to  thel.)  is 
Prospect  Hill,  from  which  a fascinating  * view  is  offered,  embracing  the 
wilderness  of  high  hills  which  surround  the  plateau  and  stretch  away  in 
the  W.  Bantam  Lake  is  seen,  silver-shining  between  its  sinuous  shores, 
about  a mile  distant,  and  the  great  elms  and  old  mansions  of  Litchfield 
are  on  the  plain  above  it.  Near  the  corner  of  North  St.,  with  the  road 
diverging  to  the  hill,  was  the  Beecher  mansion,  which  has  been  moved 
(1872)  to  Spring  Hill  (near  the  end  of  N.  St.),  where  it  forms  a part  of 
Dr.  Buel’s  (private)  asylum  for  the  insane.  On  South  St.  is  the  old  Wol- 
cott Mansion,  built  about  1760,  by  Gov.  Wolcott  (see  Windsor),  and 


BRIDGEPORT  TO  WINSTED.  Route  1G.  113 


where  was  born  Oliver  Wolcott,  an  officer  of  the  Continental  Army,  Secre- 
tary of  the  U.  S.  Treasury  (1795-1800),  Gov.  of  Conn.  (1818-27),  and 
founder  of  the  flourishing  village  of  Wolcottville.  The  leaden  statue  of 
George  III.,  which  stood  on  the  Bowling  Green  in  New  York  City,  was 
brought  to  this  house,  and  melted  into  bullets  by  the  Governor’s  daughters. 
Many  other  solemn  old  colonial  mansions  are  along  the  roads,  and  French 
roofs  have  not  yet  invaded  this  dignified  seclusion.  This  air  of  antiquity, 
together  with  the  balmy,  cool,  and  salubrious  breezes  which  dwell  among 
these  hills,  have  given  Litchfield  a high  place  among  the  restful  and  un- 
fashionable of  the  summer-resorts. 

Considerable  quantities  of  copper  and  nickel  have  been  found  in  the  town  ; but 
the  latter  mineral  is  so  firmly  united  with  other  elements  that  it  will  not  pay  for 
extraction.  In  this  town,  of  3,100  inhabitants,  there  are  10  churches,  of  which 
several  belong  to  the  Episcopal  sect. 

Among  the  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity  is  that  to  Bantam  Lake,  with  its 
umbrageous  groves  (2 -3  M.)  ; to  Mount  Tom,  and  to  the  village  of  Morris,  with 
a quaint  old  country  inn,  unchanged  since  the  colonial  days  (5-G  M.).  From  Mt. 
Tom,  on  a clear  day,  the  Catskill  Mts.  may  be  seen,  and  on  the  E.  the  hills  beyond 
the  Conn.  River. 

Litchfield  was  bought  of  the  colony  of  Conn,  in  1718,  for  about  £ 300,  and  was 
settled  in  1720.  The  village  was  surrounded  by  a palisade,  lest  the  Indians 
should  return  in  force  to  their  ancient  and  favorite  hunting-grounds  of  Bantam. 
In  1784,  Judge  Tapping  Reeve  (who  married  Aaron  Burr’s  sister)  established  a 
Law  School  here,  and  in  1798,  James  Gould,  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Conn., 
joined  him,  and  remained  40  years.  This  was  then  the  most  renowned  law 
school  in  America,  and  474  lawyers  were  educated  here.  -The  first  Young  Ladies’ 
Seminary  in  the  Union  was  established  at  Litchfield.  The  town  has  produced 
many  able  men,  chief  among  whom  are  Beecher  and  Bushnell.  Lyman  Beecher, 
D.  D.,  “ the  father  of  more  brains  than  any  other  man  in  America,”  was  pastor 
here  1810  - 26.  Of  his  many  illustrious  children,  the  most  famous  is 

Henry  Ward  Beeclier,  born  at  Litchfield  in  1813.  He  was  educated 
at  Lane  Seminary  (Cincinnati),  of  which  his  father  was  president.  From  1837  to 
1847  he  was  settled  in  Indiana,  and  in  the  latter  year  he  became  pastor  of  the 
Plymouth  Church,  in  Brooklyn.  This  position  he  has  now  held  for  26  years, 
during  which  time  he  has  won  a world-wide  fame  for  his  oratorical  powers,  be- 
sides building  up  a powerful  church  with  active  auxiliary  branches.  His  vigo- 
rous and  picturesque  style  is  very  effective  and  convincing  ; and  it  may  safely  be 
said  that,  during  the  past  20  years,  he  has  been  the  foremost  of  the  clergy  of 
America. 

Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe,  daughter  of  Lyman  Beecher,  was  born  at  Litch- 
field in  1812,  and  married  Rev.  Calvin  E.  Stowe  in  1832.  In  1852  she  published 
“ Uncle  Tom’s  Cabin,”  an  antislavery  novel,  which  sent  a thrill  throughout  the 
republic  and  the  world.  She  has  since  published  “Dred,”  “ Agnes  of  Sorrento,” 
“ The  Pearl  of  Orr’s  Island,”  and  many  charming  stories  of  New  England  life. 

After  leaving  Litchfield  the  train  stops  at  Wolcottville  (founded  by 
Gov.  Wolcott  in  1802),  the  seat  of  large  woollen-mills,  brass-works,  and 
manufactories  of  plated  goods.  In  this  town,  John  Brown,  of  Ossawa- 
tomie,  the  invader  of  Virginia,  was  born  in  1800.  Station,  Burrville, 
after  which  the  train  reaches 

Winsted  (Clarke  House,  $ 2 ; Beardsley  House),  a long,  narrow  vil- 
lage between  steep  hills  on  the  line  of  Mad  River.  Iron  and  steel  works 
abound  here;  pins,  scythes,  hoes,  clocks,  and  other  articles  are  also 
made.  Some  distance  above  the  village,  on  a high  plateau,  is  Long  Lake, 

H 


114  Route  17.  BRIDGEPORT  TO  THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


which  contains  1,500  acres,  and  is  nearly  4 M.  long.  The  waters  rush 
turbulently  through  a narrow  channel  at  its  end,  and  form  the  impetu- 
ous Mad  River,  which  descends  200  ft.  in  2 M. 

At  Winsted  the  Naugatuck  R.  R.  forms  a junction  with  the  Conn.  Western  R. 
R.  running  from  Hartford  to  Millerton  on  the  Harlem  R.  R.  (Route  20). 

17.  Bridgeport  to  the  Berkshire  Hills. 

Via  the  Housatonic  R.  R.  in  110  M.  (to  Pittsfield).  Fare,  $3.30. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Bridgeport  (on  Route  8)  the  line  enters  the  valley 
of  the  Pequanock,  which  it  follows  for  15  M.  through  a thinly  settled 
country  abounding  in  low  hills.  Stations,  Stepney,  Botsford,  and  New- 
town, the  latter  being  a village  about  | M.  from  the  R.  R.,  situated  on  a 
high  hill  in  the  midst  of  Newtown,  the  Patatuck  of  the  aborigines.  It 
is  here,  according  to  Beecher,  that  “the  hills  first  begin  to  show  moun- 
tainous symptoms.”  At  Hawleyville  the  Shepaug  Valley  R.  R.  comes  in 
from  Litchfield  (see  Route  16),  and  at  Brookfield  Junction  a short  rail- 
road runs  S.  W.  to  Danbury  (see  Route  18).  Station,  Brookfield,  beyond 
which  the  track  approaches  and  crosses  the  Housatonic  River,  and  stops 
at  New  Milford  (New  Milford  House).  This  is  a fine  village  near  the 
junction  of  the  Housatonic  and  Aspetuck  Rivers,  with  a wide,  verdant 
common,  and  well-shaded  streets.  A silver-mine  was  worked  here  in 
1790,  and  much  marble  and  slate  has  been  quarried  in  the  hills.  At  pres- 
ent, factories  for  making  buttons,  boots,  hats,  and  twine  sustain  the 
place,  which  is  furthermore  one  of  the  centres  of  the  tobacco  trade  in  the 
valley.  Stations,  Merwinsville,  and  Kent  (restaurant  in  the  station  ; 
Kent  Plains  Hotel).  This  sweet  valley  was  the  home  of  the  Scaghticoke 
Indians,  and  here  the  Moravians  founded  a mission.  The  cause  which 
more  than  any  other  forced  the  Christian  tribes  of  New  England  to  lose 
their  identity  by  miscegenation  operated  in  full  strength  here.  100  men 
of  this  tribe  joined  the  Continental  Army,  and  but  few  of  them  ever  re- 
turned. So  several  negroes  and  a few  poor  whites  joined  the  community  ; 
and  from  the  combination  arose  the  present  representatives  of  the  tribe, 
who  plough  and  plant,  wear  pants  and  go  to  church,  and  otherwise  are 
such  Indians  as  Massasoit  never  dreamed  of.  President  Woolsey,  of 
Yale  College,  has  spent  much  time  with  this  fragment  of  the  Scaghti- 
cokes.  On  a lofty  plain  W.  of  Kent  (ascended  by  a long  and  arduous 
road)  are  the  Spectacle  Ponds , — two  lakes  surrounded  by  forests  and 
connected  by  a short  strait.  From  the  round  hill  above  the  N.  Pond  the 
fittingness  of  the  name  is  clear.  It  is  said  that  a noble  view  opens  to 
the  W.  from  this  summit,  including  the  Mts.  of  Sharon  and  Cornwall, 
the  Hudson  Highlands,  and  the  Catskills,  60  M.  away.  (When  the  editor 
made  this  ascent,  in  May,  1872,  the  remoter  mts.  were  veiled  by  blue 


S.  NORWALK  TO  DANBURY.  Route  18.  115 


heat-mist. ) The  next  two  stations  are  in  Cornwall,  which  town  was  sold 
in  1738  for  $ 1,500  (46  square  M.),  and  settled  in  the  same  year.  It  is  in 
a double  sense  the  roughest  township  in  the  county.  S.  Cornwall  is  sit- 
uated in  a deep  valley,  and  here  a Foreign  Mission  School  was  founded  in 
1810.  In  1820  there  were  19  Indians  and  6 Pacific-Islanders  studying  at 
the  school,  and  here,  in  1818,  died  Obookiah,  the  gifted  Hawaiian. 

Daily  stages  run  from  Cornwall  Bridge  to  Litchfield  and  Sharon,  and  from  Yf. 
Cornwall  to  Goshen  and  the  villages  of  Cornwall. 

Goshen  is  a lofty  town,  in  which  are  5 ponds,  and  Ivy  Mt.  (the  highest  in  the 
State).  It  is  distinguished  for  the  rich  English  dairy  cheese  (a  staple  of  Litch- 
field County)  which  it  produces.  Here,  in  1800,  was  born  Daniel  S.  Dickinson,  an 
eminent  jurist,  and  senator  from  New  York. 

The  train  now  runs  along  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Housatonic  with  the 
ridge  of  Sharon  on  the  W.  Just  beyond  that  ridge,  and  extending  thence 
to  the  N.  Y.  line,  is  a rich  and  fertile  valley. 

Station,  Falls  Village  (Dudley  House  ; and  a snug  country  inn  in  the 
glen  over  the  river).  The  Great  Falls  of  the  Housatonic  are  near  the 
village,  and  form  a fine  sight,  the  river  plunging  over  rocky  ledges  for  60 
ft.,  with  a tremendous  roaring.  A near  scrutiny  of  the  Falls  is  unad- 
visable,  as  its  vicinity  is  crowded  with  squalid  Irish  shanties,  while  the 
R.  R.  repair-shops  are  situated  above  them  on  the  site  of  the  Ames 
foundries,  which  produced  some  of  the  heaviest  iron  fortress-cannon  dur- 
ing the  War  of  1861  - 65.  When  President  Dwight  wrote  so  enthusiasti- 
cally of  these  Falls  (about  1800)  they  were  surrounded  by  the  fitting 
adjuncts  of  a great  primeval  forest.  2-3  M.  N.  W.  of  the  village  is 
Mt.  Prospect , whose  cleared  summit  is  gained  by  a rude  wood-road,  and 
affords  a view  of  the  broad  valley  of  the  Housatonic.  At  the  foot  of 
Prospect  is  a remarkable  group  of  rocks,  the  darkest,  deepest  nook  of 
which  is  called  the  Wolf’s  Den.  W.  of  the  village  is  the  far-viewing 
Gallows  Hill,  where,  according  to  the  tradition,  the  corpse  of  a negro  was 
once  found  hanging  from  a tree,  and  no  one  ever  knew  how  he  came  there, 
or  who  he  was. 

Daily  stages  to  Salisbury  and  Lime  Rock.  Station,  Canaan  (two 
country  hotels),  a small  village  situated  on  the  upper  edge  of  the  valley 
of  the  Blackberry  River,  with  the  great,  ridgy  mass  of  Canaan  Mt.  on 
the  S. 

The  Conn.  Western  R.  It.  crosses  the  present  route  at  Canaan,  and  runs  W. 
through  the  rare  scenery  of  Salisbury  (see  Route  20).  At  the  next  station 
(Ashley  Falls),  the  line  enters  the  County  of  Berkshire  and  State  of  Massachu- 
setts. For  the  remaining  35  M.  of  this  railroad  line  seethe  “Berkshire  Hills” 
(Route  23). 

18.  S.  Norwalk  to  Danbury. 

Via  Danbury  and  Norwalk  R.  R.  in  24  M.  Fare,  90c.  Stations,  Nor- 
walk, Winnepauk , Kent,  Wilton , Cannon's,  Georgetown , Ridgefield. 


116  Route  18.  S.  NORWALK  TO  DANBURY. 


The  latter  village  is  3 M.  from  the  station,  on  a branch  track,  and  is 
situated  on  a lofty  ridge,  called  by  the  Indians  Caudatowa. 

During  Tryon’s  raid  into  the  State  (May,  1777),  the  militia  withstood  the  Hes- 
sians behind  a barricade  in  Ridgefield.  It  cost  Tryon  170  men  to  take  the  frail 
defence,  but  Gen.  Wooster,  the  American  leader,  was  mortally  wounded.  S.  G. 
Goodrich  was  born  here  in  1793.  He  wrote  170  books,  most  of  .which  were  under 
the  name  of  “Peter  Parley.”  His  works  attained  the  enormous  sale  of  over 
7,000,000  volumes.  His  brother.  Rev.  C.  A.  Goodrich,  and  his  son,  F.  B.  Good- 
rich (“  Dick  Tinto  ”),  have  also  won  fame  as  authors. 

Station,  Reading , where  Putnam’s  rude  eloquence  quelled  the  revolt  of 
the  Conn,  line  (1779).  Joel  Barlow,  born  here  in  1755,  some  time  minister 
to  France,  was  author  of  a fine,  but  forgotten  epic,  the  “ Columbiad.” 
In  1783  - 86,  he  was  one  of  the  authors  of  the  “ Anarchiad,”  in  connec- 
tion with  David  Humphreys,  J onathan  Trumbull,  and  Timothy  Dwight, 
concerning  which  transatlantic  critics  wrote  the  pasquinade  beginning, 

“ David  and  Jonathan.  Joel  and  Timothy, 

Over  the  ocean  set  up  the  hymn  of  the  — ” 

Crossing  Bethel  (junction  of  the  Shepaug  Valley  R.  R.),  the  train  en- 
ters Danbury  (Wooster  House,  Turner  House). 

Banbury  was  “ankle-deep  in  pork-fat”  in  May,  1777,  when  Tryon’s  Hessians 
had  destroyed  the  army  supplies  collected  here.  It  is  said  that,  as  the  raiders 
were  advancing  up  a hill  near  by,  a reckless  farmer  rode  to  its  crest  and  shouted, 
“Halt,  the  whole  universe,  break  off  by  kingdoms  ! ” Alarmed  at  such  a formi- 
dable force,  the  Hessians  halted,  threw  out  artillery  to  the  front,  and  deployed  a 
line  of  skirmishers.  In  1764  Robert  Sandeman  came  to  Danbury  (where  he  died 
in  1771),  and  founded  a sect  on  the  dogma  that  “faith  is  a bare  belief  in  a bare 
truth.”  In  1870  there  were  20  members  of  this  church  in  the  U.  S.,  and  they  were 
divided  into  2 sects. 

The  first  American  hat-factory  was  started  here  in  1780,  when  Zadoc 
Benedict,  with  3 men,  made  3 hats  a day.  Now  there  are  10  companies 
in  the  business,  with  $500,000  capital,  4 of  which  make  216,000  hats  a 
year.  The  Danbury  Shirt  Co.  turns  out  230,000  shirts  each  year,  and 
many  Bartram  and  Fenton  sewing-machines  are  made  here.  The  borough 
has  about  10,000  inhabitants,  9 churches,  4 banks,  a public  library,  the 
county  buildings,  and  a great  school,  of  which  Danbury  is  justly  proud. 
Main  St.  is  1J  M.  long,  and  from  Deer  Hill  a neat  view  of  the  town  is 
gained.  Lake  Kenosha  (2  M. ) is  a favorite  resort,  and  is  a pretty  lake, 
with  good  boating  and  fishing.  Powerful  water-works  supply  the 
borough. 

Near  Danbury  is  a pretty  cemetery  of  100  acres,  containing  a monu- 
ment 40  ft.  high,  erected  by  the  Masons  of  Conn,  to  Gen.  Wooster.  He 
founded  the  first  lodge  in  the  State  (Hiram,  of  New  Haven),  and  was  shot 
at  the  Ridgefield  fight.  A monument  is  raised  to  67  soldiers  (in  the  Se- 
cession War)  of  Danbury,  who  are  buried  elsewhere. 

“ They  sleep  their  last  sleep.  No  sound  shall  awake  them 

They  have  fought  their  last  battle,  To  glory  again.” 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  10.  117 


19.  Boston  to  New  York. 

New  York  and  New  England  Railroad  to  Norwich,  connecting  at  New  London 
with  the  Norwich  line  of  steamers. 

The  train  leaves  the  terminal  station  at  the  foot  of  Summer  St.  (PI.  39), 
running  across  the  flats  on  the  W.  of  Boston  Harbor,  then  through  S. 
Boston  and  over  the  S.  Bay.  It  then  passes  through  the  rural  district  of 
Dorchester,  so  lately  annexed  to  Boston,  and  crosses  the  Neponset  River 
several  times  near  the  suburban  stations  of  Mattapan  and  Hyde  Park. 
Near  Readville  it  crosses  the  Boston  and  Providence  line,  and  then  stops 
at  Dedham  station,  N.  of  which  is  the  large  and  prosperous  village  which 
contains  the  handsome  Court  House  of  Norfolk  County.  Near  Dedham 
are  several  factories  on  the  water-power  afforded  by  Mother  Brook,  which 
is  the  oldest  of  American  canals.  It  was  made  in  1640,  in  order  to  in- 
crease the  navigable  facilities  of  the  Neponset  River  by  turning  part  of 
Charles  River  into  it.  The  canal  is  3 M.  long,  and  has  a fall  of  60  ft. 

Fisher  Ames  was  born  at  Dedham  in  1758.  He  was  an  eminent  lawyer  and 
orator,  and  was  the  leader  in  Congress  during  the  era  of  the  Confederation.  His 
“ Brutus  ” letters,  published  in  the  Boston  papers,  were  political  writings  which 
caused  a great  sensation. 

A branch  railroad  runs  in  2 M.  to  the  main  line  of  the  Boston  and  Providence 
Railroad.  This  forms  the  nearest  route  from  Boston  to  Dedham. 

The  stations,  Ellis’s,  Norwood,  Everett’s,  Winslow’s,  Tilton’s,  Walpole, 
Campbell’s,  Norfolk,  City  Mills,  and  Franklin,  are  then  passed.  The  lat- 
ter town  was  named  after  Benjamin  Franklin,  and  a hint  was  conveyed  to 
[ him  (then  at  Paris)  that  a good  church-bell  would  be  an  acceptable  pres- 
ent in  return  for  the  honor  conferred  on  him.  The  philosopher  sent  the 
town  a collection  of  valuable  books,  observing  that  the  people  were  prob- 
j ably  “ more  fond  of  sense  than  sound.” 

Nathaniel  Emmons,  D.  D.,  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  Hopkinsian 
school  of  theology,  was  pastor  here  for  54  years.  At  Walpole  the  line 
from  Framingham  to  New  Bedford  crosses  the  track.  Shortly  after  leav- 
ing Franklin,  the  line  crosses  the  Woonsocket  Division  of  the  N.  Y.  & N. 
E.  R.  R.  at  Mill  River  Junction,  and  2J  M.  farther  on  it  crosses  the 
Providence  and  Worcester  R.  R.  (Route  10)  at  Blackstone.  Stations, 
Millville,  Ironstone,  E.  Douglas,  Douglas,  soon  after  passing  which  the 
line  enters  Connecticut  and  stops  at  E.  Thompson,  whence  a branch 
railroad  runs  18  M.  to  the  N.  W.,  through  the  Massachusetts  towns  of 
Webster,  Dudley,  and  Southbridge.  After  crossing  diagonally  the  large 
town  of  Thompson  (much  visited  in  summer),  the  train  passes  on  the  rails 
of  the  Norwich  and  Worcester  Division,  at  Putnam  (a  village  containing 
several  cotton  and  woollen  factories). 

A daily  stage  runs  from  Putnam  to  Woodstock:,  starting  generally  late  in 
the  afternoon.  Elmwood  Hall,  at  Woodstock,  is  a line  summer  hotel  (opening 
June  15),  surrounded  by  pleasant  lawns.  From  this  mountain  village  are  obtained 
1 noble  views.  “ It  is  a miniature  Mount  Holyoke  ; and  its  prospect,  the  Connec- 


118  Route  19. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


ticut  Valley  in  miniature.”  (Beecher.)  Woodstock  Lake,  1 M.  from  the  village, 
is  a beautiful  and  sequestered  sheet  of  water,  abounding  in  fish  and  encircled  by 
forests. 

S.  W.  of  Woodstock  (passing  Crystal  Lake  on  the  way)  is  Ashford,  a secluded 
rural  town.  Here  was  born  Thomas  Knowlton,  who  fought  in  the  six  campaigns 
ending  in  the  conquest  of  Canada,  and  then  in  the  Havana  expedition.  He  led 
the  Ashford  minute-men  to  the  lines  at  Cambridge,  and  fought  with  them  at 
Bunker  Hill.  While  commanding  a light  infantry  reg.  he  wTas  killed  at  its  head  in 
the  battle  of  Harlem  Heights  (1776). 

His  grand-nephew  was  the  knightly  Lyon.  Nathaniel  Lyon  was  born  at  Ash- 
ford in  1819.  He  was  engaged  in  the  Florida  War,  the  Mexican  War  (wounded  at 
the  Belen  Gate  of  Mexico  City),  and  the  Kansas  Free-State  War.  In  May,  1861, 
while  commanding  at  St.  Louis  Arsenal,  with  a handful  of  Regulars  and  several 
regiments  of  loyal  Missourians,  he  captured  a large  rebel  camp  and  army  near  the 
city.  By  rapid  movements  and  hard  blows,  he  saved  Missouri  to  the  Union,  but 
was  at  last  confronted  at  Wilson’s  Creek  by  a force  4 times  as  large  as  his  own, 
composed  of  disloyal  Missourians,  Arkansians,  and  Texans.  Disdaining  to  flee, 
he  led  his  little  army  again  and  again  to  the  attack,  until  he  was  shot  dead  while 
heading  the  foremost  files  of  a charging  regiment.  He  left  his  fortune  ($  30,000) 
to  the  government,  to  aid  in  putting  down  the  rebellion,  and  after  a solemn 
triumphal  transit  across  the  country  his  body  was  laid  to  rest  in  the  village 
churchyard  at  Eastford. 

The  people  of  Ashford  were  ultra-orthodox  in  the  old  days.  One  day  while 
they  were  whipping  a nonchurch-goer  on  the  public  Green,  a stranger  rode  up 
and  cried,  “Men  of  Ashford,  you  serve  God  as  if  the  Devil  was  in  you.  Do  you 
think  you  can  whip  the  grace  of  God  into  a man  ? Christ  will  have  none  but 
volunteers.”  Then  he  spurred  away,  leaving  the  little  Inquisition  of  Ashford 
astounded,  confused,  and  ashamed. 

In  1773,  Eliphalet  Nott,  D.  D.,  the  distinguished  educator,  and  President  of 
Union  College  (1804-66)  for  62  years,  was  born  at  Ashford.  Galusha  A.  Grow 
was  born  at  Ashford  in  1823. 

Stations,  Daysville  and  Danielsonville,  busy  villages  engaged  largely  in 
the  cotton  manufacture  (the  former  turning  out  240  miles  of  fancy  cassi- 
meres  and  540,000  yards  of  cotton  cloth  yearly).  These  stations  are  in 
the  large  town  of  Killingly,  which  occupies  part  of  the  Indian  districts  of 
Attawaiigan  and  Minnetixit. 

This  region  is  rich  in  Indian  traditions,  the  most  curious  of  which  is  attached 
to  Mashapaug  Lake,  % M.  N.  of  Daysville.  Far  back  in  the  ante-colonial  days,  the 
Indians  were  accustomed  to  hold  revels  on  a hill  on  the  site  of  this  lake.  But 
once,  after  a merry-making  four  days  long,  the  Great  Spirit  became  offended  at 
their  riotous  orgies,  and,  as  he  struck  out  the  foundations  of  the  hill,  it  sank  in 
deep  waters,  carrying  down  all  the  assemblage  of  the  feasters.  Of  all  the  tribe 
one  woman  alone  was  saved  on  an  island  which  still  stands  in  the  lake.  On 
still,  clear  days,  a great  submerged  forest  may  be  seen  under  the  deepest  waters. 
A village  of  the  Narragansetts  once  gave  the  Nipmucks  (who  inhabited  this  dis- 
trict) a grand  sea-shore  feast  of  clams  and  fish.  The  next  year  they  were  invited 
into  this  hill-country  to  eat  venison  in  the  wigwams  of  the  Nipmucks.  But  a 
quarrel  arose  during  the  feast,  and  the  guests  from  the  sea-shore  were  massacred. 
The  Narragansett  tribe  took  action  on  the  matter,  and  marched  a strong  force 
into  the  Nipmuck  country,  only  to  receive  a severe  defeat  at  the  fords  of  the 
Quinebaug. 

5 M.  W.  of  Daysville  is  Pomfret,  which  was  settled  by  Roxbury  (Mass.) 
people  on  the  rich  lands  of  Mashamoquet,  in  the  year  1687.  In  Pomfret  is  the 
Wolf  Den,  where  the  intrepid  Putnam  descended  in  the  darkness,  alone,  and  killed 
a great  wolf  which  had  been  the  terror  of  the  town. 

S.  of  Pomfret  and  4.  M.  W.  of  Danielsonville  is  the  pretty  village  of  Brook- 
lyn (Putnam  House).  This  is  the  county-seat  of  Windham  Co.,  and  has  a re- 
fined and  cultivated  society,  while  its  broad  streets  are  lined  with  stately  trees 
and  fine  mansions.  The  Unitarian  Church,  on  the  Green,  is  the  only  church  of 
that  sect  in  the  State,  and  the  building  is  more  than  a century  old."  Celia  Bur- 
leigh is  the  pastor  of  this  society. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  19.  119 


Israel  Putnam,  bom  at  Salem,  Mass.,  in  1718,  settled  within  the  present  limits 
of  Brooklyn  in  1739.  From  1755  to  1762,  he  fought  in  the  French  wars,  and  was 
at  the  capture  of  Crown  Point,  Montreal,  and  Havana.  He  then  returned  to 
Brooklyn  and  remained  there  until  one  day,  when  he  was  ploughing  on  his  farm, 
the  news  of  the  battle  of  Lexington  came  down  the  country.  The  plough  was 
left  in  the  furrow  as  the  old  veteran  sprang  on  his  fleetest  horse  and  rode  toward 
the  scene  of  battle.  He  raised  a regiment  in  Windham  County  ; was  made  a 
maj.-gen.  in  the  Continental  Army  ; and  was  one  of  the  leaders  at  the  fight  on 
Breed’s  Hill.  He  commanded  at  New  York,  at  Princeton,  and  in  the  Hudson 
Highlands,  until  he  was  forced  to  retire  from  active  service  on  account  of  his  age. 
His  old  farmhouse  still  stands,  and  his  remains  are  obscurely  buried  in  a ceme- 
tery S.  of  the  village. 

Danielsonville  is  the  seat  of  extensive  factories  on  the  water-power 
furnished  by  the  Quinebaug  River.  Cotton  cloth  and  shoe-making  are 
the  principal  industries. 

Stages  run  thrice  daily  to  Brooklyn,  and  other  lines  run  to  Willimantic,  S. 
Killingly,  and  Providence  (the  latter  route  crosses  the  State  of  R.  I.). 

Stations,  Wauregan  (village  W.  of  the  station).  Quinebaug  Pond  (3  M. 
long)  is  a pretty  lake,  where  the  u Narragansetts’  fishing-light  ” rises  in 
the  form  of  a pillar  of  fire,  at  midnight,  once  in  every  seven  years . Such 
is  the  old  legend,  and  dwellers  in  the  country-side  claim  to  have  seen  this 
fiery  column  blazing  over  the  centre  of  the  pond.  The  large  Wauregan 
Mills  (cotton  sheetings)  are  situated  in  this  village. 

Stations,  Central  Village  (with  several  factories),  Plainfield  Junction 
(where  the  line  crosses  the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill  R.  R.), 
Jewett  City,  and  Greeneville.  At  the  two  latter  places  are  large  factories. 
The  Quinebaug  River  is  crossed  at  Jewett  City,  and  soon  after  the  train 
passes  through  a rock-tunnel  300  ft.  long.  At  Norwich  the  cars  run  on 
the  New  London  Northern  Line, .and  reach  the  steamboat  wharf  at  New 
London  late  in  the  evening. 

After  going  on  board  the  steamboat,  passengers  usually  retire,  and  sleep 
while  she  moves  through  the  quiet  waters  of  Long  Island  Sound.  Arising 
early  in  the  morning,  a fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  eastern  environs  and 
the  city  of  New  York.  The  boats  land  at  Pier  40,  North  River,  and 
from  the  next  pier  runs  the  ferry  to  Jersey  City,  which  enters  there 
the  terminal  station  of  the  railroads  to  Philadelphia  and  Washington, 
the  South  and  West. 

When  the  section  of  the  track  between  Willimantic  and  Middletown  is  completed, 
the  New  York  and  Boston  Air  Line  will  go  into  operation.  From 
Boston  to  Putnam  this  line  is  the  same  as  Route  19,  and  from  New  Haven  to  New 
York  it  is  the  same  as  Route  8.  It  is  much  shorter  than  the  other  routes,  but 
passes  through  a less  interesting  country. 


120  Route  20.  HARTFORD  TO  SALISBURY. 


- Boston  to  Woonsocket. 

Trains  leave  the  Boston  and  Albany  Station.  Distance  to  Woonsocket,  37£  M. 
Fare,  $1.10. 

The  line  soon  diverges  from  the  Albany  track,  and  passes  the  stations,  Brook- 
line, Reservoir,  and  Chestnut  Hill  (see  Route  2).  Newton  is  then  entered,  a 
large  and  picturesque  town,  abounding  in  suburban  villages.  In  1646  the  Apostle 
Eliot  came  to  the  Indian  village  of  Nonantum,  in  this  vicinity,  and  after  a formal 
reception  by  the  aged  chief  and  the  medicine-men,  he  unfolded  to  them  the  tenets 
of  Christianity.  A large  part  of  the  tribe  accepted  his  teachings,  formed  a church, 
and  adopted  the  laws  and  customs  of  the  colonists.  Near  Newton  Centre,  on 
a far- viewing  hill,  are  the  buildings  pertaining  to  a Theological  Institution  of  the 
Baptist  denomination.  This  school  is  in  high  reputation,  and  has  grown  rapidly 
since  its  foundation  in  1825.  The  course  of  study  covers  three  years. 

Stations,  Newton  Highlands,  Upper  Falls,  Highlandville.  Upper  Falls  is  a 
manufacturing  village  where  the  track  crosses  the  Charles  River.  At  Charles 
River  Station  the  river  is  again  crossed.  The  line  now  passes  through  the  towns 
of  Dover,  Medfield,  Medway,  and  Bellingham,  twice  crossing  the  sinuous  valley 
of  the  Charles.  Medfield  retains  the  memory  of  a fierce  attack  by  a swarm  of 
Indians  led  by  King  Philip,  who  “rode  an  elegant  horse."  50  houses  were  burnt, 
20  of  the  villagers  killed  and  many  made  prisoners,  but  finally  the  people  got  an 
old  cannon  into  position  and  drove  off  the  invaders.  John  Wilson,  Jr.,  a graduate 
of  the  first  Harvard  class,  was  pastor,  physician,  and  schoolmaster  of  the  village 
from  1651  to  1691.  The  stations  beyond  Charles  River,  are  Dover,  Medfield,  E. 
Medway,  Medway,  W.  Medway,  Cary’s,  N.  Bellingham,  Bellingham,  E.  Blackstone, 
and  Woonsocket  (see  Route  10).  At  Woonsocket  a connection  is  made  with  the 
Providence  and  Worcester  Railroad. 


20.  Hartford  to  Salisbury  and  Millerton. 

Via  the  Connecticut  Western  R.  R.  Distance,  62  M.  to  Salisbury  ; 69  M.  to 
Millerton. 

After  leaving  the  Union  Station  at  Hartford  the  line  runs  N.  W.  towards 
the  high  hills  which  bound  the  valley  of  the  Conn.  Stations,  Blue  Hills, 
Bloomfield,  Scotland,  Tariffville  (large  carpet  factories),  and  Simsbury 
(see  Route  15).  At  this  point  a connection  is  made  with  the  New  Haven 
and  Northampton  R.  R.  (Route  15).  Stations,  Stratton  Brook,  and  New 
Hartford.  The  latter  town  was  formerly  of  much  importance,  being  a halt- 
ing-place on  the  great  western  wagon  road,  from  Hartford  and  S.  E.  New 
England  to  Albany  and  W.  New  York.  At  present  it  is  engaged  in  the 
manufacture  of  cotton  and  steel  goods.  Stations,  Winsted  (see  Route  16), 
W.  Winsted,  Norfolk.  This  is  a pretty  village  (Norfolk  House,  $10-12 
a week)  with  mountains  on  every  side.  Before  the  church  is  a Green,  with 
a monument  “ to  the  memory  of  soldiers  of  this  town  who  died  for  their 
country  in  the  War  of  the  Rebellion.”  The  soil  of  Norfolk  is  cold,  rugged, 
and  stony,  and  it  is  written  that,  of  the  50  proprietors  who  bought 
the  town  in  1742,  after  inspection  of  the  tract,  49  forfeited  their 
claims  and  the  moneys  paid  on  them.  The  dairy  business  at  one  time 
flourished  here,  but  the  town  has  been  failing  slowly  for  years  : in  the 
month  of  April,  1872,  75  persons  moved  away  from  it.  The  hotel  is  a 
large,  quiet  summer-house  in  the  valley,  and  from  the  hills  over  it  are 
obtained  views  of  the  Sheffield  Mts.  through  long  lowland  vistas.  The 


SALISBURY. 


Route  20.  121 


most  prominent  elevation  in  the  vicinity  is  the  massive  Haystack  ML 
(footpath  to  the  summit),  from  which  a very  extensive  prospect  is  enjoyed, 
stretching  from  Mt.  Everett  in  Mass,  to  the  Mts.  of  New  York.  About 
5 M.  from  the  village  are  Camel’s  Falls,  which  are  attractive  after  heavy 
rains.  The  line  now  follows  the  valley  of  the  Blackberry  River  to  its 
junction  with  the  Housatonic,  crossing  at  Canaan  Station  the  Iiousatonic 
Railroad  (Route  17)  and  River.  After  passing  the  stations,  Twin  Lakes, 
Chapin ville,  Salisbury,  Lakeville,  Ore  Hill,  and  State  Line,  all  in  the  town 
of  Salisbury,  the  line  enters  the  State  of  New  York,  and  at  Millerton 
connects  with  the  Harlem,  the  Dutchess  and  Columbia,  and  the  Pough- 
keepsie and  Eastern  Railroads. 


Salisbury. 

“ O,  this  silence  in  the  air,  this  silence  on  the  mountains,  this  silence  on  the 

lakes On  either  side,  to  the  E.  and  to  the  W.,  ever- varying  mountain- 

forms  frame  the  horizon.  There  is  a constant  succession  of  hills  swelling  into 
mountains,  and  of  mountains  flowing  down  into  hills.  The  hues  of  green  in 
trees,  in  grasses,  and  in  various  harvests  are  endlessly  contrasted.  At  Salisbury 
you  come  under  the  shadow  of  the  Taconic  Range.  Here  you  may  well  spend  a 
week,  for  the  sake  of  the  rides  and  the  objects  of  curiosity.  4 M.  to  the  E.  are 
the  Falls  of  the  Housatonic,  called  Canaan  Falls,  very  beautiful,  and  worthy  of 
much  longer  study  than  they  usually  get.  Prospect  Hill,  not  far  from  Falls  Vil- 
lage, affords  altogether  the  most  beautiful  view  of  any  of  the  many  peaks  with 
which  this  neighborhood  abounds.  ” (This,  and  the  other  quotations  under  Salis- 
bury, are  from  Beecher’s  Star  Papers). 

Hotels,  Barnard  House,  $2.00  per  day  ; Miller’s  Hotel,  at  Lakeville  ; and  a large 
summer  boarding-house  next  to  St.  John’s  Church  (Epis.)  in  Salisbury  village. 

The  road  to  Falls  Village  leads  for  2 M.  down  a narrow  valley  rich  in 
grain,  and  then  to  the  E.  over  bold  spurs  of  Wolonanchu  Mt.  with  Pros- 
pect Mt.  on  the  1.,  and  rapidly  changing  views  of  the  Housatonic  Valley. 
Or,  without  crossing  Wolonanchu,  the  road  down  the  valley  may  be  fol- 
lowed to  the  hamlet  of  Lime  Rock  and  the  borders  of  the  Mts.  of  Sharon. 

A favorite  excursion  is  to  the  Bald  Peak  on  Mt.  Riga.  From  Salisbury 
to  the  Mountain  Pond  on  Riga  it  is  4 M.  of  easy  ascent,  most  of  the  way 
along  the  edge  of  a ravine  filled  with  resounding,  but  invisible,  cascades. 
A road  leads  along  the  plateau  to  the  base  of  Bald  Peak,  whence  the  as- 
cent must  be  made  by  a rude  path.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  very 
extensive,  embracing  on  the  W.  the  Oblong,  Buck,  and  Catskill  Mts.  in 
N.  Y. , on  the  S.  the  wilderness  of  high  hills  which  form  Sharon,  on  the 
E.  Canaan  Mt.,  Rarack  Matiff,  and  the  lakes  of  Salisbury,  and  on  the  N. 
Race,  Alander,  and  Everett  Mts.  in  Mass.  From  the  little  cluster  of 
houses  near  the  pond  on  Mt.  Riga,  one  can  return  to  Salisbury,  via  Lake- 
ville, by  a road  over  the  brow  of  the  hill,  or  by  a slightly  longer  road 
(8  M.)  leading  down  the  side  of  a water-course  with  pretty  views  of  the 
lakes,  to  Ore  Hill  (4  M.),  the  centre  of  the  iron-mining  industries  of  the 
town.  There  are  5 iron-mines  in  Salisbury,  employing  240  men,  and  sup- 
plying metal  to  the  forges,  anchor- works,  and  foundries  which  abound  on 
6 


122  Route  20. 


SALISBURY. 


the  streams  of  N.  W.  Conn.  In  April,  1861,  the  miners  of  Salisbury- 
sent  100  tons  of  iron  to  the  government,  to  be  made  into  cannon-balls. 
From  Ore  Hill  (which  is  within  1J  M.  of  the  New  York  line)  the  road  lies 
near  the  railway  track,  and  passes  to  Lakeville,  2J  M.  from  the  mines. 
As  the  road  passes  the  lakes  Wononkapok  and  Wononscapamuc,  pleasant 
views  are  obtained,  and  the  mts.  on  the  S.  rise  clearly  above  their  quiet 
waters.  Between  the  road  and  the  latter  lake  is  seen  the  stately  old  man- 
sion of  the  Holley  family,  built  by  the  Governor  of  that  name,  and  the 
birthplace  of  Horace  Holley,  the  Unitarian  divine,  long  President  of 
Transylvania  University,  and  of  0.  L.  Holley,  the  N.  Y.  lawyer  and 
journalist.  On  the  shores  of  the  same  lake  are  seen  the  large  white 
buildings  of  the  State  Hospital  for  the  Imbecile,  where,  by  skilful  treat- 
ment, the  thought-germs  in  stricken  minds  are  developed  into  action,  use- 
ful instruction  is  imparted,  and  many  heretofore  useless  persons  are 
elevated,  and  sent  forth  as  self-sustaining  members  of  society.  The  Hos- 
pital accommodates  about  50  patients,  and  is  situated  on  a hill  which 
commands  fine  views  of  the  lake  and  of  Indian  Mt.  After  leaving  these 
charming  lakes,  a ride  of  1J  M.  brings  one  to  Salisbury.  Mr.  Beecher 
suggests  that  after  leaving  Bald  Peak,  the  road  may  be  taken  to  Brace 
Mt.  and  the  Dome,  “thence  to  that  grand  ravine  and  its  wild  water, 
Bash-Bisli,  — a ride,  in  all,  of  about  18  M.,  and  wholly  along  the  moun- 
tain-bowl.” 

* Bash-Bish  Falls  are  about  12  M.  from  Salisbury  village,  and  near 
Copake  station  on  the  Harlem  R.  R.  This  is  a beautiful  little  waterfall, 
which  has  been  well  painted  by  Kensett,  and  was  much  visited  before  the 
destruction  of  the  hotel  by  fire. 

4 M.  N.  of  Salisbury  is  * “ Sage’s  Ravine,  which  is  the  antithesis  of 
Bash-Bish.  Sage’s  Ravine,  not  without  grandeur,  has  its  principal  at- 
tractions in  its  beauty ; Bash-Bish,  far  from  destitute  of  beauty,  is  yet 
most  remarkable  for  grandeur.  Both  are  solitary,  rugged,  full  of  rocks, 
cascades,  grand  waterfalls,  and  a savage  rudeness  tempered  to  beauty  and 
softness  by  various  and  abundant  mosses,  lichens,  flowers,  and  vines.  I 
would  willingly  make  the  journey  once  a month  from  New  York  to  see 
either  of  them.  Just  beyond  Sage’s  Ravine,  very  beautiful  falls  may  be 
seen  after  heavy  rains,  which  have  been  named  Norton’s  Falls.”  The 
way  to  the  ravine  leads  along  the  under-mountain  road  (4  M.).  Just 
before  reaching  a blacksmith’s  shop  at  the  bridge  over  a rill  from  the  hills, 
there  is  a small  hut  on  the  1. , and  the  field-road  turns  in  alongside,  by  tak- 
ing down  bars.  It  is  best  to  leave  horses  outside,  and,  entering  the  field, 
take  the  first  path  to  the  r.  and  follow  the  stream  up  the  ravine.  The 
principal  falls  are  know  as  the  Lower,  Twin,  and  Upper  Falls  (well  rep- 
resented in  a series  of  12  stereographs).  A vague  path  follows  up  the 
1.  side  of  the  water  (r.  bank),  “which,  if  you  love  solitude,  wildness,  and 


SALISBURY. 


Route  20.  123 


beauty,  will  be  worth  all  the  pains  you  may  take  to  climb  through  it. 
One  requires  a good  foot,  a strong  hand,  and  a clear  head,  and  then  there 
is  but  little  danger,”  though  the  path  is  soon  lost  in  a perfect  chaos  of 
rocks . Heavy  gloves  and  boots  are  necessary,  and  the  ascent  is  not  rec- 
ommended for  ladies,  although  several  have  accomplished  it.  An  obscure 
mountain  road  leads  to  the  vicinity  of  the  upper  end  of  the  ravine,  but 
the  descent  is  harder  than  the  ascent. 

From  Salisbury,  by  Sage’s  Ravine,  N.  into  Massachusetts,  runs  the 
under-mountain  road,  along  the  foot  of  the  Taconic  Range,  to  Sheffield  and 
the  Berkshire  Hills.  From  the  ravine  to  Salisbury,  visitors  sometimes 
return  by  way  of  the  Twin  Lakes,  a longer  but  pleasanter  route. 

The  * Twin  Lakes  are  gained  from  Salisbury  by  a road  passing  along 
the  low  spurs  of  Rarack  Matiff  Mt. , with  the  isolated  mass  of  Lion’s  Head 
on  the  W.  The  beautiful  lakes  of  Washining  and  Washinee  are  soon 
reached,  and  the  high  hills  in  the  vicinity  (Tom’s  Mt.,  Boar  Mt.)  are  seen 
mirrored  in  them.  Near  the  S.  shore  of  Washinee  a road  diverges  to  the 
1.  through  the  thick  pines,  to  a remarkable  cave.  This  was  but  lately 
discovered  by  a hunting  dog  chasing  a small  animal  into  it,  and  the 
hunters,  uneasy  at  his  long  absence,  tore  away  the  debris  from  the  hole 
and  entered.  At  a hut  near  the  cave,  where  the  keys  are  kept,  visitors 
can  get  appropriate  clothing,  lights,  and  refreshments.  The  main  cavern 
has  been  explored  for  about  700  ft.,  and  its  course  trends  steadily  down- 
ward. The  curious  forms  assumed  by  stalagmites  are  w~ell  shown  here. 
In  one  place  a stone  lady  is  seen,  facing  the  wall ; in  another,  vast  num- 
bers of  stalactitic  candles  depend  from  the  roof ; and  numerous  other 
marvels  are  found  by  imaginative  visitors.  The  village  and  station  of 
Chapinsville  is  situated  near  the  lakes.  Mr.  Beecher  speaks  of  the  lake 
rides  as  “ extremely  beautiful.  But  they  should  always  be  afternoon 
rides  ; for  these  discreet  lakes  do  not  choose  to  give  out  their  full  charms 
except  at  about  ah  hour  before  sunset.” 

Rides  are  taken  from  Salisbury  through  the  romantic  hills  of  Cornwall 
and  Sharon,  and  even  as  far  as  Great  Barrington  (N.),  and  Litchfield 
(S.  E.). 

Salisbury  was  first  settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1720,  who  lived  in  peace  with  the 
Indian  tribe  wlio  held  the  valley  and  of  whom  no  relic  remains  save  the  quaint 
names  which  they  gave  to  lakes  and  Mts.  This  was  the  farthest  advance  of  the 
timid  Hollanders  on  that  Alpine  land  (the  present  Mass.,  Conn.,  and  Vt.),  which 
was  portrayed  on  their  maps  by  a blank  white  space  (as  Greenland  is  on  our  maps), 
inscribed  with  the  cool  word  “ Winterberg.”  The  word  “ Housatonic  ” has  given 
rise  to  more  controversy  among  antiquarians  and  philologists  than  almost  any  other 
Indian  word,  and  one  good  authority  removes  it  from  an  aboriginal  derivation, 
and  claims  that  it  is  a euphonic  change  of  “Westenhok”  (Western  corner  or 
nook),  the  name  given  to  the  Dutch  settlement  here  as  being  in  a western  nook  of 
the  rugged  hills  which  stretch  away  E.  toward  the  Conn.  River.  But  in  1740  the 
restless  Anglo-American  wave  of  advance  reached  this  point.  There  are  no  Dutch 
or  Indians  there  now. 


124  Route  U. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


21.  Boston  to  New  York. 

The  great  Express  route,  via  Springfield  and  Hartford.  There  are  three  through 
express  trains  daily  in  8-9  hours.  Distance,  236  M.  ; fare,  $6.00.  This  is  the 
most  popular  and  pleasant  of  the  railway  routes  to  New  York,  passing  through 
the  large  cities  of  Worcester,  Springfield,  and  Hartford,  and  following  the  rich 
valley  of  the  Connecticut  for  a great  distance.  Elegant  parlor  and  sleeping  cars 
are  attached  to  all  through  trains.  By  leaving  Boston  at  9 in  the  morning,  one 
can  pass  over  this  route  by  daylight ; while  by  leaving  at  9 o’clock,  P.  M.,  one 
sleeps  all  night  ($2.00  for  a berth  in  the  sleeping-car)  and  reaches  New  York  at 
5.30  o’clock  in  the  morning. 

The  train  leaves  the  terminal  depot  in  Boston  (corner  of  Beech  and 
Lincoln  Sts.,  PI.  35.),  and  passes  ont  over  the  Back  Bay  lands.  Charles 
Elver  is  approached  on  the  r.,  and  a fine  view  is  given  of  the  compact  and 
more  ancient  parts  of  Boston,  crowned  by  the  State  House  dome.  Beyond 
the  city,  and  apparently  at  the  end  of  the  lake-like  widenings  of  the  river, 
the  populous  heights  of  Charlestown  are  seen,  while  Cambridge  lifts  her 
spires  on  the  nearer  western  shores.  The  line  crosses  the  town  of  Brook- 
line, studded  with  pretty  suburban  villages,  and  stops  at  Brighton  (Cattle 
Fair  Hotel),  celebrated  for  its  great  cattle-market.  The  stock-trains  on 
this  railroad  bring  immense  numbers  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  swine  from 
the  West,  which  are  here  made  into  beef,  mutton,  and  pork,  for  the  daily 
needs  of  Boston.  The  sheds,  yards,  and  pens  cover  many  acres,  and  the 
business  has  been  increasing  for  scores  of  years.  As  far  back  as  1837,  the 
yearly  sales  were  $2,500,000.  N.  of  the  station  is  seen  the  tower  on  Mt. 
Auburn,  and  the  U.  S.  Arsenal  at  Watertown,  on  the  other  bank  of  the 
Charles.  Newton  is  next  entered,  a wealthy  suburban  town  (valuation, 
$ 18,000,000),  with  a population  of  13,000.  Newton  Corner  is  near  the 
ancient  Nonantum  Hill,  where  the  Apostle  Eliot  first  preached  to  the 
Indians  (probably  the  present  Mt,  Ida,  from  which  a pleasant  view  is 
obtained).  This  village  has  a public  library  in  an  elegant  and  costly  stone 
building,  and  three  or  four  churches.  From  this  point  <to  Waltham  it  is 
3-4  M.,  to  the  Watertown  Arsenal  and  Mt.  Auburn,  2-3  M.,  and  to  the 
Baptist  Theological  Seminary  at  Newton  Centre,  2-3  M.  S.  The  line 
now  passes  Newtonville  (1J  M.  N.  of  Grove  Hill  Cemetery),  W.  Newton 
(2  M.  S.  of  the  Watch  Factory  at  Waltham),  and  Auburndale  (the  seat  of 
the  Laselle  Female  Seminary).  These  villages  are  all  in  the  town  of 
Newton.  From  Riverside  Station,  a branch  track  runs  S.  to  the  manu- 
factories at  Newton  Upper  Falls.  Stations,  Grantville  (a  factory  and 
residence  village),  and  Wellesley,  a picturesque  suburban  village,  near  the 
art-embellished  shores  of  Lake  Wauban.  2 M.  beyond  Wellesley  the 
train  reaches 

Natick  (Summer  St.  House),  “ the  place  of  hills,”  a large  town  near 
the  river  Charles,  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  shoes.  A large  hat-fac- 
tory is  located  here,  also  a base-ball  manufactory,  where  many  women 
are  employed. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21.  125 


In  1651  tlie  Christian  tribe  of  Nonantum,  which  had  embraced  the  faith  after 
the  preaching  of  Eliot,  removed  to  Natick,  where  they  formed  a government 
based  on  the  1 8th  chapter  of  Exodus,  with  rulers  of  hundreds,  of  fifties,  and  of 
tens.  Their  village  consisted  of  three  streets  lined  with  gardens  and  huts,  a 
building  for  a church  and  school,  a large,  circular  fort,  and  a bridge  over  the  river. 
The  Bible  was  translated  into  theii  language  by  Eliot,  and  published  at  Cam- 
bridge in  1663  (second  edition  in  1685),  whose  title-page  read  as  follows : 
“Maniusse  Wunneetupanatamwe  Up  Bidlum  God  Naneeswe  Nukkone  Testament 
Kah  Work  Wusku  Testament.”  But  despite  the  tender  care  of  the  colony,  the 
Indian  church  and  tribe  suffered  the  usual  fate  of  inferior  races  in  the  presence  of 
Anglo-Americans,  and  died  out  from  the  operation  of  internal  causes.  In  trans- 
lating the  passage,  “ And  the  mother  of  Sisera  looked  out  at  the  window,  and  cried 
through  the  lattice,”  in  searching  for  an  Indian  equivalent  for  the  word  “lattice,” 
after  much  labor  Eliot  found  a barbaric  phrase  which  was  jointed  for  it  in  his 
Bible.  Many  years  after,  he  found  that  his  word  for  “lattice  ” meant  “eel-pot,” 
and  the  ludicrous  change  in  the  text  excited  much  merriment  in  Cambridge. 

Just  N.  of  Natick,  across  the  track,  and  visible  from  the  train  soon 
after  leaving  the  station,  is  Cochituate  Lake , from  which  the  water  supply 
of  Boston  is  carried  to  that  city  by  a long  and  sinuous  aqueduct. 

Station,  S.  Framingham  (restaurant  in  the  station),  near  which  is 
Harmony  Grove,  and  the  camp-ground  of  the  52  Methodist  churches  of 
the  Boston  circuit. 

S.  Framingham  is  the  centre  of  a system  of  divergent  railroads. 

A branch  of  the  Boston  and  Albany  track  runs  S.  12  M.  through  the  farming 
town,  Holliston,  to  Milford,  a town  of  10,000  inhabitants.  Stages  run  from  Milford 
to  Mendon  (celebrated  for  its  apples),  Uxbridge,  and  Upton. 

The  Boston,  Clinton,  and  Fitchburg  R.  R.  brings  its  various  divisions  to  a 
centre  at  this  point.  The  Mansfield  and  Framingham  Division  runs  hence  18  M. 
S.  E.,  passing  the  stations,  Sherborn,  Medfield  Junction  (connecting  with  Woon- 
socket Division  of  the  B.,  H.,  and  Erie  R.  R.),  Medfield,  Walpole  (connecting 
with  the  N.  Y.  and  N.  E.  R.  R.),  S.  Walpole,  Foxboro’,  and  Mansfield.  At  the 
latter  station  connections  are  made  with  the  Boston  and  Providence  Railroad,  and 
with  the  Taunton  Branch  Railroad. 

The  Lowell  Division  runs  from  S.  Framingham  to  Lowell,  28  M.  N.  Stations, 
Framingham  and  Sudbury.  Sudbury  was  settled  in  1638,  and  in  1676  was 
the  scene  of  a bloody  contest,  when  70  men,  marching  to  relieve  Marlboro’, 
were  ambushed  here  by  Indians.  26  of  the  colonists  were  killed  on  the  field, 
and  the  remainder  were  captured,  and  many  of  them  were  put  to  death  by  ter- 
rible tortures.  A monument  to  their  memory  was  erected  on  the  field,  by  President 
Wadsworth,  of  Harvard  College,  whose  father  was  captain  of  the  defeated  party. 

In  Sudbury  was  a famous  old  tavern  in  the  colonial  days,  which,  during  the 
march  of  the  western  counties’  militia  on  Boston,  was  a busy  place.  This  is  the 
“Wayside  Inn”  of  Longfellow’s  poems,  the  purer,  fairer  Canterbury  Tales  of 
American  literature : — 

“ As  ancient  is  this  hostelry 
As  any  in  the  land  may  be, 

Built  m the  old  Colonial  day, 

When  men  lived  in  a grander  way, 

With  ampler  hospitality. 

A region  of  repose  it  seems, 

A place  of  slumber  and  of  dreams, 

Remote  among  the  wooded  hills.” 

The  characters  represented  among  the  story-tellers  “around  the  fireside  at 
their  ease”  were  as  follows  : The  Landlord,  “grave  in  his  aspect  and  attire,”  was 
Squire  Lyman  Howe,  of  Sudbury.  The 

“ Student  of  old  books  and  ways. 

With  tales  of  Flores  and  Blanchefleur 
Sir  Ferumbras,  Sir  Eglamour,  ’ 

was  young  Henry  Wales.  The  young  Sicilian, 


126  Route  21. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


“ In  sight  of  Etna  bred  and  born,” 

was  Luigi  Monti,  American  consul  at  Palermo.  The  “Theologian,  from  the 
school  of  Cambridge  on  the  Charles,”  was  Prof.  Treadwell,  of  Harvard.  The 
Poet  was  T.  W.  Parsons,  of  Boston,  translator  of  Dante’s  “ Inferno,”  and  author 
of  many  short  poems.  The  “ blue-eyed  Norseman,”  who  bore  the  Stradivarius 
violin,  “ a miracle  of  the  lutist’s  art,”  and  sang  the  Saga  of  King  Olaf,  was  Ole 
Bull. 

Beyond  Sudbury  is  W.  Concord,  where  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  crosses  the 
present  route.  Station,  Acton  (Monument  House),  whence  marched  a company 
of  minute-men,  who  were  among  the  first  engaged  at  the  battle  of  Concord.  Their 
captain  was  killed  at  the  fight  by  the  bridge.  The  line  crosses  the  towns  of  Car- 
lisle and  Chelmsford,  and  stops  at  Lowell. 

Another  division  of  this  railroad  runs  from  S.  Framingham  to  Fitchburg.  Sta- 
tion, Framingham  Centre,  built  around  a level  Green,  in  a large  farming  town. 
The  great  tide  of  travel  between  Boston  and  the  West  formerly  passed  through 
this  village,  which  then  had  a famous  inn.  The  town  hall,  old  church,  and 
Academy  (founded  1792)  front  on  the  Green.  The  line  now  passes  across  the 
farming  town  of  Southboro’,  and  enters  fair  and  fertile  Marlboro’.  This  was  the 
site  of  the  Christian  Indian  village  of  Okommakamesitt,  and  was  colonized  by 
Sudbury  people  in  1655.  Its  first  pastor  (1666-  1701)  “ uniformly  refused  baptism 
to  children  born  on  the  Sabbath.”  At  Marlboro’  the  present  route  connects  with 
a branch  of  the  Fitchburg  Railroad.  Nortliboro’  is  the  next  town,  and  is  devoted 
to  farming  and  cattle-raising.  The  village  churchyard  contains  the  grave  of  the 
Rabbi  Judah  Monis,  who  renounced  Judaism  in  favor  of  Christianity  in  1722,  and 
became  teacher  of  Hebrew  at  Harvard  College,  where  he  remained  till  his  death 
in  1761.  The  train  crosses  the  Assabet  River  E.  of  the  station,  and  then  passes 
on  through  the  town  of  Berlin  to  Clinton  (Clinton  House),  a busy  village  at  the 
junction  of  the  Worcester  and  Nashua  Railroad.  At  Pratt’s  Junction  the  Fitch- 
burg and  Worcester  Railroad  is  crossed,  and  the  train  runs  across  Leominster, 
with  occasional  views  of  Wachusett  Mountain  on  the  W.  The  central  village  of 
Leominster  is  finely  situated.  Soon  after  leaving  this  station  the  train  reaches 
Fitchburg. 

From  S.  Framingham  the  main  line  follows  the  Sudbury  River,  which 
it  often  approaches  and  once  or  twice  crosses.  Stations,  Ashland  (Cen- 
tral House),  Cordaville,  Southville,  and  Westboro’  (Westboro’  Hotel). 
This  is  the  seat  of  the  State  Reform  School  and  a large  water-cure  estab- 
lishment. 3J  M.  S.  E.  of  the  station  are  the  Hophinton  Springs  (small 
hotel)  near  the  large  and  handsome  Whitehall  Pond,  abounding  in  fish. 
There  are  three  springs,  all  different,  and  carbonate  of  lime  and  iron  are 
the  chief  ingredients.  This  was  formerly  a fashionable  resort,  and  is  on 
the  old  Indian  domain  of  Maguncook. 

Station,  Grafton  (the  Indian  Hassanamesit),  with  3 small  hotels,  on  a 
reservation  of  4 M.  square,  given  by  the  colony  to  a tribe  of  Christian 
Indians.  Shrewsbury  is  a town  just  N.  of  the  track,  where  was  born 
Artemas  Ward,  major  of  the  8th  Mass.  Reg.  at  the  siege  of  Louisbourg 
(1758),  and  commander  of  the  army  besieging  Boston  until  the  arrival  of 
Washington.  Levi  Pease  was  born  here,  who  started  the  first  line  of 
mail  stages  between  Boston  and  New  York  (1784),  previous  to  which  a 
fortnightly  mail  was  borne  between  the  two  places,  and  contained  in 
a pair  of  saddle-bags. 

Station,  Millbury  (near  New  England  Village),  whence  a short  branch 
track  runs  (3  M.)  to  Millbury  village.  The  line  now  turns  to  the  N.  and 
runs  above  and  near  Quinsigainond  Pond,  a pretty  lake,  4 M.  long,  nar- 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21.  127 


row  and  deep,  with  12  islands  in  it.  The  college  boat-races  have  often 
taken  place  on  this  pond.  Shrewsbury’s  spires  are  seen  afar,  over  its 
waters. 

Worcester. 

Hotels.  * Bay-State  House,  $ 3.50,  comer  Main  and  Exchange  ; Waldo  House, 
$2.50,  Waldo  St.,  near  the  station  ; European  House  ; Exchange  Hotel. 

Reading-Rooms.  At  the  Free  Library,  Elm  St.,  near  Main ; Y.  M.  C.  As- 
sociation, Pearl  St. 

Horse-Cars  on  Main  St.,  from  Webster  Park  to  Harrington  Avenue. 

Stages  to  Quinsigamond,  S.  Worcester,  Oakham,  Shrewsbury,  and  Marlboro’, 
Leicester  and  Spencer,  Webster  and  Oxford,  Paxton,  Coldbrook  and  Barre. 

Railroads,  to  Providence  (Route  10),  Norwich,  Nashua  (Route  13),  Albany 
(Route  22),  Barre  and  Gardiner,  Fitchburg,  and  Boston. 

Worcester,  the  second  city  in  wealth  and  population  in  the  Common- 
wealth, and  the  capital  of  Worcester  County,  is  situated  among  a group 
of  hills  on  the  Blackstone  River.  Its  manufacturing  interests  have  risen 
rapidly  to  a commanding  position,  being  favored  by  the  central  location 
of  the  city,  and  the  large  railroad  system  converging  there.  The  popula- 
tion is  over  50,000.  There  are  29  churches,  9 temperance  societies,  11 
bodies  of  Masons,  3 of  Odd  Fellows,  and  3 societies  of  Irish,  3 of  Ger- 
mans, and  1 of  Scotchmen. 

Worcester  claims  the  name  of  an  academic  city,  in  virtue  of  its  numer- 
ous fine  schools.  Its  Classical  and  English  High  School  employs  4 mas- 
ters and  5 assistants,  and  has  a noble  building,  which  is  surmounted  by  a 
graceful  tower  terminating  in  a spire.  This  tower  is  a copy  of  one  of 
the  best  European  campaniles,  but  is  unfortunately  too  slender  in  com- 
parison with  the  heavy  mass  of  the  building.  Near  Main  St.  on  the  S. 
is  the  celebrated  Oread  Seminary  for  young  ladies,  in  picturesque  stone 
buildings  located  on  a hill  and  surrounded  by  trees.  The  castle-like 
structure,  with  embattled  towers,  on  a commanding  hill  S.  E.  of  the  city 
was  built  for  a Medical  School,  but  is  now  used  as  an  academy  under  the 
care  of  the  Baptist  Church.  The  Roman  Catholic  College  of  the  Holy 
Cross  occupies  an  extensive  range  of  imposing  buildings  on  Packachoag 
Hill,  2 M.  S.  of  the  city,  and  is  well  attended  by  the  youth  of  that  church 
from  all  parts  of  New  England.  A State  Normal  School  occupies  a hill 
E.  of  Lincoln  Square,  and  across  the  valley  to  the  W.  are  the  buildings 
of  the  Free  Industrial  School  (90  students),  with  lectures,  laboratories, 
machine-shops,  and  all  appliances  for  learning  young  men  to  be  practical 
architects,  carpenters,  engineers,  chemists,  civil  engineers,  &c.  u The 
ultimate  end  of  this  institution  is  the  elevation  of  the  mechanic  by  giv- 
ing him  thorough  and  complete  scientific  knowledge  on  which  he  may 
base  his  future  work.”  The  school  is  richly  endowed,  and  is  free  to 
young  men  of  this  county  (others  pay  $ 100  a year).  Boynton  Hall  (named 
in  honor  of  the  founder  of  the  school)  is  a graceful  and  ornate  stone  build- 
ing. 1J  M.  N.  of  Worcester  is  the  Highland  Military  School , widely 
known  for  the  stringent  thoroughness  of  its  discipline. 


128  Route  21. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


A State  Lunatic  A sylum  (on  the  family  plan)  is  located  near  the  city. 
It  accommodates  350  - 400  patients,  and  is  about  to  move  to  a pleasant 
estate  near  Lake  Quinsigamond.  It  now  occupies  several  buildings  form- 
ing a quadrangle,  on  a hill  E.  of  the  city. 

Hope  Cemetery  in  New  Worcester,  and  Rural  Cemetery  on  Grove  St., 
are  attractive  burying-grounds.  2 M.  E.  is  Quinsigamond  Lake , a long, 
deep,  narrow  sheet  of  water,  on  which  the  college  boat-races  often  take 
place. 

Main  St.  is  about  2 M.  long,  and  contains  the  principal  business  houses 
and  hotels.  It  is  a wide,  pleasant  street,  well  lined  with  trees,  and 
adorned  with  some  fine  commercial  buildings.  Near  its  lower  end  is  the 
Oread  Seminary,  and  the  Jesuit  College  is  seen  across  a broad  valley. 
Central  Park  (the  Common)  is  E.  of  Main  St.  and  contains  the  Old  South 
Church  and  the  Bigelow  Monument,  while  four  other  churches  are  seen 
on  its  sides.  Passing  N.  on  Main  St.  many  fine  business  blocks  are  seen, 
with  St.  Paul’s  Catholic  Church,  Trinity  M.  E.  Church,  the  towers  of 
the  High  School,  and  numerous  tall  spires  on  the  hills  to  the  1.  On  the 
r.  is  Mechanics’  Hall,  a fine  audience-chamber  seating  2,500,  with  a 
brown-stone  front  in  rich  Corinthian  architecture.  On  side-streets  diverg- 
ing to  the  1.  in  this  vicinity  are  the  Post  Office  and  the  reading-room  of 
the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  (Pearl  St.),  and  the  Free  Library  (Elm  St.).  The  latter 
contains  32,000  volumes,  being  especially  rich  in  mechanics  and  medical 
works,  while  its  reading-room  (open  from  9 A.  M.  until  9 P.  M. ) has  170 
different  magazines  and  papers,  in  4 languages.  On  Foster  St.  are  the 
rooms  of  the  Natural  History  Society  with  valuable  cabinets  (open 
Wednesday  afternoons).  On  Main  St.  beyond  Mechanics’  Hall  and  the 
Bay  State  House,  is  the  old  Exchange  Hotel,  a famous  inn  of  the  colonial 
days,  where  Washington  and  Lafayette  have  stopped.  Just  beyond  is 
Lincoln  Square,  where,  on  a high  terrace,  are  seen  the  Congregational 
Church,  the  granite  Court  House  with  its  classic  front,  and  the  neat 
building  (in  the  Italian  architecture)  of  the  * American  Antiquarian 
Society. 

In  the  latter  structure  is  preserved  a valuable  library  of  50,000  volumes,  with 
ancient  portraits  of  Samuel,  Increase,  and  Cotton  Mather  and  other  Puritan 
divines  ; Governors  Winthrop,  Endicott,  and  other  founders  of  the  State.  Many 
busts  adorn  the  walls,  and  there  are  large  casts  of  Michael  Angelo’s  Moses,  and 
Christ  (bought  in  Borne  by  Hon.  Stephen  Salisbury).  In  glass  cases  about  the 
hall  are  several  literary  curiosities,  ancient  black-letter  MSS  on  vellum  (15th 
century) ; an  elegant  Persian  MS.  richly  illuminated  (date,  1480) ; 3 British  tax- 
stamps  of  1763  ; MS.  sermons  of  microscopic  fineness  written  by  old  Puritan 
pastors;  Latin  books  printed  at  Rome  and  Venice  in  1475-6;  Cranmer’s  Bible 
(1538)  ; Ptolemy’s  Geography  ; missals  on  vellum  ; and  a superb  * Koran  in  Arabic, 
brilliantly  illuminated.  Two  cases  of  Indian  relics  are  near  the  entrance  to  the 
hall.  This  collection  is  open,  9-12,  and  2-5  o’clock  daily,  except  Saturday  and 
Sunday.  From  the  hill  behind  the  building,  the  Free  Industrial  School  and  the 
Normal  School  may  be  seen. 

On  the  Common,  near  the  Old  South  Church,  is  a pretty  English  Gothic 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21.  129 


monument,  built  of  granite  and  Tuscan  marble,  over  the  remains  of 
Timothy  Bigelow,  Colonel  of  the  15th  Mass.  Continental  Reg.  Near  this 
will  be  raised  (late  in  1873)  the  * Soldiers’  Monument,  whose  bronzes  are 
now  cast  in  Munich.  Colossal  figures  in  the  uniform  of  the  American 
infantry,  cavalry,  artillery,  and  marine  services  will  surround  a tall  Co- 
rinthian column,  surmounted  by  a statue  of  Victory,  standing  on  a globe, 
with  a drawn  sword  in  her  uplifted  hand.  “The  expression  of  her 
beautiful  face  is  full  of  exultancy  and  pride.  In  spite  of  her  colossal  size, 
she  hardly  seems  to  rest  on  the  ball.  But  with  such  powerful  wings,  and 
such  an  innate  consciousness  of  strength,  the  air  itself  would  be  a suf- 
ficient support.” 

The  Boston  and  Albany  Railroad  are  at  work  here  on  an  elegant  new  station  (on 
Washington  Square),  to  be  514  ft.  long  and  256  ft.  wide,  with  an  Italian  clock' 
tower  200  ft.  high,  all  in  heavy  granite  masonry. 

In  1669  a legislative  committee  located  a settlement  for  30  families  at  Worces- 
ter (Saxon,  Wegera,  Ceaster,  War-Castle),  as  a half-way  halting-place  between  the 
valley-towns  and  the  coast.  The  citadel  of  this  colony  was  near  the  present 
corner  of  Main  and  Columbia  Streets.  The  Indians  soon  forced  the  evacuation 
of  the  settlement,  and  it  lay  desolate  from  1702  to  1713,  when  it  was  reoccupied, 
and  stern  defensive  laws  were  passed.  A fortress-like  church  was  built  (on  the 
Common),  and  each  man  was  ordered  to  carry  to  Sunday  services  his  musket  and 
6 rounds  of  ammunition.  In  1720  some  Scotch  Presbyterian  immigrants  built  a 
church  of  their  own,  which  was  assaulted  and  torn  down  by  the  Puritan  colonists 
as  a cradle  of  heresy.  In  1755  numerous  exiled  Acadians  were  sent  here,  and  soon 
after  the  “ Massachusetts  Spy  ” newspaper  (still  published  there)  began  to  fan  the 
flames  of  revolution.  April  19,  1775,  a breathless  messenger  bore  into  town, 
the  news  of  the  battle  of  Lexington.  His  white  horse,  flecked  with  blood  and 
foam,  fell  dead  on  Main  St. , but  he  rode  westward  on  another,  while  the  minute- 
men  moved  on  Boston  by  thousands.  In  July,  1776,  the  Sons  of  Freedom  had  a 
grand  feast,  and  among  their  toasts  were,  “ May  the  freedom  and  independence 
of  America  endure  till  the  sun  grows  dim  with  age,  and  this  earth  returns  to 
chaos.”  “ Perpetual  itching  without  the  benefit  of  scratching,  to  the  enemies  of 
America.”  The  town  sent  27  officers  and  409  men  to  the  army.  In  1786,  Worcester 
was  taken,  and  its  courts  closed  by  800  of  Shays’  insurgents,  wearing  the  emble- 
matic pine-branch.  Father  Fitton,  on  a missionary  tour  in  1834,  found  four 
Catholic  families  in  Worcester : that  denomination  now  has  four  churches  in  the 
city,  including  Notre  Dame  des  Canadiens.  The  population  in  1830  was  4,082.  In 
1861,  at  the  very  hour  when  the  6th  Mass,  was  fighting  in  the  streets  of  Baltimore, 
the  Bigelow  Monument  was  dedicated  here.  Said  Judge  Thomas  at  the  dedica- 
tion, “ The  cry  to-day  in  the  streets  of  this  beautiful  city  is  that  which  86  years 

ago  startled  the  quiet  village,  ‘ To  arms  ! * . So  be  it,  to  arms  ! It  will  cost 

us  a long,  severe,  and  bitter  struggle,  but  this  rebellion  must  be  crushed  out. 
There  is  for  us  no  hope  of  freedom,  of  peace,  of  safety  even,  till  this  work  is  fully 
done.  Seven  years  of  war  were  spent  in  the  purchase  of  our  freedom  ; seven  more 
of  toil  ifi  giving  it  organic  life.  If  seven  years  of  toil  and  blood  are  spent  in 
securing  it,  in  our  national  redemption,  they  will  be  wisely,  divinely  spent, 
with  the  blessing  of  God  and  all  coming  generations  of  men.”  Within  five  months 
5,000  men  marched  from  the  Park  to  the  Potomac.  The  15th  Mass.  (Worcester  Co.) 
Reg.  paraded  here  before  leaving,  and  received  their  colors  from  the  ladies.  “ I 
am  deputed  by  the  ladies  of  Worcester  to  present  to  you  this  banner.  Eighty- 
four  years  ago  to-day  there  was  mustering  in  these  streets  the  first  regiment  ever 
raised  in  Worcester  Co.  for  actual  warfare,  the  15th  Reg.  of  the  Mass.  Line.  What 
hard-fought  fields  at  Monmouth  and  Trenton,  what  sufferings  at  Valley  Forge, 
what  glory  and  victory  at  Saratoga  and  Yorktown,  have  made  that  name  famous  ! 

. . . What  they  won  for  us,  it  is  yours  to  preserve  for  us.”  — Judge  Hoar. 

Stations,  Roclidale  (Union  Hotel),  4 M.  S.  of  the  village  of  Leicester, 
6 i 


130  Route  21. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


on  Strawberry  Hill,  the  Indian  Towtaid ; Charlton,  and  Spencer,  2 M.  S. 
of  the  village  (Spencer  Hotel),  which  is  on  a plateau  950  ft.  above  the  sea. 
It  has  a venerable  look  now,  though  De  Warville  (1788)  spoke  of  it  as  “ a 
new  village  in  the  midst  of  woods.” 

Elias  Howe,  Jr.,  was  born  at  Spencer  in  1818.  After  working  in  a Lowell  cot- 
ton-factory and  a Boston  machine-shop,  he  wrought  out  his  great  idea  of  a sewing- 
machine  (patented  1846).  The  idea  did  not  become  j)opular,  and  he  was  forced  to 
support  himself  as  a railroad  engineer  until  penury  and  harsh  labor  broke  his 
health.  After  a time,  capitalists  took  up  his  invention,  and  by  their  help,  after 
long  litigation,  he  proved  his  prior  right  to  the  patent  against  several  competitors 
(1854).  Between  1854  and  his  death  in  1867,  he  realized  $ 2,000,000  from  his  sew- 
ing-machines. 

The  line  now  enters  the  valley  of  the  Chicopee,  passes  E.  Brookfield 
(Wesbakim),  and  stops  at  Brookfield  (Brookfield  Hotel). 

This  town  was  settled  on  the  Indian  lands  of  Quaboag,  by  Ipswich  men,  in 
1660.  In  1675  a large  force  of  Nipmucks  advanced  on  the  place.  Envoys  were 
sent  out  to  treat  with  the  Indians,  but  six  of  them  were  killed,  and  the  village 
(the  present  W.  Brookfield)  was  attacked.  The  inhabitants  had  gathered  in  a 
garrison-house,  which,  after  the  rest  of  the  village  had  been  plundered  and  burnt, 
was  attacked  by  the  enemy.  For  three  long  days  the  house  was  defended  with 
desperate  bravery,  though  shot  and  flaming  arrows  were  showered  against  it. 
Then  a cart  full  of  blazing  flax  and  straw  was  pushed  against  it,  and  the  defence 
would  have  been  ended,  but  for  a sudden  shower  which  extinguished  the  rising 
flames.  After  this  shower,  which  they  held  to  be  miraculous,  a brave  partisan 
officer  with  a troop  of  light  horse  galloped  in  from  Lancaster,  after  a forced 
march  of  30  M.,  and  scattered  the  besiegers.  In  1676,  the  evacuation  of  the 
town  was  ordered,  as  a military  necessity,  by  the  Legislature,  and  it  remained 
desolate  for  12  years.  The  Quaboag  Pond  is  a large  pond  S.  of  the  village,  whose 
waters  flow  by  the  Sashaway  River  through  the  Podunk  Meadows,  to  the  Chico- 
pee. 

Station,  W.  Brookfield,  near  the  village  of  heroic  memory  (Wickaboag 
House).  These  various  hamlets  of  Brookfield  are  now  chiefly  noted  for 
their  extensive  shoe-manufactures. 

Stations,  Warren  (Warren  Hotel),  a prettily  placed  village,  near  which 
is  the  old  Quaboag  Seminary;  W.  Warren,  Brimfield. 

In  the  Brimfield  churchyard  (5-6  M.  to  the  S.  E.)  is  buried  Gen.  William 
Eaton,  some  time  an  officer  in  the  U.  S.  Army,  and  then  Consul  to  Tunis.  In 
1805  he  planned  the  restoration  of  Hamet,  the  rightful  Bashaw  of  Tripoli,  and 
marched  from  Cairo,  Egypt,  with  400  Moslems  and  100  Christians,  across  the 
desert.  With  reckless  bravery  he  stormed  the  ramparts  of  the  Tripolitan  city  of 
Berne,  garrisoned  by  a force  larger  than  his  own.  The  United  States  having  con- 
cluded a peace  with  the  reigning  Bashaw,  Eaton  was  forced  to  abandon  his 
conquest,  and  he  returned  to  America,  where  he  died  (at  Brimfield)  in  1811. 

Station,  Palmer  (American  House,  Nassawanno  House),  in  a flourish- 
ing manufacturing  town.  The  State  Almshouse  in  Monson  may  be  seen 
to  the  S.  across  the  Chicopee  River. 

From  this  point  diverge  the  Athol  and  Enfield  and  the  Ware  River 
Railroads,  while  the  New  London  Northern  Line  crosses  the  track  here. 

Stations,  Wilbraham  (with  the  flourishing  Wesleyan  Academy  3 M.  S.) 
and  Indian  Orchard  (horse-cars  to  the  village). 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21.  131 


Springfield. 

Hotels.  9 Massasoit  House  (said  to  set  the  best  table  in  New  England),  di- 
rectly alongside  of  the  station,  $ 4 a day ; * Haynes’s  Hotel,  a large  first-class 
house  on  Main,  near  Pynchon  St.  ; Cooley’s  Hotel,  on  Main  St.,  near  and  N.  of 
the  station  ; Pynchon  House. 

Reading;- rooms,  at  the  City  Library  on  State  St.,  and  the  Y.  M.  C.  Associ- 
ation, on  Main  St. 

Horse -cars  run  on  Main  St.  and  to  the  Armory  and  Water  Shops. 

Railroads  leave  the  central  station  for  New  York  (135  M.),  Boston  (98  M.), 
Albany  (104  M.),  and  the  North. 

Springfield  was  settled  by  a company  under  William  Pynchon,  in  1638,  whose 
compact  began  as  follows : “Article  I.  Wee  intend,  by  God’s  grace,  as  soon  as 
wee  can,  with  all  convenient  speede,  to  procure  some  godly  and  faithfull  minister, 
with  whome  wee  propose  to  joyne  in  church  covenant  to  walk  in  all  the  ways  of 
Christ.  Article  II.  Wee  intend  that  our  town  shall  be  composed  of  fourty  family’s, 
or  if  wee  think  meete  after  to  change  our  purpose  ; yet  not  to  exceed  the  number 
of  fifty  family’s,  rich  and  poore.”  The  town  would  have  been  abandoned  at  one 
time  but  for  the  orders  of  the  Legislature,  forbidding  the  evacuation  of  Mass, 
settlements,  whereupon  the  people  erected  a strong  palisade.  Great  suffering 
was  experienced  during  the  first  winter,  for  the  freezing  of  the  river  prevented 
vessels  ascending  with  supplies.  Several  persons  started  for  Boston,  and  were 
frozen  on  the  way.  Pynchon,  the  magistrate  of  Springfield,  wrote  an  anti-Calvin- 
istic  theological  book  in  1650,  which  was  condemned  by  the  Legislature  and  burnt 
on  Boston  Common.  He  was  deposed  from  his  office,  was  forced,  amid  a storm 
of  clerical  wrath,  to  retract,  and  soon  returned  to  England  to  escape  persecution. 
In  1675,  while  the  train-bands  of  Springfield  were  guarding  Hadley,  the  Indians 
laid  a plot  to  destroy  the  place.  Their  plan  was  exposed  by  a friendly  Indian 
at  Windsor,  whence  a rider  was  despatched,  who  reached  Simngfield  at  dead  of 
night,  and  aroused  the  people.  Just  as  they  had  gained  the  shelter  of  three  gar- 
rison-houses, 600  Indians  entered  the  streets  and  burnt  every  other  house  in  town. 
They  successfully  disputed  the  passage  of  the  river  against  Major  Treat’s  com- 
mand, and  only  retired  at  the  approach  of  Major  Pynchon  and  200  men  from  Had- 
ley, leaving  behind  them  a sad  scene  of  ruin  and  destruction.  During  the  Revo- 
lution works  for  repairing  muskets  were  established  here,  and  also  a cannon- 
foundry,  at  which  were  cast  the  guns  of  several  of  the  batteries  which  were  en- 
gaged in  the  battles  near  Saratoga.  Jan.  25,  1787,  1,200  of  Shays’  rebels  attacked 
the  Arsenal,  which  was  defended  by  1,100  militia  men.  A few  cannon-shot  dis- 
persed the  assailants.  During  the  present  century  Springfield  has  grown  rapidly, 
by  reason  of  the  establishment  here  of  the  U.  S.  Armory  and  numerous  other 
manufactures,  and  by  the  convergence,  at  this  point,  of  important  railway  systems. 

Springfield  is  a handsome  city  of  about  28,000  inhabitants,  situated  on 
the  E.  bank  of  the  Connecticut  River.  Its  principal  thoroughfare  is  Main 
St.,  a wide  and  level  street,  3 M.  long,  adorned  with  many  fine  commer- 
cial buildings.  The  principal  object  of  interest  in  the  city  is  the 
* United  States  Armory,  which  is  established  on  a park  of  72  acres  on 
Arsenal  Hill  (E.  of  the  station,  and  best  reached  by  way  of  State  St.). 
The  buildings  surround  a great  quadrangle  called  Union  Square,  and  have 
5-700  men  constantly  engaged.  1,000  each  of  the  Sharp,  Remington,  and 
Springfield  breech-loading  rifles  have  lately  been  issued  to  the  army  for 
test,  while  the  manufacture  and  alteration  of  rifles  and  carbines  is  con- 
stantly going  on.  During  the  War  of  the  Rebellion  the  works  were  run 
night  and  day  for  four  years,  and  at  one  time  over  3,000  men  were  em- 
ployed. Nearly  800,000  guns  were  made  during  that  time,  at  an  expense 
of  $12,000,000.  The  Arsenal  is  a large  building  on  the  W.  of  the  quad- 
rangle, in  which  175,000  stand  of  arms  are  stored,  rivalling  in  their  sym- 
metrical arrangement  the  similar  collection  in  the  Tower  of  London. 


132  Route  SI. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


“ This  is  the  Arsenal.  From  floor  to  ceiling, 

Like  a huge  organ,  rise  the. burnished  arms  ; 

But  from  their  silent  pipes  no  anthem  pealing 
Startles  the  villages  with  strange  alarms. 

Ah!  what  a sound  will  rise  — how  wild  and  dreary  — 

When  the  death-anfrel  touches  those  swift  keys  I 

What  loud  lament  and  dismal  Miserere 
Will  mingle  with  their  awful  symphonies  !’* 

Longfellow. 

From  the  tower  of  the  Arsenal  is  gained  a fine  view  of  the  city  and  its 
environs.  Passes  for  a survey  of  the  shops,  &c.,  may  be  obtained  at  the 
Armory  office.  The  eight-hour  system  is  in  force  in  these  works,  although 
much  of  the  work  is  paid  for  by  the  piece.  1 M.  S.  E.  of  the  Armory  are 
the  Water-Shops,  where  the  heavier  labor  is  done,  and  where  the  gun- 
barrels  are  made  and  tested. 

Near  the  Armory,  on  the  S.  E.,  is  the  large  and  beautiful  Springfield 
Cemetery,  covering  about  40  acres.  Near  this,  on  the  S.,  is  Crescent 
Hill,  with  two  elegant  villas  and  an  extensive  and  pleasing  view. 

On  State  St.,  between  Main  St.  and  the  Armory  grounds,  are  several  fine 
buildings.  The  * Church  of  the  Unity  (on  the  r.)  is  one  of  the  noblest 
ecclesiastical  structures  in  the  State,  and,  with  its  cloistered  portico,  broad 
windows,  and  lofty  detached  tower  and  spire,  it  forms  a strikingly  beau- 
tiful object.  It  architecture  is  Gothic,  and  its  material  is  brown  stone. 
Just  above  the  church  is  the  unique  and  graceful  building  of  the  'High 
School,  and  opposite  the  church  is  the  * City  Free  Library,  with  its 
handsome  building.  A library  of  32,000  volumes  is  contained  in  a richly 
ornamented  and  well-arranged  hall,  while  on  the  floor  below  is  a Museum 
(open  Wednesday  and  Saturday,  2 - 5 P.  M.)  containing  900  stuffed  birds, 
120  stuffed  quadrupeds,  and  several  thousand  specimens  of  fossils,  fish, 
reptiles,  and  minerals.  There  are  also  cabinets  of  Indian  antiquities,  and 
several  captured  Confederate  flags.  Just  above  the  Library  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Michael.  Court  Square  is  near  the  centre  of 
the  city,  and  has  on  one  side  the  City  Hall,  containing  a hall  which  can 
contain  3,000  persons.  S.  of  Court  Square  is  the  * Court  House  of 
Hampden  County,  a massive  new  structure  of  granite,  costing  $ 200,000. 
It  has  a tall  tower,  balconies,  and  other  features  drawn  from  Italian 
municipal  palaces.  The  1st  Congregational  Church  (society  founded  1637) 
fronts  on  this  square.  In  1 M.  from  the  City  Hall,  passing  N.  W.  on  the 
busy  and  attractive  Main  St.,  one  reaches  Round  Hill  and  the  Memorial 
Church,  built  of  granite  in  Gothic  architecture.  Hampden  Park,  near 
by,  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  has  fine  race- tracks,  and  is  used  for  cattle- 
shows. 

There  are  several  fine  churches  in  the  city  besides  those  mentioned  (20 
churches  in  all).  There  are  9 Masonic  bodies,  4 of  Odd  Fellows,  7 banks 
of  deposit,  and  3 savings  banks.  The  valuation  of  the  city  in  1872  was 
$30,000,000,  and  during  the  same  year  its  merchants  had  $20,000,000 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21.  133 


wortli  of  wholesale  trade,  mostly  from  the  valley  towns  which  draw  their 
supplies  from  this  point. 

In  1870  Springfield  had  300  manufacturing  companies,  employing  4,000  men  and 
1,000  women.  Among  the  principal  works  are  those  of  Smith  and  Wesson,  where 
600  men  are  employed  in  making  pistols.  This  company  received  in  1873  orders 
from  the  Russian  government  for  40,000  revolvers.  At  Brighuwood  (N.  of  the 
city)  is  the  Wason  Car  Manufactory,  whose  buildings  required  2,000,000  bricks  in 
their  construction.  These  works  employ  400  men,  and  turn  out  100  passenger 
and  900-1,000  freight  cars  yearly,  besides  many  thousand  car-wheels.  They  have 
made  most  of  the  cars  for  the  Pacific  Railroad  and  the  New  Jersey  Central,  and 
also  a superb  car  for  the  Egyptian  Khedive.  Nearly  800  men  were  engaged  in 
this  city,  during  the  Secession  War,  in  the  manufacture  of  saddles  and  heavy 
harness  for  the  army.  They  delivered  to  the  government  $2,500,000  worth  of 
those  articles.  At  present  about  200  men  are  employed  in  making  trunks  and 
harness. 

Station,  Longmeadow  (the  Indian  Massacsic),  settled  in  1644  on  the 
long  meadows  by  the  Connecticut.  It  is  a pretty  village  on  a gentle 
swell  near  the  intervales,  and  its  people  are  devoted  to  farming. 

The  State  of  Conn,  is  now  entered,  and  the  train  stops  at  Thompson- 
ville  (Globe  Hotel),  the  seat  of  the  largest  carpet-works  in  the  country. 
Since  1828  this  industry  has  been  growing,  until  now  it  uses  up  900  tons 
of  imported  wool  each  year,  and  turns  out  1,800,000  yards  of  ingrain  and 
Venetian  carpets,  from  141  looms.  3-4  M.  E.  of  this  village  is  the  large 
community  of  the  Enfield  Shakers.  The  village  of  Enfield  (settled  by 
Salem  men,  in  1681)  is  a short  distance  S.  of  Thompsonville. 

Station,  Warehouse  Point,  where  the  line  crosses  the  Conn.  River  by 
the  * Iron  Truss  Bridge,  a noble  piece  of  engineering,  built  jn  Manchester, 
England,  and  set  up  here  in  1866.  The  road-bed  of  18  ft.  wide  is  sus- 
tained 47  ft.  above  the  water  by  wrought-iron  trusses,  held  up  by  17 
granite  piers.  The  bridge  is  1,525  ft.  long  and  cost  $ 265,000. 

At  Hazardville,  a few  miles  N.  E.,  are  the  powder-works  of  Col.  Hazard.  These 
are  the  largest  in  England  or  America,  and  the  former  country  bought  $ 1,250,009 
worth  of  Hazard’s  powder  during  the  Crimean  War,  while  vast  amounts  were 
made  for  the  United  States  during  the  Secession  War. 

Station,  Windsor  Locks  (Charter  Oak  House),  with  iron  and  paper 
mills  on  the  water-power  afforded  by  a canal  built  before  the  era  of  rail- 
roads to  enable  vessels  to  pass  the  Enfield  Falls  and  gain  the  Upper  Conn. 
Tourists  were  formerly  carried  from  Springfield  to  New  Haven  in  * small 
steamboats  by  this  route.  The  line  crosses  the  Farmington  River  by  a 
fine  seven-arched  bridge  of  red  sandstone,  450  ft.  long. 

Station,  Windsor  (Alford  House),  settled  in  1633-6  by  men  of  Dor- 
chester, on  the  rich  intervales  of  Mattaneag. 

In  addition  to  harassments  from  the  ten  Indian  tribes  with  their  2,000  bowmen 
who  lived  about  Mattaneag,  the  little  colony  was  early  attacked  by  70  Holland 
troops,  sent  by  Gov.  Van  T wilier.  The  Dutch  expedition  retired  before  the 
firm  and  fearless  Puritans,  and  the  Indians  soon  sold  out.  Rev.  John  Warham, 
the  pastor-chief,  who  led  this  nomadic  Dorcestrian  Church  in  its  14  days’  march 
through  the  wilderness,  was  the  first  of  the  New  England  clergy  who  used  notes  in 
preaching.  In  1644  a road  was  built  to  Northampton,  freight  by  sea  to  or  from 


1 34  Route  21. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Boston  costing  at  this  time  33  per  cent  ad  valorem.  Matthew  Grant  came  from 
England  to  Dorchester  in  1630,  and  thence  \yent  to  Windsor.  The  family  lived 
here  for  over  a century,  until  Noah  Grant  was  killed  in  the  battle  of  Lake  George 
(1755).  This  officer  was  the  great-grandfather  of  President  Grant.  Roger  Wol- 
cott and  his  son  Oliver,  governors  of  Conn.  1751-4,  and  1796-7,  were  born  here. 
Oliver  Ellsworth,  U.  S.  Senator,  1789  - 95,  and  afterwards  Chief  Justice  of  the 
U.  S.,  was  born  here  in  1745.  Another  native  of  Windsor  was  Gen.  Phelps,  who, 
with  his  associates,  bought  of  Mass,  and  Conn.  5,500,000  acres  of  the  Western 
wilderness,  at  a nominal  price.  These  tracts  were  laid  off  in  townships  and 
ranges,  and  sold  to  settlers.  They  now  comprise  the  counties  of  Ontario  and 
Steuben  (New  York),  and  the  Western  Reserve  of  Ohio. 

There  is  a long,  broad  Green  near  the  station,  near  which  are  the  Wol- 
cott and  Moore  mansions,  and  the  new  Episcopal  Church,  and  just  over  the 
river,  is  the  old  Cong.  Church  and  the  Green  which  was  the  cradle  of 
Windsor,  and  is  still  called  the  Palisado.  This  town  grows  much  tobacco, 
of  which  5,830,000  pounds  were  raised  in  the  county  in  1870. 


Hartford. 

Hotels.  — * Allyn  House,  a fine  brownstone  building  near  the  station,  ac- 
commodating 300  guests.  $4.00  a day;  * City  Hotel,  on  Main  St.,  $3.00  a day; 
the  United  States  and  the  American  Hotels,  on  the  old  State  House  Square. 

Railroads. — The  present  route  to  S}  ringfield  and  Boston  (124  M.),  New 
Haven  and  New  York  (109  M.)  ; the  Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill,  to  Provi- 
dence on  the  E.  (90  M.)  and  Waterbury  on  the  W.  (32  M.)  ; the  Conn.  Valley  R.  R. 
to  Saybrook  Point  (44  M.)  ; the  Conn.  Western,  to  Salisbury  and  Millerton  (69  M.). 

Steamers.  — Daily  to  the  river-landings  and  Sag  Harbor  (Long  Island)  in  the 
morning  ; daily,  in  the  afternoon,  for  the  lower  landings  ; daily  for  the  river- 
landings  and  New  York  City. 

Stages  to  Farmington,  Broad  Brook  (14  M.),  Wethersfield,  Rocky  Hill,  Crom- 
well, Marlboro  (20  M.)  ; to  Bloomfield  and  Simsbury,  N.  Canton,  and  W.  Hartland 
(30  M.). 

Horse-Cars  run  along  Main  St.  from  Spring  Grove  Cemetery  to  Wethersfield 
(7  M.),  also  from  the  New  York  steamboat  pier,  at  the  foot  of  State  St.,  through 
State  and  Asylum  Sts.  2 M.,  passing  the  R.  R.  Station  and  the  Deaf  and  Dumb 
Asylum. 

Carriages  cost  50c.  a course  in  the  city,  75c.  for  2 persons,  and  $1.00  for  3 
persons.  Double  fares  between  12  and  6 at  night.  By  the  hour,  $2.00. 

Amusements  and  lectures  frequently  at  Roberts’  Opera  House  (an  elegant 
auditorium),  395  Main  St.,  or  at  Allyn  Hall,  on  Asylum  St.  near  the  Allyn  House. 

Post  Office  at  252  Main  St.  Masonic  Hall  at  395  Main  St. 

* Tlie  Park  (45  acres)  is  a pleasant  resort  in  the  afternoon.  It  is  reached  by 
several  stone  bridges  over  Park  River,  and  has  cost  the  city  $ 270,000. 

Connecticut  was  first  explored  by  the  Dutch,  one  of  whose  sturdy  mariners, 
Adrian  Black,  ascended  the  Conn.  River  as  far  as  the  Enfield  Falls  in  the  16-ton 
yacht,  Onrest”  (1614).  In  1633  the  Dutch  built  a 2-gun  fort,  called  the  “Hirse 
of  Good  Hope,”  on  the  present  site  of  Hartford,  and  lived  peaceably,  tilling  the 
ground  and  trading  with  the  Indians,  until  June,  1636,  when  Thomas  Hooker  led 
his  church  from  Newtown  through  the  wilderness,  and  settled  here.  The  Park 
River  afforded  a water-power  for  a grist-mill,  which  was  speedily  utilized,  and 
Windsor  and  Wethersfield,  previously  more  important,  brought  their  grain  here 
to  be  ground.  The  colony  was  named  for  an  old  Saxon  town  21  M.  N.  of  London, 
derived  from  “the  Ford  of  Harts.”  Three  watch-towers  were  built,  and  the  men 
of  the  colony  enrolled  in  train-bands,  two  thirds  of  whom  had  matchlocks, 
bandoleers,  and  rests,  while  the  other  third  were  armed  with  pikes  10  ft.  long,  and 
guarded  the  standard.  These  train-bands  stormed  the  breach  intheNarragansett 
Fort  fight.  Wahquimacut,  sachem  of  the  river  tribes,  deeded  the  lands  to  the 
settlers,  and  gave  them  a tribute  of  beaver-skins  and  corn,  in  return  for  their  pro- 
tection against  Pekoath,  king  of  the  Pequots,  and  the  dreaded  Mohawks.  Under 
the  influence  of  her  stern  Puritan  pastors,  Hartford  enacted  the  “ Blue  Laws,”  by 


■:  . ' ■ 


■ 

/ 


* 

' 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21.  1 35 


which  the  penalty  of  death  was  visited  for  the  crimes  of  idolatry,  unchastity, 
witchcraft,  blasphemy,  murder,  man-stealing,  rebellion,  smiting  parents,  &c., 
with  savage  laws  against  Sabbath-breaking  and  the  use  of  tobacco.  In  1765,  a 
stamp-agency  was  established  here,  but  it  was  speedily  broken  up  by  an  irruption 
of  200  armed  riders  from  Windham  County.  In  1790  -1800  the  town  became  an 
important  point  on  the  great  Atlantic  stage-road,  and  16  lines  of  stages  centred 
here.  De  Warville  wrote  here,  “ In  Conn.  Nature  and  Art  have  displayed  all  their 
treasures  ; it  is  really  the  Paradise  of  the  U.  S.  ” ; and  among  other  products  of 
the  State,  lie  speaks  enthusiastically  of  “ the  fair  Conn,  girls.”  In  December, 
1815,  the  infamous  Hartford  Convention,  composed  of  26  delegates  from  the 
States  of  New  England,  met  here,  to  deliberate  about  crippling  the  general  gov- 
ernment in  the  war  with  England,  to  which  war  many  of  the  people  in  this 
section  were  opposed.  In  1799  Hartford  had  a valuation  of  $751,533,  and  in 
1818  its  population  was  6,500,  at  which  time  a writer  predicts  “that  it  will  con- 
tinue to  extend  its  size,  its  interests,  and  its  consequence.” 

Hartford,  “ The  Queen  City  of  New  England,”  is  a semi-capital  of  the 
State  of  Conn.,  and  is  finely  situated  on  low  hills  at  the  junction  of  the 
Park  and  Conn.  Rivers.  It  is  noted  for  its  benevolent  and  educational 
institutes,  its  extensive  manufactures,  and  its  powerful  insurance  com- 
panies. The  population  is  38,000. 

Trinity  College  is  a wealthy  Episcopalian  institution,  founded  in 
1823,  and  in  1871  having  15  instructors  and  92  students.  This  was  first 
known  as  Washington  College,  and  in  1872  it  had  3 long,  brownstone 
buildings  (Seabury,  Jarvis,  and  Brownell  Halls)  on  the  site  sold  for  the 
present  new  State  House.  These  halls  stood  on  a beautiful  summit  over 
the  Park,  on  which  the  State  House  is  to  be  erected.  This  will  be  a 
noble  building,  in  the  architecture  known  as  the  Secular  Gothic  (whose 
best  forms  are  seen  in  the  Hotels  de  Ville  of  Belgium),  after  plans  by 
Upjohn,  of  New  York.  On  this  hill  is  a colossal  * statue  of  Bishop 
Brownell  (founder  of  the  College,  and  Bishop  of  Conn.,  1819-65)  in  his 
episcopal  robes.  The  statue  (11  ft.  high)  is  of  bronze,  and  was  made  at 
Munich.  The  Episcopal  church  is  stronger  (proportionally)  in  Conn, 
than  in  any  other  State. 

The  Congregational  Theological  Institute  (founded  1834,  and  has 

graduated  290  men)  is  back  of  the  Wadsworth  Athenseum. 

Of  the  30  churches  of  the  city,  several  are  adorned  with  ivy  of  great 
luxuriance.  The  1st  Presbyterian  is  a neat  Romanesque  building  of  Conn, 
granite  and  Ohio  stone,  and  the  following  are  built  of  red-stone,  in  Gothic 
forms:  Christ,  St.  John’s,  Trinity,  Incarnation,  the  1st  M.  E.,  the  South 
Baptist  (with  a fine  portico  supported  by  Caen  stone  columns),  the  Pearl 
St.  Cong,  (with  a spire  212  ft.  high).  The  three  Cong,  churches  on  Main 
St. , the  1st  Church  (organized  in  1633),  the  South  Church  (organized  in 
1669),  and  the  4th  Church  have  fine  buildings.  The  * Park  Cong.  Church 
is  of  sandstone,  in  the  early  English  Gothic  style,  with  stone  columns  along 
the  aisles,  and  a timber  roof.  The  Catholics  have  2 large  stone  churches 
(St.  Peter’s  and  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick),  and  are  about  to  build  an 
elegant  new  Cathedral.  The  * Church  of  the  Good  Shepherd  (Episco- 


136  Route  ^1. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YOKE. 


pal),  built  by  Mrs.  Colt  as  a memorial  of  her  husband  and  children,  is  a 
gem  of  Gothic  architecture,  built  of  Portland  stone  trimmed  with  Ohio 
white  stone,  with  a spire  150  ft.  high,  containing  a sweet  chime  of  bells. 
The  W.  front  has  a grand  memorial  window,  in  the  centre  St.  Joseph 
carrying  the  child  J esus,  above  which  is  an  angel  with  3 children ; on  the 
1.  the  angel  of  the  resurrection,  on  the  r.  a singing  angel.  The  clerestory 
windows  are  low  and  brilliant,  while  the  chancel  windows  represent  Christ 
and  the  12  Apostles.  The  chancel  is  separated  from  the  organ  (on  the 
r.)  and  the  baptistery  (on  the  1.)  by  columns  of  Scotch  granite.  The 
* baptismal  font  is  sustained  by  a group  of  marble  cherubs. 

The  High  School  is  near  the  Park  in  a noble  * building  of  Norman  and 
French  architecture,  finished  in  1869,  at  a cost  of  $ 160,000.  Near  it,  and 
on  Asylum  St.  (also  near  the  R.  It.  station,  with  its  Italian  campaniles) 
is  the  mansion  long  occupied  by  Mrs.  Sigourney,  the  poetess.  The  city  is 
about  to  erect  on  the  Park  a statue  of  Dr.  Horace  Wells,  one  of  the  dis- 
coverers of  surgical  anaesthesia. 

Back  of  the  Cong.  Church,  opposite  the  Athenaeum,  is  the  ancient 
graveyard  (entrance  to  the  r.  of  the  church).  Here  are  many  graves  of 
the  17th  and  18th  century,  with  a massive  sandstone  monument  to  the 
memory  of  the  first  settlers.  Two  tables  (on  the  r. ) cover  the  remains  of 
Thomas  Hooker,  “ the  renowned  minister  of  Hartford  and  pillar  of  Conn., 
the  Light  of  the  Western  Churches  ” (Mather)  ; and  of  Samuel  Stone,  a 
divine  who  died  here  in  1633,  and  whose  epitaph  begins, 

“ New  England’s  glory  and  her  radiant  crowne 
Was  he,  who  now  on  softest  bed  of  downe. 

Till  glorious  resurrection  morn  appeare. 

Doth  safely,  sweetly  sleepe  in  Jesus  here.” 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institute  was  founded  by  Dr.  Gallaudet  in  1817, 
and  is  the  oldest  in  America.  The  building  (130  by  50  ft.)  was  erected 
in  1820,  and  stands  on  an  embowered  hill  near  the  It.  It.  station,  on 
Asylum  St.  It  has  200  - 250  inmates.  The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  (es- 
tablished 1824)  is  a stately  building  of  sandstone  covered  with  gray 
cement,  in  the  S.  W.  part  of  the  city.  From  its  great  elevation,  its 
vicinity  commands  fine  valley-views.  It  has  received  over  4,000  patients, 
and  has  discharged  2,000  as  cured.  The  City  Hospital  is  near  the  Retreat, 
and  is  a large,  plain,  and  commodious  building  of  sandstone.  In  the 
opposite  section  of  the  city  (Upper  Main  St.)  is  the  State  Arsenal , the 
Widows’  Home,  and  the  extensive  North  Cemetery. 

The  old  State  House  Square  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  Here  stands 
the  State  House , a homely  old  structure  of  brick,  which  dates  from  1794. 
In  its  Senate  chamber  the  Hartford  Convention  assembled  in  1815.  The 
Secretary’s  office  contains  the  original  royal  charter,  framed  in  wood  of 
the  Charter  Oak.  In  the  Senate  Chamber,  also,  besides  Stuart’s  picture 
of  Washington,  and  portraits  of  the  governors  of  Conn,  from  1635  to  1870, 
is  a large  chair  made  of  the  same  wood. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21 . 137 


In  Oct.  1687,  Sir  Edmund  Andros,  the  royal  governor  of  New  England,  entered 
Hartford  with  his  troops,  and  demanded  the  royal  charter,  the  only  safeguard  of 
the  liberties  of  Conn.  During  a stormy  evening-meeting  the  lights  were  suddenly 
extinguished,  and  a bold  colonial  gentleman  seized  the  charter  and  fled  forth. 
He  hid  it  in  a hollow  in  an  oak-tree,  and  there  it  stayed  until  Andros  had  left  the 
town  in  great  anger.  The  charter  was  ever  after  preserved,  and  the  tree  was  held 
in  increasing  veneration  until  1856,  when  it  was  blown  down  in  a storm.  Its 
place  is  now  marked  with  a marble  slab. 

Mark  Twain  asserts  that  in  a late  visit  to  Hartford  he  saw  articles  as  follows 
made  from  this  tree  : “a  walking-stick,  dog-collar,  needle-case,  three-legged  stool, 
boot-jack,  dinner-table,  ten-pin  alley,  tooth-pick,  and  enough  Charter  Oak  to 
build  a plank-road  from  Hartford  to  Great  Salt  Lake  City.” 

Near  the  State  House  Square,  on  the  N.  facing  Market  St.,  is  the  City 
Hall , in  the  Grecian  architecture,  but  dingy  in  appearance. 

The  old  State  House  is  to  be  removed  to  another  part  of  the  Square, 
and  an  extensive  government  building  will  be  erected  on  its  present  site. 

Opposite  State  House  Square  is  the  superb  granite  * building  of  the 
Conn.  Mutual  Insurance  Company,  recently  completed  at  a cost  of 
$7-800,000.  A short  distance  below  this  building  is  the  fine  granite 
block  belonging  to  the  Hartford  Fire  Ins.  Co.  On  Main  St.,  alongside  of 
the  Athenaeum,  is  the  lofty  * granite  palace  of  the  Charter  Oak  Insurance 
Co.,  which  cost  above  $700,000.  The  beautiful  halls  and  offices  within 
should  be  visited,  and  by  ascending  in  the  elevator  to  the  observatory  on  the 
roof  (a  courtesy  granted  by  the  company  ; small  fee  to  the  conductor  of 
the  elevator),  a fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  city  and  its  environs.  The 
elegantly  finished  sandstone  office  of  the  Etna  Ins.  Co.  is  nestled  alongside 
of  the  Charter  Oak  building.  There  are  21  insurance  companies  in  the 
city  (9  Life,  and  12  Fire),  having  an  aggregate  capital  amounting  to  scores 
of  millions. 

Wadsworth  Athenaeum. 

While  Arnold  was  plotting  at  West  Point  (1780),  Washington  and  Rochambeau 
were  making  plans  and  enjoying  hospitable  cheer  at  the  mansion  (in  Hartford)  of 
Col.  Wadsworth,  Commissary-General  of  the  Army.  Wadsworth’s  son  gave  the 
land,  after  removing  the  mansion,  for  a public  library,  and  the  present  building 
(of  Glastenbury  gneiss,  in  castellated  architecture)  was  * built  from  the  proceeds 
of  a popular  subscription  of  $ 52,000.  On  the  lower  floor  of  the  Athenaeum  is 
the  Statuary  Hall  (fee  25  c.),  containing  casts  of  Ganymede,  Washington,  Pan,  the 
Shepherd  Boy,  the  Truant,  Genevieve,  Calypso,  and  an  allegorical  figure  of  Com- 
merce, all  by  Bartholomew  (who  died  at  Naples,  1858).  Casts,  by  the  same  de- 
signer, of  Ruth  and  Naomi,  Hagar  and  Ishmael,  the  Morning  Star,  Belisarius  at 
the  Pincian  Gate.  There  are  also  casts  of  Schwanthaler’s  “Bavaria,”  and  small 
busts  (German)  of  Schon,  Murillo,  Correggio,  Velasquez,  Domenichino,  Raphael, 
Angelo,  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Ghirlandaja,  Fiesole,  Mozart,  Goethe,  Andrea  del 
Sarto,  Bellini,  Van  Dyk,  Rubens,  Francia,  Masaccio,  Perugino,  Claude  Lorraine, 
Poussin,  Van  Eyk,  Hemling,  Diirer,  Holbein,  and  Titian.  17  of  Rogers’s  statuettes 
occupy  one  long  shelf. 

Busts  (in  marble)  of  President  Fillmore,  and  * Diana,  by  Bartholomew  ; Wads- 
worth, Horace  Bushnell,  and  C.  H.  Olmstead,  by  Ives. 

Statues,  Stella,  and  * Sappho,  Bartholomew,  and  an  elaborate  work,  *Eve 
Repentant,  his  masterpiece.  She  is  sitting  with  head  bowed  and  hands  clasped 
in  contrition,  while  her  long,  luxuriant  hair  hangs  down  her  back,  and  a serpent 
is  seen  curling  about  her  on  the  ground.  The  statue  is  upon  an  octagonal  pedes- 
tal of  marble,  with  the  following  well-designed  bas-reliefs  : 1st  Panel,  Creation  of 
Woman  ; 2,  the  Temptation  ; 3,  the  Fall ; 4,  Hiding  from  God  ; 5,  the  Expulsion 
from  Eden  ; 6,  Lamentation  ; 7,  Tilling  the  Ground  ; 8,  the  First-Born. 


138  Route  21, 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


On  the  upper  floor  is  the  Picture  Gallery.  West  Wall.  93,  Quebec,  by  Church  ; 
94,  View  on  the  Susquehanna,  Church;  28,  Ecce  Homo;  119,  St.  Jerome;  2, 
Venice;  21,  George  Washington,  copy  from  Stuart,  by  Ellsworth;  58,  Feast  at 
Levi’s  House,  after  Paul  Veronese;  134,  Landscape,  Lanman;  120,  St.  Joseph  and 
Jesus,  after  Raphael ; 32,  Marie  Antoinette. 

South  Wall.  92,  Hartford  Puritans  in  the  Wilderness,  Church;  Burning  Ship 
at  Sea,  Jewett ; 4,  Battle  (17th  century)  ; Samson  in  Bonds  ; 1,  * Death  of  Warren 
at  Bunker  Hill,  Trumbull  (the  celebrated  historical  pictures  by  this  artist  have 
explanatory  charts  appended) ; 5,  Mrs.  Sigourney,  Trumbull ; 62,  Humboldt ; 
121,  Wellington  ; 80,  Oliver  Wolcott,  Stuart ; 2,  Battle  of  Trenton,  Trumbull;  87, 
W.  Ellery  Channing  ; 113,  Brutus  ; 91,  Christ  in  the  Temple,  Terry ; 49,  Sea  View 
in  Fog  ; 50,  Night-scene  at  Naples  (the  last  two  are  bright  “restored”  pictures, 
said  to  be  by  Vernet) ; 10,  Battle  of  Princeton,  Trumbull;  11,  * Death  of  Mont- 
gomery at  Quebec,  Trumbull ; 30,  Elevation  of  the  Cross,  after  Rubens ; 12,  Holy 
Family,  Trumbull;  86,  Joel  Hawes,  D.  D.  ; 90,  Horace  Bushnell,  D.  D. 

East  Wall.  Destruction  of  Jerusalem,  a large  picture,  22  x 14  ft.,  in  poor  light, 
but  full  of  study  (plans  on  the  tables  near),  by  Whiclielo;  27,  Ruth  and  Boaz  ; 95, 
Landscape,  Isham;  13,  Death  of  Jane  McCrea,  Vanderlyn. 

North  Wall.  128,  John  in  the  Wilderness,  Cole;  127,  White  Mountains,  Cole; 
123,  Marine  View,  Come;  129,  Cascade  in  the  Catskills,  Cole;  124,  The  Lady  of 
the  Lake,  Trumbull;  130,  Lake  Winnepesaukee,  Cole;  131,  View  on  TalcottMt., 
Cole;  34,  * View  of  Mt.  Etna,  at  sunrise, from  Taormina,  Cole;  15,  Americus  Ves- 
puccius  ; 16,  Columbus  ; * Benjamin  West,  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence;  39,  Declaration 
of  Independence  (small  artist’s  copy),  Trumbull;  89,  Landscajje  near  New  Haven  ; 
106,  Milton’s  Descent  of  Satan ; portraits  of  various  celebrities  of  the  State  of 
Conn. 

In  the  N.  wing  of  the  Athenaeum  is  the  Young  Men's  Institute,  with  a circulat- 
ing library  of  25,000  volumes,  and  a reading-room  (an  introduction  by  a member 
of  the  Institute  entitles  one  to  four  weeks’  use). 

The  Conn.  Historical  Society  has  its  rooms  in  the  S.  Wing  (open  daily  ; 
no  fees).  Besides  a large  library,  many  curiosities  are  kept  here,  among  which 
are,  King  Philip’s  club  ; Putnam’s  battle-sword ; bows,  arrows,  pikes,  swords, 
&c.,  of  six  Wars  ; old  German  missals  ; dress-suits  at  French  Court  of  Commissary 
Wadsworth  and  Commodore  McDonough  ; * Turkish  scimeter  with  coral  and 
ivory  hilt  and  silver  scabbard,  and  inscriptions  in  Arabic  and  Persian  ; gold  pen 
“worn  out  in  the  service  of  Washington  Irving”  ; a link  (3  ft.  long)  of  the  chain 
stretched  across  the  Hudson  in  1776 ; a foot-stove  of  1740  ; Elder  Brewster’s 
chest ; Standish’s  dinner-pot ; Putnam’s  tavern-sign ; British  shells  thrown  into 
Stonington  ; a mortar  captured  in  Mexico  ; relics  of  Nathan  Hale  and  Col.  Led- 
yard  ; Robbins  Bible  (1478) ; Farmington  church  drum  ; mail-bag  (A.  D.  1775) 
used  between  Hartford  and  New  Haven,  6x9  inches;  the  first  telegraphic  mes- 
sage sent  in  America  (from  Washington  to  Baltimore),  “ What  wonders  hath  God 
wrought  ” ; 13  Russian  medals  ; Continental  money  ; a pistol  from  Colt ; Confed- 
erate money  ; a number  of  the  “ Boston  News  Letter”  for  April  17, 1704  (the  first 
number  of  the  first  newspaper  in  America ; it  lasted  72  years)  ; numerous  por- 
traits, MSS.,  and  pieces  of  Charter  Oak;  Arnold’s  watch;  the  chair  in  which 
Lee  signed  the  capitulation  of  Appomattox  ; several  battle-flags  well  used ; the 
swords  of  Putnam  ; of  McDonough  (victor  in  the  battle  of  the  fleets  on  Lake 
Champlain);  of  Capt.  Ward,  of  the  U.  S.  Navy  (born  Hartford,  1806,  killed  in  the 
attack  on  Matthias  Point,  Va.,  June  27,  1861);  of  Commander  Rogers  (killed  in 
the  naval  assault  on  Fort  Sumter) , of  Col.  Russell  (of  the  10th  Conn.,  killed  at 
Roanoke,  1862)  ; of  Gen.  Sedgwick  (killed  at  Spottsylvania,  May  9,  1S64) ; and  of 
Gen.  Nathaniel  Lyon  (commander  of  the  U.  S.  Army  in  Missouri,  killed  at  the 
battle  of  Wilson’s  Creek,  Aug.  10,  1861).  Adjoining  this  room  is  the  hall  contain- 
ing a large  reference  library,  endowed  with  $ 100,000  by  David  Watkinson,  who 
died  in  1857. 

The  principal  manufactories  of  Hartford  are  the  Colt  Rifle  and  Pistol  Factory, 
which  has  $1,000,000  capital,  and  employs  800  hands.  Since  Col.  Colt’s  death  it 
has  been  run  by  a company,  of  which  Gen.  Franklin  is  President.  Its  immense 
buildings  are  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  city,  near  the  river,  from  whose  inundations 
they  are  guarded  by  a dike  (50  ft.  broad  at  the  top,  and  8,700  ft.  long),  which  cost 
$80,000.  The  Church  of  the  Good  Shepherd  is  near  by,  and  close  to  the  factory 
is  a colony  of  Swiss,  who  make  up  willow-ware  from  material  grown  here.  In  the 
W.  part  of  the  city  is  the  Sharp  Rifle  Manufactory,  employing  6 - 700  men,  which 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


Route  21.  139 


has  made  100,000  rifles  for  the  U.  S.,  besides  Ailing  large  orders  for  England,  Ger- 
many, Spain,  China,  Japan,  Mexico,  Peru,  and  Chili.  The  Wm.  Rogers  Co.  turns 
out  $ 800,000  worth  of  plated  spoons  and  forks  yearly  ; the  Ashmead  Gold-Beat- 
ing Co.  use  up  3,610  ounces  of  gold  yearly  ; the  Weed  Sewing-Machines  are  made 
to  the  number  of  20,000  ; the  Colt  Willow-Ware  Co.  have  75  acres  of  willow,  and 
turn  out  100  tons  of  ware  each  year  ; the  Coburn  Soap  Co.  produces  900  tons,  in 
40  varieties  ; and  the  great  publishing  houses  (subscription  books)  print  many 
score  thousand  volumes  yearly.  Hartford  is  also  an  important  market  for  wool 
and  topacco. 

The  city  has  17  banks,  7 Masonic  lodges,  4 lodges  of  Odd  Fellows,  3 of 
Knights  of  Pythias,  2 Grand  Army  Posts,  6 temperance  societies,  and  7 
elite  military  companies,  one  of  which,  the  Putnam  Phalanx,  is  widely 
famed.  Its  members  dress  in  antique  uniforms,  and  the  corps  (125  men) 
is  said  to  represent  $11,000,000.  The  city  has  more  wealth  in  propor- 
tion to  its  population  than  any  other  American  city,  and  its  society  is  of 
a high  and  cultivated  order. 

By  following  Main  St.  to  the  S.  beyond  St.  Peter’s  Church,  Armsmear 
is  soon  reached  (on  the  1.).  This  is  the  residence  of  the  Colt  family,  wTith 
spacious  grounds  adorned  with  groves,  lakes,  marble  statuary,  green- 
houses, and  a deer-park.  Near  the  mansion  is  a beautiful  * copy  (in 
bronze)  of  the  Amazon  and  Tiger,  at  the  Museum  in  Berlin.  About  3 M. 
beyond  is  ancient  Wethersfield,  settled  by  men  of  Watertown,  Mass.,  in 
1635.  At  1636,  the  first  Conn,  legislature  convened  here  declared  war 
against  the  Pequots.  The  old  Webb  mansion,  near  the  Cong.  Church, 
was  Washington’s  head-quarters,  and  here  frequent  and  protracted  councils 
of  the  French  and  American  officers  prepared  the  plans  which  ended  at 
Yorktown.  The  town  has  long  been  noted  for  its  great  crops  of  onions. 
Since  1826,  the  State  Prison  has  been  established  here. 

About  3 M.  S.  W.  of  the  city  is  Cedar  Grove  Cemetery,  on  a bare  and 
lofty  hill  commanding  views  of  the  Queen  City  and  the  valley  of  the 
Conn.  The  * Beach  Memorial  is  a beautiful  work  of  Italian  art.  A high 
base,  surrounded  by  elegant  bas-reliefs,  supports  a vase,  which  is  sheltered 
by  a tabernacle  in  red,  yellow,  and  white  marbles,  supported  by  columns 
of  Scotch  granite.  The  Clark  Monument  is  surmounted  by  a colossal 
bronze  Angel  of  the  Resurrection  (cast  in  Munich).  The  Russel  Monu- 
ment is  crowned  by  a life-size  and  life-like  seated  statue.  The  monument 
to  Col.  Samuel  Colt  (who  invented  the  revolving  pistol)  consists  of  a lofty 
Egyptian  column  of  Scotch  granite,  surmounted  by  a bronze  angel,  while 
on  the  pedestal  is  the  family  coat-of-arms  (a  colt  rampant,  with  a broken 
spear  in  his  mouth). 

Talcott  Mt.  is  about  9 M.  W.  The  estate  “Monte  Video  ” of  the  old  family 
of  Wadsworth  is  on  its  summit,  and  the  pretty  Gothic  villa  is  near  a “deep,  cold, 
crystalline  lake,”  on  the  brow  of  the  mt.  From  a neighboring  tower,  “you  have 
a glorious  * view  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  into  the  adjoining  States  of 
Mass,  and  N.  Y.  ; the  whole  surrounded  by  an  impurpled  outline  of  mts.  The 
Conn,  is  seen  sweeping  onward  like  a king,  through  its  fair  domain,  amid  the 
spires  of  numerous  towns  and  villages,  while,  by  the  aid  of  a glass,  the  sails  of 


140  Route  21. 


BOSTON  TO  NEW  YORK. 


the  vessels  in  the  port  of  Hartford,  and  the  movements  in  the  streets,  are  dis- 
tinctly visible.”  (Mrs.  Sigourney.)  “The  peculiarities  of  the  beautiful  and 
grand  scenery  of  Monte  Video  make  it  quite  without  a parallel  in  America,  and 
probably  with  few  in  the  world.  ” (Prof.  Silliman.  ) 

Rocky  Hill  (7  M.  S.)  presents  a remarkable  junction  of  trap-rock  and  sandstone. 
From  this  point  is  enjoyed  a rich  view  over  the  river  valley,  embracing  Wethers- 
field and  its  intervales,  Glastenbury  and  the  Lyme  Mts.,  N.  Hartford,  and,  40  M.  to 
the  N.,  the  Mts.  of  Tom  and  Holyoke.  The  ride  to  Rocky  Hill,  by  the  river-road, 
is  a favorite  one  with  the  Hartford  citizens.  ■* 

Other  excursions  are  to  Tumble-Down  Brook  (8  M.  W.),  to  E.  and  W.  Hartford, 
to  Glastenbury,  and  over  Newington  Mt.  S.  Windsor  ( 6 M.  N.)was  a depot  for 
prisoners  during  the  Revolution,  and  its  numerous  lines  of  elms  were  planted  by 
British  and  Hessian  captives,  under  the  direction  of  Lafayette.  Here  was  born 
John  Fitch,  inventor  and  builder  of  the  first  steamboat  in  America.  He  ran  a 
steamer-line  on  the  Delaware  River  from  1786  to  1790,  the  boat  making  8 M.  an 
hour.  Fulton’s  steamers,  the  “Clermont”  and  the  “Car  of  Neptune,”  were  put 
on  the  Hudson  in  1807.  50  years  ago  more  gin  was  made  in  E.  Windsor  than  in 

any  other  town  in  America. 

After  leaving  Hartford,  the  line  runs  S.,  leaving  the  river,  past  Newing- 
ton to  Berlin,  whence  branch  tracks  diverge  to  Middletown,  10  M.  on  the 
S.  E.,  and  New  Britain,  2J  M.  on  the  N.  (see  Route  11).  Berlin  village 
(S.  E.  of  the  station)  was  for  scores  of  years  the  home  of  the  peripatetic 
tin-pedlers  who  traversed  the  country  between  Mobile  and  Quebec.  The 
manufacture  of  tin-ware  originated  here  about  1775,  and  is  still  carried 
on.  The  heroic  Major  Hart  was  born  here,  who,  at  Gen.  St.  Clair’s  defeat 
on  the  Miami  River  (1791),  led  a battalion  of  the  2d  U.  S.  Infantry  (the 
rear-guard)  on  a fearful  charge,  in  which  he  and  nine  tenths  of  his  men 
were  killed.  At  E.  Berlin  are  the  works  of  the  American  Corrugated 
Iron  Co.  Percival,  the  poet,  was  bom  here  in  1795. 

Station,  Meriden  (Meriden  House),  a busy  little  city  midway  between 
Hartford  and  New  Haven.  Near  the  City  Hall  (E.  of  the  track)  are  sev- 
eral churches,  and  some  neat  villas  crown  the  heights  beyond.  The 
spacious  and  imposing  building  of  the  State  Reform  School  is  passed  by 
the  train  just  before  reaching  the  station.  The  highway  to  the  N.  passes 
Mt.  Lamentation,  and  then  runs  through  a narrow  pass  in  the  Blue  Mts. 
called  the  Cat  Hole,  1 M.  long.  Ice  is  found  near  this  deep  glen  through- 
out the  year.  West  Peak , 3 M.  from  the  city,  commands  a view  extend- 
ing from  Hartford  to  New  Haven,  and  over  Long  Island  Sound. 

The  Meriden  Britannia  Co.  has  6 large  buildings,  one  of  which  is  527  x 40  ft. 
1,000  hands  are  employed,  420  tons  of  nickel,  white  metal,  and  silver  are  used 
yearly,  and  $2,500,000  worth  of  wares  are  sent  out  every  year  to  all  parts  of  the 
world.  Ives,  Rutty,  & Co.  make  4,000  tons  of  tin-ware  yearly  ; the  Meriden 
Cutlery  Co.  (the  first  in  America)  employ  400  hands  ; Wilcox  & Co.  employ  300 
hands  in  making  balmorals,  hoops,  and  corsets  ; and  the  Malleable  Iron  Co.  and 
the  Parker  Shot-Gun  Co.  have  works  here. 

On  the  great  land  route  from  Boston  to  New  Haven,  Belcher  built  a fortified 
tavern  here  in  1660.  Levi  S.  Ives,  Episcopal  Bishop  of  North  Carolina  (1831  - 52), 
who  was  received  into  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  at  the  city  of  Rome  in  1852, 
was  a native  of  Meriden. 

After  Yalesville  is  Wallingford  Station  (Beacli  House,  an  elegant  sum- 
mer-house, formerly  the  home  of  M.  Y.  Beach,  proprietor  of  the  “ N.  Y. 


BOSTON  TO  ALBANY,  &c. 


Route  22.  141 


Sun” ; the  ancient  Washington  House  was  burned  in  May,  1872).  Daven- 
port preached  a sermon  at  the  founding  of  this  town  (in  1669)  from  the 
text,  My  beloved  hath  a vineyard  in  a very  fruitful  hill.”  On  that 
fruitful  hill  the  village  is  built,  with  a neat  town  hall,  a costly  Episcopal 
church,  and  a fine  modern  school-house,  besides  several  neat  villas. 
Manufactures  of  German-silver  ware,  Albata  plate,  &c. , are  carried  on  on 
the  plain.  The  Hanging  Hills  form  a lofty  and  picturesque  scene  to  the 
W.  of  the  village.  W.  of  the  station  (J  M.)  is  a branch  of  the  Oneida 
Community,  containing  about  50  persons,  on  an  estate  of  2 - 300  acres. 
They  believe  in  the  power  of  the  New  Testament  doctrines  to  render  men 
morally  perfect,  and  all  their  property  is  held  in  common.  The  object  of 
this  mission  colony  (which  receives  subsidies  from  Oneida)  is  to  propagate 
the  Oneida  tenets  in  New  England. 

The  line  follows  the  Quinnipiac  Valley  to  N.  Haven.  There  is  here  a 
Gothic  church  (Episcopal)  facing  the  Green,  near  which  is  the  house  where 
Dr.  Trumbull  the  historian  lived  for  50  years,  and  wrote  4,000  sermons 
and  several  books.  North  Haven  makes  several  million  bricks  yearly. 
The  train  soon  passes  East  Bock  (on  the  r. ),  crosses  Mill  Biver,  and  enters 
New  Haven. 

New  Haven  to  New  York,  see  Boute  8. 

22.  Boston  to  Albany,  Saratoga,  and  the  West. 

Via  the  Boston  and  Albany  Bailroad,  Bensselaer  and  Saratoga  B.  B.,  and  New 
York  Central  B.  B.  Boston  to  Albany,  202  M.  Fare,  $5.80.  Boston  to  Saratoga, 
240  M. 

This  is  the  favorite  route  running  W.  from  Boston,  and  will  long  hold  this  posi- 
tion, since  the  principal  inland  cities  of  Massachusetts  are  on  its  line.  When  its 
construction  was  first  talked  of,  the  “ Boston  Courier  ” derided  the  scheme,  saying 
that  it  could  be  built  only  at  an’“  expense  little  less  than  the  market  value  of  the 
whole  territory  of  Massachusetts,  and  which,  if  practicable,  every  person  of  com- 
mon-sense knows  would  be  as  useless  as  a railroad  from  Boston  to  the  moon.” 
Yet  the  work  went  on,  the  road  was  completed  to  Worcester  in  1835,  to  Spring- 
field  in  1839,  and  to  Albany  in  1842.  The  admirable  appointments  and  organiza- 
tion of  this  route,  and  its  immunity  from  accidents,  have  given  it  a wide  reputa- 
tion and  an  extensive  patronge. 

The  Station  in  Boston  is  on  the  corner  of  Beach  and  Lincoln  Sts.  (PI. 
35). 

After  emerging  from  the  city,  the  line  crosses  the  Providence  Bailroad 
(Boute  8)  on  the  Back  Bay  lands,  and  passes  the  junction  of  the  Woon- 
socket Bailroad  (2  M.  out).  A fine  panoramic  view  is  gained  by  a back- 
ward glance  from  the  windows  on  the  r.  of  the  car,  embracing  the  ancient 
academic  city  of  Cambridge,  with  the  heights  of  Somerville  and  Charles- 
town, while  much  of  Boston  is  visible  to  the  rear. 

For  the  itinerary  between  Boston  and  Springfield,  see  Boute  21. 

The  line  crosses  the  Connecticut  Biver  on  a long  bridge  just  after  leav- 
ing Springfield,  and  follows  the  valley  of  the  Agawam  Biver  past  W. 


142  Route  23. 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Springfield  Station  (a  manufacturing  village;  Agawam  Hotel)  to  West- 
field  (Willmarth  House,  Westfield  House).  The  Indian  domain  of  Woro- 
noco  was  settled  by  the  English  in  1660,  and  called  Streamfield,  from 
the  abundance  of  its  waters,  but  later,  the  Legislature  named  it  Westfield, 
as  the  most  westerly  of  the  settlements.  Late  in  King  Philip’s  War,  the 
colonial  council  ordered  that  this,  and  all  the  other  valley  towns,  should 
be  evacuated,  and  that  their  inhabitants  should  concentrate  at  Springfield 
and  Hadley.  An  angry  refusal  was  returned,  and  the  towns  negotiated 
for  union  with  Conn,  until  the  obnoxious  edict  was  repealed.  Westfield 
built  a fort  and  stood  her  ground.  At  present  it  is  a busy  village,  where 
32  firms  make  2,500,000  whips  a year,  and  8 - 12,000,000  cigars  are  an- 
nually made.  The  State  Normal  School  located  here  has  160  - 200  stu- 
dents, and  is  of  high  reputation.  Several  churches  front  on  the  Green, 
which  is  adorned  by  a monument  by  which  “ Westfield  honors  the 
memory  of  her  sons  who  have  fallen  in  defence  of  Liberty,  Union,  and 
Independence,  1861  to  1865.”  The  pedestal  bears  the  arms  of  the  State 
and  of  the  Union,  and  a list  of  the  slain,  and  is  surmounted  by  a bronze 
soldier,  of  heroic  size.  The  village  is  situated  in  a beautiful  valley  by  the 
Westfield  River,  J M.  S.  of  the  station.  The  New  Haven  and  North- 
ampton Railroad  crosses  the  line  at  this  point. 

The  line  now  runs  up  the  valley  of  the  Westfield  River,  passing 
Pochassic  Hill  and  Mt.  Tekoa  on  the  r.,  and  stops  at  Russell  (Russell 
House),  in  a mountainous  town.  Station,  Huntington  and  Chester,  after 
which  the  line  passes  into  Berkshire  County  (see  Route  23).  Beyond  the 
borders  of  Berkshire  and  of  Massachusetts  the  line  enters  New  York  State, 
and  connects  at  Chatham  with  the  Hudson  and  Boston  R.  R.  and  the 
Harlem  R.  R.  From  Chatham,  it  runs  N.  Y?.,  through  Kinderhook  and 
Schodack,  to  Greenbush,  and  thence  crossing  the  Hudson  on  a noble  bridge, 
enters  the  city  of  Albany. 

Connections  are  here  made  with  the  New  York  Central  R.  R.  for  the  West,  and 
with  other  routes  for  New  York,  Saratoga  Springs,  &c.  Also  with  the  Hudson 
River  boats.  From  Albany  to  Utica,  95  M.  ; to  Rome,  109  M.  : to  Syracuse,  147 
M.  ; to  Rochester,  250  M.  ; to  Buffalo,  297  M.  ; to  Niagara  Falls,  305  M.  ; to  De- 
troit, 536  M.  ; to  Chicago,  820  M.  These  distances  are  calculated  on  the  N.  Y. 
Central  R.  R. , and  the  Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Southern  R.  R.  (via  Toledo  and 
Cleveland),  which  it  meets  at  Buffalo.  By  the  same  route  and  the  shortest  lines 
beyond,  the  whole  distance  from  Boston  to  Niagara  Falls  is  507  M.  : to  Chicago, 
1,022  M.  ; to  St.  Louis,  1,302  M.  ; to  Omaha,  1,515  M.  ; to  San  Francisco,  3,429  M. 


23.  The  Berkshire  Hills. 

This  district  will  be  considered  in  connection  with  its  railway  system,  whose 
various  lines  will  be  treated  of  independently  of  tlieir  connections  beyond  the 
county  limits. 

The  Berkshire  Hills  form  a beautiful  and  picturesque  district  of  mountains  and 
lakes,  abounding  in  charms  for  the  lover  of  nature.  Thousands  of  city  people 
flock  hither  every  summer,  and  rest  and  relax  amid  scenes  so  peaceful  and  attrac- 
tive. The  best  time  for  a visit  here  is  in  October,  “ when  the  holiday  hills  lift 


1 


% 


Hijyp  w wi^i 

18  72. 

WITH  AIL  THE  LATEST  iMFF 


/ puftesi 

^•akte. 


-EM  ENTS 


A COMPLETE  GlliQE  TO  STR.A  KiGER.S 

'.n  u„(  t)„  ,h. dnu.es  from  r}tx  {// 

th.dmcth  V"f/o/,/s  J),blrr  fieriithtet/*  Stern 
Ur/tvl  fir'lHu/neiKs . «T  /Veters  ff^Atin’.'tOU/t 
PUBLISHED  FOR  JAMES  R OSCOOO  8~C‘  ~ ' RAN  Of  AS  GUIOE  TO  BOSTON’ 

pr  IrPSAlW  &€? 2182  WaSMI  LA pjfj C.  • “ TOK.M.AS* . 

. PUBLISHERS  • ' , «**• 

N ^ !-  iMIW 


A /fetter  ftni/jRond-i 


, dnidfdxntoSquores  marked  H ith  Letters  SRgures  rounditi  edge, 
’ , Hotels, RH-  Depots,  & Diases  of  Ann  s ement  art  numbered 

refers  to  these  JVirmDers  Athem  location.  m the  Squares  . 


/JhisMa 
RiHuJh  . 
the  Guide  tel 


V"|  Square 

; HOTELS  B 

N<? 

Square 

; FUCEIS  OFAlTUSE*  ES 

8 

I C !> 

; Revere 

40 

X 8 

| GlobeTheatre  ; 

10 

C . 9 

American 

42 

X 8 

S James  j 

18 

5.9 

Treinorit 

27 

D 8 

| Boston 

35 

E 9 

United  States 

25 

D 9 

| Music  Hall 

19 

D 9 

Parker's 

11 

C 9 

I Howard  Athenf 

28 

1 .8 

Adams 

15 

11  9 , 

Museum  . 

26 

n 9 

Marlboro 

so  I 

E .5.  1 

Coliseum  of  J872.  il 

47 

0.5 

Coin  ui  onweaith. 

PUB' BUILDS  M3 

20. 

D 9. 

Sherman 

13 

i D 8 

I State  House 

22 

D 9 

Parks 

16 

| L 10 

! FaneuilHall 

48 

0 5. 

S*  James 

3. 

E 8. 

I Public  Library.  j 

20 

D.9 

Young's. 

24 

D 10 

j Custom  House  | 

21 

D 10 

i Pyst  Office: 

4 

B 8 

1 Gent  Hospital.  ! 

RFRPDEPO?  mi 

[ D 9 

| City  Hall  !| 

29 

E 7 

Providence . 

[ D 9 

TrenuniT  Temple  jt 

6 

C 10 

'BostonhMkme 

D 6 

Natural  His  totySor 

2 

B.9 

Eastern 

44 

| D f» 

: New  Post  Office  | 

3 

B 9 

Lowell . 

•45 

1 K 8 

Masonic  Hall  | 

36 

F 9 

Old  Colony 

X 

i H 5 

Five  liti  Dns|>!tni 

1 

35 

B IQ 
F 8 

Fitchburg 
Boston  kAlbam 

49 

H l 

ftana's  thiumo  House 

39 

E9 

flartford&Ene 

Churches 

*■  Schools  Si? 

i Rail-Bo  ads  — — 

Horse, Retd  Rds  »»  Boundary*  87mA. 

i’ 

THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Route  23.  143 


their  wreathed  and  crowned  heads  in  the  resplendent  days  of  autumn.”  Says 
Beecher  of  this  season  in  Berkshire,  “ Have  the  evening  clouds,  suffused  with 
sunset,  dropped  down  and  become  fixed  into  solid  forms?  Have  the  rainbows 
that  followed  autumn  storms  faded  upon  the  mts.,  and  left  their  mantles  there? 
What  a mighty  chorus  of  colors  do  the  trees  roll  down  the  valleys,  up  the  hill- 
sides, and  over  the  mts. 

“ From  Salisbury  to  Williamstown  and  then  to  Bennington  in  Vermont,  there 
stretches  a county  of  valleys,  lakes,  and  mts. , that  is  yet  to  be  as  celebrated  as 
the  lake-district  of  England,  or  the  hill-country  of  Palestine.” 

Another  writer  says  : “ Berkshire  is  a region  of  hill  and  valley,  mt.  and  lake, 
beautiful  rivers  and  laughing  brooks,  — the  very  Piedmont  of  America.”  Godfrey 
Greylock  naively  writes,  “Somebody  has  called  Berkshire  the  Piedmont  of  Amer- 
ica. I do  not  know  how  just  the  appellation  may  be,  but  I do  know  that  if 
Piedmont  can  rightly  be  called  the  Berkshire  of  Europe,  it  must  be  a very  de- 
lightful region.” 

The  route  from  Boston  to  Central  Berkshire  is  by  the  Boston  and  Albany  R.  R. 
Distance  to  Pittsfield,  151  M.  ; fare,  $4.35. 

The  route  from  New  York  to  Berkshire  is  by  the  Housatonic  R.  R.  Distance 
to  Pittsfield  166  M.  Pittsfield  is  53  M.  from  Springfield  and  51  M.  from  Albany. 

“That  section  of  the  Western  R.  R.  which  traverses  the  wild  hills  of 
Berkshire  is  a work  of  immense  labor,  and  a wonderful  achievement  of 
art.  After  leaving  the  wide  meadows  of  the  Conn.,  basking  in  their  rich 
inheritance  of  alluvial  soil  and  unimpeded  sunshine,  you  wind  through 
the  narrow  valleys  of  the  Westfield  River,  with  masses  of  mts.  before 
you,  and  woodland  heights  crowding  in  upon  you,  so  that  at  every  puff 
of  the  engine  the  passage  visibly  contracts.  The  Alpine  character  of  the 
river  strikes  you.  At  Chester  you  begin  your  ascent  of  80  ft.  in  a mile 
for  13  M.  The  stream  between  you  and  the  precipitous  hillside,  cramped 
into  its  rocky  bed,  is  the  Pontoosne,  which  leaps  down  precipices,  runs 
forth  laughing  in  the  dimpling  sunshine,  and  then,  shy  as  a mountain 
nymph,  it  dodges  behind  a knotty  copse  of  evergreen.  In  approaching 
the  summit-level  you  travel  bridges  built  a hundred  feet  above  other 
mountain  streams,  tearing  along  their  deep-worn  beds  ; and  at  the  ‘ deep 
cut  ’ your  passage  is  hewn  through  solid  rocks,  whose  mighty  walls  frown 
over  you.” 

“We  have  entered  Berkshire  by  a road  far  superior  to  the  Appian  Way. 
On  every  side  are  rich  valleys  and  smiling  Hillsides,  and  deep  set  in  their 
hollows  lovely  lakes  sparkle  like  gems.”  (Miss  Sedgwick.) 

While  staging  through  this  part  of  Berkshire,  early  in  this  century, 
Captain  Marry att,  the  English  novelist,  derided  the  madness  of  “ certain 
crazy  spirits  who  have  conceived  the  idea  of  constructing  a railroad 
through  this  savage  region.  ” 

From  Tekoa  Mt.  to  Washington  Summit  the  track  rises  1,211  ft.,  or  82 
ft.  in  a mile  in  some  long  stretches.  The  first  station  is  Bechet,  in  the  N. 
of  a large  town  abounding  in  lakes,  from  one  of  which  flows  Farmington 
River,  which  makes  glad  so  much  of  Northern  Conn.  10  M.  S.  of  Becket 
Station  is  Otis  (two  inns),  with  the  island-studded  Great  Lake.  Station, 
Washington , among  the  hills  which  the  Indians  called  Tukonick.  The 
village  is  S.  of  the  station  in  a pretty  valley.  Station,  Hinsdale , in  a 


144  Route  23. 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


large  town  (so  named  in  honor  of  its  first  pastor)  which  is  “more  pleasing 
to  the  lover  of  fine  mountain  scenery,  exhilarating  breezes,  and  crystal 
fountains,  than  to  the  farmer  in  quest  of  fortune.”  The  mts.  here  recede 
from  the  line  of  the  track,  and  the  tall  hills  of  Peru  are  seen  on  the  E. 
(r. ).  Station,  Dalton  (Eagle  Hotel),  originally  named  Dale-town,  which 
has  large  paper-factories.  From  Dalton  a highway  leads  to  Windsor. 
(Cleveland  House)  7 M.  N.  E.,  the  Indian  “ Ouschaukamaug,”  a loftily 
situated  village  in  a town  rich  in  Saxony  and  Merino  sheep,  and  “noted 
for  the  longevity  of  its  inhabitants.”  About  3 M.  from  Dalton,  on  the 
Windsor  road,  are  the  Wahconah  Falls,  where  a mt.  stream  falls  in  3 leaps 
over  an  80-ft.  cliff  of  gray  marble.  5 M.  beyond  Dalton  the  train  passes 
Silver  Lake,  and  stops  at  the  costly  and  handsome  station  in  Pittsfield. 

Hotels.  American  House,  on  the  Main  St.,  120  guests,  at  $10-15,00  a 
week  ; Burbank  House,  opposite  the  station,  $9  - 12.00  a week.  Good  restau- 
rant in  the  station. 

Pittsfield  is  a beautiful  city  of  11,113  inhabitants,  and  is  the  centre  and 
capital  of  Berkshire  County.  It  was  settled  about  the  middle  of  the  last 
century  (1752)  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Pontoosuc,  and  in  1761  it  re- 
ceived its  present  name,  in  honor  of  William  Pitt,  the  English  statesman 
and  friend  of  America. 

In  1844  the  Berkshire  Jubilee  was  held  here,  calling  in  thousands  of  the  sons  of 
the  county  from  all  parts  of  the  Union  ; and  on  Sept.  24,  1872,  the  largest  multi- 
tude ever  seen  in  Berkshire  gathered  here  at  the  dedication  of  the  Soldiers’ 
Monument.  At  sunrise  the  church-bells  rang,  and  37  guns  were  fired,  and  the 
procession  included  8 bands  of  music,  detachments  from  9 veteran  regiments,  the 
2d  Mass.  Militia  reg.,  and  2 Commanderies  of  Knights  Templar.  G.  W.  Curtis 
was  the  orator  of  the  day.  “The  soldiers’  monuments  of  the  late  war,  happily 
arising  in  every  town  and  in  every  village,  with  the  beautiful  rites  of  Decoration 
Day,  hallowing  the  memory  of  heroes,  are  like  the  spring  of  liberty,  flowing 
everywhere  in  the  land.”  The  monument  consists  of  a massive  pedestal  on  which 
is  a bronze  statue  of  a lithe  young  soldier  in  fatigue  uniform,  standing  at  rest, 
with  his  left  hand  holding  a flag-staff,  and  the  right  hand  high  up  in  the  folds  of 
the  flag.  This  “Color-Bearer  ” was  designed  by  Launt  Thompson,  and  cast  from 
the  metal  of  5 cannon  given  by  Congress  for  the  purpose.  The  pedestal  contains 
the  names  of  5 officers  and  90  men  who  died  in  the  field,  out  of  1,250  who  enlisted 
at  Pittsfield. 

“ A voice  from  lips  whereon  the  coal  from  Freedom's  shrine  hath  been, 

Thrilled,  as  but  yesterday,  the  hearts  of  Berkshire’s  Mountain  men  ; 

The  echoes  of  that  solemn  voice  are  sadly  lingering  still 
In  all  our  sunny  valleys,  on  every  wind-swept  hill. 

And  sandy  Barnstable  rose  up,  wet  with  the  salt  sea  spray  : 

And  Bristol  sent  her  answering  shout  down  Narragansett  Bay  ; 

Along  the  broad  Connecticut  old  Hampden  felt  the  thrill, 

And  the  cheer  of  Hampshire  s woodmen  swept  down  from  Holyoke  Hill. 

No  slave-hunt  in  our  borders  — no  pirate  on  our  strand  ! 

No  fetters  in  the  Bay  State  — no  slave  upon  our  land  /” 

Whittieb. 

The  monument  stands  in  the  Park,  a green  in  the  midst  of  the  city, 
which  is  called  the  heart  of  Berkshire. 

Here,  in  the  centre  of  an  elliptical  line  of  trees,  stood  the  Old  Elm, 
with  its  90  ft.  of  smooth  shaft,  and  concentric  rings  representing  340  years 
of  growth.  After  being  twice  thunder-smitten,  the  Old  Elm  became  un- 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Route  23.  145 


safe,  and  was  taken  down  in  1864,  amid  the  mourning  of  the  county.  On 
one  side  of  the  Park  is  the  Congregational  Church  (of  stone),  where  Dr. 
John  Todd  (a  powerful  and  prolific  writer)  preached,  1842-70.  Next  to 
it  is  St.  Stephen’s  Episcopal  Church.  At  the  end  of  the  Park  is  the 
elegant  white  marble  * Court  House,  which,  together  with  the  Jail  (in 
another  street),  cost  $ 400,000.  Near  the  Court  House,  and  fronting  the 
Park,  is  the  building  of  the  Berkshire  Athenaeum,  containing  a fine  library 
and  collections  of  local  curiosities.  On  the  corner  of  North  and  West  Sts., 
near  the  Park,  is  the  noble  building  of  the  Berkshire  Life  Insurance  Co. 
On  the  main  street  are  some  fine  business  buildings,  and  beyond  the 
American  House  is  the  small  but  handsome  marble  Cathedral  of  St. 
Joseph.  The  French  residents  have,  also,  a Catholic  Church  for  their 
hundred  families,  and  there  is  also  a German  Lutheran  Church.  Beyond 
St.  Joseph’s  is  the  Maplewood  Institute  (for  young  ladies),  “ whose  grace- 
ful chapel,  gymnasium,  and  half  ivy-covered  dwellings  gleam  white 
through  groves  and  avenues  of  famed  attractiveness.”  The  Springside 
School  (for  boys)  is  on  the  borders  of  Pittsfield,  in  pleasant  grounds.  At 
one  end  of  the  main  street  is  the  building  of  the  Berkshire  Medical  Insti- 
tute, established  in  1821  as  an  appanage  of  Williams  College,  but  long 
ago  discontinued.  The  Innisfallen  Greenhouse  (500  ft.  long)  has  a high 
reputation,  and  in  the  W.  suburb  is  the  Pittsfield  Pleasure  Park,  with  a 
race-course,  games  &c.  The  city  is  situated  on  a plateau  1,000  - 1,200 
ft.  above  the  sea,  and  surrounded  by  lofty  hills,  the  Taconics  on  the  W. 
and  the  Hoosacs  on  the  E.  Beautiful  villas  abound  in  the  suburban 
streets,  and  extensive  manufactures  of  cotton  and  woollen  cloths,  fire- 
arms, and  cars  furnish  employment  for  the  foreign  population.  The 
city  is  supplied  with  water  from  Lake  Ashley,  a little  romantic  loch 
which  lies  upon  the  summit  of  Washington  Mt.  (1,800  ft.  high),  7 M.  to 
the  S.  E.  Near  this  lake  is  West  Pond,  from  which  Roaring  Brook  flows 
down  through  Tories’  Gorge  to  the  Housatonic. 

Lake  Onota  (683  acres)  is  about  2 M.  W.  of  Pittsfield.  From  the  hill 
where  Ashley’s  Fort  stood,  a fine  view  is  enjoyed,  but  the  best  prospect  is 
from  a long  point  running  from  the  N.  shore,  to  which  locality  belongs  the 
legend  of  “The  White  Deer  of  Onota.” 

Pontoosuc  Lake,  “ the  haunt  of  the  winter  deer”  (575  acres),  is  3-4  M. 
N.  of  Pittsfield,  on  the  road  to  Williamstown  (20  M. ). 

Berry  Pond  is  to  the  N.  W.  in  Hancock.  “ Berry  Pond  does  not  derive  its 
name  from  the  strawberries,  blackberries,  and  raspberries,  which  by  their  abun- 
dance in  the  vicinity  would  justify  the  appellation,  but  from  an  obscure,  stout- 
hearted man  who  once  dwelt  upon  its  border,  and  wrung  subsistence  for  a large 
family  of  girls  out  of  the  margin  of  its  rocky  chalice.  Nothing  can  exceed  the 
beauty  of  this  pond.  Its  margin  is  sometimes  a beach  of  silvery  sand,  strewn 
with  blocks  of  snowy  quartz  and  delicate,  fibrous  mica  ; again  grassy  and  green  to 
the  water’s  edge;  and  yet  again  fringed  with  long  eyelashes  of  birch  and  hazel- 
trees,  that  dreamily  gaze  at  their  reflection  in  the  mirror.”  (Taconic.) 

South  Mountain  is  2 - 3 M.  S.  of  Pittsfield.  From  its  S.  summit  Greylock 
7 J 


146  Route  23. 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


is  seen  in  the  N.,  Mount  Oceola  and  Perry's  Peak  in  the  W.,  the  Lenox  Mt.  in  the 
S.,  and  the  Mts.  of  Washington  in  the  E.  The  city  is  close  at  hand  in  the  N.  with 
Lake  Onota  at  its  side.  Nearer  is  Melville  Lake,  or  Lilly  Bowl,  near  Lilly 
Ope,  so  named  from  an  old  Meg  Merrilies  of  a hermitess  named  Lilly,  who  once 
lived  in  the  valley. 

In  the  mts.  N.  W.  of  Pittsfield,  and  distant  several  miles,  are  some  romantic 
points.  Below  Mt.  Honwee  is  the  Promised  Land,  a name  given  with  grim  New 
England  humor  to  a tract  of  land  for  which  grants  were  long  promised  and 
longer  delayed.  On  its  W.  summit  is  a pretty  lakelet  whence  Lulu  Ope  (or  valley) 
may  be  descended  to  Lula  Cascade,  “ a foam-white  column  which  finds  its  base  in  a 
circular  pool  of  black  and  glossy  surface,  overhung  by  a gray  old  boulder,  and  by 
masses  of  tangled  foliage.”  S.  of  the  Promised  Land  is  the  Ope  of  Promise,  the 
nearest  (though  arduous)  path  to  Berry  Pond.  Then  comes  Arbutus  Hill  and 
Ope,  which  are  covered  with  arbutus  in  May,  and  beyond  them  is  Old  Tower  Hill, 
with  a tower  which  commands  a broad  view. 

S.  of  the  Lebanon  road  (which  runs  through  Lilly  Ope)  is  Boll  Mt.,  where  the 
Shakers  formerly  worshipped,  and  which  they  called  Mt.  Zion.  Silver  Lake  is  in 
the  E.  environs,  and  Sylvan  Lake  is  2-3  M.  E.  of  the  city.  The  larger  lakes  here- 
abouts are  prolific  in  pickerel,  but  the  trout  have  been  nearly  exterminated. 

O.  Wendell  Holmes  long  resided  at  a villa  2 M.  N.  of  the  city,  on  a small  farm 
remaining  from  24,000  acres  purchased  by  his  grandfather  in  1735.  Near  him 
lived  Herman  Melville,  the  rover,  and  author  of  sea-novels.  “ White  Jacket,” 
“ Moby  Dick,”  and  other  works  were  written  here,  where  he  resided  1850-60. 

William  Allen,  D.  B. , the  pastor,  poet,  and  biographer  (1820  - 39  Pres,  of  Bowdoin 
College),  was  born  at  Pittsfield  in  1784.  William  Miller  was  born  here  in  1781.  In 
1833  he  began  to  harangue  the  people  in  different  cities,  prophesying  the  coming 
of  the  millennium  in  1843.  He  built  up  a large  sect,  which  fell  to  pieces  when  the 
appointed  day  passed  and  was  seen  to  be  like  other  days. 

Near  the  station  of  Kichmond  are  the  remarkable  geological  phenomena  of 
Richmond  Valley,  consisting  of  seven  parallel  lines  of  boulders,  stretching  across 
the  valley  from  Perry’s  Peak  to  Lenox  Mt.  in  a S.  E.  direction.  This  feature  was 
carefully  studied  by  Sir  Charles  Lyell  (in  two  visits),  and  is  mapped  and  described 
in  his  “ Antiquity  of  Man.”  Perry’s  Peak  is  famed  for  its  superb  over-view. 

To  New  Lebanon  Springs  is  a favorite  excursion  from  Pittsfield.  By 
the  highway  the  distance  is  12-15  M.  ; the  railroad  route  is  circuitous, 
being  by  the  Albany  line  to  Chatham,  and  thence  up  the  Harlem  Ex- 
tension R.  R. 

Hotel. — Columbia  Hall,  a fashionable  and  elegant  summer-house. 

The  thermal  springs  at  New  Lebanon  have  won  an  excellent  reputation 
for  their  efficacy  in  diseases  of  the  skin  and  liver.  The  flow  of  the  waters 
is  very  large,  and  its  temperature  is  about  73°.  There  are  many  fine 
drives  and  walks  in  this  vicinity,  the  favorite  of  which  is  to  the  Shaker 
Village,  about  2 M.  distant. 

The  Shakers  originated  from  a French  sect  which  came  to  England  in  1706,  and 
Ann  Lee,  of  Manchester,  the  daughter  of  a blacksmith  and  the  wife  of  a black- 
smith, joined  them  in  1758.  In  1770,  after  emerging  from  a madhouse  where  she 
was  confined  for  reviling  matrimony,  she  announced,  “ I am  Ann,  the  Word,”  and 
soon  after  came  to  America,  and  was  made  the  “ Spiritual  Head  ” of  the  sect.  In 
1780  she  produced  a revival  at  New  Lebanon,  and  converted  many  to  Shakerism, 
soon  after  which  the  sect  established  its  head-quarters  there,  and  in  1795  accepted 
the  commonwealth  covenant.  She  claimed  the  power  of  working  miracles,  and 
held  that  Christ’s  coming  was  not  the  fulfilment  of  “ the  desire  of  all  nations,  but 
that  the  second  Bivine  advent  must  naturally  be  manifested  in  that  particular 
object,  to  wit,  woman,  which  is  eminently  the  desire  of  all  nations.”  Mother 
Ann  made  New  Lebanon  “the  capital  of  the  Shaker  world,  the  rural  Vatican 
which  claims  a more  despotic  sway  over  the  mind  of  man  than  ever  the  Roman 
Pontiff  assumed.”  On  her  death  a peculiar  hierarchy  assumed  the  government. 
The  First  Elder,  the  successor  of  Mother  Ann,  ajjpoints  the  second  elder,  and  the 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Route  23.  147 


first  and  second  eldress.  These  four,  called  the  “Holy  Lead,”  remain  secluded 
in  the  church  at  Lebanon,  and  appoint  subordinate  clergy,  including  one  elder  in 
each  family.  Their  Scriptures  are  contained  in  the  “ Holy  Laws  ” and  Order 
Book,  which  are  claimed  as  works  of  inspiration,  and  as  partly  dictated  by  the 
Recording  Angel,  although  they  may  be  amended  or  rescinded  by  the  Holy  Lead. 
Unlike  other  sects,  the  Shakers  claim  that  men  may  join  their  church  after  death, 
and  among  other  illustrious  posthumous  members,  they  count  Washington, 
Lafayette,  Napoleon,  Tamerlane,  and  Pocahontas.  “By  frugality  and  industry 
they  give  us  many  useful  things,  but  they  do  not  produce  what  the  Republic  most 
needs,  — men  and  women.”  * 

The  sect  has  been  declining  since  the  death  of  its  great  head  and  her  disciples, 
because  it  has  no  powers  of  internal  development.  There  are  many  Shaker  vil- 
lages in  the  N.  Atlantic  States,  but  the  community  at  New  Lebanon  has  dwindled 
to  20  - 30  members. 

3 M.  S.  W.  of  Pittsfield  (by  R R.)  is  a Shaker  village,  near  Richmond  Pond, 
and  a little  way  to  the  N.  of  it  is  a mountain  (in  Hancock)  where  the  devotees  of 
this  faith  formerly  held  their  weird  meeting.  Their  tradition  states  that  here  on 
Mt.  Sinai,  the  Shakers  hunted  Satan  throughout  a long  summer  night,  and  finally 
killed  and  buried  him.  Over  his  grave,  to  this  day,  Washington  and  Lafayette 
keep  guard,  mounted  on  white  horses,  and  are  seen  on  summer  nights  by  the 
faithful  who  chance  to  pass  their  ancient  shrine. 

From  Pittsfield  the  Housatonic  R.  R.  runs  through.  Southern  Berkshire. 
“Of  all  the  railroads  near  New  York  none  can  compare,  for  beauty  of 
scenery,  with  the  Housatonic  from  Newtown  to  Pittsfield,  but  especially 
from  New  Milford  to  Lenox.”  (Beecher.)  Fredrika  Bremer  speaks  of 
“the  wonderfully  picturesque  and  sometimes  splendidly  gloomy  scenery  ” 
along  the  line  of  this  railroad.  By  this  route  it  is  8 M.  to  Lenox  Station 
(passing  South  Mt.  on  the  r. ),  from  which  stages  ascend  to  the  village  in 
2 M.  By  a fine  carriage  road  it  is  6 M.  S.  of  Pittsfield. 

IT otel  s.  Curtis’s  Hotel  accommodates  80-100  guests  at  $ 4. 00  a day,  with  con- 
siderable reductions  for  a long  stay.  There  are  several  large  summer  boarding- 
houses here  (Mrs.  Flint’s,  Mrs.  Clark’s,  &c.),  more  quiet  and  inexpensive  than  the 
hotel,  and  some  of  them  better  situated. 

66  Lenox,  known  for  the  singular  purity  and  exhilarating  effects  of  its  air,  and 
for  the  beauty  of  its  mountain  scenery.  If  one  spends  July  or  October  in  Lenox, 
he  will  hardly  seek  another  home  for  the  summer.  The  church  stands  upon  the 
highest  point  in  the  village,  and  if,  in  summer,  one  stands  in  the  door  and  gazes 
upon  the  vast  panorama,  he  might,  without  half  the  Psalmist’s  devotion,  prefer 
to  stand  in  the  door  of  the  Lord’s  house  to  a dwelling  in  tent,  tabernacle,  or  man- 
sion.” So  says  Beecher,  whose  “Star  Papers”  were  written  during  his  summer 
visits  to  Lenox,  in  a house  which  stood  near  the  site  now  occupied  by  Gen.  Rath- 
bone’s  mansion. 

Fredrika  Bremer  wrote,  “The  country  around  Lenox  is  romantically  lovely, 
inspired  with  wood-covered  hills  and  the  prettiest  little  lakes.” 

This  “ gem  among  the  mountains  ” (Silliman)  was  settled  in  1750,  and 
received  the  family  name  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond.  It  is  situated  on  a 
high  hill,  and  contains  the  old  Court  House  (which  now  has  a library  and 
reading-room)  and  numerous  villas  pertaining  to  gentlemen  of  Boston  and 
New  York.  Fanny  Kemble  (Butler)  long  resided  here,  and  wished  to  be 
buried  in  the  graveyard  on  the  hill,  saying,  “ I will  not  rise  to  trouble 
any  one  if  they  will  let  me  sleep  here.  I will  only  ask  to  be  permitted, 
once  in  a while,  to  raise  my  head  and  look  out  upon  this  glorious  scene  ” ; 

* Much  of  the  foregoing  account  has  been  condensed  from  Dwight's  Travels.  The  editor 
does  not  know  whether  the  government  remains  now  in  the  same  form. 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


148  Route  23. 

y 

and  Beecher  adds,  “ May  she  behold  one  so  much  fairer  that  this  scenic 
beauty  shall  fade  to  a shadow.”  Lenox  is  the  healthiest  town  in  Berk- 
shire, and  is  1,300  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  600  summer  visitors  remained 
here  through  the  summer  of  1872. 

Bald  Head  is  2 - 3 M.  from  the  village  (carriage-road  to  the  top).  From 
this  point  is  seen  the  rich  Stockbridge  Yalley,  the  Bowl  (Lake  Mahkeenac), 
and  the  wide  Housatonic  valley  on  the  S. , with  Laurel  Lake  and  Rattle- 
snake Mt.  on  the  S.  E.  On  the  N.  and  W.  are  Lenox  and  Oceola  Mts., 
on  the  N.  is  South  Mt.,  and  on  the  E.  are  the  tumultuous  hills  of  Wash- 
ington, “a  view  wide,  rich,  and  joyous.” 

The  Stockbridge  Bowl  and  Laurel  Lake  are  S.  W.  and  S.  E.  of  Lenox, 
— each  being  3 - 4 M.  distant  (see  Stockbridge  and  Lee).  A pretty  view 
of  Laurel  Lake  is  gained  from  the  first  hill  S.  of  the  village,  with  Lenox 
Furnace  near  it  on  the  1. 

Perry’s  Peak  is  6-7  M.  distant,  passing  Lenox  Mt.  and  Richmond 
Yalley.  This  lone  summit,  which  stands  on  the  frontier  of  New  York,  is 
2,100  ft.  high,  and  overlooks  the  Hudson,  the  Catskills,  and  the  Green 
Mts.  New  Lebanon,  “ the  Shaker  capital,  and  Gretna  Green  of  Mass.,”  is 
but  7 - 8 M.  beyond  the  Peak. 

At  Lenox  Furnace,  2 M.  S.  E.  of  the  village,  on  the  R.  R.,  are  extensive  glass- 
works, where,  among  other  varieties,  the  best  quality  of  plate-glass  is  made,  from 
pure  granulated  quartz.  ~ 

Other  excursions  are  to  the  Ledge,  the  Pinnacle,  and  Richmond  Hill.  The  sun- 
set view  from  Church  Hill  (at  the  N.  end  of  the  village)  is  one  of  great  beauty, 
embracing  even  the  distant  Greylock. 

Lee  is  4J  M.  S.  E.  of  Lenox,  by  the  highway,  and  5 M.  by  stage  and  R. 
R.  Hotels,  Morgan  House  ; Strickland  House  (in  E.  Lee). 

Lee  was  settled  in  1760,  and  was  named  for  one  of  the  Yirginian  Lees, 
who  were  so  distinguished  in  the  Continental  Army.  Paper-making  was 
early  commenced  here,  and  now  the  business  has  assumed  vast  propor- 
tions. But  the  town  is  most  widely  known  for  its  excellent  white  marble, 
of  which  $1,000,000  worth  was  used  in  building  the  U.  S.  Capitol  at 
Washington.  The  quarries  are  close  to  the  village  on  the  S.,  and  lie  be- 
tween the  R.  R.  and  the  river.  The  State  fronts  the  sea  with  a line  of 
granite  and  greenstone,  while  it  fronts  to  the  W.  with  hills  of  gneiss,  slate, 
and  marble.  The  Lee  and  Hudson,  and  Lee  and  New  Haven  Railroads  are 
projected  routes,  which,  if  finished,  will  increase  the  importance  of  the 
town  and  diminish  the  romance  of  the  Berkshire  Hills. 

Laurel  Lake  is  a pretty  sheet  of  water  2 M.  N.  of  Lee,  that  should  be 
visited  in  the  late  afternoon  to  catch  “the  delicate  evening  lights  that 
glance  from  its  tranquil  surface.” 

The  Yokum  Ponds  are  among  the  hills  a few  miles  S.  E.  of  the  village, 
and  near  the  romantic  Monterey  road.  The  numerous  summer  visitors  at 
Lee  make  excursions  to  Stockbridge  (4  M.),  Lake  Mahkeenac  (4-5  M.,) 
Tyringham  and  Monterey,  (11  M. ),  and  Lenox  (4J  M. ). 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Route  23.  149 


Stockbridge 

(Stockbridge  House,  70-80  guests,  open  only  in  summer.  $ 3.00  a day, 
$12-18.00  a week)  is  6 M.  from  Lee  by  R.  R.,  and  4 M.  by  the  highway. 
Stockbridge  is  one  of  the  fairest  of  what  Gov.  Andrew  called  “the  deli- 
cious surprises  of  Berkshire.”  It  is  “ famed  for  its  meadow-elms,  for  the 
picturesque  beauty  adjacent,  for  the  quiet  beauty  of  a village  which 
sleeps  along  a level  plain  just  under  the  rim  of  the  hills.”  (Beecher.) 
The  hotel  fronts  on  the  wide,  main  street ; to  its  1.  is  a beautiful  little 
marble  fountain  from  Italy ; and  before  it  is  the  quaint  and  picturesque 
Episcopal  Church,  of  ivy-grown  and  weather-stained  wood,  with  its  sweet 
and  deep-toned  bell.  On  a verdant  lawn  near  the  church  is  a brown- 
stone  shaft  with  sculptured  trophies,  inscribed,  “ To  her  sons,  beloved 
and  honored,  who  died  for  their  country  in  the  great  war  of  the  Rebellion, 
Stockbridge,  in  grateful  remembrance,  has  raised  this  monument.  ” On 
the  same  side  of  the  street,  to  the  W. , the  fourth  house  is  the  ancient 
house  where  Edwards  wrote  his  famous  treatise  on  “ The  Freedom  of  the 
Will.”  Some  distance  beyond  is  the  Congregational  Church,  with  a large 
cemetery  in  front  of  it.  On  the  Green  near  by  is  a fine  memorial  monu- 
ment to  Edwards,  built  of  polished  Scotch  granite. 

On  the  main  st.,  E.  of  the  hotel,  is  the  Jackson  Library,  a neat  little 
stone  building  containing  4-5,000  volumes,  a cabinet  of  minerals,  certain 
relics  of  Edwards,  and  a marble  tablet,  on  which  are  inscribed  the  names 
of  134  officers  and  men  who  went  from  Stockbridge  to  the  Secession  War. 
On  the  street  diverging  from  the  Library  is  a small  Catholic  Church  of 
marble.  Beyond  the  Library  is  the  old  Academy  with  a long  semicircle 
of  elms  in  front,  a copy,  in  living  trees,  of  the  stone  porticos  before  St. 
Peter’s  Church  in  Rome.  Back  of  the  Academy  is  Laurel  Hill,  with  a 
turf  rostrum  in  a glen  surrounded  by  trees  and  rocks.  Here  in  late 
August  of  each  year  meets  the  Laurel  Hill  Association,  devoted  to  pre- 
serving, protecting,  and  increasing  the  beauty  of  the  village  and  its  en- 
virons. On  the  heights  above  the  village  are  the  mansions  of  David  Dud- 
ley Field  (for  40  years  a prominent  N.  Y.  lawyer  and  jurist),  H.  M. 
Field,  D.  D.  (author,  and  for  many  years  editor  of  the  “ Evangelist  ” ),  Ivi- 
son  (the  publisher),  Prof.  Joy  (of  Columbia  College),  and  the  old  Mission 
House,  built  by  “the  Great  and  General  Court  of  His  Majesty’s  Province 
of  Massachusetts  Bay  ” early  in  the  last  century.  The  view  from  these 
heights,  especially  about  sunset,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  nature 
(it  was  pronounced  by  Dr.  McCosh  equal  to  any  in  Scotland),  embracing 
the  rich  valley  of  the  Housatonic  to  the  E.  and  W.,  with  the  valley  of 
Konkapot  River  stretching  away  in  the  S.  to  Monument  Mt.,  Bear  Mt. 
rising  close  on  the  1.  and  the  tufted  Evergreen  Hill  dividing  the  valley. 

A great  people  crossed  deep  waters  from  a far-distant  continent  in  the  N.  W. 
and  marched  by  many  pilgrimages  to  the  sea-shore  and  the  valley  of  the  Hudson. 


150  Route  S3.  THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Here  they  built  cities  and  lived,  until  a great  famine  scattered  them  and  very 
many  of  them  died.  Wandering  for  years  in  quest  of  a precarious  living,  “ they 
lost  their  arts  and  manners,”  and  a part  of  them  settled  by  the  Housatonic  River. 
Such  were  traditions  of  the  Muhhekanew  Indians  told  to  President  Dwight.  In 
1734  the  colony  established  a mission,  and  sent  John  Sergeant  to  teach  the  Muh- 
hekanews  (“  people  of  the  great  moving  waters  ”)  at  their  village  of  Houssatonnuc, 
which  was  named  Stockbridge.  This  tribe  was  ever  friendly  to  the  English,  and 
gladly  received  the  Gospel,  first  from  the  teachings  of  Sergeant,  who  labored  here 
1734-49,  and  translated  the  New  Testament,  and  part  of  the  Old,  into  their 
language.  In  15  years  he  baptized  129  Indians.  He  was  succeeded  by  Jonathan 
Edwards  (preaching  by  interpreters,  1751-7),  who  in  turn  was  succeeded  by 
Stephen  West.  Many  of  the  Indians  enlisted  in  the  Continental  Army,  and  a 
company  of  them  won  high  distinction  at  the  battle  of  White  Plains.  In  1751 
there  were  150  Indian  families  here,  and  but  6 English  families  ; but  by  1783  the 
balance  had  changed,  and  John  Sergeant’s  son,  then  their  pastor,  led  the  tribe  to 
New  Stockbridge,  on  land  given  by  the  Oneida  tribe,  in  Western  New  York. 
About  400  people  were  numbered  in  this  emigration.  They  remained  there  34 
years,  and  then  moved  to  Wisconsin,  where  they  stayed  17  years  more,  and  about 
the  year  1840  moved  to  the  vicinity  of  Leavenworth,  in  Kansas.  Where  they  have 
been  crowded  to  since,  this  record  cannot  tell. 

In  1669  the  great  Sachem  Checkatabut,  head  of  the  Massachusetts  Indians, 
with  700  warriors,  marched  from  the  sea  to  the  Hudson  on  a campaign  against 
the  Mohawks.  The  latter,  concentrating  their  forces  at  the  great  tribal  fortress, 
repelled  all  assaults  and  made  fierce  sorties,  until  the  men  of  Massachusetts,  find- 
ing their  provisions  failing,  and  the  whole  country  rising  about  their  ears,  beat  a 
retreat.  Their  inarch  was  probably  directed  on  Stockbridge,  as  being  the  seat  of 
a rich,  peaceful,  and  friendly  tribe,  where  they  could  hope  to  get  food  and  aid. 
But  a powerful  force  of  Mohawks,  by  a forced  march,  got  ahead  of  them  and  laid 
an  ambush  among  the  dense  forests  and  rugged  ravines  of  the  Taconics  (Tagh- 
kanak,  “ the  wood  place,”  or  “ Forest  Hills  ”).  The  retreating  warriors  fell  into 
the  snare,  and  in  the  long  and  desperate  conflict  which  ensued,  Checkatabut  and 
58  of  his  sagamores  were  killed,  together  with  a great  portion  of  the  men.  Only 
a handful  succeeded  in  reaching  the  coast  again. 

At  the  close  of  King  Philip’s  War,  the  remnants  of  the  insurgent  confederation 
took  refuge  in  the  S.  Berkshire  Hills.  But  Talcott’s  “ Flying  Army,”  from  the 
E.,  and  the  Mohawks,  from  the  W.  made  such  devastating  inroads  upon  them 
that  they  speedily  made  their  submission. 

Among  the  natives  of  Stockbridge  are  H.  M.  Field,  D.  D.,  the  editor;  Cyrus 
W.  Field,  the  projector  and  organizer  of  the  Atlantic  Telegraph  Cable  ; E.  Bacon, 
the  jurist ; J.  S.  Hart,  the  author ; and  Caroline  M.  Sedgwick,  the  popular  au- 
thoress of  “Redwood,”  “Hope  Leslie,”  &c. 

Jonathan  Edwards,  the  greatest  of  American  metaphysicians,  was  bom  in 
Conn.,  1703,  and  a ter  30  years  of  preaching  he  settled  at  Stockbridge.  Here  he 
wrote  the  remarkable  treatise  on  “ The  Freedom  of  the  Will,”  in  whose  close  and 
subtle  argument  he  maintained  “that  philosophic  necessity  was  compatible  with 
freedom  of  the  will,  rightly  defined,  and  with  human  responsibility.  Tall  and 
slender  in  person,  he  had  a high,  broad,  bold  forehead,  piercing  and  luminous 
eyes,  and  a countenance  indicative  of  sincerity  and  benevolence.”  The  great  re- 
ligious awakening  which  convulsed  the  frozen  churches  of  New  England  before 
the  middle  of  the  last  century  was  largely  caused  by  his  marvellous  sermons,  un- 
evadable  in  their  directness,  incontrovertible  in  their  logic,  and  terrific  in  their 
lurid  earnestness.  Probably  no  preacher  since  Chrysostom  has  had  such  power 
of  striking  convulsive  terror  into  an  audience ; and  this  he  did  simply  by  his 
words  and  by  his  intense  earnestness,  and  without  any  of  the  graces  or  artifices 
of  oratory. 

While  President  of  New  Jersey  College,  Edwards  died  (1758),  leaving  “The 
Freedom  of  the  Will,”  “The  Religious  Affections,”  and  “The  History  of  Re- 
demption,” as  his  great  monuments.  These,  and  his  other  writings,  including 
many  sermons,  fill  10  octavo  volumes. 

“These  three,  Augustine,  Calvin,  and  Jonathan  Edwards.” 

*Lake  Mahkeenac  (Stockbridge  Bowl)  is  3-4  M.  N.  of  the  village  by 
admirable  roads.  This  is  a beautiful,  calm  lake,  surrounded  by  hills,  and 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Route  23.  151 


with  the  village  and  spire  of  Curtisville  peering  above  the  trees  on  the  S. 
The  best  way  is  to  go  up  by  the  road  on  the  heights,  leaving  Mahkeenac 
on  the  1.  and  passing  around  its  N.  end,  return  on  a road  W.  of  the  Lake 
through  Curtisville.  5 min.  walk  from  the  latter  village  is  a beautiful 
little  tarn  called  Lake  Averick,  or  Mountain  Mirror.  Hawthorne  lived 
in  a little  red  farmhouse  near  Mahkeenac  for  a year  and  a half  (1850  - 51), 
but  remembered  the  many-sounding  sea  on  whose  shores  he  was  bom  and 
had  lived,  and  says  but  little  about  this  mountain- water.  But  he  found 
rare  pleasure  in  watching  the  mountains  themselves.  “ In  its  autumn 
hues,  Monument  Mt.  looks  like  a headless  sphinx  wrapped  in  a rich  Per- 
sian shawl”  ; “this  valley  in  which  I dwell  seems  like  a vast  basin  filled 
with  sunshine  as  with  wine;  and  the  changes  of  the  seasons  on  Monu- 
ment and  Bald  Mts.,  and  the  black-purple  dome  of  Taconic,  with  the 
winter  sunset  which  has  a softness  and  delicacy  which  impart  themselves 
to  a white  marble  world.” 

* Monument  Mt.  is  3 - 4 M.  from  Stockbridge.  The  Great  Barrington 
road  is  followed  to  the  top  of  the  ridge,  then  a wood-road  diverges  to  the 
r.  When  J M.  from  the  N.  summit  a path  is  taken  wdiich  conducts  to 
Pulpit  Rock,  the  Profile  (beyond  the  N.  summit),  &c.  On  the  E.  side  is 
a white  quartz  cliff  of  vast  depth,  detached  from  which  is  the  Pulpit. 
From  the  summit  a noble  * view  is  gained,  embracing  the  Housatonic  Valley 
for  many  leagues,  wfith  its  fair  villages  and  mountain-walls,  while  the 
Green  Mt.  and  Greylock  tower  in  the  N.  and  the  Catskills  maybe  seen 
in  the  W.,  if  the  day  is  clear. 

“ To  the  north  a path 
Conducts  you  up  the  narrow  battlements. 

Steep  is  the  western  side,  shaggy  and  wild, 

"With  many  trees  and  pinnacles  of  flint. 

And  many  a haughty  crag.  But  to  the  east 
Sheer  to  the  vale  go  down  the  bare  old  cliffs, 

Huge  pillars  that  in  middle  Heaven  uprear 
Their  weather-beaten  capitals  — here  dark 
With  the  thick  moss  of  centuries,  and  there 
Of  chalky  whiteness,  where  the  thunderbolt 
Hath  smitten  them.”  — Bryant. 

The  Mt.  derives  its  name  from  a cairn  which  was  made  of  stones,  to  which, 
each  passing  Indian  added  a stone.  The  legend  states  that  it  was  raised  over  a 
beautiful  maiden  who  passionately  loved  her  cousin,  and  being  forbidden  by  the 
Indian  laws  to  marry  him,  she  threw  herself  from  a lofty  cliff  and  was  dashed  in 
pieces. 

Icy  Glen  is  about  1J  M.  from  Stockbridge,  by  the  road  crossing  the  R.  R.  just 
to  the  1.  of  the  station,  — and  leaving  the  road  near  some  houses  at  the  mt.  foot, 
go  up  into  a romantic  glen,  with  seats  arranged  about  it.  From  this  point  a wild 
chaos  of  rocks,  caverns,  and  trees  extends  through  a long  ravine,  where  ice  is 
found  in  July.  This  is  the  N.  end  of  Bear  Mt.,  on  whose  top  an  observatory  has 
been  raised,  commanding  a neat  view.  It  is  gained  by  crossing  the  river  on  a 
wire  foot-bridge  near  the  Main  St.,  and  taking  a pleasant  forest-path  up  the  slope. 

Excursions  are  made  from  Stockbridge  to  Lee,  Lenox,  Great  Barrington,  and 
Mt.  Everett,  also  to  the  romantic  and  desolate  town  of  Monterey  (11  M.  S.  E.). 

“ If  you  wish  to  be  filled  and  satisfied  with  the  serenest  delight,  ride  to  the 
summit  of  this  encircling  hill-ridge  ” (above  Stockbridge)  in  a summer’s  afternoon, 
while  the  sun  is  but  an  hour  high.  The  Housatonic  winds,  in  great  circuits,  all 
through  the  valley,  carrying  willows  and  alders  with  it  wherever  it  goes.  The 


152  Route  23.  THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


horizon  on  every  side  is  piled  and  terraced  with  mountains.  Abrupt  and  isolated 
mountains  bolt  up  here  and  there  over  the  whole  stretch  of  plain,  covered  with 
evergreens.”  (Beecher.) 

Great  Barrington  is  S.  of  Stockbridge,  8 M.  by  R.  R.,  6J  M.  by  high- 
way. 

Hotels:  Berkshire  Hotel,  a roomy  old  stone  building,  $10-14.00  a 
week;  Miller’s  Hotel.  This  “ is  one  of  those  places  which  one  never  en- 
ters without  wishing  never  to  leave.  It  rests  beneath  the  branches  of 
great  numbers  of  the  stateliest  elms.”  (Beecher.)  Fine  macadamized 
roads  are  built  around  the  place,  on  which  excursions  are  made  to  Monu- 
ment Mt.  (4  M.),  Monterey  (8  M.),  and  Sheffield  (6-7  M.).  In  the  vi- 
cinity is  a curious  rock  formation  called  Purgatory,  while  a path  leads  to 
the  top  of  E.  Mt.  in  2 M.  The  Berkshire  Soda  Springs  (small  hotel)  are 
about  3 M.  to  the  S.  E.,  amid  wild  scenery.  Several  fine  villas  are  in  the 
outskirts  of  the  village,  and  the  Cong,  and  Epis.  churches,  on  the  main 
street,  are  fine  buildings. 

A daily  stage  runs  to  New  Marlboro’  (Centre  House),  which  has  a large  cave 
with  stalactites,  a rocking  stone  of  30  tons,  and  Hermit  Pond,  near  which  a lone 
hermit  lived  from  1770  till  his  death,  in  1817.  He  was  a woman-hater,  and  epito- 
mized the  female  character  thus  : — 

“ They  say  they  will,  and  they  won’t ; 

What  they  promise  to  do,  they  don’t.” 

W.  of  New  Marlboro’  is  Sandisfield,  with  Seymour  and  Hanging  Mts.  and  Spec- 
tacle Ponds.  Here  was  born  Col.  John  Brown  (1744),  a brave  partisan  officer  in 
the  Revolutionary  War,  whose  fearless  and  fanatical  Puritan  grandson,  John 
Brown,  invaded  the  powerful  State  of  Virginia  at  the  head  of  20  men  (Oct.  16, 
1859),  intending  to  become  the  liberator  of  the  slaves  of  the  South.  The  Virginian 
militia  gathered  quickly,  attacked  him  at  Harper’s  Ferry,  killed  most  of  his  men 
(including  his  two  sons),  and  captured  the  wounded  leader.  He  was  hung,  ac- 
cording to  the  sentence  of  the  law,  in  November,  “and  met  death  with  serene 
composure.” 

A daily  stage  runs  from  Great  Barrington  to  N.  and  S.  Egremont,  4-5  M.  S.  E. 
The  Mt.  Everett  House,  in  S.  Egremont,  is  a small  and  secluded  summer-hotel, 
situated  about  5 M.  from  the  lofty  Mt.  Everett,  and  in  a thinly  settled  town 
abounding  with  lakes.  The  ascent  of  Mt.  Everett  is  “ along  a vast,  unculti- 
vated slope,  to  the  height  of  nearly  2,000  ft.,  when  you  reach  the  broad  valley 
where  the  few  inhabitants  reside,  in  the  centre  of  a vast  pile  of  mts.”  The 
town  has  but  256  inhabitants.  Dr.  Hitchcock  thus  describes  the  * view  from  Mt. 
Everett:  “ You  feel  yourself  to  be  standing  above  everything  around  you,  and 
possess  the  proud  consciousness  of  literally  looking  down  upon  all  terrestrial 
scenes.  Before  you  on  the  E.  the  valley  through  which  the  Housatonic  meanders 
stretches  far  N.  in  Mass.,  and  S.  into  Conn.  ; sprinkled  over  with  copse  and  glebe, 
with  small  sheets  of  water  and  beautiful  villages.  To  the  S.  E.  a large  sheet  of 
water  appears,  of  surpassing  beauty.  In  the  S.  W.  the  gigantic  Alander,  Riga, 
and  other  mts.  more  remote,  seem  to  bear  the  blue  heavens  on  their  heads  in 
calm  majesty  ; while  stretching  across  the  far  distant  W.  the  Catskills  hang  like 
the  curtains  of  the  sky.  O what  a glorious  display  of  mts.  all  around  you  ! This 
is  certainly  the  grandest  prospect  in  Mass.,  though  others  are  more  beautiful.” 

Mt.  Washington  town  was  an  appanage  of  the  great  Livingston  Manor,  of  New 
York,  and  was  first  settled  by  the  Dutch,  as  were  Egremont,  Great  Barrington, 
Sheffield,  and  Salisbury.  The  tourist  may  wonder  at  the  apparent  lack  of  origi- 
nality displayed  in  the  name  of  the  town,  but  without  reason,  since  this  is  the 
first  of  the  many  American  towns  named  in  honor  of  the  great  Virginian,  its  name 
having  been  given  by  the  State  Legislature  in  1776,  as  being  a fitting  title  for  the 
loftiest  town  in  Massachusetts. 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Route  23.  153 


In  Egremont  occurred  the  last  engagement  in  Shays’  rebellion,  when  the  insur- 
gents, after  plundering  Stockbridge,  were  attacked  here  by  the  Great  Barrington 
militia,  and  40  - 50  were  killed  and  wounded. 

Basli-Bish  Falls  (see  Salisbury,  Conn.)  are  about  10  M.  from  the  Mt.  Everett 
House,  by  a road  running  down  through  Mt.  Washington,  and  around  Cedar  Mt. 
The  views  of  Mt.  Everett,  Elk,  Alander,  and  Cedar  Mts.  are  fine. 

6 M.  S.  of  Great  Barrington  is  Sheffield  (Miller’s  Hotel,  small),  “ full 
of  rural  simplicity  and  beauty,  richly  decorated  with  lovely  valley  and 
majestic  mountain  scenery.”  It  is  a quiet  village,  with  a broad,  shady 
street*  in  a rich  intervale  of  the  Housatonic,  and  is  chiefly  noted  for  its 
marble,  of  which  Girard  College  (Philadelphia),  with  its  huge  columns, 
was  built.  Picturesque  roads  run  S.  into  Salisbury,  and  N.  W.  into 
Egremont. 

Bishop  Janes,  of  the  Methodist  Church  ; D,  D.  Barnard,  8 years  M.  C.  and 
Minister  to  Prussia,  1849-53;  F.  A.  P.  Barnard,  President  of  Columbia  College 
since  1864 ; H.  D.  and  T.  Sedgwick,  lawyers,  the  latter  of  whom  was  derided  for 
introducing  a bill  in  the  Legislature,  projecting  a railroad  from  Boston  to  Albany 
(1827) ; Chester  Dewey,  D.  D.,  clergyman  and  botanist ; Orville  Dewey,  D.  D.,  the 
Unitarian  divine  ; and  Judge  Daniel  Dewey,  — were  natives  of  Sheffield. 

Northern  Berkshire 

is  approached  from  Pittsfield  by  the  Pittsfield  and  N.  Adams  Branch  R. 

R.  There  is  also  a romantic  road  leading  through  the  western  valleys  and 
remote  from  the  R.  R.,  passing  Pontoosuc  Lake,  and  then  through  the 
glens  between  the  Saddle-Back  Range  and  that  line  of  mts.  which  stretch 
from  Old  Tower  Hill  to  the  tall  peak  of  Berlin  Mt.  This  road  passes 
through  the  villages  of  Lanesboro,  New  Ashford,  and  S.  Williamstown. 
The  R.  R.  first  crosses  part  of  Lanesboro  (station,  Berkshire,  2 small 
hotels),  a town  which  has  beds  of  snow-white  granular  quartz,  used  here 
in  the  manufacture  of  superior  cylinder  glass.  Variegated  marble  also 
abounds  here.  In  1676  King  Philip  attacked  Lanesboro  with  1,500  men, 
and  effected  its  destruction.  H.  W.  Shaw  was  born  in  this  town  in  1818, 
and  has  since  1863  attained  a high  reputation  as  a humorist,  under  the 
name  of  “ Josh  Billings.”  The  line  here  enters  the  valley  of  the  Hoosac 
River,  which  it  follows  to  N.  Adams.  Cheshire  is  the  next  town,  in  a 
fertile  alluvial  valley  surrounded  by  lofty  hills.  This  town  is  famous  for 
its  dairies,  and  in  1802  its  people  sent  as  a New  Year’s  gift  to  President 
Jefferson  a mammoth  cheese  weighing  1,450  pounds.  Before  reaching 
Cheshire  Harbor  the  great  Saddle-Back  Range  begins,  on  the  W.,  about  2 
M.  from  the  track.  A road  leades  from  Cheshire  Harbor  E.  into  Savoy, 
a wild  mt.  town,  with  one  small  village  called  Savoy  Hollow  (Green  Mt. 
House). 

S.  Adams  (the  birthplace  of  Susan  B.  Anthony)  is  next  reached.  From 

S.  Adams  is  the  shortest  and  easiest  of  the  routes  to  the  top  of  the  ma- 
jestic Greylock  Mt.  which  towers  over  the  valley.  This  is  the  highest  mt. 
in  Mass,  and  commands  a *view  “immense,  and  of  amazing  grandeur.” 


154  Route  23. 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


The  road  runs  W.  and  then  N.,  crossing  a spur  of  the  mt.,  from  which 
pretty  views  of  the  valley  of  the  Hoosac  and  its  villages  are  gained.  De- 
scending now  over  a very  rough  road,  the  Notch  (sometimes  called  the 
Bellows  Pipe,  from  the  gusts  which  draw  through  it)  is  entered.  The 
mt.  just  crossed  is  called  Mt.  Hawks.  At  Walden’s  house  the  Notch 
road  is  left,  and  Mt.  Williams  is  rounded  on  its  N.  side,  then  the  clearing 
between  Mts.  Williams  and  Prospect  is  passed  ; the  long  W.  slope  of  a 
ridge  is  ascended,  and  after  a southerly  walk  the  summit  is  attained.  A 
straighter  and  simpler,  though  less  picturesque,  way  is  right  up  Die  S. 
slope  from  S.  Adams. 

The  summit  of  Greylock  is  partially  cleared,  and  overlooks  the  valley  of  the 
Hoosac  on  the  N.  with  its  villages,  and  the  peaks  of  the  Green  Mts.  beyond.  N. 
of  E.  and  S.  of  E.,  nearly  60  M.  away,  are  Mts.  Monadnock  and  Wachusett ; due 
S.  E.,  nearly  40  M.  distant,  are  Mts.  Tom  and  Holyoke.  Southward  are  the  many 
peaks  of  the  Berkshire  Hills,  bounded  by  Mt.  Everett,  with  Pittsfield  and  its 
'lakes,  and  other  villages  and  towns.  S.  W.  are  the  Catskills,  and  it  is  thought  that 
the  Mts.  in  the  N.  W.  are  those  which  environ  Lake  George.  Saddle  Mt.  and 
Saddle  Ball  are  close  to  Greylock,  and  respectively  N.  and  S.  The  paths  to  the 
summit  of  Greylock  are  difficult  and  easily  lost,  and  the  excursion  will  require  a 
long  day. 

N.  Adams  (*  Wilson  House,  expensive  and  first-class,  with  100  rooms, 
built  by  Wilson,  the  sewing-machine  inventor ; Berkshire  House)  is  a 
prosperous  manufacturing  village,  on  the  Hoosac  River.  It  has  20  cotton 
and  woollen  mills,  and  various  other  industries,  employing  3,600  hands, 
and  turning  out  $ 7 - 8,000,000  worth  of  goods  a year.  Some  neat  villas 
and  a fine  high-school  house  have  been  built,  and  the  town  expects  great 
benefit  when  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  is  done,  by  the  junction  of  railroads  here. 
The  population  in  1870  was  12,092. 

About  1 M.  from  the  village  (to  the  E.)  is  the  Natural  Bridge,  on  Hudson’s 
Brook,  where  the  waters  have  worn  a passage  through  the  solid  rock  30  rods  long 
and  15  ft.  wide,  leaving  an  arch  of  stained  marble  above  it  at  a height  of  30-60 
ft.  This  cavernous  passage  was  a favorite  resort  of  Hawthorne,  who  spent  the 
summer  of  1838  at  N.  Adams,  and  often  bathed  in  the  waters  of  the  brook.  “ The 
cave  makes  a fresh  impression  upon  me  every  time  I visit  it,  — so  deep,  so  irregular, 
so  gloomy,  so  stern  ; part  of  its  walls  the  pure  white  of  the  marble,  others  covered 
with  a gray  decomposition  and  with  spots  of  moss,  and  with  brake  growing  where 
there  is  a handful  of  earth.  I stand  and  look  into  its  depths  at  various  points, 
and  hear  the  roar  of  the  stream  re-echoing  up.  It  is  like  a heart  that  has  been 
rent  asunder  by  a torrent  of  passion,  which  has  raged  and  foamed,  and  left  its 
ineffaceable  traces  ; though  now  there  is  but  a little  rill  of  feeling  at  the  bottom.” 

The  Cascade  in  Notch  Brook  is  about  1£  M.  from  the  hotel,  and  has  a fall  of  30  ft. 
It  is  situated  in  a pretty  glen. 

From  the  hill  E.  of  the  village  are  “ various  excellent  views  of  mt. 
scenery,  far  and  near,”  with  “ Greylock,  appearing,  with  its  two  summits 
and  a long  ridge  between,  like  a huge  monster  crouching  down  slumber- 
ing, with  its  head  slightly  elevated.”  Other  fine  prospects  are  gained 
from  the  various  hills  which  surround  the  village. 

2 M.  S.  is  the  W.  end  of  the  * Hoosac  Tunnel.  This  stupendous  piece 
of  engineering  is  designed  to  furnish  a shorter  route  by  9 M.  than  now 


THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


Route  23. 


155 


exists  from  Boston  to  the  Hudson,  with  easy  grades.  By  opening  a new 
line  to  the  West,  it  is  hoped  to  reduce  by  competition  the  present  high 
tariffs  on  through  freight.  The  tunnel  is  to  be  4f  M.  long,  cut  through 
the  Hoosac.  Mt.,  whose  vast  bulk  running  N.  and  S.  closed  the  way.  The 
Nerthe  Tunnel  in  S.  France,  and  the  Woodhead  Tunnel  in  England,  are 
each  nearly  3 M.  long  ; so  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  will  be  second  only  to  that 
at  Mt.  Cenis,  which  is  7£  M.  long.  The  work  is  now  undertaken  by  the 
State,  and  has  been  a fearful  drain  on  the  treasury,  having  already  cost, 
since  1855,  $5-6,000,000,  and  half  as  much  more  will  be  needed  to 
finish  it.  Less  than  2,000  ft.  of  excavation  now  remains  to  be  done,  and 
it  is  thought  that  the  E.  and  W.  cuttings  will  meet  by  Nov.,  1873.  From 
a valley  between  the  peaks  of  the  Hoosac  Mt.  a 'great  shaft  has  been  sunk 
to  the  grade  level,  and  the  boring  operations  have  been  conducted  in  each 
way  from  this  point  toward  the  excavations  at  the  E.  and  W . ends.  In 
1872,  the  cutting  which  was  being  made  from  the  shaft  westward  met  the 
tunnel  from  the  W.  end  in  the  heart  of  the  .mountain. 

The  mountain  consists  of  solid  mica  slate,  except  at  the  W.  end,  where 
great  trouble  was  given  by  a soft,  treacherous  “ porridge  stone,”  through 
which  a tube  of  brick  900  ft.  long  was  built.  The  cuttings  through  the 
slate-rock  are  done  by  power  drills  propelled  by  compressed  air  (pressure 
of  6 atmospheres)  and  are  afterwards  exploded  by  nitro-glycerine. 

Six-horse  stages  leave  North  Adams  daily  for  the  passage  of  Hoosac 
Mt.  to  the  E.  end  of  the  tunnel  (8  M. ).  After  a long,  slow  ascent  by  zig- 
zag gradients,  the  W.  crest  of  Hoosac  is  gained,  with  a view  of  Greylock 
in  the  S.  W.  and  the  broad  sweep  of  the  Taconic  Hills  from  the  parent 
range  in  Vermont  to  the  blue  and  cloudlike  southern  peaks.  S.  Adams 
is  plainly  visible,  and  the  valley  of  the  Hoosac  stretching  W. , and  the 
broad,  central  valley  of  Berkshire  running  S.  Descending  the  slope  to  the 
plateau,  the  buildings  over  the  Central  Shaft  are  seen.  The  lofty  and 
winter* worn  plateau  is  soon  crossed  and  the  E.  summit  is  climbed. 

A noble  view  is  obtained  from  this  point,  above  the  romantic  gorge  of  the 
Deerfield  River  to  Wachusett  Mt.,  “and  beyond  it  the  blue  and  indistinctive 
scene  extended  to  the  E.  and  N.  for  at  least  60  M.  Beyond  the  hills  it  looked 
almost  as  if  the  blue  ocean  might  be  seen.  Monadnock  was  visible,  like  a sap- 
phire cloud  against  the  sky.  The  scenery  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Green  Mts.  is  in- 
comparably more  striking  than  on  the  W.  where  the  long  swells  and  ridges  have  a 
flatness  of  effect.  But  on  the  eastern  part,  peaks  1-2,000  ft.  high  rush  up  on 
either  bank  of  the  river  in  ranges,  thrusting  out  their  shoulders  side  by  side. 
Sometimes  the  precipice  rises  with  abruptness  from  the  immediate  side  of  the 
river ; sometimes  there  is  a valley  on  either  side  ; cultivated  long  and  with  all 
the  smoothness  and  antique  rurality  of  a farm  near  cities,  this  gentle  picture  is 
strongly  set  off  by  the  wild  mt.  frame  around  it.  I have  never  driven  through 
such  romantic  scenery,  where  there  was  such  variety  and  boldness  of  mt.  shapes 
as  this  ; and  though  it  was  a sunny  day,  the  mts.  diversified  the  view  with  sun- 
shine and  shadow,  and  glory  and  gloom.”  (Hawthorne.) 

At  Hoosac  Tunnel  station,  at  the  E.  foot  of  the  mt.,  one  meets  the 
trains  of  the  Vt.  and  Mass.  R.  R. 


156  Route  23.  THE  BERKSHIRE  HILLS. 


About  1 M.  W.  of  N.  Adams,  and  beyond  the  small  factory  village  of 
Braytonville,  the  road  to  Williamstown  crosses  the  railroad  and  the  Hoosac 
River.  Near  this  crossing  a small  elm  is  seen  in  a meadow  about  20  rods 
from  the  track.  This  elm  stands  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Massachusetts , 
“the  Thermopylae  of  New  England.”  (Everett.) 

This  was  built  in  1744  as  one  of  a cordon  of  forts  toK  protect  the  frontiers.  Fort 
Dummer  guarded  the  N.  route  down  the  Conn,  valley,  and  this  fort  was  to  block 
up  the  W.  route  through  the  Hudson,  Hoosac,  and  Deerfield  valleys.  In  1746 
Col.  Williams  and  many  men  marched  hence  to  Albany  to  join  the  army  for  in- 
vading Canada,  but  meanwhile  the  enemy  had  made  a flank  march,  and  the  Chev- 
alier de  Vaudreuil  attacked  the  fort  at  the  head  of  900  French  and  Indians.  Ser- 
geant Hawks  and  22  men  held  the  place  for  48  hours  against  this  overwhelming 
force,  and  only  surrendered  when  every  grain  of  powder  was  exhausted.  The 
Franco-Indian  force  lost  47  men  before  the  fort. 

From  Fort  Massachusetts  the  highway,  railroad,  and  river  run  through 
the  narrow  valley  to  Williamstown  (Mansion  House,  125  guests).  This 
is  a beautiful  village  situated  in  a fertile  valley  which  is  grandly  moun- 
tain-walled. From  its  air  of  academic  quiet  it  will  be  preferred  as  a 
summer-home  to  its  neighbor,  N.  Adams,  which  is  too  prosperous  to  be 
still.  The  reason  of  Williamstown’s  being  is  Williams  College,  a flour- 
ishing institution  (founded  in  1793),  with  11  instructors  and  161  students. 
W.  College  and  Kellogg  Hall  are  opposite  President  Hopkins’s  house  on 
the  main  street,  and  beyond  them,  to  the  E.,  is  a cluster  of  buildings 
embracing  the  Chapel,  Alumni  Hall,  the  octagonal  Lawrence  Hall  (con- 
taining a library  of  12,000  volumes,  many  portraits  of  graduates,  and 
some  bas-reliefs  from  Nineveh),  the  E.  and  S.  Colleges,  the  fine  stone 
structure  called  Goodrich  Hall,  and  Griffin  Hall.  Opposite  the  latter  is  a 
brownstone  shaft  sustaining  the  bronze  statue  of  a soldier.  It  was  erected 
in  memory  of  the  students  of  the  college  who  died  in  the  Secession  War. 

Col.  Ephraim  Williams,  the  founder  of  Williams  College,  was  born  at  Newton, 
Mass.,  in  1715.  He  was  lieut. -colonel  of  the  8th  Massachusetts  Reg.  at  the  siege 
of  Louisbourg,  in  1745,  and  commanded  the  trans-Connecticut  forts  from  1748  to 
1755.  In  1755,  with  his  regiment,  he  joined  Gen.  Johnson’s  army,  and  while  at 
Albany  he  made  a will  leaving  his  estate  for  the  erection  of  a school  in  a town  to 
be  located  W.  of  Fort  Mass,  to  be  called  Williamstown.  Shortly  after,  while 
marching  with  1,200  men  to  engage  Dieskau  near  Lake  George,  his  command 
was  ambushed  and  overpowered,  and  Col.  Williams  was  killed.  The  school  was 
established  in  1790,  in  a brick  building  (the  present  W.  College),  and  was  char- 
tered as  Williams  College  in  1793.  Its  presidents  have  been  Dr.  E.  Fitch  (1793- 
1815),  Dr.  Z.  S.  Moore  (1S15-21),  Dr.  E.  D.  Griffin  (1821-36),  and  Mark  Hopkins, 
D.  D.,  LL.  D.,  an  able  and  active  writer  and  scholar. 

Near  W.  College  is  Mills  Park,  with  a marble  shaft  surmounted  by  a 
globe,  which  indicates  the  place  where  Samuel  J.  Mills,  “the  Father  of 
Foreign  Missions  in  America,”  and  his  companions,  consecrated  themselves 
to  the  mission-cause  (1807).  * Mills  originated  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.,  and  the 
American  Bible  Society,  and  died  at  sea  (after  exploring  Liberia  for  a site 
for  a colony  of  freedmen)  at  the  early  age  of  35. 

About  2 M.  N.  of  the  village  is  the  famous  Sand  Spring,  with  exten- 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC.  Route  U.  157 


sive  bathing-houses.  The  abundant  waters  maintain  a temperature  of 
about  70°,  and  are  beneficial  in  cutaneous  diseases.  * Greylock  Hall  is  a 
large  new  hotel  recently  opened  at  this  point,  commanding  pleasant  val- 
ley views.  A short  walk  to  the  N.  leads  into  the  rugged  town  of  Pownal, 
in  the  State  of  Vermont. 

About  18  M.  N.  W.  (by  R.  R.)  is  the  Bennington  battle-field,  near  Hoo- 
sac  Junction,  in  the  State  of  New  York. 

Mt.  Hopkins,  S.  of  Williamstown,  is  often  ascended  (2,800  ft.)  for  the 
sake  of  its  views  of  Greylock,  the  Green  and  Taconic  Mts.  the  valleys  of 
the  Hoosac  and  Green  Rivers,  and  the  far-distant  Hudson. 

The  Hopper  is  a gulf  surrounded  by  a vast  amphitheatre  of  mts.,  gained 
by  a road  running  S.  from  the  colleges,  which  is  left  about  4 M.  out,  and 
a wood-road  is  followed  up  the  glen  in  which  flows  Money  Brook.  The 
three  walls  of  the  Hopper  are  Bald  Mt.  (S.),  Prospect  Mt.  (N.),  and 
Greylock  on  the  E.  Far  up  in  this  stupendous  gulf  are  the  finest  cascades 
in  Berkshire,  rarely  visited  and  difficult  of  access.  A noble  view  down 
the  Hopper  is  obtained  from  Bald  Mt.  which  is  crossed  in  the  ascent  of 
Greylock,  sometimes  ascended  on  this  side. 

S.  Williamstown  (small  inn)  is  a village  about  midway  (2J-  M.)  between 
the  Greylock  group  on  the  E.  and  the  New  York  Mt.  of  Berlin  on  the  N. 
W.  The  Snow  Glen  (where  snow  remains  always)  and  Flora’s  Glen 
(where  William  Cullen  Bryant  composed  “ Thanatopsis  ” while  a student 
at  Williams  College,  and  but  18  years  old;  it  was  first  published  5 years 
after,  in  1817,  in  the  “North  American  Review”)  are  favorite  resorts  near 
Williamstown. 

The  Troy  and  Boston  R.  R.  runs  to  Troy,  in  New  York,  44  M.  from  “beautiful 
Williamstown  on  her  classic  heights.” 

24.  New  York  to  Quebec. 

Also  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Springfield  to  Montreal,  Quebec,  and  the 
Franconia  Mts.  Distances,  New  York  to  Quebec,  526  M.  ; to  Lake  Memphrema- 
gog,  365  M.  ; New  Haven  to  Quebec,  453  M.  ; Hartford  to  Quebec,  417  M.  ; 
Springfield  to  Quebec,  391  M ; Springfield  to  Lake  Memphremagog,  229  M. 

The  line  between  New  York  and  Springfield  is  described  in  Route  21. 
In  the  station  at  Springfield  the  traveller  leaves  the  New  York  and  Bos- 
ton train,  and  gets  into  the  cars  of  the  Conn.  River  R.  R.  Time  is  usually 
allowed  for  refreshments  (small  restaurant  in  the  station;  if  time  allows, 
the  best  dinner  in  New  England  may  be  obtained  in  the  Massasoit  House , 
alongside  the  station). 

The  first  station  N.  of  Springfield  is  Chicopee  (Cabot  House).  The 
Dwight  Co’s.  Cotton  Mills,  at  this  place,  employ  2,000  hands,  with  70,000 
spindles,  and  make  $20,000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly.  The  Ames 
Manufacturing  Co.  employ  4-500  men  in  making  machinery,  brass  can- 
non, fine  swords,  and  bronze  statuary.  The  equestrian  statue  of  Wash- 


158  Route  24. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


ington,  at  Boston,  many  soldiers’  monuments,  and  the  superb  bronze 
doors  of  the  Senate  at  Washington  were  cast  here.  The  doors  of  the 
House  of  Representatives  were  cast  at  Munich,  and  those  of  the  Senate 
were  to  have  been  made  there,  but  the  over-prudent  Bavarians  demanded 
prepayment  from  the  U.  S.  Government  (it  was  the  darkest  year  of  the 
Secession  War).  With  a proper  spirit  this  was  refused,  and  the  work 
was  given  to  the  Chicopee  Foundry,  though  but  little  was  hoped  from  it. 
To  the  surprise  of  all,  the  doors  were  finished  admirably,  and  challenge 
comparison  with  the  best  of  Munich  work.  During  the  Rebellion,  this 
foundry  was  worked  night  and  day,  and  supplied  the  Republic  with  vast 
amounts  of  shot  and  shell,  and  over  1,000  cannon. 

At  Chicopee  Falls,  2 M.  E.,  are  cotton-mills  employing  1,000  hands, 
besides  large  factories  which  make  farmers’  tools. 

Station,  Willimansett,  about  2 M.  N.  of  which  is  S.  Hadley  (S.  Hadley 
Falls  Hotel),  a pretty  village  on  a hill  near  the  river.  This  is  the  seat  of 
the  famous  Mt.  Holyoke  Female  Seminary , “ designed  to  give  a solid, 
extensive,  and  well-balanced  English  education,”  while  the  pupils  are  re- 
quired to  do  the  general  housework  of  the  institution,  for  the  sake  of  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  that  useful  art.  After  leaving  Willimansett,  the 
line  crosses  the  Connecticut  and  stops  at  Holyoke  Station  ( Holyoke 
House  ; Samoset  House).  This  is  a rapidly  growing  manufacturing  place 
of  11 -12,000  inhabitants,  and  is  located  at  the  South  Hadley  Falls, 
which  furnish  the  greatest  water-power  in  New  England.  Timothy  Dwight 
speaks  of  “the  fantastic  beauty,  excessive  force,  and  sublime  majesty  of 
these  Falls.  Until  I visited  this  spot,  I knew  not  that  it  was  possible  for 
water  to  become  so  beautiful  an  object.”  Within  1J  M.  the  river  falls  60 
ft.,  and  opposite  the  town  a dam  has  been  built  30  ft.  high  and  over  1,000 
ft.  long,  throwing  the  water  into  a canal  system  3 M.  in  aggregate  length, 
which  can  furnish  power  enough  to  drive  1,000,000  spindles.  The  origi- 
nal dam  of  1847  was  burst  away  before  the  water  had  filled  it,  and  the 
present  one  (1849)  contains  4,000,000  ft.  of  lumber,  spiked  to  the  ledges 
on  the  bottom  of  the  river,  and  plated  with  boiler-iron.  The  leading 
staple  of  Holyoke  is  paper  of  all  sorts,  of  which  about  5,000  tons  are 
made  annually  by  800  workmen.  750  men  are  engaged  in  the  thread 
mills ; 450  in  making  woollen  cloths  (beavers,  doeskins,  and  cassimeres) ; 
and  about  2,000  operatives  make  5-6,000,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths, 
prints,  &c.,  yearly. 

Holyoke  has  about  11,000  inhabitants,  and  is  surrounded  on  three  sides 
by  the  river.  It  is  now  building  a new  Town  House,  at  an  expense  of 
$ 170,000,  and  otherwise  adorning  its  streets,  which  run  along  the  E.  side 
of  a hill. 

At  Ingleside,  2£  M.  from  Holyoke,  is  a favorite  summer-resort  upon  the  high- 
lands which  overlook  the  valley. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


Route  24.  159 


Tlie  railroad  passes  out  in  full  view  of  the  great  dam,  whose  fine  water- 
fall has  been  removed  by  the  necessity  of  building  out  an  inclined  plane, 
to  prevent  the  eating  out  of  the  ledges  by  the  heavy  perpendicular  fall. 

After  leaving  Holyoke  the  line  runs  N.  between  the  river  and  the  long 
range  of  Mt.  Tom  (on  the  1. ),  while  M t.  Ilolyoke  is  seen  ahead  on  the  r. 
The  train  now  passes  through  the  gap  between  these  two  mts.,  and  Am- 
herst and  Mt.  Warner  are  visible  on  the  r.  front,  leagues  away  over  the 
rich  valley,  while  Easthampton  and  Pomeroy’s  Mt.  are  seen  on  the  1. 
The  line  crosses  the  river  to  Ox  Bow  Island,  which  was  a peninsula  until 
1840,  when  a rush  of  the  swollen  river  cut  through  its  isthmus.  After 
crossing  the  rich  intervales  bordering  on  the  river,  the  train  enters 
Northampton. 

Nonotuck  was  bought  of  its  Indian  owners,  in  1653,  for  100  fathoms  of  wampum, 
10  coats,  &c.,  and  was  named  Northampton,  since  many  of  its  settlers  came  from 
that  English  town.  Solomon  Stoddard  was  for  30  years  pastor  here,  and  was  a 
man  of  grave  and  majestic  appearance.  He  rode  once  through  an  ambush  in  the 
forest,  and  when  the  French  soldiers  were  about  to  shoot  him,  the  awe-struck  In- 
dians stopped  them,  saying,  “That  is  the  Englishmen’s  God.”  The  village  was 
surrounded  by  a palisade  and  wall,  which,  however,  was  stormed  in  three  places 
by  King  Philip’s  Indians  (1676).  Three  veteran  companies  were  defending  the 
place,  and  after  a desperate  conflict  in  the  streets  the  assailants  were  driven  out. 
The  church  was  built  in  1655,  at  a cost  of  £ 14,  and  was  26  ft.  by  18.  The  present 
old  church  is  the  fourth  on  that  site.  The  Christians  were  called  to  meeting  by 
the  blasts  of  a trumpet : 

“ Each  man  equipped  on  Sunday  morn,  And  looked  in  form,  as  all  must  grant, 
With  psalm-book,  shot,  and  powder-horn,  Like  th’  ancient  true  church  militant.” 

McFjngal. 

In  the  old  cemetery  are  buried  4 Senators  of  the  United  States,  — Ashmun,  Mills, 
Bates,  and  Strong,  the  latter  of  whom  was  for  11  years  Gov.  of  Mass.,  and.  oppos- 
ing the  War  of  1812,  limited  the  exertions  of  the  State  to  her  own  defence.  Here 
also  is  buried  David  Brainerd,  a heroic  and  powerful  missionary  to  the  Indians, 
author  of  “ Mirabilia  Dei  apud  Indicos,”  and  son-in-law  of  Jonathan  Edwards. 
Edwards  was  pastor  here,  1727-50,  and  “was  dismissed  for  insisting  on  a higher 
and  purer  standard  of  admission  to  the  communion  table.”  The  Dwights,  Allens, 
and  Tappans  were  Northampton  families  prolific  in  able  men,  and  W.  D.  Whit- 
ney, the  leading  American  philologist  (one  of  the  finest  Sanscrit  scholars  in  the 
world)  was  born  here  in  1827. 

Northampton  (*  Fitcb’s  Hotel;  Mansion  House;  Warner  House)  “is 
the  frontispiece  of  the  book  of  beauty  which  Nature  opens  wide  in  the 
valley  of  the  Conn.”  An  English  tourist  (Stuart,  in  1833)  calls  it  “the 
most  beautiful  village  in  America.  ” Its  broad  and  shaded  streets  and 
handsome  villas  are  placed  in  a rich  tract  of  broad  intervale  and  about  1 
M.  from  the  river.  There  are  a number  of  stores  and  public  buildings  on 
the  broad  street  near  Fitch’s  Hotel  (a  new  and  extensive  house),  and  in 
this  vicinity  is  the  brownstone  building  occupied  by  the  Trustees  of  the 
Smith  Charities. 

Oliver  Smith,  of  Hatfield,  died  in  1845,  leaving  $370,000  for  charitable  objects. 
The  youths  and  maidens  and  widows  of  the  eight  adjacent  towns  receive,  under 
certain  conditions,  loans,  dowries,  and  small  pensions  from  this  fund.  By  skill- 
ful management  on  the  part  of  the  Trustees  (who  are  chosen  by  electors  from  the 
eight  towns),  the  funds  had  increased  by  1866  to  $854,000,  and  by  the  terms  of 


160  Route  U.  NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


Mr.  Smith’s  will,  the  whole  amount  (whatever  it  may  be  at  that  time)  is  to  be  de- 
voted to  the  establishment  of  an  agricultural  school  in  this  town  in  the  year  1905. 

The  Farmington  Canal  was  completed  in  1831,  at  a cost  of  $600,000.  It  was  78 
M.  long,  running  from  Northampton  to  New  Haven,  and  has  been  disused  since 
the  railroads  were  built. 

The  New  Haven  and  Northampton  Railroad  (Route  15)  runs  hence  to  New 
Haven  (76  M.)  in  3-  hours.  Also  to  Williamsburg,  9 M.  N.  W. 

On  a beautiful  hill  W.  of  the  village,  and  surrounded  by  groves  of 
forest  trees,  is  the  large  and  imposing  * Round  Hill  Water-Cure  and 
Hotel  (open  all  the  year),  with  Turkish  and  chemical  baths,  billiards, 
bowling,  a band  of  music,  and  accommodations  for  200  guests.  This  site 
was  once  occupied  by  a famous  classical  school,  the  Massachusetts  Eton, 
founded  in  1823  by  George  Bancroft,  the  historian,  and  J.  G.  Coggswell, 
the  author.  The  views  thence  are  very  extensive  and  pleasing.  On  the 
same  hill  is  the  Clarke  Institution  for  Mutes  (endowed  with  $300,000), 
which  teaches  the  system  of  articulation  in  place  of  the  sign  alphabet.  It 
accommodates  80  - 90  persons.  In  the  same  vicinity  (1  M.  W.  of  the 
village)  is  the  * State  Lunatic  Asylum,  with  imposing  buildings  which 
accommodate  350  patients.  These  buildings  are  512  ft.  long,  and  have  4 
acres  of  floors,  and  are  under  the  superintendence  of  Dr.  Pliny  Earle. 

Florence  is  2J  M.  W.  of  the  village,  and  is  the  seat  of  several  factories,  the 
chief  of  which  is  that  of  the  Florence  Sewing-Machine  Co.  In  their  great  quad- 
rangle of  works  this  company  makes  12-15,000  sewing-machines  yearly. 

Mt.  Tom  (more  properly  called  Nonotuck)  is  directly  S.  of  Northampton 
(4-5  M.  by  road).  It  is  200  ft.  higher  than  Mt.  Holyoke,  and  commands  a wider 
view,  but  is  seldom  visited,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  its  ascent. 

*Mt.  Holyoke,  “ the  gem  of  Mass.  Mts.,”  is  3 M.  S.  E.  from  North- 
ampton. A carriage-road  winds  upward  to  the  summit,  but  the  usual 
route  is  by  horse-cars  from  the  ferry  to  the  mountain  railway,  up  which 
passengers  are  drawn  in  small  cars  by  a stationary  engine.  Upon  the 
summit  a small  hotel  was  built  in  1821,  whose  site  is  now  occupied  by 
the  Prospect  House.  18  - 20,000  persons  ascend  the  mt.  every  season. 
The  carriage  road  is  | M.  long,  and  the  railway,  in  its  600  ft.  of  incline, 
rises  365  ft.  perpendicular.  Between  the  building  of  the  railway  in  1854 
and  its  remodelling  in  1866, 125,000  persons  ascended  on  it.  The  summit 
is  1,120  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  830  ft.  above  the  river,  and  is  part  of  a 
greenstone  ridge  running  from  West  Rock  at  New  Haven  to  Belchertown. 
The  invincible  trap-rock  of  the  mount  resisted  the  glaciers  during  their 
long  grinding  attacks,  but  the  great  lake  which,  according  to  Indian  tra- 
dition, filled  the  basin  to  the  N.,  at  last  broke  away  between  Nonotuck 
and  Holyoke,  and  became  a river.  Western  Mass,  is  underlaid  with 
gneiss,  but  the  Conn.  Valley  has  a belt  of  coarse,  new  red  sandstone 
10  - 16  M.  wide,  of  the  Permian  and  Triassic  systems. 

From  this  peak  is  “ the  richest  * * view  in  New  England,  if  not  in  the 
U.  S.”  It  has  often  been  called,  by  distinguished  visitors,  the  finest  view 
in  America. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


Route  24.  1 G 1 


On  the  S.  are  seen  numerous  villages  in  the  valley,  Springfield,  the  graceful 
sinuosities  of  the  broad  river,  the  distant  spires  of  Hartford  (40  M.),  the  Blue  and 
the  Lyme  Mts.,  and  East  and  West  Rocks  at  New  Haven  (70  M.).  S.  W,,  beyond 
Mt.  Tom,  are  glimpses  of  the  valley  of  Westfield  River,  and  on  the  W.  Pom- 
eroy’s Mt.  and  the  high  hills  of  Hampshire  and  Central  Berkshire  are  seen.  N. 
W.  are  8,000  acres  of  garden-like  meadows,  with  Northampton  directly  over  them, 
and  above  the  village,  42  M.  away,  is  Greylock,  “ in  dim  and  misty  grandeur.” 
Farther  to  the  r.  the  hills  of  Franklin  County  are  seen,  dominated  by  Mts.  Toby 
and  Sugar  Loaf,  while  in  the  far  N.  the  blue  peaks  of  the  Green  Mts.  overlook  all. 
The  great  lacustrine  basin  of  the  Conn.,  20  M.  by  15,  is  nearer,  in  the  N.,  with  fair 
Hadley  on  its  “plaided  meadows,”  in  a bend  of  the  river,  and  Hatfield  just  across 
the  river  and  intervales,  under  the  shadow  of  Mt.  Warner  (to  the  r.).  6 M.  N.  E. 
is  Amherst  with  its  colleges,  and  beyond,  “far  in  the  N.  E.,  rises  in  insulated 
grandeur  the  'cloud-capped  Monadnock  ” (50  M.).  In  the  E.  Mt.  Wachusett  (35  M. 
away)  rises  above  the  crowd  of  hills  which  fill  the  E.  and  S.  E.  38  towns  are 
seen  from  this  lofty  peak,  with  parts  of  4 States. 

There  are  good  views  from  other  peaks  of  the  Holyoke  Range  (which  is  9 M. 
long),  and  at  its  W.  end  are  lofty  cliffs  of  columnar  basalt  which  have  been  named 
the  Titan’s  Piers. 

In  1642  Capt.  Holyoke,  on  the  1.  bank,  and  Rowland  Thomas  on  the  r.  bank,  led 
exploring  parties  up  the  Conn,  valley.  They  are  said  to  have  met  near  this 
mount,  and  to  have  talked  across  the  river  at  Rock  Ferry,  when  Holyoke  gave  his 
name  to  the  mount  near  him,  and  Thomas  gave  his  name  to  the  one  on  his  side  of 
the  river.  The  people  have  not  assented  to  the  self-asserting  spirit  shown  in  this 
tradition,  for  Mt.  Holyoke  is  usually  associated  with  the  learned  classical  scholar 
of  that  name  who  was  President  of  Harvard  College,  1737-69,  while  the  other 
name  has  been  clipped  into  Mt.  Tom,  and  its  ancient  Indian  name,  “ Nonotuck,” 
is  now  gaining  ground  in  the  countryside. 

Old  Hadley  is  3 M.  N.  E.  of  Northampton,  over  the  river,  and  lies  on 
the  E.  of  a rich  and  level  intervale,  containing  2 - 3,000  acres,  which  is  an- 
nually overflowed  by  the  river.  The  Connecticut  here  makes  a curve  of 
7 M.  to  accomplish  1 M.  of  direct  course,  and  the  neck  of  the  peninsula  is 
crossed  by  the  street  of  Hadley.  West  Street  was  laid  out  before  the 
settlement  as  1 M.  long  and  20  rods  wide,  but  by  the  encroachments  of 
the  river  and  the  inhabitants,  it  has  been  reduced  to  a length  of  300  rods 
and  a width  of  about  16  rods.  This  wide,  park-like  * street  is  adorned 
with  about  900  ancient  elm-trees,  4 lines  of  which  stretch  from  river  to 
river,  and  is  called  “ the  handsomest  street  by  nature  in  New  England.” 
Middle  and  East  Sts.  are  also  wide  and  shaded  avenues,  running  N. 
and  S.  On  the  meadows  near  this  charming  rural  village  great  quantities, 
of  broom-corn  are  raised,  which,  with  much  of  the  same  material  im- 
ported from  the  West,  is  made  into  brooms  and  brushes.  This  industry 
was  commenced  in  1790,  and  now  amounts  to  over  $ 200,000  a year. 

In  1650,  fierce  theological  discussions  were  carried  on  at  Hartford,  and  many  of 
its  wealthier  families  left  the  place  in  search  of  peace  and  good-will,  and  settled 
on  the  Indian  domain  Qf  Norwottock,  which  they  named  in  honor  of  Hadleigh,  in 
Suffolk,  England.  In  1664  Goffe  and  Whalley,  two  generals  of  the  Army  of 
Parliament,  and  judges  of  the  court  which  put  King  Charles  I.  to  death,  came  here 
and  lived  for  15  years  concealed  in  the  pastor’s  house.  They  had  been  forced  to 
fly  for  their  lives  after  the  Restoration,  and  after  3£  years  of  hiding  about  New 
Haven  they  came  to  Hadley.  Their  presence  here  was  only  known  of  by  three 
citizens.  On  Sept.  1,  1675,  while  the  people  were  assembled  in  the  church,  in 
fasting  and  prayer,  the  town  was  attacked  by  swarms  of  Indians.  After  a sharp 
light,  the  English  gave  way,  when  Gen.  Goffe,  “an  ancient  man  with  hoary  locks, 
of  a most  venerable  and  dignified  aspect,”  appeared  suddenly,  commanded  and 

H 


1G2  Route  24. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


led  a fresh  attack  by  the  people,  and  scattered  the  dismayed  Indians  in  all  direc- 
tions. He  then  disappeared  to  his  hiding-place,  and  the  astonished  villagers,  for 
many  years,  attributed  their  deliverance  to  the  visit  of  a militant  angel.  Gen. 
Whalley  died  here,  and  was  buried,  in  1679,  and  Goffe  died  a few  years  later. 

In  1676  700  Indians  attacked  the  town  just  after  the  Falls  Fight,  but  after  a 
long  and  bitter  struggle  they  were  repelled  with  severe  losses. 

F.  D.  Huntington,  Episcopal  Bishop  of  Central  New  York,  was  a native  of  this 
village.  Joseph  Hooker,  “ Fighting  Joe,”  was  born  at  Hadley  in  1815.  He  was 
distinguished  at  the  battles  of  Monterey  and  Chapultepec,  in  the  Mexican  War, 
and  bore  high  commands  during  the  Secession  War.  At  Antietam,  he  commanded 
the  r.  of  the  army,  and  afterwards,  at  the  head  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac,  he 
was  defeated  in  a long  and  terrible  battle  at  Chancellorsville,  Va.,  losing  16,000 
men.  In  1863-4  he  did  brilliant  service  in  the  battles  resultant  on  the  reoccu- 
pation of  Georgia  and  Alabama  by  the  National  armies. 

Hatfield  ( Hatfield  House ) is  about  5 M.  from  Northampton.  It  is  a 
small  and  beautiful  village  1J  M.  N.  of  Old  Hadley,  and  is  noted  for  its 
early  battles.  In  1675  it  was  attacked  by  800  Indians,  but  the  veteran 
companies  of  Moseley  and  Pike  fought  desperately  amid  the  burning 
houses,  and  held  the  town  till  succor  came,  suffering  heavy  losses.  In 
May,  1676,  600  Indians  attacked  the  place,  and  destroyed  many  houses, 
and  in  1677  it  was  taken  by  a flotilla,  whose  men  carried  the  riverward 
palisades,  and  killed  and  captured  24  persons. 

Easthampton  (see  Route  15)  is  4 M.  S.  W.  of  Northampton.  Amherst  (see 
Route  12)  is  7 M.  N.  E.,  on  the  road  which  crosses  the  river  on  a bridge  1,080  ft. 
long,  and  passes  through  Old  Hadley. 

After  leaving  Northampton,  the  Conn.  River  Railroad  passes  near  the 
Great  Bend  of  the  Conn,  in  sight  of  Old  Hadley  (to  the  r. ),  then  diverges 
from  the  river,  which  is  not  seen  again  for  30  M.  Station,  Hatfield,  be- 
yond which  the  track  runs  near  the  base-line  of  the  State  Trigonometrical 
Survey  (39,009.73  ft.  long),  which  is  laid  along  the  plains  of  Hatfield  and 
Whately  (on  the  r.).  Stations,  N.  Hodfield  and  Whately  (Whately 
House),  whose  village  is  seen  in  the  W.  Beyond  the  village  is  the  far- 
viewing  Mt.  Esther,  and  the  picturesque  Whately  Glen,  with  its  cascades. 

The  train  passes  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.  and  stops  at  S.  Deerfield  (small  hotel). 
A road  leads  from  the  village  to  the  Mountain  House,  on  the  summit  of 
the  conical  S.  peak  of  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.,  which  rises  sheer  from  the 
meadows  and  near  the  river.  From  this  point  is  visible  the  broad,  rich 
valley,  with  its  villages  of  Amherst,  Hadley,  Hatfield,  Northampton,  and 
several  others,  with  Holyoke  seen  beyond  the  Titanic  gateway  between 
Nonotuck  and  Mt.  Holyoke.  Close  at  hand  on  the  E.  is  Sunderland, 
under  the  shadow  of  Mt.  Toby. 

The  rich  and  peaceful  valley  seen  from  Sugar  Loaf  was  the  scene  of  the  bloodiest 
tragedies  of  King  Philip’s  ancl  the  later  Indian  wars.  King  Philip  directed  the 
movements  of  the  western  Indians  from  his  head-quarters  on  this  peak,  — so  runs 
tradition.  Table  Rock  is  a beetling  cliff  on  the  E.  side,  beneath  which  is  a seat 
cut  in  the  rock,  called  King  Philip’s  Chair  (see  Bristol,  R.  I.).  A sharp  skirmish 
took  place  just  S.  of  the  Mt.,  in  August,  1675,  when  26  Indians  and  10  colonists 
were  killed. 

In  the  N.  part  of  S.  Deerfield  village  is  a monument  on  the  Bloody  Brook  battle - 
field.  Sept.  18,  1675,  Capt.  Lathrop  and  84  men  were  convoying  a train  of  grain- 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC.  Route  24.  1G3 


wagons  from  ruined  Deerfield  to  Hadley,  and  as  they  passed  over  a small  "brook, 
they  stopped  to  rest  and  pick  the  wild  grapes  which  hung  in  clusters  over  its 
waters.  While  thus  disbanded,  they  were  suddenly  attacked  by  700  Indian 
warriors.  Lathrop  ordered  his  men  to  take  refuge  behind  the  trees  and  fire  from 
their  shelter,  but  they  were  speedily  enveloped  by  the  enemy,  and  but  7 men  es- 
caped the  general  massacre,  which  included  the  teamsters'  and  reapers  and  76 
soldiers.  Capt.  Moseley,  “an  old  Jamaica  buccaneer,”  marched  rapidly  to  the 
sound  of  the  volleys,  and  charged  and  recharged  in  solid  company  front  through 
the  heathen  swarms.  Major  Treat  and  100  Mohegan  and  Pequot  Indians  (allies  of 
the  English)  also  marched,  up  from  Hadley,  and  96  of  the  hostile  warriors  were 
killed  on  the  field. 

A rude  monument  was  soon  erected  here,  and  in  1835  the  people  of  5 towns  as- 
sembled and  dedicated  a fine  marble  monument,  with  an  address  by  Edward 
Everett. 

“ In  the  country,  districts  that  nestle  in  the  dells  seem  to  have  been  there  for 
ten  centuries  at  least ; and  it  gives  one  a shock  to  light  on  such  a place  as  Bloody 
Brook,  and  to  be  told  that  only  190  years  ago  Capt.  Lathrop  was  slain  here  by 
Red  Indians,  with  80  youth,  ‘ the  flower  of  Essex  County/  as  the  old  Puritan 
histories  say.”  (Sir  Charles  Dilke.) 

About  5 M.  N.  passing  (on  the  r. ) the  monument,  and  then  the  long 
ridge  of  Deerfield  Mt.,  the  line  approaches  the  Deerfield  River,  and  stops 
at  Old  Deerfield  ( Pocomtuck  House , good).  This  place  was  settled  by 
men  of  Dedham  in  1670,  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Pocomtuck,  and  was 
named  from  the  abundance  of  deer  found  in  its  forests. 

Sept.  1,  1675,  the  village  was  attacked  and  burnt,  and  then  abandoned.  It  was 
after  harvesting  its  deserted  fields  that  such  disaster  befell  at  Bloody  Brook,  “ a 
choice  company  of  young  men,  the  very  flower  of  Essex  County,  none  of  whome 
were  ashamed  to  speak  with  the  enemy  in  the  gate.”  In  1697  a fresh  attack  was 
made,  but  if  was  repulsed  by  the  people,  headed  by  their  pastor.  Rev.  John  Wil- 
liams. Feb.  29,  1704,  while  the  watch  was  sleeping,  and  the  snow  had  drifted 
over  the  palisades,  2 hours  before  daylight,  the  place  was  attacked  by  Major  cle 
Rouville,  with  340  French  and  Indians.  The  walls  were  easily  passed,  and  a ter- 
rible scene  of  slaughter,  pillage,  and  conflagration  ensued,  which  lasted  for  three 
hours.  But  one  house  escaped,  and  its  loopholes  were  guarded  by  7 bold  colo- 
nists, whose  wives  were  casting  bullets  for  their  guns.  47  English  were  killed, 
and  180  taken  prisoners.  A few  escaped,  and  alarmed  the  lower  towns,  and  Hat- 
field sent  a force  in  pursuit,  which  overtook  and  was  defeated  by  De  Rouville  on 
the  same  day.  Mrs.  Williams  was  murdered  in  the  Leyden  Gorge,  and  other 
weakly  captives  soon  shared  her  fate.  On  the  first  Sunday  of  their  march  north, 
Rev.  John  Williams  preached  from  the  text,  “ My  virgins  and  my  young  men 
are  gone  into  captivity.”  Arrived  in  Canada,  the  prisoners  were  forced  to  attend 
Roman  Catholic  services,  and  Mr.  Williams  was  offered  his  freedom,  a pension, 
and  his  children,  if  he  would  join  that  church.  He  sternly  refused,  but  28  of  his 
people  chose  to  remain  in  Canada,  and  joined  the  Roman  Church,  “ whence  kindred 
blood  now  rattles  bad  French  in  Canada  or  sputters  Indian  in  the  N.  and  N.  W.” 
The  captives  were  kindly  treated  by  the  French,  and  60  of  them  were  redeemed 
in  1706.  The  pastor’s  little  daughter,  Eunice  (7  years  old),  who  was  kept  by  the 
Indians,  afterwards  married  an  Indian  and  became  a Catholic,  and  often  in  after 
years  made  visits  to  Deerfield  with  her  tribe.  Not  one  iota  of  regard  for  the  cus- 
toms of  civilized  life,  or  for  the  tenets  of  the  Puritan  Church,  remained  in  her 
heart.  Rev.  Eleazer  Williams,  the  pretended  Dauphin  of  France,  and  Bourbon 
Prince  Royal,  about  whom  (a  quiet  missionary  among  the  Indians)  the  newspapers 
made  such  a great  sensation,  was  Eunice’s  grandson. 

This  raid  on  Deerfield  was  a crusade,  for  the  Mass.  Puritans  had  captured  a ship 
which  was  bearing  a bell  to  the  Catholic  Church  at  St.  Regis.  The  bell  was  hung 
in  the  Puritan  meeting-house  at  Deerfield,  and  was  taken  thence  by  the  invaders, 
under  the  care  of  their  chaplain.  It  was  carried  to  the  St.  Regis  Church  (near 
Potsdam,  in  N.  New  York),  where  it  has  sounded  matins  and  vespers  for  nearly 
170  years.  The  same  De  Rouville  attacked  Deerfield  again  in  1710,  but  was  hand- 
somely repulsed. 


164  Route  24. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


Among  the  natives  of  this  town  were  Richard  Hildreth,  the  gifted  historian  of 
the  U.  S.  ; Edward  Hitchcock,  the  geologist,  and  President  of  Amherst  College  ; 
John  Williams,  D.  D.,  present  Episcopal  Bishop  of  Conn. ; and  Gen.  Rufus 
Saxton. 

Just  ^ beyond  Deerfield,  the  railroad  reaches  the  Deerfield  River,  which 
it  crosses  on  a bridge  750  ft.  long,  and  90  ft.  above  the  water.  This 
bridge  was  burnt  during  the  draft  riots  (in  Greenfield)  in  1864,  and  was 
rebuilt  in  six  weeks. 

Station,  Greenfield  (see  Route  25).  From  this  place  the  line  runs  N. 
E.  to  Bernardston,  a small  village  under  the  shadow  of  West  Mt.  This 
cold  and  lofty  town  was  granted  in  1736  to  the  veterans  of  the  Falls 
Fight.  A few  min.  after  passing  Bernardston  the  train  comes  in  sight  of 
the  Conn.  River,  and  reaches  the  station-house  at  S.  Vernon , the  terminus 
of  the  Conn.  River  Line. 

The  train  now  passes  on  the  rails  of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.  Sta- 
tions, S.  Vernon , Vernon , and  Brattleboro,  see  Route  12.  Beyond 
Brattleboro  are  the  stations,  Dummerston,  Putney,  E.  Putney,  and  West- 
minster, which  pertain  to  small  hill-villages.  In  Putney  are  long  strata 
of  roofing-slate ; and  the  rare  mineral  called  fluor  spar  (of  a rich  emerald 
green)  is  found  in  the  E.  of  the  town.  In  1755  a strong  timber  fort  was 
built  on  the  Great  Meadows  in  Putney,  which  protected  the  settlement 
until  the  conquest  of  Canada  rendered  it  unnecessary.  All  the  inhabitants 
lived  in  the  fort  in  small  houses. 

'At  Westminster  occurred  a sharp  skirmish  in  the  course  of  “ the  contest  be- 
tween Puritan  ancl  Patroon”  (as  the  struggle  of  Vermont  against  the  royal  edict 
which  gave  her  to  New  York  has  been  termed).  The  royal  New  York  judges  were 
to  hold  court  here,  but  the  citizens  captured  the  Court-House,  March  13,  1775. 
and  were  only  dislodged  by  an  attack  at  midnight.  Several  Vermonters  were 
wounded,  two  of  them  mortally,  and  one  of  these  has  inscribed  on  his  tomb- 
stone : — 

“ Here  William  French  his  body  lies, 

For  Murder  his  blood  for  vengeance  cries, 

King  George  the  Third  his  Tory  crew 
Tha  with  a bawl  his  head  shot  threw.” 

The  oldest  church  in  Vermont  is  in  this  village  (1  M.  S.  of  the  station).  It  was 
built  in  1770,  and  has  been  secularized.  Across  the  river  from  Westminster  is  the 
old  frontier  town  of  Walpole  (see  Route  26). 

Station,  Bellows  Falls  (*  Island  House).  This  was  a favorite  Indian 
resort  because  of  the  great  numbers  of  salmon  and  shad  near  the  rapids. 
8 rods  S.  of  the  old  bridge,  on  the  W.  bank,  Schoolcraft  found  Indian 
hieroglyphs  on  the  rocks,  which  he  thinks  are  the  records  of  some  ancient 
battle.  The  village  was  named  for  Col.  Bellows,  the  founder  of  Walpole, 
and  great-grandfather  of  Dr.  H.  W.  Bellows.  The  river  falls  42  ft. 
within  \ M.  near  the  village,  and  forms  white  and  impetuous  rapids, 
dashing  between  and  among  the  rocks  which  strew  the  river-bed.  In 
low  water  the  current  is  compressed  into  a channel  of  16  ft.  in  width, 
between  two  large  rocks.  A cailal  \ M.  long  has  been  built  around  the 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC.  Route  U.  1G5 


falls,  and  on  the  water-power  thus  afforded,  several  factories  are  located. 
Opposite  the  falls  is  Mt.  Kilburn,  a wooded  eminence  which  gives  a pretty- 
view  of  the  river  and  village.  The  old  name  of  this  hill  was  Fall  Mt., 
but  President  Plitchcock  and  a large  delegation  of  students  from  Amherst 
and  Middlebury  Colleges  met  here  in  1856,  and  named  it  Mt.  Kilburn,  in 
honor  of  a brave  frontiersman.  The  Fall  Mt.  House  is  situated  at  the 
foot  of  this  eminence. 

Pleasant  excursions  are  made  by  the  summer  visitors  here,  to  Warren's  Pond , 
in  Alstead,  N.  PI.  ; to  the  Abenaquis  Mineral  Springs  ; and  to  Westminster. 

From  Bellows  Falls  the  Cheshire  R.  R.  runs  S.  E.  to  Fitchburg  and  Boston  (114 
M.),  and  the  Rutland  and  Burlington  R.  R.  goes  to  Burlington  (143  M.  See 
Route  26). 

The  train  crosses  the  Conn.  River  into  the  State  of  New  Hampshire, 
and  runs  through  the  long  river-town  of  Charlestown , with  3 pleasant 
villages  and  3 inns. 

This  town  was  settled  under  the  authority  and  by  the  people  of  Massachusetts, 
in  1740,  and  was  named  Number  Four.  A garrisoned  fort  was  located  here,  and 
between  1746  and  1760  the  enemy  committed  many  depredations  in  the  vicinity. 
The  fort  was  formally  besieged  in  August,  1746,  and  after  a successful  defence,  the 
garrison  and  colonists  abandoned  the  place.  In  1747,  Capt.  Stevens  reoccupied  it 
with  30  men,  under  orders  from  the  Mass,  government.  He  was  soon  attacked  by 
Debeline,  a skilful  partisan,  with  400  French  and  Indians,  who  besieged  the  Fort  for 
three  days,  exhausting  every  appliance  of  craft  and  tactics.  Debeline  threatened 
to  massacre  the  garrison  unless  they  surrendered,  but  they  sent  back  a defiant 
answer,  and  a long  and  desperate  attack  followed.  The  heroic  handful  of  pro- 
vincials multiplied  themselves  and  repelled  the  attacks  on  every  side,  until  the 
enemy  withdrew  and  retreated  to  Canada.  Capt.  Stevens  was  highly  honored  by 
the  people,  and  Commodore  Sir  Charles  Knowles,  whose  ship  then  lay  at  Boston, 
sent  him  an  elegant  sword.  When  the  tract  was  resettled,  it  was  called  Charles- 
town, in  honor  of  Sir  Charles.  During  the  later  French  wars  this  was  the  prin- 
cipal station  on  the  military  road  between  the  New  England  coast  and  Ticonderoga 
and  Montreal.  The  remains  of  the  Fort  were  plainly  perceptible  in  1810. 

Charlestown  village  is  situated  between  two  broad,  rich  meadows,  and 
has  some  neat  buildings,  on  a long,  wide,  well-shaded  street.  “ Its  se- 
cluded loveliness  is  calculated  to  awaken  the  admiration  of  the  traveller.” 
Across  the  river  is  the  town  of  Springfield  {Springfield  House),  with 
some  romantic  scenery  on  the  Black  River,  which  falls  110  ft.  in  600  ft., 
with  one  sheer  fall  of  50  ft.  The  deep,  narrow  ravines  and  canons  cut  by 
this  river  in  the  slate  rocks  are  very  picturesque. 

Station,  Claremont  Junction,  soon  after  leaving  which  the  line  crosses 
Sugar  River  by  a bridge  600  ft.  long  and  105  ft.  above  the  water.  The 
rich  intervales  of  the  Conn,  are  now  crossed,  with  Ascutney  Mt.  on  the 
1.,  and  the  train  passes  over  the  river  on  a bridge  whose  predecessor  was 
carried  away  by  ice  in  1866.  Station,  Windsor  (Windsor  House),  a pretty 
village  on  highlands  over  the  river  and  near  the  foot  of  Ascutney.  It  is 
a flourishing  town,  with  some  manufactures  and  a large  country  trade. 
It  has  4 churches,  a bank,  2 weekly  papers,  a fine  Government  building 
used  for  U.  S.  Courts  and  Post  Office,  and  the  Vermont  State  Prison 
(which  usually  has  70-90  prisoners).  At  Windsor,  during  a fearful 


166  Route  24. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


thunder-storm,  and  with  the  appalling  news  of  the  fall  of  Fort  Ticonde- 
roga  ringing  in  their  ears,  the  deputies  of  the  Vermont  towns  adopted  the 
constitution  of  the  State,  July  2,  1777. 

Ascutney  Mt.  lies  S.  E.  of  the  village.  A road  has  been  constructed  to  the 
summit  (5  M.),  and  a small  house  has  been  built  there  for  a shelter.  Horses  and 
guides  from  the  Windsor  House.  A fine  view  is  obtained  from  this  isolated 
peak,  which  is  3,320  ft.  above  the  sea.  In  the  W.  and  N.  W.  are  Shrewsbury  and 
Killington  Peaks,  near  Rutland,  while  the  Green  Mt.  chain  runs  off  to  the  N.  in 
a long  line  of  rounded  summits.  The  hill  towns  of  Windham  Co.  are  seen  in  the 
N.,  and  the  Conn.  River  and  valley  close  at  hand  in  the  E.  stretch  away  to  the 
N.  and  S.  through  a pleasant  farming  country.  Croydon,  Sunapee,  and  Kearsarge 
Mts.  are  seen  in  the  E.,  the  latter  being  dimly  outlined  on  the  horizon.  The  In- 
dian name  Ascutney  means  “Three  Brothers,”  and  is  supposed  to  refer  to  three 
singular  valleys  which  run  down  the  W.  slope  of  the  Mt.  There  are  marks  of 
volcanic  action  here,  and  the  early  settlers  often  saw  a lurid  light  hanging  over 
the  summit  on  winter  nights.  Daily  stages  run  to  Cornish  and  Plainfield,  N.  H.  ; 
also  to  W.  Windsor,  Reading  (12  M.),  and  Proctorsville  (22  M.). 

Salmon  P.  Chase  was  born  at  Cornish  in  1808.  His  father  was  a prominent 
Portland  lawyer  ; his  uncle,  Dudley  Chase,  was  U.  S.  Senator,  1813-17,  and  1825- 
31;  and  his  uncle,  Philander  Chase,  was  Prot.-Epis.  Bishop  of  Ohio,  1819-31, 
and  of  Illinois  in  1835-52.  (These  three,  together  with  their  brothers,  Baruch 
and  Pleber  Chase,  were  born  at  Cornish,  and  graduated  from  Dartmouth  College.) 
He  settled  in  Ohio  about  1830  in  the  practice  of  law,  became  a leader  in  the  anti- 
slavery movement,  and  was  U.  S.  Senator,  1849- 55,  and  Governor  of  Ohio,  1855-59. 
In  1861  he  became  Secretary  of  the  U.  S.  Treasury,  and  rendered  great  service  to 
the  Union  by  his  skilful  financial  policy  during  the  Rebellion.  He  resigned  in 
1864,  and  late  in  the  same  year  was  made  Chief  Justice  of  the  United  States.  On 
May  7,  1873,  Mr.  Chase  died  in  New  York  City. 

Stations  beyond  Windsor,  Hartland,  N.  Hcirtland,  and  White  River 
Junction  (see  Route  29). 

Just  after  leaving  the  Junction,  the  train  crosses  White  River,  and 
passes  to  Norwich , where  a large  military  school  called  the  Norwich 
University  was  established  from  1834  to  1866,  when  its  buildings  were 
burnt  and  the  school  was  removed  to  Northfield.  The  village  ( Union 
House)  is  about  1 M.  W.  of  the  station.  Stages  from  Norwich  station 
run  to  Hanover , about  g M.  S.  E.,  across  the  Connecticut  River.  Han- 
over (Dartmouth  House)  is  the  seat  of  Dartmouth  College,  which  ranks 
among  the  first  of  American  educational  institutions. 

This  college  was  founded  here  in  1770  by  Rev.  Eleazer  Wheelock,  as  a school 
for  missionaries  to  the  Indians,  and  for  Christian  Indians,  and  had  at  first  24 
students,  domiciled  in  huts  built  of  green  logs,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a vast 
wilderness.  44,000  acres  of  land  were  granted  to  it  by  the  State,  which  also  raised 
a building  150  by  50  ft.  for  its  use,  while  money  was  sent  to  its  aid  by  English 
patrons.  The  project  of  educating  the  Indians  was  rendered  subordinate  after  a 
carefuPtrial,  several  Masters  of  Arts  having  returned  to  savage  life.  The  College 
(named  for  the  Earl  of  Dartmouth,  President  of  its  board  of  trustees)  had  150 
students  in  the  year  1790.  In  1871  it  had  27  instructors  and  382  students.  Between 
1771  and  1867  it  graduated  3,550  men,  3 of  whom  have  been  U.  S.  Cabinet  Ministers  ; 
15  have  been  U.  S.  Senators,  and  61  Representatives ; 31  Judges  of  the  U.  S.  and 
State  Supreme  Courts  ; 15  Governors  ; 4 Ambassadors  ; 25  Presidents  of  Colleges  ; 
104  Professors  ; and  800  Clergymen.  The  degree  of  LL.  D.  has  been  conferred  on 
24  alumni,  and  that  of  D.  D.  on  106.  “Not  to  enlarge,  with  few  exceptions,  her 
(Dartmouth’s)  influence  in  religion  has  been  emphatically  conservative,  and  her 
sympathies  in  a national  point  of  view  eminently  patriotick.  She  has  been  the 
mfrsery  of  sound  divines,  devoted  missionaries,  profound  jurists,  skilful  physicians, 
brilliant  statesmen,  accomplished  scholars,  classical  and  learned  writers.  Such 
are  the  worthies  she  has  given  to  the  Union,  and  on  these  rest  her  claims  to  a 
nation’s  gratitude.”  (Chapman.) 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


Ptoute  24.  1G7 


Among  the  most  distinguished  alumni  of  Dartmouth  were  John  Wheelock,  its 
second  President,  1779-1815;  Asa  Burton  ; President  Porter,  of  Andover  Semi- 
nary ; Heman  Allen ; Gen.  Ripley,  the  hero  of  Niagara  and  Chippewa ; Alvan 
Hyde,  D.  D.,  LL.  D.  ; Amos  Kendall ; Senator  Levi  Woodbury;  Daniel  Poor,  the 
Ceylon  missionary ; Judge  Joel  Parker  ; J.  B.  Felt,  the  annalist ; B.  Greenleaf,  the 
arithmetician;  T.  C.  Upham,  D.  D.,  the  metaphysician;  Alpheus  Crosby,  the 
philologist  ; Nathan  Lord,  D.  D.,  the  6th  President ; and  Asa  D.  Smith,  D.  D., 
the  7th  and  present  President  of  Dartmouth  ; J.  H.  Noyes,  the  founder  of  the 
Oneida  Community  ; C.  E.  Potter,  the  author  ; John  Lord,  the  historical  essayist ; 
R.  B.  Kimball,  the  author  ; Gen.  Shepley ; G.  P.  Marsh,  the  philologist  and  diplo- 
matist ; Bishops  Chase  aud  Dorr  ; George  Ticknor,  the  historian  of  Spanish 
literature  ; Senator  Rufus  Choate,  the  lawyer  and  orator ; Salmon  P.  Chase,  the 
statesman  and  jurist ; and  Daniel  Webster. 

The  famous  Dartmouth  College  case  was  opened  early  in  the  present  century  by 
the  State  of  N.  H.  attempting  to  infringe  on  the  vested  rights  of  the  College. 
After  much  litigation,  the  case  was  decided  by  the  State  Supreme  Court  against 
the  College.  It  was  then  carried  by  appeal  to  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United 
States,  where,  after  long  arguments  by  the  leading  lawyers  of  America,  — Daniel 
’Webster  defending  Dartmouth,  — the  State  judgment  was  reversed,  and  the  College 
was  restored  to  its  ancient  privileges  and  independence. 

The  college  fronts  on  a fine  campus,  in  the  centre  of  Hanover  village, 
and  on  an  upland  plain  near  the  Conn.  River.  Dartmouth  Hall  is  the 
long  central  building  (in  which  is  the  chapel),  while  in  line  with  it  are 
Wentworth  and  Thornton  Halls.  In  front  of  the  line  is  Reed  Hall,  con- 
taining the  college  library  of  about  40,000  volumes  (difficult  of  access). 
These  buildings  are  old  and  plain,  contrasting  with  Culver  Plall,  a hand- 
some new  structure  E.  of  the  line,  in  which  there  are  fine  lecture-rooms,  a 
small  natural  history  collection,  and  the  State  museum  of  minerals. 
Bissel  Hall  is  a new  gymnasium,  fronting  on  the  campus.  N.  of  the 
college  is  the  Chandler  Scientific  School,  while  the  Medical  College  and 
the  observatory  are  in  the  vicinity.  An  Alumni  Hall  is  to  be  erected. 
The  scenery  about  this  quiet  academic  village  is  fine,  embracing  tall  hills 
to  the  E.  and  S. , and  upland  plains  along  the  Conn.  River. 

After  leaving  Norwich,  the  train  crosses  the  Ompompanoosuc  River,  and 
stops  at  Pompanoosuc , whence  large  quantities  of  copperas  are  shipped 
away,  to  be  made  into  sulphuric  acid.  The  mines  are  at  Copperas  Hill, 
10  M.  N.  W.,  and  the  copperas  is  separated  from  other  elements  by  a 
long  and  difficult  process,  and  precipitated  in  green  crystals.  Nearly  400 
tons  a year  are  converted  into  vitriol  in  chemical  works  near  Boston, 
while  a great  quantity  of  the  copperas  is  used  as  a mordant  in  dye- 
factories. 

Distant  views  of  Moosilauke  and  Bald  Mts.  are  obtained  as  the  train 
approaches  Thetford  (two  small  inns).  Thetford  village  is  1 M.  W.  of 
the  station,  and  on  the  E.  is  the  large  farming  town  of  Lyme , N.  H.,  to 
which  stages  run  4 times  daily  (Perkins  House). 

Daily  stages  run  N.  W.  to  W.  Fairlee  (9  M.)  and  Vershire  (15  M.)  with  its  ex- 
tensive copper-mines,  also  to  Chelsea,  the  shire-town.  Vershire  had  1,054  inhabi- 
tants in  1860,  of  whom  113  men  joined  the  Union  army.  Nearly  11  per  cent  of 
her  population  was  at  the  front.  • 

Station  N.  Thetford , whence  much  copper  ore  from  Corinth  is  sent  to 


168  Route  24. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUELEC. 


Baltimore  (by  water  from  Portsmouth)  and  smelted.  Station,  Fairlee 
and  Oxford , the  former  being  a hilly  tow  abounding  in  lakes,  one  of 
which  is  nearly  3 M.  long.  Pickerel  are  found  in  these  waters.  Just 
across  the  river  from  Fairlee  is  the  N.  H.  town  of  Oxford  (stage  to  Orford 
Hotel),  with  a beautifully  located  village  which  has  become  a favorite 
summer-home  for  lovers  of  tranquillity  and  rural  life.  Cube  Mt.  and  Mt. 
Sunday  are  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  there  are  several  large  ponds. 
Cube  Mt.,  in  the  W.,  is  2,273  ft.  high,  and  has  a chain  of  5 lakes  on  its  W. 
side.  Cube  Falls  and  the  perpendicular  cliffs  of  gray  granite  on  Saw- 
yer’s Mt.  are  worthy  of  notice. 

Station,  Bradford  (Trotter  House),  a prosperous  manufacturing  village 
on  Wait’s  River.  In  the  N.  W.  is  Wright’s  Mt.,  where  one  Wright,  who 
claimed  to  be  a prophet,  had  a hermitage  in  a dismal  rocky  cleft,  now 
called  the  Devil’s  Den.  The  town  has  a scientific  association,  an  academy, 
a weekly  newspaper,  and  a savings-bank. 

Stages  run  to  Corinth,  Topsliam  (13  M.  N.  W.),  Orange  (17  M.),  and  Montpelier 
(30  M.) ; also  to  Washington  and  Barre,  and  to  the  N.  H.  farming  town  of  Pier- 
mont,  beyond  the  Conn.  River. 

Stations,  S.  Newbury  and  Newbury  (the  Spring  Hotel,  closed  in  1869-72, 
will  probably  be  reopened  in  1873;  Newbury  House).  This  beautiful 
village  stands  on  a'terrace  above  the  rich  Ox  Bow  intervales,  where  a great 
bend  of  the  river  nearly  insulates  a tract  of  fertile  alluvial  meadow-land. 
Mt.  Pulaski  is  near  Newbury,  and  commands  a noble  view,  embracing 
the  fruitful  and  carpet-like  Ox  Bow  meadows,  the  village  of  Haverhill,  and 
the  winding  river,  with  Moosilauke  in  the  S.  E.,  and  the  Pemigewasset 
and  Franconia  Mts.  in  the  E.  \ M.  from  the  Hotel  are  the  Newbury 
Sulphur  Springs  (bath-houses,  &c. ),  in  a little  glen  near  the  verge  of  the 
intervale,  and  a charming  twilight  walk  is  that  along  the  borders  of  these 
level  meadows,  with  the  sombre  mountains  beyond. 

This  town  was  founded  about  1764  by  Gen.  Bailey,  of  Newbury,  Mass.  During 
the  Revolution  a detachment  of  British  soldiers  came  here  to  take  Bailey,  but  a 
friend  went  over  to  the  held  where  he  was  ploughing  and  dropped  in  the  furrow  a 
note  saying,  “ The  Philistines  be  upon  thee,  Samson  ! ” On  returning  down  the 
long  furrow  Bailey  saw  the  note,  took  the  hint,  and  fled  to  securer  regions.  The 
meadows  of  Cods  about  Newbury  were  the  home  of  a large  tribe  of  Indians,  who 
tilled  the  adjacent  lands,  caught  salmon  and  trout  in  the  rivers,  and  chased  wild 
game  through  the  mountains.  These  pleasant  lands  were  abandoned  in  terror 
after  Lovewell's  battle  in  Pequawket. 

The  beautiful  scenery  along  the  PassumpMc  line  changes  to  grandeur  as 
the  train  runs  N.  Station,  Wells  River  ( Coosuck  House),  where  the 
Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  and  White  Mts.  R.  R.  touches  this  line  on 
its  W.  angle  (20  M.  to  Littleton.  See  Route  30). 

The  Montpelier  and  Wells  River  R.  R.  will  probably  be  completed  from  this 
point  to  the  capital  of  the  State  (about  25  M.  N.  of  W.  ) in  the  summer  of  1873. 
Stages  now  run  to  Ryegate,  5 M.  N.  W.  (Blue  Mountain  House),  a Presbyterian 
town  settled  in  1774  by  a colony  of  farmers  from  the  Scottish  shires  of  Renfrew 
and  Lanark.  Blue  Mt.  is  a high  granite  ridge  in  the  N.  W.  The  stage-road  fob 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


Route  24.  160 


lows  lip  Wells  River  to  Groton  (small  inn).  In  the  N.  W.  part  of  Groton  is  Long 
Pond,  4 M.  long  and  1 M.  wide,  with  a hotel  (the  Lake  House)  on  its  S.  shore, 
which  affords  good  facilities  for  boating  and  fishing.  This  pond  is  1,100  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  near  it  is  the  pretty  Little  Pond'  1 M.  by  £ M. 

Beyond  Wells  River,  the  train  stops  at  Mclndoe's  Falls , with  large 
lumber-mills,  and  Barnet,  a Scotch  Presbyterian  town,  settled  in  1775. 
Stages  run  to  Peacham.  Soon  after  leaving  Barnet,  the  line  passes  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Passumjosic  River,  where  Rogers’  Rangers,  returning 
from  their  raid  on  the  St.  Francis  Indians,  failed  to  find  an  expected  depot 
of  provisions.  Many  of  the  famishing  men  died  there,  while  others  made 
a cannibal  feast  on  the  flesh  of  a slain  Indian.  In  his  disastrous  retreat 
from  St.  Francis  to  Charle&town,  Rogers  lost  nearly  half  of  his  command, 
and  it  is  said  that  36  of  his  men  died  in  18  hours  here  on  the  Passumpsic 
meadows. 

Just  beyond  Barnet  (famed  for  its  butter)  begin  the  15-Mile  Falls  on 
the  Conn.  River.  Stations,  McLeran's  and  Passumjosic,  with  falls  on  the 
Passumpsic  River,  which  here  rolls  between  black,  rocky  banks.  Station, 
St.  Johnsbury  (St.  Johnsbury  House , on  the  hill  ; Avenue  House,  near 
the  station),  a busy  town  of  nearly  5,000  inhabitants,  with  many  neat 
villas  and  large  manufactories.  It  was  settled  in  1786,  and  named  in 
honor  of  St.  John  de  Crevecoeur,  French  Consul  at  New  York,  and  a bene- 
factor of  Vermont.  The  Court  House  of  Caledonia  County  is  a fine 
building,  on  the  hill,  directly  in  front  of  which  is  a * Soldiers’  Monument, 
consisting  of  a statue  of  America  (by  Mead),  on  a pedestal  inscribed  with 
the  names  of  6 officers  and  74  men  from  this  town,  who  died  in  the  Seces- 
sion War.  Near  the  monument  is  the  Athenaeum,  with  9,000  volumes  in 
a good  library  building.  There  is  also  a reading-room  with  papers  and 
magazines,  and  an  art-gallery  is  projected.  The  St.  Johnsbury  Academy 
is  a large  and  well-attended  school,  and  the  other  schools  of  the  village 
occupy  neat  buildings.  There  are  several  churches  here,  the  best  of  which 
is  the  Catholic  Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Victories.  The  village  has  also  2 
banks  and  2 weekly  newspapers. 

There  are  manufactures  of  mowing  and  threshing  machines  and  other  things, 
but  the  reason  of  being  for  St.  Johnsbury  is  the  extensive  scale  factory  of  E.  & T. 
Fairbanks  & Co.  The  works  of  this  company  are  in  a glen  on  Sleeper’s  River, 
and  occupy  10  acres  of  ground.  5 - 600  men  are  employed  and  300  varieties  of 
scales  are  made,  from  the  most  delicate  letter-scales  to  those  huge  machines  which 
weigh  loaded  cars  and  canal-boats  (500  tons  capacity).  In  1830,  during  the  excite- 
ment about  hemp  culture,  the  Fairbanks  brothers  established  a hemp-dressing 
factory,  and  Thaddeus  invented  the  platform  scale.  It  was  patented  in  America 
and  England,  and  up  to  1861  the  company  sold  96,658  portable  scales,  8,872  hay 
and  track  scales,  and  94,712  counter  and  even  balances.  Since  1861  the  sales  have 
been  much  greater,  proportionally,  and  in  1869  the  yearly  sales  were  stated  as 
50,000  small  scales,  and  several  hundred  hay  and  platform  scales.  125  men  are 
engaged  in  the  Fairbanks’  service  in  other  towns  and  cities  ; while  the  works  con- 
sume 18  tons  of  iron  daily,  in  three  cupola  furnaces.  The  scales  which  have  been 
made  in  large  quantities  for  Oriental  States  are  curious,  being  marked  with 
Chinese  and  Turkish  numerals,  according  to  their  peculiar  systems  of  weights. 
The  works  use  yearly  3,000  tons  of  American  iron,  1,000  tons  of  Scotch  iron,  and 
3,000,000  ft.  of  lumber. 

8 


170  Route  24. 


NEW  YOKE  TO  QUEBEC. 


After  leaving  St.  Johnsbury  the  line  passes  through  the  town  of  Lyndon, 
which  has  three  villages,  and  within  whose  borders  are  the  Great  Falls  of 
the  Passumpsic.  The  soil  of  the  town  is  rich  and  valuable.  At  Lyndon- 
ville  (Walker’s  Hotel)  are  the  offices  and  repair-shops  of  the  Passumpsic 

R.  R. 

Stages  run  to  Sheffield,  7 M.  N.  W.,  and  to  Wheelock,  6 M.  W.  The  Caledonia 
Springs  (small  hotel)  are  at  the  latter  place. 

Station,  W.  Burke , before  reaching  which  a fine  view  is  afforded  of  the 
bold  Burke  Mt.  Carriages  may  be  taken  from  Trull’s  Hotel  (inferior) 
near  the  station,  for  * Willoughby  Lake,  6 M.  N.  The  road  affords  a 
continual  view  of  the  two  singular  mountains  between  which  the  lake  is 
situated.  The  Willoughby  Lake  House  was  closed  in  1872,  but  it  is 
thought  that  it  will  open  in  the  summer  of  1873.  This  lake  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  on  the  continent,  being  situated  between  two  immense 
mountains,  whose  bases  meet  far  below  its  waters.  The  lake  is  6 M.  long, 
and  in  places  2 M.  wide,  while  its  depth  is  very  great,  and  not  yet  known, 
a line  of  100  fathoms  having  run  out  without  finding  bottom. 

A carriage  road  along  the  E.  shore,  or  a boat  on  the  quiet  waters,  gives 
opportunity  to  see  the  beauties  of  the  lake  and  the  grandeur  of  its  sur- 
rounding walls.  The  mountain  on  the  W.  shore  is  called  Mt.  Hor,  and 
is  somewhat  more  than  1,500  ft.  above  the  water.  The  E.  shore  mountain 
is  called  Mt.  Willoughby,  Pisgah,  or  Annanance,  in  different  books  and 
maps.  As  Mr.  Eastman  remarks,  Annanance  seems  more  appropriate, 
since  that  was  the  name  of  a brave  chief  of  the  St.  Francis  Indians  who 
once  lived  here.  A vast  precipice  of  granite,  2 M.  long  and  600  ft.  sheer 
down,  runs  along  the  side  of  Mount  Annanance,  while  the  long  slope 
below  is  rocky  and  steep.  The  peak  is  2,638  ft.  above  the  lake,  and 
3,800  ft.  above  the  sea.  From  the  hotel  to  the  summit  of  Annanance 
it  is  a pleasant  forest  walk  of  about  2 M.  A vast  * view  over  the  Conn, 
valley  is  obtained  from  this  point,  extending  to  the  Franconia  and 
White  Mts.  on  the  S.  E.,  and  it  is  said  that  the  hotels  on  Mt.  Washing- 
ton may  be  seen  with  a strong  glass.  On  the  N.  W.  are  Owl’s  Head  (in 
Canada)  and  Jay  Peak,  from  which  the  stately  line  of  the  Green  Mts.  runs 

S. ,  with  the  peaks  of  Mansfield,  Camel’s  Hump,  and  Killington  (near  Rut- 
land) all  visible.  From  the  verge  of  the  cliffs  on  the  W.  Mt.  Hor  is  seen 
close  at  hand,  and  the  observer  can  look  down  on  and  far  into  the  lake, 
so  transparent  are  its  waters.  Geologists  think  that  the  chasm  between 
these  mountains  was  caused  by  the  rush  of  a northern  current  during  the 
drift  period,  which  eat  away  the  decomposed  limestone  between  the  two 
granite  peaks.  Very  rare  plants  and  flowers  are  found  on  Mt.  Anna- 
nance,  especially  at  the  “ Flower  Garden,”  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs,  600 
ft.  above  the  Devil’s  Den,  on  the  lakeside  road.  The  Silver  Cascade 
and  the  Point  of  Rocks  are  found  farther  out  on  the  same  road.  Trout 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


Route  2 4 . 171 


and  muscalonge  abound  in  the  cool  crystal  waters  of  the  lake.  Excursions 
are  made  from  the  hotel  to  Burke  Mt.  (10  M.  S.),  Barton  (11  M.  W.), 
Plunket  Falls  (12  M.),  and  Newark  ) 6 M.  S.  E.),  famed  for  its  production 
of  sugar  from  vast  forests  of  sugar-maples . 

Near  the  flag  station  at  S.  Barton  the  summit  is  passed,  and  the  water- 
shed of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  entered.  Jay  Peak  is  seen  in  the  N.  W.  Sta- 
tion, Barton  (Crystal  Lake  House),  a manufacturing  village  in  a town 
named  for  its  first  proprietor,  Gen.  Barton.  Crystal  Lake  (by  which 
the  track  passes)  is  a pretty  sheet  of  water  containing  about  2 square 
miles.  About  1J  M.  distant  on  the  E.  is  the  Flume,  where  a brook  flows 
through  a natural  passage  in  the  granite  rock,  140  ft.  long,  10  ft.  wide, 
and  20  - 30  ft.  deep.  The  granite  walls  are  smooth  and  perpendicular. 

In  1810,  the  people  determined  to  deepen  Barton  River  by  turning  Long  Pond 
(the  source  of  the  Lamoille)  into  it.  They  had  "barely  completed  a channel  from 
Long  Pond  to  the  pond-reservoir  of  the  Barton  River,  when  its  waters  burst 
through  with  tremendous  force,  and  swept  down  to  Lake  Memphremagog,  wreck- 
ing everything  in  their  path,  and  causing  immense  damage.  The  bed  of  Long 
Pond  is  now  dry,  and  is  called  Runaway  Pond. 

Stages  run  from  Barton  to  Montpelier , 36  M.  S.  W.  through  the  towns  of  Glover , 
Greensboro ’,  Hardwick,  Woodbury,  and  Calais.  Also  to  Craftsbury  and  Albany. 

Station,  Barton  Landing  (Valley  House),  which  was  much  resorted  to  by 
smugglers  in  1812-15.  Stages  run  4 M.  W.  to  Irasburgh  (Irasburgh 
House,  large  and  good),  a beautiful  rural  village,  and  the  shire-town  of 
Orleans  County. 

Stations,  Coventry  and  Newport  (* Memphremagog  House,  $ 4.00  a day, 
300  guests,  a large,  first-class  hotel  on  the  lake  shore  ; Newport  House  ; 
Lake  House). 

Lake  Memphremagog. 

The  village  of  Newport  is  at  the  upper  (S.)  end  of  this  lake,  and  is  365  M.  from 
New  York,  230  M.  from  Boston,  and  164  M.  from  Quebec.  It  is  built  upon 
Pickerel  Point,  and  from  the  edge  of  the  village  rises  Prospect  Hill,  whence 
fine  lake . views  are  gained,  and  the  Mts.  Owl’s  Head,  Elephantis,  Orford, 
Jay  Peak,  and  Annanance  are  seen.  Other  excursions  from  Newport  are  to 
Clyde  River  Falls  (2  M.),  Mt.  Morrill  (2  M.),  Bear  Mt.  (7  M.),  and  Bolton  Springs 
(in  Canada,  14  M.).  Steamers  leave  every  morning  from  the  quay  near  the  great 
hotel,  for  Magog,  returning  in  the  evening. 

The  original  Indian  name  of  this  lake  was  Memphremagog,  or  Memplowbowque 
(names  possibly  used  by  different  tribes),  which  is  said  to  mean  Beautiful  Water. 
Some  see  in  it  a resemblance  to  Loch  Lomond,  others  to  Lake  George,  while  still 
others  call  it  the  Geneva  of  Canada.  The  lake  is  30  M.  long  and  2 - 4 M.  wide, 
and  two-thirds  of  it  lies  in  Canada.  The  waters  are  cold  and  clear,  abounding  in 
trout  and  muscalonge,  the  shores  are  romantically  uneven  and  rock-bound,  and 
tall,  wooded  mountains  rise  on  either  hand.  The  voyage  to  Magog,  at  the  N.  end 
of  the  lake,  usually  takes  3-4  hours,  nearly  50  M.  being  traversed.  By  leaving 
Magog  on  the  afternoon  boat  (about  4.30  P.  M.),  a fine  sunset  on  the  mountains 
may  be  seen. 

The  steamer  passes  out  by  Indian  Point,  on  the  E.,  and  a distant  view 
of  Stanstead  village  is  soon  obtained,  between  the  evergreen-covered 
islets  known  as  the  Twin  Sisters  (on  the  E.).  Soon  after  Province  Island 


172  Route  24. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


is  passed,  and  the  steamer  crosses  into  Canada.  The  boundary  is  marked 
by  clearings  in  the  forests  on  either  side.  Next,  on  the  E.,  is  the  small, 
Gedar-covered  Tea  Table  Island,  and  beyond  it  the  Canadian  village  of 
Cedarville.  Bear  Mt.  looms  up  on  the  W.  shore,  and  the  scattered  farms 
of  the  town  of  Potton,  while  Fitch’s  Bay  stretches  far  in  shore  to  the  N. 
E.  The  round  summit  of  Owl’s  Head  is  now  approached  on  the  W. 
Magoon’s  Point  (011  the  E.)  is  near  a large  cavern,  where  the  treasures  of 
a cathedral  are  said  to  have  been  hidden.  The  legend  is  probably  de- 
rived from  the  fact  that  Rogers’  Rangers  retreated  down  the  E.  shore  of 
Lake  Memphremagog,  after  sacking  and  destroying  the  church  and  village 
of  the  St.  Francis  Indians.  Besides  the  rich  plate  of  the  church,  they 
secured  two  golden  candlesticks,  and  a silver  image  weighing  10  pounds. 
The  candlesticks  were  hidden  near  the  lake  (no  mention  is  made  of  the 
disposal  of  the  other  articles),  and  were  found  in  1816.  The  steamer 
stops  at  the  Mountain  House,  12  M.  from  Newport,  in  a sequestered  posi- 
tion at  the  foot  of  Owl’s  Head,  and  near  the  best  fishing-grounds  on  the 
lake. 

The  mountain  is  ascended  by  a foot-path  (in  2 hours)  which  passes  through 
forests  and  fields,  and  by  numerous  curious  rock-formations.  The  summit  is 
2,743  ft.  above  the  lake,  and  commands  a broad  view,  including  the  greater  part 
of  the  lake  and  its  islands.  On  the  S.  is  Newport  village  and  part  of  the  Clyde 
valley,  with  the  nearer  summits  of  Bear  Mt.  and  Hawk  Mt.,  also  Jay  Peak  and 
part  of  the  Missisquoi  valley.  In  the  W.  are  the  tall  foot-hills  of  the  Green  Mts., 
while  Brome  Lake  is  seen  in  the  N.  W.,  and  far  beyond  it  the  city  of  Montreal  is 
visible  on  a clear  day.  Nearer,  in  the  same  direction,  are  the  Hog’s  Back  and 
Elephantis  Mts.  Orford  Mt.  looms  at  the  head  of  the  lake  on  the  N.,  and  in  the 
N.  W.  are  the  pretty  lakes  of  Little  Magog  and  Massawippi.  In  the  E.  are  several 
villages  in  Stanstead  and  Derby.  Mt.  Annanance  is  seen  in  the  S.  E.  over  Wil- 
loughby Lake,  and,  far  beyond,  the  dim  blue  peaks  of  the  White  Mts.  rise  on  the 
horizon-line.  The  contrast  between  the  rugged  country  towards  Lake  Champlain 
and  the  vast  plains  to  the  N.,  traversed  by  the  glittering  rivers  St.  Lawrence  and 
St.  Francis,  is  very  great,  and  an  element  of  rare  beauty  is  added  by  the  exten- 
sive view  over  the  lake  below.  Amid  these  sublime  scenes,  in  a glen  near  the 
summit,  the  Golden  Rule  Lodge  of  Masons,  from  Stanstead,  celebrate  tlie  mys- 
teries of  their  order  on  the  24th  of  J une  of  each  year. 

! M.  from  the  Mountain  House  is  Round  Island,  which  resembles 
Dome  Island,  on  Lake  George,  or  Ellen’s  Isle,  on  Loch  Katrine.  Farther 
E.  is  Minnow  Island,  near  which  trout  abound.  Skinner's  Island  is  also 
E.  of  the  hotel,  and  has  on  its  N.  W.  side  a cavern  in  the  rock,  30  ft. 
long,  10  ft.  wide  (at  the  entrance),  and  12-14  ft.  high.  The  legend  is 
that  a celebrated  smuggler  named  Skinner  (in  1812)  always  eluded  the 
closest  pursuit  of  the  customs  officers,  by  disappearing  near  this  point. 
One  night,  after  a long  chase,  the  officers  found  his  boat  on  this  island, 
and  turned  it  adrift  on  Jthe  lake.  Some  years  afterward  a fisherman, 
lying  under  the  lee  of  the  island  to  escape  a squall,  discovered  the  cave, 
hidden  under  heavy  foliage. 

“ And  what  do  you  think  the  fisherman  found? 

Neither  a prolden  nor  a silver  prize, 

But  a skull  with  sockets  where  once  were  eyes  ; 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC.  Route  U.  173 


Also  some  bones  of  arms  and  thighs, 

And  a vertebral  column  of  giant  size  ; 

How  they  got  there,  he  could  n’t  devise. 

For  he ’d  only  been  used  to  commonplace  graves. 

And  knew  naught  of  “ organic  remains  ” in  caves  ; 

On  matters  like  those  his  wits  were  dull, 

So  he  dropped  the  subject  as  well  as  the  skull. 

’T  is  needless  to  say 
In  this  later  day, 

’T  was  the  smuggler's  bones  in  the  cave  that  lay  : 

All  I ve  to  add  is  — the  bones  in  a grave 

"Were  placed,  and  the  cavern  was  called  ‘ Skinner’s  Cave.’  ” 

N.  of  this  point  is  Long  Island , with  palisades  on  its  N.  W.  side,  and 
an  immense  rocking-stone  called  Balance  Bock  on  the  S.  shore.  On  Mol- 
son’s  Island , still  farther  N. , is  the  mansion  of  a wealthy  Montreal  gentle- 
man. On  the  W.  shore,  1 M.  above  the  hotel,  are  cliffs  700  ft.  high,  and 
as  the  steamer  goes  N.  the  sharper  outlines  of  Owl’s  Head  become  prom- 
inent. Mt.  Elephantis,  or  Sugar  Loaf,  is  above  Owl’s  Head  on  the  W. 
shore,  and  is  thought  to  resemble  an  elephant’s  head  and  back.  Far  up 
on  the  W.  slope  of  Elephantis  is  a beautiful  mountain  tarn,  2 M.  long  by 
J M.  wide,  and  abounding  in  trout.  The  steamer  touches  at  Georgeville 
(Camperdown  House),  a pretty  village  on  the  E.  shore,  where  many 
Canadians  pass  the  summer.  The  lake  is  now  crossed  (3  M.)  to  Knowl- 
ton's  Landing  (16  M.  from  Newport),  at  the  mouth  of  Sergeant’s  Bay. 
This  crossing  has  long  been  the  main  route  to  Montreal  from  the  Eastern 
Townships  (Stanstead  County),  as  stages  run  from  Knowlton’s  to  the  rail- 
road station  at  Waterloo  (20  M. ).  The  steamer  crosses  the  mouth  of  the 
Bay,  passes  the  rocky  Gibraltar  Point  on  the  1.,  and  leaves  the  more 
mountainous  part  of  the  lake,  heading  towards  Orford  Mt.,  which  is  seen 
in  the  N.  A comparatively  narrow  strait  is  passed,  and  then  the  lake 
widens  into  a broad  expanse,  at  the  end  of  which  is  the  village  of  Magog 
(Parks  House),  a small  Canadian  settlement,  with  fine  trout-fishing  in  the 
rapids  of  Magog  Biver.  The  latter  stream  flows  through  Little  Magog 
Lake,  and  empties  the  Memphremagog  waters  into  the  St.  Francis  Biver, 
a noble  tributary  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  5 M.  from  Magog  (carriage-road 
to  the  summit)  is  Orford  Mt .,  the  highest  peak  in  the  Eastern  Townships. 
Its  view  embraces  Memphremagog  and  its  mts.  on  the  S.,  Shefford  Mt. 
on  the  W.,  much  of  the  valley  of  the  St.  Francis  on  the  N.  E.,  and  the 
waters  of  18  lakes.  A vast  pine  forest  covers  much  of  the  country  to  the 
N.  and  W.,  and  Orford  Lake,  at  the  base  of  the  mt.,  has  a weirdly  dark 
and  solitary  appearance. 

Daily  stages  run  from  Magog  to  Sherbrooke  (16  M.  N.  E.),  an  important 
station  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Bailway,  101  M.  from  Montreal  and  196  M. 
from  Portland. 

Newport  to  Quebec. 

Distance,  161  M.  The  time  has  usually  been  10-12  hours,  as  trains  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  do  not  make  close  connections  with  the  Massawippi  line  at 
Sherbrooke  and  Richmond. 


174  Route  24. 


NEW  YORK  TO  QUEBEC. 


The  train  crosses  an  arm  of  the  lake  after  leaving  Newport,  and  enters 
the  rich  farming  town  of  Derby.  Station,  N.  Derby  (Derby  Line  Hotel), 
soon  after  passing  which  the  Anglo-Canadian  frontier  is  crossed.  The 
line  now  enters  the  Eastern  Townships,  of  which  the  riverward  parts 
were  early  settled  by  the  French,  while  the  forest-towns  were  occupied  by 
pioneers  from  New  England  between  1790  and  1800. 

The  Canadian  Hand-Book  calls  this  “as  beautiful  a tract  of  country  as  perhaps 
any  on  the  continent,  both  with  regard  to  mountain  and  lake  scenery,  beautiful 
rivers,  and  fertile  valleys.  The  mountains,  wooded  generally  from  base  to  sum- 
mit, repose  in  majesty  ; and  as  the  mists,  with  which  their  summits  are  not  un- 
frequently  crowned,  withdraw  themselves  in  folds  along  their  sides,  they  reveal  still 
more  of  the  beautiful  and  sublime.  Chasms,  ravines,  and  jjrecipices  are  there, 
and  among  their  solitudes  sublimity  reigns.  Beautiful  lakes  lie  scattered  over 
the  surface  of  the  country,  bordered  here  by  gentle  slopes,  there  by  precipitous  £ 
cliffs  ; cultivated  fields  and  wide-spread  pastures,  with  woods  interspersed  ; val- 
leys and  plains  adorned  with  farmhouses,  single  or  in  groups,  and  beautiful  vil-  ; 
lages.”  t | 

The  first  Canadian  station  is  Stanstead  Junction , whence  a short  branch 
line  runs  to  Stanstead  Plain  (4  trains  daily),  a large  and  thriving  village 
situated  on  fertile  lowlands.  10  M.  E.  is  Piwnacle  Lake  and  Mountain , ' 
the  latter  being  a remarkable  precipitous  peak  which  rises  sheer  from  the 
lake.  After  passing  some  minor  stations,  the  train  reaches  Massawippi , a 
village  in  Hatley  town,  near  which  is  the  beautiful  Lake  Massawippi.  This 
lake  is  9 M.  long  by  1 - 1 \ M.  wide,  and  swarms  with  many  kinds  of  fish, 
among  which  are  maskinonge,  trout,  pike,  pickerel,  bass,  and  mullet.  ! 
Blackberry  Mt.  on  the  E.  shore,  abounds  in  blackberries  during  their  ( 
season.  The  train  now  follows  the  Massawippi  River  for  16  M.  to  its  i 
confluence  with  the  St.  Francis,  at  Lennoxville  (two  inns).  This  is  the  l 
seat  of  Bishops’  College,  an  institute  of  high  reputation,  under  the  care  , 
of  the  Episcopal  Church,  with  preparatory  schools  attached,  and  a staff  of  1 
able  professors.  This  college  has  been  called  “ the  Eton  and  the  Oxford  I 
of  Young  Canada.”  Productive  copper  and  lead  mines  are  worked  in  the 
vicinity  of  Lennoxville. 

Station,  Sherbrooke  ( Sherbrooke  House } Magog  House),  a manufactur- 
ing village  prettily  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Magog  and  St.  Fran- 
cis Rivers.  There  are  long  rapids  in  the  St.  Francis  near  the  village,  and 
other  fine  scenery  in  the  vicinity.  Sherbrooke  is  the  metropolis  of  the 
Eastern  Townships,  and  is  the  most  important  station  between  Montreal 
and  Portland.  It  contains  the  Stanstead  County  buildings,  which  are 
well  situated  on  a commanding  site. 

Stages  run  daily  to  Magog,  16  M.  S.  W.  on  Lake  Memphremagog,  passing  Little 
Magog  Lake. 

At  Sherbrooke  the  traveller  changes  cars,  and  proceeds  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  to  Quebec  (121  M.),  or  to  Montreal  (101  M.).  See  Route  40. 


BOSTON  TO  THE  HOOSAC  TUNNEL.  Route  25.  175 


25.  Boston  to  the  Hoosac  Tunnel. 

Via  Fitchburg  R.  R.  and  Vt.  and  Mass.  R.  R.,  in  13G  M.  Stages  cross  the 
Hoosac  Mt.  to  N.  Adams,  whence  a railroad  line  runs  to  Troy  and  Albany. 
Saratoga  is  sometimes  visited  by  this  route,  but  several  changes  are  necessary. 
The  favorite  route  to  Saratoga  is  by  way  of  Fitchburg,  Bellows  Falls,  Rutland, 
and  Whitehall  (express  trains  in  9-11  hrs.,  without  change  of  cars). 

The  train  leaves  the  fine  castellated  granite  station  of  the  Fitchburg 
Railroad  (PI.  1)  on  Causeway  St.,  near  the  Warren  Bridge  to  Charles- 
town, and  soon  crosses  the  tracks  of  the  Boston  and  Maine,  Eastern,  and 
Boston  and  Lowell  Railroads,  on  their  long  trestles  over  Charles  River. 
Charlestown  Heights  on  the  r.  and  the  long  hills  of  populous  Boston  on 
the  1.  are  in  sight  for  a few  minutes,  then  the  train  runs  past  the  stations, 
Prospect  St.,  Somerville,  Cambridge , Belmont,  and  Waverley.  Near  the 
latter  station  is  the  finest  grove  of  oaks  in  New  England  (see  Flagg’s 
u Woods  and  By-ways  ”). 

Waltham  ( Central  House  ; Prospect  House)  comes  next,  and  is  an  active 
town  of  about  9,000  inhabitants.  Here,  in  1814,  was  erected  the  first  large 
cotton-mill  in  America,  and  extensive  mills  are  still  in  operation  here. 
The  Waltham  Watch  Company’s  works  are  the  largest  in  the  world,  en- 
gaged in  making  watches  ; upwards  of  700,000  of  these  timekeepers  have 
been  sold  in  America,  their  reputation  being  very  high.  Every  part  of 
these  popular  and  justly-celebrated  watches  is  made  by  machine-work, 
while  the  works  of  Swiss  watches  are  formed  by  hand.  The  extensive 
buildings  of  this  company  are  on  the  banks  of  the  Charles  River. 

At  Waltham,  the  track  of  the  Watertown  Branch  rejoins  the  main  line,  after 
passing  several  petty  stations  between  Waltham  and  its  divergent  point  at  Brick- 
yard J unction.  Watertown  is  the  most  important  of  these  points,  while  Mount 
Auburn  and  Fresh  Pond  are  also  frequently  visited  by  this  route. 

N.  P.  Banks  was  bom  at  Waltham  in  1816.  His  parents  were  factory-hands, 
and  he  himself  was  for  some  time  a “ bobbin  boy."  Ajjplying  himself  to  study, 
journalism,  law,  and  polities,  he  rose  rapidly,  and  was  Member  of  Congress  in 
1853  - 72  and  1865  - 7,  Governor  of  Mass.  1858-61.  During  the  Secession  War  he 
was  a Maj.-Gen.,  and  was  defeated  by  Stonewall  Jackson  in  the  Shenandoah  Valley, 
after  which  his  army  was  only  saved  by  its  superior  fleetness.  While  command- 
ing in  Louisiana  he  took  Opelousas  and  Alexandria,  inflicting  severe  losses  on  the 
enemy,  and  then,  after  a long  siege,  the  Mississippi  River  fortress  of  Port  Hudson 
i was  surrendered  to  his  army.  In  1864  he  advanced  far  up  the  Red  River,  but 
after  several  sharp,  sudden  attacks  by  the  Confederate  General  Dick  Taylor,  he 
was  forced  to  make  a rapid  and  disastrous  retreat  with  his  unwieldy  expeditionary 
force.  In  the  Presidential  contest  of  1872,  he  joined  the  Liberal  party,  and  conse- 
quently failed  to  secure  a re-election  to  Congress  in  that  year. 

After  leaving  Waltham,  Prospect  Hill  is  seen  on  the  r.,  from  whose  sum- 
f lliit  (480  ft.  high)  a fine  view  is  obtained  of  Boston  and  its  western  suburbs. 

| The  line  soon  passes  into  the  valley  of  Stony'Brook,  and  beyond  the 
J station  of  that  name,  stops  at  Weston,  1 M.  N.  from  the  bright  upland 
village  of  Weston.  Lincoln  is  M.  S.  W.  of  the  village  in  the  centre  of 
the  town  of  Lincoln,  near  which  are  two  large  ponds  well  stocked  with 


176  Route  25.  BOSTON  TO  THE  HOOSAC  TUNNEL. 


fish.  The  train  soon  gains  the  W.  border  of  the  forest-surrounded  Walden 
Pond , on  whose  banks  lived  Thoreau  (see  page  28). 

At  Concord  Junction  the  Framingham  and  Lowell  Railroad  is  crossed, 
and  then  the  train  passes  the  stations,  S.  Acton , W.  Acton , and  Littleton 
(the  Indian  Naslioba).  From  S.  Acton  a branch  road  runs  to  Marlboro ’ 
(13  M. ),  crossing  the  Pompascitticutt  district  of  the  Indians,  and  stopping 
at  Maynard,  Rockbottom,  and  Hudson. 

Beyond  Littleton  is  Ayer  Junction  (formerly  Groton  Junction),  a 
flourishing  village  and  railroad  centre. 

The  Stony  Brook  Railroad  runs  to  Lowell  (13  M.)  down  the  valley  of  the  Stony 
Brook,  passing  through  the  towns  of  Groton,  Westford,  and  Chelmsford.  Westford 
has  a quiet  village  situated  on  far-viewing  heights. 

The  Peterboro  and  Shirley  Branch  runs  to  Greenville  or  Mason  Village  (N.  H.), 
passing  through  the  towns  of  Groton,  Townsend,  and  Mason.  Townsend  Harbor 
is  a village  on  the  Squanicook  River,  and  Centre  & W.  Townsend  are  small  villages 
of  no  importance.  Mason  Village  was  set  off  under  the  name  of  Greenville  in 
July,  1872,  amid  general  .jubilations  and  a salute  of  40  guns.  It  is  a manufactur- 
ing place,  situated  on  the  Souhegan  River,  which  has  here  a fall  of  80  ft.  in  a 
distance  of  80  rods. 

The  Worcester  and  -Nashua  Railroad  crosses  the  present  route  at  Ayer 
Junction. 

After  leaving  Ayer  Junction,  the  Fitchburg  Railroad  crosses  the  towns 
of  Shirley,  Lunenburg,  and  Leon^inster,  with  occasional  views  of  Wachusett 
to  the  1.  as  the  train  approaches  Fitchburg.  Fitchburg  (American  Hotel; 
Central  House)  is  a small  city  (incorporated  1872)  of  about  12,000  inhabi- 
tants. It  was  known  in  the  colonial  days  as  Turkey  Hills,  from  the  great 
• number  of  wild  turkeys  found  here.  It  is  a busy,  plain,  wide-awake  place, 
which  has  quadrupled  its  population  within  28  years  by  its  encourage-  , 
ment  of  manufactures  and  by  its  being- a centre  of  railroads.  The  city  is  ■ 
built  along  the  banks  of  a stream  which  affords  a fine  water-power.  Many  * 
small  factories  are  ranged  along  this  stream,  which  is  the  life  of  Fitchburg.  I 
1,000  men  are  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  machinery  and  agricultural 
tools ; 500  men  are  in  the  chair-making  business  ; 10  paper-mills,  with  200 
hands,  turn  out  $ 1,000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly ; while  two  or  three 
cotton-mills  are  well  worked  and  busy. 

The  views  from  Rollstone  Hill  (the  seat  of  large  quarries)  and  Pearl  Hill 
are  of  interest.  In  memory  of  her  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Secession  War, 
the  city  has  erected  a fine  monument  from  designs  by  Milmore.  It  repre- 
sents the  Goddess  of  Liberty,  a soldier,  and  a sailor,  all  of  heroic  size,  and 
cast  in  bronze  at  Chicopee,  in  this  State.  These  statues  stand  on  a high, 
inscribed  pedestal.  r 

In  1793,  Fitchburg  maintained  a semi-weekly  stage  to  Boston.  At  present  it 
has  7 trains  a day  running  over  50  M.  of  track  to  Boston,  by  the  Fitchburg  Rail- 
road, and  4 trains  daily  to  Boston  by  way  of  S.  Framingham  (58  M.).  The  Cheshire 
R.  R.  runs  hence  N.  W.  to  Keene  and  Bellows  Falls  (see  Route  26) ; the  Vt.  and 
Mass,  runs  W.  to  Hoosac  Tunnel ; and  the  Worcester  and  Fitchburg  R.  R.  runs  S.  | 
to  Worcester. 


% BOSTON  TO  THE  HOOSAC  TUNNEL.  Route  25.  177 


After  leaving  Fitchburg,  the  Yt.  and  Mass,  track  is  entered  upon. 
Stations,  W.  Fitchburg  and  Wachusett,  from  which  a line  of  stages  runs 
from  the  trains  S.  to  Princeton  and  Wachusett  Mountain.  ( Prospect 
House , Wachusett  House , Mountain  House).  The  mountain  is  easily  as- 
cended from  the  lofty  village,  and  presents  a remarkable  view  from  the 
ocean  to  the  farthest  Hoosac  Mts.,  and  from  Monadnock  in  the  N.  over 
the  extensive  lines  of  the  lower  Green  Mts.  Princeton  is  a favorite 
summer-resort  on  account  of  its  high  location,  its  pure,  cool  air,  and 
its  quiet  ruralness. 

Station,  Westminster  (Westminster  Hotel),  a town  granted  to  the 
veterans  of  the  Narragansett  War,  and  settled  as  Narragansett  No.  2. 
The  village  is  3 M.  from  the  station  on  the  highlands  which  form  the 
watershed  between  the  Connecticut  and  Merrimack  Rivers.  Station,  Ash- 
burnham , which  in  the  colonial  time  was  called  Dorchester  Canada,  hav- 
ing been  granted  to  men  of  the  former  place  (in  1690)  for  campaigning 
against  the  latter.  This  is  also  a hill  town  on  the  watershed  highlands. 
Station,  Gardner  (named  for  an  officer  who  fell  at  Bunker  Hill),  near  a 
village  which  is  extensively  engaged  in  chair-making.  The  line  now 
enters  Miller’s  River  valley,  and  stops  at  Templeton  (Grove  Hotel)  in  a 
town  granted  to  the  old  veterans  as  Narragansett  No.  6.  The  soil  of 
Templeton  is  fertile,  and  it  abounds  in  manufactories.  Occasional  fine 
views  are  gained  from  the  elevated  line  of  the  track,  especially  of  Monad- 
nock and  other  mountains  in  the  N.  The  road  passes  through  the  quiet 
hill- towns  of  Royalston,  Athol , Orange,  Wendell,  and  Erring,  to  Grout's 
Corner,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  New  London  Northern  Railroad  (Route 
12).  At  Grout’s  Corner  the  line  leaves  the  valley  of  Miller’s  River  and 
crosses  the  town  of  Montague  to  the  Connecticut.  This  broad  and  beau- 
tiful river  is  crossed  on  an  open  bridge  (a  rare  thing  on  the  New  England 
railroads),  from  which  fine  views  are  afforded  on  both  sides.  After  pass- 
ing over  a narrow  intervale,  the  road  crosses  the  Deerfield  River  not  far 
from  its  junction  with  the  Connecticut,  and  follows  its  valley  up  to 
Greenfield. 

Greenfield  ( Mansion  House,  American  House)  is  a beautiful  village 
situated  on  broad  intervales  near  Green  River,  and  not  far  from  the  union 
of  the  Deerfield  and  Connecticut  Rivers.  It  bears  a pleasing  air  of  rural 
simplicity,  and  is  a favorite  summer-resort  on  account  of  its  attractive 
environs.  Fronting  the  public  Square  is  a handsome  sandstone  church, 
the  Town  Hall,  Post  Office,  and  Court  House.  The  soldiers’  monument 
occupies  the  centre  of  the  Square. 

The  Russell  Manufacturing  Co.  has  its  works  near  this  village.  Here  5 - 600 
men  are  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  table-cutlery,  which  is  superior  to  that 
of  Sheffield.  The  works  turn  out  annually  about  300,000  dozen  table-knives,  and 
100,000  dozen  of  miscellaneous  cutlery,  using  up  500  tons  of  steel ; 150  tons  of 
cocoa  and  granadilla  wood  ; 30  tons  of  rosewood ; 50  tons  of  ebony  (from  Mada- 
8*  L 


178  Route  25.  BOSTON  TO  THE  HOOSAC  TUNNEL. 


gascar)  ; 20  tons  of  elephant’s  tusks  ; 25  tons  of  emery  (from  Smyrna) ; 200  tons 
of  grindstones  (Nova  Scotia)  ; 15  tons  of  brass  wire  ; 2,000  tons  of  coal ; 25,000 
bushels  of  charcoal : and  tons  of  wax.  The  admirable  and  ingenious  mechan- 
ism used  in  these  works  is  worthy  of  note.  There  are  also  manufactures  of 
woollen  goods,  carpenters’  tools,  &c.,  in  the  town. 

The  Bear's  Ben  is  a dark  ravine  with  a small  cave,  a short  distance  S. 
E.  of  the  village,  and  at  the  S.  end  of  Rocky  Mt.  The  Poet's  Seat  is  on 
Rocky  Mt.,  and  commands  a pleasing  view,  embracing  the  villages  of 
Greenfield  and  Deerfield,  the  fair  intervales  of  the  two  rivers,  and  a great 
circle  of  hills  surrounding  all.  Arthur's  Seat  is  a lofty  hill  S.  W.  of  the 
village,  commanding  a view  of  the  villages  and  rich  intervales  of  Deerfield 
and  Greenfield. 

Deerfield  (see  Route  24  is  about  5 M.  S.  of  Greenfield.  The  Coleraine 
and  Shelburne  Gorges  are  much  visited,  and  in  Leyden  there  is  a re- 
markable water- worn  cut  in  the  slate-rock,  10 -15  ft.  wide,  and  30-50 
ft.  deep,  known  as  the  Leyden  Gorge.  Pretty  cascades  are  found  near 
this  place,  and  formidable  hills  tower  over  it.  The  Coleraine  Gorge  is  a 
deep  and  romantic  defile  cut  by  the  waters  of  the  North  River.  The 
Stillwater  Road,  to  the  S.  W.,  over  the  level  meadows  of  the  Deerfield 
River,  and  through  the  ancient  village  of  Deerfield,  is  a popular  and 
pleasant  drive. 

4-5  M.  N.  E.  of  Greenfield  are  Turner's  Falls.  At  daybreak,  on  a May  morning 
of  1676,  Capt.  Turner  and  180  colonial  soldiers,  after  a long  forced  march  by 
night,  attacked  a powerful  force  of  King  Philip’s  insurgent  Indians,  who  were 
encamping  here  and  rioting  on  the  spoils  of  the  captured  English  towns.  Turner 
surprised  the  enemy  sleeping  in  their  wigwams,  and  in  the  ensuing  panic  140  of 
them  sprang  into  their  canoes,  and  were  carried  over  the  Falls  and  lost.  100 
were  shot  or  cut  to  pieces  on  the  shore,  and  then  Turner,  having  lost  but  one 
man,  marched  off.  But  the  dispersed  Indians  rallied  in  swarms  and  hung  on  the 
line  of  retreat,  and  a rumor  spread  through  the  ranks  of  the  colonials  that  King 
Philip  and  1,000  men  had  reinforced  the  enemy.  The  command  now  broke  up  in 
panic,  and  Capt.  Turner  and  38  men  were  killed,  besides  many  wounded  and 
stragglers  who  were  cut  off.  The  Rev.  Hope  Atherton,  who  was  present  in  full 
canonicals,  was  made  prisoner,  but  the  Indians  were  struck  with  such  awe  at  his 
presence  that  they  speedily  let  him  go.  Capt.  Holyoke  led  the  remnant  of  the 
force  back  to  Hatfield.  After  this  blow,  says  the  old  historian,  “the  enemy  went 
down  the  wind  apace.”  Many  years  later  the  town  of  Bernardston  was  granted 
to  the  veterans  of  the  “ Falls  Fight.” 

In  1792,  a dam  and  canal  (3M.  long)  were  built  here,  to  aid  in  the  navigation  of 
the  river.  In  1866,  the  Turner’s  Falls  Co.  bought  700  acres  near  the  Falls,  laid 
out  a city,  and  built  a curved  dam  1,000  ft.  long.  The  fall  is  36  ft.,  and  a water- 
power equal  to  10,000  horse-power  has  been  developed  by  two  canals.  Several 
manufactories  have  already  been  started  here,  and  prophecies  are  heard  of  a sec- 
ond Lowell.  “ During  high  water  the  roar  of  Turner’s  Falls  is  heard  from  six  to 
ten  miles.”  Dr.  Hitchcock  calls  this  Fall  a miniature  Niagara.  “ They  are  by 
far  the  most  interesting  waterfalls  in  this  State,  and  I think  I may  safely  say  in 
New  England.” 

After  leaving  Greenfield  the  railroad  closely  follows  the  Deerfield  River, 
running  far  S.  to  flank  Arthur’s  Seat,  which  looms  up  on  the  r.  The  Deer- 
field Gorge  is  soon  entered.  “ As  to  the  defile  through  which  Deerfield 
River  runs  between  Shelburne  and  Conway,  it  is  so  narrow  that  it  is  difficult 
even  on  foot,  to  find  a passage,  though  full  of  romantic  and  sublime  objects 


BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON.  Route  26.  179 

to  the  man  who  has  the  strength  and  courage  to  pass  through  it.  (Dr. 
Hitchcock).  The  track  lies  through  this  defile,  and  reveals  its  beauties. 

Station,  Shelburne  Falls  (Woodward’s  Hotel).  “Here  the  river,  in  a 
distance  of  a few  hundred  yards,  makes  a descent  of  about  150  ft.  over  a 
prodigious  bed  of  rock.  The  river  roars  through  a channel  which  it  has 
worn  In  the  stone,  leaping  in  two  or  three  distinct  falls,  and  rushes  down- 
ward, as  from  flight  to  flight  of  a broken  and  irregular  staircase  ; the 
rocks  seem  to  have  been  hewn  away,  as  when  mortals  make  a road.” 
(Hawthorne).  A large  cutlery  manufactory  is  located  here,  and  the  fa- 
mous Yale  locks  are  made  here.  There  are  limestone  caverns  in  the  town. 
Leaving  Bald  Mt.  on  the  r.,  the  line  soon  crosses  the  river.  Station, 
Buckland,  in  the  town  which  gave  birth  (1797)  to  Mary  Lyon,  the  edu- 
cationist, and  founder  of  Mt.  Holyoke  Seminary.  The  train  now  passes 
out  from  the  defile,  and  runs  across  the  long  town  of  Charlemont  (14  M.). 
Centre  Charlemont  (Dalrymple’s  Tavern)  is  under  the  shadow  of  Bald  Mt. 
(not  the  same  one  as  at  Shelburne  Falls  ; there  are  many  scores  of  Bald 
Mts.,  so  called,  in  New  England).  Charlemont  was  a strongly  fortified 
frontier-town  during  the  first  half  of  the  18th  century.  The  line  now 
passes  Mt.  Peak  on  the  1.,  crosses  the  river  four  times,  and  stops  at  Zoar, 
N.  of  which  is  the  town  of  Rowe,  with  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Pelham 
(1744).  After  passing  through  some  romantic  glens,  the  line  stops,  at 
present,  at  Hoosac  Tunnel.  Large  stages  are  in  waiting,  which  carry 
passengers  over  the  Hoosac  Mt.  to  N.  Adams. 

N.  Adams  to  Troy,  see  Route  23.  Troy  to  Saratoga,  by  Rensselaer  and 
Saratoga  R.  R.,  see  Route  53. 

26.  Boston  to  Burlington  and  Montreal. 

The  train  leaves  the  Fitchburg  R.  R.  terminal  station,  on  Causeway 
Street,  Boston,  (PL  1).  Boston  to  Fitchburg,  see  Route  25.  The  train 
passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Cheshire  R.  R.  at  Fitchburg,  and  then  runs 
by  the  stations  of  W.  Fitchburg,  Westminster,  S.  and  AT.  Ashburnham, 
and  Winchendon.  The  latter  is  a manufacturing  town  on  Miller’s  River 
(American  House). 

Fitchburg  to  Peterboro. 

From  Winchendon  the  Monadnock  R.  R.  runs  N.  17  M.  to  Peterboro, 
N.  H.,  passing  across  the  lake-studded  town  of  Rindge , the  birthplace 
of  Edward  Payson,  D.  D.,  and  Marshall  P.  Wilder.  Station,  Jaffrey,  in 
' the  town  of  the  same  name,  which  has  an  ancient  church  (now  secular- 
ized) whose  frame  was  raised  on  the  day  of  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill 
(1775).  The  workmen  claimed  to  have  heard  the  cannonading.  In  the 
N.  W.  part  of  Jaffrey  is  Monadnock  Mountain,  with  its  smooth,  round 
top  rising  3,450  ft.  above  the  sea.  An  extensive  view  is  enjoyed  from  the 


180  Route  26.  BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON. 


summit,  embracing  many  famous  mts.  on  the  N.  and  W.,  and  the  lake- 
strewn  towns  of  Cheshire  and  Hillsborough  Counties.  No  less  than  30 
lakes  are  visible,  together  with  numerous  villages,  and  it  is  said  that 
Bunker  Hill  Monument  may  be  seen  on  a clear  day.  A good  summer 
hotel  has  been  erected  on  the  slope  of  the  mt. , and  is  much  frequented  by 
lovers  of  picturesque  scenery.  On  the  pretty  Contoocook  Lake  a small 
steamer  has  been  placed,  and  makes  pleasant  trips  in  summer.  The  lake 
is  1J  M.  long,  and  has  one  island  of  10  acres.  About  1J  M.  S.  E.  from 
Monadnock  is  a mineral  spring  containing  carbonate  of  iron  and  sulphate 
of  soda. 

Station,  Peterboro  (two  inns),  a pretty  village  with  some  few  manufac- 
tures. Stages  run  from  this  point  to  Dublin,  Keene,  Wilton,  Mason,  and 
Harrisville. 

The  train  on  the  main  line,  after  leaving  Winchendon,  passes  State 
Line,  and  enters  New  Hampshire,  stopping  at  Fitzwilliam  (Monadnock 
Mt.  House;  Cheshire  House;  and  others),  a picturesque  hill-town  with 
many  ponds.  This  town  was  named  in  1773  for  the  Earl  of  Fitz william, 
and  its  present  industry  is  mainly  centred  on  quarrying  granite.  Sta  tion  s 
Troy  (Monadnock  House),  a thinly  settled  upland  town,  with  a stage-line 
in  summer  to  Monadnock  Mt. ; Marlboro  (Marlboro  House),  a rugged 
and  unproductive  town  ; and  Keene  ( Cheshire  House  ; American  House  ; 
Eagle  House).  Keene,  the  shire-town  of  Cheshire  Co.,  is  a beautiful  vil- 
lage on  a meadow  near  the  Ashuelot  River.  It  has  broad  and  pleasant 
streets  abounding  in  trees,  and  has  numerous  stores  on  Central  Square, 
its  large  trade  with  the  surrounding  country  being  a constant  source  of 
wealth.  There  are  here  3 banks,  7 churches,  a high  school,  some  man- 
ufactures, and  the  county  buildings  of  Cheshire. 

The  town  has  6,000  inhabitants.  Near  S.  Keene  the  R.  R.  passes  over 
a fine  granite  viaduct  75  ft.  wide  and  45  ft.  high.  The  Beaver  Brook 
Falls  are  about  2 M.  N.  of  the  village,  and  are  much  visited.  The  brook 
falls  over  a stair-like  succession  of  ledges  40  ft.  into  a deep  basin  which  is 
a haunt  of  large  trout. 

“Keene  is  a proud  little  spot,”  which  was  settled  under  the  name  of  Upper 
Ashuelot  (“collection  of  many  waters”),  about  1735.  In  1746  its  fort  was  at- 
tacked by  a large  Indian  force,  and  the  villagers  who  were  outside  were  cut  off  by 
the  enemy.  A reinforcement  from  Swanzey  drove  off  the  assailants.  In  1753  the 
town  was  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Benjamin  Keene,  a friend  of  Governor  Went- 
worth, and  at  that  time  British  minister  to  Spain.  It  was  among  the  first  to  re- 
sist the  British  aggressions  on  the  liberties  of  New  England. 

Stages  run  to  Chesterfield,  which  has  a lovely  lake  8 M.  in  circumference  ; to 
Surry  and  Gilsuvi;  to  Sullivan  and  Marlow  ; to  Stoddard,  Roxbury,  and  Nelson. 

The  Ashuelot  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  to  S.  Vernon.  (See  Route  12.) 

Beyond  Keene  the  main  line  passes  the  stations  E.  Westmoreland,  West- 
moreland, and  Walpole  (Wentworth  House). 

Walpole  was  settled  in  1749-52  by  John  Kilburn  and  Col.  Bellows.  A strong 
fort  was  erected  near  Cold  River,  and  in  1755  the  garrison  of  Kilburn  was  attacked 


BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON. 


Route  26.  181 


by  400  Frenchmen  and  Indians.  From  noon  till  sunset  the  battle  was  carried  on, 
the  little  handful  of  heroes  within  keeping  up  an  incessant  fire.  The  women 
loaded  the  guns,  and  run  the  bullets,  and  when  ammunition  began  to  fail,  picked 
up  the  Indian  shot  which  had  entered  the  house  and  melted  them  over  for  their 
husbands’  guns.  Several  attacks  on  the  heavy  outer  doors  were  met  by  deadly 
volleys,  and  the  enemy  finally  grew  discouraged  and  retired  to  the  N.  It  is 
thought  that  the  valley  towns  were  saved  by  this  brave  defence. 

Henry  W.  Bellows;  D.  D.,  the  great-grandson  of  Col.  Bellows,  was  bom  at 
Walpole  in  1814.  He  has  been  pastor  of  All  Souls’  Church  (New  York)  for  35 
years,  and  is  one  of  the  foremost  divines  of  the  Unitarian  Church.  He  is  an 
eloquent  and  powerful  orator,  and  is  a leader  in  social  reforms  and  philanthropic 
movements. 

Walpole  is  a pleasant  village  near  the  foot  of  Mt.  Kilbum,  and  on  the 
verge  of  broad  intervales.  It  has  wide  streets  lined  with  trees,  a neat 
Common,  and  several  boarding-houses  for  summer  guests,  with  whom  this 
is  a favorite  resort.  Ravine  Falls,  Blanchard  Falls,  and  the  Abenaquis 
Spring  are  near  the  village,  while  Derry  Hill  commands  an  extensive 
view,  including  the  Green  Mts.,  Ascutney,  Greylock,  Monadnock,  and  the 
valley  of  the  Connecticut. 

The  line  now  crosses  the  river,  and  stops  at  Bellows  Falls  (see  page  164), 
where  Route  29  crosses  the  present  route.  (Restaurant  in  the  station. ) 
Beyond  Bellows  Falls  the  line  runs  along  Williams  River  valley,  and  soon 
begins  the  ascent  of  the  E.  slope  of  the  Green  Mts.  Stations,  Rocking- 
ham, Bartonsville,  Chester  (Chester  House).  From  the  latter  station 
stages  run  to  Windham,  10  M.  S.  W. ; Londonderry  (Green  Mt.  House), 
15  M.  S.  W.  ; Weston,  12  M.  W.  ; and  Andover,  6 M.  W. 

Station,  Gassetts,  from  which  stages  run  to  Baltimore  (3  M. ) and  to 
Springfield  (7  M. ),  a village  at  Black  River  Falls.  Stations,  Cavendish, 
and  Proctorsville  (Eagle  Hotel),  a neat  village  with  two  churches  and  a 
bank.  There  are  fine  cascades  on  Black  River,  in  this  vicinity,  and  1 M. 
N.  of  the  village  is  a valuable  quarry  of  serpentine  marble  which  is  equal 
to  the  best  African  stone,  and  is  largely  used  for  decorative  purposes 
in  Boston  and  New  York. 

Station,  Ludlow  (Ludlow  House),  where  the  line  passes  over  the  Hog- 
back, which  is  thought  to  have  been  an  island  in  some  primeval  lake,  long 
since  drained  by  the  break-down  of  the  eastern  serpentine  ridge.  Daily 
stage  to  Plymouth.  The  train  now  ascends  heavy  grades  by  Healdville 
to  Summit , the  highest  point  on  the  line,  beyond  which  the  train  starts  on 
a down  grade  which  includes  1,000  ft.  of  descent  in  18  M.  Stations,  Mt. 
Holly,  E.  Wallingford,  and  Cuttingsville  (small  inn),  which  is  near 
Shrewsbury  Peak,  a commanding  mt.  4,086  ft.  high.  Stations,  Claren- 
don, N.  Clarendon,  and  Rutland  (*  Bates  House,  $2.50-3.00  ; Bardwell 
House  ; Stevens  House).  Rutland  is  a well-situated  and  prosperous  town 
of  10,000  inhabitants,  having  a large  country  trade  and  being  widely 
known  for  its  marble-works.  There  are  some  fine  commercial  buildings, 
others  pertaining  to  the  town,  and  several  notable  churches.  St.  Peter’s 


182  Route  26. 


BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON. 


Catholic  Church  is  a fine  new  building  of  stone,  in  the  English  Gothic 
style,  while  the  Episcopal  Church  is  a solid  and  massive  stone  structure. 
Near  the  twin  spires  which  are  seen  on  the  hill  is  the  handsome  Court 
House  of  Rutland  County,  opposite  which  is  a neat  Government  build- 
ing. The  town  has  a daily  and  2 weekly  papers,  7 churches,  3 banks, 
and  numerous  manufactories,  prominent  among  which  are  the  marble- 
works.  The  principal  quarries  and  sawing-mills  are  at  W.  Rutland , 
whence  immense  quantities  of  white  marble  are  shipped  to  all  parts  of 
America  and  Europe.  It  sells  at  the  quarries  for  a higher  price  than  does 
Italian  marble  delivered  in  New  York.  Large  gangs  of  saws  (without 
teeth,  and  cutting  by  means  of  sand  poured  in  from  above)  are  constantly 
running,  to  separate  the  marble  into  slabs. 

Rutland  was  settled  about  1770,  and  fortified  in  1775  as  a station  on  the  great 
northern  military  road.  In  1777,  St.  Clair’s  routed  army  retreated  through  the 
town. 

Numerous  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  from  Rutland.  Claren-  : 
don  Springs  are  about  6 M.  distant  (stages  connect  with  trains  at  W.  : 
Rutland  station).  These  springs  are  of  great  efficacy,  “ containing  in  one 
gallon,  or  235  inches,  46  cubic  inches  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  9.63  cubic 
inches  of  nitrogen  gas,  3 grains  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  traces  of  other 
alkalies.  ” In  a sequestered  location  near  the  springs  is  a large  hotel,  which  | 
has  been  a favorite  resort  for  many  years  (250  guests ; $ 2. 50  a day,  j 
$10-15.00  a week).  The  drives  in  this  vicinity  are  very  pleasant,  and  ; 
Clarendon  Cave  is  often  visited  from  the  hotel. 

Killington  Peak  is  7 M.  E.  of  Rutland  (9  M.  to  the  summit).  The  < 
road  to  its  foot  passes  over  the  high,  cold,  and  sterile  town  of  Mendon, 
with  the  lofty  and  symmetrical  peak  towering  in  advance.  The  ascent  of  \ 
Killington  is  very  arduous,  but  not  dangerous,  and  a broad  and  noble  view 
is  revealed  from  its  summit,  which  is  3,924  ft.  above  the  sea.  Pico  and 
Shrewsbury  are  other  prominent  peaks  in  this  vicinity,  whose  tops  are 
rarely  visited.  Excursions  are  also  made  to  Sutherland  Falls,  6 M.  N. , 
one  of  the  prettiest  waterfalls  in  Vermont.  Near  the  Falls  are  large 
marble-quarries  from  one  of  which  a statuary  marble  is  obtained  which  is 
said  to  be  as  fine  as  that  of  Paros  or  Carrara.  There  is  a railroad  station 
close  to  the  Falls. 

After  leaving  Rutland,  the  main  line  runs  N.  by  Sutherland  Falls  to 
Pitts/or d.  The  village  (Otter  Creek  House)  is  prettily  situated,  § M.  E. 
of  the  station,  near  fertile  intervales  on  Otter  Creek.  There  are  marble 
quarries  in  the  vicinity.  Station,  Brandon  ( Brandon  House,  Douglass 
House),  a prosperous  manufacturing  village  on  the  Neshobe  River,  with 
3,571  inhabitants,  5 churches,  and  2 banks.  In  this  and  the  village  of 
Forestdale  are  4 mineral  paint  companies,  producing  large  quantities  of  i 
paint  from  kaolin,  which  is  mined  in  the  vicinity.  There  are  also  marble  j 


BOSTON  TO  BURLINGTON. 


Route  26.  183 


quarries,  producing  common  and  fine  statuary  marble  and  lime.  Vast 
quantities  ofvbog  iron  ore  are  found,  which  is  easily  melted,  and  yields  45 
per  cent  of  soft  gray  iron,  adapted  for  cannon,  car- wheels,  and  other  cast- 
ings requiring  great  strength.  200  tons  of  manganese  are  sent  hence  to 
market,  principally  to  Europe.  In  view  of  this  mineral  wealth,  and  also 
of  the  rich  crops  on  the  intervales  and  the  abundant  timber  on  the  hills. 
Sir  Charles  Lyell  said  of  Brandon,  “ I have  yet  to  see,  either  in  Europe 
or  America,  a spot  containing  such  a variety  of  unique  and  valuable  sub- 
stances placed  by  nature  in  juxtaposition.”  At  Brandon  the  Howe  scales 
are  made.  Two  curious  caves  are  in  the  limestone  ledges  1J  M.  E.  of  the 
village. 

Stephen  A.  Douglas  was  born  at  Brandon,  April  23,  1813.  He  became  a lawyer 
in  the  State  of  Illinois,  and  arose  rapidly  to  high  honors.  He  was  a Congressman, 
1843-7,  and  from  1847  until  his  death  in  1861  he  was  a U.  S.  Senator.  He  was 
candidate  of  the  Democratic  party  for  the  Presidency  in  1860,  and  was  defeated, 
though  receiving  a large  popular  vote.  He  was  the  author  of  the  “ Popular 
Sovereignty  ” doctrine  (that  the  people  of  the  Territories  should  decide  as  to  the 
admission  of  negro  slavery,  without  the  interference  of  Congress).  He  favored 
the  peaceable  annexation  of  Texas  and  Cuba,  was  actively  conservative  in  the 
slavery  question,  and  supported  the  Government  against  the  rebellion  of  the 
Southern  States. 

Stages  run  from  Brandon  to  Sudbury,  8 M.  W. , and  to  Lake  Dunmore,  9 M.  N. 

From  Leicester  Junction  a branch  railroad  runs  W.  across  the  farming  towns  of 
Whiting,  Shoreham,  and  Orwell  to  Ticonderoga  (17  M),  Crown  Point,  and 
Port  Henry  (see  Route  53).  This  road  crosses  Lake  Champlain  on  a long  bridge 
near  Fort  Ticonderoga. 

Station,  Salisbury , 3 - 4 M.  W.  of  which  is  the  beautiful  Lake  Dun- 
more,  which  is  about  5 M.  long  and  is  environed  by  hills.  Its  clear  waters 
are  60  ft.  deep,  and  abound  in  fish.  Moosalamoo  Peak  towers  on  its 
shore  to  a height  of  nearly  2,000  ft.  and  overlooks  the  lake  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  while  there  are  rich  lake- views  from  Rattlesnake  Point. 
Warner's  Cave  (on  Moosalamoo)  and  the  Lana  Cascade , E.  of  the  lake, 
are  often  visited.  Lord  Dunmore  visited  this  lake  (about  the  year  1770) 
and,  wading  into  its  crystal  waters,  poured  a libation  of  wine  into  it,  saying, 
“ Ever  after,  this  body  of  water  shall  be  called  Lake  Dunmore,  in  honor 
of  the  Earl  of  Dunmore.”  The  scenes  of  the  romance,  “ The  Green 
Mountain  Boys,”  are  laid  in  this  vicinity.  On  the  W.  shore  is  the  * Lake 
Dunmore  House,  which,  with  its  cottages,  can  accommodate  200  guests. 

Middlebury  (Addison  House,  80  guests,  $10.00-12.00  a week)  is  a 
1 handsome  village,  situated  near  a considerable  fall  in  Otter  Creek.  It 
has  some  manufactures,  but  its  principal  product  is  marble,  of  fine  quality. 
The  Portland  (Me.)  Post  Office  is  built  of  this  marble.  Besides  4 churches 
and  a bank,  the  village  contains  the  Addison  County  Court  House,  and  is 
the  seat  of  Middlebury  College.  This  institution  was  incorporated  in 
1800,  and  had,  in  1871,  7 instructors,  65  students,  and  a library  of  11,000 
volumes.  It  has  three  large  stone  buildings  on  an  eminence  near  the 
village,  and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Congregational  Church.  The  favorite 


184  Route  %7.  RUTLAND  TO  BENNINGTON. 


drives  from  Middlebury  are  to  Beldeii’s  Falls  (2  M.),  Lake  Dunmore 
(8  M.),  and  Elgin  Springs  (sulphur),  16  M. 

Stages  run  to  Cornwall  (4  M.),  Bridport  (8  M.),  and  Weybridge  (4  M.)  ; also  to 
Bipton  (Bread  Loaf  Inn),  8^  M.  E.,  which  is  under  the  Green  Mts.,  and  has  a few 
summer  visitors. 

Stations,  Brookville  and  New  Haven  (New  Haven  Hotel),  near  New 
Haven  River  and  large  marble  quarries.  Stages  run  to  Bristol  (good  inn), 
5 M.  E.,  a pretty  little  hamlet  on  a high  plateau,  from  which  the  Adiron- 
dacks  and  Green  Mts.  are  seen.  Stages  also  to  Lincoln,  among  the  mts. 

Station,  Vergennes  ( Stevens  House  ; Franklin  House ) the  smallest  city 
in  the  Union  (1,570  inhabitants).  The  site  was  chosen  by  Ethan  Allen, 
and  is  on  a hill  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  Otter  Creek,  8 M.  from  the 
lake.  It  received  its  city  charter  in  1788,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the 
Count  de  Vergennes,  French  minister  of  foreign  affairs,  1774- 83.  Otter 
Creek  has  deep  water,  and  is  navigable  for  300  ton  vessels  to  the  Falls  at 
Vergennes,  which  have  a descent  of  37  ft.,  and  are  improved  for  water- 
power. The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  rich  and  productive,  and  commands 
views  of  the  great  mountain-chains  on  the  E.  and  W.,  “ a scene  of  grand- 
eur and  sublimity  rarely  paralleled  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.”  The 
Champlain  Arsenal  is  located  here,  and  covers  28  acres  of  ground.  It  is 
well  stored  with  ordnance  and  munitions  of  war  belonging  to  the  United 
States,  as  well  as  the  military  supplies  of  the  State  of  Vermont.  Com- 
modore MacDonough’s  fleet,  which  won  the  naval  victory  off  Plattsburg, 
was  fitted  out  at  Vergennes  in  1814. 

Stages  run  to  Addison , 6 M.  S.,  a famous  old  border-town,  in  whose  S.  W. 
corner  is  Chimney  Point,  opposite  Crown  Point  (see  Route  53).  It  is  now  an 
agricultural  town,  widely  known  for  its  fine  horses.  The  road  to  Addison  passes 
through  Bridport,  a broad,  quiet  farming  town.  About  3 M.  S.  of  Vergennes  are 
fine  cascades  in  Otter  Creek,  near  which  is  the  Elgin  Spring  (small  hotel),  con- 
taining sulphates  of  magnesia,  iron,  and  soda,  and  carbonates  of  soda  and  lime. 
A few  miles  W.  of  Vergennes,  on  the  lake  shore,  is  the  Fort  Cassin  House. 

Beyond  Vergennes  the  line  passes  through  Ferrisburgh,  Charlotte , and 
Shelburne , to  Burlington.  These  are  quiet  farming  towns  with  frequent 
glimpses  of  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Adirondacks  on  the  W.,  and  the 
Green  Mts.  on  the  E.  Stages  run  from  N.  Ferrisburgh  to  Monkton,  which 
has  two  pretty  lakes. 

Burlington,  see  Route  53. 

27.  Rutland  to  Bennington. 

Via  the  Western  Vermont  or  Harlem  Extension  R.  R.  in  55  M. 

Three  trains  daily  leave  the  union  station  at  Rutland,  but  that  which  leaves  at 
about  9 A.  M.  is  recommended,  as  the  others  are  slow  and  carry  freight-cars, 
occupying  over  5 hours  in  going  55  M. 

Station,  Clarendon , which  is  separated  from  the  Clarendon  Springs  val- 
ley by  a mountain.  The  line  then  crosses  the  town  of  Wallingford  (2 


RUTLAND  TO  BENNINGTON.  Route  27.  185 


stations)  near  the  lofty  ridge  called  the  White  Rocks.  Station,  Mt.  Ta- 
bor and  Dauby , between  two  rugged  liill-towns,  so-named,  the  former  of 
which  has  less  than  300  inhabitants  on  23,376  acres  of  land,  much  of 
which  is  on  the  summits  of  the  Green  Mts. 

Stations,  N . Dorset  (Curtis  House)  and  E.  Dorset  (E.  Dorset  House). 
The  line  runs  through  a valley  between  the  Green  Mts.  on  the  E.  and  the 
marble  hills  of  the  Taconic  system  on  the  W.  Mt.  JEolus,  the  highest 
peak  of  the  latter  chain,  has  large  marble  quarries  on  its  E.  slope. 

Marble  was  first  quarried  here  in  1785,  and  now  there  are  62  gangs  of  saws  run- 
ning here  and  in  Manchester,  sawing  750,000  ft.  yearly.  Over  300  quarrymen  are 
employed,  and  the  Dorset  marble  is  sent  to  every  part'  of  the  U.  S.  and  Canada. 
One  quarry  produces  the  Italian  marble,  so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  that  of 
Carrara.  The  supply  is  inexhaustible,  and  the  stone  is  found  in  parallel  strata 
1-6  ft.  thick,  separated  by  thin  seams  of  other  rock.  Sometimes  20  of  these 
strata  are  found,  one  above  the  other.  On  the  S.  of  Mt.  iEolus  (formerly  called  Dor- 
set Mt.)  is  a remarkable  cave  containing  5 chambers  and  several  long  passages  in 
the  rock.  Its  innermost  room  is  50  ft.  high,  and  has  many  stalactites. 

The  line  now  follows  the  valley  of  the  Battenkill  to  Manchester 
(* Equinox  House , open  June  to  Dec.,  a large  and  first-class  hotel ; Elm 
House ; Vanderlip  House).  This  is  a quiet  and  beautiful  village  at  the 
base  of  Mount  Equinox,  and  is  much  visited  in  summer  on  account  of  its 
pure  air,  picturesque  environs,  and  fine  fishing.  The  village  sidewalks 
are  of  marble  from  the  inexhaustible  quarries  on  the  mts. , and  the  prin- 
cipal buildings  are  Burr  Seminary  and  the  Bennington  County  Court 
House.  Mt.  AEolus  is  5 M.  N.  and  Stratton  Mt.  lies  to  the  S.  E.,  near 
which  is  Stratton  Gap,  a romantic  pass  which  has  been  reproduced  in  one 
of  Durand’s  best  paintings.  A road  has  been  constructed  to  the  house  on 
the  summit  of  Mt.  Equinox,  which  is  3,706  ft.  above  the  sea.  From  this 
peak  a fine  * view  is  gained,  which  includes  Greylock,  chief  of  the  Berk- 
shire Hills,  on  the  S. , and  the  remote  Catskills  on  the  S.  W.  On  the  S. 
W.  is  Saratoga,  with  parts  of  the  Hudson  Valley  running  N.  to  Lakes 
George  and  Champlain,  long  reaches  of  which  are  visible.  Mt.  ^Eolus, 
Killington  and  Shrewsbury  Peaks  loom  up  in  the  N. ; Ascutney  is  in 
the  N.  W.,  and  far  beyond  Stratton  Mt.  (S.  of  E.)  is  the  dim  blue 
cone  of  Monadnock.  Skinner  Hollow  is  a deep  ampliitheatrical  gulf  on 
the  S.  of  Equinox  Mt.,  which  has  a cave  so  profound  that  snow  remains 
there  all  the  year.  There  are  also  marble  quarries  in  the  Hollow. 

The  first  meeting  of  the  Vermont  Council  of  Safety  took  place  at  Manchester, 
July  15,  1777,  and  ordered  the  assembly  of  the  militia  to  meet  Burgoyne,  who  was 
marching  on  Albany.  1,400  men  gathered  here  under  Stark  and  Warner,  and 
encamped  until  the  Hessians  advanced  on  Bennington,  when  they  marched  down 
and  beat  them.  (Among  the  best  New  England  historical  romances  are  “The 
Green  Mountain  Boys”  and  “The  Rangers,”  by  Hon.  D.  P.  Thompson.  Their 
scenes  are  laid  in  this  part  of  the  State  during  the  Revolutionary  era.) 

Stages  run  E.  to  the  mountain-towns  of  Peru  and  Winhall. 

Station,  Arlington  (two  inns),  a diversified  town  in  which  are  West  and 
Red  Mts.,  several  small  caves,  and  a blowing  spring.  The  State  seal  of 


186  Route  27.  RUTLAND  TO  BENNINGTON. 


Vermont  had  its  origin  here.  A young  English  lieutenant  was  courting 
an  Arlington  girl,  and  one  day,  while  there,  he  engraved  on  one  of  Gov. 
Chittenden’s  horn-cups  a picture  of  a cow  and  pine-tree  and  harvested 
grain,  being  a view  from  the  W.  window  of  the  Governor’s  house.  Ira 
Allen  saw  this  engraving,  and  adopted  the  device  for  the  seal  of  the 
State. 

7 M.  N.  of  Arlington  is  Sandgate  Notch,  a remarkable  passage  through  the  solid 
rock,  30  ft.  high,  800  ft.  long,  and  less  than  12  ft.  wide.  This  pass  is  used  by  a 
highway.  Stages  run  from  Arlington  to  Sandgate. 

Stations,  Shaftsbury,  S.  Shaftsbury  (stages  to  Glastenbury),  V.  Ben- 
nington, and  Bennington  (*  Mount  Anthony  House,  accommodating  200 
guests  ; Stark  House  ; Putnam  House).  Bennington  is  a pretty  village 
situated  800  ft.  above  the  sea  and  overlooking  the  surrounding  country. 
It  has  4 churches,  a seminary,  a bank,  and  two  weekly  papers,  while  the 
population  of  the  town  is  nearly  6,000.  1 M.  from  this  village  is  Old 

Bennington  Centre , of  Revolutionary  fame ; a quiet  hamlet  with  the 
county  buildings  on  its  main  street.  Here  stands  the  old  Catamount 
Tavern,  whose  sign  was  a stuffed  wild-cat  on  a pole,  grinning  fiercely  to- 
wards New  York.  The  State  Council  of  Safety  used  to  meet  here,  and 
make  plans  to  defend  the  State  against  the  claims  of  New  York  and  the 
armies  of  the  king.  Ethan  Allen’s  house  is  also  preserved,  and  stands 
next  to  the  Tavern. 

Mount  Anthony  is  2 M.  by  foot-path  from  Bennington  (4J  M.  byroad). 
From  the  tower  on  its  summit  a beautiful  view  is  afforded,  including  most 
of  S.  W.  Vermont,  Mt.  Equinox,  Mt.  ^Eolus,  the  broad  valley  of  the 
Walloomsack,  Greylock  in  Berkshire,  and  peaks  of  the  Catskills.  Pros- 
pect Mt.  and  the  pickerel  ponds  of  Woodford,  in  the  E.,  are  much  visited. 

Stages  run  on  tlie  great  southern  highway  across  the  State  to  Brattleboro. 

Bennington  was  settled  in  1761  by  Mass,  people,  and  was  named  in  honor  of 
Penning  Wentworth,  Governor  of  N.  H.  For  60  years  it  was  the  most  populous 
place  in  Vermont,  of  which  it  now  is  the  fourth  town.  Soon  after  its  settlement 
the  territory  now  occupied  by  Vermont  was  transferred,  by  royal  edict,  from  the 
jurisdiction  of  New  Hampshire  to  that  of  New  York.  The  titles  of  the  settlers 
to  their  lands  were  rendered  null  and  void,  and  it  became  evident  that  they  must 
either  repurchase,  abandon,  or  defend  them  against  New  York  and  the  king.  The 
sturdy  pioneers  determined  on  the  latter  course,  and  their  well-organized  resist- 
ance left  the  territory  in  a state  of  anarchy  until  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution. 
The  headquarters  of  the  anti-New-York  party  was  at  Bennington,  and  here,  in 
1777,  was  established  a depot  of  military  supplies.  Fort  Ticonderoga  was  taken 
by  an  expedition  from  this  place  (1775),  and  when  Burgoyne’s  royal  army  was 
marching  on  Albany,  he  sent  Col.  Baume  with  the  Brunswick  Dragoons  and  a 
motley  swarm  of  Canadians,  Tories,  and  Indians,  to  capture  Bennington.  This 
force  (about  600  men)  met  Lieut. -Col.  Gregg  and  200  Vermonters,  and  drove  them 
back  until  Gen.  Stark’s  brigade  moved  up  from  Bennington  (5  M.  distant).  Baume 
now  halted  and  threw  up  entrenchments  on  a commanding  hill,  and  Stark  en- 
camped near  by.  After  two  days’  skirmishing,  Stark  was  joined  by  a regiment 
from  Berkshire,  which,  with  the  3 N.  H.  regiments  and  Herrick’s  Rangers,  gave 
him  a force  of  1,800  men.  On  the  day  before  the  battle,  Parson  Allen,  of  Berk- 
shire, said  to  Stark,  “General,  the  people  have  been  too  often  called  out  to  no 
purpose.  If  you  don’t  give  them  a chance  to  fight  now,  they  ’ll  never  turn  out 
again.”  “You  would  n’t  turn  out  now  while  it’s  dark  and  rainy,  would  you  ? ” 


RUTLAND  TO  ALBANY. 


Route  28.  187 


said  Stark.  “Well,  no,  not  just  now,”  answered  the  Parson.  “ Well,”  answered 
Stark,  “if  the  Lord  should  once  more  give  us  sunshine,  if  I don’t  give  you  fight- 
ing enough,  I ’ll  never  ask  you  to  turn  out  again.”  On  the  morning  of  Aug.  16, 
1777,  the  American  militia  were  drawn  out,  and  three  detachments  were  sent  to 
attack  the  Hessian  right,  and  right  and  left  rear.  “See  there,  men!  there  are 
the  red-coats.  Before  night  they  are  ours,  or  Molly  Stark  will  be  a widow,” 
cried  Stark,  as  he  led  his  men  to  the  attack.  The  Indians  fled  between  the  con- 
verging columns,  and  the  Tories  soon  gave  -way,  but  the  German  soldiers  fought 
with  their  swords  when  their  ammunition  had  given  out,  and  only  surrendered 
when  enveloped  by  superior  numbers.  The  action  lasted  for  two  hours,  “ like  one 
continued  clap  of  thunder,”  and  scarcely  had  the  victors  begun  to  rest  when  Col. 
Breyman  came  near  the  field  with  a large  reinforcement  for  Baume.  Fortunately 
Warner’s  Vermont  regiment  had  just  arrived  on  the  field,  and  the  valiant  Warner 
(who  had  been  among  the  foremost  in  the  battle)  led  them  against  the  enemy. 
The  other  corps  were  soon  hurried  to  their  support,  and  Breyman  retreated  at 
sunset.  237  of  the  enemy  were  killed  and  wounded,  700  were  made  prisoners, 
and  4 cannon  were  taken.  The  Americans  lost  about  200  (or,  according  to  Stark’s 
report,  70  killed  and  wounded).  The  16th  of  August  has  been  observed  as  a holi- 
day at  Bennington  ever  since  the  battle. 

From  Bennington  to  New  York,  the  trains  run  infl-12  hours,  by  Lebanon 
Springs  (see  Route  23),  Chatham  Four  Corners,  Croton  Falls,  and  White  Plains. 
Trains  to  Albany  in  4£  - 6 hours. 


28.  Rutland  to  Albany. 

Via  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  R.  R.  in  101  M.  Fare,  $3.65. 

Stations,  Centre  Rutland  (near  which  the  river  is  crossed  at  Gookin’s 
Falls),  and  W.  Rutland , with  its  great  marble- works.  Stages  run  hence 
to  Clarendon  Springs  (see  page  182)  in  4 M.  ; fare,  75  c.  Station,  Castleton 
( Sanford  House),  a pretty  village  on  a plain  near  Castleton  River,  which 
has  a State  Normal  School  and  five  churches.  There  are  marble  and  slate 
quarries  in  this  vicinity,  also  works  for  preparing  marbleized  slate,  an  ex- 
cellent imitation  of  marble.  100  men  are  engaged  here  in  making  white 
soapstone  slate-pencils,  300,000,000  of  which  are  made  yearly.  At  W. 
Castleton,  1,000  billiard  beds  and  2,000  mantels  of  slate  are  made  yearly. 

Excursions  may  be  made  from  Castleton  to  Lake  Bomaseen , 4 M.  N. 
W.  This  Lake  is  8 M.  long  and  1-2J  M.  wide,  and  is  lined  on  its  W. 
shore  with  marble-mills  and  slate-quarries. 

7 M.  N.  of  Castleton  is  Hubbardton,  where,  near  the  Baptist  church,  is  an  obe- 
lisk near  a flagstaff,  which  marks  the  battle-field  of  July  7,  1777.  As  soon  as  the 
British  knew  that  St.  Clair  had  evacuated  Ticonderoga,  Gen.  Frazer  was  sent  in 
pursuit  of  him  with  a small  force  of  light  infantry.  The  American  rear-guard 
was  composed  of  3 thin  regiments,  one  of  which  retreated  as  soon  as  the  action 
commenced.  Frazer  attacked  the  regiments  of  Warner  and  Francis  with  700  men. 
The  numbers  were  about  equal,  and  the  fight  was  long  and  desperate.  At  last 
the  Baron  Riedesel  arrived  on  the  field  with  his  Brunswickers,  and  the  American 
lines  were  broken.  They  lost  324  men,  including  Col.  Francis,  who  fell  at  the 
head  of  his  regiment,  while  the  British  loss  was  183.  The  bones  of  the  slain 
bleached  on  the  battle-field  in  the  deserted  town  for  7 years,  when  they  were 
buried  near  the  site  of  the  monument. 

Rutland  and  Washington  Line. 

Poultney  (Poultney  House  ; Beaman's)  is  7 M.  S.  of  Castleton,  on  the 
Rutland  and  Washington  Railroad.  The  line  passes  through  a region 


188  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


abounding  in  slate-quarries,  the  chief  of  which  are  the  Eagle,  Copeland, 
and  Snowdon.  Poultney  is  a handsome  village,  where  Horace  Greeley- 
learned  the  printer’s  trade,  1826  - 30,  and  Jared  Sparks  mastered  the  car- 
penter’s trade.  At  one  end  of  the  village  is  the  large  building  formerly- 
occupied  as  the  Ripley  Female  College.  This  fine  old  building  is  situated 
in  pleasant  grounds,  and  is  now  used  as  a summer  boarding-house  (250 
guests,  $10-12.00  a week).  Among  the  principal  points  frequented  by 
visitors  are  the  Gorge,  the  Bowl,  Carter’s  Falls,  Lake  Bomaseen,  on  the 
N.,  and  Lake  St.  Catharine  (or  Austin)  on  the  S.  The  latter  is  about  6 
M.  from  Poultney,  and  is  over  5 M.  long.  Near  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  a 
promontory  on  which  stands  St.  Catharine’s  Hotel,  with  the  quiet  waters 
nearly  surrounding  it,  and  the  Haystack,  Moosehorn,  and  St.  Catharine 
Mts.  near  by. 

Middletown  Springs  are  8 M.  E.  of  Poultney  (stages  daily,  75  c.). 
These  springs  are  mainly  impregnated  with  iron,  and  have  become  a very 
popular  resort.  The  Montvert  Hotel  accommodates  300  guests;  $3.00  a 
day,  $ 15.00  a week.  The  Valley  House  is  a smaller  hotel  in  the  vicinity. 

Beyond  Poultney  the  Rutland  and  Washington  Division  runs  along  the  border  to 
Eagle  Bridge  and  Troy,  68  M.  from  Poultney,  stopping  at  the  Vermont  stations  of 
Pawlet  and  Rupert. 

Beyond  Castleton  the  next  main  line  station  is  at  Hydemlle  (Lake 
House),  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Bomaseen.  Station,  Fairhaven  (Vermont 
House),  with  a neat  oval  park,  from  which  the  streets  radiate.  Vast 
amounts  of  slate  for  roofing  and  other  purposes  are  quarried  in  this  town. 

Daily  stages  run  N.  to  the  farming  towns  of  Westhaven  and  Benson  (10 
M. ),  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain.  Beyond  Fairhaven  the  line  reaches 
Whitehall  ( N.  Y. ),  whence  the  Champlain  steamers  start  for  Ticonderoga, 
Burlington,  and  Rouse’s  Point.  For  a description  of  the  Lake,  and  of  the 
railroad  from  Albany  to  Whitehall,  see  Route  53. 


29.  Boston  to  Lowell,  Concord,  and  Montreal. 

Via  the  Boston  and  Lowell,  Northern,  and  Vermont  Central  Railroads.  Dis- 
tance, to  Lowell,  26  M.  ; to  Concord,  75  M.  ; to  Montreal,  334  M. 

(The  other  routes  to  Montreal  are  (1)  by  way  of  Fitchburg  and  Rutland,  344  M.  ; 
and  (2)  by  way  of  Portland  and  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  405  M.) 

By  the  Lowell  route,  Pullman  and  passenger  cars  run  through  to  Montreal, 
without  change,  in  14-16  hours.  Through  express  trains  usually  leave  the  Bos- 
ton and  Lowell  depot,  in  Boston,  at  8 o’clock,  A.  M.,  and  at  6 P.  M.,  arriving  in 
Montreal,  respectively,  at  about  10  o’clock  in  the  evening,  and  10  in  the  morning. 
The  line  passes  through  the  populous  cities  of  Lowell,  Nashua,  Manchester,  and 
Concord,  and  then  runs  N.  W.  through  the  pleasing  rural  scenery  of  New  Hamp- 
shire and  Vermont. 

The  train  leaves  the  superb  terminal  depot  of  the  Boston  and  Lowell 
R.  R.,  in  Boston,  and  crosses  Charles  River,  with  the  city  of  Charlestown 
resting  on  hills  to  the  r.  After  passing  seven  suburban  stations,  the  train 
reaches  West  Medford  (2  hotels),  on  the  Mystic  River,  the  seat  of  Tufts 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  29.  189 


College.  The  handsome  buildings  of  the  College  are  on  Walnut  Hill, 
some  distance  S. , and  near  the  College  Hill  station.  Tufts  College  is  a 
well-conducted  institution,  founded  in  1852,  and  having  (in  1871)  15 
instructors  and  62  students,  with  10,000  volumes  in  the  library.  It  is 
under  the  care  of  the  Universalist  Church,  and  its  president  is  Dr.  A.  A. 
Miner,  a leader  in  that  sect.  “ Meadford  ” was  settled  about  1633,  on  the 
Indian  lands  called  Missituck,  and  soon  won  a fame  for  its  shipbuilding 
which  it  still  .preserves. 

John  Brooks,  who  was  horn  here  in  1752,  fought  through  the  Revolution,  com- 
manding in  succession  the  19th,  8th,  and  7th  Mass,  regiments  of  the  Continental 
army.  He  was  Governor  of  Mass.  181G-23. 

Maria  G.  Brooks,  horn  here  in  1795,  was  called  by  Robert  Southey  “the  most 
impassioned  and  most  imaginative  of  all  poetesses.” 

The  line  passes  along  Mystic  Pond  and  stops  at  Winchester.  On  a hill 
near  this  pond,  lived  Nanepashemet,  “the  Moon-God,”  an  early  sachem 
of  the  Mass.  Indians.  He  was  killed  in  battle  about  1619,  and  buried  in 
his  fortress  here.  Station,  Winchester , whence  a branch  track  runs  to 
Woburn  (2  M.),  a large  village  engaged  in  manufacturing  (pianos,  tan- 
neries, &c.).  The  pretty  lakelet  called  Horn  Pond  is  close  to  the  village. 
Station,  E.  Woburn,  whence  a branch  track  runs  to  Stoneharri' , a busy 
shoemaking  town,  near  which  on  the  S.  is  the  romantic  Spot  Pond,  sur- 
rounded by  hills,  and  143  ft.  above  the  sea,  studded  with  islands,  and 
covering  283  acres.  It  was  found  and  named  by  Gov.  Winthrop,  in  1632, 
and  has  become  a favorite  resort  for  Bostonians. 

Stations,  N.  Woburn,  Wilmington,  Billerica.  The  latter  station  is  in 
an  extensive  farming  town.  Tewksbury,  2 M.  N.  of  the  station,  is  the 
seat  of  a large  institution  for  the  State’s  paupers.  Shortly  after  leaving 
N.  Billerica  the  line  crosses  the  Concord  River  and  enters  Lowell. 

Lowell. 

Hotels.  — There  is  need  of  a good  hotel  in  this  city.  The  American,  City,  and 
Lovejoys  are  the  principal  houses  now  in  the  city. 

Pawtucket  Falls  was  a favorite  fishing-place  of  the  Indians  until  their 
extinction,  and  was  often  visited  by  Eliot  and  Gookin.  In  1826  a town 
was  set  off  here,  and  named  Lowell,  in  honor  of  a Newburyport  gentle- 
man, who  introduced  the  cotton-manufacture  into  the  United  States. 
The  Pawtucket  Canal  extends  from  the  head  of  the  Falls  to  the  Concord 
River  below  the  city,  and  furnishes  an  immense  water-power,  having  a 
fall  of  33  ft.  To  obviate  the  trouble  caused  by  an  occasional  decrease  of 
water  in  the  Merrimac  River,  a large  canal  has  been  built  from  the  outlet 
of  Lake  Winnepesaukee  (commenced  in  1846).  The  Pawtucket  Canal 
was  cut  late  in  the  last  century,  for  purposes  of  navigation,  but  did  not 
pay,  and  was  bought  in  1821  by  Bostonians,  who  established  a factory 
here.  There  were  then  12  houses  here,  and  in  1828  the  population  had 


190  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


risen  to  3,532.  The  Merrimac  Mills  were  started  in  1823,  and  at  present 
their  enormous  works  turn  out  12,000  miles  of  cotton  cloth  yearly. 

Beginning  up-stream,  the  first  line  of  factories  belongs  to  the  Lawrence 
Mills  Co.,  while  on  the  canal,  parallel  with  Suffolk  St.,  are  the  Tremont 
and  Suffolk  Mills.  Below  the  Lawrence  Mills  are  the  immense  Merrimac 
Mills  and  Print  Works  (foot  of  Prince  St.),  which  are  succeeeded  along 
the  river-front  by  the  Boot  and  the  Massachusetts  Mills.  The  Middlesex, 
Prescott,  Appleton,  Hamilton,  and  Lowell  Carpet  Mills  are  on  the  canal, 
S.  of  Merrimac  St.,  and  are  best  seen  from  the  bridge  on  Gorham  St. 

In  1871,  there  were  at  Lowell  69  mills,  with  a capital  of  $ 14,000,000, 
employing  9,404  women  and  5,413  men,  and  running  570,586  spindles 
and  13,466  looms.  41,036  tons  of  coal,  18,200  bushels  of  charcoal,  and 
1,855  cords  of  wood  were  used  yearly  for  the  engines  (of  5,320  horse- 
power), and  105,776  gallons  of  oil,  1,000  tons  of  starch,  2,662  tons  of 
wool,  and  16,740  tons  of  cotton  were  consumed  yearly.  The  chief  annual 
products  were  2,530,000  yards  of  woollen  stuffs  ; 1,924,000  yards  of  carpet- 
ing; 130,000  shawls  ; 9,000,000  pairs  of  hose;  51,691,200  yards  of  cloth, 
dyed  and  printed  ; and  122,096,000  yards  of  cotton  fabrics.  In  addition  to 
the  steam  horse-power  (5,320),  there  is  about  10,000  horse-power  derived 
from  the  canals.  Besides  the  long  line  of  factories  on  the  canal,  another 
great  line  is  built  along  the  Concord  River,  which  here  joins  the  Merrimac. 

When  the  factory  system  was  first  inaugurated,  the  operatives  were 
mostly  Americans,  but  now  the  mills  are  worked  almost  entirely  by 
Irish,  Nova  Scotians,  and  French  Canadians.  So,  with  the  15,000  opera- 
tives, mostly  foreign,  Lowell  possesses  but  little  of  the  aspect  of  a New 
England  city.  The  French  have  a large  and  handsome  church  (Catholic), 
near  which  is  the  great  hospital  of  St.  John,  conducted  by  the  Sisters  of 
Charity.  The  city  has  42,000  inhabitants,  with  26  churches,  62  schools, 
about  6,000  dwelling-houses,  10  lodges  of  Masons,  and  4 of  Odd  Fellows. 

Merrimac  St.  is  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  contains  long 
lines  of  shops.  On  this  street  is  the  Post  Office,  City  Hall,  and  a vener- 
able-looking Episcopal  Church  and  rectory.  On  S.  Common  is  St.  John’s 
Church,  also  the  buildings  of  Middlesex  County  (which  was  organized  in 
1643,  together  with  Essex,  Suffolk,  and  Norfolk  Counties).  On  Merrimac 
St.  is  a lai;ge  public  library,  and  the  Y.  M.  Christian  As.  ^ciation  has 
pleasant  reading-rooms  near  the  corner  of  Merrimac  and  Goj  .am  Sts. 

Lowell  has  been  visited  by  many  of  the  distinguished  foreigners  who  have  trav- 
elled in  America.  Sir  Charles  Lyell  came  here,  also  Charles  Dickens,  who  devoted 
a chapter  (IV.,  American  Notes)  to  it,  and  Fredrika  Bremer,  who  speaks  of  the 
“ glorious  view  from  Drew  croft’s  Hill  on  a cold  winter  evening,  of  the  manufac- 
tories of  Lowell  lying  below  in  a lialf-circlc,  glittering  with  a thousand  lights,  like 
a magic  castle  on  the  snow-covered  earth.” 

By  going  to  the  upper  end  of  Merrimac  St. , and  turning  to  the  1. , one 
comes  to  the  bridge  over  the  Merrimac,  from  which  a view  of  Pawtucket 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  %9.  191 


Falls  and  the  canal  entrance  may  be  gained.  On  a little  enrailed  green 
on  Merrimac  St.  the  city  has  erected  a monument  to  two  of  her  young 
men,  Ladd  and  Whitney,  who  belonged  to  the  6th  Mass.  Militia  Reg., 
and  were  killed  during  the  murderous  attack  on  that  corps  by  the  roughs 
of  Baltimore,  April  19,  1861.  Near  this  monument  is  a * bronze  statue 
of  Victory,  by  the  celebrated  German  sculptor,  Rauch,  which  has  been 
erected  as  a memorial  to  the  men  of  Lowell  who  fell  in  fighting  against 
the  Rebellion. 

After  leaving  Lowell,  the  line  follows  the  Merrimac  River  to  Concord. 
A seat  on  the  r.  is  preferable.  Stations,  Middlesex,  and  N.  Chelmsford. 
Middlesex  is  at  the  N.  end  of  the  old  Middlesex  Canal,  running  from  this 
point  to  Boston,  27  M.  It  was  completed  in  1808,  at  a cost  of  $ 528,000, 
and  had  20  locks  in  a fall  of  136  ft.,  but  since  the  era  of  railroads  began, 
it  has  been  neglected,  and  is  not  used.  At  N.  Chelmsford  the  Stony 
Brook  Railroad  comes  in  from  Groton  (Ayer)  Junction.  The  line  soon 
regains  the  banks  of  the  Merrimac  near  Wicassic  Falls,  and  stops  at 
Tyngsboro ’,  soon  after  which  it  crosses  the  State  line  and  enters  New 
Hampshire. 

Nashua. 

Hotels,  * Indian  Head,  corner  Main  and  Pearl  Sts.  ; Tremont ; Merrimac,  oppo- 
site the  station. 

The  town  of  Dunstable  (in  which  Nashua  was  included)  was  settled 
before  King  Philip’s  War,  and  was  bravely  defended  through  that  and 
the  succeeding  conflicts.  So  late  as  1803,  the  present  site  of  the  city  was 
a sandy  plain  covered  with  pine-trees.  The  Nashua  Manufacturing  Co. 
was  chartered  in  1 823,  and  factories  were  erected  along  the  canals,  while 
the  new  village  grew  in  importance,  until  in  1853  it  became  a city. 

Nashua  is  a pleasant  city  (10,541  inhabitants),  situated  on  hilly  ground 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Merrimac  and  Nashua  Rivers.  It  has  11  churches, 
6 bodies  of  Masons,  3 of  Odd  Fellows,  and  1 daily  and  2 weekly  news- 
papers. The  streets  are  broad  and  well-lighted,  and  lined  with  trees, 
while  some  of  the  churches  and  private  residences  are  of  pleasing  appear- 
ance. et  By  the  wondrous  alchemy  of  skill  and  enterprise,  out  of  the 
waters  of  the  Nashua  and  the  sands  of  this  pine  plain,  from  some  half 
a dozen  dwellings  have  been  raised  up  these  thronged  and  beautiful 
villages.” 

The  water-power  is  taken  from  Mine  Falls  on  the  Nashua  River,  from 
which  a canal  has  been  cut  3 M.  long,  60  ft.  wide,  and  8 ft.  deep,  with  a 
head  and  fall  of  36  ft.  The  Nashua  Manufacturing  Co.  and  other  cotton 
mills  have  over  2,000  operatives.  110  men  are  engaged  in  making  cards 
and  glazed  paper  ; 150  men  make  locks  ; 75  make  fans;  40  make  hoop- 
skirts  ; 70  are  engaged  on  soapstone  work;  and  160  make  shuttles  and 
bobbins.  The  Underhill  Edge  Tool  Co.  uses  100  tons  of  iron  and  steel 


192  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


annually;  the  Val^Mills  consume  500  bales  of  cotton;  and  the  immense 
Nashua  Iron  Works  consume  3,000  tons  of  iron,  800  tons  of  steel,  and 
4,000  tons  of  coal  each  year.  Besides  the  goods  already  mentioned, 
Nashua  produces  yearly  30,000  yards  of  ingrain  carpets,  and  16,000  bed- 
steads. 

The  station  of  the  through  line  is  1 M.  E.  of  the  centre  of  Nashua.  The  Wor- 
cester and  Nashua  station  is  on  the  main  street,  and  the  Boston  station  is  \ M. 
N.  of  it,  in  the  centre  of  the  city. 

Nashua  to  Wilton. 

From  the  latter  station  the  Wilton  Branch  R.  R.  runs  16  M.  N.  W.  to  Wilton. 
This  line  passes  through  a pleasant  and  retired  hill-country,  much  frequented  by 
city  people  in  summer. 

Stations,  S.  Merrimac  and  Amherst.  The  main  village  of  Amherst  town  is  some 
distance  N.  of  the  station,  and  the  popular  Amherst  Spring  (good  hotel)  is  about 
3 M.  from  the  station  (stages  to  the  village  and  springs).  The  village  is  on  a high 
plain,  \ M.  square,  and  abounds  in  shade-trees.  , 

This  town  was  granted  to  Essex  Co.  veterans  of  the  Narragansett  War,  and 
was  named  in  1760,  in  honor  of  Gen.  Amherst,  the  commander  in  the  Conquest 
of  Canada.  It  sent  120  men  to  the  Continental  Army,  although  its  population  in 
1775  was  larger  than  in  1870.  In  a small  farmhouse,  5 M.  from  Amherst  village, 
Horace  Greeley  was  born,  Feb.  3,  1811.  He  learned  the  printer’s  trade  in  Poult- 
ney,  Vt.,  between  his  15th  and  19th  year,  and  soon  after  went  to  New  York,  where 
he  started  several  papers  (the  Morning  Post,  New-Yorker,  Jeffersonian,  Log-Cabin). 
In  1841  he  founded  the  New  York  Tribune,  which  became  one  of  the  most 
powerful  and  spirited  of  the  New  York  newspapers,  and  advocated  the  abolition 
of  slavery,  the  elevation  of  the  laboring  classes,  and  the  protection  (by  tariff) 
of  American  manufactures.  Mr.  Greeley  generally  supported  the  measures  of 
the  Republican  party  from  its  origin  until  1872  although  favoring  a more 
extended  amnesty  for  the  Southern  States.  In  1872  he  joined  the  Liberal  party, 
Avhich  seceded  from  the  Republicans  on  account  of  dissatisfaction  with  President 
Grant’s  administration.  He  was  nominated  as  candidate  for  the  Presidency  by 
the  Liberal  Convention  at  Cincinnati,  and  by  the  Democratic  Convention  at  Bal- 
timore. After  a long  and  bitter  campaign,  Grant  was  re-elected,  and  soon  after, 
worn  out  by  toil,  Mr.  Greeley  died  near  New  York.  He  was  eccentric  in  many  of  his 
ways,  and  loved  a quiet,  rural  life,  while  his  powerful  and  pungent  editorials  made 
him  the  leading  journalist  in  America. 

Station,  Milford  (Union  House  ; Milford  Springs  House),  a manufacturing  vil- 
lage on  the  broad  meadows  of  the  Souhegan  River.  Stages  run  daily  to  Mount 
Vernon,  with  its  “beautiful  prospect  of  towns  and  villages  in  the  Merrimac  and 
Souhegan  valleys.  Sunrise  in  summer  brings  to  view  a vast  expanse,  including 
the  beautiful  villages  of  Massachusetts  ; while  from  the  spire  of  the  church  can 
be  seen  the  snow-white  sails  upon  the  distant  ocean.  The  name  is  a fit  emblem 
of  the  spot ; for,  clustering  around  this  eminence,  are  numerous  farms,  in  the  mild 
seasons  clad  in  the  richest  verdure.”  The  large  summer-hotel  was  partially 
burned  in  1872,  but  is  in  process  of  reconstruction. 

A daily  stage  runs  from  Milford  to  Francestown  (small  inn),  the  birthplace  of 
Senator  Levi  Woodbury.  The  town  has  one  mountain  and  two  lakes,  also  a quarry 
of  fine  gray  freestone. 

Station,  Wilton  (Whiting  House),  a manufacturing  village  in  a glen  on  the 
Souhegan  River.  2,000  gallons  of  milk,  besides  other  dairy  products,  are  sent  to 
Boston  daily  from  this  town.  This  is  a popular  summer  resort  (2£  hours  from 
Boston),  being  rich  in  hill-scenery  and  falling  waters.  Barnes’  Cascade,  Pack 
Monadnock  Mt.,  and  Lyndeborough  are  often  visited.  A daily  stage  rims  from 
Wilton  to  Lyndeborough  (Mountain  House). 

Nashua  to  Concord.  35  M. 

Stations  (on  the  main  line),  Thornton's  Ferry,  Merrimac,  Reed's  Ferry, 
Goff's  Falls,  and  Manchester. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  29.  19 


Manchester. 

Hotels.  Manchester  House,  Elm  St.  ; City  Hotel ; Stearns  House  ; Amoskeag 
House. 

This  city  was  settled  early  in  the  last  century  by  conflicting  colonies  of  Scotch 
Presbyterians  and  Massachusetts  Puritans.  For  75  years  from  its  settlement, 
Derryfield  (as  it  was  then  called)  had  neither  a minister  nor  a lawyer,  nor  did  it 
send  any  of  its  youth  to  college.  The  large  fisheries  at  the  Falls  attracted  the 
settlers  here. 

“ From  the  eels  they  formed  their  food  in  chief, 

And  eels  were  called  the  ‘ Derryfield  beef’  ! 

And  the  marks  of  eels  were  so  plain  to  trace. 

That  the  children  looked  like  eels  in  the  face.” 

Manchester  (23,509  inhabitants)  is  the  most  populous  city  in  New 
Hampshire,  and  is  built  on  a broad  plain  near  the  Merrimac  River.  Elm 
Street  is  its  principal  thoroughfare,  and  is  100  ft.  wide  and  over  a mile 
long.  Public  squares,  with  ponds  enclosed  in  their  limits,  have  been  laid 
out  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  among  the  churches  may  be  noticed 
the  Unitarian,  on  Beech  St.,  the  Catholic  and  the  Episcopal  on  Lowell 
St.,  and  the  Convent  and  Church  of  St.  Ann,  on  Merrimac  St.  The  City 
Library  contains  about  16,000  volumes,  and  there  are  2 daily  and  2 weekly 
newspapers.  The  compact  lines  of  tenement-houses,  near  the  factories, 
were  built  for  the  operatives,  and  are  both  commodious  and  substantial. 
The  growth  of  this  city  has  been  very  rapid,  and  its  river-front  is  now 
lined  with  great  brick  factories,  a striking  view  of  which  is  obtained  from 
the  W’.  bank  of  the  river  (in  Goffstown). 

The  water-power  of  Manchester  is  furnished  by  the  Blodget  Canal, 
built  in  1816  around  the  Amoskeag  Falls  on  the  Merrimac  River.  These 
Falls  have  a descent  of  47  feet,  with  rapids  above,  and  in  high  water  they 
afford,  even  now,  a grand  sight.  The  Amoskeag,  Stark,  and  Langdon 
Mills,  and  the  Manchester  Print  Works  are  located  along  the  canal.  The 
Amoskeag  Co.  has  6 mills,  with  105,000  spindles,  employing  3,000  hands; 
and  38-40,000  bales  of  cotton  are  consumed  yearly  in  the  factories  of 
the  city.  The  Print  Works  have  a capital  of  $1,800,000,  and  employ 
3,200  hands  and  16  printing-machines,  with  3,000  horse-power,  printing 
20,000,000  yards  of  cloth  yearly.  The  Manchester  Locomotive  Works 
employ  325  men,  and  make  50  locomotives  yearly,  besides  much  other 
heavy  work,  while  the  Amoskeag  Manufacturing  Co.  turns  out  many 
steam  fire-engines.  There  are  also  made  here  yearly  150,000  axes  ; 3,750 
Novelty  sewing-machines  ; 22,000  barrels  of  ale;  many  thousand  dozen 
files ; and  several  hundred  tons  of  paper. 

Lake  Massabesic  (*  Massabesic  House , 100  guests,  $ 2.50  a day,  $10.00 
a week)  is  4 M.  E.  from  the  city,  on  the  Candia  road.  The  Portsmouth 
Railroad  has  a station  near  the  hotel.  The  Lake  is  4 M.  long,  and  is 
very  irregular  in  outline,  having  31  M.  of  shore,  with  some  beaches  of 
white  sand,  while  numerous  picturesque  islets  dot  its  surface.  The  Fairy 
Grotto  and  a curious  sulphur  cave  (Devil’s  Den)  are  often  visited. 

9 M 


194  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


The  Manchester  and  N.  Weare  R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  19  M.,  passing  the  stations, 
Bedford,  Goffstown,  Parker’s,  Oil  Mills,  Raymond,  and  E.  Weare,  to  N.  Weare, 
in  a busy  manufacturing  town.  The  Concord  and  Portsmouth  R.  R.  runs  from 
Manchester  to  Portsmouth  in  18  M.  ; and  a railroad  runs  S.  E.  to  Lawrence  in 
26  M. 

After  leaving  Manchester,  on  the  main  line,  the  train  passes  Martin’s 
Ferry,  and  stops  at  Hookset  (Ayer  House ; Stearns  House).  Just  be- 
fore reaching  the  station,  the  Merrimac  is  crossed  by  a bridge  550  ft.  long. 
This  village  is  the  seat  of  cotton  factories  and  extensive  brickyards  (mak- 
ing 4,000,000  bricks  a year),  and  derives  considerable  water-power  from 
16  ft.  falls  in  the  river.  In  the  W.  of  the  town  is  a lofty  and  ragged 
pile  of  rocks  called  Pinnacle  Mt.,  from  whose  summit  a good  view  of 
the  valley  is  gained.  At  its  base  is  a deep,  clear  pond  which  has  no 
visible  outlet.  This  town  is  on  the  reservation  given  by  Massachusetts  to 
Passaconoway,  the  great  Sachem  of  the  Pennacooks.  His  son  and  suc- 
cessor, Wonnolancet,  was  converted  by  the  apostle  Eliot,  and  when  King 
Philip’s  ardent  eloquence  had  persuaded  the  Pennacooks  to  enter  the 
anti-English  Confederation,  he  resigned  the  sachemdom,  and  went  to 
Canada  with  his  family. 

A branch  road  (over  which  some  through  trains  pass)  crosses  the  river  at 
Hookset  Falls,  and  runs  through  Suncook  and  Pembroke  to  Concord.  Suncook 
(Suncook  House)  has  a water-power  from  the  falls  in  the  Suncook  River,  near  its 
confluence  with  the  Merrimac. 

The  Suncook  Valley  R.  R.  runs  from  Hookset  N.  E.  to  Pittsfield  (20  M.),  passing 
the  stations,  Suncook,  Allenstown,  Short  Falls,  Chichester,  and  Webster’s  Mills. 

The  main  line  passes  through  the  town  of  Bow,  and  the  W.  bank  of 
the  river,  and  enters 

Concord. 

Hotels.  * Eagle  Hotel  ; Plienix  House. 

The  territory  now  covered  by  Concord  was  granted  by  Massachusetts  in  1725, 
and  occupied  soon  after,  the  Pennacook  Indians  giving  way.  It  was  named  Rum- 
ford  in  1733,  and  8 years  later  was  confirmed  as  a part  of  New  Hampshire,  to  the 
great  regret  of  the  settlers,  who  petitioned  the  king  to  give  the  territory  back  to 
Mass.  At  the  breaking  out  of  war  with  France,  seven  timber  forts  were  built, 
in  which  the  96  men  of  the  town,  with  their  families,  lived  in  state  of  siege. 
Several  of  the  townsmen  were  killed  or  captured.  For  many  years  a litigation 
was  carried  on  between  the  proprietors  of  the  town  of  Bow  and  the  Rumfordites, 
the  former  claiming  that  the  grant  from  Mass,  under  which  Rumford  was  settled 
was  illegal  and  void.  The  N.  H.  courts  decided  that  the  Mass,  grant  was  value- 
less, and  then  the  vexed  colonists  sent  two  commissioners  with  an  appeal  to  the 
king.  He  decided  in  favor  of  the  Rumford  people,  and  by  an  order  in  council 
confirmed  them  in  their  rights.  As  late  as  1772,  negroes  were  bought  and  sold 
here,  and  bears  and  wolves  were  very  troublesome  to  the  farmers.  The  name 
Concord  was  adox>ted  in  1765,  and.in  1805  the  town  was  made  the  State  capital. 

Concord,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  New  Hampshire,  is  a handsome 
city  of  12,241  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Merrimac  River, 
equally  distant  from  the  ocean  and  from  the  Connecticut  River.  Main 
and  State  Streets  run  parallel  with  the  river,  and  are  broad  and  pleasant 
avenues.  The  abundance  of  shade-trees  on  these  and  the  cross-streets 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  2D.  195 


gives  the  city  a pleasant,  embowered  appearance.  The  State  Capitol  is  a 
fine  structure,  fronting  across  a small  park  on  Main  St.  It  is  built  of 
Concord  granite,  and  the  projecting  portico  is  sustained  by  eight  pairs  of 
coupled  columns.  The  State  Library  is  in  a hall  opening  off  the  first 
lobby,  which  is  richly  decorated  with  the  colors  of  the  N.  H.  regiments  in 
the  Secession  War.  The  halls  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representa- 
tives are  neat  and  commodious.  The  building  is  surmounted  by  a lofty 
and  graceful  dome,  from  which  a pleasant  view  is  obtained. 

The  City  Hall  and  Court  House  is  on  Main  St.,  N.  of  the  Capitol,  and 
is  a neat  brick  building,  surmounted  by  a round  dome. 

The  State  Prison  is  on  State  St.,  and  covers  2 acres  of  ground.  It  was 
established  here  in  1812,  and  on  May  1,  1871,  had  91  convicts.  It  is 
carried  on  with  profit  to  the  State,  as  the  convicts  are  kept  busily  at 
work,  so  that  in  the  year  from  May,  1870, -May,  1871,  its  cost  was 
$ 17,328,  and  its  earnings  amounted  to  $ 22,954. 

The  State  Asylum  for  the  Insane  has  fine  buildings  in  the  W.  part  of 
the  city.  It  was  founded  in  1842,  since  which  it  has  treated  over  3,000 
patients.  Its  present  capacity  is  nearly  400  patients,  and  many  are  dis- 
charged yearly  as  perfectly  cured. 

Benjamin  Thompson,  Count  Rumford,  born  at  Woburn,  Mass.,  1753,  was  long  a 
resident  of  Concord  (then  called  Rumford).  At  the  time  of  the  Revolution 
(being  then  a school-teacher  at  Rumford),  he  was  unjustly  suspected  of  disloyalty 
to  the  American  cause,  and  was  annoyed  until  he  topk  refuge  in  the  British  lines. 
He  became  an  under-secretary  in  Lord  Germaine’s  cabinet  at  London,  and  after- 
wards raised  the  “King’s  American  Dragoons”  in  New  York,  with  which  he 
surprised  and  dispersed  Marion’s  men  (1782).  He  was  knighted  by  King  George, 
and  in  1784  became  chamberlain  and  aid-de-camp  to  the  Elector  of  Bavaria. 
Here  he  reorganized  the  army,  suppressed  beggary,  made  the  Park  at  Munich, 
and  kept  the  Electorate  neutral  during  the  Franco- Austrian  War.  He  was  made 
State  councillor,  lieut-gen. , minister  of  war,  count  (taking  the  title  from  his  old 
home),  and  head  of  the  regency.  He  founded  the  Royal  Institution  at  London, 
married  the  widow  of  Lavoisier,  and  became  one  of  the  leading  scientists  of 
Europe.  He  discovered  that  heat  is  only  a mode  of  motion,  and  wrote  exten- 
sively on  light,  heat,  and  other  scientific  subjects.  He  endowed  a professorship 
in  Harvard  University,  and  passed  the  last  16  years  of  his  life  in  scientific  ex- 
periments. His  daughter,  the  Countess  of  Rumford,  lived  in  Concord  until  her 
death,  in  1852.  A fine  bronze  statue  of  the  Count  has  been  erected  in  one  of  the 
principal  promenades  of  Munich  (near  the  Hotel  des  Quatre  Saisons). 

Abbot,  Downing,  & Co.’s  coach  and  express-wagon  works  at  Concord  are  the 
largest  in  the  world,  and  their  wagons  are  sent  to  Japan,  Australia,  and  California, 
besides  being  in  high  repute  throughout  the  Atlantic  States.  Hill’s  harnesses 
(75  men  in  the  works)  are  also  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  Prescott  Melo- 
deons  have  been  made  here  since  1837,  and  a furniture  company  uses  $1,000,000 
worth  of  lumber  yearly.  75,000  mackerel  kits  and  22,000  lasts  are  made  here 
yearly.  At  Fisherville  are  large  furniture  factories,  making  12-15,000  chamber- 
sets  yearly,  much  of  which  is  sent  to  California.  Near  the  city  are  inexhaustible 
quarries  of  fine  granite,  which  is  sent  to  the  Eastern  cities  and  used  in  some  of 
the  finest  of  their  public  buildings. 

The  Birchdale  Springs  (small  hotel)  are  near  the  city,  and  should  be  visited  for 
the  sake  of  the  pleasant  drive.  Most  of  the  roads  about  Concord  are  level  and 
smooth,  and  afford  very  interesting  rides. 

A beautiful  ante-colonial  tradition  of  this  locality  is  preserved  by  Whittier  in 
“ The  Bridal  of  Pennacook,”  one  of  his  longest  poems.  It  gives  a charming  picture 
of  the  Merrimac  valley  centuries  ago,  when 


196  Route  £9. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


“ In  their  sheltered  repose,  looking  out  from  the  wood 
The  bark-builded  wigwams  of  Pennacook  stood. 

There  glided  the  corn-dance,  the  council-fire  shone. 

And  against  the  red  war-post  the  hatchet  was  thrown. 

There  the  old  smoked  in  silence  their  pipes,  and  the  young 
To  the  pike  and  the  white-perch  their  baited  lines  flung  ; 

There  the  boy  shaped  his  arrow,  and  there  the  shy  maid 
Wove  her  many-hued  baskets  and  bright  wampum  braid.” 

Concord  to  Claremont.  56J  M. 

Concord  and  Claremont,  and  Sugar  River  Railroads. 

Soon  after  leaving  Concord  the  line  passes  W.  Concord  and  stops  at  Contoocook, 
■whence  a branch  road  runs  up  the  valley  of  the  Contoocook  River  to  Hillsborough 
Bridge  (15  M.  S.  E.).  In  this  village  is  the  mansion  of  Gov.  Pierce,  where 
Franklin  Pierce  was  born  in  1804.  He  practised  law  in  Concord  for  some  years, 
was  U.  S.  Senator,  1837-42,  and  brig. -gen.  in  the  Mexican  War.  At  the  Demo- 
cratic Convention  of  1852  he  was  nominated  (on  the  40th  ballot)  for  the  Presidency, 
and  defeated  Gen.  Scott,  the  Whig  candidate,  by  254  electoral  votes  out  of  296. 
During  his  administration,  Arizona  was  annexed,  Kansas  and  Nebraska  were 
opened  to  slavery,  and  the  Ostend  Manifesto  (to  Spain)  was  issued.  Mr.  Pierce 
favored  the  pro-slavery  party,  and  sympathized  with  the  Secessionists  in  the  war 
of  1861  - 5. 

From  Hillsborough  Bridge,  stages  run  to  the  thinly-populated  towns  to  the 
S.  and  W. 

Beyond  Contoocook  the  main  line  follows  Warner  River  through  the 
town  of  Warner,  in  which  there  are  four  stations. 

Station,  Bradford  (Bradford  House,  Presby  House,  good),  a pleasant 
village  near  Bradford  Pond,  which  is  1J  M.  long,  and  contains  several 
islands.  Many  summer  visitors  stay  here  in  the  pleasant  hotels,  and  ex- 
plore the  mountainous  district  in  the  vicinity.  Lovewell’s  Mt.  and 
Sunapee  Mt.  are  near  Bradford,  and  Mt.  Kearsarge  is  but  10  M.  distant 
(N.  E.).  5 M.  from  the  village  are  the  popular  Bradford  Springs  (good 

hotel),  near  the  lake-studded  town  of  Washington.  Stages  run  daily 
from  Bradford  to  Hillsborough  Bridge  (10  M.  S.)  Between  Bradford  and 
Sunapee,  the  railroad  passes  through  a cutting  (at  Newbury  Summit) 
through  400  ft.  of  intensely  hard,  slag-like  rock.  This  cutting  was  one 
of  the  most  difficult  and  costly  in  the  United  States.  It  should  be  seen 
from  the  rear  of  the  train. 

The  line  now  passes  along  the  S.  shore  of  Sunapee  Lake  for  nearly  2 M., 
with  Sunapee  Mt.  on  the  1.  Station,  Sunapee , N.  of  which  is  the  village 
of  Sunapee  Harbor  (Young’s  Lake  House).  Lake  Sunapee  is  a beautiful 
sheet  of  water  9 M.  long,  and  averaging  2|  M.  -wide.  It  abounds  in  fish, 
and  is  surrounded  by  romantic  scenery.  The  adjacent  towns  have  many 
sequestered  lakelets,  and  from  Sunapee  Mt.  is  gained  a pretty  view  of  the 
lake  and  hill-country,  with  Mt.  Kearsarge  to  the  E. 

Station,  Newport  (Newport  blouse;  Plienix  House),  the  shire-town  of 
Sullivan  Co.,. a pleasant  village  enwalled  by  hills,  and  situated  on  the 
Sugar  River.  Several  small  mountains  are  situated  in  this  town,  and  there 
are  romantic  glens  along  the  Sugar  River  and  its  branches.  Sunapee 
Lake  is  6 M.  distant,  and  Croydon  Mt. , the  highest  summit  in  the  county, 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  29.  197 


is  9 - 10  M.  N.  in  the  bleak  and  granite-strewn  highland  town  of  Croydon. 
Beyond  Newport  the  line  follows  the  impetuous  Sugar  River  through  its 
glens  and  gorges  to  Claremont  (Tremont  House  ; Sullivan  House).  This 
town  was  settled  in  1767  by  Connecticut  men,  and  was  named  for  Lord 
Clive’s  summer  mansion.  There  is  much  rich  alluvial  land  in  the  town, 
and  the  valley  is  bounded  by  a great  range  of  hills.  Claremont  village  is 
at  the  rapids  on  Sugar  River,  where  a fall  of  150  ft.  in  less  than  a mile 
gives  a great  water-power.  The  Monadnock  Mills,  the  Sugar  River  Paper 
Mills,  fhe  Claremont  Manufacturing  Co.,  the  Claremont  Linen  Co.,  and 
other  corporations  have  their  works  here.  Immense  quantities  of  rags  are 
consumed  in  the  manufacture  of  paper,  500  tons  of  which  are  turned  out 
yearly.  Over  3,500,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths,  70,000  yards  of  doeskins, 

70.000  yards  of  flannels,  are  made  here  yearly.  Claremont  village  has  5 
churches  and  a fine  high  school,  which  was  endowed  by  Paran  Stevens, 
the  American  hotel-king.  Flat  Rock,  Twist  Back,  and  Bible  Hill  are 
visited  by  those  who  summer  here,  while  from  Green  Mt.  a fine  view  of 
the  Conn,  valley  is  enjoyed.  Ascutney  is  10  M.  N. 

2 M.  from  Claremont  the  railroad  connects  with  the  Vermont  Central, 
56  J M.  from  Concord  (see  Route  24). 

The  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  and  White  Mountains  R.  R.  runs  N.  from 
Concord  (see  Route  30).  A railroad  is  being  built  to  Rochester,  40  M.  E.  of  Con- 
cord.- From  Concord  to  Portsmouth,  see  Route  37. 

The  train  on  the  Montreal  line  now  passes  on  the  rails  of  the  Northern 
(N.  H.)  R.  R.,  and  runs  N.  from  Concord  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Merrimac. 
Just  after  passing  the  manufacturing  village  of  Fisherville,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Merrimac  and  Contoocook  Rivers,  the  train  crosses  a bridge 
to  Duston’s  Island,  and  thence  by  another  bridge  to  the  shore.  On  this 
island  Mrs.  Duston,  of  Haverhill,  killed  her  Indian  captors  and  escaped. 
The  line  now  runs  along  the  broad  intervales  of  Boscawen  (two  stations). 

In  this  town  were  born  C.  G.  Greene,  who  founded  the  “ Boston  Post  ” in  1831  ; 
W.  P.  Fessenden,  the  eminent  and  powerful  U.  S.  Senator  from  Maine  (1854-69); 
and  John  A.  Dix,  an  officer  in  the  army,  1812-28,  U.  S.  Senator  from  New  York. 
1845-9,  Major-Gen.  in  the  army  which  crushed  the  Rebellion  of  1861-5,  and 
Minister  to  France,  1867-9.  He  was  nominated  as  candidate  for  Gov.  of  New 
York  by  the  Free  Soil  Democrats  in  1848,  but  was  defeated,  and  in  1872  he  was 
elected  Governor,  which  office  he  now  occupies. 

Stations,  Webster  Place  and  Franldin  (Webster  House  ; Franklin 
House).  2 M.  S.  W.  of  Franklin  village  Daniel  Webster  was  born,  in 
1782.  The  family  moved  to  a new  home  near  Webster  Place,  and 
he  afterwards  bought  this  latter  estate,  and  used  to  retire  there  to  rest. 
Franklin  village  is  near  the  confluence  of  the  Winnepesaukee  and  Pemi- 
gewasset  Rivers,  which  form  the  Merrimac.  It  is  a thriving  mechani- 
cal village,  situated  in  the  valley  below  the  railroad,  and  makes  yearly 

150.000  pairs  of  socks,  120,000  yards  of  flannel,  and  600  tons  of  paper. 


198  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


A branch  road  runs  from  this  point  up  the  Pemigewasset  valley  18  M. 
to  Bristol.  Near  the  station  at  Hill  Village  (Seriatim  House)  Periwig 
Mt.  is  seen  on  the  1.  Bristol  (Bristol  House)  is  a pretty  village  sur- 
rounded by  hills,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Newfound  and  the  Pemigewasset 
Rivers.  In  the  last  80  rods  of  its  course  the  Newfound  River  falls  100  ft., 
affording  a good  water-power.  About  2 M.  N.  of  Bristol  is  the  beautiful 
Newfound  Lake , 7 M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide.  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.  is  on  the 
W.  shore,  and  Crosby  Mt.  is  on  the  E.  A daily  stage  runs  from  Bristol, 
on  a road  which  gives  frequent  glimpses  of  the  lake,  to  Hebron  (Union 
House),  near  its  N.  end. 

After  leaving  Franklin,  the  main  line  passes  Webster  Pond  and  the 
bleak  and  precipitous  range  of  Ragged  Mt.  on  the  r.,  and  stops  at  the 
quiet  little  village  of  E.  Andover  (Lake  House),  near  its  long,  bright  lake. 
The  next  station  is  Potter  Place  (Kearsarge  House),  named  for  the  magician 
Potter.  Stages  run  from  this  station  to  Mount  Kearsarge  (4  M.  S.),  an 
isolated  peak,  with  a rocky  summit  2,461  ft.  above  the  sea.  It  affords  a 
noble  * view  in  a clear  day,  including,  on  the  W.,  Sunapee  and  Lovewell’s 
Mt.,  and  the  blue  Sunapee  Lake,  and  Croydon  and  Ascutney,  with  the 
vast  range  of  the  Green  Mts.  closing  the  horizon  behind  them.  In  the  N. 
is  Cardigan  Mt.,  with  the  Pemigewasset  Mts.  in  the  distance,  and  swing- 
ing around  to  the  r.  are  the  Franconia  and  the  White  Mts.,  with  Lake 
Winnepesaukee  in  the  N.  E.  In  the  nearer  E.  is  the  thronged  and  pros- 
perous valley  of  the  Merrimac,  while  countless  villages  dot  the  landscape 
on  every  side.  Far  up  on  the  sloping  side  of  the  Mt.  is  the  Winslow 
House,  a far- viewing  summer-hotel. 

The  American  frigate  “ Kearsarge.”  winch  sank  the  rebel  cruiser  “ Alabama  ” 
off  Cherbourg  in  1864,  was  built  on  the  N.  H.  coast,  and  named  for  this  mountain. 
Her  captain  was  John  A.  Winslow,  in  whose  honor  the  hotel  is  named. 

Stations,  W.  Andover , S.  Danbury , and  Grafton  (Pleasant  Valley 
House).  Grafton  is  S.  of  Cardigan  Mt .,  and  at  Glass  Hill  great  quanti- 
ties of  mica  are  mined.  The  Pinnacle,  on  this  hill,  has  a sharp  precipice 
150  ft.  high  on  its  N.  side.  Beyond  Grafton  Centre  the  line  passes  Ising- 
glass  Mt.  and  Tewksbury  Pond  on  the  1.,  and  stops  at  Canaan  (two  small 
inns  in  the  town).  In  the  43  M.  between  Concord  and  Grafton  the  rail- 
way has  ascended  over  800  ft.  It  now  takes  a slight  down  grade,  follow- 
ing the  valley  of  the  Mascomy  to  the  Conn.  River.  The  pretty  village  of 
Canaan  Street  lies  on  the  shore  of  Heart  Pond,  a lakelet  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  a naturally  formed  dike  of  earth.  From  Canaan  a much- 
travelled  highway  runs  N.  across  Dorchester  to  W.  Rumney  on  the  B.  C. 

& M.  R.  R. 

The  line  now  enters  Enfield,  and  skirts  Mascomy  Lake  (or  Enfield  * 
Pond),  a beautiful  sheet  of  water  4 M.  long,  on  whose  S.  W.  shore  is  a 
community  of  Shakers.  These  industrious  people  furnish  much  fine  wool 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  29.  199 


to  the  market,  also  wooden-ware  and  garden  seeds.  In  this  town  are  the 
Granite  State  and  Mount  Calm  Hotels,  with  some  quiet  and  romantic 
scenery  around  Crystal  Lake  and  Mount  Calm. 

Stations,  E.  Lebanon  and  Lebanon  (Hamilton  House),  a manufacturing 
■village  on  an  elevated  plain  near  the  Falls  on  the  Mascomy  (Nov-Anglice 
for  the  Indian  Mascoma).  Elastic  sponge,  scythes,  flour,  and  machines 
are  made  here.  Station,  W.  Lebanon  (small  hotel),  the  seat  of  Tilden 
Ladies’  Seminary,  whose  fine  buildings  are  seen  on  a commanding  hill  to 
the  1.  The  line  now  crosses  the  Connecticut  River  on  an  open  bridge, 
affording  good  views  up  and  down  stream,  and  stops  at  White  River 
Junction  ( Junction  House , good).  This  is  an  important  point  in  the 
northern  railway  systems,  the  roads  which  converge  here  being  the 
Northern  (N.  H.)  It.  R.,  the  southern  and  central  divisions  of  the  Ver- 
mont Central  R.  R.,  and  the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  and  Massawippi 
Valley  R.  R.  By  the  nearest  routes  this  Junction  is  distant  from  Boston 
142  M. ; from  New  York,  260  M. ; from  Concord,  69  M. ; from  Spring- 
field,  124  M. ; from  Burlington,  Vt.,  104  M. ; from  Montreal,  184  M.; 
from  Quebec,  266  M.  (These  figures  are  from  the  Official  Guide,  pub- 
lished at  Philadelphia.  Of  the  seven  other  books  which  allude  to  the 
subject  no  two  agree.) 

There  is  a good  restaurant  in  the  station,  and  trains  usually  stop  long 
enough  for  a dinner  to  be  obtained.  The  train  passes  now  on  to  the  rails 
of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.,  which  runs  through  a pleasant  rural  dis- 
trict, and  achieves  the  passage  of  the  Green  Mts.  by  some  fine  engineer- 
ing works.  The  picturesque  White  River  is  followed  for  25  M.  Stations, 
White  River  Village  (on  the  r.)  and  Woodstock , whence  a daily  stage 
runs  to  Bridgewater,  15  M.  S.  E.,  the  road  passing  up  the  valley  of  the 
Otta  Quechee  River.  Woodstock  village  (Eagle  Hotel),  the  shire  town  of 
Windsor  Co.,  is  on  this  road,  10  M.  from  the  railway,  and  is  a beautiful 
rural  hamlet  with  an  elm-adorned  park  in  the  valley  of  the  Otta  Quechee. 
From  Mt.  Tom  (near  the  village)  a pleasing  view  is  obtained  down  the 
long  valley  of  the  river.  The  village  has  two  weekly  journals,  a bank, 
and  a large  country  trade,  besides  some  manufactures. 

George  P.  Marsh,  U.  S.  Minister  to  Turkey,  1849-53,  and  to  Italy,  1861-73, 
was  born  here  in  1801.  He  is  distinguished  as  a philologist,  in  connection  with 
the  Norse  language.  Hiram  Powers  was  born  here  in  1805.  He  was  a farmer’s 
son,  and  after  many  vicissitudes  he  learned  the  art  of  modelling  in  plaster,  and 
opened  a studio  in  Florence  about  1837.  Since  then  he  has  executed  some  of  the 
finest  sculptures  of  modern  times.  His  “Eve”  was  highly  commended  by 
Thorwaldsen,  and  the  “Greek  Slave”  was  a noble  work,  of  which  copies  have 
been  multiplied.  “ II  Penseroso,”  “California,”  “America,”  “Proserpine,” 
and  numerous  other  renowned  works,  including  portrait-statues,  have  given  him 
the  highest  rank  among  sculptors. 

Beyond  Woodstock  station  the  line  crosses  the  crystal-clear  river,  and 
passes  through  the  pretty  scenery  about  W.  Hartford  to  Sharon  station. 
The  village  is  seen  high  up  on  the  opposite  shore. 


200  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


In  1805,  Joseph  Smith,  the  founder  of  Mormonisra,  was  born  at  Sharon.  In 
1830  he  published  (at  Palmyra,  N.  Y.)  the  Book  of  Mormon,  which  he  claimed  to 
have  translated  from  metallic  plates  found  by  him  while  under  the  guidance  of 
angels.  He  went  West  with  his  converts,  and  founded  Nauvoo,  in  Illinois,  where 
he  exercised  despotic  authority  until  1844,  when  the  wrath  of  the  “Gentiles”  in 
the  neighboring  towns  was  aroused  by  his  unjust  acts.  He  was  imprisoned  at 
Carthage,  and  soon  after  the  jail  was  stormed  by  a mob,  and  he  was  killed.  Brig- 
ham Young  succeeded  him  as  “President  of  the  Church,”  and  still  maintains  the 
title.  (Rev.  Solomon  Spalding,  of  Conn.,  wrote  a romance,  “The  Manuscript 
Found  ” (in  1800).  He  allowed  Sidney  Rigdon  and  others  to  read  his  MS.,  which 
was  soon  after  stolen  from  his  widow,  and  those  who  had  read  the  romance  after- 
ward declared  that  the  Mormon  Bible  was  but  a corrupt  version  of  it.  Rigdon 
became  a prominent  Mormon). 

Station,  S.  Royalton  (S.  Royalton  House,  good),  with  the  station  on 
one  side  of  its  main  square,  on  which  front  the  hotel,  church,  and  stores. 
The  river  is  now  crossed  by  a bridge  600  ft.  long,  and  the  train  stops  at 
Royalton , where  occurred,  in  October,  1780,  the  last  Indian  attack  on 
New  England.  The  attack  was  made  by  210  Indians,  who  plundered  and 
burnt  the  village  (and  also  Sharon),  killing  and  capturing  27  of  its 
people. 

Daily  stages  N.  to  Chelsea  (Orange  Co.  House),  the  sliire-town  of  Orange  County, 
passing  through  Tunbridge  (13  M.).  Also  N.  \V.  through  E.  Bethel  and  E.  Ran- 
dolph, to  E.  Brookfield  (16  M.). 

Station,  Bethel  (Bethel  House),  a busy  manufacturing  village,  in  a glen 
among  high  hills.  Daily  stages  to  Barnard  (Silver  Lake  House),  8 M. 
distant,  and  to  Woodstock.  Also  to  Stockbridge  (10  M.),  Pittsfield  (13 
M.),  Rochester  (17  M.),  and  Hancock,  four  thinly  populated  towns  (with 
small  inns),  under  the  shadow  of  the  Green  Mts. 

Station,  Randolph  (Cottage  House  ; Chadwick  House),  a busy  village 
on  the  third  branch  of  White  River,  which  the  railroad  follows  from 
Bethel  to  Roxbury.  Stages  run  to  Chelsea,  Brookfield , and  Randolph 
Centre  (3  M.  N.  E.).  The  country  now  grows  wilder  and  more  thinly 
inhabited.  Station,  Braintree , a rude  village  surrounded  by  rugged  hills. 
To  the  W.  is  Granville , with  a road  crossing  the  mountain-pa§s,  2,340  ft. 
above  the  sea.  At  Roxbury  station  (Summit  House),  the  train  reaches 
the  summit  of  the  pass,  1,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  Near  the  village  are 
inexhaustible  quarries  of  the  best  verd-antique  marble.  Crossing  a 
bridge  400  ft.  long  and  70  ft.  high,  the  train  passes  on  to  Northfield 
(Northfield  House),  in  a populous  town  which  has  several  quarries  of 
dark  blue  slate.  The  so-called  Norwich  University  (Vt.  Military  Insti- 
tute) is  situated  here,  in  large  buildings  on  a hill  to  the  r.  of  the  track. 

10  M.  from  Northfield  is  Montpelier  Junction,  whence  a short  branch 
road  diverges  to  Montpelier  (Pavilion  Hotel,  opposite  the  station,  a good 
house  and  moderate  charges  ; Bishop’s  Hotel).  Montpelier,  the  capital 
of  the  State  of  Vermont,  is  a beautiful  village  of  about  3,000  inhabi- 
tants. It  is  situated  on  a plain  near  the  Winooski  River,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a highly  cultivated  hill-country.  10  M.  to  the  S.  W.  is  the 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  29.  201 


geographical  centre  of  the  State.  The  village  is  compactly  built,  and 
has  2 banks,  3 insurance  cos.  (the  Vt.  Mutual  has  $ 37,000,000  of 
risks),  4 weekly  newspapers,  and  7 churches,  one  of  which  is  a noble 
piece  of  architecture.  There  are  several  flour-mills,  lumber-mills,  and 
tanneries,  besides  which  the  village  has  an  extensive  country  trade. 
The  * State  House  is  a noble  edifice  of  light-colored  granite,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  State  House,  which  was  burnt  in  1857.  It  stands  on  a 
slight  eminence  approached  from  a verdant  Common  by  granite  steps  in 
terraces.  The  portico  is  supported  by  six  massive  fluted  Doric  columns, 
and  under  it  stands  a fine  statue  in  Vermont  marble  of  Vermont’s  hero, 
Ethan  Allen.  It  was  executed  by  Larkin  G-.  Mead,  of  Brattleboro’  (now 
living  in  Italy). 

Ethan  Allen  was  born  at  Litchfield,  Conn.,  in  1737.  He  moved  to  Vermont 
in  1766,  and  was  outlawed  by  New  York  for  his  bold  and  defiant  action  in  the 
border  feuds.  In  1775  he  took  Fort  Ticonderoga  from  the  British.  Later  in  the 
year  he  attacked  Montreal  with  110  men,  and  was  captured,  with  his  whole  com- 
mand. He  was  confined  in  Pendennis  Castle,  in  England,  for  a short  time,  but 
was  exchanged  in  1778,  and  took  command  of  the  Vermont  militia.  A royal  de- 
cree of  1764  had  constituted  the  Connecticut  River  the  E.  boundary  of  New 
York  (N.  of  Mass.),  and  Mass,  and  N.  H.  also  claimed  parts  of  its  territory.  But  a 
convention  at  Westminster,  in  1777,  declared  Vermont  a free  State.  The  Conti- 
nental Congress  would  not  ratify  this  voice  of  the  people,  and  all  its  troops  were 
withdrawn  from  the  territory.  Vermont,  thus  left  alone,  was  unable  to  resist  at- 
tacks from  the  British  in  the  N.,  and  Allen  skilfully  conducted  feigned  negotia- 
tions with  the  royal  generals,  looking  towards  annexation  to  Canada,  and  secur- 
ing neutrality  for  his  State.  It  was  only  in  1791,  after  26  years  of  controversy, 
that  Vermont  was  admitted  into  the  Union,  — to  offset  Kentucky.  After  an 
eventful  life,  Ethan  Allen  died  at  Burlington  in  1789. 

Under  the  portico  of  the  State  House  are  kept  two  cannon  taken  from 
Breyman’s  Hessians  at  the  battle  of  Bennington  (1777),  after  a desperate 
struggle.  The  British  got  them  back  when  Gen.  Hull  surrendered  the 
Army  of  the  N.  W.  at  Detroit  (August,  1812),  and  they  were  again  taken 
by  the  Americans  during  the  Canada  campaign.  They  were  sent  to 
Washington,  and  afterwards  were  presented  by  Congress  to  the  State  of 
Vermont.  The  main  building  of  the  State  House  is  72  ft.  long,  and  each 
of  the  wings  is  52  ft.,  making  a total  length  of  176  ft.  The  dome  is 
124  ft.  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a graceful  statue  of  Ceres,  the  goddess 
of  agriculture.  The  marble-paved  lower  floor  is  devoted  to  committee- 
rooms,  and  a small  collection  of  historical  and  mineral  curiosities.  In 
large  niches  at  the  ends  of  the  neat  lobby  on  the  second  floor  are  pre- 
served the  battle-flags  and  pennons  of  the  Vermont  regiments  in  the 
Secession  War.  What  with  storm,  forest-march,  and  many  battles,  these 
veteran  standards  have  lost  their  pristine  brightness  and  wholeness,  and 
with  the  names  of  the  battles  in  which  they  were  borne  written  on  them 
in  golden  letters,  they  are  carefully  kept  behind  plate-glass.  The  gallery 
of  the  Senate  is  entered  from  the  third  floor.  The  halls  of  the  Senate  and 
House  are  well  worth  visiting,  being  graceful  in  form  and  well  ornamented. 
A substantial  stone  bridge  crosses  the  Winooski  River  at  Montpelier,  and 
7* 


202  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


the  country  about  the  village  affords  many  pleasant  objective  points  for 
a summer  day’s  ride  or  ramble. 

Daily  stages  to  Worcester,  7 M.  N.  (Worcester  House),  and  tri-weekly  to  Elmore, 
20  M.  N.  Daily  stages  to  Hardwick,  20  M.  N.  E.,  on  the  Portland  ancl  Ogdensburg 
R.  R.,  passing  through  Calais  (12  M.  ; Moscow  House)  and  Woodbury,  thinly 
populated  towns  with  scores  of  small  lakes  abounding  in  trout  and  other  hsh. 
Daily  stages  to  Marshfield,  15  M.  N.  E.,  on  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Winooski,  where 
that  stream  falls  500  ft.  in  30  rods.  Also  to  Plainfield,  9 M.  E.  (Plainfield  House), 
with  a medicinal  spring  (Spring  House)  of  some  repute  ; to  Washington  (Washing- 
ton House,  Lake  House),  15  M.  S.  E.  ; to  Orange,  13  M.  S.  E.  ; to  Williamstown, 
and  to  JBarre  (Barre  House),  6 M.  S.  E. 

Beyond  Montpelier  Junction  the  main  line  passes  on  to  Middlesex 
(Washington  House),  near  which  (on  the  1.)  the  Winooski  River  passes 
through  the  Middlesex  Narrows,  a cutting  in  the  rock,  30  ft.  deep,  60  ft. 
wide,  and  1,300  ft.  long,  which  has  been  worn  by  the  action  of  the  water. 
Stages  run  S.  to  Moretown  (7  M.),  Waitsjield  (12  M. ),  and  Warren.  Beyond 
Middlesex  the  train  reaches  Waterbury  (*  Waterbury  House),  a highland 
town  abounding  in  pleasant  rambles  and  rides,  with  frequent  glimpses  of 
Camel’s  Hump  (in  the  S.  W .).  Camel's  Hump  Mt.  is  8 M.  distant,  and 
Bolton  Falls  are  but  3 M.  to  the  N.  W.,  and  both  are  approached  by 
good  roads.  N.  E.  of  Waterbury,  10  M.  (semi-daily  stage  in  summer)  is 
the  rich  farming  town  of  Stow  (*  Mansfield  House,  opened  in  1865, 
accommodates  3 - 400  guests,  at  $ 3. 50  a day  ; considerable  reductions  for 
a long  stay.  100  horses  are  kept  in  the  stables).  Stow,  “ the  Saratoga 
cf  Vermont,”  is  charmingly  situated  in  a quiet  valley  in  full  sight  of  lofty 
mountains,  and  when  filled  with  summer  guests  it  presents*  a lively  ap- 
pearance. “ Stow  is  unrivalled  in  the  beauty,  picturesqueness,  and  luxu- 
riant magnificence  of  its  mountain  scenery.”  From  Sunset  Hill,  near  the 
hotel,  a fine  view  of  the  village  is  obtained,  and  also  of  Mt.  Mansfield 
and  Camel’s  Flump.  3 - 4 M.  N.  E.  of  Stow,  on  the  slope  of  Worcester  Mt., 
are  the  Moss  Glen  Falls,  in  a narrow,  rock-walled  ravine  which  contains 
three  picturesque  basins.  * This  bit  of  Tyrolese  scenery  has  been  greatly 
damaged  by  the  erection  of  a saw-mill,  for  whose  benefit  the  falls  are 
dammed  above.  The  Smugglers'  Notch  is  a romantic  pass  between  the  Nose 
Peak  of  Mt.  Mansfield  and  Sterling  Mt.  (3,500  ft.  high).  It  is  9 M.  from 
Stow,  and  a good  road  leads  to  a small  hotel  in  the  Notch,  near  the  great 
spring  which  is  the  source  of  the  Waterbury  River.  A horse-path  beyond 
the  hotel  leads  in  M.  to  Berton’s  Rock,  a boulder  weighing  about  100 
tons,  which  fell  from  the  abrupt  cliffs  that  tower  on  each  side  to  the 
height  of  1,000  ft.  A little  way  beyond,  the  path  begins  to  descejid  to 
the  plains  of  Cambridge.  This  pass  was  used  during  the  War  of  1812  for 
smuggling  goods  between  Central  Vermont  and  Canada.  A few  miles  N. 
is  Daniel’s  Notch,  between  Sterling  Mt.  and  the  lofty  White  Face.  Bing- 
ham’s Falls,  5 M.  from  Stow,  Morrisville  Falls,  8 M.,  West  Hill,  2 M., 
and  Gold  Brook,  3 M.,  are  often  visited. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  29.  203 


Mount  Mansfield. 

This  is  the  loftiest  of  the  Green  Mts.,  and  its  highest  peak  is  4,348  ft. 
above  the  sea.  As  seen  from  above  Stow  it  presents  the  appearance  of 
the  profile  of  a human  face,  the  S.  peak  being  the  forehead,  the  middle 
peak  the  nose,  and  the  N.  peak  the  chin. 

After  leaving  Stow,  the  highway  is  followed  for  5 M.,  and  then  a 
mountain  road  turns  to  the  1.,  ascending  through  the  forest,  2J  M.,  to  the 
Half-Way  House,  from  which  a pretty  valley  view  is  gained.  Here 
begins  the  long  and  arduous  ascent  to  the  Summit  House.  The  forest 
dwindles  away  until  the  path  reaches  the  Nose,  whence  a view  is  given 
into  the  profound  depths  of  the  Smugglers’  Notch.  The  Summit  House 
is  a commodious  hotel  (for  100  guests  ; $ 3.50  a day)  situated  at  the  base 
of  the  Nose,  which  is  climbed  by  a steep  path  on  its  W.  slope  (2  - 300  ft. 
high).  On  the  E.  side  of  this  peak  is  the  rock-profile  called  the  “ Old 
Man  of  the  Mt.”  About  2 M.  of  steady,  though  not  fatiguing  ascent 
leads  from  the  house  to  the  Chin , passing  over  ledges  marked  by  long 
scratches  once  received  from  rocks  fixed  in  drifting  icebergs,  which  passed 
over  the  silent  waves  of  some  shoreless  primeval  sea.  The  Chin  is  340  ft. 
higher  than  the  Nose,  and  is  3,800  ft.  above  Stow,  and  4,348  ft.  above 
the  sea.  This  peak  offers  a more  extensive  northern  view  than  that  from 
the  Nose  (with  an  impressive  view  down  the  Notch),  and  is  easily  visited, 
although  parties  who  go  out  to  it  usually  stop  over  night  at  the  Summit 
House,  thereby  gaining  the  superb  effects  of  sunset  and  sunrise. 

The  * * view  from  the  Nose  is  very  similar  to  that  from  the  Chin,  and  is,  perhaps, 
the  noblest  (though  not  the  most  extensive)  in  New  England.  On  the  S.  are  seen 
Camel’s  Hump  (15  M.)  and  Killington  Peak  (65  M.),  with  a great  number  of  name- 
less peaks  and  ridges  of  the  Green  Mts.  The  great  Lake  Champlain  fills  the 
horizon  from  S.  W.  to  N.  W.,  being  visible  through  the  greater  part  of  its  extent, 
with  the  ancient  blue  Adirondacks  lifting  their  cloud-like  summits  beyond.  The 
apparently  level  lowlands  of  the  Champlain  valley  are  spread  out  like  a map 
below,  dotted  with  numerous  white  villages  (beyond  which  is  Burlington),  and 
crossed  by  many  streams.  The  great  grazing  district  of  the  LamoUle  valley 
stretches  away  to  the  N.  W.  and  glimpses  of  the  sparkling  rivers,  the  Lamoille 
and  the  Winooski,  are  caught  through  the  forests  and  foot-hills  of  the  Green  Mts. 
Far  in  the  N.  is  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  with  its  valley  dotted  with  Norman 
villages,  and  on  the  N.  W.,  with  a powerful  glass  and  on  a clear  day,  it  is  said  that 
visitors  have  seen  Mount  Royal  and  the  shining  tin  roofs  of  Montreal.  E.  of  N., 
Jay  Peak  and  Owl’s  Head  Mts.  are  seen,  the  latter  rising  from  Lake  Mem- 
phremagog,  while  still  farther  to  the  E.  are  Hor  and  Annanance,  the  mountains 
about  Willoughby  Lake.  Farther  to  the  r.  are  the  Percy  Peaks,  and  a little  S.  of 
E.  the  Franconia  and  White  Mts.  are  seen  low-lying  on  the  horizon,  60  M. 
distant. 

5 M.  beyond  Waterbury,  on  the  main  line,  is  Ridley's  Station  (Green 
Mt.  House)  whence  carriages  run  to  Camel’s  Hump,  6 M.  S.  The  road 
has  been  built  3 M.  up  the  mountain,  and  the  remainder  of  the  ascent  is 
made  on  foot  or  horseback.  A small  house  for  shelter  and  refreshments 
is  kept  open  all  summer,  1 M.  from  the  summit.  The  mountain  is  4,083 
ft.  high,  and  from  its  isolated  position  commands  an  extensive  view,  whose 


204  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


general  features  are  much  like  those  of  the  prospect  from  Mt.  Mansfield. 
The  name  Camel’s  Hump  is  derived  from  a supposed  resemblance  of  the 
outline  of  the  mountain  to  that  of  the  bapk  of  a camel. 

Near  Ridley’s,  and  seen  from  the  track  (to  the  N.),  are  the  Bolton  Falls , 
amid  some  wild  rock-scenery  in  a deep  ravine  nearly  4,000  ft.  below  the 
peak  of  Mt.  Mansfield.  The  line  now  follows  the  picturesque  valley  of 
the  Winooski  to  Jonesville,  whence  stages  run  to  Hinesburg,  Starksboro, 
and  the  rugged  towns  of  Huntington  (under  Camel’s  Hump)  and  Under- 
hill (under  Mt.  Mansfield).  Station,  Richmond  (Richmond  House),  a 
bright  village  in  the  widenings  of  the  Winooski  valley,  with  an  extensive 
trade  in  butter  and  cheese.  The  mountain-ravines  open  out  here  on  the 
Champlain  valley,  and  the  country  becomes  more  thickly  settled.  A 
bridge,  600  ft.  long,  over  the  Winooski,  is  now  passed,  and  the  train 
enters  the  farming  town  of  Williston.  For  several  miles,  running  N.  W. 
from  this  station,  fine  views  are  afforded  from  the  train,  — the  Green  Mts. 
with  their  two  loftiest  peaks  looming  up  boldly  on  the  r.,  while  the  distant 
Adirondacks  are  seen  on  the  1.  Essex  Junction  is  soon  reached,  whence 
trains  run  to  Burlington  (see  Route  26)  in  8 M.,  passing  the  remarkable 
gorges  on  the  Winooski  River. 

5 M.  N.  of  Essex  is  Colchester , to  the  W.  of  which  is  a tall-spired 
village  (Mallet’s  Bay  Hotel),  and  still  farther  W.  is  Mallet’s  Bay,  which  is 
nearly  land-locked,  has  numerous  islets,  and  affords  good  bass  and  pike 
fishing.  Frequent  views  of  Lake  Champlain,  the  Adirondacks,  and  the 
Green  Mts.  are  obtained  from  the  cars  as  they  pass  N.  to  Milton  (three 
inns  in  the  town).  This  village  is  near  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Lamoille, 
7 M.  from  the  river’s  mouth.  The  river  descends  here  150  ft.  in  800  ft., 
and  affords  a water-power  for  the  Milton  lumber-mills.  The  train  crosses 
the  Lamoille  River  on  a high  bridge  450  ft.  long,  and  stops  at  the  station, 
Georgia  and  Fairfax.  Georgia  village  (Franklin  House),  is  3J  M.  from 
the  station,  and  Fairfax  (Fairfax  House)  is  4 M.  E.  of  the  station,  to 
which  it  has  a tri-daily  stage.  A small  Baptist  Theological  School  is 
located  at  Fairfax. 

St.  Albans  (*  Weldon  House , first-class;  American  House ; Tremont 
House)  is  a pretty  village  of  about  6,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  an  ele- 
vated plain  3 M.  from  Lake  Champlain.  Main  Street  is  the  principal 
thoroughfare,  and  has  several  good  commercial  buildings.  There  is  a 
neat  park  of  4 acres  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  on  wfiiose  sides  are  the 
hotels,  the  Franklin  County  buildings,  the  High  School,  and  several 
churches,  the  best  of  which  is  a Norman-towered  Episcopal  Church  built 
of  red  sandstone.  Back  of  this  is  the  large  Catholic  Church  and  the 
Convent  of  Notre  Dame.  The  offices  of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R. 
occupy  the  spacious  and  imposing  building  at  the  station.  In  this 
vicinity  are  the  immense  repair  and  car-shops  of  the  Vermont  Central, 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Route  29.  205 


occupying  over  half  a mile  of  buildings,  and  employing  several  hundred 
skilful  workmen.  These  works  are  the  largest  of  the  kind  in  New 
England,  and  have  turned  out  many  locomotives  and  cars.  The  village 
has  3 banks,  2 weeklies  and  a daily  newspaper  (besides  a weekly 
French  paper),  and  5 churches.  Tuesday  is  its  market  day,  when  the 
farmers  from  Franklin  Co.  congregate  in  the  streets,  and  great  quantities 
of  dairy  products  are  sold.  The  quotations  of  butter  and  cheese  at  St. 
Albans  affect  the  market  throughout  the  Eastern  States,  and  vast  quanti- 
ties of  these  products  are  shipped  in  ice-cars  to  the  N.  Atlantic  cities 
(mostly  to  Boston).  Between  1850  and  1865  St.  Albans  sent  away 
33,603,044  pounds  of  butter,  and  16,628,097  pounds  of  cheese,  having  a 
value  of  nearly  $12,000,000.  N.  of  St.  Albans  are  quarries  of  calico- 
stone  and  variegated  marble,  while  a good  sulphur-spring  (appertaining 
to  the  Weldon  House)  is  in  the  environs. 

“ St.  Albans  is  a place  in  the  midst  of  greater  variety  of  scenic  beauty 
than  any  other  that  I remember  in  America.  ” (Beecher.  ) Bellevue  Hill , 
2 M.  S.  W.  from  the  station,  and  Aldis  Hill , 1 M.  N.  E.  of  the  village, 
are  easy  of  ascent,  and  command  lovely  views.  * Bellevue  is  1,300  ft. 
above  the  lake,  and  about  900  ft.  above  the  village.  It  overlooks  the  vil- 
lage and  the  rich  plains  of  Franklin  Co.,  strewn  with  villages,  while  a 
broad  expanse  of  Lake  Champlain  is  spread  out  in  the  W.,  the  view  ex- 
tending over  Grand  Isle  to  the  New  York  shore.  In  the  S.  W.  the 
Adirondacks  rise,  “ not  in  chains  or  single  peaks,  but  in  vast  broods,  a 
promiscuous  multitude  of  forest-clothed  mountains.  In  the  N.  is  scooped 
out,  in  mighty  lines,  the  valley  of  St.  Lawrence  ; and  in  clear  days,  the 
eye  may  spy  the  faint  glimmer  of  Montreal.”  (H.  W.  Beecher.)  The 
Missisquoi  valley  is  near,  in  the  N.,  and  Jay  Peak  lies  to  the  E.,  from 
which  the  great  line  of  the  Green  Mts.  stretches  away  to  the  S.,  and 
Mount  Mansfield  is  plainly  visible.  To  the  S.  is  the  fertile  Lamoille 
valley,  running  through  Fairfax  and  Milton.  Aldis  Hill  is  only  500  ft. 
high,  and  is  easily  ascended.  Its  view,  though  less  extensive  than  that 
from  Bellevue,  is  of  rare  beauty. 

3 M.  W.  of  the  village  is  St.  Albans  Bay  (Lake  View  House),  a small  shore 
hamlet,  from  which  steamers  run  across  the  Lake  to  Plattsburg,  starting  early  in 
the  morning,  4 times  weekly.  (Fare,  $ 1.00.) 

Stages  run  E.  to  Fairfield  (7  M.)  and  Bakersfield  (16  M.). 

St.  Albans  was  the  scene  of  great  excitement  during  the  Canadian  rebellion  in 
1837,  and  several  raiding  parties  (of  refugees)  crossed  the  border  from  this  vicinity. 
In  October,  1864,  several  strangers  boarded  at  the  hotels  for  a few  days,  and 
learned  the  habits  of  the  people.  When  the  bells  rang  at  3 o’clock,  on  the  19th 
of  Oct.,  these  men  entered  the  banks  in  parties,  and  robbed  them  of  their  funds, 
while  others  of  the  band  arrested  every  citizen  on  the  street.  The  robbers  were 
22  in  number,  dressed  in  plain  clothing  and  armed  with  revolvers,  and,  having 
secured  what  money  they  could,  they  stole  a number  of  horses  and  fled,  closely 
pursued  by  the  citizens.  During  the  firing  which  took  place  in  the  streets,  one 
citizen  was  killed  and  several  wounded.  The  plundering  party  (which  was  com- 
posed of  escaped  rebel  prisoners)  reached  Canada  with  $208,000  in  money,  $80,000 
of  which  was  returned  to  the  banks  by  the  British  government.  In  June,  1866, 


20G  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


1,200  Fenians  from  the  cities  of  the  coast  marched  from  this  place  into  Canada, 
and  plundered  a village.  The  provisions  of  this  party  soon  gave  out,  and  they 
returned  to  St.  Albans,  where  they  were  disarmed  by  1,000  U.  S.  troops,  who 
were  encamped  on  the  village  Park  for  2 weeks. 

St.  Albans  to  Richford. 

The  East  Division  of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  to  Rich- 
ford  in  1 J - 2 hours.  Near  the  station  Sheldon  Springs  (about  10  M. 
out)  are  several  mineral  springs.  The  famous  Missisquoi  Spring  (*  Mis- 
sisquoi  Hotel)  is  alkaline  in  character,  and  has  no  distinctive  taste,  but 
has  proved  very  efficacious  in  cutaneous  diseases.  Within  the  space  of 
an  acre,  near  the  palatial  hotel,  are  13  mineral  springs,  of  varying  prop- 
erties, arising  through  a vein  of  fine  fuller’s  earth.  One  of  these  springs 
is  cathartic,  and  is  used  in  cases  of  dyspepsia  and  liver  complaints.  In 
the  year  1868,  354,000  quart  bottles  of  Missisquoi  water  were  sent  away, 
and  in  4 months  of  the  same  year  40,000  bottles  were  sent  from  the  Ver- 
mont Spring.  Dunton’s  Hill  is  a favorite  resort,  2 M.  from  the  Missisquoi 
House,  the  Sheldon  Spring  is  1 M.  S.  W.,  and  the  Central  Spring  (in 
Sheldon  village)  is  2 - 3 M.  to  the  E. 

The  Vermont  Spring  waters  are  mostly  bottled  and  sent  away,  for  the 
cure  of  diseases  of  the  skin,  cancer,  &c.  It  is  about  2 M.  from  the  Mis- 
sisquoi, and  there  are  numerous  other  mineral  springs,  differing  in  their 
properties,  about  the  village.  The  Continental,  Central,  and  Excelsior 
are  among  the  most  noted,  while  Sheldon  Spring , near  the  Missisquoi 
Falls,  has  long  been  visited.  The  * Congress  Hall  Hotel,  located  near 
the  latter  spring,  is  a large  and  first-class  house.  The  water  flows  at  the 
rate  of  14,000  gallons  a day,  and  contains  a large  amount  of  carbonate  of 
soda  with  potash.  “ It  is  a very  unusual  alkaline,  saline  water,  con- 
taining more  silicic  acid  in  solution  than  any  on  record.  The  presence  of 
so  much  crenic  acid  is  also  remarkable,  and,  with  the  iron  and  magnesia, 
adds  to  the  valuable  constituents.”  (Dr.  Hayes.)  The  hot  and  cold 
baths  (in  convenient  bath-houses)  work  wonderful  cures  in  cases  of  rheu- 
matism, erysipelas  and  skin  diseases,  cancers  and  chronic  ailments.  From 
Bunion's  Hill  (1  M.  from  Congress  Hall)  a vast  panoramic  view  of  the 
Green  Mts.  is  obtained,  while  the  silver  waters  of  Lake  Champlain,  in  the 
W.,  are  overlooked  by  the  blue  Adironacks.  Considerable  tracts  of 
Lower  Canada  are  included  in  this  view,  which  is  terminated  on  the  N. 
by  the  spires  of  Montreal.  The  Missisquoi  River  falls  119  ft.  near  Shel- 
don Spring.  At  Sheldon  village  (Central  House),  2 M.  E.,  there  are 
many  hotels  and  boarding-houses.  Here  is  the  Central  Spring,  which, 
besides  carbonates  of  lime,  magnesia,  iron,  soda,  and  potassa,  and  sulphate 
of  lime,  contains  the  valuable  element  of  phosphoric  acid.  It  cures 
cutaneous  and  pulmonary  affections,  dyspepsia,  rheumatism,  &c. 

The  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  will  cross  the  Missisquoi  Valley 
R.  R.  at  Sheldon. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


Routed.  207 


The  line  follows  the  rich  valley  through  several  farming  and  dairy 
towns,  passing  the  stations,  E.  Franklin , Enosburg  Falls , Enosburg,  and 
E.  Berkshire , to  Richford  (American  House),  a thinly  populated  town, 
on  whose  S.  E.  corner  Jay  Peak  rises  to  an  altitude  of  over  4,000  ft. 

A railroad  is  to  be  built  from  Richford  N.  W.  through  St.  Armand,  Dunham, 
and  Notre  Dame  des  Anges,  to  W.  Farnham,  in  the  Province  of  Quebec,  and  on 
the  N.  Division  of  the  Vermont  Central  R.  R. 


Soon  after  leaving  St.  Albans,  the  main  line  passes  Swanton  Junction , 
where  a railroad  diverges  to  Rouse’s  Point  and  Ogdensburg. 

This  line  passes  through  Swanton  (Central  House),  a pretty  village  with  a 
Soldiers’  Monument  on  its  Green,  consisting  of  a statue  (in  Vermont  marble)  of 
the  Goddess  of  Liberty  on  a pedestal  of  gray  Isle  La  Motte  marble.  Swanton 
was  settled  by  the  French  in  1750,  but  they  were  crowded  out  within  a half-cen- 
tury. Much  marble,  black,  white,  and  red  variegated,  is  quarried  in  this  town. 
After  crossing  Missisquoi  Bay  on  a trestle-bridge,  the  train  stops  at  Alburgh. 
Springs  (*  Alburgh  Springs  House),  whose  mineral  waters  are  much  used  for 
cutaneous  complaints.  The  drives  on  the  lake  shore  are  very  pleasant,  and  fish- 
ing and  boating  are  favorite  summer  amusements.  The  j>eninsula  of  Alburgh  was 
granted  by  the  King  of  France,  as  a feudal  seigniory,  to  Councillor  Foucault,  un- 
der whose  orders  it  was  settled  in  1731.  It  was  occupied  by  loyalist  refugees  late 
in  the  Revolutionary  Era,  and  in  1837  was  one  of  the  frontier  towns  from  which 
the  insurgents  in  the  “ Patriot  War”  made  their  raids  into  Canada. 

Passing  the  stations,  Alburgh  and  W.  Alburgh,  the  line  crosses  Lake  Champlain 
at  its  N.  end  on  a long  trestle-bridge.  Fort  Montgomery  is  seen  on  the  r.,  com- 
manding the  Richelieu  River.  After  the  works  on  this  fort  had  gone  on  for  some 
time,  it  was  discovered  to  be  in  British  territory,  but  a generous  change  of  boun- 
dary gave  the  land  to  the  United  States,  and  the  work'  was  completed.  On  the  1. 
Isle  La  Motte  may  be  seen  far  down  the  lake. 

Rouse’s  Point  (New  York)  is  now  reached.  From  this  point  the  line  runs 
W.  through  the  Chateaugay  Woods,  passing  Malone  and  Potsdam,  to  Ogdensburg, 
406  M.  from  Boston  and  141  M.  from  St.  Albans.  Another  railroad  runs  N.  on 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Richelieu  River,  to  St.  John’s  (23  M.).  The  great  Lake  Cham- 
plain steamers  leave  Rouse’s  Point  twice  daily  (in  summer)  for  Whitehall. 

After  passing  Swanton  Junction  and  E.  Swanton,  the  train  on  the  main 
line  stops  at  Highgate  Springs  (*  Franklin  House).  The  hotel  is  on  one 
side  of  the  track,  and  the  spring-house  on  the  other.  The  spring  is  alka- 
line, containing  chloride  of  sodium,  carbonate  of  soda,  and  sulphate  of 
soda.  E.  of  the  Springs  is  the  broad  and  beautiful  Missisquoi  Bay  (Missi 
Kisco  — much  water-fowl),  which  is  nearly  land-locked,  and  abounds  in 
fish.  The  Franklin  House  accommodates  160  guests,  at  $3.00  a day. 
2-3  M.  S.  E.  is  a considerable  village  at  Highgate  Falls,  on  the  Missis- 
quoi River.  The  alkaline  Champlain  Spring  is  located  here  (Champlain 
House,  Green  Mt.  House,  both  fronting  on  the  village  park),  and  is  con- 
sidered a specific  for  dyspepsia,  cutaneous  eruptions,  cancer,  and  con- 
sumption. Alburgh  Springs  on  the  W.  and  Missisquoi  Springs  on  the  S. 
E.,  are  within  easy  distance  of  Highgate.  Highgate  was  the  birthplace 


208  Route  29. 


BOSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


of  John  G.  Saxe,  whose  poems  of  humor  and  pathos  are  widely  known 
and  read. 

About  3 M.  beyond  Highgate,  the  train  leaves  the  United  States,  and 
enters  Missisquoi  County,  in  the  Anglo-Canadian  Province  of  Quebec. 
Stations,  St.  Armand,  Moore's,  and  Stanbridge,  on  the  plains  of  the  Rich- 
elieu River.  Stanbridge  is  a neat  village,  from  which  stages  run  to  E. 
Stanbridge  (3  M.)  and  Bradford.  As  the  line  passes  farther  out  on  the 
plains,  the  great,  isolated  mountains  of  Rougemont  and  Beloeil  are  seen  on 
the  r.  On  Beloeil  the  Bishop  of  Nancy  had  an  immense  cross  erected  in 
1843,  which  was  visible  for  many  leagues.  It  was  demolished  by  a storm 
in  1847.  Stations,  Des  Rivieres,  St.  Alexandre,  beyond  which  the  train 
passes  the  junction  of  the  Stanstead,  Shefford,  and  Chambly  Railroad, 
running  from  St.  Johns  E.  to  Waterloo,  43  M.  Stages  from  Waterloo  to 
Lake  Memphremagog  in  20  M.  The  line  now  crosses  the  Richelieu  River 
to  St.  Johns,  a quaint,  old-fashioned,  Norman-French  village  near  the 
head  of  the  Chambly  Rapids.  The  town  is  situated  on  a level  plain,  and 
is  connected  with  the  suburb  of  St.  Athanase  by  a fine  bridge  over  the 
Richelieu.  There  is  good  fishing  by  boat  near  St.  Johns,  and  the  few  visi- 
tors who  stop  at  this  quiet  old  town  usually  ride  to  Chambly,  a pleasant 
village  near  the  confluence  of  the  Richelieu  and  Montreal  Rivers.  It  is 
12  M.  N.  of  St.  Johns  by  the  river-road,  and  is  on  a lake-like  expansion 
of  the  river,  called  Chambly  Basin.  The  Richelieu  flows  toward  the  N. 
E.  almost  parallel  with  the  St.  Lawrence  which  it  joins  at  Lake  St.  Peter, 
70  M.  distant. 

Chambly  was  fortified  by  the  French  in  1711,  and  in  1775  it  had  a strong  stone 
fort  built  by  the  British,  with  massive  towers  at  its  angles.  Large  supplies  were 
stored  here  ; but  the  commander  was  so  careless  that  the  fort  was  easily  taken  by 
the  Americans  in  October,  1775.  It  was  abandoned  on  the  advance  of  Burgoyne, 
having  first  been  stripped  of  its  stores,  and  has  since  served  (until  the  English 
military  evacuation  of  Canada)  as  an  exercising-ground  for  the  Montreal  garrison. 
In  the  crypt  of  the  Catholic  Church  is  buried  Be  Salaberry,  Seigneur  of  Chambly, 
who  commanded  the  Canadians  in  the  battle  of  Chateaugay  (War  of  1812),  when 
a large  invading  force  of  Americans  was  resisted  with  such  valor  and  success  that 
Be  Salaberry  ever  after  bore  the  title  of  “the  Canadian  Leonidas. ” 12  M.  from 
Chambly  is  Beloeil  Mt. 

Other  excursions  from  St.  J olins  are  to  Scotch  Mt.  (6  M.  over  a good  road),  which 
commands  a fine  view  of  the  Green  Mts.  and  the  border  Townships  ; and  to  the 
Chambly  Rapids  on  the  Richelieu. 

The  Marquis  of  Montcalm  built  a fort  at  St.  Johns,  which  was  strengthened  by 
Gov.  Carleton.  Benedict  Arnold’s  American  fleet  was  repulsed  in  an  attack  in 
1775,  but  the  fort  was  besieged  by  Gen.  Montgomery  in  September  of  the  same 
year,  and,  after  six  weeks  of  blockade  and  cannonade,  it  surrendered,  with  COO 
British  regulars  and  48  heavy  cannon.  The  American  garrison  evacuated  the  post 
on  the  advance  of  Gen.  Burgoyne. 

At  St.  Johns  the  train  moves  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way (Montreal  and  Rouse’s  Point  Division),  and  passes  through  the  fair 
and  fertile  plains  of  the  Parish  of  La  Prairie  to  St.  Lambert,  opposite 
Montreal.  The  St.  Lawrence  River  is  crossed  by  the  wonderful  * Victoria 
Bridge,  aUd  the  train  stops  at  Montreal  (see  Route  54). 


WEIRS. 


Route  30.  209 


30.  Boston  to  the  Franconia  Mts. 

By  the  Boston  and  Lowell  and  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroads. 
Parlor  cars  run  from  Boston  without  change  to  Plymouth.  Boston  to  Plymouth 
(123  M.)  in  5 hrs.  ; to  the  Twin  Mt.  House  (205  M.)  in  about  8 hrs.  The  branch 
road  which  runs  from  Wing  Road  station  to  Bethlehem  will  be  completed  to  the 
Twin  Mt.  House  by  July  1,  1873. 

The  train  leaves  the  Boston  and  Lowell  station  (PI.  3)  at  8,  or  8.30  A. 
M.,  and  passes  to  Concord  by  Route  29,  through  Lowell,  Nashua,  and 
Manchester.  (Trains  leaving  the  Boston  and  Maine  station,  at  7.30,  or  8, 
make  a connection  with  this  route  by  way  of  Manchester. ) 

After  leaving  Concord,  the  line  crosses  the  Merrimac,  and  passes  the 
stations,  E.  Concord , N.  Concord , Canterbury  (with  a large  Shaker  village 
4 M.  from  the  station),  Northjield , and  Tilton  (Dexter  House).  Tilton 
was  formerly  called  Sanbornton  Bridge,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  N.  H. 
Seminary  and  Female  College,  which  has  good  buildings  near  the  railroad. 

Stages  run  from  Tilton  to  Gilmanton  Centre  and  to  New  Hampton  (Waukeneto 
House),  12  M.  N.,  the  seat  of  a Free  Will  Baptist  Theological  School.  At  the 
head  of  Little  Bay,  near  Tilton,  was  the  largest  Indian  fortress  in  New  England, 
consisting  of  several  lines  of  intrenchments  faced  with  stone,  and  evidently  once 
palisaded.  Some  remnants  of  these  works  remain. 

The  line  now  passes  along  the  shores  of  Winnepesaukee  River,  Little 
Bay,  and  Great  Bay.  Stations,  Union  Village  and  Laconia  (Willard 
Hotel),  whose  factories  turn  out  yearly  1,500,000  yards  of  fancy  cloths, 
275,000  dozen  hose,  and  3-400  railroad  cars.  From  this  point  an  inter- 
esting excursion  may  be  made  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Belknap  (4J  M.  dis- 
tant), on  the  shore  of  the  lake.  From  this  commanding  peak  the  lake 
may  be  seen  throughout  nearly  its  entire  extent,  and  views  of  the  mts. 
beyond  and  of  the  pretty  village  of  Wolfboro  are  obtained.  Laconia  is 
on  the  shore  of  Lake  Winnesquam  (Great  Bay),  a picturesque  sheet  of 
water  on  the  1.  of  the  line.  After  leaving  Laconia,  the  line  passes  along 
Sanbornton  Bay  to  Lake  Village  (Lake  House),  which  has  several  large 
lumber-mills.  A small  steamer  runs  daily  (in  summer)  to  Alton  Bay. 
The  quiet  waters  of  Long  Bay  are  now  skirted,  on  the  r.  bank,  with  the 
peaks  of  Belknap  Mt.  beyond.  Station,  Weirs,  with  a fine  view  out  over 
Lake  Winnepesaukee.  Steamers  leave  this  point  for  the  villages  on  the 
lake  (see  Route  32),  and  N.  Conway  may  be  reached  by  crossing  to  Wolf- 
boro, and  taking  the  cars  on  Route  31.  Near  Weirs,  on  the  N.  shore  of 
the  outlet,  is  the  Endicott  Rock,  which  is  about  20  ft.  around,  and  is 
carved  with  the  initials  of  the  chiefs  of  the  colonial  survey  of  1632,  and 
with  the  words,  “ John  Endicut,  Gov.”  The  train  passes  N.,  with  the 
lake  on  the  r.,  to  Meredith  (Elm  House).  Stages  run  daily  from  Mere- 
dith to  Sandwich,  and  a railroad  route  has  been  surveyed,  and  is  to  be 
constructed  to  Conway. 

The  train  now  passes  Waukawan  Lake,  on  the  r.,  which  is  4 M.  long 

N 


210  Route  SO. 


PLYMOUTH. 


and  1-2  M.  broad.  Wankawan  is  a name  given  to  this  lake  by  the 
Indians,  and  now  used  by  summer  visitors,  though  the  rustics  who 
live  in  the  vicinity  call  it  Measley  Pond.  Long  Pond  is  now  passed, 
and  the  train  stops  at  Ashland  (Squam  Lake  House),  a small  factory- 
village  near  the  confluence  of  the  Squam  and  Pemigewasset  Rivers,  and  3 
M.  from  the  lovely  Squam  Lake  (see  Route  32).  This  is  in  the  ancient 
Episcopal  town  of  Holderness,  and  the  road  along  Squam  Lake  exhibits 
some  of  the  richest  scenery  in  the  country.  The  Pemigewasset  is  now 
crossed  near  Bridgewater  station,  and  its  valley  is  followed  to  Plymouth 
(*  Pemigewasset  House,  150  rooms,  a first-class  summer  hotel,  where  the 
midday  trains  stop  30  minutes  for  passengers  to  dine  ; Plymouth  House). 
Plymouth,  the  shire-town  of  Grafton  County,  is  a beautiful  village  in  the 
midst  of  attractive  scenery,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Pemigewasset  and 
Baker’s  Rivers.  It  has  a large  country  trade,  and  is  noted  for  its  manufac- 
ture of  fine  buckskin  gloves.  Walker’s  Hill  overlooks  the  village  and  valley, 
while  Mt.  Prospect  (4  M.  N.  E. ; carriage-road  to  the  summit)  commands 
an  extensive  prospect.  On  the  S.  is  the  valley  of  the  Pemigewasset 
(“  Place  of  crooked  pines  ”),  with  its  broad,  rich  intervales,  while  numer- 
ous well-known  peaks  extend  between  Monadnock  in  the  S.  W.  and 
Moosilauke  in  the  N.  W.  The  N.  is  filled  with  the  lofty  summits  of  the 
Franconia  and  the  White  Mts.,  prominent  among  which  is  Mt.  Lafayette. 
Osceola  and  White  Face  are  in  the  N.  E.,  and  just  below  the  Squam 
Range  in  the  E.  is  the  beautiful,  island-dotted  Squam  Lake.  To  the  S. 
E.  are  the  bright  waters  of  Winnepesaukee,  with  Mt.  Belknap  looking 
over  them.  Mt.  Prospect  is  2,963  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  possesses  several 
other  objects  of  interest,  — the  Miser’s  Cave,  the  Avalanche,  and  the  Cold 
and  Boiling  Springs. 

The  drive  around  Plymouth  Mt.  is  a favorite  excursion,  and  the  view 
from  its  summit  is  pleasant,  embracing  many  of  the  features  of  the  view 
from  Mt.  Prospect,  with  the  addition  of  Newfound  Lake.  2 M.  N.  of 
Plymouth  are  the  romantic  Livermore  Falls,  bearing  traces  of  volcanic 
agencies.  From  Plymouth  to  Squam  Lake  it  is  6 M. ; to  Newfound  Lake, 
9 M. ; to  Centre  Harbor,  12  M. 

Capt.  Baker,  of  Newbury,  with  a company  of  Mass.  Rangers,  attacked  an  Indian 
village  near  the  confluence  of  the  river  which  now  bears  his  name  with  the 
Pemigewasset  River.  After  killing  many  of  the  villagers,  the  Rangers  plundered 
the  place,  and  then  retreated,  being  vainly  attacked  afterwards  on  the  plains  of 
Bridgewater.  Plymouth  was  settled  in  1764.  The  house  still  stands  here  (now  a 
carriage-shop  near  the  hotel)  in  which  Daniel  Webster  made  his  first  plea  before  a 
jury.  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  died  in  this  village  May  19,  1864.  A remarkable 
balloon  voyage  was  commenced  at  Plymouth  in  September,  1872,  by  an  aeronaut 
and  a journalist,  who  ascended  into  mid-air,  passed  over  the  White  Mts.  at  the 
rate  of  50  M.  an  hour,  and  landed  at  Sayabec,  on  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  having 
travelled  oyer  500  M.  in  13  hrs. 

The  finest  avenue  of  approach  to  the  Franconia  Mts.  is  by  stage  from  Plymouth 
to  the  Profile  House  (29  M.  ; fare  $4.00).  The  road  runs  up  the  Pemigewasset 
valley,  and  commands  fine  views  as  the  mts.  are  approached.  Campton  and 
Thornton  lie  on  this  stage-road  (see  Route  34,  ad  Jinem). 


MOOSILAUKE  MT. 


Route  30.  211 


After  leaving  Plymouth,  the  railroad  follows  the  valley  of  Baker’s 
River  for  20  M.  Station,  Rumney  (Stinson  House),  S.  of  Stinson’s  Mt. 
and  Pond,  which  were  named  in  memory  of  a hunter  who  was  killed  here 
by  the  Indians.  The  village  is  nearly  1 M.  from  the  station.  Saw-mills, 
tanneries,  and  cliarcoal-works  abound  in  the  town.  Stations,  W.  Rum- 
ney and  Wentworth  (Union  Hotel),  a village  on  fair  intervales,  and  sur- 
rounded by  high  hills.  Carr’s  Mt.  is  on  the  E. , and  Cuba  Mt.  on  the  W. 
Station,  Warren  (Moosilauke  House,  $ 2 - 2.50  a day,  $ 10  - 15.00  a week). 
Moosilauke  Mt.  is  5 M.  from  this  village  (9  M.  to  the  summit  by  a good 
carriage-road),  and  on  its  top  is  the  Summit  House  ($4.00  a day). 

During  the  summer,  when  carriages  run  frequently  from  the  village 
hotel  to  the  Summit  House,  the  fare  for  each  passenger  (including  tolls)  is 
$ 4.50.  From  its  isolated  position  and  great  height  (4,600  ft.),  this  peak 
commands  a grand  and  unique  * view.  In  the  S.  are  the  hill  towns  of 
Grafton  County,  with  numerous  prominent  and  well-known  peaks  rising 
over  them.  Beyond  Owl’s  Head,  on  the  W.,  considerable  portions  of  the 
Green  Mts.  may  be  seen  on  a clear  day.  In  the  N.  W.  is  part  of  the 
Connecticut  valley,  and  one  or  two  Canadian  peaks  are  seen  in  the 
remote  N.,  while  nearer  at  hand  are  the  Pemigewasset  Mts.  A noble 
panorama  of  mts.  extends  from  Sugar  Loaf  (W.  of  N.)  to  the  white  peak 
of  Chocorua  (S.  of  E.),  embracing  the  chief  summits  of  the  White  and 
Franconia  Ranges.  On  the  S.  E.  is  the  shining  surface  of  Lake  Winne- 
pesaukee,  and  in  the  same  direction  some  portion  of  the  State  of  Maine  is 
visible. 

From  Peaked  Hill,  near  the  village  hotel,  a good  view  of  Moosilauke  is 
obtained.  Carr’s  Mt.,  Webster’s  Slide,  and  Owl’s  Head  are  also  in  War- 
ren, while  on  Hurricane  Brook  are  numerous  picturesque  cascades,  known 
as  Fairy,  Rocky,  Oak,  Wolf  Head,  Watenome,  and  Hurricane  Falls. 
Diana’s  Wash-Bowl  is  a sequestered  basin  on  the  same  creek. 

Station,  E.  Haverhill,  beyond  which  the  line  traverses  the  glen  of  the 
Oliverian  Brook,  with  Webster’s  Slide  Mt.  on  the  1.  and  the  precipitous  sides 
of  Owl’s  Head  on  the  r.  Station,  Haverhill  (Exchange  House),  a pretty 
village  on  a hill  near  the  track,  with  the  Grafton  County  buildings.  J ust 
across  the  river  is  the  village  of  Newbury  (see  Route  24),  which  may  be 
seen  from  the  1.  as  the  train  skirts  the  rich  intervales,  and  passes  to  N. 
Haverhill,  a small  village  near  the  Ox  Bow  Bend  of  the  river.  Stations, 
Woodsville,  and  Wells  River  (Coosuck  House),  where  the  train  crosses 
the  Connecticut,  and  makes  a connection  with  the  Conn,  and  Passumpsic 
Railroad  (Route  24).  The  river  is  recrossed  on  the  same  bridge,  and  the 
line  now  runs  by  Woodsville  up  the  valley  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River. 
Stations,  Bath,  a small  village  on  the  Connecticut,  E.  of  which  the  Wild 
Ammonoosuc  joins  the  Ammonoosuc ; Lisbon  (small  inn)  ; N.  Lisbon, 
and  Littleton  (Thayer’s  Hotel;  Union  House;  and  several  boarding- 


212  Route  SO. 


LANCASTER. 


houses,  the  best  of  which  is  the  * Oak  Hill  House,  on  the  high  hill  over 
the  village,  accommodating  70  guests,  at  $ 10-15.00  a week).  Littleton 
was  chartered  in  1764,  under  the  name  of  Chiswick,  and  has  15  M.  of 
territory  on  the  Connecticut  River.  It  has  2,400  inhabitants,  2 banks,  3 
churches,  several  manufactories,  and  a weekly  paper  called  “ The  White 
Mountain  Republic.”  From  the  hills  in  the  vicinity,  fine  panoramic 
views  of  the  White  and  Franconia  Mts.  may  be  obtained.  Stages  leave 
semidaily  for  the  Profile  House  (see  Route  34),  11  M.  distant. 

Stations,  Wing  Road,  where  trains  connect  on  a branch  railroad  to 
Bethlehem  and  the  Twin  Mt.  House  (12  M.  distant) ; Whitejield  (White- 
field  House),  a lumber-working  town  • and  Dalton  (Sumner  House),  a 
jjleasant  village  near  the  Connecticut.  Stations,  S.  Lancaster , and  Lan- 
caster (*  Lancaster  House,  120  - 130  guests,  at  $ 3 - 3.50  a day ; American 
House),  a beautiful  village  on  a broad  plain  near  the  river.  It  has  about 
2,200  inhabitants,  2 weekly  papers,  and  5 churches.  This  is  a favorite 
summer-resort,  “ and  in  the  combined  charm,  for  walks  or  rides,  of 
meadow  and  river,  — the  charm,  not  of  wildness,  but  of  cheerful  bright- 
ness and  beneficence,  — Lancaster  is  unrivalled.”  (Starr  King.)  Steb- 
bins ’ Hill , near  the  village,  commands  an  extensive  view  ; while  the  drive 
around  Mt.  Prospect  (2-  3 hrs.)  is  much  esteemed.  The  rapids  on  the 
Connecticut  are  reached  by  a fine  road  over  the  intervales  (6  M.).  The 
riverward  roads  are  level  and  smooth,  revealing  fine  distant  views,  the 
best  of  which  is  obtained  from  the  Lunenburg  Hills,  beyond  the  river  in 
Vermont.  To  the  E.  and  N.  E.  of  Lancaster  are  the  dark  and  unexplored 
Pilot  Mts.,  whose  main  peak  is  sometimes  ascended  by  a path  leading 
from  the  hamlet  of  Lost  Nation,  yielding  a broad  view  over  the  upper 
Cods  country  and  the  mountain-walls  to  the  S.  and  S.  E.  Israel’s  River 
unites  with  the  Connecticut  near  the  village,  after  flowing  down  a pictur- 
esque valley  from  its  source  near  Mt.  Madison.  Sir  Charles  Dilke  says 
that  “ the  world  can  show  few  scenes  more  winning  than  Israel’s  River 
valley,  in  the  White  Mts.  of  N.  H.,  or  N.  Conway,  in  the  S.  slopes  of  the 
same  chain.”  The  stream  is  named  for  an  old  hunter  who  was  one  of  the 
pioneers  of  the  Cods  country,  but  the  melodious  Indian  name  is  preferable, 
— Singrawack,  “the  foaming  stream  of  the  white  rock.”  “Grand  combi- 
nations of  the  river  and  its  meadows  with  the  Franconia  Range  and  the  vast 
White  Mt.  wall  are  to  be  had  in  short  drives  beyond  the  river,  upon  the 
Lunenburg  Hills.”  Stages  run  from  Lancaster  twice  daily  (7  M.)  to  the 
Waumbek  House , on  Jefferson  Hill,  famed  for  its  panoramic  view  of  the 
White,  Franconia,  and  Green  Mts.  (see  Route  33). 

Beyond  Lancaster  the  railroad  follows  the  Connecticut  River  for  10  M. , 
and  connects  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  (Route  40)  at  Northumber- 
land. 


ROCHESTER. 


Route  31.  213 


31.  Boston  to  the  White  Mountains. 

By  the  Eastern  Railroad  to  N.  Conway  (137  M.)  in  5 hrs.,  fare,  $5.00  ; to  the 
Crawford  House  (162  M.)  in  12  hrs.,  fare,  $8.50  ; to  the  Glen  House  (157  M.)  in 
11  hrs.,  fare  $7.00.  This  is  the  quickest  and  nearest  route  to  the  White  Mts.,  and 
runs  two  Pullman  express  trains  daily  in  summer. 

The  train  leaves  the  Eastern  station  in  Boston  (on  Causeway,  at  the  foot 
of  Friend  St.),  and  passes  out  over  the  Charles  River.  Boston  to  Conway 
Junction , see  Route  37  (the  principal  stations  are  Chelsea,  Lynn,  Salem, 
Ipswich,  Newburyport,  Hampton,  and  Portsmouth).  Beyond  Conway 
Junction  the  train  passes  the  stations,  S.  Berwick , Salmon  Falls,  and 
Great  Falls.  At  the  latter  village  are  extensive  cotton-factories,  employ- 
ing 3,000  hands,  and  consuming  7,700  bales  of  cotton  yearly.  Station, 
Rochester  ( Dodge's  Hotel ; Mansion  House),  a village  on  Norway  Plains, 
with  several  factories  near  the  falls  on  the  Cocheco  River.  The  town  has 
3 banks,  7 churches,  and  over  4,000  inhabitants.  Over  2,000,000  yards 
of  flannel  are  made  here  yearly,  with  400,000  pairs  of  shoes,  100,000  pairs 
of  blankets,  and  2,000,000  bricks.  Rochester  was  settled  in  1728,  and  its 
people  kept  constant  vigil  for  nearly  half  a century,  being  often  attacked 
by  the  Indians.  John  P.  Hale,  a prominent  leader  in  the  antislavery 
movement,  and  U.  S.  Senator  for  16  years,  was  born  here  in  1806. 

The  Portland  and  Rochester  Railroad  runs  from  this  village  across  the  centre  of 
York  County  to  Portland  (52  M.  ; fare,  $1.55).  Stations,  E.  Rochester,  E.  Leba- 
non, and  Springvale,  a village  in  Sanford,  which  was  bought  of  the  Sagamore 
Fluellen  in  1661.  Stages  run  from  Springvale  to  Shapleigh,  and  to  Newfleld, 
where  the  Mt.  Eagle  Tripoli  is  made,  and  large  carriage-factories  are  located. 
Station,  Alfred  ( Central  House;  County  House),  a pleasant  village  on  a level 
plain,  containing  the  York  County  buildings,  and  named  in  honor  of  King  Alfred 
of  England.  The  line  next  crosses  the  towns  of  Waterborough  and  Hollis,  and 
the  Saco  River.  Station,  Buxton  (Berry’s  Hotel),  the  old  Narragansett,  No.  1, 
which  was  named  in  compliment  to  Paul  Coffin,  its  pastor  for  40  years,  who^e 
ancestors  came  from  Buxton  in  England.  This  town  was  one  of  the  7 granted  by 
Mass,  to  the  victorious  soldiers  of  King  Philip’s  War,  and  9 more  were  granted 
to  the  veterans  of  the  Canada  War  of  1695.  The  soldiers  were  thus  compensated 
for  their  labors,  and  at  the  same  time  the  distressed  and  war-swept  settlements 
on  the  Maine  coast  were  shielded  by  a double  tier  of  towns  inhabited  by  hardy 
and  fearless  veterans.  Buxton  has  4 villages,  with  extensive  lumber-mills.  Stages 
run  to  Cornish  and  Limington.  Station,  Gorham  (Clement  House),  the  7th  town 
granted  to  the  veterans  of  1675,  and  named  for  Capt.  Gorham,  whose  company 
lost  36  killed  and  41  wounded  at  the  Narragansett  Fort  Fight.  Station,  Sacarappa, 
a manufacturing  village  which  for  50  years  sent  vast  amounts  of  lumber  to  Port- 
land and  Havana.  The  Cumberland  Mills  turn  out  $1,000,000  worth  of  paper 
annually.  After  running  across  the  populous  town  of  Westbrook,  the  train  ap- 
proaches Bramhall  Hill,  and  passes  into  the  terminal  station  at  Portland. 

After  leaving  Rochester,  the  White  Mt.  train  passes  the  stations,  Hayes’ 
Crossing  and  S.  Milton,  and  stops  at  Milton  (Franklin  House),  a quiet 
farming  town  near  the  Salmon  Falls  River.  Mt.  Teneriffe  is  seen  on  the 
1.  Station,  Union  (Union  House),  beyond  which  Copple  Crown  Mt.  is 
seen  in  the  W. 


214  Route  SI. 


CONWAY. 


From  Wolf  boro  Junction  a branch  railroad  runs  (in  12  M.)  to  Wolfboro,  on 
Lake  Winnepesaukee  (see  Route  32),  in  the  latter  part  of  its  course  skirting 
Smith’s  Pond,  and  stopping  near  the  wharf  of  the  Lake  steamers. 

Stations,  Wakefield , E . Wakefield , and  N.  Wakefield,  to  the  E.  of 
which  is  Lake  Newichawannock  (East  Pond),  which  is  3 M.  long  and  1 

M.  wide.  Stations,  Ossipee  and  Ossipee  Centre  (two  inns),  the  shire' 
town  of  Carroll  Comity.  A glimpse  of  Ossipee  Lake  is  gained  on  the  r., 
beyond  this  station,  with  Green  Mt.  on  its  farther  shore.  Running  N. 
with  Ossipee  Mt.  on  the  1.,  the  train  reaches  W.  Ossipee  (*  Banks’  Hotel), 
from  which  fine  excursions  may  be  made  to  Ossipee  Lake,  Sandwich 
Notch,  and  Mt.  Chocorua  (see  page  220).  Madison  Plains  are  next 
traversed,  with  the  broad  sheet  of  Six  Mile  Pond  glittering  among  the 
forests  on  the  r.  and  Legion  Mt.  far  beyond.  On  the  1.  is  the  weird  peak 
of  Chocorua,  to  which  Starr  King  has  applied  the  adjectives,  “ gallant, 
haughty,  rugged,  torn,  proud-peaked,  desolate,  proud  and  lonely,  tired.” 

Stations,  Madison  and  Conway  (*  Conway  House;  Pequawket  House; 
Grove  House).  This  village  is  situated  on  rich  level  land,  and  has  many 
charming  rural  scenes  along  the  winding  Saco.  From  its  air  of  tran- 
quillity and  pastoral  seclusion,  this  hamlet  of  Chatauque  is  preferred  to 

N.  Conway  by  those  who  seek  quiet  and  rest,  and  are  regardless  of  bril- 
liant society.  Excursions  are  made  from  this  point  to  * Chocorua  Lake, 
8-9  M.  distant,  under  the  mt.  of  the  same  name;  to  Conway  Centre  and 
Fryeburg  (see  Route  39),  in  the  N.  E. ; to  Chatham,  by  the  long,  strag- 
gling village  of  Conway  Street,  between  the  Green  Hills  and  the  Maine 
border;  to  Champney’s  Falls,  ascending  the  Swift  River  valley  to  the  W. ; 
and  to  the  Cathedral,  Echo  Lake,  and  Diana’s  Bath.  The  last-named 
places  are  as  near  to  Chatauque  as  to  N.  Conway,  and  the  fording  of  the 
river  is  avoided.  There  are  fine  views  of  the  White  Mts.  from  this  vil- 
lage, with  the  Mote  Mts.  looming  in  the  N.  W.  Beyond  Conway  the 
train  runs  N.  for  5 M.,  much  of  the  way  being  over  embankments  and 
trestles  on  the  Saco  intervales.  The  Mote  Mts.  are  approached  on  the  1., 
and  Kiarsarge  appears  on  the  r.  Soon  after  crossing  the  Saco,  a white 
village  is  seen  on  the  hillside,  the  tower  of  the  Kiarsarge  House  is  ap- 
proached on  the  r.,  and  the  train  stops  at  the  new  and  elegant  station 
building  at  N.  Conway  (see  Route  33). 

THE  SWITZERLAND  OF  AMERICA. 

Route  32.  —Lake  Winnepesaukee  and  the  Sandwich  Mountains. 

33.  — The  White  Mountains  and  North  Conway. 

34.  — The  Franconia  Mountains  and  the  Pemigewasset 

Valley. 

35.  — The  Percy  Peaks,  Dixville,  and  Lake  Umbagog. 


LAKE  WINNEPESAUKEE. 


Route  32.  215 


32  Lake  Winnepesaukee  and  the  Sandwich  Mountains. 

From  Boston  to  the  Lake  : (a)  By  Routes  29  and  30,  through  Lowell  and  Con- 
cord to  Weirs,  whence  the  steamer  “Lady  of  the  Lake  ” runs  to  Centre  Harbor 
and  Wolfboro.  Boston  to  Weirs,  105  M. 

(b)  By  Route  38,  through  Lawrence  and  Dover  to  Alton  Bay,  whence  the 
steamer  “ Mt.  Washington  ” runs  to  Wolfboro,  Centre  Harbor,  and  Meredith. 
Boston  to  Alton  Bay,  96  M. 

(c)  By  Routes  31  and  37,  through  Salem  and  Portsmouth  to  Wolfboro,  where 
both  the  steamers  touch,  and  from  which  all  the  lake-villages  maybe  visited.  Bos- 
ton to  Wolfboro,  106  M.  (in  hrs.  by  the  Pullman  express  train  in  the  morning). 

Lake  Winnepesaukee  is  in  the  counties  of  Carroll  and  Belknap,  in  the 
State  of  N.  H.,  and  is  25  M.  long  by  1-7  M.  wide,  containing  69  square 
miles.  It  is  472  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  its  waters  of  crystalline  purity  re- 
flect the  shadows  of  several  bold  mountains,  and  surround  nearly  300 
islands,  great  and  small.  8 towns  rest  around  it,  having  (in  1870)  an 
aggregate  population  of  14,000  on  about  200  square  miles  of  territory; 
and  but  few  and  small  are  the  villages  along  the  curiously  indented  shores. 
The  waters  of  the  lake  are  discharged  by  the  Winnepesaukee  River, 
which  unites  with  the  Pemigewasset  to  form  the  Merrimac,  and  passes 
into  the  ocean  at  Newburyport.  Winnepesaukee  is  an  ancient  Indian 
word  which  is  popularly  supposed  to  mean  “ The  Smile  of  the  Great 
Spirit,”  although  some  interpret  it  as  “ Pleasant  Water  in  a High  Place.” 

“ There  may  be  lakes  in  Tyrol  and  Switzerland  which,  in  particular  respects, 
exceed  the  charms  of  any  in  the  Western  world.  But  in  that  wedding  of  the 
land  with  the  water,  in  which  one  is  perpetually  approaching  and  retreating  from 
the  other,  and  each  transforms  itself  into  a thousand  figures  for  an  endless  dance 
of  grace  and  beauty,  till  a countless  multitude  of  shapes  are  arranged  into  perfect 
ease  and  freedom,  of  almost  musical  motion,  nothing  can  be  held  to  surpass,  if  to 
match,  our  Winnepesaukee.”  (Bartol.) 

“I  have  been  something  of  a traveller  in  our  own  country, — though  far  less 
than  I could  wish,  — and  in  Europe  have  seen  all  that  is  most  attractive,  from 
the  Highlands  of  Scotland  to  the  Golden  Horn  of  Constantinople,  from  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Hartz  Mountains  to  the  Fountain  of  Yaucluse  ; but  my  eye  has  yet  to 
rest  on  a lovelier  scene  than  that  which  smiles  around  you  as  you  sail  from  Weirs 
Landing  to  Centre  Harbor.”  (Edward  Everett.) 

“ Looking  up  to  the  broken  sides  of  the  Ossipee  Mts.  that  are  rooted  in  the 
lake,  over  which  huge  shadows  loiter  ; or  back  to  the  twin  Belknap  hills,  which 
appeal  to  softer  sensibilities  with  their  verdured  symmetry ; or  farther  down, 
upon  the  charming  succession  of  mounds  that  hem  the  shores  near  Wolfboro  ; or 
northward,  where  distant  Chocorua  lifts  his  bleached  head,  so  tenderly  touched 
now  with  gray  and  gold,  to  defy  the  hottest  sunlight,  as  he  has  defied  for  ages 
the  lightning  and  the  storm,  — does  it  not  seem  as  though  the  passage  of  the 
Psalms  is  fulfilled  before  our  eyes,  — ‘ Out  of  the  perfection  of  beauty  God  hath 
shined’?”  (Thomas  Starr  King). 

The  poetry  of  Percival  and  of  Whittier  has  often  been  inspired  by  Winnepe- 
saukee. (See  Whittier’s  poems,  “The  Lake-side,”  “Summer  by  the  Lake,”  and 
others.) 

The  steamer  runs  E.  from  Weirs,  with  Meredith  Bay  opening  to  the  N. 
Mount  Belknap  is  seen  to  the  S.,  and  Ossipee  Mt.  looms  up  across  the 
lake  in  front.  After  passing  Governor’s  Island  on  the  S. , the  boat  turns 
to  the  N.  through  a strait  between  Bear  Island  (3  M.  from  Weirs)  and  the 


216  Route  32. 


CENTRE  HARBOR. 


mainland.  Just  after  passing  this  island,  and  when  within  3 M.  of 
Centre  Harbor,  the  finest  * view  on  the  lake  is  obtained.  The  whole  line 
of  the  Sandwich  Mts.  is  seen  in  the  N.,  between  Ossipee  on  the  r.  and 
Red  Hill  on  the  1.,  with  Whiteface  looming  foremost,  and  u the  haughty 
Chocorua  ” leagues  away  to  the  N.  E. 

Centre  Harbor  is  10  M.  from  Weirs.  It  has  the*Senter  House,  $3.00  a 
day;  the  Moulton  House,  $10-14.00  a week ; and  numerous  pleasant  boarding- 
houses, among  which  are  those  of  R.  L.  Coe,  A.  M.  Graves,  the  Wentworths,  and 
Rev.  Almon  Benson.  The  prices  at  these  houses  range  from  $7.00  to  $14.00  a 
week.  Kelsea’s  is  on  the  far-viewing  Centre  Harbor  Hill,  over  a mile  from  the 
village,  while  under  Red  Hill  and  near  Squam  Lake  is  Sturtevant’s  (accommodat- 
ing about  30). 

Steamers  (time-table  of  1872)  leave  Centre  Harbor  4 times  daily.  The  “ Lady 
of  the  Lake  ” leaves  at  7.30  A.  M.,  and  at  1 P.  M.  Fare  to  Wolfboro,  75  c. 

Stages  leave  daily  (in  summer)  for  Moultonboro,  Sandwich,  Tamworth,  Madi- 
son, and  W.  Ossipee. 

Centre  Harbor  is  a small  hamlet  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  3 northern 
bays  of  the  lake.  It  was  settled  by  Col.  Senter  in  1757,  and  was  named 
in  his  honor,  but  the  improvement  of  the  town  has  been  slow,  and  in 
1870  it  had  only  446  inhabitants.  There  are  pleasant  drives  from  this 
village  to  Moultonboro,  to  Sandwich,  and  * “around  the  ring,”  the  latter 
being  by  a series  of  roads  4 M.  long,  passing  by  Red  Hill  and  within  sight 
of  Squam  Lake,  and  returning  to  the  village.  Centre  Harbor  Hill , 1 M. 
from  the  hotels,  affords  a fine  lake  prospect,  recommended  for  its  sunset 
views.  But  the  main  attraction  of  the  place  is  the  * ascent  of  Red  Hill 
(2,000  ft.  high).  By  the  highway  it  is  4 M.  to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  from 
which  a bridle-path  nearly  2 M.  long  reaches  the  summit.  A road  2 M. 
shorter  is  available  to  the  pedestrian,  by  passing  out  on  the  Sandwich 
road,  taking  the  first  farm-lane  to  the  r.  beyond  the  cemetery  and  cross- 
roads, and  crossing  straight  to  Red  Hill  by  means  of  quiet,  rural  field- 
roads.  The  mountain-path  soon  turns  to  the  r.  from  the  highway  (which 
is  followed  to  the  1.  after  it  is  gained).  The  hill  is  ascended  to  the  first 
cottage,  around  whose  upper  corner  the  path  bears  sharply  to  the  1.  The 
reddish  sienite  ledges  of  the  summit  are  gained  by  a long  climb  through 
the  forest,  and  here  is  seen  the  luxuriant  uva  ursce,  whose  flame-red 
autumnal  tints  probably  gave  name  to  the  mountain.  The  * * view  from 
the  summit  vies  in  beauty  with  that  from  Mount  Holyoke,  though  of  far 
different  character  and  devoid  of  historic  charm.  Lake  Winnepesaukee  is 
outstretched  in  the  S.  with  leagues  of  bright  waters  and  hundreds  of 
islets,  while  the  twin  summits  of  Mt.  Belknap  are  seen  over  Centre 
Harbor,  about  15  M.  away.  In  the  S.  W.  is  Mt.  Kearsarge,  full  30  M. 
distant,  while  it  is  claimed  that  Monadnock  (70  M.  S.  W.)  maybe  seen  in  a 
clear  day.  In  the  W.  is  the  lovely  Squam  Lake,  winding  like  Winder- 
mere,  among  the  hills,  with  numerous  islands  and  white,  sandy  beaches, 
while  beyond  are  the  Squam  Mts.  and  Mt.  Prospect,  near  Plymouth. 

“ The  Mt.  Washington  range  is  not  visible,  being  barred  from  sight  by  the  dark 


CENTRE  HARBOR. 


Route  32.  217 


Sandwich  Range,  which  in  the  afternoon,  untouched  by  the  light,  wears  a savage 
frown  that  contrasts  most  effectively  with  the  placid  beauty  of  the  lake  below. 
Here  is  the  place  to  study  its  borders,  to  admire  the  fleet  of  islands  that  ride  at  an- 
chor on  its  bosom,  — from  little  shallops  to  grand  three-deckers,  — and  to  enjoy  the 
exquisite  lines  by  which  its  bays  are  infolded,  in  which  its  coves  retreat,  and  with 
which  its  low  capes  cut  the  azure  water,  and  hang  over  it  an  emerald  fringe.” 
(Starr  King.) 

“ Far  to  the  south 

Thy  slumbering  waters  floated,  one  long  sheet 
Of  burnished  gold,  — between  thy  nearer  shores 
Softly  embraced,  and  melting  distantly 
Into  a yellow  haze,  embosomed  low 
’Mid  shadowy  hills  and  misty  mountains,  all 
Covered  with  showery  light,  as  with  a veil 
Of  airy  gauze.”  — Pekcival. 

In  the  N.  E.  the  weird  peak  of  Chocorua  is  seen,  and  nearer  at  hand  in  the  E. 
is  the  heavy,  dark  mass  of  Ossipee.  The  central  peak  of  the  Sandwich  Range  is 
White  Face,  while  Black  Peak  holds  the  left,  and  the  right  extends  from  Passa- 
conaway  to  Chocorua.  The  white  village  in  the  plain  below  is  Sandwich,  while 
the  Bear  Camp  and  Red  Hill  Ponds  are  seen  in  its  vicinity.  “Whoever  misses 
the  view  from  Red  Hill  loses  the  most  fascinating  and  thoroughly  enjoyable  view, 
from  a moderate  mountain-height,  that  can  be  gained  from  any  eminence  that  lies 
near  the  tourist’s  path.”  The  afternoon  is  the  best  time  for  the  excursion. 

* Squam  Lake  is  3 - 4 M.  from  Centre  Harbor,  and  should  be  visited 
for  the  sake  of  its  sequestered  loveliness,  its  romantic  islets,  and  its  white 
strand.  The  waters  of  Squam  are  of  rare  purity,  and  abound  in  fish. 

Plymouth  is  12  M.  N.  W.  of  Centre  Harbor,  and  is  approached  by  a 
smooth  but  hilly  road,  passing  through  the  romantically  beautiful  district 
formerly  inhabited  by  the  Squamscott  Indians.  This  road  skirts  the 
shores  of  Squam  and  Little  Squam  Lakes,  and  at  about  5 M.  from  Centre 
Harbor,  has  a superb  * view  of  Chocorua,  15  M.  away,  over  the  broadest 
part  of  Squam  Lake.  The  road  passes  across  the  broad,  rich  intervales 
of  Holderness  and  Plymouth,  with  the  Squam  Mts.  and  Mt.  Prospect  on 
the  r. 

On  leaving  Centre  Harbor  for  Wolf  boro,  the  steamer  keeps  a S.  E. 
course,  with  Ossipee  Mt.  on  the  E.  over  the  low  shores  of  Moultonboro 
Neck.  A great  archipelago  of  islands  is  passed, — islands  which  shall 
here  be  nameless,  they  being  worse  than  nameless  in  the  poverty  of  their 
homely  Saxon  titles.  About  midway  of  the  lake  “ the  unmistakable 
majesty  of  Washington  is  revealed.  There  he  rises,  40  M.  away,  tower- 
ing from  a plateau  built  for  his  throne,  dim  green  in  the  distance,  except 
the  dome  that  is  crowned  with  winter,  and  the  strange  figures  that  are 
scrawled  around  his  waist  in  snow.”  Fredrika  Bremer  speaks  of  “the 
Olympian  majesty  of  Mt.  Washington”  from  this  point.  “ Farther  on, 
the  summit  of  Chocorua  is  seen  moving  swiftly  over  lower  ranges,  and 
soon  the  whole  mountain  sweeps  into  view,  startling  you  with  its  ghost- 
like pallor  and  haggard  crest.”  On  Long  Island,  nearly  half-way  down 
the  lake,  is  a small  hotel,  while  the  Island  Hotel  on  Diamond  Island  is 
W.  of  the  course,  and  is  a favorite  resort  for  excursion  parties.  The 
mountains  in  the  N.  change  their  relative  positions  with  kaleidoscopic 
10 


218  Route  32. 


WOLFBORO. 


rapidity,  and  the  imposing  peaks  of  Mt.  Belknap  (whence  is  obtained  the 
finest  lake- view)  loom  up  ahead.  After  passing  these  peaks  the  steamer 
rounds  into  Wolfboro  Bay,  with  Copple  Crown  Mt.  on  the  r.  20  M.  from 
Centre  Harbor  is  the  village  of  Wolfboro. 

Hotels.  * Pavilion,  the  best  hotel  on  the  lake  ; Bellevue  House,  $ 8-12.00  a 
week  ; Lake  House.  There  are  also  many  pleasant  and  retired  boarding-houses 
in  and  near  the  village. 

Steamers  leave  for  Alton  Bay,  Centre  Harbor,  and  Weirs,  two  or  three  times 
daily. 

Stages  run  daily  to  Tuftonboro,  a stock-raising  town  7 M.  N.  W.,  and  to  Moul- 
tonboro,  over  a pleasant  road  on  the  E.  shore  oFthe  lake. 

Wolfboro  was  settled  in  1770,  and  was  the  site  of  the  fine  mansion  of 
Gov.  Sir  John  Wentworth.  It  is  now  a pleasant  village  in  a thriving 
town  of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  with  3 banks  and  3 churches.  Its  situ- 
ation on  two  long  hills  near  the  lake  is  very  beautiful,  and  fine  views  are 
enjoyed  of  the  Belknap  Mts.  across  the  water.  Good  lake-views  may  be 
had  from  the  hills  about  the  village,  and  also  from  Tumble-Down  Dick,  a 
high  eminence  near  the  large  Smith’s  Pond,  E.  of  Wolfboro.  But  the 
best  excursion  is  to  Copple  Crown  Mt .,  about  5 M.  S.  E.,  by  a road  passing 
to  S.  Wolfboro.  The  carriage-road  runs  nearly  to  the  summit  (fare,  $ 2.00 
from  the  hotel  for  each  person  of  a party).  Copple  Crown  is  2,100  ft. 
high,  and  furnishes  from  its  summit  a view  of  nearly  the  whole  length  of 
the  lake,  with  Mt.  Belknap  near  at  hand  in  the  N.  W.,  and  the  heavy 
range  of  Sandwich  looming  above  the  head  of  the  lake.  Chocorua  and 
Ossipee  are  close  together,  a little  W.  of  N.,  and  on  a clear  day  Mt. 
Washington  may  be  seen  beyond  all,  while  the  ocean  is  visible  in  the 
opposite  direction.  30  lakes  and  ponds  are  seen  from  Copple  Crown,  of 
which  Ossipee,  in  the  N.,  is  one  of  the  finest. 

The  Wolfboro  Branch  of  the  Eastern  Railroad  runs  to  the  N.  Conway  main  line 
in  12  M.  Two  express  trains  leave  for  Boston  daily,  making  the  distance  (106 
M.)  in  4-5  hrs. 

After  leaving  Wolfboro  the  steamer  follows  a southerly  course  to  Fort 
Point,  where  it  turns  by  Little  Mark  Island  into  Alton  Bay.  This  is  a 
narrow  estuary,  4-5  M.  long,  and  bordered  by  high  wooded  hills  of 
Trosach-like  boldness.  The  steamer  follows  the  sinuosities  of  this  curi- 
ous inlet,  and  sometimes  seems  to  be  walled  in,  as  neither  way  of  ingress 
nor  egress  is  seen.  Mt.  Major  is  passed  on  the  W.  shore,  and  after  many 
turns  and  bendings  the  last  bluff  is  passed,  and  the  hotel  and  station  at 
the  S.  extremity  of  the  lake  are  reached.  Plere  is  situated  the  Bay  View 
House  ($10-14.00  a week),  a quiet  summer-hotel  with  pleasant  drives 
and  good  fishing  in  the  vicinity. 

Alton  Bay  was  formerly  called  Merry-Meeting  Bay,  since  it  was  a famous  gath- 
ering-place for  the  Indians.  Several  Indian  raids  on  the  N.  H.  coast  passed  down 
this  bay,  and  in  1722  the  province  built  a military  road  to  it,  and  commenced  for- 
tiiications.  The  cost  was  found  to  be  too  heavy  for  the  little  colony,  and  the 
position  was  given  up.  Atkinson’s  regiment,  which  was  covering  the  frontiers 
during  the  French  war,  built  a fort  and  encamped  here  through  the  winter  of 
1746-7. 


CENTRE  HARBOR  TO  CONWAY.  Route  32.  219 


The  hotel  is  about  30  M.  from  Centre  Harbor.  Mt.  Major  and  Pros- 
pect Hill  are  near  the  hotel,  and  command  beautiful  lake-views,  while  the 
ocean  may  be  seen  (in  clear  weather)  from  the  top  of  Prospect.  Sharp’s 
Hill  also  gives  a neat  lake-view. 

Among  the  longer  excursions  is  that  to  Lougee  Pond,  near  a cluster  of 
lakelets  from  which  flows  the  Suncook  River.  Gilmanton  Iron  Works 
village  is  a little  way  S.  of  these  ponds,  which  are  about  6 M.  from  Al- 
ton Bay.  6 - 8 M.  to  the  eastward  lies  Merrymeeting  Lake,  an  irregular, 
picturesque,  and  sequestered  pond  10  M.  in  circumference,  N.  of  which 
is  Copple-Crown  Mt.  The  favorite  excursion  from  Alton  Bay  is  to  Mt. 
Belknap,  10  M.  N.  W.  on  the  shores  of,  and  overlooking,  Lake  Winne- 
pesaukee.  Seats  in  the  carriage  which  runs  to  the  mt.  whenever  a party 
is  formed  cost  $1.50  each,  and  the  noble  view  of  lakes  and  mts.  more 
than  repays  for  the  time  and  trouble  of  the  journey. 

Three  trains  daily  (during  the  season)  leave  Alton  Bay  for  Boston. 
Distance,  96  M. ; time  about  4 hrs.  (see  Route  38.) 


Centre  Harbor  to  Conway. 

A railroad  line  has  been  surveyed  from  Meredith  through  Centre  Har- 
bor to  W.  Ossipee.  Daily  stages  now  pass  over  the  road  between  these 
points.  After  leaving  the  Harbor,  Red  Hill  is  approached  and  passed, 
and  a village  of  Moultonboro  is  reached  in  5 M.  from  the  Senter  House. 
Moultonboro  has  a small  inn  and  two  or  three  boarding-houses,  and 
abounds  in  pleasant  scenery  which  is  rarely  visited.  Red  Hill  is  here, 
and  Ossipee  Mt.,  also  the  long  and  sequestered  Moultonboro  Bay  with  its 
great  archipelago  of  picturesque  islets,  and  with  plenty  of  fish  in  its 
waters. 

The  Ossipee  Indians  had  their  home  near  this  bay,  and  many  relics  of  them 
have  been  found,  chief  among  which  is  a great  monumental  mound  at  the  mouth 
of  Melvin  River. 


Where  the  Great  Lake's  sunny  smiles 
Dimple  round  its  hundred  isles, 

And  the  mountain’s  granite  ledge 
Cleaves  the  water  like  a wedge. 

Ringed  about  with  smooth,  gray  stones, 
Rest  the  giant’s  mighty  bones. 


Over  lowlands  forest-grown 
Over  waters  island-strown, 

Over  silver-sanded  beach, 
Leaf-locked  bay  and  misty  reacli, 
Melvin  stream  and  burial-heap. 
Watch  and  ward  the  mountains  keep. 


Close  beside,  in  shade  and  gleam, 

Laughs  and  ripples  Melvin  stream, 
Melvin  water,  mountain-born, 

All  fair  flowers  its  banks  adorn  ; 

All  the  woodland  s voices  meet. 

Mingling  with  its  murmurs  sweet. 

See  Whittier's  poem, 


Who  that  Titan  cromlech  fills  ? 
Forest-kaiser,  lord  o’  the  hills  ? 
Knight  who  on  the  birchen  tree 
Carved  his  savage  heraldry  ? 

Priest  o’  the  pine  wood  temples  dim, 
Prophet,  sage,  or  wizard  grim  ? ” 

“ The  Grave  by  the  Lake.” 


On  the  S.  side  of  Ossipee  Mt.  is  a mineral  spring,  about  1 M.  from  which  is  a 
noble  fountain,  16  ft.  around,  whose  waters  gush  forth  with  great  force  and 
copiousness.  Following  the  stream  which  is  born  here,  a fine  water-fall,  70  ft. 
deep,  is  found  in  the  forest,  on  the  1.  of  which  is  a cavern. 


The  stage-road,  after  some  pleasant  views  of  Squam  Lake,  enters  the 
pretty  village  of  Sandwich  ( Red  Hill  House  ; boarding-houses  of  Beede , 


220  Route  32. 


SANDWICH. 


Wiggin,  and  others),  which  is  in  a narrow  valley  nearly  surrounded  hy 
mountains.  The  scenery  is  noble,  embracing  Ossipee  on  the  S.  E.,  Red 
Hill,  the  Sqnam  Mts.  on  the  W.,  and  the  dark  and  storm-worn  Sandwich 
Range  on  the  N.  Sqnam  Lake  is  on  the  S.  W.  border  of  the  town,  and  a 
charming  road  leads  from  the  village  to  Plymouth , passing  for  several 
miles  along  the  N.  and  W.  shores  of  the  lake,  with  the  Squam  Mts.  on 
the  r.  Another  road  (somewhat  arduous)  leads  across  a high  mountain- 
pass  to  Thornton , in  the  Pemigewasset  Valley,  while  a bridle-path  leads 
through  Greeley’s  Gap  to  Waterville.  Beyond  Sandwich  the  stage  passes 
near  Bearcamp  Pond,  and  follows  the  Bearcamp  River  down  through 
Sandwich  Notch  to  the  lowlands  of  Tamworth  and  Ossipee  towns. 

Whittier’s  poem,  “ Among  the  Hills,”  has  its  scene  laid  in  this  vicinity  where 

“ Through  Sandwich  notch  the  west-wind  sang  Above  his  broad  lake  Ossipee 

Good  morrow  to  the  cotter  ; Once  more  the  sunshine  wearing, 

And  once  again  Chocorua’s  horn  Stooped,  tracing  on  that  silver  shield 

Of  shadow  pierced  the  water.  His  grim  armorial  bearing.’’ 

And  many  are  the  weary  ones  who  still  come  here 

“ To  drink  the  wine  of  mountain  air 
Beside  the  Bearcamp  Water.” 

Whiteface  (4,100  ft.  high)  is  the  most  imposing  of  the  Sandwich  Mts., 
and  is  sometimes  ascended  from  Sandwich,  although  the  excursion  is 
arduous  and  fatiguing.  The  view  is  said  to  be  magnificent,  embracing 
Winnepesaukfee  on  the  S.  with  the  loftier  peaks  of  the  White  Mts.  on  the 
N.  On  the  N.  E.  is  Passaconaway,  a noble  peak,  4,200  ft.  high,  which 
was  named  after  the  great  sagamore  of  Pennacook,  the  most  powerful 
Indian  prince  in  northern  New  England,  early  in  the  17th  century.  He 
governed  a large  confederacy  of  tribes  from  his  seat  at  Pennacook  (Con- 
cord), and  although  he  strove  to  annihilate  the  English  by  necromantic 
arts,  he  never  put  his  warriors  in  arms  against  them  (see  page  222). 

Chocorua  and  Ossipee. 

The  road  through  Sandwich  Notch  passes  out  by  Banks'  Hotel , near 
W.  Ossipee  station,  on  the  Eastern  R.  R.  (Route  31).  This  is  a pleasant 
old  country  hotel,  with  good  accommodations  at  a moderate  price,  and 
stands  in  a fine  position  either  for  viewing  or  visiting  the  surrounding 
scenery.  Banks’  is  18  M.  from  Centre  Harbor,  by  way  of  Sandwich. 
Pleasant  excursions  are  made  along  Bear  River  and  into  the  Sandwich 
Notch.  Ossipee  Mt.  is  close  to  the  hotel,  and  the  highest  peak  is  but  2-3 
M.  distant.  A grand  view  of  Lake  Winnepesaukee  is  obtained  from  this 
point,  while  Chocorua  looms  up  in  the  N.  and  Ossipee  Lake  is  in  the 
S.  W. 

Ossipee  Lake  is  about  4 M.  S.  E.  of  the  hotel.  The  road  follows  down 
the  Bear  Camp  valley  to  the  vicinity  of  the  lake.  In  the  field  near  Daniel 
Smith’s  farm-house  (1.  of  the  road)  is  an  Indian  mound,  nearly  50  ft.  in 
diameter,  from  which  several  skeletons  and  other  relics  have  been  taken. 


MOUNT  CHOCORUA. 


Route  33.  221 


In  the  same  field  and  nearer  the  lake  are  the  remains  of  Lovewell’s  fort, 
built  in  the  spring  of  1725,  and  abandoned  after  the  battle  at  Pequawket 
(Fryeburg).  Just  beyond  this  point  are  the  shores  of  Ossipee  Lake,  a 
sequestered  sheet  of  water  embracing  about  10  square  miles,  with  Green 
Mt.  rising  boldly  on  the  further  shore. 

* Mt.  Chocorua  is  best  visited  from  this  point.  It  is  8 M.  to  the  foot 
of  the  mt.  and  little  more  than  half-way  the  beautiful  Chocorua  Lake 
( Lake  House,  finely  situated)  is  passed.  From  this  point  the  summits  of 
the  mountain  are  seen,  of  which  “ one  is  a rocky,  desolate,  craggy-peaked 
substance,  crouching  in  shape  not  unlike  a monstrous  walrus  (though  the 
summit  suggests  more  the  half-turned  head  and  beak  of  an  eagle  on  the 
watch  against  some  danger) ; the  other  is  the  wraith  of  the  proud  and 
lonely  shape  above.”  The  ascent  requires  5 M.  from  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  and  is  very  arduous,  — no  path  having  yet  been  made. 

“How  rich  and  sonorous  that  word  Chocorua  is  ! Does  not  its  rhythm  suggest 
the  wildness  and  loneliness  of  the  great  hills  ? To  our  ears  it  always  brings  with 
it  the  sigh  of  the  winds  through  mountain-pines.  It  is  invested  with  traditional 
and  poetic  interest.  In  form  it  is  massive  and  symmetrical.  The  forests  of  its 
lower  slopes  are  crowned  with  rock  that  is  sculptured  into  a peak  with  lines  full 
of  haughty  energy,  in  whose  gorges  huge  shadows  are  entrapped,  and  whose  cliffs 
blaze  with  morning  gold.  On  one  side  of  its  jagged  peak  a charming  lowland 
prospect  stretches  E.  and  S.  of  the  Sandwich  Range,  indented  by  the  emerald 
shores  of  Winnepesaukee,  which  lies  in  queenly  beauty  upon  the  soft,  far-stretch- 
ing landscapes.  Pass  around  a huge  rock  to  the  other  side  of  the  steep  pyramid, 
and  you  have  turned  to  another  chapter  in  the  book  of  nature.  Nothing  but 
mountains  running  in  long  parallels,  or  bending,  ridge  behind  ridge,  are  visible, 
here  brilliant  in  sunlight,  there  gloomy  with  shadow,  and  all  related  to  the  tower- 
ing mass  of  the  imperial  Washington There  is  no  summit  from  which  the 

precipices  are  so  sheer,  and  sweep  down  with  such  cycloidal  curves.  It  is  so 
related  to  the  plains  on  one  side  and  the  mountain-gorges  on  the  other,  that  no 
grander  watch-tower,  except  Mt.  Washington,  can  be  scaled  to  study  and  enjoy 
cloud  scenery/’  (Starr  King.) 

Chocorua,  the  blameless  prophet-chief  of  the  Sokokis  Indians,  was  pursued  to  this 
lofty  peak  by  a white  hunter,  who  was  determined  to  kill  him  for  the  sake  of  the 
scalp-money  (the  colonies  gave  large  bounties  for  Indian  scalps).  The  chief 
pleaded  for  quarter,  speaking  of  his  quiet  life  in  which  he  had  never  harmed 
the  colonists  ; but  when  his  pursuer  refused  to  hear,  and  drew  near  to  put  him  to 
death,  the  noble  Chocorua  cast  one  long,  lingering  look  over  the  fair  lands  of  his 
hunted  people,  and  lifting  up  his  arms  invoked  a solemn  and  terrible  curse  upon 
the  country  in  which  the  English  were  swarming.  He  then  leaped  boldly  over 
the  tremendous  precipice,  and  was  dashed  in  pieces  on  the  rocks  below.  Malig- 
nant and  fatal  diseases  among  the  cattle,  and  other  fell  signs  long  troubled  the 
towns  about  the  mountain,  while  strange  legends  arose,  and  the  baleful  effects 
were  for  many  years  attributed  to  the  merited  curse  of  Chocorua. 


33.  The  White  Mountains  and  North  Conway. 

New  York  to  the  White  Mts.  (a.)  By  Route  24,  through  New  Haven,  Springfield, 
and  Wells  River,  to  Littleton  (whence  stages  run  to  the  Profile  House,  341  M. 
from  N.  Y.),  and  the  Twin  Mt.  House  (338  M.  by  R.  R.  from  N.  Y.).  Stages  from 
the  Twin  Mt.  House  to  the  Crawford  House  (9  M.) 

(&.)  By  steamer  to  New  London,  thence  by  Route  12  to  Amherst,  Brattleboro, 
and  Wells  River,  — thence  to  the  Mts.  as  in  (a). 

(c.)  By  New  London,  Norwich,  Worcester,  and  Nashua  (Route  13),  to  Concord, 
and  thence  by  Route  30.  Or  by  the  pffeceding  way  as  far  as  Weirs,  whence  Lake 


222  Route  S3.  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS  AND  N.  CONWAY. 


Winnepesaukee  (Route  32)  is  crossed  to  Wolfboro’,  and  Route  31  is  followed  to 
N.  Conway.  Many  tourists  prefer  to  take  the  night  train  or  boat  to  Boston,  and 
make  their  way  thence  to  the  White  Mts.  by  a morning  train. 

Boston  to  the  White  Mts.  ( d .)  By  route  31,  through  Lynn,  Salem,  Newburyport, 
and  Portsmouth,  to  N.  Conway.  By  this  route  the  distance  from  Boston  to  N. 
Conway  is  137  M.  ; to  the  Crawford  House,  162  M.  ; to  the  Glen  House,  157  M. 

(e.)  By  Routes  29  and  30,  through  Lowell,  Nashua,  Manchester,  and  Concord, 
to  Weirs,  Plymouth,  and  the  Twin  Mt.  House.  Or  by  crossing  Lake  Winne- 
pesaukee  from  Weirs  to  Wolfboro,  reach  N.  Conway  by  Route  31  (or  by  the  stage- 
route  from  Centre  Harbor). 

(/.)  By  Route  31  to  Wolfboro,  thence  crossing  Lake  Winnepesaukee  to  Weirs, 
and  following  Route  30  to  Plymouth,  Littleton,  and  the  Franconia  Mts.,  or  to  the 
Twin  Mt.  and  Crawford  House. 

(. 9 •)  By  Route  38  to  Alton  Bay,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  Wolfboro  and  Route 
31  to  N.  Conway  ; or  to  Centre  Harbor,  and  Route  32  ( ad  finem) ; or  to  Weirs,  and 
thence  by  Route  30,  as  in  (/). 

Portland  and  the  East  to  the  White  Mts.  (h.)  By  Route  39  to  N.  Conway  (60  M.), 
and  thence  by  stage  to  the  Crawford  and  Glen  Houses. 

( i .)  By  Route  40,  to  the  village  of  Gorham  (91  M.)  ; and  thence  by  stage  to  the 
Glen  House  and  Crawford  House. 

Montreal  and  Quebec  to  the  White  Mts.  (j.)  By  Route  40  (Grand  Trank  Railway 
to  Gorham,  206  M.  from  Montreal,  and  226  M.  from  Quebec. 

Albany  and  Saratoga  to  the  White  Mts.  ( k .)  By  Routes  53  and  28  to  Rutland, 
thence  by  Route  26  to  Bellows  Falls,  and  thence  by  White  River  Junction  and 
Wells  River  to  Littleton  and  the  Twin  Mt.  House. 

Pedestrianism  has  never  obtained  much  favor  in  America,  but  when  the 
present  post  bellum  era  of  prodigality  and  pretence  has  passed  away,  we  may  hope 
to  see  these  mountain  peaks  and  gorges  enlivened  by  parties  of  summer  ramblers 
who  will  gain  health  and  strength  from  inspiring  walks  in  the  pure,  sweet  air. 
The  gentry  of  Old  England,  with  their  ladies,  are  fond  of  passing  thus  through  the 
Swiss  Alps  or  the  Scottish  Highlands,  and  when  the  people  here  shall  adopt  this 
mode  of  summer  travel,  the  physical  culture  of  New  England  will  reach  a higher 
standard.  Many  admirable  pedestrian  routes  may  be  made  through  the  White 
Mts.,  but  the  tourist  should  have  plenty  of  time,  and  be  well  and  lightly  equipped 
(see  Introduction,  IV.)  A good  iield-glass  will  be  found  of  essential  service. 


The  Wiiite  Mts.  were  called  Agiochook  (“Mts.  of  the  Snowy  Forehead  and 
Home  of  the  Great  Spirit  ”)  by  some  of  the  Indian  tribes,  and  Kan  Ran  Vugarty 
(“the  continued  likeness  of  a gull”)  by  others.  The  Algonquins  called  them 
Waumbek  (White  Rock)  or  Waunibeket-Methna,  and  the  natives  had  the  utmost 
reverence  for  these  mts.,  believing  them  to  be  the  home  and  throne  of  the  Great 
Spirit.  But  rarely  did  the  Indians  ascend  the  higher  peaks,  since  it  was  reported 
among  the  tribes  that  no  intruder  upon  these  sacred  heights  was  ever  known  to 
return  to  his  people.  There  was  a legend  that  the  Great  Spirit  once  bore  a blame- 
less chief  and  his  wife  in  a mighty  whirlwind  to  the  summit  of  Agiochook,  while 
the  world  beiow  was  overspread  by  a flood  which  destroyed  all  the  people.  A 
wilder  and  more  recent  tradition  is  to  the  effect  that  the  great  Passaconawav,  the 
wizard-king  of  the  wide-spread  Pennacook  confederation  (who  ruled  from  about 
1620  to  1660),  was  wont  to  commune  with  celestial  messengers  on  the  summit  of 
Agiochook,  whence  he  was  finally  borne  to  heaven  in  a flaming  chariot.  Some 
authorities  claim  that  a party  of  Englishmen  visited  these  mts.  in  1631-2,  but  the 
latest  historians  credit  their  discovery  to  Darby  Field,  who  came  up  from  the 
coast  in  1642.  The  Indian  villagers  at  Pequawket  (Fryeburg)  earnestly  endeavored 
to  dissuade  him  from  the  ascent,  telling  him  that  he  would  never  return  alive. 
But  he  pressed  on  with  his  two  sea-shore  Indians,  passing  through  cloud-banks 
and  storms  until  he  reached  the  last  peak,  whence  he  saw  “the  sea  by  Saco,  the 
gulf  of  Canada,  and  the  great  lake  Canada  River  came  out  of.”  He  found  many 
crystals  here,  which  he  thought  were  diamonds,  and  from  which  the  chain  long 
bore  the  name  of  “ the  Chrystall  Hills.”  Tradition  says  that  in  1765  a party  of  9 
of  Rogers’  Rangers,  retreating  from  St.  Francis,  were  led  up  Israel’s  River  into 
these  defiles  by  a treacherous  Indian  guide,  and  all  of  them  died  except  one,  who 
reached  the  settlements  with  his  knapsack,  filled  with  human  flesh.  It  was  said 


NORTH  CONWAY. 


Route  33.  223 


that  this  party  bore  the  great  silver  image  taken  from  the  church  at  St.  Francis, 
and  several  of  the  early  hunters  made  earnest  quest  after  this  sacred  relic.  A 
short  legendary  era  followed,  and  then  the  pioneer  colonists  began  to  move  into 
the  outlying  glens.  In  1771  the  Notch  was  discovered  ; in  1792  Abel  Crawford 
lived  onthe  Giant’s  Grave  ; in  1803  a small  tavern  was  built  there  ; and  in  July, 
1820,  a party  of  seven  gentlemen  slept  on  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington,  and 
gave  the  names  which  the  principal  peaks  still  bear.  In  1819  the  first  bridle-path 
to  the  summit  was  cut,  and  a small  stone  hut  was  erected  near  that  point.  The 
Summit  House  was  built  in  1852,  and  the  Tip-Top  House  was  completed  shortly 
after.  In  September,  1855,  a small  party  started  one  afternoon  to  walk  to  the 
summit,  and  being  without  a guide  became  bewildered  and  lost,  and  one  young 
lady  died  at  midnight  from  cold  and  weariness.  In  the  next  August,  a Delaware 
gentleman  started  from  the  Glen  without  a guide,  in  the  afternoon,  and  died  near 
the  summit  from  exposure  to  a cold  night  storm.  Late  in  October,  1851,  a young 
English  gentleman  ascended  alone  from  Crawford’s  to  the  summit,  and  fell  from  a 
great  precipice  into  the  Ammonoosuc  Valley,  where  his  mangled  corpse  was  found. 
For  some  years  the  summit  has  been  occupied  during  the  winter  as  a station  of 
the  meteorological  department  of  the  U.  S.  Army,  and  the  men  on  duty  have  ex- 
perienced the  most  intense  cold  and  watched  terrific  storms.  The  thermometer 
(Fahrenheit)  lias  descended  to  59  below  zero,  and  the  winds  have  attained  a ve- 
locity of  100  M.  an  hour. 

“ The  geological  features  of  Mt.  Washington  possess  but  little  interest.  The 
rocks  in  place  consist  of  a coarse  variety  of  mica  slate,  passing  into  gneiss,  which 
contains  a few  crystals  of  black  tourmaline  and  quartz.”  The  cone  is  covered  with 
blocks  of  mica  slate.  The  flora  of  the  upper  region  is  nearly  identical  with  that 
of  Labrador  and  Lapland.  “ The  period  when  the  White  Mts.  ceased  to  be  a group 
of  islands,  or  when,  by  the  emergence  of  the  surrounding  low  land,  they  first  be- 
came connected  with  the  continent,  is  of  very  modern  date,  geologically  speaking.” 
(Sir  Charles  Lyell.)  Below  the  broken  and  distorted  stratum  of  mica  slate,  the 
vast  mass  of  the  mountains  is  of  granite. 

North  Conway. 

Hotels.  *Kiarsarge  House,  350-400  guests,  $4.00  a day,  — a fine  structure, 
with  extensive  parlors  and  dining-room,  and  a broad  view  from  the  central  tower  ; 
* Sunset  Pavilion,  opposite  the  Episcopal  church  ; McMillan  House,  S.  of  the  vil- 
lage ; Washington  House  ; Eastman  House  ; N.  Conway  House,  in  the  village  ; 
Intervale  House,  about  2 M.  N.,  near  Mt.  Kiarsarge.  There  are  over  20  large  sum- 
mer boarding-houses  in  and  around  N.  Conway,  most  of  which  are  comfortable 
and  quiet.  Their  prices  range  from  $ 7.00  to  $ 12.00  a week. 

Railroads.  The  Eastern  Railroad  (see  Route  31)  runs  two  express  trains  each 
way  daily  (through  the  summer)  between  Boston  and  N.  Conway,  in  5 hours. 
Distance,  137  M.  ; fare,  $5.00.  The  trains  leave  Boston  (time-table  of  1872)  at 
8.10  A.  M.  and  2.40  P.  M.,  and  are  provided  with  Pullman  parlor-cars.  The  Port- 
land and  Ogdensburg  Railroad  runs  three  trains  daily  each  way  (through  the  sum- 
mer) between  Portland  and  N.  Conway.  Distance  60  M. , time  2^-3  hours  (see  Route 
39).  This  line  connects  at  Portland  with  steamers  for  Boston,  and  trains  run  W.  from 
N.  Conway  for  12  M.,  to  Sawyer’s  Rock,  on  the  road  to  the  White  Mt.  Notch. 

Stages  leave  N.  Conway  for  the  Crawford  House  and  the  Glen  House  (connect- 
ing for  Franconia  and  Gorham)  at  8 A.  M.  and  2 P.  M.  To  the  Glen  House,  20  M., 
in  5 hours  ; fare,  $3.00  ; to  the  Crawford  House,  25  M.,  in  6-7  hours  ; fare,  $3.50. 
Daily  stages  leave  W.  Ossipee  for  Centre  Harbor,  on  Lake  Winnepesaukee. 
Fare,  $3.50. 

Post  Office  and  telegraph  facilities  are  found  in  the  village  ; carriage-s  may  be 
obtained  at  various  livery-stables  ; there  are  several  stores  where  most  necessary 
articles  may  be  obtained  ; and  there  are  three  churches,  Bapt.,  Cong.,  and  Epis. 

North  Conway  is  a pretty  village,  largely  composed  of  hotels  and  sum- 
mer boarding-houses,  situated  on  a natural  terrace  30  ft.  above  the  inter- 
vales of  the  Saco  River,  which  is  about  J M.  distant.  “ On  the  W.,  the 
long  and  noble  Mote  Mt.  guards  it;  on  the  E.,  the  rough,  less  lofty,  and 
bending  Rattlesnake  Ridge  helps  to  wall  it  in,  — unattractive  enough  in  the 


224  Route  33. 


NORTH  CONWAY. 


ordinary  daylight,  but  a great  favorite  of  the  setting  sun,  which  delights  to 
glorify  it  with  Tyrian  drapery.  On  the  S.  W.,  Chocorua  manages  to  get 
a peep  of  its  lovely  meadows.  Almost  the  whole  line  of  the  White  Mts. 
proper,  crowned  in  the  centre  by  the  dome  of  Mt.  Washington,  closes  the 
view  on  the  N.  W.  and  N.,  — only  12  or  15  M.  distant  by  the  air.  Mt. 
Washington  does  not  seem  so  much  to  stand  up,  as  to  lie  out  at  ease  along 
the  North.  The  leonine  grandeur  is  there,  but  it  is  the  lion  not  erect,  but 
couchant,  a little  sleepy,  stretching  out  his  paws  and  enjoying  the  sun. 

“The  distinction  of  N.  Conway  is,  that  it  is  a large  natural  poem  in 
landscape,  — a quotation  from  Arcadia,  or  a suburb  of  Paradise.  And 
then  the  sunsets  of  N.  Conway!  Coleridge  asked  Mont  Blanc  if  he 
had  * a charm  to  stay  the  morning  star  in  his  steep  course.’  It  is  time  for 
some  poet  to  put  the  question  to  those  bewitching,  elm-sprinkled  acres 
that  border  the  Saco,  by  what  sorcery  they  evoke,  evening  after  evening, 
upon  the  heavens  that  watch  them,  such  lavish  and  Italian  bloom.  Nay, 
it  is  not  Italian,  for  the  basis  of  its  beauty  is  pure  blue,  and  the  skies  of 
Italy  are  not  nearly  so  blue  as  those  of  New  England.  One  sees  more 
clear  sky  in  eight  summer  weeks  in  ConWay,  probably,  than  in  the  com- 
pass of  an  Italian  year.”  (Starr  King.) 

Mount  Kiarsarge,  or  Pequawket , is  3 M.  from  the  village,  and  attains 
a height  of  3,367  ft.  above  the  sea.  A bridle-path  (horses  $ 2.00  and  guides 
$ 2.00  each)  has  been  made  to  the  summit,  on  which  there  is  a small  hotel. 
The  view  from  this  point  embraces  the  village  and  the  valley  of  the 
Saco,  with  the  great  range  of  the  Mote  Mts.  beyond,  “ its  wooded  wall 
upreared  as  if  for  the  walk  of  some  angel  sentinel.”  In  the  N.  and  AY. 
is  a vast  throng  of  mountains,  grouped  “ in  relation  to  the  two  great 
centres,  — the  notched  summit  of  Lafayette  and  the  noble  dome  of  Wash- 
ington.” Lafayette  is  N.  of  W.,  28  - 30  M.  distant,  and  is  the  loftiest  of 
the  Franconia  Mts.  The  view  of  Mt.  Washington  from  Kiarsarge  is  one 
of  the  best  attainable,  while  in  the  opposite  direction,  100  M.  S.  W.  it  is 
claimed  that  “the  filmy  outline  of  Monadnock  gleams  like  a sail  just 
fading  out  upon  a vast  sea.”  Sebago  Lake,  Pleasant  Mt.,  Fryeburg  vil- 
lage, and  Lovewell’s  Pond  are  seen  in  the  S.  E.  and  E.,  together  with  a 
vast  area  of  eastern  Maine.  It  is  worth  while  to  remain  over  night  at  the 
hotel  ($4.00  a day),  to  enjoy  the  gorgeous  sunrise  and  sunset. 

The  Ledges  are  3 M.  from  the  village,  beyond  the  Saco,  where  Mote  Mt. 
terminates  in  cliffs  ranging  from  100  to  960  ft.  in  height,  and  extending 
nearly  5 M.  The  river  is  shallow  and  must  be  forded,  as  the  fierce  spring 
floods  render  bridges  impossible.  A curious  formation  of  white  rock 
(looking  like  a horse  dashing  up)  which  was  once  visible  on  the  cliffs  (parts 
of  it  are  still  seen  from  N.  Conway),  has  caused  the  name  of  White  Horse 
Ledge  to  be  applied  to  a part  of  these  cliffs.  The  Cathedral  is  a 
singular  cavity  in  the  rock  (100  ft.  above  the  river  and  easily  reached)  20 


NORTH  CONWAY. 


Route  33.  225 


ft.  wide,  40  ft.  long,  and  60  ft.  high,  where  the  ledge  bends  over  in  an 
arch  above,  and  several  tall  trees  form  the  outer  wall.  “ And  truly  the 
waters,  frosts,  and  storms  that  scooped  and  grooved  its  curves  and  niches, 
seem  to  have  combined  in  frolic  mimicry  of  Gothic  art.  The  whole  front 
of  the  recess  is  shaded  by  trees,  which  kindly  stand  apart  just  enough  to 
frame  otf  Kiarsarge  in  lovely  symmetry,  — so  that  a more  romantic  rest- 
ing-place for  an  hour  or  two  in  a warm  afternoon  can  hardly  be  imagined.” 
Below  the  Cathedral  is  * Echo  Lake,  a beautiful  little  loch  under  the 
shadow  of  the  cliffs,  which  throw  back  an  echo  over  its  tranquil  waters. 
A little  way  N.  of  the  Cathedral  is  a fine  double  fall,  above  and  below 
which  are  several  deep  basins  in  the  solid  rock,  filled  with  sparkling 
water,  one  of  which  is  known  as  Diana's  Bath. 

The  Artists'  Falls  are  in  the  forest  1J  M.  E.  of  the  village,  and,  though 
insignificant  in  themselves,  are  in  combination  with  beautiful  group- 
ings of  rock  and  woodland  scenery.  The  Artists'  Ledge  is  some  distance 
S.  of  N.  Conway,  and  commands  noble  * views  of  the  village  and  valley 
with  Mt.  Washington  looming  far  above  and  beyond  them.  Chocorua  is 
seen  in  the  S.  E.  across  the  level  and  luxuriant  valley  in  which  glimpses 
are  gained  of  the  Swift  and  the  Saco  Rivers. 

Excursions  are  made  from  N.  Conway  to  Thorn  Hill,  8 M.  ; Dundee, 
10  M. ; Sligo,  13  M. ; Jockey  Cap  Mt.  and  Lovewell’s  Pond,  in  Fryeburg, 
11-13  M. ; Mount  Chocorua,  18  M. ; Goodrich  and  Jackson  Falls,  6— 9 

H.  ; “ around  the  square,”  a favorite  drive  near  Mt.  Kiarsarge,  5 M. ; and 
up  the  narrow  western  valley  to  Swift  River  Falls,  18  M.,  with  Chocorua 
on  the  1.,  Mote  and  Bear  Mts.  on  the  r.,  and  Passaconaway  in  front. 
Champney's  Falls  are  visited  by  this  road,  and  are  very  beautiful  in  high 
water. 

N.  Conway  to  the  Glen  House  and  Gorham. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  village,  the  Cathedral  Woods  and  Mr.  Bigelow’s 
elegant  cottage  are  passed  on  the  r.  and  fine  views  are  afforded  of  the 
upper  intervales  undisfigured  by  railway  trestles  and  embankments.  Mt. 
Kiarsarge,  on  the  r.,  appears  in  constantly  changing  forms,  as  the  Inter- 
vale and  Pequawket  Houses  are  passed,  and  opposite  the  Kenison  House 
is  a foot-path  by  which  this  “ charming  pyramid  ” is  sometimes  ascended. 
After  the  road  crosses  the  East  Branch  of  the  Saco  it  bends  to  the  W. 
and  affords  a comprehensive  view  of  the  Conway  valley.  Shortly  after 
passing  Stilphen’s  (under  Cedar  Mt.)  a fine  retrospective  view  of  Kiar- 
sarge is  afforded.  Thorn  Mt.  is  now  seen  on  the  r.  and  Iron  Mt.  on  the 

I.  (in  advance),  and  the  road  passes  over  Goodrich  Falls,  which  maybe 
viewed  from  the  rocks  on  the  r.  bank,  or,  better  still,  from  the  shore 
below  (short  but  steep  path).  These  falls  are  on  the  Ellis  River,  and  are 
the  heaviest  in  the  mts.  As  the  stage  now  passes  along  the  Ellis  River 
frequent  glimpses  of  the  mts.  appear,  and  Jackson  City  is  soon  reached. 

10  *■  o 


226  Route  S3. 


GLEN  HOUSE. 


This  “ city  ” has  two  hotels,  the  Jackson  House  and  Thorn  Mt.  House 
($10.00  a week),  with  four  or  five  dwellings  and  a Baptist  church. 

The  Jackson  people  became  discontented  during  the  Secession  War,  on  account 
of  crushing  taxes,  and  after  some  acts  of  violence  on  their  part,  it  was  found 
necessary  to  occupy  the  place  with  U.  S.  troops,  who  were  quartered  in  the  church. 
The  town  was  settled  in  1778,  and  in  1790  came  Capt.  Pinkham  and  five  families 
on  snow-shoes  and  sledges.  Shortly  after,  Daniel  Pinkham  built  a rude  road 
through  the  notch  which  still  bears  his  name,  and  the  little  settlement  was  called 
New  Madbury.  In  1800  this  name  was  changed  to  Adams,  and  in  1829,  when 
Adams  and  Jackson  were  candidates  for  the  Presidency,  and  the  latter  received 
every  vote  (except  one)  in  the  town,  it  took  the  name  of  Jackson. 

Many  rare  minerals  are  found  here,  and  tin-mines  have  been  worked  on 
one  of  the  hills.  This  central  plaza  in  the  city  of  hills  is  much  frequented 
in  summer  by  artists,  trout-fishers,  and  lovers  of  quiet  and  sequestered 
scenery.  The  Jackson  Falls  are  close  to  the  village  (seen  from  the  bridge 
over  Wildcat  Brook  on  the  r.),  and  are  very  beautiful  in  high  water.  Iron 
Mt.  is  2,900  ft.  high  and  looms  up  on  the  1.,  while  Tin  Mt.  is  on  the  r. 
Eagle  Mt.  on  the  N.  is  rounded  on  the  r.  after  leaving  the  village.  The 
road  now  ascends  through  the  thickening  forest  with  the  Ellis  Biver  on 
the  1.,  while  occasional  glimpses  of  the  Carter  Mt.  are  obtained  on  the  r. 
No  houses  are  seen  in  this  desolate  pass,  and  7 M.  beyond  Jackson  the 
path  to  the  Glen  Ellis  Fall  is  seen  on  the  r.  4 - 5 M.  beyond  (with  occa- 
sional glimpses  of  Tuckerman’s  Bavine  and  the  slopes  of  Mt.  Washing- 
ton), the  spacious  * Glen  House  is  reached.  This  hotel  accommodates 
500  guests  ($  4.50  a day),,  keeps  a band  of  music  through  the  summer,  and 
has  a parlor  and  dining-room,  each  of  which  is  100  by  45  ft.  in  dimensions. 
“ The  Glen  House  is  at  the  very  base  of  the  monarch,  and  Adams,  Jeffer- 
son, Clay,  and  Madison  bend  around  towards  the  E.  with  no  lower  hills 
to  obstruct  the  impression  of  their  height.”  The  Glen  is  1,632  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  830  ft.  above  Gorham,  and  is  watered  by  Peabody  Biver  and 
surrounded  by  lofty  peaks.  On  the  E.  is  the  long  dark  ridge  of  the 
forest-covered  Carter  Mt.,  and  on  the  W.  is  the  noble  brotherhood  of  the 
five  chief  peaks  of  New  England.  Mt.  Madison  (5,361  ft.)  is  4 M.  N.  W. 
in  an  air-line,  and  next  in  the  majestic  group  comes  the  sharp  and  sym- 
metrical pyramid  of  Mt.  Adams  (5,800  ft.).  The  massive  crest  of  Mt. 
Jefferson  (5,700  ft.)  comes  next,  then  Mt.  Clay  (5,400  ft.),  and  S.  E.  of 
the  hotel  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington  (6,285  ft.)  is  seen  peering  over 
lofty  spurs  and  secondary  peaks.  “ MAJ.  Clay  Washington  ” is  a for- 
mula which  fixes  in  the  mind  the  order  of  these  mountains.  Abetter  view 
is  obtained  by  ascending  for  a few  hundred  feet  the  mt.  behind  the  hotel. 

Thompson’s  Falls  are  about  2 M.  S.  W.  of  the  Glen  House,  and  a 
guide-board  on  the  1.  shows  the  point  where  the  N.  Conway  road  is 
quitted,  and  a forest-path  is  entered.  The  falls  are  J M.  from  the  road, 
and  the  brook  may  be  followed  up  for  a considerable  distance,  the  walk 
affording  grand  retrospective  views  of  Mt.  Washington  and  Tuckerman’s 


GORHAM. 


Route  33.  227 


Ravine.  Not  far  from  these  falls  is  the  quiet  and  secluded  basin  called 
the  Emerald  Pool. 

The  * Crystal  Cascade  is  gained  by  a path' leading  from  the  road  into 
the  forest  to  the  1.,  about  1 M.  beyond  Thompson’s  Falls.  There  is  about 
4 hour  of  continuous  ascent  to  the  fall,  which  is  near  the  mouth  of  Tuck- 
erman’s  Ravine,  and  is  best  seen  from  a high  and  moss-covered  ledge 
opposite. 

“Down  it  comes,  leaping,  sliding,  tripping,  widening  its  pure  tide,  and  then 
gathering  its  thin  sheet  to  gush  through  a narrowing  pass  in  the  rocks,  — all  the 
way  thus,  from  under  the  sheer  walls  of  Tuckennan’s  Ravine,  some  miles  above, 
till  it  reaches  the  curve  opposite  the  point  on  which  we  stand,  and  winding 
around  it,  sweeps  down  the  bending  stairway,  shattering  its  substance  into  ex- 
quisite crystal,  but  sending  off  enough  water  to  the  right  side  of  its  path  to  slip 
and  trickle  over  the  lovely,  dark-green  mosses  that  cling  to  the  gray  and  purple 
rocks.  We  never  look  at  the  Crystal  Cascade  without  revering  and  rejoicing  over 
the  poetry  with  which  nature  invests  the  birth  of  so  common  a thing  as  water.” 

A long  and  difficult  ascent  along  the  brook-bank  leads  into  Tuckerman’s  Ravine. 
The  Cascade  falls  about  80  ft. 

The  * Glen  Ellis  Fall  is  about  4 M.  from  the  Glen  House,  and  is 
gained  by  a plank- walk  turning  to  the  1.  from  the  N.  Conway  road  into 
the  forest.  This  is  the  finest  fall  in  the  mts.,  and  the  Ellis  River  here 
plunges  down  60  ft.  in  one  thick  white  mass,  half  sunk  in  a deep  channel 
which  it  has  cut  in  the  cliff.  The  steep  fall  of  60  ft.  is  prefaced  by  a 
descent  of  20  ft.  at  a sharp  angle.  From  the  top  of  the  cliff  one  sees 
“ the  slide  and  foam  of  the  narrow  and  concentrated  cataract  to  where  it 
splashes  into  the  dark  green  pool,  100  ft.  below.”  A better  view  of  this 
“ heart  of  mt.  wildness  ” is  gained  by  descending  a long  series  of  rude 
steps  to  the  edge  of  the  pool  below  the  fall.  “ It  is  feminine  and  maid- 
enly grace  that  is  illustrated  by  the  Crystal  Cascade  ; it  is  masculine 
youth,  the  spirit  of  heroic  adventure,  that  is  suggested  by  this  stream.” 

The  Garnet  Pools  are  1 M.  N.  of  the  Glen  House,  near  the  Gorham 
road,  and  show  some  curious  rock-carving  in  the  bed  of  the  Peabody 
River.  About  1J  M.  beyond,  by  crossing  the  bridge  to  the  1.,  the  point 
is  reached  (near  a farmhouse)  where  the  singular  appearance  of  a dis- 
torted human  face  is  seen  on  a peak  of  Imp  Mt.  Gorham  is  8 M.  N.  E. 
of  the  Glen  House,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  semi-daily  stages  (fare, 
$ 1.50)  running  down  the  valley  of  the  Peabody  River,  with  Imp  Mt.  and 
Mts.  Moriah  and  Surprise  on  the  r. 

Gorham. 

Hotels.  Gorham  House  ; Eagle  House  ; the  great  Alpine  House  was  burned, 
in  October,  1872. 

Stages  to  the  Glen  House  semi-daily.  Mountain  wagons  run  frequently,  but 
irregularly,  by  the  Cherry  Mt.  road  to  the  Crawford  and  Mt.  Washington  Houses. 

Railroad.  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  runs  to  Portland  (91  M.)  in  4£-  5 hours. 
By  taking  the  train  to  Northumberland  (31  M.  N.  W.),  a connection  is  "made  with 
the  B.  C.  & M.  and  White  Mts.  R.  R.,  running  to  Lancaster  and  Littleton  (Route 


228  Route  S3. 


GORHAM. 


Gorham  is  a thriving  village  at  the  confluence  of  the  Peabody  and  An- 
droscoggin Rivers,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  White  Mts.  and  800  ft.  above 
the  sea.  It  has  been  almost  entirely  created  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way, which  has  its  repair-shops  here.  “ For  river  scenery  combined  with 
impressive  mt.  forms,  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Gorham  surpasses  all  the 
other  districts  from  which  the  highest  peaks  are  visible.” 

* Mt.  Hayes  is  just  1ST.  E.  of  Gorham,  and  attains  a height  of  2,500  ft. 
The  Androscoggin  is  crossed  near  the  hotels  by  a suspension  foot-bridge, 
225  ft.  long,  remarkable  as  the  work  of  one  man  (a  hard-working  villager), 
who  conceived  the  work  and  executed  it  alone.  He  has  also  made  a path 
to  the  summit  of  the  mt.  (the  ascent  requires  2 hours).  The  view  is  thus 
described  : — 

“ The  rich  upland  of  Randolph,  over  which  the  ridges  of  Madison  and  Adams 
heave  towards  the  S.,  first  holds  the  eye.  Next  the  singular  curve  in  the  blue 
Androscoggin  around  the  Lary  farm,  arching  like  a bow  drawn  taut.  Down  the 
valley  Shelburne,  Gilead,  W.  Bethel,  and  Bethel,  were  laid  into  the  landscape  with 
rich  mosaics  of  grove  and  grass  and  ripening  grain,  — needing  a brush  dipped  in 
molten  opal  to  paint  their  wavy,  tremulous  beauty.  Directly  opposite,  seemingly 
only  an  arrow-shot’s  distance,  were  the  russet  ravines  of  Moriah  and  the  shadow- 
cooled  stairways  of  Carter.”  Mt.  Washington  is  seen  to  best  advantage  from  this 
point,  — “Mt.  Hayes  is  the  chair  set  by  the  Creator  at  the  proper  distance  and 
angle  to  appreciate  and  enjoy  his  kingly  prominence.” 

* Mt.  Surprise  is  a peak  of  Moriah  about  1,200  ft.  above  Gorham, 
lying  S.  E.  of  the  village,  Avith  a bridle-path  leading  through  a fine  forest 
to  its  summit  (2J  M.  from  the  hotels.)  Horses  are  easily  obtained,  but 
good  walkers  can  make  the  ascent  on  foot  in  90  minutes.  This  peak 
sustains  the  same  relation  to  the  Pinkham  Notch  as  Mt.  Willard  does  to 
the  Crawford  Notch.  Looking  up  the  pass,  Mt.  Carter  is  seen  on  the  1., 
and  the  five  presidential  peaks  on  the  r.,  with  Madison,  “the  Apollo  of 
the  highlands,”  boldly  advanced.  On  the  N.,  in  strongest  contrast,  are 
the  sweet  and  fertile  lowlands  of  the  Androscoggin,  with  their  peaceful 
farms  and  pastoral  beauty.  An  almost  obliterated  old  bridle-path  leads 
from  this  crest  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Moriah,  4,700  ft.  above  the  sea. 
This  peak  is  rarely  visited,  but  is  said  to  command  a noble  view. 

Randolph  Hill  is  5 M.  W.  of  the  village,  and  its  summit  is  gained  by  a 
road  that  rises  600  ft.  on  the  Avay.  From  the  road  and  the  hill-top  are 
gained  the  noblest  * prospects  of  the  northern  slopes,  lines,  and  peaks  of 
the  presidential  group,  especially  of  Madison  and  Adams. 

Gilead  is  10-12  M.  from  Gorham,  and  the  drive  thither  is  very 
pleasant,  being  alongside  the  river,  with  ever-changing  hill-scenery  on 
either  hand.  The  Lead- Mine  Bridge  is  4 M.  E.  of  Gorham,  near  an 
abandoned  mine,  and  is  celebrated  for  its  afternoon  and  sunset  views. 
This  point  should  be  visited  betAveen  5 and  7 P.  M.  Madison,  Adams, 
and  Washington  at  that  hour  become  “volcano-pictures,”  Avhile  the  nearer 
summits  of  Moriah,  Hayes,  and  Baldcap  form  their  heavily  outlined 
framework. 


JEFFERSON  HILL. 


Route  33.  229 


* Berlin  Falls  are  6 M.  N.  of  Gorham  by  a pleasant  river-road  (or  by 
the  railway).  The  Androscoggin  River  here  pours  the  waters  of  the 
distant  Umbagog  and  Rangeley  Lakes  in  “a  clean  and  powerful  tide 
through  a narrow  granite  pass,  descending  nearly  200  ft.  in  the  course  of  a 
mile.  We  do  not  think  that  in  New  England  there  is  any  passage  of  river 
passion  that  will  compare  with  the  Berlin  Falls.  How  madly  it  hurls 
the  deep  transparent  amber  down  the  pass  and  over  the  boulders,  — flying 
and  roaring  like  a drove  of  young  lions,  crowding  each  other  in  furious 
rush  after  prey  in  sight.  ” The  best  view  is  from  the  rocks  near  the  stream 
below  the  falls,  while  the -cataract  is  seen  in  mid-career  from  a bridge  over 
the  gorge.  Near  this  point  is  the  Berlin  Falls  House. 

From  Gorham  to  the  Notch, 

by  way  of  the  Waumbek  House,  is  32-34  M.,  and  the  road  is  richer  in 
scenery  than  any  other  in  the  mts.  No  stages  run  on  this  route,  but 
wagons  and  drivers  can  be  obtained  at  Gorham.  The  vast  and  uncon- 
cealed ranges  of  the  five  great  mts.  are  seen  for  mile  after  mile  in  their 
most  imposing  forms.  “ First  Madison  and  Adams  come  into  view,  and 
we  drive  directly  by  their  base  and  under  their  summits  in  passing  over 
Randolph  Hill.”  Beyond  the  deep  ravine  in  the  side  tff  Adams  the  castel- 
lated peak  of  Jefferson  is  seen,  and  soon  after  Mts.  Pleasant,  Franklin, 
and  Monroe  come  into  view.  From  Martin’s,  13  M.  from  Gorham,  Mt. 
Clay  is  visible,  and  just  beyond  is  the  majestic  head  of  Washington. 
Near  a little  red  school-house  in  this  vicinity,  George  L.  Brown  painted 
his  masterpiece,  “ The  Crown  of  New  England,”  now  owned  by  the 
Prince  of  Wales.  16-18  M.  from  Gorham  is  Jefferson  Hill,  “ the  ultima 
tliule  of  grandeur  in  an  artist’s  pilgrimage  among  the  N.  H.  Mts.,  for  at 
no  other  point  can  be  seen  the  White  Mts.  in  such  array  and  force.”  The 
* Waumbek  House  is  situated  here,  and  commands  superb  views  of  the 
great  peaks  in  the  S.  E.  “ For  grandeur  and  for  opportunities  of  study- 
ing the  wildness  and  majesty  of  the  sovereign  range,  the  Cherry  Mountain 
route  is  without  a rival  in  New  Hampshire,”  said  Thomas  Starr  King,  the 
gifted  Unitarian  divine,  who  wrote  the  admirable  book  called  “The  White 
Hills.”  Mr.  King  died  at  San  Francisco  in  1864,  and  his  noblest  (visible) 
monument  is  Mt.  Starr  King,  E.  of  Jefferson.  From  the  hotel  or  village 
the  bold  and  majestic  White  Mts.  loom  up  in  the  S.  E.,  and  a field-glass 
shows  the  trains  moving  up  Mt.  Washington,  and  the  hotels  on  its  sum- 
mit. Cherry  Mt.  fills  the  S.,  while  in  the  S.  W.  is  the  Franconia  Range, 
with  Lafayette  proudly  pre-eminent.  In  the  W.  are  the  pleasant  meadows 
which  border  the  Connecticut  River,  and  beyond  them  some  of  the 
Vermont  hills  are  seen.  Jefferson  Hill  is  7 M.  from  Lancaster,  10  M. 
from  Whitefield  ; 15  M.  from  Dalton  ; and  33  M.  from  the  Profile  House. 

The  road  to  the  Notch  (16  M.  distant)  runs  S.  from  the  Waumbek 


230  Route  33. 


UPPER  BARTLETT. 


House,  and  “for  5 M.  from  this  point  over  the  Jefferson  meadows,  in 
travelling  towards  the  Notch,  we  ride  in  full  view  of  every  summit  of  the 
chain,  seeing  Washington  in  the  centre  dominant  over  all.”  The  passage 
of  Cherry  Mt.  is  effected  by  a rough  and  tedious  road,  and  the  White  Mt . 
House  is  reached,  after  which  the  new  Fabyan  House  is  passed,  the 
Ammonoosuc  River  is  crossed,  and  the  carriage  reaches  the  Crawford 
House. 

There  is  a shorter  road  than  this,  between  Gorham  and  the  Notch,  and 
travellers  who  wish  to  go  by  Jefferson  Hill  should  have  the  fact  under- 
stood. This  route  can  be  taken  from  the  Glen* House,  without  going  to 
Gorham,  by  turning  to  the  1.  from  the  Gorham  road  about  2J  M.  N.  of 
the  Glen  House,  passing  around  the  base  of  Madison,  and  entering  the 
Cherry  Mt.  road  near  Randolph  Hill. 

N.  Ceway  to  the  Notch. 

The  route  is  the  same  as  that  to  the  Glen  House  as  far  as  Bartlett 
Corner,  where  the  Notch  road  diverges  to  the  W.,  and  crosses  in  succes- 
sion the  Ellis  River,  the  Rocky  Branch,  and  the  Saco  River.  The  latter 
stream  is  followed  up  to  its  birthplace,  leading,  at  first,  through  a glen 
between  the  Mote  Mts.  on  the  1.  and  Stanton  Mt.  on  the  r.  After  cross- 
ing the  Rocky  Branch,  the  White  Ledge  is  rounded  on  the  r.  at  the  E. 
end  of  Stanton  Mt.  Mt.  Carrigain  looms  up  far  ahead  with  its  triple  peaks 
(the  highest  of  which  rises  4,800  ft.),  and  the  road  passes  over  narrow 
intervales,  with  a fine  retrospect  of  Kiarsarge.  The  Chapel  of  the  Hills 
(a  neat  little  church  dedicated  in  1854)  is  passed  on  the  1.,  and  then  the 
Upper  Bartlett  House , where  passengers  by  the  morning  stages  take 
dinner.  This  rude  glen  was  settled  in  1777,  and  in  1790  was  named  in 
honor  of  J osiah  Bartlett,  a signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and 
at  that  time  President  of  N.  H.  The  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad 
is  now  being  built  through  the  Notch,  and  will,  at  no  distant  day,  meet 
the  section  of  track  which  is  being  laid  from  St.  Johnsbury  (Vermont) 
towards  the  mts.  Trains  will  run  in  the  summer  of  1873,  from  Portland 
and  N.  Conway  to  Upper  Bartlett.  Its  temporary  terminus  is  near  the 
great  ledge  running  out  to  the  road  (on  the  1. ),  known  as  Saivyer's  Rock. 

A solitary  hunter  named  Nash,  while  chasing  a moose  on  Cherry  Mt.,  saw  the 
Notch  opening  through  the  mts.,  and  entered  and  explored  it.  He  conceived  that 
a road  could  he  made  through  this  pass  to  connect  the  upper  Coos  country  with 
the  coast,  with  which  its  communication  was  then  made  by  a long  detour  around 
the  mts.  He  reported  his  discovery  to  Gov.  Wentworth  (in  1773),  who  told  him 
that  if  he  would  get  a horse  through  the  pass,  he  would  give  him  a large  grant  of 
land.  Nash  then  secured  the  aid  of  another  hunter  named  Sawyer,  and  they 
hauled  a horse  through,  lowering  him  over  cliffs  and  driving  him  through  the 
river,  until  they  emerged  here.  Then  Sawyer  drained  the  rum  from  his  bottle, 
and  broke  it  against  the  ledge,  which  he  named  Sawyer’s  Rock.  A road  was 
built  “ with  the  neat  proceeds  of  a confiscated  estate,”  and  the  first  article  of 
Coos  produce  sent  down  through  the  Notch  was  a barrel  of  tobacco,  while  the 
first  merchandise  sent  up  from  the  coast  was  a barrel  of  rum. 


THE  NOTCH. 


Route  33.  231 


Rounding  Hurt's  Ledge  the  road  now  turns  to  the  N.  and  crosses 
Sawyer’s  River,  which  has  its  source  in  Bemis  Pond,  4 - 5 M.  distant,  a 
locality  famous  for  trout.  Soon  after,  Nancy's  Brook  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge  thrown  over  a remarkable  ravine  200  ft.  long,  20  ft.  wide,  and  35 
ft.  deep.  This  pretty  brook  rises  in  a lonely  mountain  tarn  about  2J  M. 
from  the  road,  and  is  named  for  a luckless  maiden  who  walked  one  cold 
afternoon  or  night  from  Lancaster  to  this  point  in  pursuit  of  a faithless  lover. 
Wet,  chilled,  and  deathly  weary,  she  sat  down  by  a tree  near  this  brook, 
and  was  there  found  frozen  to  death.  Just  beyond  this  place,  on  the  1., 
is  seen  the  grave  of  Abel  Crawford,  “ the  patriarch  of  the  mountains,”  a 
pioneer  and  mountain-guide  of  many  years  ago.  After  passing  the  Mt. 
Crawford  House,  Mts.  Crawford  and  Resolution  and  the  Giant’s  Stairs 
are  seen  on  the  r.,  the  latter  towering  in  broken  masses  to  the  height  of 
5,500  ft.  The  forest  now  closes  in  on  the  road,  which  crosses  the  Saco 
near  the  foot  of  the  Giant’s  Stairs,  and  recrosses  it  about  a mile  beyond, 
with  a fine  view  up  the  long,  deep  gorge  to  the  r.  Turning  now  to  the 
N.  W.  the  road  enters  the  Notch,  with  the  vast  mass  of  Mt.  Webster  on 
the  r.,  towering  to  a height  of  4,000  ft.,  and  Willey  Mt.  on  the  1.  Passing 
over  the  tree-grown  fragments  of  the  mt.  which  have  fallen  in  long-past 
avalanches,  the  Willey  House  is  reached. 

The  great  amount  of  travel  through  the  Notch  in  winter,  caused  by  the  Coos 
farmers  carrying  their  produce  to  the  eastern  towns,  rendered  a hotel  here  very 
desirable.  So  this  house  was  built  about  1820  (Spaulding  says  in  1793),  and  was 
occupied  in  1825  by  Mr.  Willey.  In  August,  1826,  after  a long  drought  the  mts.  were 
assailed  by  a furious  storm,  which  caused  the  river  to  rise  rapidly,  and  during  the 
night  an  enormous  mass  of  earth,  rocks,  and  trees  slid  from  Mt.  Willey  into  the 
valley.  This  avalanche  was  split  by  a sharp  ledge  back  of  the  house,  and  flowed 
on  both  sides  without  harming  it.  But  the  family  had  left  the  house  (probably 
fearing  the  swelling  torrent  of  the  Saco),  and,  being  somewhere  in  the  track  of  the 
slide,  every  person  was  killed.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Willey  and  their  5 children,  with  2 
hired  men,  died  on  that  fatal  night,  and  6 of  the  bodies  were  found,  sadly  muti- 
lated. The  house  has  been  occupied  since  1827,  and  is  shown  to  visitors  for  a 
small  fee.  During  storms  rocks  are  sometimes  seen  plunging  down  from  the 
opposite  cliffs  of  Mt.  Webster.  In  1746,  when  a party  of  Rangers  were  marching 
through  a valley  near  the  more  southerly  of  the  White  Mts.  they  were  alarmed  by 
sounds  like  volleys  of  musketry  among  the  defiles.  Skirmishing  parties  of  scouts 
were  sent  in,  who  discovered  that  the  noise  was  caused  by  falling  rocks. 

After  leaving  the  Willey  House,  tlie  road  ascends  slowly  for  3 M., 
passes  through  the  narrow  Gate  of  the  Notch,  and  stops  at  the  * Crawford 
House.  This  is  a large  and  elegant  summer  hotel,  with  accommodations 
for  250  guests,  at  $ 4.50  a day.  It  is  situated  on  a plateau  2,000  ft.  above 
the  sea,  and  faces  the  Notch.  Near  the  house  are  two  springs  within 
stone’s-throw  of  each  other,  the  waters  of  one  of  which  pass  to  the  sea  by 
the  Connecticut  River,  while  the  other  empties  into  the  Saco,  and  reaches 
the  ocean  on  the  edast  of  Maine.  There  is  a pretty  lakelet  near  the  Gate 
of  the  Notch,  whence  flows  the  young  Saco  River. 

Mt.  Willard  is  easily  ascended  from  this  point  by  a carriage-road  2 M. 
long,  and  the  walk  upward  through  this  forest  avenue  is  full  of  pleasure. 


232  Route  33. 


CRAWFORD  HOUSE. 


The  **  view  down  the  Notch  is  wonderful,  embracing  two  Titanic  mt. 
walls,  beginning  with  Webster  on  the  1.  and  Willey  on  the  r.,  and  running 
S.  for  leagues,  with  haughty  Chocorua,  18-20  M.  away,  closing  the  vista. 
The  highway  down  this  wild  pass  is  marked  by  a slender  line  through  the 
forest,  and  the  Willey  House  is  a mere  dot  on  its  ruin-swept  lowlands. 
Bayard  Taylor  says  of  this  view,  “As  a simple  picture  of  a mountain- 
pass,  seen  from  above,  it  cannot  be  surpassed  in  all  Switzerland.”  Look- 
ing off  to  the  N.  E.,  the  great  peaks  of  the  Mt.  Washington  group  are 
seen,  with  Clinton  first  and  nearest,  and  Jackson  on  the  upper  end  of  Mt. 
Webster.  u And  let  us  again  advise  visitors  to  ascend  Mt.  Willard,  if 
possible,  late  in  the  afternoon.  They  will  then  see  one  long  wall  of  the 
Notch  in  shadow,  and  can  watch  it  move  slowly  up  the  curves  of  the 
opposite  side,  displacing  the  yellow  splendor,  while  the  dim  green  dome 
of  Washington  is  gilded  by  the  sinking  sun  ‘ with  heavenly  alchemy.’  ” 
(Starr  King.  ) 

The  Flume  and  the  Silver  Cascade  are  visited  by  passing  through  the 
narrow  and  ragged-walled  Gate  of  the  Notch,  and  about  J M.  from  the 
hotel  turning  into  the  forest  to  the  1.  by  a little  brook.  A series  of  long 
cascades  lies  along  the  slope  above,  and  near  the  road  is  a deep  and  nar- 
row cleft  in  the  rock,  through  which  the  waters  flow.  A long  scramble 
over  rocky  ledges  and  up  the  course  of  the  laughing  water  leads  to  the 
base  of  the  * Silver  Cascade,  the  finest  fall  on  the  W.  of  the  mts.  The 
brook  falls  800  ft.  within  a mile,  and  after  a heavy  rain  exhibits  a mag- 
nificent effect.  Near  the  bridge  it  flows  through  a narrow  flume,  and  soon 
enters  the  Saco. 

The  * Sylvan  Glade  Cataract  is  6 - 7 M.  from  the  hotel,  and  is  gained 
by  following  up  Avalanche  Brook  (the  second  which  the  road  crosses  S. 
of  the  Willey  House).  About  2 M.  from  the  road,  in  a granite-walled 
ravine,  the  brook  falls  25  - 30  ft.  in  4 leaps,  and  then  forms  a cascade  150 
ft.  long,  slipping  over  inclined  ledges  of  granite  into  a deep  pool  below. 
About  1 M.  higher  is  the  Sparkling  Cascade.  These  falls  were  discovered 
in  1858. 

Gibbs’s  Falls  are  near  the  hotel,  and  are  found  by  following  up  the 
aqueduct  from  the  stables,  and  then  the  brook  to  which  it  leads.  10  - 15 
minutes’  walk  up  stream  brings  one  to  a pretty  fall  of  about  30  ft.,  with 
pleasing  forest  accessories. 

Beecher’s  Falls  are  on  the  slope  of  Mt.  Lincoln,  to  the  r.  of  the  hotel, 
and  are  gained  by  a good  forest-path.  The  Falls  extend  for  a long  dis- 
tance up  the  brook,  and  from  the  uppermost  of  them  a fine  view  of  Mt. 
Washington  is  disclosed.  The  Devil’s  Den  is  a dark  cavern  seen  from  the 
Notch  road,  near  the  summit  of  Mt.  Willard.  Pulpit  Rock  is  on  the  r. 
of  the  road,  near  the  Gate  of  the  Notch,  and  several  rock-profiles  have 
been  seen  on  the  adjacent  cliffs. 


GORHAM. 


Route  33.  233 


Stages  from  the  Crawford  House  to  Bethlehem,  $2.50;  to  N.  Conway,  $3.50; 
to  the  mountain-railway,  $2.50  ; and  to  the  Glen  House,  $5.00.  The  latter  route 
runs  to  Bartlett  on  the  road  to  N.  Conway,  and  at  that  point  enters  the  road  from 
N.  Conway  to  the  Glen  House.  Fare  to  Boston,  by  stage  to  N.  Conway  and  rail- 
road to  Boston,  $8.50. 

The  Crawford  House  to  the  Profile  House. 

Daily  stages  in  26 J M.  Fare,  $ 4.00.  After  leaving  the  hotel,  the  road 
enters  a dense  forest,  where  it  is  “more  pleasantly  bordered  with  foliage 
than  any  other  among  the  hills.”  On  leaving  this  forest,  a broad  upland 
plain  is  entered,  and  the  stage  approaches  the  great  new  hotel  on  the 
Giant's  Grave. 

The  new  * Fabyan  House  is  5 M.  N.  of  the  Notch,  and  accommo- 
dates 500  guests.  It  was  built  in  1872,  and  is  4 stories  high,  with  a 
frontage  of  330  ft.  This  imposing  structure  is  built  on  the  Giant’s  Grave, 
a tall  mound  near  the  Ammonoosuc  River.  According  to  tradition,  an 
Indian  once  stood  here  at  night,  and  swinging  a torch  lit  from  a lightning- 
struck  tree,  cried,  “No  pale-face  shall  take  deep  root  here ; this  the 
Great  Spirit  whispered  in  my  ear.”  A tavern  was  opened  here  about 
1803,  and  in  1819  it  was  burnt,  while  the  same  fate  befell  another  erected 
on  its  site,  and  Fabyan’s  large  hotel,  at  the  foot  of  the  mound,  was  also 
burnt.  The  new  hotel  is  larger,  stronger,  and  better  protected  than  its 
predecessors,  and  will  probably  remain.  Ethan  Allen  Crawford,  “ Ethan 
of  the  Hills,”  a gigantic  hunter  and  guide,  lived  on  the  Giant’s  Grave 
many  years  ago,  and  waged  war  on  the  wolves,  wild-cats,  bears,  sables, 
and  otters  that  dwelt  among  the  surrounding  hills  and  brooks. 

The  view  from  this  point  is  very  fine,  and  embraces  all  the  presidential 
peaks  save  one,  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington  being  7J  M.  distant  in  an 
air-line.  The  other  summits  stretch  toward  the  hotel  in  a long  and  rugged 
chain.  From  this  point  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington  by  rail  is  easily 
made.  The  Upper  Ammonoosuc  Falls  are  3 - 4 M.  from  the  hotel,  by  the 
road  to  Marshfield,  and  exhibit  a beautiful  scene,  where  white  waters 
dash  down  between  gray  granite  walls,  and  the  vast  mts.  tower  beyond. 
The  Lower  Ammonoosuc  Falls  are  somewhat  more  than  1 M.  distant,  on 
the  Bethlehem  road.  The  river  descends  here  in  full  stream  over  30  ft. 
of  step-like  ledges,  but  the  natural  beauty  of  the  scene  has  been  marred 
by  the  intrusion  of  a large  lumber-mill. 

The  White  Mt.  House  (f>  2.50  a day)  is  an  old  and  well-famed  hotel  at 
the  junction  of  the  Cherry  Mt.  and  Bethlehem  roads,  less  than  1 M.  N. 
W.  of  the  great  Fabyan  House.  The  vicinity  abounds  in  pleasant  walks, 
especially  those  along  the  Ammonoosuc,  while  the  sunset  views  from  the 
hills  are  of  famed  attractiveness. 

The  * Twin  Mt.  House  is  5 M.  westward  from  the  Fabyan  House,  and 
is  a favorite  new  hotel,  under  the  care  of  the  Messrs.  Barron,  proprietors 
of  the  White  River  Junction  and  Crawford  Houses.  It  is  pleasantly 


234  Route  S3. 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


situated  on  the  heights  above  the  Ammonoosuc  River,  and  looks  across 
the  valley  to  the  bold  peaks  of  Twin  Mt.  The  branch  railroad  which 
leaves  the  B.,  C.,  & M.  R.  R.  (Route  30)  at  Wing  Road , has  its  present 
terminus  at  this  hotel  (it  is  to  be  extended,  eventually,  to  the  Ammonoo- 
suc station  of  the  Mt.  Washington  Railway).  The  Twin  Mt.  House  is  9 
M.  from  the  Crawford  House  ; 10  M.  from  the  mt.  railway;  11  M.  from 
the  Waumbek  House  ; and  17  M.  from  the  Profile  House.  Stages  run  to 
all  these  points,  except  the  Waumbek  House. 

Beyond  the  Twin  Mt.  House  the  road  follows  the  Ammonoosuc  River, 
and  in  about  5 M.  ascends  the  rolling  ridges  of  Bethlehem,  from  which 
fine  prospects  of  the  loftier  mts.  are  given.  Between  Bethlehem  station 
(on  the  branch  track)  and  the  village,  the  stage  passes  the  neat  little 
Maplewood  Hotel  ($  3.00  a day,  $ 14.00  a week).  Bethlehem  (*  Sinclair 
House , and  several  large  boarding-houses)  is  a pretty  highland  village, 
which  commands,  down  the  Ammonoosuc  valley,  one  of  the  finest  distant 
views  of  the  White  Mts.  This  town  was  settled  in  1790,  and  the  first 
comers  suffered  great  hardships,  being  obliged  for  months  to  subsist  on 
herbs  and  roots  from  the  forests  and  fields.  Bethlehem  is  5 M.  from 
Littleton;  17  M.  from  the  White  Mt.  Notch;  10  M.  from  the  Profile 
House  ; and  22J  M.  from  Mt.  Washington. 

Beyond  Bethlehem,  the  road  (a  very  bad  one)  ascends  a long  hill,  afford- 
ing fine  retrospects,  and  when  its  summit  is  gained  the  great  * Franconia 
Range  is  seen  in  front.  A deep  valley  is  now  crossed,  the  new  Lafayette  . 
House  is  passed  (about  5 M,  from  Bethlehem),  and  after  a long  ascent  the 
stage  reaches  the  Profde  House  (see  Route  34). 

Mount  Washington. 

Travellers  who  design  to  ascend  this  mt.  should  be  careful  to  carry  sufficient 
warm  clothing  (shawls,  overcoats,  &c.),  for  the  air  on  the  summit  is  often  ex- 
tremely cold,  even  in  August.  Daniel  Webster  said  here,  “Mt.  Washington,  I 
have  come  a long  distance,  have  toiled  hard  to  arrive  at  your  summit,  and  now 
you  seem  to  give  me  a cold  reception.”  There  are  many  who  will  echo  these 
words.  If  the  ascent  from  the  Crawford  House  or  from  Randolph  Hill  is  under- 
taken, a reliable  guide  must  be  secured,  and  an  early  start  should  be  made.  The 
view  from  the  summit  cannot  be  confidently  counted  upon,  since  the  mt.  is  often 
enveloped  in  suddenly  rising  fogs,  and  the  days  when  the  remote  points  of  view 
are  visible  are  very  few.  A powerful  field-glass  will  be  found  of  material  assist- 
ance. 

The  older  hotels  (the  Summit  and  the  Tip-Top  Houses)  still  remain  on  the  narrow 
crest,  and  the  railway  company  has  recently  erected  a new  hotel  of  considerable 
capacity  and  with  good  accommodations. 

The  ascent  by  railway.  The  terminal  station  on  the  plain  is  at  Ammonoosuc 
station  (small  hotel),  to  which  morning  aud  afternoon  stages  run  from  the  Craw- 
ford House  (10  M.  ; fare,  $2.50,  there  and  back,  $4.00)  ; from  the  Twin  Mt.  House 
(11  M.  ; fare,  $2.50,  there  and  back,  $4.00);  and  from  the  new  Fabyan  House 
(5-6  M.).  From  the  opening  of  the  season  until  July  20tli,  trains  leave  Ammo- 
noosuc at  10.30  a.  m.,  returning  at  2 p.  m.  From  July  20th,  until  the  close  of 
the  season,  an  additional  train  is  put  on,  leaving  at  5.30  P.  M.,  and  returning  at  8 
the  following  morning  (time-table  of  1872).  T\je  fare  is  $3.00  for  the  ascent  or 
descent,  and  $4.00  for  both.  Trunks  must  be  paid  for  as  freight. 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


Route  33.  235 


This  railway  was  built  in  1866-9,  on  the  plans  of  Sylvester  Marsh, 
who  has  since  constructed  a similar  road  up  Mount  Rhigi,  by  the  Lake  of 
Lucerne.  Ammonoosuc  Station  is  2,668  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  the  track 
ascends  3,625  ft.  in  3 M.,  with  an  average  grade  of  1 ft.  in  4J,  and  a 
maximum  grade  of  1 ft.  in  2§,  or  1,980  ft.  to  the  M.  The  chief  peculiarity 
of  the  track  is  a heavy  notched  iron  centre-rail,  into  which  plays  a centre 
cog-wheel  on  the  locomotive.  The  steam-power  is  not  used  during  the 
descent,  but  the  powerful  atmospheric  brakes  regulate  the  speed  of  the 
train.  The  cars  are  very  comfortable,  and  the  ascent  is  made  in  90 
minutes,  during  which  time  it  is  pleasant  to  think  that,  though  these 
trains  have  been  running  for  5 years,  not  a single  passenger  has  been 
injured.  As  the  train  slowly  ascends  over  the  trestles,  pushed  by  the 
grotesque  little  engine,  the  retrospect  becomes  more  and  more  beautiful, 
and  a profound  and  gloomy  chasm  is  passed  on  the  r.  The  ridge  between 
Clay  and  Washington  is  now  attained,  and  an  immense  mt.  amphitheatre 
is  passed  on  the  1.,  soon  after  which  the  train  crawls  up  Jacob’s  Ladder, 
and  stops  at  the  new  station  and  hotel  on  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington. 

The  ascent  from  the  Glen  House.  Mountain  carriages  leave  the  Glen  House 
morning  and  afternoon  for  the  summit,  which  is  8 M.  distant.  The  fare  (including 
tolls)  is  $ 5.00,  and  the  time  of  ascent  3 hrs.,  while  the  descent  is  made  in  hrs. 
The  road  (built  1855-61)  is  a noble  piece  of  engineering,  winding  on  galleries  and 
long  curves,  with  an  average  grade  of  12  ft.  in  100. 

Most  of  the  route  to  the  Ledge  (4  M.  up)  is  enclosed  by  forests,  but 
beyond  this  point  the  road  passes  along  the  verge  of  the  profound  hollow 
called  the  Great  Gulf.  From  this  point  the  * view  is  superb,  embracing 
the  Peabody  Glen,  with  the  hotel  lying  like  a snow-flake  at  the  base  of 
the  heavy,  green  mass  of  Carter  Mt.  “ Yet  the  glory  of  the  view  is,  after 
all,  the  four  highest  companion  mts.  of  the  range,  Clay,  J efferson,  Adams? 
and  Madison,  that  show  themselves  in  a bending  line  beyond  the  tremen 
dous  gorge,  and  are  visible  from  their  roots  to  their  summits.”  With  one 
exception  ce  there  is  no  such  view  to  be  had,  east  of  the  Mississippi,  of 
mountain  architecture  and  sublimity.”  The  road  now;passes  along  the 
verge  of  the  Great  Gulf,  with  the  lofty  gray  peaks  on  the  r.,  winds  and 
twists  over  dreary  slopes  covered  with  the  skeletons  of  dead  trees  and 
the  flora  of  Labrador,  surmounts  shoulder  after  shoulder  of  the  storm- 
eaten  mt. , climbs  the  sharp,  steep,  supreme  cone,  and  then  the  panting 
horses  stop  “ on  the  main-top  of  New  England.’ 

The  ascent  from  the  Crawford  House.  The  old  bridle-path  (9  M.  long) 
offers  peculiar  attractions,  as  passing  over  several  noble  summits,  and  horses 
may  be  procured  at  the  hotel.  The  ascent  should  never  be  made  without 
a guide,  since  sudden  storms  or  the  descending  of  fog-banks  might  cause  the 
traveller  to  lose  his  way  and  become  fatally  confused  among  the  ravines. 

Upon  leaving  the  hotel  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Clinton  is  commenced,  and 
after  passing  over  a rude  forest-path  for  nearly  3 M.  the  mossy  summit  is 


236  Route  S3. 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


reached  (4,200  ft.  above  the  sea).  A great  expanse  of  blue  peaks  is  seen 
from  this  point,  with  bright  lakes  on  the  S.  E.,  and  Kiarsarge,  “the 
queenly  mt.,”  lifting  its  pyramidal  cone  in  the  same  direction.  The  path 
now  descends  into  a dense  forest,  crosses  two  or  three  bridged  ravines,  and 
passes  around  the  S.  side  of  the  dome-like  peak  of  Mt.  Pleasant.  A 
path  diverges  to  the  summit  (4,800  ft,  high),  whence  the  old  and  disused 
Fabyan  trail  leads  down  to  the  Ammonoosuc  valley.  The  round  and 
grassy  summit  of  Pleasant  overlooks  the  whole  extent  of  the  valley.  The 
tracks  of  formidable  slides  are  seen  as  the  path  descends  to  another 
plateau,  and,  passing  Red  Pond,  clambers  up  Mt.  Franklin.  The  summit 
(4,900  ft.  high)  is  near  the  path,  and  commands  a vast  prospect  terminated 
by  Cliocorua,  almost  due  S.  and  20  M.  distant.  Between  Franklin  and 
Monroe  the  path  passes  over  a narrow  ridge  which  is  the  water-shed  of 
the  Connecticut  and  Saco  Rivers.  There  are  one  or  two  dangerous  places 
on  this  thin  and  lofty  escarpment,  and  on  the  r.  is  the  deep  and  terrible 
chasm  of  Oakes’  Gulf,  while  the  Ammonoosuc  valley  stretches  away  on 
the  other  hand.  This  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  points  of  view  in  the 
mts.  Monroe  is  now  rounded  on  the  S.  side,  and  the  rough  scramble  to  its 
E.  peak  (5,300  ft.  high)  is  rewarded  by  another  vast  prospect.  Mt. 
Washington  now  looms  ahead  as  the  path  descends  to  the  plateau  on 
which  are  the  Lake  of  the  Clouds  and  Star  Lake,  two  deep  and  crystalline 
tarns  where  the  Ammonoosuc  is  born.  1J  M.  from  the  lakes  is  the  bleak 
crest  of  Washington,  and  from  the  E.  verge  of  the  plateau  is  afforded  a 
remarkable  view  down  Tuckerman’s  Ravine.  There  remains  a sharp 
ascent  among  the  rocks  on  the  S.  W.  side  of  the  peak,  Avith  a rise  equal  to 
1,200  ft.  perpendicular,  and  then  the  summit  is  gained. 

The  ascent  from  Randolph  Hill  is  only  practicable  for  strong  and 
practised  pedestrians,  accompanied  by  reliable  guides.  A feAV  such  parties 
have  accomplished  this  feat  with  very  satisfactory  results.  Guides  may 
be  heard  of  at  the  Gorham  hotels,  — Calhaine  is  one  of  the  best,  — and 
arrangements  should  be  made  to  encamp  over  night  on  the  ridge,  although 
the  ascent  may  be  crowded  into  a single  day.  Riding  to  Randolph  Hill 
at  early  morning,  Mt.  Madison  is  ascended  in  4-5  hrs.  by  the  old  Gor- 
don path,  leading  along  a brook  Avhich  flows  into  Moose  River.  The 
ravine  through  which  this  brook  flows  is  full  of  gloomy  grandeur,  and  is 
surrounded  by  stupendous  walls  of  rock.  The  path  leads  out  on  the 
ridge  between  Adams  and  Madison.  The  latter  is  rarely  visited  on  this 
excursion,  since  it  lies  off  the  route,  but  the  noble  pyramid  of  Adams  is 
crossed,  opening  a striking  * view.  On  the  N.  the  mts.  of  Kilkenny, 
Randolph,  and  Gorham,  with  the  long  valley  of  the  Androscoggin,  and  in 
the  remote  distance  the  lakes  of  Umbagog  and  Rangeley.  The  Glen  and 
the  green  Avail  of  Carter  Mt.  are  on  the  E.,  while  the  vast  dome  of  Wash- 
ington is  uplifted  in  the  S.  Crossing  now  the  bending  ridge  to  Mt.  Jeffer- 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


Route  33.  237 


son,  a continual  front  view  of  Washington  is  afforded,  and  after  passing 
over  Jefferson  the  Great  Gulf  is  seen  bending  around  on  the  1.  Mt.  Clay 
is  now  ascended,  and,  after  a short  descent,  the  long  slope  of  Washington 
is  climbed  to  the  summit. 

The  Fabyan  path  from  the  Giant’s  Grave  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Pleasant, 
and  thence  over  Franklin  and  Monroe  to  Mt.  Washington,  is  now  dis- 
used ; while  the  old  bridle-path  from  the  W.  slope,  and  the  Davis  path 
from  the  Mt.  Crawford  House,  are  but  rarely  traversed.  The  railway 
and  carriage  routes  are  the  favorites,  the  first  being  easier  and  cheaper, 
and  the  last  being  richer  in  scenery. 

The  * * view  from  Mt. Washington  is  the  most  grand  and  extensive  in 
New  England.  In  the  S.  is  the  Giant  Stairs  Mt.  and  the  round  top  of 
Mt.  Crawford,  with  Chocorua  farther  away,  and  Ossipee  near  the  gleam 
of  Lake  Winnepesaukee,  35  M.  distant.  S.  of  W.  is  Mt.  Carrigain,  and 
the  noble  peaks  of  the  Sandwich  Range  are  beyond,  while  100  M.  away 
is  Monadnoek,  u a filmy  angle  in  the  base  of  the  sky.”  To  the  S.  W.  the 
peaks  of  Monroe,  Franklin,  Pleasant,  and  Clinton  stretch  off  in  a straight 
line,  while  the  dark  crests  of  Franconia  fill  the  W. , overlooked  by  the 
bald  cone  of  Lafayette.  Across  the  Connecticut  are  remote  blue  sum- 
mits of  the  Green  Mts.,  with  Mt.  Mansfield  and  the  Camel’s  Hump,  70 
M.  away.  Stretching  toward  the  N.  W.,  only  a few  miles  distant,  are 
Cherry  Mt.,  Mt.  Starr  King,  and  the  hills  of  Kilkenny,  over  which  the 
! graceful  Percy  Peaks  (Stratford)  are  seen,  “ as  near  alike  in  size  and 
shape  as  two  Dromios.”  Clay,  Jefferson,  Adams,  and  Madison  loom 
across  the  Great  Gulf  in  the  N.  and  N.  W.  Glimpses  of  the  Androscoggin 
are  next  obtained,  and  35  - 50  M.  W.  of  N.  Lake  Umbagog  and  the 
Rangeley  Lakes  are  seen,  with  the  dim  Canadian  highlands  far  to  the  N. 
A vast  area  of  the  State  of  Maine  is  outspread  in  the  E.,  and  it  is  claimed 
that  Mt.  Katahdin  may  be  seen  “ looming  out  of  the  central  wilderness 
of  Maine,  cutting  the  yellowish  horizon  with  the  hue  of  Damascus  steel.” 
But  Katahdin  is  150  M.  distant.  Mts.  Hayes,  Moriah,  and  Carter  are 
seen  more  surely  in  the  N.  E.  The  lofty  hills  over  Chatham  fill  the 
nearer  E.,  and  the  eye  follows  down  Pinkham  Notch  to  N.  Conway  on  its 
fair  meadows,  with  Kiarsarge  impending  above.  Beyond  are  seen  Love- 
well’s  Pond,  by  Fryeburg,  and  the  bright  Sebago  Lake,  while  the  ocean  is 
sometimes  visible  in  the  remote  S.  E.,  merging  with  the  weary  horizon. 

* Tucker  mall’s  Ravine  is  usually  visited  from  the  summit,  and  is  1J 
M.  distant  by  a difficult  path  (guide  necessary).  It  is  also  visited  from 
! the  Glen  House  (5  M.  away),  and  by  a path  'which  leaves  the  mt.  road  2 
M.  from  the  Glen,  and  runs  for  2J  M.  through  the  forest  to  Hermit  Lake. 
This  is  in  the  vast  Mountain  Coliseum  (so  called),  whose  lofty  curving 
precipice-walls  reach  an  altitude  of  1,000  ft.  or  more.  Immense  masses 
of  snow  are  piled  up  here,  and  usually  remain  until  August.  The  Crystal 


238  Route  34-  THE  FRANCONIA  MOUNTAINS. 


Stream  flows  down  under  this  incipient  glacier  and  cuts  a long  arch  under 
the  hardened  snow,  through  which  one  can  walk  for  hundreds  of  feet. 
The  cliffs  back  of  the  ravine  are  striped,  after  rains,  with  falling  waters, 
called  the  “ Fall  of  a Thousand  Streams.”  After  exploring  this  wonder- 
ful abyss,  parties  sometimes  pass  to  the  Glen  House  by  following  the 
Crystal  Stream,  with  its  many  cascades,  to  the  N.  Conway  road. 


34.  The  Franconia  Mountains  and  Pemigewasset  Valley. 

From  New  York  to  Franconia  by  Hartford,  Springfield,  Wells  River,  and  Little- 
ton ; by  Albany,  Rutland,  Bellows  Falls,  and  Littleton  ; by  Springfield,  Nashua, 
and  Concord  ; or  by  boat  to  New  London,  and  thence  to  Brattleboro,  Wells  River, 
and  Littleton.  The  connections  are  frequently  changed,  and  the  tourist  should 
get  a late  time-table  and  railway-guide  before  choosing  his  route. 

From  Boston  to  Franconia  by  Route  33  (stages  through  the  mts.)  and  Route  31 
to  N.  Conway ; or  by  Route  30  to  Plymouth  (123  M.),  and  thence  by  stage  (29  M.) 
to  the  Profile  House  ; by  Route  30  .to  Littleton  (185  M.),  and  thence  by  stage  (11* 
M.)  to  the  Profile  House.  By  either  of  the  latter  routes,  tourists  may  leave  Bos- 
ton at  8 A.  M.  and  arrive  at  the  Profile  House  early  in  the  evening.  By  Route  31 
to  Wolf  boro,  or  by  Route  38  to  Alton  Bay,  and  thence  traversing  Lake  Winnepe- 
saukee  by  steamer,  the  tourist  can  take  Route  30  (to  Plymouth  or  Littleton)  at 
Weirs. 

Daily  stages  leave  for  the  Profile  House,  from  Littleton  (11  M.  N.  ; fare,  $2.00)  ; 
from  the  Crawford  House  (26£  M.  E.  ; fare,  $4.00)  ; and  from  Plymouth  (29  M.  S.  ; 
fare,  $4.00). 

The  * Profile  House.  (1,974  ft.  above  the  sea)  accommodates  4-500 
guests,  and  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  mt.  hotels.  Its  corridors  are  crowded 
during  the  summer  with  visitors  from  the  coast-cities,  and  its  dining-hall 
is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  New  England.  This  hotel  is  open  from  June  1st 
until  the  middle  of  October;  its  terms  are  $4.50  a day,  with  reductions 
for  a long  sojourn. 

The*  Franconia  Notch  is  about  5 M.  long,  and  less  than  J M.  wide, 
and  is  on  the  western  verge  of  the  Franconia  Range  proper.  “The 
narrow  district  thus  enclosed  contains  more  objects  of  interest  to  the 
mass  of  travellers  than  any  other  region  of  equal  extent  within  the  com- 
pass of  the  usual  White  Mt.  tour.  In  the  way  of  rock-sculpture  and 
waterfalls  it  is  a huge  museum  of  curiosities.”  (Starr  King.)  “The 
scenery  of  Franconia  is  more  fantastic  and  beautiful  than  Dalecarlia  or 
Norsland.”  (Fredrika  Bremer.) 

* Echo  Lake  is  a short  distance  N.  of  the  hotel,  on  the  r.  of  the  Little- 
ton road,  and  is  a calm,  deep,  and  lovely  sheet  of  transparent  water, 
encircled  by  rare  scenery.  During  the  day  it  reflects  vividly  the  sur- 
rounding objects,  but  the  later  hours  of  the  afternoon  are  the  pleasantest, 
when  the  visitor  can  be  transported  over  the  quiet  waters  and  see  the 
forest-shores  and  mts.  in  the  flush  of  evening.  Remarkable  echoes  are 
awakened  here  by  the  bugle,  voice,  or  pistol-shots.  “ Franconia  is  more 
fortunate  in  its  little  tarn  that  is  rimmed  by  the  undisturbed  wilderness, 
and  watched  by  the  grizzled  peak  of  Lafayette,  than  in  the  Old  Stone 
Face  from  which  it  has  gained  so  much  celebrity.” 


THE  FRANCONIA  MOUNTAINS.  Route  34.  239 


Bald  Mt.  is  ascended  by  a neglected  carriage-road,  which  diverges  to 
the  r.  from  the  road  about  1 M.  N.  of  the  hotel.  The  view  from  the 
summit  is  pleasing,  especially  just  before  sunset,  when,  besides  the  noble 
hills  to  the  N.  and  the  huge,  conical  Haystack  Mt.  to  the  E. , a fine  south- 
erly prospect  is  given,  embracing  the  narrow  notch,  with  Lafayette  tower- 
ing on  the  1.  and  Mt.  Profile  on  the  r.  Echo  Lake  is  seen  in  the  nearer 
foreground. 

Profile  Mt.,  or  Mt.  Cannon,  is  ascended  by  a steep  foot-path  S.  of  the 
hotel,  in  2 - 3 hrs.  The  * view  is  of  great  beauty,  including  the  Bethle- 
hem heights  on  the  N.,  with  Haystack,  Lafayette,  and  the  Mt.  Washing- 
ton group  on  the  E.  and  N.  E.  On  the  S.,  between  Mts.  Pemigewasset 
and  Liberty,  stretches  far  into  the  distance  the  fair  and  fruitful  valley  of 
the  Pemigewasset  River.  On  the  summit  is  a rock  which  is  supposed  to 
resemble  a cannon,  and  visitors  often  descend  thence  to  the  vicinity  of 
the  ledges  which  form  the  Profile.  On  the  slope  of  this  mt.  (and  reached 
by  following  the  aqueduct  into  the  woods  back  of  the  old  Lafayette 
House)  is  a lively  brook  which  exhibits  some  fine  cascades  after  heavy 
rains.  Good  views  of  Echo  Lake  and  Eagle  Cliff,  with  the  highland  val- 
leys to  the  N.,  may  be  obtained  from  the  brookside. 

* * The  Profile  is  best  seen  from  a point  by  the  roadside  (marked  by  a 
guide-board)  a few  rods  S.  of  the  hotel.  1,500  ft.  above  the  road,  three 
enormous  masses  of  rock  project  from  the  side  of  the  mt.,  in  the  exact 
resemblance  of  the  profile  of  an  old  man’s  face,  with  firmly  drawn  chin, 
lips  slightly  parted,  and  a well-proportioned  nose  surmounted  by  a mas- 
sive brow.  It  is  “ a mountain  which  breaks  into  human  expression,  a 
piece  of  sculpture  older  than  the  Sphinx,  an  intimation  of  the  human 
countenance,  which  is  the  crown  of  all  beauty,  that  was  pushed  out  from 
the  coarse  strata  of  New  England  thousands  of  years  before  Adam. 
The  legend  of  “ The  Great  Stone  Face,”  as  told  by  Hawthorne,  belongs 
to  this  place.  Directly  below  the  Profile  (which  is  60  ft.  long)  and  near 
the  road,  is  the  crystal  tarn  called  Profile  Lake,  or  the  Old  Man’s  Wash- 
bowl, a sequestered  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  from  whose  bosom  is 
obtained  a pleasing  sunset  view  of  the  majestic  Eagle  Cliff.  This  is  the 
best  point  from  which  to  see  that  lofty  and  remarkable  cliff  (1,500  ft. 
high)  which  projects  from  the  mt.  opposite  the  Profile  House.  Near 
Profile  Lake  is  the  Trout-house,  containing  many  tame  breeding-trout. 

Mt.  Lafayette,  “ the  Duke  of  Western  Coos,”  is  5,200  ft.  high,  and  is 
ascended  by  a bridle-path  diverging  to  the  1.  from  the  road,  midway  be- 
tween the  Profile  and  Flume  Houses  (2J  M.  from  each).  The  path  is 
steep  and  arduous,  but  the  ascent  may  easily  be  accomplished  in  3 - 4 hrs. , 
with  horses  and  guides  from  the  Profile  House.  After  a long  ascent 
through  the  dense  forest  which  covers  the  lower  slopes,  the  path  emerges 
(near  the  bright  Lake  of  the  Storm  King)  upon  a bare  and  rugged  tract 


240  Route  34.  THE  FEANCONIA  MOUNTAINS. 


which  affords  an  extensive  off-look.  The  * view  from  the  summit  is 
broad  and  beautiful,  with  the  Pemigewasset  valley  as  its  most  pleasing 
feature,  stretching  S.  to  Plymouth  (20  M.  distant).  The  clustering 
Pemigewasset  Mts.  are  seen  in  the  S.  W. ; “ but  the  lowlands  are  the 
glory  of  the  spectacle  which  Lafayette  shows  his  guests.  The  valleys  of 
the  Connecticut  and  Merrimac  are  spread  W.  and  S.  W.  and  S.  With 
what  pomp  of  color  are  their  growing  harvests  inlaid  upon  the  floor  of 
New  England!”  Mts.  Monadnock  (90  M. ) and  Kearsarge  (over  50  M.) 
are  W.  of  S.,  while  certain  peaks  of  the  Green  Mts.  of  Vermont  are  in 
the  distant  W.  In  the  N.  W.  and  N.  are  the  bright  villages  of  Littleton 
and  Lancaster,  with  the  rural  districts  of  upper  Cods,  while  the  Profile 
and  Echo  Lakes  are  close  below  in  the  glen  over  which  Profile  Mt.  towers. 
The  Percy  Peaks  are  nearly  due  N.  beyond  the  Lunenburg  Hills,  and 
Haystack  Mt.  lifts  its  huge  mass  close  at  hand  in  the  N.  E.  E.  and  N. 
E.,  15-20  M.  distant,  is  the  great  presidential  group,  with  Mt.  Wash- 
ington nobly  overlooking  the  rest. 

The  * Flume  House  is  a small,  but  new  and  well-conducted  hotel,  5 M. 
S.  of  (and  pertaining  to)  the  Profile  House.  Mt.  Liberty  is  opposite  the 
house,  and  Mt.  Pemigewasset  is  behind  it,  while  the  rich  southern  valley 
is  seen  for  leagues  from  this  position.  The  last-named  mt.  is  often  as- 
cended for  a few  hundred  ft.,  toward  the  sunset  hour,  when  “ the  spurs 
and  hollows  of  Lafayette  and  his  associates  are  lighted  up  by  the  splendor 
that  pours  into  them  from  the  vrest.”  About  2 M.  N.  of  the  Flume 
House  a succession  of  pretty  cascades  may  be  found  by  ascending  the 
course  of  a brook  which  crosses  the  road.  1 M.  N.  of  the  house,  by  the 
roadside,  is  the  Basin , a granite  bowl  60  ft.  in  circumference  and  10  ft. 
deep,  filled  with  clear  water.  “ The  best  way  to  enjoy  the  beauty  of  the 
Basin  is  to  ascend  to  the  highest  of  the  cascades  that  slide  along  a mile 
of  the  mountain  at  the  W.  Then  follow  down  by  their  pathways,  as 
they  make  the  rocks  now  white  with  foam,  now  glassy  with  thin,  smooth, 
transparent  sheets,  till  they  mingle  their  water  with  the  Pemigewasset  at 
the  foot,  and,  pouring  their  common  treasury  around  the  groove  worn  in 
the  rocky  roof,  fall  with  musical  splash  into  the  shadowed  reservoir  be- 
neath.” 

The  Pool  is  gained  in  20  minutes  by  a path  leading  into  the  forest  op- 
posite the  house.  It  is  a basin  cut  in  the  solid  rock,  150  ft.  wide  and 
over  100  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  path,  with  40  ft.  depth  of  dark,  cold 
water.  Visitors  can  descend  to  the  level  of  the  water,  where  an  eccentric 
hermit  dwells  in  a rude  boat.  A rough  path  leads  thence  to  the  Flume; 
but  if  there  are  ladies  in  the  party,  it  is  best  to  return  to  the  road. 

* The  Flume  is  reached  by  a road  diverging  to  the  1.  a short  distance 
S.  of  the  hotel,  which  runs  to  the  foot  of  the  lower  cascade.  From  that 
point  a path  ascends  by  the  smooth  ledges  over  which  the  cascades  glide 


THE  PROFILE  HOUSE  TO  PLYMOUTH.  Route  3 4.  241 


musically  to  the  entrance  of  the  Flume.  After  passing  the  miserable  hut 
which  stands  at  the  mouth  of  this  wonderful  ravine,  the  full  power  of 
the  scene  is  felt.  A substantial  plank-walk  has  been  built  along  the 
course  of  the  stream,  which  it  often  crosses.  The  ravine  is  about  600  ft. 
long,  and  its  precipitous  rock-walls  are  60  - 70  ft.  high.  The  walls  are 
about  20  ft.  apart  for  most  of  the  distance,  but  approach  each  other  more 
closely  near  the  upper  end,  where  the  gorge  is  narrowed  to  10  ft.  in 
width,  and  holds  suspended  a huge  granite  boulder.  This  massive  rock 
seems  to  be  held  between  the  cliffs  by  a most  frail  tenure,  and  is  “as  un- 
pleasant to  look  at,  if  the  nerves  are  irresolute,  as  the  sword  of  Damocles, 
and  yet  held  by  a grasp  out  of  which  it  will  not  slip  for  centuries.”  By 
clambering  along  the  musical  cascade  to  the  upper  end  of  the  ravine,  one 
can  reach  the  edge  of  the  cliffs  above  and  look  down  into  the  Flume. 

Georgeanna  (or  Harvard ) Falls  are  S.  W.  of  the  hotel,  and  are  reached 
by  a forest-path  that  leaves  the  Plymouth  road  2 M.  S.  of  the  hotel  (guide 
at  the  farmhouse).  After  a long  ascent  which  follows  the  stream  through 
the  forest,  the  falls  are  seen,  “ making  two  leaps  of  80  ft.  each,  one  im- 
mediately after  the  other,  which,  as  we  climb  towards  them,  gleam  as  one 
splendid  line  of  light  through  the  trees  and  shrubbery  that  fringe  the 
lofty  cleft.”  From  the  ledge  above  these  falls  is  gained  “the  stalwartest 
prospect  in  ail  Franconia.” 

The  Profile  House  to  Plymouth. 

(Stages  leave  early  in  the  morning.  Distance,  29  M.  ; fare,  $4.00). 
The  road  leads  through  the  narrow  glen  for  5 M.,  passes  the  Flume  House 
between  Mts.  Pemigewasset  and  Liberty,  and  then  descends  to  a more 
open  country.  The  front  view  is  fine,  “ so  soft  and  delicate  are  the  gen- 
eral features  of  the  outlook  over  the  widening  Pemigewasset  valley,  so 
rich  the  gradation  of  the  lights  over  the  miles  of  gently  sloping  forest  that 
sweep  down  towards  Campton  ! ” 4 M.  beyond  the  Flume  House  the 

rugged  town  of  Lincoln  is  left,  with  its  32,456  acres  of  land  barely  sup- 
porting a resident  population  of  71  persons.  Woodstock  is  now  traversed, 
with  Black,  Blue,  and  Cushman’s  Mts.  on  the  W.,  and  Wanosha  on  the 
E.,  beyond  which  are  glimpses  of  the  peaks  toward  the  White  Mt.  Notch. 
This  town  has  8 or  10  boarding-houses,  whose  prices  range  from  $ 7.00  to 
$10.00  a week. 

Beyond  Woodstock  a fine  * retrospect  is  afforded,  where  “ the  arrange- 
ment of  the  principal  Franconia  Mts.  in  half-sexagon  — so  that  we  get  a 
strong  impression  of  their  mass,  and  yet  see  their  separate  steely  edges, 
gleaming  with  different  lights,  running  down  to  the  valley — is  one  of 
the  rare  pictures  in  N.  H.  What  a noble  combination, — those  keen 
contours  of  the  Haystack  pyramids,  and  the  knotted  muscles  of  Mt. 
Lafayette  beyond  ! ” 


11 


P 


242  Route  34- 


WATERVILLE. 


As  Thornton  (two  inns  and  several  boarding-houses)  is  entered,  the 
river  exhibits  broader  intervales,  which  become  beautiful  in  Campton. 

The  latter  village  has  two  inns  and  many  summer  boarding-houses,  and  is 
a favorite  resort  for  artists,  on  account  of  its  rich  meadows,  its  forests 
and  hills,  and  the  distant  mt.  views.  It  is  still  an  unsettled  question 
whether  Campton  or  N.  Conway  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  mt.  villages. 
Welch  Mt.  is  a prominent  object  in  the  landscape;  the  Sandwich  Mts. 
are  seen  on  the  E.  ; and  Mt.  Prospect  and  Livermore  Falls  are  in  the 
vicinity  (S.  E.  and  S. ) The  Devil’s  Den  is  a deep  cave  at  Campton  Hol- 
low ; the  Campton  Fall  is  near  the  village  ; and  the  views  of  the  Fran- 
conia Range  from  Durgin’s  Hill,  and  of  the  broad  valley  from  the  School 
House  Hill,  are  much  admired.  Following  now  the  Pemigewasset 
River,  with  Mt.  Prospect  on  the  E. , the  stage  reaches  Plymouth,  6 M.  S. 
of  Campton. 

Waterville  ( Greeley's  Mountain  House)  is  12  M.  N.  E.  of  Campton,  ' 
and  18  M.  from  Plymouth,  by  a road  leading  up  the  Mad  River  valley. 
There  is  good  trout-fishing  in  this  rugged  town  (which  has  but  33  inhabi-  ! 
tants),  and  some  very  romantic  scenery.  Portions  of  the  Sandwich  Range  , 
lie  in  Waterville,  forming  bold  and  picturesque  mt.  groups,  while  the 
lofty  peak  of  Osceola  (4,200  ft.  high)  is  in  the  N.  E.  There  is  a path  to 
the  summit  of  Osceola,  and  the  view  thence  is  said  to  be  grand. 

On  the  S.  are  the  principal  peaks  of  the  Sandwich  Range,  Black  Mt.,  White 
Face,  and  Bald  Knob,  with  distant  views  of  Lakes  Squam  and  Winnepesaukee,  ! 

the  former  being  about  S.  W.  Looking  across  the  Pemigewasset  valley  the  west-  $ 

era  hills  and  the  distant  Green  Mts.  are  seen.  In  the  N.  W.  are  the  Franconia 
Mts.,  with  Lafayette’s  conical  peak  most  conspicuous.  The  heavy  mass  of  Mt. 
Carrigain  is  close  at  hand,  and  nearly  N.,  while  farther  are  the  peaks  around  the  | 

Notch,  with  Mt.  Washington  and  the  presidential  group  far  beyond.  N.  of  E.  < 

are  Bear  and  Double  Head  Mts.,  over  Pinkham  Notch,  with  Mote  Mt.  hiding  N. 
Conway,  and  Kiarsarge  towering  beyond,  while  the  eye  follows  the  Swift  River 
valley  for  18  M.  to  Conway.  Below  Conway,  and  nearly  40  M.  distant,  is  Sebago 
Lake,  and  25  M.  beyond  the  ocean  may  be  seen  on  clear  days. 

The  Flume,  on  a brook  1J-2  M.  from  the  hotel,  with  Horton’s  Cave 
and  the  falls  on  Cascade  Brook,  are  frequently  visited.  Adventurous 
parties  have  penetrated  the  forests  to  the  N.  E.  to  the  White  Mt.  Notch 
road,  while  a pass  known  as  Greeley’s  Gap  leads  by  a rude  bridle-path  to 
Sandwich  (on  the  S.).  The  trail  to  the  Notch  (a  guide  should  be  taken) 
leads  first  to  Greeley’s  Pond,  under  Mt.  Osceola  (5  M.  from  the  hotel),  and 
then,  leaving  Mt.  Carrigain  on  the  1.,  passes  through  the  forest  to  the  upper 
part  of  Sawyer’s  River.  The  course  of  this  stream  is  followed  until  it 
reaches  the  Notch  road,  at  a point  about  midway  between  the  Upper 
Bartlett  and  Mt.  Crawford  Houses  (3  M.  from  each),  and  about  15  M.  from 
Greeley’s. 


DIXVILLE  NOTCH. 


Route  35.  243 


35.  The  Percy  Peaks,  Dixville  Notch,  and  Lake  TTmbagog. 

The  station  and  village  of  Northumberland  (Percy  Peaks  Hotel ; 
Melcher  House)  is  10  M.  N.  of  Lancaster,  and  31  M.  N.  of  Gorham.  It 
is  near  the  confluence  of  the  Upper  Ammonoosuc  and  Connecticut  Rivers, 
and  is  connected  with  Guildhall,  the  shire-town  of  Essex  County,  Ver- 
mont, by  a bridge  near  the  falls  in  the  latter  river.  The  town  was  settled 
in  1767,  and  fortified  during  the  Revolution.  Moose,  Bellamy,  and  Cape 
Horn  Mts.  are  in  the  vicinity,  and  from  this  point  the  ascent  of  the  Percy 
(or  Stratford)  Peaks  is  usually  undertaken.  Passengers  for  Dixville  and 
the  North  go  from  Northumberland  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

The  line  passes  N.  along  the  Conn,  valley  with  the  Percy  Peaks  on  the 
r.,  stops  at  Stratford  Hollow , and  then  at  N.  Stratford  (Willard  House; 
American ; Percy),  whence  the  stage  usually  leaves  in  the  evening  for 
Colebrook,  13  M.  N.  E.  The  road  follows  the  Conn.  River  closely,  cross- 
ing the  thinly  populated  forest-town  of  Columbia,  and  then,  flanking  the 
vast  mass  of  Monadnock  Mt.,  enters  the  pretty  village  of  Colebrook 
(Parsons  House,  accommodating  100  guests,  at  $ 7 -10.00  a week;  Monad- 
nock House). 

This  town  was  named  in  honor  of  Sir  George  Colebrook,  an  English  knight,  to 
whom  it  was  originally  granted.  It  is  the  northern  shire-town  of  Coos  County, 
which  has  an  area  of  1,950  square  miles,  with  a population  of  15,580,  and  a valua- 
tion of  $4,946,910.  Although  New  England  is  the  stronghold  of  the  Republican 
party,  it  is  a curious  fact  that  Coos  and  the  other  three  mountain  counties, 
Belknap,  Carroll,  and  Grafton,  usually  go  Democratic  by  fair  majorities.  Cole- 
brook has  4 churches  and  1,372  inhabitants.  It  is  said  that  \ of  the  potato  starch 
in  America  is  made  in  this  town  (by  8 factories). 

Excellent  trout-fishing  is  found  on  the  sequestered  streams  in  this 
vicinity.  Mt.  Monadnock  is  near  the  village,  and  may  be  ascended  by  a 
path  leading  in  4 - 5 M.  to  its  summit.  The  Beaver  Brook  Falls  are 
about  4 M.  distant,  and  are  well  worthy  of  a visit. 

Dixville  Notch 

is  10  M.  S.  E.  of  Colebrook,  and  is  reached  by  a road  leading  up  the  valley 
of  the  Mohawk  River,  a pretty  stream  which  affords  good  trout-fishing. 
“The  Dixville  Notch  is,  briefly,  picturesque, — a fine  gorge  between  a 
crumbling  conical  crag  and  a scarped  precipice,  — a place  easily  defensible, 
except  at  the  season  when  raspberries  would  distract  sentinels.”  (Theo- 
dore Winthrop.)  This  pass  is  in  the  town  of  Dixville,  which  has  31,000 
acres  of  land  and  8 inhabitants,  with  a valuation  of  $ 20,000.  The  Notch 
is  not  a mountain-pass,  but  a wonderful  ravine  among  high  hills,  whose 
impending  cliffs  are  worn  and  broken  into  strange  forms  of  ruin  and  deso- 
lation. “At  Dixville,  all  is  decay,  wreck;  the  hopeless  submission  of 
matter  in  the  coil  of  its  hungry  foes.”  The  first  view  of  the  Notch  is 


244  Route  35. 


LAKE  UMBAGOG. 


disappointing,  since  it  is  entered  at  a high  level  by  the  road  which  has 
been  ascending  all  the  way  from  Colebrook.  No  mountainous  line  is  seen 
in  front,  and  it  is  only  after  leaving  the  great  forest  and  making  a sharp 
turn  to  the  r.  and  a short,  steep  ascent,  that  the  high,  columnar  sides  are 
seen  frowning  at  each  other  across  the  narrow  chasm.  .These  cliffs  of 
decaying  mica  slate  present  a scene  of  ruin,  transitoriness,  and  shattered 
strength,  that  is  mournful  and  almost  repulsive. 

* Table  Rock  is  on  the  r.  of  the  road,  and  is  reached  by  a rude  stairway 
of  stone  blocks  called  Jacob’s  Ladder,  whose  divergence  from  the  road  is 
marked  by  a guide-board  near  the  top  of  the  first  steep  rise.  The  Rock  is 
561  ft.  above  the  road  and  2,450  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is  a narrow  pin- 
nacle only  about  8 ft.  wide  at  the  top,  with  sharp,  precipitous  sides. 

The  view  is  very  extensive  from  this  point.  Monadnock  looms  boldly  in  the 
W.  with  other  and  more  distant  summits  in  Vermont ; the  Canadian  Hereford  Mt. 
is  in  the  N.  W.  ; while  Connecticut  Lake  and  the  Magalloway  Mts.  are  in  the  N. 
To  the  E.  are  the  broad  plains  of  Errol  and  the  upper  Androscoggin  valley.  But 
the  most  impressive  sight  is  the  dreary  pass  below  with  its  broken  palisades  seem- 
ing ready  to  fall  at  any  moment.  The  rock-spires  opposite,  which  are  seen  from 
the  road  as  clearly  outlined  against  the  sky,  from  this  point  lose  their  sharpness 
of  form  against  the  dark  background  of  a lofty  hill  which  towers  over  them. 

Above  Table  Rock  a short  path  leads  to  the  Ice  Cave , a profound  chasm 
where  snow  and  ice  may  be  found  throughout  the  summer.  The  Profile 
is  seen  from  a guide-board  on  the  r.  of  the  road,  high  up  on  the  cliffs, 
while  the  Pulpit  is  pointed  out  on  the  1.  Farther  on,  a board  on  the  r. 
directs  attention  to  the  refreshing  waters  of  Clear  Spring,  and  another 
board  on  the  1.  points  out  Washington’s  Monument  and  the  Pinnacle, 
remarkable  rock-formations  which  have  recently  been  developed  by  clear- 
ing away  the  forests.  A sign  on  the  1.  shows  the  path  leading  to  the 
Flume , where  a brook  runs  through  a gorge  in  the  rock,  which  is  spanned 
by  a rustic  bridge.  The  flume  is  20  ft.  deep  and  10  ft.  wide,  and  has  been 
formed  by  the  erosion  of  a trap-dike.  At  the  foot  of  the  Notch  (which 
is  1J  M.  long),  a board  directs  to  the  r.  to  the  Cascades,  before  which 
is  the  grove  where  excursion-parties  usually  dine.  Beyond  the  grove 
is  a neat  rustic  bridge  and  seat,  before  a small  cascade,  and  by  following 
a rugged  path  up  stream  on  the  1.  (15  minutes)  a cliff-side  seat  is  reached, 
from  which  a noble  series  of  falls  are  seen,  descending  sheer  from  the 
precipice  above. 

The  Clear  Stream  Meadows  are  below  the  E.  side  of  the  Notch  and 
present  a scene  of  pastoral  beauty  that  strongly  contrasts  with  the  deso- 
late region  behind. 

From  this  point  the  return  is  usually  commenced,  though  parties  of 
gentlemen  prepared  for  a forest  expedition  sometimes  go  on  to  Errol  Dam 
(Errol  House  ; Akers  House)  13  M.  distant.  A steamer  leaves  the  Dam 
semi-weekly  for  the  Upper  Magalloway  River,  and  also  for  the  Lake 
House,  in  Upton,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Umbagog.  Winthrop  tells  (“  Life 


BOSTON  TO  CAPE  ANN. 


Route  36.  245 


in  the  Open  Air  ”)  of  his  voyage  in  a small  boat  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes, 
passing  through  Umbagog,  then  over  a 3 M.  portage,  and  thence  travers- 
ing the  Lakes  Welocksebacook,  Allegundabagog,  Molly chunkamug,  and 
Moosetocmaguntic  to  Rangeley  (see  Route  41).  From  the  Lake  House  at 
the  S.  end  of  Umbagog,  semi-weekly  stages  run  to  Bethel  (see  Route  40). 

Connecticut  Lake  {Conn.  Lake  House)  is  25  M.  N.  E.  of  Colebrook. 
It  is  5J  M.  long  by  2J  M.  wide,  and  abounds  in  fish.  A small  steamer 
plies  over  its  waters!  4 M.  N.  E.  through  the  forest  is  Second  Lake,  2J 
M . long  by  2 M.  wide,  while  still  farther  N.  is  Third  Lake,  covering  200 
acres,  and  on  the  border  of  Canada  is  Fourth  Lake,  the  source  of  the  Con- 
necticut River.  The  latter  lake  covers  3 acres,  and  is  2,500  ft.  above  the 
sea.  S.  E.  of  Connecticut  Lake  the  Magalloway  Mts.  are  seen,  while 
from  its  lower  end  the  Connecticut  River  (“  Quonektacut,”  meaning  Long 
River,  or  River  of  Pines)  flows  down  a long  cascade.  These  lakes  are  in 
Pittsburg,  a town  of  200,000  acres,  with  but  400  inhabitants.  Game 
abounds  in  the  forests,  and  fish  in  the  streams. 

36.  Boston  to  Cape  Ann. 

Trains  on  the  Eastern  Railroad  from  the  station  on  Causeway  St.,  Boston 
(PL  2). 

From  Boston  to  Beverly , see  Route  37.  At  Beverly  a branch  railroad 
diverges  to  the  N.  E.  and  runs  (in  18  M.)  to  Rockport,  at  the  end  of  Cape 
Ann,  and  36  M.  from  Boston.  Between  Beverly  and  Manchester  the  line 
lies  near  the  sea,  and  affords  frequent  glimpses  of  the  beach-cottages  and 
tents  which  front  on  the  outer  harbor  of  Salem.  Near  Beverly  Farms  the 
Mingo  Beach  stretches  around  a broad  cove.  Manchester  (Manchester 
House)  is  a quaint  little  village  on  the  1.  of  the  line,  lying  at  the  head  of 
a narrow  harbor,  and  noted  for  having  produced  more  sea-captains  and 
sailors  than  any  other  town  of  equal  population  in  America.  Between 
Manchester  and  Gloucester  the  line  runs  through  a dreary  succession  of 
rocky  hills. 

Gloucester. 

Hotels. — Atlantic  House  ; Webster  House  ; Pavilion  (on  the  beach  ; open  only 
in  summer). 

Gloucester  is  an  interesting  city  of  15,397  inhabitants,  situated  on  a fine 
harbor  opening  to  the  S.  W.,  at  about  the  middle  of  the  cape.  It  has  13 
churches,  2 lodges  of  Masons  and  2 of  Odd  Fellows,  8 temperance  societies, 
and  4 banks.  It  has  a curious  nautical  air,  from  the  fact  that  most  of  its 
men  are  engaged  in  the  deep-sea  fisheries,  and  when  the  great  fleets  are  in 
port  the  streets  and  harbor  present  a lively  appearance.  Extensive  fires 
have  devastated  the  place,  and  its  fleets  have  often  been  overtaken  with 
disasters,  but  still  Gloucester  has  increased,  and  has  recently  attained  the 
distinction  of  a city.  There  are  some  very  neat  church  and  school  build- 


246  Route  36. 


GLOUCESTER. 


ings,  and  the  City  Hall  is  a new  and  elegant  structure  of  brick,  in  the 
modern  French  style  of  architecture.  The  inner  harbor  is  guarded  by 
Ten  Pound  Island,  and  presents  a rare  scene  of  bustle  and  activity,  being 
the  very  home  of  schooners.  The  outer  harbor  is  protected  from  the  sea 
by  Eastern  Point , with  its  lighthouse  and  fort,  while  on  the  W.  shore  is 
the  Stage  Fort  (erected  during  the  Secession  War)  from  which  is  obtained 
a pretty  view  of  the  harbor  and  town.  Directly  across  the  harbor  from 
the  city  is  E.  Gloucester , from  whose  rugged  hills  the  compact  streets, 
with  the  church-spires  and  the  Collins  School  and  lofty  City  Hall,  make 
a pretty  scene  (the  best  near  views  are  from  Rocky  Neck).  Several  large 
summer  boarding-houses  are  scattered  over  the  E.  Gloucester  peninsula, 
which  has  wild  and  rugged  scenery  on  the  seaward  side.  On  Little  Good 
Harbor  is  a beach,  at  the  S.  end  of  which  are  the  Bass  Rocks,  where  the 
surf  rolls  in  grandly  after  an  easterly  gale.  The  City  Hall  Tower  over- 
looks the  pretty  suburbs  of  Brookbank  and  Steepbank,  and  views  the 
open  sea  beyond  E.  Gloucester.  Within  5 minutes’  walk  of  the  City  Hall 
is  Fort  Point,  a small,  rocky  promontory  covered  with  fish-flakes,  with 
the  remains  of  an  old  fort  on  its  highest  point.  Near  by  (and  3 minutes’ 
walk  from  the  Atlantic  House)  is  Crescent  Beach,  facing  the  surf  from 
the  inner  harbor  and  partly  occupied  by  the  Pavilion  House , of  which 
Lady  E.  S.  Wortley  said,  “ It  is  very  much  like  being  afloat  in  a line-of- 
battle  ship,  we  are  so  close  to  the  grand  old  Atlantic.” 

Beacon  Pole  Hill , close  to  the  city  on  the  Annisquam  road,  commands 
an  extensive  and  interesting  prospect  of  Gloucester,  the  bare,  bleak  hills 
of  the  cape,  and  the  waters  and  shores  to  the  N.  and  S.  Beyond  the  hill 
is  the  hamlet  of  Riverdale,  which  has  a church  of  the  17th  century. 

John  Murray,  the  “Apostle  of  Universalism,”  planted  that  sect  in  America  in 
1770,  and  preached  for  several  years  in  this  church.  A centennial  celebration 
took  place  here,  Sept.  20-24,  1870,  during  which  many  thousand  Universalists 
encamped  about  the  town.  In  the  old  Murray  Meeting-house  is  a curious  organ, 
which  was  captured  during  the  Revolution  by  a privateer.  It  is  4 ft.  high,  and  is 
played  by  turning  a crank,  its  capacity  being  30  tunes. 

The  pleasantest  excursion  about  Gloucester  is  to  Norman's  Woe  and 
Rafe's  Chasm.  About  2 M.  from  the  city,  a small  road  turns  off  to  the 
1.  from  the  Manchester  road,  and  soon,  losing  all  evidences  of  carriage- 
travel,  runs  into  a sequestered  path  in  the  borders  of  the  forest  and  by 
the  edge  of  the  sea.  The  dark  and  frowning  mass  of  rocks  soon  seen, 
surrounded  by  the  sea,  is  Norman’s  Woe,  the  scene  of  Longfellow’s  poem, 
“ The  Wreck  of  the  Hesperus.” 

“ It  was  the  schooner  Hesperus 
That  sailed  the  wintry  sea. 

“ And  fast  through  the  midnight  dark  and  drear, 

Tlirouah  the  whistling  sleet  and  snow, 

Like  a sheeted  ghost  the  vessel  swept 
Tow’rds  the  reef  of  .Norman’s  Woe.” 


ROCKPORT. 


Route  36.  247 


Following  the  precipitous,  rocky  shore  about  1 M.  S.  W.  of  the  reef, 
one  comes  to  * Rafe’s  Chasm,  a remarkable  fissure  in  the  great  cliff  which 
fronts  the  sea.  It  is  6 ft.  wide,  40  - 50  ft.  deep,  and  100  ft.  long,  and  the 
roar  of  the  waves  is  appalling  when  they  sweep  through  it  after  a storm. 
Some  distance  beyond,  on  the  same  shore,  is  another  curious  cleft  in  the 
trap-rock.  The  ramble  may  be  extended  to  Goldsmith’s  Point  and 
its  stimmer  villas,  with  Kettle  Island  and  Great  Egg  Rock  off  shore,  and 
a large  new  hotel  near  the  beach.  A little  to  the  N.  (and  near  the  Mag- 
nolia flag-station  on  the  railroad)  is  a swamp  containing  the  rare  and 
beautiful  magnolia-trees,  whose  flowers  are  out  in  July. 

“Around  the  Cape”  is  a favorite  excursion  from  Gloucester,  and  the 
distance  is  12  - 14  M.  From  Gloucester  to  Rockport  by  highway  or  rail- 
road, is  about  4 M.  By  diverging  to  the  r.  from  the  main  road  a shore- 
road  (inferior)  is  gained,  which  leads  to  Rockport  by  Whale  and  Loblolly 
Coves,  passing  near  Thacher’s  and  Straitsmouth  Islands,  with  their  tall 
lighthouses.  Thacker's  Island  has  two  powerful  Fresnel  lights,  in 
granite  towers,  112  ft.  high  and  J M.  apart.  There  is  a tradition  that  a 
rebel  cruiser  hit  one  of  these  lanterns  with  a cannon-shot  during  a dark 
night  of  the  Secession  War. 

Rockport  {Sheridan  House ) is  a well-named  town  of  about  4,000 
inhabitants,  with  5 churches  and  2 banks.  From  costly  artificial  harbors 
along  this  rock-bound  coast,  great  quantities  of  granite  are  shipped  to  all 
parts  of  the  Union.  2 M.  N.  of  this  village  is  the  summer-resort  at 
Pigeon  Cove  (stages  from  Rockport  station),  with  the  Pigeon  Cove,  Ocean 
View,  and  Glen  Acre  Hotels,  and  several  boarding-houses.  This  was 
formerly  a favorite  resort  of  the  great  divines  of  the  liberal  sects, — Chapin, 
Starr  King,  Bartol,  and  others, — and  has  grown  rapidly  in  pop  nlarity.  The 
rocky  shores  furnish  an  endless  variety  of  scenery,  and  the  surf,  after 
stormy  weather,  is  grand  in  its  power.  Phillips  Avenue  and  other  streets 
have  been  graded  on  the  heights  by  Pigeon  Cove,  and  a large  village  of 
summer  residences  (called  Ocean  View)  is  to  be  built  here. 

From  Ocean  View,  the  road  runs  to  Folly  Cove,  and  near  Folly  Point, 
the  N.  limit  of  the  cape,  to  Lanesville,  looking  across  the  northern  waters 
to  the  shores  of  Essex  North,  New  Hampshire,  and  lower  Maine.  There 
are  summer  boarding-houses  here  and  at  Annisquam,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Squam  River.  This  tidal  lagune  is  now  followed  to  Bo.y  View , with  its 
large  wharves,  and  a steam  railroad  running  back  into  quarries  which  yield 
granite  (of  which  the  Boston  Post  Office  is  being  built)  of  a lighter  color 
than  that  of  Quincy.  On  a sightly  hill  over  Bay  View  is  the  elegant  sea- 
side cottage  (of  red  and  gray  granite),  which  was  presented  by  friends  to 
the  Hon.  B.  F.  Butler,  Congressman  from  Essex  County.  From  Annis- 
quam  to  Gloucester  it  is  about  4 M.,  mostly  by  the  side  of  Squam  River, 
and  passing  Riverdale  and  Beacon  Pole  Hill. 


248  Route  36. 


CAPE  ANN. 


Cape  Ann  was  formerly  inhabited  by  a small  tribe  of  Indians,  who  called  it  Win- 
gaersheek.  It  was  rounded  ljy  Capt.  Smith  in  1614,  who  named  it  Cape  Traga- 
bigzanda  in  memory  of  a Turkish  princess  who  had  befriended  him  while  he  was 
wounded  and  a prisoner  in  Constantinople  (1601).  Prince  Charles  of  England 
overruled  Smith,  and  named  the  cape  in  honor  of  his  royal  mother.  In  1625  the 
forest-covered  promontory  was  settled  by  a colony  under  Roger  Conant,  who 
founded  here  the  first  Puritan  church.  Abandoned  by  Conant  in  favor  of  Salem, 
it  was  soon  re-peopled  by  another  swarm  from  the  English  hive,  and  incorporated 
in  1642  under  the  name  of  Gloucester,  since  most  of  its  settlers  came  from  the 
English  town  of  that  name.  The  colonists  soon  exterminated  the  “lyons”  and 
drove  off  the  Indians.  1692  was  “ a year  memorable  in  the  annals  of  mystery,” 
and  hundreds  of  French  and  Indian  ghosts  were  thought  to  haunt  the  cape,  and 
were  often  shot  at  but  never  hurt.  So  great  was  the  panic  that  two  regiments 
from  the  mainland  occupied  the  cape.  With  the  decline  of  the  witchcraft  delusion 
in  Salem  the  superstitious  mariners  of  Gloucester  lost  sight  of  their  mysterious 
enemies,  and  the  guards  were  withdrawn.  In  1716  the  first  terrible  marine  dis- 
aster occurred,  when  5 large  fishing-vessels  from  this  port  were  lost  off  the  Banks 
with  all  on  board.  In  1774  Edmund  Burke,  speaking  of  the  Massachusetts  fisher- 
men, said,  “No  sea  but  what  is  vexed  by  their  fisheries,  no  climate  that  is  not 
witness  of  their  toils  ; neither  the  perseverance  of  Holland,  nor  the  activity  of 
France,  nor  the  dexterous  and  firm  sagacity  of  English  enterprise,  ever  carried 
their  most  perilous  mode  of  hardy  industry  to  the  extent  to  which  it  has  been 
pursued  by  this  recent  people, — a people  who  are  yet  in  the  gristle,  and  not  yet 
hardened  into  manhood.”  In  1775  Cape  Ann  sent  300  men  to  the  American  army 
besieging  Boston,  and  in  August  of  that  year  Gloucester  was  bombarded  for  4 
hours  by  the  British  sloop-of-war  “ Falcon.”  The  minute-men  held  the  town,  and 
captured  4 boats,  a tender,  and  a prize  schooner  with  40  men  from  the  “ Falcon.” 
The  ruined  town  was  soon  repaired,  and  with  the  close  of  the  war,  the  cessation 
of  privateering,  and  the  reduction  of  the  national  navy,  the  fishing-fleets  were  once 
more  manned  and  sent  out.  Gloucester  had  included  the  whole  cape  until  1840, 
when  Rockport  became  an  independent  town.  The  canal  from  the  harbor  to 
Squam  River  (first  cut  in  1643)  was  long  ago  abandoned  as  useless.  In  1873 
Gloucester  received  a city  charter. 

William  Winter,  the  poet,  E.  P.  Whipple,  the  essayist,  and  Samuel  Gilman,  the 
Unitarian  divine,  were  born  here  ; also,  Capt.  Haraden,  who,  with  the  “Picker- 
ing,” swept  the  Bay  of  Biscay  and  the  North  Atlantic,  and  took  1,000  cannon  from 
the  British  on  the  sea,  between  1775  and  1783.  Epes  Sargent,  the  author  ; Henry 
Sargent,  the  painter  ; and  other  notables  of  the  same  family,  came  from  Glouces- 
ter. 

The  fisheries  around  Newfoundland  have  caused  trouble  ever  since  1585,  when 
Queen  Elizabeth  sent  a fleet  which  swooped  down  on  a swarm  of  Norman  fishing- 
vessels  on  the  Banks,  and  captured  half  of  them.  But  the  deep-sea  and  George’s 
Bank  fisheries  are  the  noble  pursuits  of  this  maritime  people,  who  man  their  fleets 
with  5,000  men,  and  lose  on  an  average,  10  vessels  and  100  men  each  year.  In 
the  winter  of  1862,  13  vessels  and  130  men  from  this  port  were  lost  in  one  night 
on  George’s  Bank. 

“ Wild  are  the  waves  which  lash  the  reefs  along  St.  George’s  Bank, 

Cold  on  the  shore  of  Labrador  the  fog  lies  white  and  dank  ; 

Through  storm  and  wave  and  blinding  mist,  stout  are  the  hearts  which  man 
The  fishing-smacks  of  Marblehead,  the  sea-boats  of  Cape  Ann. 

“ The  cold  North  light  and  wintry  sun  glare  on  their  icy  forms 
Bent  grimly  o’er  their  straining  lines,  or  wrestling  with  the  storms  ; 

Free  as  the  winds  they  drive  before,  rough  as  the  waves  they  roam, 

They  laugh  to  scorn  the  slaver’s  threat  against  their  rocky  home  ” 

(John  G.  Whittier.) 


37.  Boston  to  Portland  and  St.  John. 

This  is  the  most  interesting  and  easy  of  the  routes  to  Maine  and  the  Maritime 
Provinces.  No  change  of  cars  is  necessary  between  Boston  and  Bangor,  since 
the  Eastern  Railroad  cars  pass  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Maine  Central  Railway  at 
Portland  and  are  carried  through  to  Bangor.  At  the  latter  city  the  traveller  gets 


EVERETT. 


Route  37.  2 49 


on  the  train  of  the  European  and  North  American  Railway,  which  passes  through 
to  St.  John.  Boslon  to  Salem,  16  M.  ; to  Newburyport,  36  M.  ; to  Portsmouth, 
56  M.  ; to  Portland,  108  M.  ; to  Augusta,  171  M.  ; to  Bangor,  246  M.  ; to  St.  John, 
446  M.  ; to  Halifax,  636  M. 

The  rich  and  elegant  cars  of  the  Pullman  Company  are  attached  to  every 
through  train.  This  company  has  over  500  cars  (costing  $ 18  - 22,000  each)  running 
on  90  railroads.  They  are  used  throughout  the  United  States,  also  between  Bom- 
bay and  Calcutta  (1,800  M.),  and  are  about  to  be  introduced  on  the  through  route 
from  Paris  to  Vienna.  The  chief  advantage  possessed  by  this  line  is  that  it  runs 
through  the  large  sea-cities  of  Massachusetts,  with  frequent  views  of  the  ocean 
and  the  northern  bays.  Numerous  popular  seaside  resorts  are  near  its  track, 
while  9 connecting  lines  run  landward  from  it.  Fares,  to  Portland,  $3.00  ; to 
Bangor,  $6.00  ; to  St.  John,  $10.00  ; to  Halifax,  $14.00. 

The  line  nearly  coincides  with  the  route  of  the  “Portsmouth  Flying  Coach 
Co.,”  established  in  1762,  to  make  weekly  trips  by  way  of  the  Newburyport  road. 
The  fare  was  13s.  6d.  to  Portsmouth  and  9s.  to  Newbury.  President  Dwight 
(of  Yale)  rode  over  this  route  in  1796,  and  wrote,  “No  part  of  the  United  States 
furnishes  a tour  equally  pleasing.  Nowhere  is  there  in  the  same  compass  such  a 
number  of  towns  equally  interesting,  large,  wealthy,  and  beautiful,  or  equally 
inhabited  by  intelligent,  x^olished,  and  respectable  people.” 

Two  through  express  trains  run  daily  each  way  between  Boston  and  Bangor, 
240  M.,  in  11  hours. 

The  train  leaves  the  terminal  station  on  Causeway  St.,  at  the  foot  of 
Friend  St.  (PI.  2),  and  runs  out  over  Charles  River  on  a long  trestle.  On 
the  1.  is  the  track  of  the  Boston  and  Lowell  R.  R.,  and  on  the  r.  are  the 
Fitchburg  and  the  Boston  and  Maine  tracks.  The  heights  of  Charlestown, 
crowned  by  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  rise  on  the  r. , and  the  manufactories 
of  E.  Cambridge  are  seen  on  the  1.  Off  Prison  Point  (Charlestown)  the 
Fitchburg  R.  R.  is  crossed,  with  the  State  Prison  close  at  hand,  and  the 
McLean  Asylum  for  the  Insane  on  the  1.  This  Asylum  was  opened  in 
1818,  and  has  extensive  buildings  which  cost  over  $200,000,  surrounded 
by  pleasant  grounds.  It  was  named  for  a philanthropic  Boston  merchant, 
who  gave  $150,000  for  this  object  and  to  Harvard  University.  After 
running  for  nearly  a mile  over  the  waters  of  Charles  River  and  Miller’s 
Creek,  the  line  gains  the  Somerville  meadows,  and  crosses  the  Boston  and 
Maine  track  just  before  reaching  Somerville  station.  Soon  after  leaving 
this  station,  Mt.  Benedict  and  the  ruins  of  the  Ursuline  Convent  (de- 
stroyed by  a mob  in  1834)  are  passed  on  the  1.  and  the  train  crosses  the 
Mystic  River,  — with  Charlestown  and  E.  Boston  on  the  r. 

Station,  Everett , whence  the  Saugus  Branch  diverges  to  the  N.,  and 
passes  through  the  suburban  villages  of  Malden,  Maplewood,  Linden, 
Cliftondale,  Saugus,  E.  Saugus,  and  Lynn  Common.  Near  the  latter  vil- 
lage it  rejoins  the  main  line.  The  town  of  Everett  was  incorporated  in 
1870,  with  a population  of  2,222  and  a valuation  of  $2,000,000.  From 
this  point  the  track  runs  S.  of  E.  to  Chelsea  station.  From  Boston  to 
Chelsea  the  road  describes  a semicircle  with  the  centre  of  the  curve  in- 
clined to  the  N.  W.  The  road  formerly  terminated  at  E.  Boston,  but  a 
depot  was  built  in  the  city,  and  a circuitous  course  was  necessary  in  order 
to  avoid  the  deep  outer  channels  of  the  Charles  and  Mystic  Rivers. 
Chelsea  and  Revere  Beach  are  described  in  Route  2.  The  line  soon  crosses 
11* 


250  Route  37. 


LYNN. 


Chelsea  Creek  and  Saugus  River,  with  the  hotels  on  Chelsea  (or  Revere) 
Beach,  on  the  r.,  skirts  Lynn  Harbor,  passes  W.  Lynn,  and  stops  at 

Lynn. 

Hotels.  Sagamore  Iiouse  ; Central  House  ; Lynn  Hotel.  Horse-cars  to  Bos- 
ton, half-hourly. 

Lynn  is  a busy  city  of  28,231  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  N.  end  of 
Mass.  Bay,  on  a harbor  formed  by  the  peninsula  of  Nahant.  The  greater 
part  of  the  city  is  on  a plain  near  the  sea,  while  a chain  of  porphyritic 
hills  on  the  N.  is  adorned  with  many  neat  villas.  Market  St.  is  the  main 
thoroughfare,  and  is  lined  with  large  commercial  buildings,  mostly  of 
brick,  although  by  far  the  greater  part  of  the  city  is  constructed  of  wood. 
Skilled  American  labor  is  employed  here  to  a larger  extent  than  in  the 
other  manufacturing  cities  of  New  England  (where  foreign  workmen  are 
numerous),  and  its  interests  are  protected  and  sometimes  over-asserted  by 
a pcDwerful  organization  called  the  Knights  of  St.  Crispin. 

The  city  was  founded  in  1629,  and  named  for  Lynn  Regis,  in  England,  the  home 
of  its  first  pastor  (1636-79).  In  1810,  it  was  the  7th  town  of  Essex  County  ; in 
1820,  the  5th  ; in  1830,  the  4th  ; in  1840,  the  2d,  which  rank  it  still  maintains 
(Lawrence  being  the  largest  city  in  the  county).  About  1750,  the  manufacture  of 
ladies’  shoes  was  commenced  here  by  a Welchman  named  Dagyr,  and  it  has  since 
grown  to  vast  proportions,  Lynn  now  being  the  first  city  in  the  world  in  this 
branch  of  industry. 

The  shoe-manufacture  is  now  the  chief  business  of  Massachusetts.  Of 
$555,000,000,  the  aggregate  value  of  the  manufactures  in  the  State  in  the  year 
1870,  $88,399,583,  was  the  value  of  the  boots  and  shoes  made;  $33,685,055,  of 
the  leather;  $59,299,423,  of  cotton  goods  and  threads  ; $48,177,135,  of  the  wool- 
lens and  worsteds  ; and  $26,767,485,  of  the  iron-manufactures. 

In  1767,  Lynn  made  80,000  pairs  of  shoes  ; in  1810,  1,000,000  pairs  ; in  1865, 
5,360,000  pairs;  and  in  1868,  over  10,000,000  pairs,  valued  at  $18,000,000.  In 
1865,  there  were  employed  6,984  men  and  4,984  women,  in  this  branch  of  in- 
dustry. 

The  * City  Hall  is  one  of  the  finest  municipal  buildings  in  New  Eng- 
land. It  is  some  distance  W.  of  the  station,  and  is  substantially  and 
gracefully  built  of  brick  and  brownstone,  with  a fine  tower  above  it.  It 
fronts  on  a long  and  narrow  Common  which  extends  nearly  to  the  Lynn 
Common  station.  High  Rock  is  N.  of  the  City  Hall,  and  commands  a 
wide  view  of  the  city  and  the  surrounding  waters.  Here  was  the  home 
of  Moll  Pitcher,  a reputed  sorceress,  and  here  also,  in  later  years,  have 
resided  the  Hutchinson  family  of  singers.  Pine  Grove  Cemetery  is  a 
beautiful  rural  burying-ground  on  the  hills  toward  the  “ Lakes  of  Lynn.” 

Dungeon  Rock  is  3 - 4 M.  from  the  city.  Here,  on  one  of  the  highest 
of  a series  of  picturesque,  forest-covered  hills,  it  is  said  that  certain  pirates 
had  their  den  and  treasure-house,  until  an  earthquake  swallowed  them 
up  (in  the  17th  century).  In  1852  a person  came  to  this  hill  and  began  to 
dig  for  treasures  under  the  inspiration  of  spiritualism  and  the  guidance 
of  clairvoyants.  He  worked  here  until  his  death  in  1868,  meanwhile 
cutting  a passage  into  the  iron-like  porphyry  rock,.  135  ft.  long,  7 ft.  wide. 


SWAMPSCOTT. 


Route  37.  251 


and  7 ft.  high.  Near  this  point  is  the  Saugus  River,  where  a forge  and 
smelting-works  for  working  iron  were  erected  in  1643. 

The  pleasantest  part  of  Lynn  is  the  vicinity  of  Nahant  St.  and  Saga- 
more Hill,  where  there  are  many  fine  villas  belonging  to  Boston  mer- 
chants. The  bank  building  and  the  new  Universalist  Church  are  in  this 
quarter,  and  are  worthy  of  notice.  Lynn  Beach  and  Nahant  (see  page  21) 
are  gained  by  way  of  Nahant  St.,  while  by  following  the  shore  toward 
the  N.  (a  foot-path  only)  a line  of  elegant  seaside  villas  is  passed,  and 
Swampscott  is  reached. 

Soon  after  leaving  Lynn,  the  train  reaches  Swampscott  (Great  Anawan 
House;  Little  Anawan  House  ; Ocean  House  ; Lincoln  House),  a fashion- 
able watering-place,  which,  like  Nahant,  is  much  affected  by  the  aristocracy 
of  Boston.  Their  elegant  carriages  and  trim  yachts  are  easily  brought 
here  (13  M.  from  Boston),  and  make  land  and  water  lively  through  the 
summer  months.  Numerous  boarding-houses,  small  hotels,  and  cottages 
receive  their  quotas  of  the  guests.  The  beaches  are  short  and  limited, 
but  afford  safe  bathing,  while  the  greater  part  of  the  shore  consists  of 
high  bluffs  and  ragged  ledges.  Phillips'  Beach , about  3 M.  E.  of  the 
station,  faces  the  open  sea,  and  is  nearly  insulated  by  Phillips’  Pond.  A 
large  cluster  of  cottages  is  built  on  the  prominent  point  over  Dread 
Ledge,  from  which  the  shore  trends  W.,  and  pretty  views  of  Nahant  Bay, 
the  peninsula  of  Nahant,  and  the  islanded  Egg  Rock,  may  be  gained. 
The  yachts  and  village  fishing-smacks  are  usually  anchored  off  Fisher- 
man’s Village  and  along  the  S.  shore.  Beyond  Swampscott  the  train 
reaches 

Salem. 

Hotels.  Essex  House,  on  Essex  St.,  $ 3.00  a day  ; Derby  House. 

Horse-cars  to  Peabody  and  Beverly  (on  Essex  St.).  Steamers  (in  summer) 
to  Lowell  Island. 

Salem,  the  mother-city  of  the  Massachusetts  colony,  and  a shire-town 
of  Essex  County,  is  favorably  situated  on  a long  peninsula  between  two 
inlets  of  the  sea.  It  has  24,119  inhabitants,  and  while  slowly  gaining  in 
wealth,  it  is  losing  its  place  among  the  cities  of  the  State  and  County,  by 
their  more  rapid  increase.  The  marine  aristocracy  of  the  old  East  India 
merchants  and  captains  still  holds  lines  of  stately  old-time  mansions,  and 
the  stillness  and  grave  propriety  of  the  city  is  generally  noticed  by  the 
visitor.  The  wharves  are  now  occupied  by  the  few  coasting-vessels  which 
have  taken  the  place  of  the  great  East  Indiamen  which  formerly  entered 
here.  Boston  has  taken  this  trade  away,  and  the  city  is  now  supported 
by  its  lately  developed  steam-mills  and  factories.  There  is  a safe  and 
commodious  harbor  before  the  city,  which  is  defended  by  Fort  Pickering, 
and  good  boating  is  foimd  there.  The  State  Normal  School  in  Salem  is 
situated  on  High  St.,  and  has  160  girls  in  attendance.  Instruction  of  a 


252  Route  37. 


SALEM. 


high  order  is  given  here  without  cost,  on  condition  that  each  student  shall 
teach  (for  a specified  time)  in  the  schools  of  the  Commonwealth.  The 
churches  of  the  city  are  not  remarkable  for  their  architecture,  although  3 
of  them  are  of  stone.  There  are  3 Unitarian  churches. 

The  East  India  Marine  Hall  is  on  Essex  St.,  near  the  Essex  House. 
Here  are  the  scientific  collections  of  the  Essex  Institute  and  the  * ethno- 
logical collections  of  the  E.  I.  Marine  Society  (organized  in  1799  by' the 
chief  officers  of  Salem  Indiamen).  This  hall  was  built  in  1825,  and  in 
1867  George  Peabody  gave  $ 140,000  for  the  promotion  of  knowledge  in 
Essex  County,  with  part  of  which  the  hall  was  purchased.  The  collec- 
tions remain  on  permanent  deposit  (open  daily,  except  Sunday  and  Mon- 
day, 9 - 12  a.  M.,  and  1 - 5 P.  M. ). 

Nearly  every  branch  of  natural  science  is  represented  in  the  extensive  and  well- 
arranged  cabinets  of  the  Essex  Institute.  The  Marine  Society’s  collection  em- 
braces a great  number  of  curiosities  brought  from  remote  lands.  There  are  musi- 
cal instruments  of  every  form  used  by  the  Oriental  nations,  and  a curious  array 
of  their  weapons  of  war.  Clothing,  utensils,  and  other  appointments  of  Hindoo 
daily  life  are  seen,  and  also  a large  and  well-conceived  tableau  of  court-life.  In  one 
part  of  the  hall  is  a complete  assortment  of  gods,  Hindoo,  Chinese,  and  Poly- 
nesian. The  models  of  naval  architecture  are  very  numerous,  and  mark  the  pro- 
gress from  the  rude  Esquimau  canoe  to  the  model  of  the  stately  and  heavily- 
armed  Salem  East  Indiaman,  the  “Grand  Turk.”  There  are  also  cabinets  filled 
with  aboriginal  American  and  Peruvian  antiquities,  mostly  stone  implements  and 
pottery.  The  gem  of  the  collections  is  a * piece  of  wood-carving  attributed  to  an 
Italian  monk  of  the  14th  century.  In  the  concavities  of  two  hemispheres  of  box- 
wood, each  inches  in  diameter,  he  has  carved  110  full-length  figures,  some  of 
which  are  full  of  expression.  One  hemisphere  represents  Heaven,  and  the  other 
Hell. 

Plummer  Hall  is  a fine  building  on  Essex  St.,  which  was  erected  with 
funds  left  to  the  Salem  Athenaeum  by  Miss  Plummer.  In  the  second 
story  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  halls  in  the  State,  with  white  Corinthian 
columns  at  the  sides,  and  some  old  portraits,  the  chief  of  which  is  a large, 
full-length  painting  of  Sir  William  Pepperell  in  his  favorite  red  costume. 
Oliver  Cromwell,  Secretary  Pickering,  Governors  Leverett,  Bradstreet, 
and  Endicott,  several  early  divines  and  ladies  of  the  colonial  era,  are  rep- 
resented in  these  old  portraits.  There  are  three  libraries  (Athenaeum, 
Essex  Institute,  and  S.  Essex  Medical  Society)  in  the  building,  with  an 
aggregate  of  43,000  volumes,  the  larger  part  of  which  are  in  the  hall. 
The  original  charter  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  given  by  King  Charles  I.  in 
1628,  is  preserved  here,  together  with  sundry  other  quaint  old  documents 
of  State.  Over  the  main  stairway  is  a graphic  painting  representing  a 
scene  in  the  witchcraft  days.  Behind  Plummer  Hall,  and  reached  by  pass- 
ing around  the  building,  is  the  oldest  church  edifice  in  the  Northern 
States.  It  was  built  in  1634  for  the  First  Church,  of  which  Boger  Wil- 
liams was  pastor,  and  was  used  for  38  years.  In  1672  a new  church  was 
built,  and  this  edifice  was  abandoned.  It  is  about  half  as  large  as  an 
ordinary  parlor,  and  has  a gallery,  a high-pointed  roof,  diamond-paned 
windows,  and  a few  relics  of  the  people  who  were  contemporary  with  it. 


SALEM. 


Route  37.  25 


The  Old  Witch  House  is  on  the  corner  of  Essex  and  North  Sts.  (a  one- 
story  shop  has  been  built  in  front  of  it).  It  dates  from  1642,  and  certain 
of  the  suspected  witches  were  tried  in  it.  Gallows  Hill  is  W.  of  the  city, 
and  commands  a broad  view  over  the  harbor  and  surrounding  country. 
Here  19  persons  were  put  to  death  during  the  witchcraft  delusion.  In 
Harmony  Grove  Cemetery,  W.  of  Salem,  George  Peabody  is  buried,  while 
in  the  village  of  Peabody  (2  M.  distant ; horse-cars  from  Salem)  is  shown 
the  house  where  he  was  born.  The  library  and  collections  of  the  Peabody 
Institute  are  worthy  of  a visit  (open  Wednesday  and  Saturday).  The 
most  notable  object  in  this  collection  is  the  * portrait  of  Queen  Victoria, 
given  by  her  to  George  Peabody.  It  is  14  by  10  inches  in  size,  painted 
on  enamel,  framed  with  blue  and  gold,  and  adorned  with  rich  jewels.  It 
is  said  to  have  cost  $30,000. 

Derby  Wharf  is  a long  and  well-constructed  wharf  on  the  S.  of  the  city, 
near  the  great  Naumkeag  Cotton  Mills.  It  was  formerly  the  focal  point 
of  the  E.  India  trade,  and  at  its  head  stands  the  old  Custom  House 
where  Hawthorne  was  employed  (his  birthplace  was  at  No.  21  Union 
St.).  The  Court  House  and  the  City  Hall  are  granite  buildings  near  the 
tunnel,  and  Chestnut  St.  is  an  elm-lined,  aristocratic  street,  which  is  called 
the  finest  in  the  city.  In  the  E.  is  the  broad  Common  known  as  Wash- 
ington Square,  with  the  brownstone  East  Church  (Unitarian)  fronting  on 
it.  In  this  vicinity  is  St.  Peter’s  Episcopal  Church,  an  old  and  massive 
stone  building. 

Salem  Neck  is  a peninsula  projecting  from  the  city  toward  the  sea,  nearly  unin- 
habited, and  the  seat  of  Fort  Pickering  and  the  Salem  Almshouse.  The  old 
ruined  batteries  on  the  Neck  were  favorite  haunts  of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  (see 
“American  Note-Books  ”). 

There  are  in  Salem  extensive  works  for  the  manufacture  of  railway  cars  ; also 
for  making  gunny-bags  ; while  the  Naumkeag  Cotton  Mills  employ  a large  num- 
ber of  workmen.  Immense  quantities  of  coal  are  handled  here,  being  landed  ou 
Phillips’  Wharf,  and  thence  carried  by  rail  into  the  interior.  The  city  is  abun- 
dantly supplied  with  water  by  an  aqueduct  leading  from  Wenham  Pond. 

In  1626  Roger  Conant  left  the  fishing  colony  on  Cape  Ann,  and  built  the  first 
house  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Naumkeag.*  In  1627  the  Plymouth  Company 
granted  to  certain  “ knights  and  gentlemen  of  Dorchester,  and  their  heirs,  assigns, 
and  associates  forever,  all  that  part  of  New  England  which  lies  between  a great 
river  called  Merrimac,  and  a certain  other  river  called  Charles.  ” J ohn  Endicott 
was  sent  over  in  1628,  and  founded  at  Naumkeag  the  capital  of  this  district.  The 
colony  was  “ called  Salem  from  the  peace  which  they  had  and  hoped  in  it.”  In 
1628  the  First  Church  was  formed,  and  in  1631  Philip  Ratcliffe  was  scourged,  had 
his  ears  cut  off,  and  suffered  banishment  and  confiscation  of  his  property,  “for 
blasphemy  against  the  church  of  Salem,  the  mother-church  of  all  this  Holy  Land.” 
The  militant  disposition  of  the  colonists  was  shown  by  the  fact  that  during  the 
first  few  years  they  imported  £ 18,000  worth  of  furniture,  building  materials,  &c., 
while  £ 22,000  worth  of  arms  and  artillery  was  brought  in  during  the  same  time. 
In  1629  there  were  10  houses  here,  besides  the  governor’s  house,  which  was  gar- 
nished with  great  ordnance,  “and  thus  wee  doubt  not  that  God  will  be  with  us, 
and  if  God  be  with  us,  who  can  be  against  us.”  In  midsummer,  1630,  Gov.  John 

* Naumkeag  is  said  to  be  an  Indian  word  meaning  “ Eel  land,”  but  Cotton  Mather  (who 
is  nothing  if  not  Oriental)  holds  to  its  derivation  fxom  the  Hebrew  words,  Nahum  (comfort) 
and  Keick  (haven). 


254  Route  37. 


SALEM. 


Winthrop  arrived  at  Salem  with  10  ships  and  a large  number  of  colonists.  The 
lovely  Lady  Arabella  J ohnson,  the  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Lincoln,  and  the  wife 
of  Isaac  Johnson,  the  wealthiest  of  the  colonists,  was  the  pride  of  the  settlement, 
and  the  flag-ship  of  the  fleet  was  named  for  her.  Before  leaving  England  she  in- 
sisted on  accompanying  her  husband,  — “ Whithersoever  your  fatail  destine  shall 
dryve  you,  eyther  by  the  furious  waves  of  the  great  ocean,  or  by  the  many-folde 
and  horrible  dangers  of  the  lande,  I wyl  surely  not  leave  your  company.  There 
can  no  peryll  chaunce  to  me  so  terrible,  nor  any  kinde  of  death  so  cruell,  that 
shall  not  be  much  easier  for  me  to  abyde  than  to  live  so  farre  separate  from  you.” 
Within  3 months  after  the  landing,  this  brave  patrician  lady  died  at  Salem  (and 
was  buried  near  Bridge  St.).  Her  husband  survived  her  but  a month. 

Winthrop  and  Johnson  moved  S.  to  Charlestown,  and  thence  to  Boston,  which 
soon  became  the  chief  town  and  capital  of  the  colony  (see  page  7).  Endicott,  Pea- 
body, and  others  remained  at  Salem,  and  built  mansions  near  North  River,  and 
the  former  led  the  1st  Mass.  Regiment  (organized  in  Essex  County,  in  1636)  in  a 
bloodless  and  successful  campaign  against  the  turbulent  Anglican  colony  at  Merry 
Mount  (Braintree).  In  1661  the  Quakers  were  persecuted  at  Salem,  and  in  1677 
the  Indians  on  the  coast  of  Maine  seized  20  vessels,  mostly  from  this  town,  while 
4 vessels  escaped  by  battle  and  returned  to  the  port,  bearing  19  wounded  men  and 
several  dead.  The  witchcraft  delusion  arose  in  1692  in  the  family  of  Samuel  Parris, 
pastor  of  the  adjacent  village  of  Danvers.  His  daughter  and  his  niece  accused 
Tituba,  a slave  of  the  household,  of  bewitching  them,  and  Parris  whipped  her 
until  she  confessed  it.  Tituba’s  husband,  under  the  influence  of  fear,  charged 
certain  other  persons  of  the  same  crime,  and  Parris  proclaimed  that  “the  Devil 
hath  been  raized  among  us,  and  his  rage  is  vehement  and  terrible,  and  when  he 
shall  be  silenced  the  Lord  only  knows.”  The  jail  of  Salem  was  crowded  with 
Essex  County  people  who  had  been  denounced  for  diabolical  communications.  19 
persons  were  hung  on  Gallows  Hill,  and  Giles  Cory  was  pressed  to  death.  Cotton 
Mather  was  a leader  in  these  persecutions,  which  lasted  for  16  months,  until  the 
government  became  aware  of  its  error,  and  released  the  scores  of  prisoners  from 
the  jail.  In  partial  extenuation  of  this  strange  delusion,  it  may  be  said  that  Lord 
Chief  Justice  Hale,  Lord  Bacon,  Sir  William  Blackstone,  Addison,  Johnson,  and 
other  distinguished  scholars  believed  in  the  reality  of  witchcraft  and  the  pro- 
priety of  its  punishment  by  death.  Quarter  of  the  population  of  Salem  left  the 
town  in  panic,  and  after  all  was  over,  Parris  acknowledged  his  error,  and  was 
dismissed  by  his  church. 

In  1774  Gov.  Gage  ordered  the  removal  of  the  legislature  from  the  closed  port 
of  Boston  to  Salem.  In  1776  a British  regiment  landed  here,  designing  to  destroy 
some  military  stores  in  N.  Salem,  but  they  failed  to  do  it.  Four  Essex  County 
regiments  were  enrolled  in  the  Continental  army,  while  the  fishermen  of  Salem 
armed  their  craft  and  became  privateersmen,  by  whom  445  British  vessels  were 
taken  during  the  Revolution.  After  the  war,  E.  H.  Derby  built  a fleet  of  fine 
ships,  and  opened  the  East  India  trade,  which  by  1818  engaged  53  Salem  ships  ; 
and  from  this  era  most  of  the  aristocracy  of  the  city  dates  its  origin. 

Salem  has  given  to  the  State,  Senator  Cabot,  and  Timothy  Pickering,  a Con- 
tinental officer,  who  became  successively  U.  S.  Postmaster-General  (1791-5), 
Secretary  of  War,  and  Secretary  of  State  (1795-1800).  He  was  also  a U.  S.  Sena- 
tor, 1803-11.  Gov.  Bradstreet,  “the  Nestor  of  New  England,”  and  Gov.  Endi- 
cott, spent  much  of  their  lives  in  Salem.  Gen.  Israel  Putnam,  of  the  Continental 
Army ; Gen.  F.  W.  Lander,  mortally  wounded  after  leading  in  some  brilliant 
•actions  of  the  War  for  the  Union  (1862)  ; and  F.  T.  Ward,  commander  of  the 
armies  of  China  until  he  was  killed  in  the  battle  of  Ningpo  in  1862,  were  all 
natives  of  Salem.  Also  were  born  here,  John  Rogers,  the  sculptor  ; N.  Bowditch, 
the  mathematician,  astronomer,  and  author  of  “The  Practical  Navigator”;  N. 

I.  Bowditch,  the  antiquarian  ; J.  Prince  and  N.  Adams,  clergymen  ; Benjamin 
Pierce,  the  mathematician  ; the  eminent  merchants,  Derby,  Crowninshield,  Phil- 
lips, and  Gray  ; MariaS.  Cummins,  the  novelist ; John  Pickering,  the  philologist ; 

J.  B.  Felt,  the  annalist ; and  W.  H.  Prescott,  born  1796,  the  author  of  histories 
of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  the  Conquest  of  Mexico,  the  Conquest  of  Peru,  and 
Philip  II.  of  Spain,  amounting  to  11  octavo  volumes,  and  translated  into  5 Euro- 
pean languages.  Nathaniel  Hawthorne,  one  of  the  sweetest  and  purest  of  Ameri- 
can prose-writers,  was  born  at  Salem  in  1804.  After  graduating  from  Bowdoin 
College  (1825),  he  settled  in  Salem,  and  from  1838  to  1841  was  in  the  Boston  Cus- 
tom House.  In  1841  he  joined  the  Brook  Farm  Community,  and  from  1843  to 


MARBLEHEAD. 


Punde  37.  255 


1S48  lie  lived  at  Concord.  1846-50  lie  was  surveyor  of  the  port  of  Salem,  and 
1853-  57  he  held  the  U.  S.  Consulate  at  Liverpool.  He  died  at  Plymouth,  N.  H., 
May  19,  1864.  The  most  important  of  his  works  of  romance  and  miscellanies  are, 
“The  Scarlet  Letter," — a weird  and  powerful  romance  of  the  early  colonial  days 
of  Massachusetts,  — and  “The  Marble  Faun,"  whose  scene  is  laid  in  Rome,  Peru- 
gia, and  the  Appenines. 

Four  branch  railroads  run  out  from  Salem. 

A line  crosses  the  towns  of  Peabody  and  Lynnfield,  to  Wakefield  on  the  Boston 
and  Maine  R.  R.  4 trains  daily  pass  into  Boston  by  this  route,  and  over  the  rails 
of  the  last-named  company. 

The  Salem  and  Lowell  R.  R.  (pertaining  to  the  Boston  and  Lowell  R.  R.)  runs 
from  the  station  near  Salem  Court  House,  to  Lowell  (24  M.).  Fare,  80  c. ; 3 trains 
daily  each  way.  This  line  crosses  Peabody  to  Ipswich  River,  which  it  follows  for 
6-7  M.,  and  then  passes  through  the  towns  of  N.  Reading,  Wilmington,  and 
Tewksbury,  to  Lowell. 

The  Lawrence  Branch  of  the  Eastern  R.  R.  runs  3 trains  daily  each  way  be- 
tween Salem  and  Lawrence,  through  the  towns  of  Danvers,  Middleton,  and  N. 
Andover. 

Another  branch  runs  to  Marblehead  (4  M.),  passing  the  Forest  River  Lead 
Works. 

Marblehead  (. Eldridge  House,  Forsyth  House ) is  built  on  a peninsula 
of  3,700  acres,  very  rocky  and  uneven.  It  was  incorporated  in  1635,  and 
a chronicler  of  that  time  calls  it  “ Marmaracria,  oppidum  maritimum, 
saxis  abundans.”  Whitefield  gazed  in  astonishment  upon  its  rocky  hills 
and  said,  “ Pray,  where  do  they  bury  their  dead  ? ” The  town  has  about 
8,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a narrow,  deep  harbor. 
It  was  formerly  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  but  has  latterly  turned  its  atten- 
tion to  the  shoe-manufactory.  A full  regiment  marched  from  this  town 
to  the  Continental  Army  ; the  crew  of  the  Constitution  frigate  was  mostly 
enlisted  here  ; and  it  is  said  that  the  town  sent  more  men  (in  proportion 
to  its  population)  to  the  Secession  War  than  any  other  place  in  the 
Union.  There  are  many  quaint  old  colonial  houses  here,  especially  the 
bank  building,  which  was  raised  in  1768  for  an  aristocratic  mansion,  and  is 
but  little  altered.  One  of  the  churches  was  built  in  1714,  and  is  still 
used  for  services. 

In  June,  18]  3,  there  occurred  a desperate  naval  battle  off  this  coast,  between  the 
American  frigate  “ Chesapeake  " and  the  British  frigate  “ Shannon."  The  vessels 
were  of  about  equal  size,  and  the  “Chesapeake"  had  sailed  from  Boston  (with  a 
picked-up  crew)  in  answer  to  a challenge  from  the  “ Shannon."  The  latter  vessel 
was  splendidly  handled,  and  after  a few  close  broadsides,  she  ran  alongside  the 
“Chesapeake"  and  carried  her  by  boarding,  after  a sharp  resistance  on  the  decks. 
The  American  Capt.,  Lawrence,  was  mortally  wounded  and  carried  below,  his 
last  words  being,  “Don’t  give  up  the  ship.”  The  English  Capt.,  Broke,  was  so 
badly  wounded  that  he  retired  from  the  service,  after  carrying  the  “ Chesapeake" 
into  Halifax  in  triumph,  and  being  knighted  for  his  gallant  achievement. 

Elbridge  Gerry  was  born  at  Marblehead  in  1744.  He  was  a Congressman, 
1776-85,  and  1789-93,  and  signed  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  but  refused 
to  sign  the  U.  S.  Constitution  (1787).  In  1812  he  was  elected  Vice-President  of 
the  U.  S. 

At  this  town  is  laid  the  scene  of  Whittier’s  poem,  “Skipper  Ireson’s  Ride.” 
Many  years  ago  Capt.  Ireson  refused  to  take  off  some  of  his  townsmen  from  a 
drifting  wreck,  because  of  the  expense  of  feeding  them  all  the  way  home.  On 
his  return  the  citizens  tarred  and  feathered  him,  and  rode  him,  in  one  of  his  own 
boats,  to  Salem  and  back,  he  remaining  silent  and  unresisting.  Whence  the  re- 
frain. 


256  Route  %7. 


BEVERLY. 


“ Old  Floyd  Ireson,  for  his  hard  heart, 

Tarred  and  feathered  and  carried  in  a cart 
By  the  women  of  Marblehead.” 

In  1775  this  town  was  only  second  to  Boston  in  population.  The  14th  Mass. 
Continental  Reg.,  raised  here  and  in  Salem,  was  one  of  the  elite  corps  of  the 
army,  and  was  called  “the  amphibious.”  It  ferried  the  army  across  the  East 
River  by  night  after  the  defeat  on  Long  Island,  led  the  van  in  crossing  the  Dela- 
ware to  the  battle  of  Trenton,  and  escorted  Burgoyne’s  captive  army  through 
New  England.  The  Marblehead  privateers  did  great  service  ; one  of  them  took  a 
British  ship  off  Boston,  laden  with  1,500  tons  of  powder  and  other  stores.  The 
“St.  Helena,”  10,  while  convoying  a fleet  to  Havana,  was  attacked  at  night  by 
the  British  brig,  “Lively.”  At  dawn,  after  a long  fight,  she  found  herself  under 
the  guns  of  the  line-of-battle-ship  “Jupiter.”  The  captive  Marblelieaders  were 
put  on  board  the  “ Lively,”  and  12  days  later  they  rose  and  took  her,  and  run  into 
Havana.  The  Embargo  (1810)  ruined  the  maritime  business  of  Marblehead,  and 
at  the  close  of  the  War  of  1812,  500  of  her  sailors  were  in  British  prisons. 

Marblehead  Neck  is  across  the  harbor  (2  M.  by  road,)  and  is  usually  dotted 
with  white  tents  during  the  summer.  Tinker’s  Island  (seen  to  the  S.)is  noted  for 
its  cunner-fisliing.  Massachusetts  Bay  was  stocked  with  cunners  (black  fish)  by 
some  Bostonians,  and  these  delicious  fish  have  propagated  rapidly. 

Lowell  Island  is  a small  island  5 M.  from  Salem,  which  is  occupied  by  a 
hotel  accommodating  300  guests.  The  island  covers  but  25  rocky  acres,  and  has 
good  sea-air,  with  views  of  Cape  Ann,  Beverly,  the  Satan  Rocks,  and  Marblehead 
with  its  trim  little  fort.  A steamer  runs  out  several  times  daily  from  Marblehead 
(2  M.). 

After  leaving  Salem  the  main  line  passes  through  a tunnel  600  ft.  long, 
and  crosses  North  River  on  a long  bridge,  between  which  and  the  highway 
bridge,  a few  rods  down  the  stream,  a fleet  of  yachts  is  moored  for  8 
months  of  the  year.  Station,  Beverly,  an  ancient  village  which  was 
settled  in  1630,  but  is  now  chiefly  known  for  its  extensive  shoe-factories, 
which  are  concentrated  about  the  public  square  near  the  station.  Lathrop 
St.  (named  after  Capt.  Lathrop,  a native  of  Beverly,  who  fell  at  the  head 
of  uthe  Flower  of  Essex,”  in  battle  near  Deerfield,  in  1675)  affords  a fine 
marine  promenade,  with  an  extensive  view  over  the  bay,  and  its  forts  and 
islands. 

Nathan  Dane,  who  resided  here  from  1775  to  1835,  was  an  eminent  jurist.  In 
1787  he  introduced  and  fought  through  Congress  a bill  excluding  slavery  forever 
from  the  vast  domain  N.  IV.  of  the  Ohio  River.  Robert  Rantoul,  Jr.,  a powerful 
and  popular  politician,  of  remarkable  purity  of  life  and  principles,  was  born  here 
in  1805.  He  filled  the  unexpired  term  of  Senator  Webster  in  1851.  Dr.  A.  P. 
Peabody,  the  eminent  Unitarian  divine,  was  also  a native  of  Beverly. 

Station,  Wenham  and  Hamilton.  Wenham  was  settled  about  1636, 
and  its  foundation  was  celebrated  by  Rev.  Hugh  Peters,  who  preached  on 
the  borders  of  its  lake,  from  the  text,  “ At  Enon,  near  to  Salem,  because 
there  was  much  water  there.”  The  town  was  called  Enon  for  many  years. 
An  English  tourist  of  1686  wrote,  “ Wenham  is  a delicious  paradise ; it 
abounds  with  rural  pleasures,  and  I would  choose  it  above  all  other  towns 
in  America  to  dwell  in.”  Wenham  Lake  has  a world-wide  reputation  for 
its  ice,  which  is  shipped  to  the  remotest  ports.  The  ice  is  kept  free  from 
snow,  and  is  cut  when  a foot  thick,  an  acre  producing  about  1,000  tons, 
which  is  stored  in  great  buildings  near  the  shore.  These  ice-houses  (seen 
to  the  1.  from  the  track)  have  double  walls  of  wood,  filled  in  with  saw- 


ipswicii. 


Route  37.  25  7 


dust,  and  preserve  tlie  ice  through  the  heats  of  summer.  Side-tracks  run 
to  the  ice-houses  by  which  it  is  carried  throughout  this  part  of  the 
country,  or  to  the  ships  at  Boston.  Salem  gets  its  water-supply  from 
this  lake  (the  large  reservoir  is  seen  on  a hill  to  the  S.  E. ),  and  the  water 
must  be  good  according  to  one  writer’s  d priori  reasoning,  — “ of  the  soft- 
ness and  purity  of  the  waters  of  Essex  County  there  can  be  no  doubt, 
for  its  ladies  are  noted  for  their  bloom  and  beauty.”  Gail  Hamilton  (Miss 
Mary  A.  Dodge)  resides  in  the  town  of  Hamilton  (named  after  Alexander 
Hamilton),  a quiet  farming  village  about  1J  M.  N.  E.  of  the  station.  A 
side-track  leads  here  to  the  1.  to  a large  and  favorite  Methodist  camp- 
ground, where  many  thousands  congregate  in  the  month  of  August.  It  is 
1 M.  from  the  station,  and  its  groves  are  filled  with  small  cottages.  60 
acres  of  land  are  included  in  this  Asbury  Camp-ground. ) 

A branch  railroad  runs  from  Wenham  to  Essex,  a small  shipbuilding  village 
near  the  sea.  Here  was  born,  in  1799,  Rufus  Choate,  a profound  and  skilful 
lawyer,  and  a brilliant  and  persuasive  orator,  who  was  U.  S.  Senator  in  1841  - 5, 
and  afterwards  Attorney-General  of  the  State. 

The  main  line  now  crosses  Ipswich  River,  and  stops  at  Ipswich 
(Agawam  House ; restaurant  in  the  station).  John  Norton,  of  whom 
Cotton  Mather  says  “he  spoke  like  Hortensius,  and  wrote  like  Abericus,” 
was  the  pastor  of  this  village  from  1636  to  1652.  His  colleague  was 
Nathaniel  Ward,  the  author  of  the  “Simple  Cobbler  of  Agawam,”  who 
was  rector  of  Stondon  Marcy,  Essex  County,  England,  until  silenced  by 
Archbishop  Laud  for  non-conformity.  Capt.  John  Smith,  in  1614,  spoke 
of  “the  many  cornfields  and  delightful  groves  of  Agawam,”  but  in  1632 
a fleet  of  100  canoes  filled  with  fierce  Tarratines  from  the  Penobscot  laid 
waste  this  fair  Indian  village  and  destroyed  many  of  its  people.  So  the 
coast  was  clear,  and  John  Winthrop  (afterwards  founder  of  New  London 
and  first  Gov.  of  Connecticut)  bought  the  town  of  the  Sagamore  Mascono- 
met  for  $ 100,  and  settled  here  in  1633. 

“ The  people  are  noted  for  their  hospitality  ; in  summer  the  sea-wind 
blows  cool  over  its  healthy  hills;  and  take  it  for  all  in  all,  there  is  not  a 
better  preserved  specimen  of  a Puritan  town  in  the  ancient  Common- 
wealth.” The  chief  village  is  situated  on  the  r.  of  the  track,  on  both  sides 
of  the  Ipswich  River,  which  is  crossed  by  two  stone  bridges,  one  of  which 
dates  from  1764.  The  County  House  of  Correction  and  Insane  Asylum 
are  located  here,  and  the  town  has  a fine  public  library,  which  was  given 
by  one  of  its  citizens.  There  are  about  3,700  inhabitants  in  the  town, 
which  has  some  manufactures  and  3 neat  churches.  This  is  the  seat  of 
Ipswich  Female  Seminary,  an  old  and  famous  school  “ wThere  Andover 
theological  students  are  wont  to  take  unto  themselves  wives  of  the 
daughters  of  the  Puritans.” 

A few  miles  to  the  E.,  down  the  river,  is  the  North  Ridge  on  Great 

Q 


258  Route  37. 


NEWBURYPORT. 


Neck,  and  Ipswich  Bluff,  a favorite  summer  camping-ground  for  fishing- 
parties. 

Station,  Rowley  (the  chief  village  is  over  a mile  S.  W. ),  a town  largely 
composed  of  salt  marsh.  It  was  settled  in  1638  by  a nomadic  church,  led 
by  Ezekiel  Rogers,  who  had  been  rector  of  Rowley  in  Yorkshire,  and  was 
silenced  for  Puritanism  (non-comformity.)  In  1650  he  died,  leaving  his 
library  to  Harvard  College,  and  his  estate  to  the  Rowly  Church.  The 
first  cloth  made  in  America  was  turned  out  from  works  erected  by  these 
immigrants.  The  line  now  runs  across  a wide  and  desolate  moor,  crosses 
the  Parker  River,  passes  the  Oldtown  Hills  on  the  r.,  crosses  the  Newbury- 
port  R.  R.  (Boston  and  Maine),  and  stops  at 

Newburyport. 

Hotels. — * Merrimac  House,  $2.50  a day;  Ocean  House.  Horse-Cars  to 
Amesbury  by  way  of  Merrimac  St.  Stages  to  Exeter  (75  ets.),  W.  Amesbury, 
Haverhill,  and  (in  summer)  to  Salisbury  Beach  and  Plum  Island  Beach.  Steamers 
to  Salisbury  Point  in  summer. 

Newburyport  is  an  ancient  sea-city,  beautifully  situated  on  a declivity 
facing  the  Merrimac  River,  and  within  3 M.  of  the  ocean,  which  is  seen 
from  its  wharves  and  house-tops.  It  has  about  12,000  inhabitants,  and  a 
valuation  (in  1870)  of  $7,427,700.  There  are  16  churches,  4 banks,  and 
a daily  and  two  weekly  newspapers.  The  chief  retail  trade  is  carried  on 
in  State  St.,  while  the  wholesale  trade  is  on  the  water-front,  which  is 
traversed  by  a marginal  steam -railway  connected  with  the  Eastern  Rail- 
road track.  Since  the  absorption  of  foreign  commerce  by  Boston,  New- 
buryport has  been  forced  to  adopt  the  policy  of  the  other  small  cities  of 
the  coast,  and  sustain  itself  by  manufactories,  while  the  old  marine  aris- 
tocracy has  isolated  itself  from  the  new  regime.  The  decadence  of  the 
city  is  shown  by  its  decrease  in  population  between  1860  and  1870,  which 
amounted  to  over  500.  The  streets  are  generally  broad,  straight,  and  quiet, 
while  great  numbers  of  shade-trees  are  found  in  every  part  of  the  place, 
being  cared  for  underthe  provisions  of  a fund  left  for  that  purpose  by  a 
public-spirited  citizen.  The  streets  which  run  up  from  the  river  are  short, 
and  terminate  at  High  St.,  a broad  and  umbrageous  avenue  which  runs 
along  the  crest  of  the  ridge  and  is  lined  with  mansions  of  the  olden  time. 
One  of  these  (near  the  head  of  Federal  St. ) is  the  home  of  Caleb  Cushing, 
the  eminent  jurist  and  diplomatist.  Near  the  head  of  Olive  St.  is  the 
mansion  formerly  occupied  by  Lord  Timothy  Dexter,  an  eccentric 
merchant  who  made  a large  fortune  by  singular  ventures  (sending  a cargo 
of  warming-pans  to  the  West  Indies,  and  other  speculations  of  a like 
nature).  On  High  St.,  near  State,  is  a pond  covering  six  acres,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a mall  and  terraced  promenade,  on  which  the  Essex  County 
Court  House  is  situated.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  Putnam  Free  School,  a 
high  school  of  wide  reputation,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  while  St. 


NEWBURYPORT. 


Route  37.  2 5 9 


Paul’s  Episcopal  Church  and  the  graceful  Gothic  Chapel  of  St.  Anne  are 
but  a short  distance  beyond  (on  High,  near  Market  St.).  The  City  Hall 
is  a large,  plain  building  fronting  on  Brown  Square,  near  which  are  the 
North  Church,  the  1st.  Baptist,  and  the  Unitarian  (the  latter  having  a 
tall  and  graceful  spire). 

The  Public  Library  was  founded  by  Josiah  Little  and  well  endowed  by 
George  Peabody.  It  occupies  the  old  Tracy  mansion  (on  State  St.)  where 
Washington,  Lafayette,  and  other  noble  guests  have  been  received  in  the 
palmy  days  of  the  place.  The  two  upper  stories  are  now  formed  into  a 
hall,  containing  about  13,000  books,  while  on  the  lower  story  is  a large 
public  reading-room  (magazines  and  newspapers).  The  Marine  Museum 
(open  daily;  on  State  St.)  contains  a collection  of  curiosities  brought  in  by 
the  ships  of  Newburyport.  Besides  the  usual  mementoes  of  distant  lands 
and  peoples,  there  are  shown  some  very  elaborate  and  handsome  models 
of  ships. 

Oak  Hill  Cemetery  is  a beautiful  rural  burying-ground  on  State  St., 
beyond  High.  It  is  entered  through  a noble  granite  gateway,  bearing  the 
inscription,  “ Until  the  daybreak,  and  the  shadows  flee  away.”  State 
St.  runs  out  into  the  country,  and  is  prolonged  (under  the  name  of  the 
Newburyport  Turnpike)  through  Salem  and  Lynn  to  Boston.  It  was 
formerly  the  road  traversed  by  the  great  northern  and  eastern  stage-lines. 
The  Old  South  (Presbyterian)  Church  is  on  Federal  St.,  and  has  long 
since  entered  upon  its  second  century.  In  a vault  under  the  pulpit  of 
this  church  are  the  mortal  remains  of  George  Whitefield,  the  founder  of 
the  Calvinistic  Methodists,  who  died  in  Newburyport  in  1770.  This 
church  also  has  a fine  whispering-gallery,  only  equalled  by  the  one  at  St. 
Paul’s,  London  (the  sexton  lives  in  the  small  house  next  to  the  church). 
The  two-story  wooden  house  back  of  the  Old  South  was  the  birthplace 
of  William  Lloyd  Garrison. 

The  river  and  harbor  and  neighboring  sea  afford  fine  opportunities  for  sailing 
and  fishing,  in  the  summer,  which  are  utilized  by  a large  fleet  of  pleasure-boats. 
A favorite  drive  is  to  the  Chain  Bridge  (about  3 M.  up  river),  a place  of  rare 
natural  beauty,  with  the  large  stone  mansion,  “ Hawkswood,”  on  one  bank,  and 
on  the  other  the  castellated  and  far-viewing  house  occupied  for  several  seasons  by 
Sir  Edward  Thornton,  the  British  Ambassador.  Amesbury  is  but  a short  dis- 
tance beyond  the  bridge,  while  the  river-road  to  Haverhill  passes  through  pleas- 
ing scenery.  “ The  Laurels”  are  by  the  river-side  above  the  bridge,  and  excur- 
sions are  frequently  made  to  their  cool  and  sequestered  groves. 

The  Devil’s  Den  is  an  old  excavation  in  the  limestone  ledges,  about  2 M.  S.  of 
the  city  (by  State  St.).  Asbestos,  amianthus,  and  serpentine  are  found  there. 
Dummer  Academy  is  about  3 M.  beyond  this  point,  and  is  an  ancient  and  famous 
school,  which  was  founded  and  endowed  by  Gov.  Dummer  in  1756.  Near  the 
Academy  is  Dummer  Avenue,  with  the  finest  lines  of  elm-trees  in  Essex  County. 

3 - 4 M.  from  the  city  is  the  ancient  and  picturesque  Indian  Hill  mansion  of 
Ben  Perley  Poore,  the  author  and  journalist.  This  broad  and  rambling  old  house 
may  be  called  the  Abbotsford  of  New  England,  so  many  are  the  historic  curiosi- 
ties which  have  been  gathered  here.  The  old  Garrison  House  is  near  Oldtown 
Green,  and  is  a well-preserved  specimen  of  the  massive  defensive  architecture  of 
the  early  colonial  days.  It  was  built  during  the  17th  century,  and  has  suffered 
but  little  change. 


260  Route  37. 


SALISBURY  BEACH. 


The  continuation  of  High  Street  by  Oldtown  Green  to  Pipe-Stave  Hill  (which 
commands  a broad,  sea- view)  and  Parker  River,  affords  a drive  through  a well- 
settled  rural  district,  which  has  an  English  air,  in  the  carefulness  of  its  cultiva- 
tion and  the  antiquity  of  its  houses.  Plum  Island  is  2-3  M.  E.  of  Newbury  port, 
and  is  “ a wild  and  fantastic  sand-beach,  reaching  to  Ipswich,  10-12  M.  distant, 
and  thrown  up,  by  the  joint  power  of  winds  and  waves,  into  the  thousand  wanton 
figures  of  a snow-drift.”  It  is  joined  to  the  city  by  a causeway,  and  has  a hotel 
and  two  lighthouses,  near  the  N.  end.  The  beach  slopes  rapidly,  and  having  a 
strong  undertow,  is  not  used  for  bathing,  but  the  breaking  of  the  sea  on  this  bold 
shore  after  a storm  affords  a grand  sight. 

Salisbury  Beach  (stages  semi-daily  in  summer)  is  4 M.  from  New- 
buryport, on  the  N.  side  of  the  Merrimac.  The  farming  town  of  Salis- 
bury is  traversed,  after  crossing  the  river.  This  town  was  settled  in 
1638,  and  named  (in  1640)  in  compliment  to  its  first  pastor,  who  came 
from  Salisbury  in  England.  Many  ancient  houses  are  to  be  seen  here ; 
among  others  the  birthplaces  of  Caleb  Cushing  and  of  Abigail,  the 
mother  of  Daniel  Webster  ; also  the  audience-room  of  the  royal  commis- 
sioners of  1699,  and  the  provincial  boundary  council  in  1737.  A long 
plank-road  runs  across  the  marshes  to  the  beach  {Atlantic  House),  which 
is  6 M.  long,  extending  from  the  Merrimac  to  the  Hampton  River.  The 
sand  is  hard,  smooth,  and  gently  sloping,  and  is  well  adapted  for  long 
drives,  and  for  bathing  (there  is  no  undertow).  The  low  ridge  of  sand 
above  the  high-tide  line  is  taken  up  by  a line  of  cottages  which  extends 
for  over  a mile  along  the  shore.  Many  tents  are  pitched  on  the  sands 
during  the  summer,  and  Whittier’s  poem,  “The  Tent  on  the  Beach,” 
well  describes  this  mode  of  life  and  the  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
beach  (where  its  scene  was  laid).  1J  M.  S.  of  the  Atlantic  House  is  the 
mouth  of  the  Merrimac  River,  with  the  picturesque  ruins  of  an  abandoned 
fort  (built  to  command  the  entrance),  while  the  city  of  Newburyport  is 
in  full  sight  up  the  river.  Plum  Island  and  Cape  Ann  are  seen  on  the  S. 
from  the  beach,  and  Boar’s  Head,  the  Isles  of  Shoals,  and  Mt.  Agamenti- 
cus  on  the  N.  and  N.  E.  Following  a custom  which  is  now  two  centuries 
old,  the  people  of  the  surrounding  towns  congregate  here  every  year  on  a 
day  late  in  August,  and  enjoy  themselves.  Sometimes  more  than  25,000 
people  assemble  on  those  days. 

Newbury  was  settled  in  1635  by  a colony,  under  the  pastor  Thomas  Parker,  1 
which  entered  the  river  since  called  Parker,  in  the  ship  “ Hector.”  There  are  but 
few  towns  in  New  England  whose  annals  are  so  peaceful  as  are  those  of  Newbury, 
which  in  the  238  years  of  its  history  has  not  felt  the  tread  of  a hostile  foot,  nor  seen 
the  flash  of  a hostile  gun.  The  interests  of  the  maritime  village  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Merrimac  were  found  to  be  so  different  from  those  of  the  farming  town  of 
Newbury,  that  Newburyport  received  a separate  organization  in  1764.  In  1772, 
90  vessels  were  built  here,  but  the  Revolution  and  the  drain  of  men  for  the  Essex 
County  regiments  checked  the  prosperity  of  the  place,  and  in  1788  only  3 vessels 
were  built.  President  Dwight  says  of  the  village  in  1796,  “Indeed,  an  air  of 

1 Parker  studied  at  Magdalen  College,  Oxford,  and  early  distinguished  himself  by  writing 
two  wonderful  Latin  books,  — “ De  Traductione  Peccatoris  ” and  “ Methodus  Divinae 
Gratiae.”  When  old  and  blind,  “ the  Homer  of  New  England,”  he  had  a long  controversy 
with  President  Chauncey.  “ He  went  unto  the  immortals,  in  April,  1677,  in  the  82nd  year 
of  his  age.” 


NEWBURY  PORT. 


Routes 7.  2G1 


wealth,  taste,  and  elegance  is  spread  over  this  beautiful  spot,  with  a cheerfulness 
and  brilliancy  to  which  I know  no  rival.”  Washington,  Lafayette,  Talleyrand, 
Louis  Philippe  of  France,  and  other  famous  men  were  entertained  here  by  the 
aristocratic  families.  An  extensive,  foreign  commerce  was  firmly  established,  and 
in  1807  the  tonnage  of  the  port  was  over  30,000.  The  Embargo  fell  with  crushing 
force  upon  this  maritime  industry,  and  the  Great  Fire  of  1811,  which  swept  away 
16  acres  from  the  most  densely  built  quarter,  checked  the  prosperity  of  the  town, 
and  reduced  its  population  to  6,388.  Its  valuation  in  1810  was  about  the  same  as 
in  1870.  The  town  grew  slowly,  and  its  Merrimac-built  ships  were  famous  through- 
out the  world  for  fleetness,  strength,  and  symmetry,  and  were  made  in  large  num- 
bers until  the  decline  of  American  commerce.  The  cotton-manufacture  was  com- 
menced here  in  1836,  and  is  now  the  leading  business  of  the  place,  although  con- 
siderable attention  is  paid  to  the  coasting  trade,  and  there  is  a large  fishing  fleet 
belonging  to  the  port.  The  carriage  bridge  across  the  Merrimac  was  built  in 
1827,  and  the  Chain  Bridge,  above  the  city,  was  the  first  suspension  bridge  in 
America,  and  the  second  in  the  world.  The  great  turnpike  running  to  Malden 
Bridge  and  Boston  was  finished  in  1806,  at  an  expense  of  $ 420,000. 

Among  the  natives  of  Newburyport  were,  the  lawyers,  Charles  Jackson,  Simon 
Greenleaf,  John  Lowell,  Joseph  Blunt,  and  Theophilus  Parsons  ; the  physicians, 
James  Jackson  and  W.  Ingalls  ; the  inventors,  Jacob  Perkins  and  Edmund  Blunt ; 
the  poets,  Lucy  Hooper  and  H.  C.  Knight ; the  authors,  George  Wood,  George 
Lunt,  S.  L.  Knapp,  and  Hannah  F.  Lee  ; the  divines,  J.  Greenleaf,  Bishop  Clarke, 
Gardner  Spring,  G.  R.  Noyes,  and  Stephen  H.  Tyng  ; the  generals,  Michael  Jack- 
son  (Revolutionary  War,  commander  of  the  Sth  Mass.),  and  N.  T.  Jackson  (Secession 
War) ; and  the  senators,  William  Plumer  and  Tristram  Dalton.  Among  those  long 
resident  here  were  Hannah  F.  Gould,  the  poetess  ; J.  B.  Gough,  the  temperance 
orator ; Caleb  Cushing,  Rufus  King,  J.  Q.  Adams,  and  Harriet  Prescott  Spofford. 

William  Lloyd  Garrison,  “the  leader  of  the  emancipationist  movement  in  the 
U.  S.”  was  born  at  Newburyport  in  1804.  He  began  to  advocate  the  immediate 
abolition  of  slavery  about  1830,  and  led  the  movement  in  that  direction  until  it 
was  accomplished,  bravely  enduring  many  persecutions. 

A short  branch  railroad  leads  from  Newburyport  to  Amesbury  (two  hotels),  a 
large  and  prosperous  manufacturing  village. 

John  G.  Whittier,  “the  Quaker  Poet”  (born  at  Haverhill  in  1807)  has  lived  in 
Amesbury  since  1840.  His  earlier  years  were  spent  in  farming  and  journalism, 
and  he  was  a fearless  pioneer  of  the  cause  of  Antislavery,  to  whose  advancement 
his  life  was  devoted.  He  is  peculiarly  the  poet  of  New  England,  and  has  written 
admirable  descriptions  of  its  rural  life  and  society.  The  ancient  towns  of  N. 
Essex  and  the  surrounding  seas  have  been  illustrated  by  his  legendary  poems, 
especially  by  “Snow-Bound,”  “The  Tent  on  the  Beach,”  and  the  “Ballads  of 
New  England.” 

After  leaving  Newburyport,  the  Portland  train  crosses  the  Merrimac 
River  at  a high  level,  on  a costly  and  massive  new  bridge,  1500  ft.  long. 
Fine  views  are  afforded  (to  the  r.)  of  the  city  and  river,  with  the  ocean  in 
the  distance.  Stations,  E.  Salisbury  and  Seabrook , a thinly  settled  town, 
whose  territory  is  mostly  covered  with  forests  and  salt  marsh,  and  whose 
name  is  derived  from  the  numerous  brooks  which  flow  through  it  to  the 
sea.  Many  of  the  people  are  engaged  in  making  whale-boats,  and  the 
inhabitants  of  the  seaward  part  of  the  town  (S.  Seabrook)  long  bore  an 
unenviable  reputation.  Their  physiognomy,  dialect,  and  clothing  were 
so  marked  and  unique  that  they  were  always  recognized  in  the  neighboring 
city  and  designated  as  “Algerines.”  A religious  and  educational  mission 
was  established  here  about  1866,  and  is  now  self-supporting  and  prolific 
in  benefits.  Seabrook  was  settled  in  1638,  and  was  often  harried  during 
the  Indian  wars. 

Station,  Hampton  Falls , S.  E.  of  the  village  of  the  same  name,  which 


262  Route  37. 


HAMPTON  BEACH. 


has  a large  monument  erected  by  the  State  to  Mesliech  Weare,  the  first 
President  of  N.  H.  (1776-85). 

Dr.  Langdon,  chaplain  of  the  N.  H.  regiment  in  the  Louisburg  expedition, 
received  10,000  acres  of  land  in  N.  H.  for  “his  services,  fatigues,  and  dangers.” 
He  was  President  of  Harvard  University,  1774-80,  and  pastor  at  Hampton  Falls, 
1781-97,  and  at  his  death  he  left  his  fine  library  to  the  village  church.  In  August, 
1737,  the  Governor  of  Mass,  rode  to  this  little  hamlet  at  the  head  of  the  Legis- 
lature and  escorted  by  5 troops  of  horse.  Here,  in  the  George  Tavern,  he  had 
long  conferences  about  the  provincial  boundaries,  with  the  Governor  and  Legis- 
lature of  N.  H.  The  latter  demanded  the  territory  which  now  composes  her  two 
lower  tiers  of  towns,  which  had  been  settled  by  Mass,  men  under  Mass,  charters. 
The  Governors  failed  to  agree,  and  an  appeal  was  sent  to  the  King,  setting  forth 
how  “ the  vast,  opulent,  and  overgrown  province  of  Mass,  was  devouring  the  poor, 
little,  loyal,  distressed  province  of  N.  IT.”  The  royal  heart  was  touched,  and  the 
King  Commanded  Mass,  to  surrender  two  tiers  of  towns  (28  in  number)  from  the 
Conn.  River  to  the  sea. 

The  railroad,  now  passes  over  long  tracts  of  salt-meadow,  on  the  E.  of 
which  is  Plampton  Beach  and  the  ocean.  Station,  Hampton,  an  ancient 
village  which  was  settled  in  1333,  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Winnicummet, 
and  near  a block-house  erected  by  Mass,  in  1636  to  mark  its  N.  E.  border. 
The  first  settlers  were  from  Norfolk  in  England,  and  were  long  exposed 
to  pitiless  attacks  from  the  Indians.  The  town  is  now  a quiet  and 
pleasant  land  of  peace  and  plenty,  abounding  in  gray  old  colonial  man- 
sions, and  traversed  by  broad  and  level  roads.  The  village  near  the 
station  ( Union  House , good)  has  three  churches  in  the  old  Puritan  archi- 
tecture. Stages  run  from  the  station  to  Hampton  Beach,  3 M.  to  the 
S.  E.  (*  Boar’s  Head  Hotel,  300  guests ; * Leavitt’s  Hampton  Beach 
Hotel;  Eagle  House;  and  at  the  Lower  Beach , the  Ocean  House,  160 
guests;  Couch  House.)  Besides  the  hotels,  there  are  many  small  summer 
cottages  on  and  near  the  beach.  Boar’s  Head  is  a bold  bluff  70  ft.  high, 
which  projects  into  the  sea  from  a stony  strand,  and  affords  the  best  marine 
views  on  the  N.  H.  coast.  On  the  S.  is  the  long  and  vague  line  of  the 
beaches  which  front  Essex  North  and  stretch  by  Newburyport  to  Cape 
Ann,  while  Mt.  Agamenticus  is  seen  in  the  N.  beyond  Rye  with  its  village 
of  hotels,  and  the  Isles  of  Shoals  are  off  shore  on  the  N.  E.  The  Boar’s 
Head  Hotel  is  favorably  situated  on  the  little  grassy  plateau  on  the  bluff, 
and  has  a fine  sea-view.  (See  Whittier’s  poem,  “ Hampton  Beach.”) 

From  the  vicinity  of  Boar’s  Head  a sandy  beach  extends  S.  to  Hampton 
River,  where  many  vessels  were  made  in  the  colonial  days.  The  river 
forms  a safe  harbor  for  coasters,  though  its  entrance  is  fringed  with  .rocks 
and  shoals.  Its  clams  are  famous,  and  water-fowl  formerly  abounded, , 
while  the  settlement  of  Hampton  was  due  to  the  abundance  of  salt  hay  on 
its  marshes.  Salisbury  Beach  begins  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  river,  and 
extends  to  the  Merrimac.  At  half  and  low  tide  may  be  seen  the  rocks 
off  shore,  of  which  Whittier  sings  (in  “ The  Wreck  of  Rivermouth  ”):  — 

“ Rivermouth  Rocks  are  fair  to  see, 

By  dawn  or  sunset  shone  across, 

When  the  ebb  of  the  sea  has  left  them  free 
To  dry  their  fringes  of  gold-green  moss  ; 


RYE  BEACH. 


Route  37.  263 


“ For  there  the  river  comes  winding  down 
From  salt  sea-meadows  and  uplands  brown, 

And  waves  on  the  outer  rocks  al'oam 
Shout  to  its  waters,  ‘ Welcome  Home.’ 

“ Once,  in  the  old  Colonial  days, 

Two  hundred  years  ago  and  more, 

A boat  sailed  down  the  winding  ways 
Ot  Hampton  River  to  that  low  shore.” 

North  Beach  lies  to  the  N.  of  Boar’s  Head,  and  was  formerly  lined 
with  fish-houses  from  which  the  hardy  fishermen  put  out  to  sea  in  small 
boats.  A road  runs  N.  near  this  stony  strand,  to  Little  Boar’s  Head  and 
Bye  Beach.  The  beach  at  Hampton  is  composed,  for  the  most  part,  of 
a gradual  slope  seaward  of  hard  sand,  affording  fine  facilities  for  surf- 
bathing and  also  for  driving  (at  low  tide).  The  favorite  drives  from 
Hampton,  inland,  are  to  Exeter,  to  the  rich  fruit-growing  town  of  Green- 
land, to  the  ancient  village  of  Hampton  Falls,  and  to  Stratham  Hill. 

The  next  railroad  station  is  N,  Hampton , in  a sparsely  populated  farm- 
ing town.  Stages  run  throughout  the  summer  to  Rye  Beach  (the 
Ocean  House  was  burnt  in  March,  1873;  * Farragut  House,  by  Mrs. 
Pliilbrick  and  Son,  250-300  guests,  at  $3  - 3.50  a day;  Sea  View  House, 
new,  accommodating  150  guests;  Washington  House;  the  Surf  House 
was  burnt  in  October,  1872.  There  are  also  several  first-class  board- 
ing-houses near  the  beach).  Bye  is  the  most  fashionable  of  the  N. 
H.  beaches,  and  presents  an  agreeable  alternation  of  sharp  and  storm- 
worn  ledges  with  strips  of  sand  on  which  bathing  is  safe  and  pleas- 
ant. On  the  S.  is  Little  Boar’s  Head,  a sea-beaten  bluff  on  which 

several  fine  cottages  have  been  built,  together  with  a large  private 
boarding-house.  A long,  sandy  beach  stretches  N.  E.  from  Jenness  Beach 
to  Straw's  Point , which  was  bought  a few  years  since  by  Gov.  Straw,  and 
is  now  occupied  by  the  fine  seaside  cottages  of  several  N.  H.  gentlemen. 
An  extensive  marine  view  is  obtained  from  this  point,  from  Boone  Island 
Light  on  the  N.  E.  to  Cape  Ann  on  the  S.,  embracing  nearly  40  M.  of 

coast.  The  view  of  the  Isles  of  Shoals  on  the  E.  is  very  satisfactory. 

Drake  is  of  the  opinion  that  “ the  shore  full  of  white  sand,  but  very  stony  and 
rocky,”  near  which  Capt.  Gosnold  anchored  (in  1602),  was  Rye  Beach.  The  town 
of  Rye  was  settled  in  1635,  and  was  named  from  the  English  home  of  some  of  the 
immigrants.  In  1696  a flotilla  of  Indians  attacked  the  people  at  Sandy  Beach  and 
killed  or  captured  21  of  them.  In  the  same  year  the  colonists  retaliated  by  at- 
tacking an  Indian  band  while  at  breakfast.  The  hill  where  this  action  took  place 
(to  the  r.  of  Greenland  station)  has  ever  since  been  called  Breakfast  Hill.  The 
little  town  lost  38  men  in  the  Revolutionary  War.  Large  sea-walls  of  pebbles  are 
seen  near  the  Rye  beaches,  which  were  thrown  up  by  the  waves  in  the  great  storm 
which  destroyed  Minot’s  Ledge  Lighthouse. 

Beyond  N.  Hampton  is  Greenland  station,  in  a small  fruit-growing 
town.  Station, 

Portsmouth. 

Hotels.  * Rockingham  House,  a superbly  frescoed  and  marble-paved  hotel 
of  the  first  class,  accommodating  250-300  guests;  American  House;  National 
House. 


264  Route  87. 


PORTSMOUTH. 


Railroads,  to  Saco  and  Portland  ; to  Newburyport,  Salem,  and  Boston  ; to 
N.  Conway  and  the  White  Mts.  ; to  Manchester  and  Concord.  Stages  to  Kittery 
and  York.  Steamers  daily  (in  summer)  in  1 hr.  to  the  Isles  of  Shoals  ; also  to 
the  Marshall  House,  at  York  ; a small  steam  ferry-boat  plies  between  Portsmouth 
and  the  Navy  Yard. 

The  site  of  Portsmouth  was  first  visited  by  Capt.  Pring  in  1603,  and  afterwards 
by  Capt.  Smith  in  1614.  In  1623  it  was  settled  (on  Odiorne’s  Point)  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Laconia  Company.  A small  fort  armed  with  several  cannon  was 
erected  on  Great  Island  in  1635.  The  town  was  called  Strawberry  Bank  until 
1653,  on  account  of  the  abundance  of  strawberries  which  grew  on  its  hills  and 
around  the  “ Great  House  ” of  the  proprietor,  Capt.  Mason.  The  people  chose 
Portsmouth  as  “ a name  most  suitable  for  this  place,  it  being  the  river’s  mouth, 
and  as  good  as  any  in  the  land,”  although  they  probably  accepted  the  idea  from 
Capt.  Mason,  “the  founder  of  N.  H.,”  and  proprietor  of  its  islands,  who  had 
long  been  governor  of  the  South  Sea  Castle,  in  the  harbor  of  Portsmouth,  Eng- 
land. The  village  was  fortified  with  palisades  which  effectually  guarded  it  from 
Indian  marauders,  who  were  repulsed  by  cannon  in  1676.  In  1696,  a party  landed 
near  the  Plains  from  'a  fleet  of  canoes  and  killed  14  Englishmen.  In  1739,  the 
town’s-people  firmly  resisted  the  annexation  of  N.  H.  to  Mass.,  and  thus  secured 
the  provincial  independence  of  the  former.  In  1746,  a new  16-gun  battery  was 
built  near  Fort  William  and  Mary,  on  Great  Island,  and  a 9-gun  battery  was  built 
at  Little  Harbor,  to  resist  the  expected  French  Armada.  In  Dec.,  1774,  Sullivan 
took  Fort  William  and  Mary  by  surprise  (with  Rockingham  County  volunteers), 
and  carried  away  100  barrels  of  powder  and  15  cannon,  and  in  1775,  the  same 
gentleman  led  the  3d  N.  H.  Regiment  to  the  Continental  camp  at  Cambridge. 
At  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  De  Warville  found  here  “ a thin  population,  many 
houses  in  ruins,  women  and  children  in  rags,  and  everything  announcing  decline.” 
A brisk  era  of  maritime  prosperity  soon  carried  the  town  to  a higher  level,  and 
many  fine  mansions  were  built  for  the  new  families  of  consequence.  But  the 
Embargo,  a succession  of  disastrous  fires,  and  the  decline  of  its  commerce,'  fully 
checked  this  tide  of  prosperity,  and  the  city  (chartered  in  1S49)  has  long  been 
losing  ground.  Between  1853  and  1870  it  lost  over  1,800  inhabitants. 

Portsmouth,  the  capital  of  New  Hampshire  from  1712  to  1807,  and  its 
only  seaport,  is  a quaint  and  pleasant  old  city  (of  9,211  inhabitants),  i 
situated  on  a peninsula  3 M.  from  the  mouth  of  the  Piscataqua  River.  ■ 
“ There  are  more  quaint  houses  and  interesting  traditions  in  Portsmouth 
than  in  any  other  town  in  New  England.”  The  Mansard  mania  has  not 
reached  these  quiet  and  shaded  streets,  and  the  prevailing  architecture 
seems  to  be  that  of  the  colonial  days.  There  is  a fine  U.  S.  building 
here,  also  a few  neat  churches,  while  the  Parade,  or  central  square,  ex- 
hibits two  or  three  specimens  of  curious  old  architecture.  The  city  has 
4 banks,  9 churches,  2 daily  and  3 weekly  newspapers  (of  which  the 
jV.  II.  Gazette  is  the  oldest  American  paper  continuously  published, 
having  been  established  in  1756).  There  are  also  manufactories  of  shoes, 
carriages,  furniture,  cotton  goods,  &c.  The  quietness  of  the  city,  its 
salubrious  sea-air,  the  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  nearness 
of  fine  beaches,  render  Portsmouth  a favorite  and  desirable  summer-re- 
sort. The  Athenaeum  (on  Market  Square)  has  about  12,000  volumes  and 
a large  reading-room.  The  old  Church  of  St.  J ohn  is  worthy  of  a visit, 
and  so  is  Gov.  Wentworth’s  mansion  at  Little  Harbor  (2  M.  distant). 
This  is  a large,  irregular,  and  picturesque  building  (dating  from  1750) 
which  contains  the  old  provincial  council-chamber,  and  many  quaint 


THE  ISLES  OF  SIIOALS. 


Route  37.  2 65 


relies  of  the  past,  among  which  some  portraits  by  Copley  will  be  noticed. 
George  Washington  paid  a visit  to  this  mansion  while  the  Wentworths 
were  still  there  (it  passed  out  of  their  hands  in  1817).  Portsmouth  Har- 
bor is  one  of  the  best  in  New  England,  always  free  from  ice,  70-80  ft. 
deep,  and  the  river  is  f M.  wide  opposite  the  city. 

Portsmouth  has  given  to  American  literature,  T.  B.  Aldrich,  J T.  Fields,  B.  P. 
Shillaber,  and  Eliza  B.  Lee  ; to  the  church,  Dr.  Nichols  and  Bishop  Parker ; to 
the  bar.  Judges  Livermore  and  Langdon,  and  the  Atkinsons  : to  the  State,  Gov. 
Banning  Wentworth,  Sir  John  Wentworth,  and  Senator  John  Langdon  ; and  to 
the  navy,  Commodores  Parrott  and  Long,  and  Commander  Craven. 

Opposite  Portsmouth  (steam-ferry  frequently  from  the  foot  of  Daniel 
St.)  is  the  TJ.  S.  Navy  Yard,  on  Continental  Island,  in  the  town  of  Kittery 
(Maine).  It  has  extensive  ship-houses,  machine-shops,  rigging-lofts, 
wharves,  and  barracks;  also  a dry-dock  which  cost  $ 800,000. 

This  city  has  ever  been  famed  for  its  naval  architecture.  In  1690,  the  “ Falk- 
land,” 54  guns,  was  built  here  ; in  1696,  the  “ Bedford,”  32  ; in  1749,  the  “ Amer- 
ica,” 40  ; in  1776,  the  “Raleigh,”  32;  in  1777,  the  “Ranger,”  18;  in  1784,  the 
“ America,”  a superb  line-of-battle  ship,  which  was  presented  by  Congress  to  the 
King  of  France.  During  this  century  many  war-vessels  have  been  built  here, 
chief  among  which  is  the  frigate  “ Congress.” 

Kittery  Point  village,  near  the  Navy  Yard  and  Fort  McClary,  has  the  ancient 
Pepperell,  Sparhawk,  and  Cutts  mansions,  fine  old  colonial  houses,  filled  with  the 
remnants  of  their  quaint  furniture.  Pepperell’s  tomb  is  near  the  first-named. 

Sir  William  Peppered  was  born  at  Kittery  Point  in  1696.  He  rose  rapidly  in 
the  colonial  military  service  until  1745,  when  he  commanded  the  expedition  which 
took  Louisburg,  for  which  he  was  knighted.  He  occupied  important  positions  in 
New  England,  was  made  a lieut.-gen.  in  the  British  army,  and  Gov.  of  Mass.,  and 
died  in  1759.  His  grandson.  Sir  W.  P.  Sparhawk,  assumed  the  Peppered  name 
and  inherited  the  vast  estates,  which  were  sequestrated  in  1778,  on  account  of 
his  adherence  to  the  British  government  in  opposition  to  America. 

The  * Isles  of  Shoals  are  10  M.  from  Portsmouth,  and  consist  of  8 
rocky  islets  (9  M.  from  the  shore),  the  largest  of  which  contains  350 
acres.  There  is  but  little  vegetation  on  these  rugged  ledges,  which  lift 
themselves  out  of  deep  water,  and  are  surrounded  by  the  purest  and 
coolest  sea-air. 

The  steamer  leaves  Portsmouth  in  the  morning,  and  affords  a fine  retro- 
spect of  the  city.  The  public  works  and  national  vessels  at  the  Navy 
Yard  are  soon  passed,  and  then  the  island-town  of  Newcastle  (on  the  r. ). 
This  town  was  settled  before  1630,  and  incorporated  in  1693.  It  was  the 
site  of  old  Fort  William  and  Mary,  and  now  has  the  powerful  Fort  Con- 
stitution and  the  Portsmouth  Light.  On  the  1.  Fort  McClary  is  seen,  on 
Kittery  Point,  and  the  Whale’s  Back  Lighthouse  is  passed,  with  Frost’s 
and  Odiorne’s  Points  on  the  r.  As  the  steamer  gains  the  open  sea,  the 
coast  of  Maine  is  seen  on  the  N.  W.,  trending  away  beyond  Mt.  Again en- 
ticus.  The  Isles  are  now  rapidly  approached.  The  * Ajojoledore  House 
is  a great  hotel  on  Appledore  Island,  accommodating  500  guests,  at  $ 3.00 
a day.  An  immense  new  hotel  (the  Oceanic , with  275  rooms)  will  be 
opened  in  the  summer  of  1873,  on  Star  Island,  the  former  site  of  the  vil- 
12 


266  Route  37. 


YOLK. 


lage  of  Gosport.  Several  family  cottages  will  be  attached  to  the  hotel, 
and  leased  by  the  season.  On  Star  Island  is  a small  cavern,  where 
a woman  once  hid  in  a rocky  recess  while  the  Indians  massacred  the 
people  of  the  settlement.  It  is  said  that  she  killed  her  two  children  to 
prevent  them  from  discovering  her  to  the  Indians  by  their  cries.  Another 
point  on  the  rocky  shore  was  the  favorite  resort  of  a lady  school-teacher, 
who  wTas  wont  to  read  there,  until  Sept.  11,  1848,  when  a huge  wave 
vrashed  her  away,  to  be  seen  no  more.  Fine  trap-dikes  are  found  on  this 
island.  1 M.  S.  W.  is  White  Island , with  a powerful  revolving  light,  87 
ft.  above  the  water,  and  visible  15  M.  away.  Haley’s  (or  Smutty  Nose) 
Island  is  between  Appledore  and  Star,  and  has  the  graves  of  16  of  the 
crew  of  the  Spanish  ship  “ Sagunto,”  which  was  lost  here  (in  1813)  with 
all  on  board.  Duck  Island  is  2 M.  N.  E.  of  Appledore,  and  is  a rugged 
and  dangerous  mass  of  rock.  Fine  fishing  may  be  enjoyed  from  boats 
about  the  islands,  and  yachts  may  be  engaged  at  the  hotels. 

The  Isles  of  Shoals  were  discovered  by  Champlain  in  1605,  and  were  visited  by 
Argali  in  1613,  and  by  Smith  in  1614.  The  last-named  mariner  named  them 
Smith’s  Isles,  but  the  jiresent  name  was  early  adopted,  and  in  1623  “ the  Isles  of 
Shoulds  ” are  spoken  of  (derived  probably  from  the  shoaling  or  “schooling”  of 
the  fish  around  the  islands). 

The  present  Appledore  Island  was  soon  colonized,  and  in  1640  had  a considerable 
village  of  fishermen,  with  a church  and  court-house.  In  1661,  it  had  40  families, 
and  in  1670  the  people  removed  to  Star  Island  for  fear  of  the  Indians,  who  never- 
theless destroyed  the  colony  in  1675.  In  1647,  “ The  humble  petition  of  Richard 
Cutts  and  John  Cutting  ; Sheweth  — That  contrary  to  an  order  or  act  of  Court, 
which  says  that  no  woman  shall  live  on  the  Isles  of  Shoals,  John  Reynolds  hath 
brought  his  wife  hither,  also  pigs  and  goats.”  The  latter  were  removed  by  order 
of  the  Court,  but  the  woman  remained.  Star  Island  was  fortified,  and  an  exten- 
sive fishing-business  arose.  The  fish  caught  and  cured  by  the  islanders  were  sent 
mostly  to  Spain  and  to  the  West  Indies,  and  by  1770,  the  town  had  over  500  in- 
habitants. In  1870,  the  population  had  dwindled  to  94,  and  in  1872,  Star  Island 
was  purchased  and  depopulated  for  the  erection  of  a large  hotel.  Star,  Londoner’s, 
and  White  Island  belong  to  New  Hampshire,  and  the  others  pertain  to  Maine.  On 
the  night  of  March  5th,  1873,  a fearful  tragedy  took  place  on  Haley’s  Island 
(Smutty  Nose).  The  men  of  the  family  residing  there  were  in  Portsmouth,  and 
one  Wagner  (a  Prussian)  landed  and  murdered  2 of  the  3 women  then  on  the 
island.  The  third  escaped  in  the  darkness  and  hid  among  the  rocks  and  snow. 

York  village  is  9 M.  N.  E.  of  Portsmouth  (daily  stage  ; steamers  run 
from  Portsmouth  to  the  Marshall  House).  It  is  a quiet  and  pleasant  old 
maritime  hamlet,  with  several  ancient  houses,  and  a slender-spired  church 
which  wTas  built  in  1748.  4 M.  N.  are  two  quaint  old  garrison-houses,  — 

Mclnt ire’s  and  Junkin’s,  while  the  clayey  valley  of  York  River,  being 
fertilized  with  sea-wTeed,  has  some  fine  farms,  which  are  noted  for  their 
apples  and  cider.  On  a promontory  between  York  Harbor  and  the  ocean 
is  the  * Marshall  House , a hotel  accommodating  200  guests,  with  fine 
fishing  in  the  vicinity.  1J  M.  from  the  village  is  York  Beach,  one  of  the 
best  in  New  England,  about  1J  M.  long  and  formed  of  gently  sloping,  hard, 
gray  sand.  The  Sea  Foam  Cottage  is  a new  hotel,  accommodating  about 
100  guests,  and  there  are  2 or  3 boarding-houses  near  the  beach.  At  its 


BALD  HEAD  CLIFF. 


Iioute  37.  2G7 


N.  end  Cape  Neddick  runs  out  into  the  sea,  with  a curious  rocky  islet 
called  “The  Nubble,”  off  its  point  and  separated  from  it  by  a deep,  nar- 
row, and  tide-swept  channel.  The  Bowden  House  is  on  the  Cape,  and  is 
a favorite  resort  for  gunners,  while  just  beyond  is  the  village  of  Cape 
Neddick  (small  tavern). 

6-7  M.  from  York  Beach  (by  a bad  road  through  Cape  Neddick) 
is  Mt.  Agamenticus,  a lofty  hill  whence  line  views  of  the  ocean  and  of 
the  White  Mts.  may  be  obtained.  About  5 M.  N.  from  the  beach  is 
* Bald  Head  Cliff,  a remarkable  rocky  promontory,  “second  only  to  the 
Giant’s  Causeway  in  wild  and  majestic  grandeur.”  The  highly  inclined 
strata  of  the  ledges  show  long  and  regular  stripes  of  vivid  and  variegated 
colors,  while  the  action  of  storms  and  rolling  surf  has  broken  the  cliff 
into  curious  shapes.  The  view  from  the  Pulpit  when  a heavy  sea  is  roll- 
ing is  awe-inspiring,  with  such  force  do  the  great  surges  break  on  the 
rocks  below.  On  its  S.  \V.  side  the  cliff  falls  sheer  for  85  ft.,  to  the 
water.  Some  years  since,  a new  barque  from  Kennebunkport,  being 
lightly  ballasted,  was  driven  in  on  Bald  Head  Cliff,  and  lost,  with  its  crew 
of  14  men.  Boone  Island  is  seen  off  shore,  with  its  lighthouse,  133  ft. 
above  the  sea.  The  Nottingham  Galley,  10  guns,  was  wrecked  on  this 
island  in  1710,  and  a horrid  cannibalism  sustained  the  life  of  the  few  men 
who  were  saved.  The  long  Ogunquit  Beach  stretches  from  Bald  Head 
Cliff  to  Wells. 

York  was  settled  about  1624,  and  in  1642  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  established 
here  the  city  of  Gorgeana,  with  a full  municipal  government,  and  semi-yearly 
fairs,  — to  occur  at  the  feasts  of  SS.  James  and  Paul.  Gorges  was  Lord  Palatine 
of  Maine,  and  vainly  tried  to  establish  a feudal  system  here.  The  death  of  Gorges 
and  the  rise  of  the  English  republic  made  it  easy  for  Massachusetts  to  take  pos- 
session of  Gorgeana  City  in  1652,  and  10  years  later  the  province  took  away  the 
city  charter,  and  named  the  town  York.  It  was  then  the  chief  place  in  Maine, 
and  received  a large  addition  to  its  population  by  the  arrival  of  a detachment  of 
exiled  Scotchmen  who  had  been  captured  by  Cromwell  at  the  battle  of  Dunbar. 
The  Indians  made  frequent  attacks  on  York,  and  in  1676  they  destroyed  Cape 
Neddick  village  and  its  people.  Feb.  5,  1692,  the  town  was  attacked  at  dawn  by 
300  Indians  and  Frenchmen,  who  had  marched  from  Canada  on  snow-shoes. 
Many  of  the  villagers  gained  refuge  in  the  garrison-houses,  which  were  success- 
fully defended  while  the  remainder  of  the  settlement  was  destroyed.  After  a 
bloody  slaughter  in  the  streets  the  assailants  retired,  leading  100  prisoners  with 
them  to  Canada,  after  killing  75  of  the  people  of  York.  Henceforth  until  1744, 
the  settlers  kept  guarded  as  if  in  a state  of  siege,  and  throughout  Queen  Anne’s 
War  (1702-1712),  spy-boats  patrolled  the  coast  between  Cape  Neddick  and  Boar’s 
Head.  3 companies  from  York  went  to  the  Louisburg  campaigns,  and  on  the 
morning  after  the  battle  of  Lexington,  60  men  marched  thence  to  Cambridge. 
The  town  has  retrograded  during  the  past  century,  and  has  now  a farming  popu- 
lation of  2,654  persons. 

Portsmouth  to  Concord. 

Distance,  59  M.  ; fare,  $1.60  ; time,  2^-3  hrs.  The  Concord  trains  leave  their 
station  near  that  of  the  Eastern  Railroad,  and  pass  out  to  the  S.  W.,  soon  reach- 
ing the  shore  of  Great  Bay.  Stations,  Greenland  and  Stratham,  a large  fruit- 
producing  town.  From  Stratham  Hill  a pretty  view  is  afforded  toward  the 
White  Mts.  At  Newmarket  Junction,  the  line  connects  with  the  Boston  and 
Maine  Railroad  (Route  38).  The  train  then  passes  through  the  farming  towns  of 


268  Route  37. 


WELLS. 


Epping,  Raymond,  Candia,  and  Auburn,  to  Manchester.  From  Manchester  to 
Concord,  see  Route  29. 

Beyond  Portsmouth  the  train  crosses  the  Piscataqua  River,  affording  a 
pleasant  view  (to  the  r.)  of  the  ancient  city,  and  of  the  distant  Navy 
Yard.  Stations,'  Kittery  (3  M.  from  Kittery  Point),  Elliot  (a  pretty 
farming-town),  and  Conway  Junction,  where  trains  diverge  to  N.  Con- 
way and  the  White  Mts.,  71  M.  distant  (see  Route  31.).  3 M.  beyond 
Conway  Junction  is  S.  Berwick  Junction , where  the  Boston  and  Maine 
Railroad  (Route  38)  crosses  the  present  route.  S.  Berwick  village  is  2 M. 
distant,  and  has  considerable  manufactures.  Stations,  N.  Berwick  and 
Wells. 

Wells  was  founded  in  1643  by  Rev.  John  Wheelwright,  who  had  been  banished 
from  Mass,  for  heresy.  In  1676  the  settlement  was  vainly  attacked  by  Mogg 
Megone,  and  in  1692  a furious  assault  was  made  by  500  men,  led  by  French  offi- 
cers. After  a 48  hours'  siege,  the  enemy,  led  by  M.  Burniffe,  Gen.  Labocre,  and 
the  Tarratine  chiefs  Madockawando  and  Egeremet,  attempted  to  storm  the  fort, 
but  were  disastrously  repulsed  by  the  artillery  and  musketry  of  Capt.  Converse’s 
garrison.  In  1703,  39  of  the  people  of  Wells  were  killed  or  captured. 

Wells  Village  ( Ocean  House,  60 -75  guests,  $10-12.00  a week)  is 
about  4 M.  S.  E.  of  the  station,  and  is  finely  situated  on  a high  ridge 
overlooking  the  ocean.  The  houses  are  built  along  the  old  northern  post- 
road, and  are  separated  from  the  beach  by  Wells  River.  1J  M.  from  the 
village  (good  road)  is  Wells  Beach  ( Island  Ledge  House,  $ 3.00  a day; 
Atlantic  House,  100  rooms,  $12-20.00  a week),  a sandy  strand,  with 
rocky  ledges  off  shore,  furnishing  good  bathing  and  hunting.  The  view 
from  the  Atlantic  House  is  grand,  embracing  Boone  Island,  Ogunquit 
Beach,  and  the  trend  of  the  coast  from  Bald  Head  Cliff  to  Cape  Porpoise. 
A short  distance  S.  of  Wells  is  the  ancient  village  of  Ogunquit,  with  Bald 
Head  Cliff  beyond,  while  4 - 5 M.  N.  is  Kennebunk. 

Stages  run  daily  in  summer  from  the  station  to  the  beach.  The  Boston  and 
Maine  R,  R.  has  now  a station  within  1 M.  of  the  Atlantic  House. 

Station,  Kennebunk  (restaurant),  3 M.  from  the  village  {Mousam 
House),  which  has  several  factories  and  shipyards,  with  4 churches. 
3 - 5 M.  beyond  are  the  maritime  villages  of  Kennebunkport  and  Cape 
Porpoise.  Large  granite  breakwaters  are  built  out  on  each  side  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Kennebunk  River,  from  which  a beach  runs  W.  2-3  M.  to 
the  Mousam  River.  There  are  several  small  boarding-houses  here  ( Sea 
View,  Beach,  and  Fairview  Houses).  Near  Cape  Porpoise  village  ( Goose 
Rocks  House)  is  a group  of  small  islands  sheltering  a good  harbor. 

This  locality  was  first  visited  in  1602,  and  settled  in  1629.  In  1690  the  provin- 
cial garrison  on  Stage  Island  was  removed,  and  the  Indians  soon  attacked  the 
settlement,  upon  which  the  people  withdrew  to  the  fort.  Alter  a long  siege  by 
the  Indians,  a crippled  man  from  the  fort  escaped  by  night  in  a leaky  canoe  to 
Portsmouth,  whence  aid  was  sent,  and  the  people  were  taken  off.  The  place  was 
deserted  for  9 years,  and  3 vears  after  its  resettlement  (1702)  it  was  utterly  de- 
stroyed by  500  Indians.  In  1713  the  town  was  again  occupied,  and  in  1717  it  was 


BIDDEF011D. 


Route  37.  209 


incorporated  by  the  Mass.  Legislature,  with  the  name  of  Arundel.  After  bearing 
this  name  for  104  years,  the  town  discarded  it  for  its  present  name. 

Beyond  Kennebunk  the  train  reaches  Biddeford,  a city  of  over  10,000 
inhabitants,  with  4 banks  (2  of  deposit),  2 weekly  papers,  and  9 churches. 
Opposite  Biddeford,  and  across  the  Saco  Biver,  is  the  city  of  Saco  (Saco 
House),  with  5,757  inhabitants,  4 banks  (2  of  deposit),  and  a weekly 
paper.  The  river  has  55  ft.  of  falls  between  the  cities,  furnishing  a fine 
water-power,  which  is  utilized  by  the  York,  Pepperell,  and  Laconia  cot- 
ton factories,  running  175,000  spindles,  with  about  $ 3,000,000  capital, 
and  employing  over  3,000  operatives.  Several  hundred  men  are  engaged 
in  large  machine  shops,  while  great  numbers  are  in  the  lumber-mills. 

This  district  was  first  visited  by  De  Monts  in  1605,  and  Vines  wintered  here  in 
1617-18.  Permanent  settlements  were  made  about  1630,  and  in  1675  the  Sokokis 
Indians  were  repulsed  with  severe  loss  from  the  fort  at  the  falls.  In  1703,  this  fort 
was  taken  by  another  attack,  led  by  French  officers,  and  in  1708  Fort  Mary  was 
built.  Biddeford  was  bought  for  £90  by  Wm.  Phillips,  of  Boston,  and  in  1718 
received  its  separate  incorporation,  and  was  named  for  an  English  city  whence 
came  several  of  its  settlers.  It  became  a city  in  1855.  Saco  was  incorporated  as 
Pepperellborough  in  1762,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the  knight  who  owned  its 
territory.  It  was  called  Saco  in  ] 805,  and  became  a city  in  1867.  The  celebrated 
Saco  River  regiment  (5th  Maine)  was  raised  hereabouts  in  1861,  and  served  through 
the  Secession  War,  being  most  distinguished  for  its  brilliant  bayonet-charge  at 
Rappahannock  Station,  where  it  took  hundreds  of  prisoners  and  the  flags  of  the 
8th  Louisiana,  and  6th,  7th,  and  54th  North  Carolina  regiments. 

Saco  Pool  is  about  9 M.  from  the  station  (7  M.  for  pedestrians,  by 
Fort  Hill  and  the  ferry).  The  steamer  “ Augusta  ” runs  twice  daily  from 
the  pier  below  the  falls,  down  the  beautiful  river  to  the  Pool,  touching  at 
the  Ferry  House,  a summer-hotel  on  the  1.  bank  near  the  sea. 

The  * Yates  House  (200  guests,  $2.50  a day,  $12-20,00  a week)  is  at 
the  Pool,  together  with  several  large  boarding-houses  ( Hussey's  Ocean 
House,  Holman's  Highland  House,  &c. ).  The  village  is  on  a peninsula 
opposite  the  hill  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  Mary  (built  in  1708). 
Near  by  is  a quaint  old  house  of  the  17th  century.  The  Pool  is  a broad 
and  muddy-bottomed  cove,  which  is  very  nearly  land-locked,  and  is  filled 
by  each  tide.  There  was  formerly  a popular  belief  that  whosoever  en- 
tered the  Pool  on  the  22d  of  June  would  be  cured  of  all  disease.  On  the 
ocean-front  near  the  hotels  is  a fine,  sandy  beach  with  good  facilities  for 
surf-bathing  (rent  of  bathing-houses,  $1.00  a week),  while  a resounding 
rocky  shore  stretches  around  toward  the  harbor.  N.  E.  of  the  Pool  is 
Stage  Island,  where  a British  frigate  destroyed  5 vessels  in  1814,  and 
Wood  Island,  with  a powerful  revolving  red  light.  Sojourners  here  often 
cross  Saco  Bay  in  small  boats  (in  calm  weather),  to  Old  Orchard  Beach, 
which  is  plainly  visible. 

The  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  (Route  38)  crosses  the  present  route  at  Bidde- 
ford, and  tourists  who  wish  to  visit  the  Pool  will  find  that  route  equally  near. 

After  leaving  Biddeford,  the  train  crosses  the  Saco  River  and  passes  on 
to  Saco  station,  with  fine  views  of  the  sister  cities  on  the  r.  5 M.  farther 


270  Route  37.  PORTLAND  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS. 


on  is  W.  Scarborough  station,  whence  stages  run  in  3 M.  to  Scarborough 
Beach  (Atlantic  House,  50  - 60  guests  ; Kirkwood  House,  somewhat 
larger  ; both  good  houses ; also  several  inexpensive  boarding-houses). 
The  beach  is  2-3  M.  long,  hard,  level,  and  safe  for  bathing,  while  the 
fishing  offshore  is  very  good.  A fine  piece  of  forest  near  the  Atlantic 
House  furnishes  pleasant  walks.  Prout’s  or  Libby’s  Neck  (with  two 
large  summer  boarding-houses)  projects  into  the  ocean  from  the  S.  end  of 
the  beach,  while  on  the  N.  is  Richmond’s  Island,  off  the  mouth  of  Spur- 
wink  River,  and  Cape  Elizabeth  with  its  large  hotels. 

This  town  was  settled  about  1630,  and  in  1658  submitted  to  Mass,  and  adopted 
the  English  name,  Scarborough,  in  place  of  its  Indian  name,  Owascoag  (“a  place 
of  much  grass”).  In  King  Philip’s  War  it  was  defended  by  troops  of  Mass, 
against  several  Indian  attacks,  over  200  men  being  in  garrison  here.  The  troops 
were  called  away  in  1676,  and  the  enemy  destroyed  the  town,  and  in  1677  240 
Mass,  soldiers  were  landed  here.  They  were  fiercely  attacked,  and  defeated  with 
the  loss  of  60  men  and  their  commander,  Capt.  Swett.  In  1681  a large  fort  (parts 
of  which  still  remain)  was  built  at  Black  Point,  but  the  town  was  abandoned 
between  1690  and  1702.  In  1703,  the  fort  was  attacked  by  500  men  under  M. 
Beaubarin,  but  was  defended  by  a brave  little  band  from  Lynn,  while  heavy  rains 
caused  the  hostile  mines  to  fall  in.  After  over  100  English  lives  had  been  sacri- 
fied  by  the  Indians,  Scarborough  became  firmly  established,  and  in  1791  was  as 
populous  as  Portland  (2,235  inhabitants).  The  exodus  from  Maine  has  greatly 
weakened  this  town,  which  in  1870  had  a population  smaller  by  544  souls  than 
that  of  1791. 

6 M.  beyond  W.  Scarborough  (passing  Scarborough  and  Cape  Elizabeth 
stations)  the  train  crosses  Fore  River,  and  stops  at  Portland. 

Portland  and  its  Environs. 

Arrival.  The  Boston  station  is  about  1 M.  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  a 
carriage  should  be  taken,  as  the  district  to  be  traversed  is  unattractive. 

Hotels.  * Falmouth  House,  a fine  structure  on  Middle  St.,  $3.50  a day; 
Preble  House  ; United  States  Hotel.  The  *St.  Julian  is  near  the  Falmouth,  and 
is  one  of  the  best  European-plan  hotels,  — rooms,  $ 1.00  a day,  meals  a la  carte. 

Horse-Cars  on  Congress  St.  from  Vaughan  St.  to  the  Observatory  every  15 
minutes  ; from  the  Preble  House,  by  Preble,  Portland,  and  Green  Sts.,  to  Wood- 
ford’s Corner  (Westbrook)  ; from  Congress,  by  Spring,  to  Emery  St. 

Reading-rooms.  The  Y.  M.  C.  Association,  corner  of  Congress  and  Casco 
Sts.  ; the  Portland  Institute,  in  the  City  Hall,  open  10-1,  2-6,  7-9  o’clock  ; the 
Athenaeum,  on  Plum  St. 

Railroads.  The  Eastern  R.  R.,  to  Portsmouth  and  Boston  (Route  37)  ; the 
Boston  and  Maine  R.  R.,  to  Lawrence  and  Boston  (Route  38)  ; Maine  Central 
(Portland  and  Kennebec)  R.  R.,  to  Augusta  and  Bangor  (Route  47) ; Maine  Cen- 
tral (Lewiston  Division)  to  Lewiston  and  Bangor  (Route  46) ; Portland  and  Og~ 
densburg  R.  R.,  to  N.  Conway  and  Upper  Bartlett  (Route  39) ; cars  of  the  Knox 
and  Lincoln  R.  R.,  for  Rockland  (Route  44) ; Portland  and  Rochester  R.  R.  ; 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  (Route  40). 

Steamsliips.  The  Allan  Mail  Line  runs  between  Portland  and  Liverpool 
from  November  to  May,  and  from  May  to  November  between  Quebec  and  Liver- 
pool. Cabin-fares,  $65-80.00  ; third-class,  $30.00.  Vessels  of  the  International 
Steamship  Co.  run  thrice  weekly  (Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  at  5 P.  M.) 
to  Eastport  and  St.  John,  connecting  with  steamers  for  Annapolis  and  Halifax. 
Portland  to  St.  John,  $5.00.  A weekly  steamer  leaves  for  Halifax  direct;  fare, 
$8.00.  Semi-weekly  steamers  leave  Brown’s  Wharf  for  New  York;  fare  (includ- 
ing state-room),  $5.00.  Daily  steamers  leave  Atlantic  Wharf  at  7 P.  M,  for  Bos- 
ton ; fare,  $1.50  (with  state-room,  $2.00).  Tri- weekly  steamers  leave  for  the 
Kennebec  River,  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  at  7 A.  M. ; fa»’e  to  Au- 


PORTLAND. 


Route  37.  271 


gusta,  $1.50.  Tri-weekly  steamers  also  for  the  Penobscot  River,  stopping  at  the 
river-ports  from  Rockland  to  Bangor.  The  steamer  “ Lewiston  ” leaves  Railroad 
Wharf  semi-weekly  for  Mt.  Desert  and  Machias  (see  Route  45).  Smaller  boats 
run  semi-weekly  to  Boothbay,  Pemaquid,  Waldoboro,  and  Damariscotta  (see  Route 
44) ; and  several  times  daily  to  Peak’s  and  Cushing’s  Islands.  Excursion  steam- 
ers frequently  ascend  Casco  Bay  to  Harpswell. 

Portland  was  settled  in  1632,  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Machigonne,  and  was 
named  Casco  Neck  until  it  passed  under  the  Mass,  government  in  1658,  when  it 
received  the  name  of  Falmouth,  In  1676,  the  settlement  was  destroyed  by  the 
Indians,  and  35  of  its  people  were  killed  and  captured.  The  desolated  village 
was  repopulated  in  1678,  and  received  an  accession  of  Huguenot  immigrants 
from  La  Rochelle,  but  the  Indians  soon  rose  again,  and  in  1689  killed  14  of  the 
town-guard  on  Munjoy’s  Hill.  In  the  same  year,  the  town  was  menaced  by  a 
large  hostile  force,  but  was  delivered  by  the  opportune  arrival  of  Major  Church,  a 
skilful  partisan  officer,  with  troops  from  the  Plymouth  Colony.  Church  marched 
out  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Deering  estate,  and  boldly  engaged  the  enemy,  who  was 
put  to  flight  after  a sharp  skirmish  in  which  the  Plymouth  men  lost  11  killed  and 
many  wounded.  After  Church  had  left  the  town  (1690),  the  three  main  defences 
were  attacked  by  500  Frenchmen  and  Indians.  One  of  them  was  evacuated  and 
another  was  stormed.  Fort  Loyall,  the  largest  fort  on  the  coast  (then  on  the 
present  site  of  the  Grand  Trunk  station),  was  fairly  garrisoned  and  mounted  8 
cannon.  Having  destroyed  the  village  and  most  of  its  inhabitants,  the  fort  was 
besieged  for  5 days,  and  mined  under  the  direction  of  the  French  officers.  Ere 
the  mine  was  sprung  the  fort  surrendered,  and  the  survivors  of  its  garrison  were 
taken  to  Quebec.  Scores  of  the  people  were  killed,  and  100  were  made  prisoners. 
In  1703  the  neighboring  villages  of  Spurwink  and  Purpooduck  were  destroyed, 
and  55  people  killed  or  captured.  After  the  Peace  of  Utrecht,  in  1713,  the  place 
was  again  occupied  and  grew  slowly,  the  population  of  720  souls  in  1753  having 
increased  to  2.000  by  1764.  October  18,  1775,  this  prosperous  town  was  bom- 
barded by  4 British  war-vessels  (the  Canseau,  Cat,  and  others,  under  command  of 
Capt.  Mowatt,  who  had  previously  suffered  some  indignities  here).  Detachments 
of  marines  were  landed,  and  between  their  incendiary  labors  and  nine  hours  of 
cannonading  from  the  fleet,  414  buildings  were  utterly  destroyed,  leaving  but  100 
standing.  The  rebuilding  of  Falmouth  was  commenced  in  1783  ; in  1785,  the 
“ Falmouth  Gazette ” was  started,  “to advocate  the  independence  of  Maine  ” (then 
under  the  Mass,  government) ; and  in  1786  a town  was  incorporated  here,  with 
2,000  inhabitants,  under  the  name  of  Portland.  In  1832  it  became  a city  (popula- 
tion 13,000),  and  soon  afterwards  began  the  construction  of  great  railway  lines  to 
the  back  country.  An  extensive  foreign  trade  sprang  up,  principally  with  the 
West  Indies,  and  the  city  grew  rapidly  in  wealth  and  importance.  On  the  night 
of  July  4th,  1866,  a disastrous  lire  swept  away  one  half  of  the  compact  part  of  the 
city,  causing  a loss  of  $ 10,000,000.  Portions  of  the  burnt  district  are  still  en- 
cumbered with  ruins,  but  by  far  the  greater  part  has  been  covered  with  new  and 
elegant  commercial  buildings.  Not  satisfied  with  its  connection  with  the  West 
by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  Portland  has  contributed  largely  to  the  construc- 
tion of  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  to  secure  part  of  the  Western 
grain  carriage,  while  a third  grand  route,  called  the  Portland,  Rutland,  Oswego, 
and  Chicago  Railroad,  has  long  been  in  contemplation. 

Portland,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Maine  (with  31,408  inhabitants 
and  a valuation  of  $30,000,000),  is  situated  on  a high  peninsula  in  the 
S.  W.  end  of  Casco  Bay.  Its  harbor  is  deep  and  well  sheltered,  and 
defended  by  three  powerful  forts,  while  several  large  islands  beyond  afford 
favorite  resorts  in  the  summer  season.  The  peninsula  on  which  the  city 
is  built  is  3 M.  long,  and  at  the  centre  is  little  over  J M.  wide.  It  is 
bounded  by  Portland  Harbor  and  Fore  River  on  the  S.  and  W.,  and  by 
Back  Cove  on  the  N.  Bramhall’s  Hill,  on  the  W.  of  the  peninsula,  is 
175  ft.  high;  Munjoy’s  Hill,  on  the  E.,  is  161  ft.  ; and  the  central  part 
of  the  city  is  57  ft.  above  the  water.  The  Western  Promenade  looks  down 


272  Route  37. 


TORTLAND. 


on  the  rural  environs  from  Bramhall’s  Hill,  and  from  this  point  Congress 
St.  runs  down  the  length  of  the  peninsula  to  the  Eastern  Promenade  on 
Mun joy’s  Hill,  from  which  fine  views  of  the  bay  and  islands  may  be  ob- 
tained. Each  of  these  promenades  is  150  ft.  wide,  divided  into  sections, 
and  planted  with  lines  of  trees. 

The  City  Hall  is  a large  and  imposing  building  of  light  Nova  Scotia 
stone,  surmounted  by  a singular  dome.  Passing  from  this  point  up 
Congress  St.,  with  Lincoln  Park  on  the  r.,  the  Roman  Catholic  Bishop’s 
Palace  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  the  large  Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Con- 
ception. Beyond  St.  Luke’s  Church  (Epis.)  on  the  1.,  a large  building 
occupied  by  a graded  city  school  is  passed,  and  alongside  of  it  the  old 
Eastern  Cemetery  is  seen. 

Among  those  who  are  buried  here  are  Commodore  Preble  and  Captains  Bur- 
roughs and  Blythe.  Edward  Preble  was  born  at  Portland  in  1761,  and  was  an 
officer  in  the  American  Navy  during  the  Revolution.  He  commanded  the  squad- 
ron which  sailed  to  Tripoli  in  1803,  and  humbled  its  piratical  people  by  several 
bombardments  of  the  city,  at  the  same  time  averting  the  dangers  of  a war  between 
the  Emperor  of  Morocco  and  the  United  States.  Burroughs  and  Blythe  com- 
manded respectively  the  American  war- vessel,  the  “ Enterprise,”  and  the  British 
brig,  the  “ Boxer,”  which  fought  off  Pemaquid  in  1813.  After  a sharp  action  of 
48  minutes,  in  which  both  captains  were  killed,  the  “ Boxer  ” surrendered  and  was 
taken  into  Portland. 

Just  beyond  the  cemetery  is  the  observatory  on  Munjoy’s  Hill,  which 
should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  its  extensive  * view  (small  fee  to  the 
keeper).  To  the  S.  W.,  on  the  heights  beyond  Fore  River,  is  the  fine 
castellated  building  of  the  State  Reform  School , with  the  plains  of  Scar- 
borough and  Saco  beyond,  and  far  down  the  coast  is  the  blue  cone  of  Mt. 
Agamenticus.  Portland  and  its  inner  harbor  lie  to  the  S.  and  W.,  with 
Bramhall’s  Hill  at  the  further  end  of  the  ridge.  To  the  N.  W.  is  the 
village  of  Gorham  (Maine),  over  Back  Cove  and  Deering’s  Oaks,  and  far 
beyond,  80  M.  distant,  the  White»Mts.  may  be  seen  in  clear  weather.  N. 
E.  are  the  numerous  verdant  islands  in  the  blue  waters  of  Casco  Bay,  with 
the  bending  shores  of  Falmouth  and  Cumberland.  The  lighthouse  on 
Seguin  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec,  25  M.  distant,  is  easily 
seen  by  the  aid  of  the  telescope  suspended  from  the  roof,  while  on  the 
E.  is  the  outer  harbor,  with  Peak’s  and  Cushing’s  Islands,  and  the  mas- 
sive fortifications.  S.  E.  is  Cape  Elizabeth,  with  its  summer  hotels,  and 
the  Twin  Sisters  (Portland  lighthouses).  A short  distance  beyond  the 
Observatory  is  the  Eastern  Promenade.  The  Marine  Hospital,  which 
may  be  seen  from  this  point,  is  a fine  building  fronting  on  the  Bay  at 
Martin’s  Point. 

The  U.  S.  Custom  House  is  an  elegant  granite  building  in  the  peculiar 
style  which  has  been  introduced  by  the  architects  of  the  present  Adminis- 
tration. The  inner  hall,  with  its  elaborate  marble  ornamentation,  is 
worthy  of  a visit.  A short  distance  N.  E.  of  the  Custom  House  are  the 


ENVIRONS  OF  PORTLAND.  Route  37.  2 73 

piers  of  the  New  York,  Boston,  and  Liverpool  lines  of  steamers,  and  the 
extensive  terminal  station  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

The  * Post  Office  is  a beautiful  structure  of  white  Vermont  marble,  built 
in  the  mediaeval  Italian  architecture,  with  an  elegant  upper  portico  sup- 
ported by  Corinthian  columns.  Though  small,  this  is  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  pleasing  of  the  national  buildings  in  Ifew  England.  In  this 
vicinity  are  the  stately  buildings  of  the  City  Hall  and  the  Falmouth  Hotel, 
with  many  fine  commercial  buildings.  Beyond  the  Mechanics’  Hall  a 
succession  of  fine  residences  are  seen  stretching  up  the  slopes  of  Bram- 
hall’s  Hill,  on  streets  so  thickly  lined  with  shade-trees  as  to  have  given 
to  Portland  the  name  of  “ the  Forest  City.”  The  trees  in  the  central 
streets  were  destroyed  during  the  great  fire  of  1866. 

The  Society  of  Natural  History  has  good  collections  of  shells,  minerals, 
birds,  &c.  ; and  the  libraries  of  the  Athenaeum  and  Institute  are  often 
visited.  There  are  several  neat  stone  churches  in  the  city. 

The  commercial  facilities  of  Portland  have  been  greatly  increased  by  the  con- 
struction of  a marginal  railway  along  the  water-front  of  the  city,  with  side-tracks 
running  down  the  wharves.  The  chief  naval  visitor  since  1775  was  the  leviathan 
steamship  “Great  Eastern,”  which  is  ^ M.  long  and  weighs  22,500  tons,  yet  it 
found  ample  depth  of  water  here.  The  principal  trade  of  Portland  has  been  with 
Havana,  vast  amounts  of  shooks  and  sugar-barrels  having  been  sent  there,  and 
repaid  by  return  cargoes  of  sugar  and  molasses,  which  were  worked  over  in  large 
refineries  in  the  city.  Brown’s  sugar-house  is  the  lofty  building  with  many 
small  windows,  between  the  railroad  station  and  the  city.  It  was  rebuilt  within 
60  days  after  the  Great  Fire.  In  1870  there  were  received  at  Portland  nearly 
15,000  hogsheads  of  sugar  and  45,000  hogsheads  of  molasses. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  Lake  Sebago,  17  M.  distant,  which*  is  247 
ft.  above  tide-water,  and  is  said  to  have  the  purest  lake-water  in  the  world.  20 
M.  of  pipes  underlie  the  city  and  convey  the  water  to  all  its  parts.  There  are 
here  3 daily  papers,  7 weeklies,  and  3 monthlies. 

Evergreen  Cemetery  is  2\  M.  from  Portland  (by  stage  or  railway),  and  has 
pleasant  woodland  grounds  covering  55  acres.  There  is  a fine  Gothic  monument 
of  Caen  stone  over  the  remains  of  William  Pitt  Fessenden,  U.  S.  Senator  from 
1854  to  1869. 

Portland  was  the  birthplace  of  Henry  W.  Longfellow,  the  poet ; N.  P.  Willis, 
the  poet  and  traveller  ; Sara  P.  Parton  (Willis’s  sister),  who  wrote  popular  essays 
under  the  pseudonym  of  “ Fanny  Fern  ” ; Erastus  and  James  Brooks,  the  New 
York  journalists  and  politicians  ; Rear-Admiral  Alden,  who  was  distinguished  in 
the  naval  battles  at  Vera  Cruz,  New  Orleans,  and  Mobile ; Commodore  Preble, 
who  commanded  in  the  Tripolitan  War;  Capt.  G.  H.  Preble,  who  fought  in  the 
Mexican  and  Secession  wars  ; J ohn  Neal,  the  poet  and  novelist ; and  Neal  Dow, 
the  reformer. 


Environs  of  Portland. 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  S.  of  the  harbor,  and  stretches  its  rugged  cliffs  into 
the  ocean.  The  drives  over  this  surf-beaten  promontory  are  very  pleasant 
during  the  summer,  and  extend  to  the  Twin  Sisters  lighthouses,  at  the 
end  of  the  cape,  9 M.  from  the  city.  The  Cape  Cottage  is  3 M.  from 
Portland,  and  is  a large  and  picturesque  hotel,  built  of  stone,  and  accom- 
modating 100  guests  (frequent  stages  to  the  city).  The  scenery  is  fine, 
embracing  the  shoreless  ocean  on  one  hand  and  the  entrance  to  the  harbor 
12*  E 


274  Route  37.  ENVIRONS  OF  PORTLAND. 


on  the  other.  5 M.  beyond  this  point  is  the  Ocean  House,  a large  hotel 
near  a hard,  sandy  beach,  with  good  facilities  for  surf-bathing.  10  M. 
from  Portland  is  the  Atlantic  House,  on  Scarborough  Beach.  The  Port- 
land Light  is  3J  M.  from  the  city,  on  a high  bluff  which  commands  broad 
sea-views.  A steam -ferry  runs  from  Custom  House  Wharf  to  Cape 
Elizabeth  village,  and  J M.  from  its  pier  is  Fort  Preble ra  small  but  strong 
work  on  a commanding  point.  To  the  N.  is  the  town  of  Cape  Elizabeth, 
and  2J  M.  from  Portland  is  the  fine  building  of  the  State  Reform  School. 

Steamers  run  several  times  daily  (in  summer)  to  the  islands  in  Casco 
Bay.  This  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  short  marine  excursions  on  the  coast, 
and  can  be  made  in  3 - 4 hours,  although  it  is  better  to  go  down  on  a fore- 
noon boat,  dine  at  the  Ottawa  House,  spend  the  afternoon  on  Cushing’s 
Island,  and  return  on  the  afternoon  boat. 

The  steamer  leaves  the  pier  and  passes  into  the  harbor,  with  Fort 
Preble  on  the  low  point  to  the  r.,  and  the  more  powerful  works  of  Forts 
Scammel  and  Gorges  on  islands  in  front.  Beautiful  retrospects  are  af- 
forded of  Portland,  rising  in  terraced  lines  along  its  hills.  Casco  Bay, 
over  a small  part  of  which  the  steamer  passes,  is  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque of  American  bays,  and  some  enthusiastic  persons  rank  it  next  to 
the  Italian  Bay  of  Naples.  It  is  popularly  supposed  to  contain  365 
islands  (like  Lake  Winnepesaukee),  and  its  green  archipelago  abounds  in 
good  fishing-places.  Boats  of  all  sizes,  with  experienced  captains,  may 
be  hired  in  Portland.  Diamond  Island , about  5 M.  from  the  city,  is  fre- 
quently visited  by  large  parties,  and  has  noble  groves  of  old  trees,  with  a 
bold,  rocky  shore  opening  occasionally  in  level  strips  of  beach.  Diamond, 
Pleasant,  and  Indian  Coves  are  beautiful  and  sequestered  inlets,  bordered 
with  beeches,  maples,  and  oaks.  Peak's  Island  is  4 M.  from  the  city, 
and  is  a popular  summer-resort  for  the  people  of  Cumberland  County. 
There  are  several  small  and  inexpensive  hotels  here  (Casco  House,  Union 
House,  and  others),  and  fine  views  of  the  city  with  its  harbor  and  de- 
fences, the  curving  coast  of  Cape  Elizabeth,  and  the  shoreless  ocean,  are 
enjoyed. 

* Cushing’s  Island  is  3-4  M.  from  the  city  (frequent  steamers),  and 
is  the  outermost  of  the  islands  in  this  direction,  facing  the  ocean.  The 
* Ottawa  House  is  the  only  one  on  the  island,  which  covers  250  acres,  and 
is  composed  of  high  bluffs.  This  hotel  is  a favorite  resort  for  Canadians, 
who  are  usually  in  the  majority  here.  The  building  is  of  brick,  and 
accommodates  150  guests,  at  $14-18.00  a week.  The  view  from  the 
cupola  of  the  Ottawa  House  (for  patrons  only)  is  beautiful,  including  on 
one  side  the  lovely  islets  of  Casco  Bay,  then  the  level-liorizoned  ocean, 
the  ship  channel,  and  the  bold  shores  of  Cape  Elizabeth.  But  the  view 
over  the  harbor  towards  and  including  Portland  is  the  most  pleasing. 
The  forts  are  seen  in  the  foreground,  Peak’s  Island  on  the  r. , and  in  the 


BOSTON  TO  PORTLAND. 


Route  38.  275 


remote  N.  W.,  if  the  day  is  clear,  the  White  Mts.  are  visible.  Sandy 
beaches  for  bathing,  and  rocks  projecting  in  deep  water,  for  fishing,  lie 
along  the  shore.  An  embowered  path  leads  along  the  ridge  to  the  npper 
end  of  the  island,  passing  through  a fine  cedar  forest.  The  walk  ends  on 
the  verge  of  a lofty  precipice  of  storm-beaten  rock  (called  White  Head), 
commanding  fine  views  of  the  ocean,  the  bay,  and  the  city. 

Steamers  run  occasionally  in  the  summer  up  the  length  of  Casco  Bay, 
to  Harpswell,  a quiet  old  peninsular  town  rendered  classic  by  Mrs. 
Stowe’s  romance,  “ The  Pearl  of  Orr’s  Island,”  and  by  Whittier’s  poem, 
“The  Dead  Ship  of  Harpswell.”  Portland  to  Bangor  and  St.  John,  see 
Route  47  and  49. 

38.  Boston  to  Portland. 

By  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad.  — Boston  to  Portland,  115  M,  ; fare  $3.00. 

After  leaving  the  terminal  station  on  Haymarket  Square,  Boston,  the 
line  crosses  the  Charles  River,  passes  over  Prison  Point,  in  Charlestown, 
stops  before  the  crossings  of  the  Fitchburg  and  the  Eastern  Railroads, 
and  reaches  Somerville  station.  On  Winter  Hill,  in  this  town,  the  cap- 
tive army  of  Burgoyne  was  cantoned  for  many  months.  The  city  of 
Somerville  was  named  in  honor  of  Richard  Somers,  a brave  naval  officer, 
who  was  killed  in  the  Tripolitan  War.  Leaving  Charlestown  Heights 
on  the  r.,  the  line  crosses  the  broad  Mystic  River,  and  stops  at  E. 
Medford,  whence  a branch  line  runs  to  Medford,  a busy  village  interested 
in  ship-building  and  other  profitable  industries.  Tufts  College,  a flourish- 
ing institution  under  the  care  of  the  Universalist  Church,  is  near  Medford, 
and  on  Ship  St.  is  a solid  and  low-windowed  brick  house  that  was  built 
by  Gov.  Cradock’s  men  in  1634. 

Station,  Malden  (Malden  House,  Pratt’s  Hotel),  the  old  “Mystic  Side,” 
and  now  an  important  manufacturing  village  near  the  clustering  hills 
which  were  likened  by  President  Dwight  to  “ the  sweeping  flourishes  of  a 
graceful  penman.” 

Adoniram  Judson,  the  apostle  of  Burmah,  was  born  at  Malden  in  1788. 
He  spent  40  years  in  and  near  Rangoon,  translated  the  Bible  and  other 
books  into  Burmese,  and  although  he  was  at  times  chained  and  impris- 
oned, he  succeeded  in  building  up  a powerful  church  with  thousands  of 
members. 

Stations,  Wyoming  and  Melrose,  pleasant  suburban  villages  of  recent 
origin.  Spot  Pond,  a favorite  summer-day’s  resort,  is  less  than  2 M.  W. 
of  Wyoming.  Stoneham  station  is  2 M.  E.  of  the  village  of  Stoneham 
(Central  House),  to  which  it  is  joined  by  a horse-railroad.  Stoneham  has 
22  shoe  factories,  and  does  a business  of  about  $ 3,000,000  a year.  The 
main  line  next  passes  Greenwood,  then  runs  along  Crystal  Lake  (on  the 


276  Route  38.  WAKEFIELD  TO  NEWBURYPORT. 


1.),  and  stops  at  V7akefield  Junction,  whence  a branch  line  diverges  to  the 
E.,  reaching  Salem  by  way  of  Lynnfield  and  Peabody. 

Wakefield  to  Newburyport. 

A branch  railroad  runs  from  Wakefield  Junction  to  Newburyport  in  30 
M.  Leaving  the  elegant  mansion  and  grounds  of  Cyrus  Wakefield,  and 
Wakefield  Hall,  his  princely  gift  to  the  town,  on  the  L,  and  the  extensive 
rattan- works  on  the  r.,  the  branch  line  soon  crosses  the  Saugus  River,  and 
enters  Essex  County.  Stations,  Lynnfield  Centre,  W.  Danvers  (where 
the  Salem  and  Lowell  Railroad  is  crossed),  and  Danvers.  The  latter  is  an 
ancient  town,  which  was  settled  before  the  middle  of  the  17th  century. 
The  witchcraft  delusion  arose  here  in  1692,  and  in  1774  a strong  British 
force  was  cantoned  on  Danvers  Plains,  in  order  to  overawe  Essex  County. 
The  town  is  now  dependent  on  large  shoe  manufactories,  with  carpet- 
works  and  a rolling-mill.  The  train  soon  crosses  the  Salem  and  Lawrence 
Railroad,  and  runs  N.  through  the  thinly  settled  towns  of  Central  Essex. 
Station,  Topsfield  (Topsfield  House),  settled  in  1639,  on  the  scanty  in- 
tervales along  the  Ipswich  River.  Boxford,  a sterile  town,  was  incor- 
porated in  1686,  and  has  two  box-factories.  Station,  Georgetown  (Pen- 
tucket  House),  a bright  and  busy  village  E.  of  the  railroad,  with  consid- 
erable manufactories  of  boots,  shoes,  and  carriages.  George  Peabody, 
the  eminent  philanthropist,  was  employed  in  this  town  in  his  younger 
days  (1812-13),  and  has  evinced  his  pleasant  memories  of  it  by  present- 
ing to  Georgetown  a fine  public  library  and  fund.  The  Memorial  Churcli 
is  a monument  of  his  filial  regard.  S.  W.  of  the  village  is  Bald  Pate,  the 
highest  hill  in  Essex. 

A branch  railroad  runs  N.  W.  from  Georgetown  through  the  towns  of 
Groveland  and  Bradford,  to  the  city  of  Haverhill  (7J  M.). 

The  train  crosses  the  town  of  Newbury,  and  in  9 M.  from  Georgetown 
reaches  Newburyport  (see  Route  37). 

Wakefield  was  settled  in  1639,  and  was  for  over  two  centuries  known  as 
S.  Reading.  In  1868  it  assumed  its  present  name  in  honor  of  a wealthy 
citizen  who  had  greatly  benefited  it.  Cyrus  Wakefield  introduced  the 
rattan-working  industry  into  this  country,  and  has  large  factories  here. 
His  fine  residence  is  seen  near  the  track.  The  town  has  i,135  inhabitants, 
and  possesses  several  shoe  factories. 

Passing  Lake  Quanapowitt  (on  the  r. ),  the  train  reaches  Reading , 
devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  shoes,  cabinet-ware,  organs,  &c.  Stations, 
Wilmington,  Wilmington  Junction  (where  the  Salem  and  Lowell  Railroad 
crosses  the  present  route),  Ballardvale  (with  factories  making  files,  Bris- 
tol polish,  and  flannels),  and  Andover  {Elm  House;  Mansion  House). 
This  ancient  academic  town  was  settled  about  1643,  on  the  Indian  domain 
of  Cochichewick,  which  was  bought  from  the  natives  for  $26.64  and  a 


ANDOVER. 


Route  38.  277 


coat.  Andover  has  some  active  manufactures,  hut  is  chiefly  famed  for  its 
schools.  The  Punchard  High  School  is  a local  institution  of  high  stand- 
ing. Phillips  Academy  occupies  a fine  building  on  the  hill,  and  is  of  wide 
reputation.  It  was  endowed  by  the  Phillips  family,  in  1778,  with  $ 85,000 
and  considerable  landed  estates,  and  has  since  occupied  a prominent  posi- 
tion. The  Abbot  Female  Seminary  is  an  old  and  famous  school  for  young 
ladies.  The  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Congregational  Church  was 
founded  about  1808,  and  soon  after  received  liberal  endowments  ($120,000 
from  Samuel  Abbot  and  $ 250,000  from  William  Bartlett).  This  insti- 
tution has  long  been  “ the  school  of  the  prophets  ” for  the  sect  to  which 
it  belongs,  and  has  prepared  its  ablest  divines  for  their  work.  Up  to  1871 
it  had  graduated  2,491  men,  and  in  1873  it  had  7 professors  and  81 
students.  It  is  under  the  Presidency  of  E.  A . Park,  D.  D. , a prominent 
divine,  who  is  also  the  editor  of  the  learned  quarterly,  the  Bibliotheca 
Sacra,  which  is  published  here.  Its  buildings  are  very  plain,  causing  the 
visitor  to  wonder  “if  orthodox  angels  have  not  lifted  up  old  Harvard  and 
Massachusetts  Halls,  and  carried  them  by  night  from  Cambridge  to 
Andover  Hill.”  But  the  situation  is  one  of  extreme  beauty,  and  the 
grounds  are  quiet  and  abounding  in  trees.  In  front  of  the  line  of  build- 
ings is  a long  walk  shaded  by  four  lines  of  trees,  near  whose  upper  end  is 
Brechin  Hall,  a handsome  building  of  local  stone,  which  contains  a library 
of  about  30,000  volumes,  and  a few  curiosities.  A copy  of  Eliot’s  Indian 
Bible,  a superb  copy  of  the  Codex  Sinaiticus,  and  various  trophies  from 
the  mission  fields  are  to  be  seen  here. 

John  and  Peter  Smith  came  to  Andover  from  Brechin,  in  Scotland,  many  years 
ago,  and  amassed  large  fortunes.  They  built  and  gave  Brechin  Hall  to  the 
Seminary,  and  erected  noble  schools  in  their  native  Brechin,  on  a hill  which  they 
caused  to  be  named  Andover  Hill. 

S.  of  the  grounds,  and  near  the  Mansion  House,  is  the  old  home  of 
Leonard  Woods,  D.  D.,  an  eminent  Calvinistic  theologian,  who  taught  in 
the  Seminary,  1808  - 46,  meanwhile  holding  controversies  with  the  Uni- 
tarians on  one  side,  the  Episcopalians  on  the  other,  and  the  Baptists  and 
Swedenborgians.  The  Printery  and  several  dormitory  buildings  are  on 
streets  near  by. 

Andover  was  so  named  because  its  first  settlers  came  from  Andover  in 
England.  It  supported  100  men  in  the  Continental  Army.  Elizabeth 
Stuart  Phelps,  authoress  of  “Sunny  Side,”  &c.,  and  her  daughter,  E.  S. 
Phelps,  authoress  of  “ Gates  Ajar,”  &c.,  were  born  here. 

There  are  pretty  ponds  in  Andover,  and  the  valley  of  the  Shawshine 
River  has  some  pleasant  rural  scenery,  while  the  view  from  Andover  Hill 
(at  sunset  especially)  is  highly  praised.  Many  summer  visitors  stay  here, 
partly  attracted  by  the  fine  society. 

After  leaving  Andover,  the  train  arrives  at  S.  Lawrence,  opposite  the 
city  of  Lawrence.  Some  of  the  through  trains  cross  the  river  and  enter 


278  Route  88. 


LAWRENCE. 


the  city,  while  others  do  not,  but  proceed  down  the  r.  bank  of  the  river  to 
Haverhill.  It  is  but  a few  minutes’  walk  over  the  Merrimac  River,  while 
from  the  bridge  the  traveller  gets  views  of  the  great  dam  (on  the  1.)  and  of 
the  long  line  of  factories  (on  the  r.  and  front). 

Lawrence. 

Hotels. — * Franklin  House,  a small  but  elegantly  appointed  hotel  opposite 
the  R.  R.  Station,  $2.50  a day  ; Lawrence  Hotel ; Essex  Hotel. 

This  city  was  founded  by  the  Essex  Company  in  1844,  and  contained, 
in  1845,  100,  and  in  1847,  3,000  inhabitants.  A powerful  stone  dam  was 
built  across  the  river,  giving  a fall  of  28  ft.  and  a water-power  equal  to 

10.000  horse-power.  A canal  1 M.  long  carries  the  water  along  the  line 
of  mills,  parallel  with  the  river  and  400  ft.  from  it,  and  another  long  canal 
is  cut  on  the  S.  bank.  The  principal  factories  are  the  Pemberton  Mills, 

28.000  spindles,  850  operatives;  the  Everett  Mills,  31,000  spindles,  960 
operatives;  the  Washington  Mills,  62,000  spindles,  1,265  looms,  and  2,900 
operatives  (using  1,300  tons  of  wool  annually,  making  broadcloth,  doe- 
skins, shawls,  cambrics,  &c.  ) ; the  Pacific  Mills,  136,604  spindles,  3,762^ 
looms,  with  a capital  of  $2,500,000,  employing  2,400  women  and  1,200 
men,  making  calicoes,  lawns,  dress-goods,  &c. ; the  Atlantic  Mills,  56,000 
spindles,  1,538  looms,  with  $1,500,000  capital,  and  1,200  hands,  making 

16.640.000  yards  of  sheetings  and  shirtings  ; the  Lawrence  Woollen  Co. ; 
the  Arlington  Woollen  Mills;  the  Russell  Paper  Co. ; and  several  foun- 
dries. 

Lawrence  (28,932  inhabitants)  is  one  of  the  three  capitals  of  Essex  Co., 
and  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  manufacturing  cities  of  New  England. 
The  mills  are  separated  from  the  city  by  the  canal,  and  their  great  depen- 
dent boarding-houses  are  isolated  by  a wide  green.  The  city  has  18 
churches,  5 Masonic  lodges,  4 lodges  of  Odd  Fellows,  3 weekly  and  2 daily 
newspapers.  The  Common  is  a fine  green  square,  with  abundance  of 
trees,  having  on  its  N.  side  the  handsome  Oliver  High  School  and  the 
Central  Cong.  Church.  On  the  E.  is  the  1st  Unitarian  and  Grace  Church 
(Epis. ),  while  on  the  S.  are  the  elegant  city  and  county  buildings.  In  the 
base  of  the  tower  of  the  City  Hall  are  two  huge  cannon-balls  which  were 
fired  from  the  iron-clad  fleet  on  the  rebellious  city  of  Charleston.  The 
“ Lawrence  American,”  the  leading  daily  paper  of  Essex  Co.,  has  a fine 
building.  The  city  has  good  public  libraries,  several  of  which  pertain  to 
the  cotton-mills.  The  valuation  of  Lawrence  (1870)  is  $ 17,500,000.  On 
a street  leading  W.  from  the  Common  is  the  stately  and  elegant  church  of 
the  lmmacidate  Conception  (Roman  Catholic)  in  the  purest  of  the  simpler 
forms  of  Gothic  architecture.  This  church  was  six  years  in  building,  and 
is  of  a handsome  gray  stone,  with  interior  arches,  columns,  and  a lofty 
clere-story  and  spire  of  the  same  material.  In  its  vicinity  are  several 


HAVERHILL. 


Route  38.  279 


Catholic  institutions,  which  are  powerful  and  highly  beneficent  in  their 
workings  among  the  factory  populations. 

The  city  was  named  from  Abbot  Lawrence,  a wealthy  and  philanthropic  Boston 
merchant,  who  was  one  of  its  founders.  He  was  a member  of  Congress  for  5 years. 
Minister  to  England  1849  - 1852,  and  endowed  the  Lawrence  Scientific  School  (at 
Cambridge)  with  $ 100,000.  His  son  was  Consul-General  to  Italy,  1862  - 9,  and  his 
brother  Amos  was  eminent  for  his  generosity,  having  given  $4-500,000  for  chari- 
table, educational,  and  religious  works. 

One  of  the  most  terrible  accidents  in  American  history  took  place  here  Jan.  10, 
1860,  when  the  Pemberton  Mills  fell,  on  account  of  thin  walls  and  insufficient  sup- 
ports, and  caught  fire  soon  after,  burning  alive  many  who  had  been  caught  in  the 
falling  ruins.  525  persons  were  killed  and  wounded  on  that  dreadful  day. 

The  Lowell  and  Lawrence  Division  of  the  Boston  and  Lowell  R.  R.  runs  from 
Lawrence  to  Lowell,  through  the  towns  of  Andover  and  Tewksbury.  There  are  4 
trains  each  way  daily,  in  40  minutes.  Distance,  13  M.  ; fare,  40  c. 

The  Manchester  and  Lawrence  R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  to  Manchester,  N.  H.,  in  70 
minutes.  Distance,  26  M.  ; fare,  80  c.  This  line  passes  through  Methuen,  a flourish- 
ing highland  village  near  the  Falls  of  the  Spigot  River.  About  3 M.  beyond  Law- 
rence the  line  enters  the  State  of  New  Hampshire.  Stations,  Salem  and  Windham. 
The  latter  village  is  2\  M.  S.  of  the  station.  This  town  has  a few  large  ponds,  and 
Glebe  Mt.  (1,800  ft.  high).  Station,  Berry  (stages  to  village  2 M.  E.),  famous  for 
apples.  200  city  people  spent  the  summer  of  1872  among  the  quiet  farms  in  this 
town. 

Stations,  Wilson’s  and  Londonderry  (stages  to  the  village,  2 M.  S.).  This  town 
was  settled  in  1719  by  a colony  of  Scotch  Presbyterians,  from  Ulster  Co.,  Ireland, 
and  was  named  for  the  old  country  Londonderry,  in  whose  long  and  terrible  siege 
several  of  the  immigrants  had  been  engaged.  Before  their  settlement  the  district 
was  called  Nutfield,  from  the  abundance  of  its  nut-trees.  On  the  first  day  of  their 
arrival,  the  settlers  collected  under  a great  oak-tree,  and  heard  a sermon  from 
their  pastor,  after  which  they  began  to  build  their  cabins.  Although  on  the 
remote  frontiers,  the  town  was  never  molested  by  the  Franco-Indian  marauders, 
commands  to  that  effect  having  been  issued  by  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil,  Gov.- 
Gen.  of  Canada,  who  had  been  a classmate  at  college  with  McGregore,  the  Lon- 
donderry pastor.  The  first  American  resistance  to  Gen.  Gage’s  troops  was  when 
a detachment  marched  from  Boston  to  this  place  (46  M.)  and  captured  several 
deserters  from  the  British  line  regiments.  The  townsmen  rose,  and  pursued  the 
troops,  and  forced  them  to  release  their  prisoners,  who  became  residents  of  Lon- 
donderry. Colonels  Reed,  McCleary,  and  Gregg,  and  Gen.  Stark  (victor  at  Ben- 
nington), all  of  the  Continental  Army,  were  born  here.  The  Seotch-Irish  colo- 
nists introduced  the  potato,  the  foot- wheel,  and  the  loom  into  New  England.  6 
M.  beyond  Londonderry  Station  the  line  enters  the  city  of  Manchester  (see 
Route  29). 

The  Lawrence  Branch  (of  the  Eastern  R.  R.)  runs  from  LawrenceS.  E.  to  Salem. 


The  main  line  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  follows  (beyond  Law- 
rence) the  r.  bank  of  the  Merrimac  River  for  10  M.,  to  the  city  of  Haver- 
hill, passing  N.  Andover  and  Bradford. 

Haverhill  ( Eagle  House  ; American  House)  is  a handsome  city,  built  on 
hills  which  slope  down  to  the  Merrimac  River,  which  is  navigable  to  this 
point  (18  miles  from  the  sea).  In  1830,  it  had  3,912  inhabitants,  and  in 
1870,  13,092.  The  principal  business  of  the  place  is  the  manufacture  of 
shoes,  in  which  it  is  second  only  to  Lynn.  In  1869,  6,000  persons  were 
here  employed  in  this  industry,  and  over  5,000,000  pairs  of  shoes  were 
made. 

Haverhill  has  17  churches,  two  or  three  of  which  are  quite  handsome. 


280  j Route  38. 


EXETER. 


The  new  City  Hall  (on  Main  St.)  is  an  imposing  building,  well  adapted 
for  the  civic  offices.  From  Golden  Hill  there  is  a fine  view  of  the  river 
and  city,  and  of  the  ancient  village  of  Bradford  (famed  for  its  academy 
for  girls,  now  occupying  extensive  buildings  on  a far-viewing  hill.  This 
academy  was  founded  in  1803,  and  was  a nursery  of  missionaries’  wives,  — 
Harriet  Newell,  Mrs.  Judson,  and  others).  1M.  N.  E.  of  Haverhill,  and 
in  its  rapidly  extending  suburbs,  is  the  pretty  Lake  Kenoza,  surrounded 
by  hills.  A neat  stone  club-house  has  been  built  on  its  banks  by  some 
Haverhill  gentlemen.  This  lake  was  named,  and  has  been  written  of,  by 
the  poet  Whittier,  who  was  bom  at  Haverhill  in  1807. 

A fine  Soldiers'  Monument , with  a statue  of  a U.  S.  soldier  (heroic  size) 
on  a high  pedestal,  all  in  white  marble,  has  been  erected  in  the  city,  N. 
of  the  City  Hall. 

Gen.  Moses  Hazen,  born  at  Haverhill  in  1733,  was  an  officer  in  the  campaigns 
of  Crown  Point,  Louisburg,  and  Quebec,  and  commanded  the  2d  Canadian  Con- 
tinental Reg.  (“  Congress’s  Own”)  from  1776  to  1781.  He  then  moved  to  Ver- 
mont, and  one  of  his  descendants  was  Gen.  W.  B.  Hazen,  who  long  fought  the 
Comanches,  then  commanded  a brigade  (1861  - 2)  at  the  battles  of  Shiloh,  Corinth, 
Stone  River,  Chickamauga,  and  Mission  Ridge.  In  Sherman’s  march  to  the  sea, 
he  commanded  the  2d  division  of  the  15th  corps,  with  which  he  stormed  Fort 
McAllister,  at  Savannah,  Dec.  13,  1864. 

Haverhill  was  settled  in  1641,  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Pentucket,  by  a colony 
led  by  Rev.  John  Ward,  who  came  from  Haverhill  in  England.  The  village  church 
was  scientifically  fortified,  but  the  town  lost  many  men  during  Queen  Anne’s  War. 
In  1698  the  Indians  took  Mrs.  Hannah  Duston,  with  her  nurse  and  her  child  (6 
days  old).  The  latter  they  murdered,  and,  after  a long  march  through  the  forests, 
told  the  women  that  they  were  to  be  forced  to  run  the  gauntlet  when  they  reached 
the  village.  That  night  Mrs.  Duston,  with  the  nurse  and  a young  English  boy, 
arose  silently  and  killed  10  of  the  12  Indians,  scalped  them,  and  dropped  down 
the  river  in  a bark  canoe  to  Haverhill.  In  1708  the  village  was  attacked  by  250 
French  and  Indians,  and  40  of  its  people  were  killed  and  captured. 

The  river-road  to  Newburyport  runs  by  the  side  of  the  Merrimac,  through  a 
picturesque  succession  of  hill-towns.  Daily  stages  leave  Haverhill  for  Newbury- 
port, W.  Amesbury,  and  Hampstead. 

A railroad  runs  from  Haverhill  to  Newburyport  via  Georgetown,  in  16  M.  5 
trains  daily  are  run  each  way,  in  40  - 60  minutes. 

After  leaving  Haverhill  the  main  line  runs  N.  into  New  Hampshire. 
Stations,  Atkinson  (stage  to  Hampstead),  Plaistow  (stages  to  Sandown 
and  Danville),  Newton , and  E.  Kingston  (stage  to  Kingston).  These  are  all 
quiet  farming  towns  in  Rockingham  County,  N.  H.  Station,  Exeter  (good 
restaurant  in  the  station;  Squamscott  House  ; American  House),  a pretty 
village  of  3,437  inhabitants,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  Exeter  River. 
Exeter  was  founded  by  Rev.  John  Wheelwright,  who  had  been  banished 
from  Mass,  for  the  heresy  of  Antimonianism.  He  bought  this  land  in  the 
wilderness  from  the  Indians,  but  when  it  was  annexed  to  Essex  Co., 
Mass.,  in  1642,  he  was  obliged  to  go  into  more  distant  exile.  The  In- 
dians about  Squamscott  Falls  migrated  to  the  vicinity  of  Troy  (on  the 
Hudson)  in  1672,  but  other  and  fiercer  tribes  menaced  the  village,  and 
nearly  40  of  the  people  were  killed  and  captured  during  the  later  Indian 
wars.  38  men  of  Exeter  died  in  the  Continental  Army.  In  1781,  Hon. 


EXETER. 


Route  38.  281 


John  Phillips  founded  Phillips  Academy,  and  endowed  it  with  $ 134,000. 
Benjamin  Abbot,  LL.  D.,  was  preceptor  of  the  Academy  from  1788  to 
1838,  and  Dr.  Gideon  L.  Soule  was  preceptor  from  1838  to  1873. 

Among  the  distinguished  men  who  have  been  prepared  for  college  here  are  John 
Pickering,  the  jurist  and  philologist ; Abiel  Abbot ; J.  S.  Buckminster,  the  popu- 
lar divine ; James  Walker,  the  Unitarian  theologian  ; Nathan  Lord,  D.  D.,  Presi- 
dent of  Dartmouth  College,  1828-63  ; A.  H.  Everett,  LL.  D.,  the  accomplished 
diplomatist  (to  Belgium,  Spain,  and  China)  ; Nathan  Hale,  LL.  D.,  the  journalist ; 
Leverett  Saltonstall,  LL.  D.  ; J.  G.  Cogswell,  LL.  D.,  of  the  Astor  Library  ; 
T.  W.  Dorr,  the  R.  I.  insurgent  Governor  ; J.  P.  Cushing,  President  of  Hampden- 
Sidney  College,  Va.,  1821-35;  Theodore  Lyman,  the  philanthropist;  Alpheus 
Felcli,  Senator  from  Michigan,  1847-53;  Charles  Paine,  of  Yt.  ; JohnP.  Hale, 
one  of  the  first  antislavery  senators  (from  N.  H.,  1847-53,  and  1855-65);  the 
eminent  historians,  Richard  Hildreth,  Jared  Sparks,  and  George  Bancroft ; Ed- 
ward Everett,  the  statesman  and  orator ; Daniel  Webster ; and  Lewis  Cass,  who 
was  bom  at  Exeter  in  1782.  An  officer  through  the  War  of  1812,  Governor  of 
Michigan,  1813-31,  Secretary  of  War  under  Jackson,  Minister  to  France,  1836- 
42,  Cass  came  near  being  elected  President  of  the  U.  S.  in  1848,  receiving  137  elec- 
toral votes  to  163  given  for  Gen.  Taylor.  He  was  U.  S.  Senator,  1845  - 8,  and 
1851-7,  and  from  1857  to  Dec.,  1860,  was  Secretary  of  State.  His  policy  was 
steadily  proslavery,  but  he  favored  the  national  government  during  the  Rebellion. 
He  died  in  1866,  at  Detroit,  where  54  years  before  he  had  been  made  prisoner  by 
the  British  (with  the  whole  Army  of  the  Northwest)  while  a captain  in  the  3d 
Ohio  Regiment. 

The  Academy  buildings  are  pleasantly  situated  on  an  elm-shaded 
campus,  and  are  mostly  of  the  old-time  architecture.  The  Robinson 
Female  Seminary  is  also  located  in  Exeter,  and  is  of  modern  foundation 
and  richly  endowed. 

Exeter  is  a farming  town,  and  in  the  village  are  the  Rockingham  County 
buildings.  The  Squamscott  Falls  furnish  a water-power  which  is  utilized 
by  works  for  the  manufacture  of  cotton  and  woollen  cloths,  and  car- 
riages ; also  for  large  morocco  tanneries,  brass  and  machine  works,  and 
lumber-mills. 

Stages  run  from  Exeter  to  Kensington,  Amesbury,  Salisbury,  and  Newburvport 
(see  Route  37)  ; to  Kingston,  Sandown,  Brentwood,  Chester,  and  Fremont,  tri- 
weekly ; and  to  Hampton  Beach  (see  Route  37)  semi-daily  in  summer  and  Sep- 
tember. 

Stations,  S.  Newmarket,  and  Newmarket  Junction  (restaurant),  where 
the  Concord  and  Portsmouth  track  crosses  the  present  route.  New- 
market ( Washington  House;  Newmarket  House)  is  a village  containing 
cotton  and  lumber-mills. 

Tri-weekly  stages  run  from  Newmarket  to  Lee,  Nottingham,  North  wood, 
Epsom,  Chichester,  and  Concord. 

Station,  Durham , the  old  Oyster  River  settlement,  many  of  whose  people 
were  killed  in  various  Indian  raids  during  King  Philip’s  War.  In  1695, 
the  village  was  carried  by  assault,  though  defended  by  12  garrison -houses, 
and  nearly  100  of  its  people  were  killed  or  captured.  The  town  is  now 
known  for  its  excellent  hay-crops,  which  are  obtained  from  the  deep 
argillaceous  loam  along  the  Oyster  River.  Over  1,000  tons  are  exported 
annually.  Stations,  Madbury,  and  Dover  (A  merican  House  ; New  Hamp - 


282  Route  38. 


DOVER. 


shire  House),  a busy  little  manufacturing  city  at  the  lower  falls  of  the 
Cocheco  River.  Dover  has  over  9,000  inhabitants,  3 banks,  11  churches, 
4 weekly  papers,  and  extensive  manufactories.  The  Cocheco  Mills  em- 
ploy 1,000  hands  and  50,000  spindles,  with  a capital  of  $1,300,000,  and 
make  11,000,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths  yearly.  The  Cocheco  Print 
Works,  with  240  hands,  print  16,000,000  yards  yearly,  and  there  are 
other  branches  of  industry,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  shoe  business,  in 
which  12  firms  are  engaged.  Pretty  views  are  obtained  from  the  hills 
near  the  city,  and  the  City  Hall  is  a handsome  structure. 

Dover  is  the  oldest  place  in  the  State,  having  been  settled  in  the  spring  of 
1623,  on  the  point  of  land  at  the  confluence  of  the  Newichawannick  and  Bel- 
lamy Rivers  (4  M.  S.  E.  of  the  city).  The  pioneer  colony  was  composed  of  Epis- 
copalians sent  over  by  the  Laconia  Company,  and  they  had  much  trouble  with 
the  Mass.  Puritans.  In  1641,  Dover  was  annexed  by  Mass.,  and  in  1679  was  re- 
turned to  N.  H.  The  people  had  a man  to  “beate  the  drumme  on  Lord’s  days  to 
give  notice  for  the  time  of  meeting  ” until  1665,  when  they  built  “a  Terrett  upon 
the  meitting  house  for  to  hang  the  Bell.”  In  1657  they  “chose  by  voet  a Scoell- 
master,”  and  in  1653  they  built  the  meeting-house  “40  foote  longe  and  26  foote 
wide.”  Major  Walderne  settled  on  the  present  site  of  the.  city,  and  built  a strong 
garrison-house.  Here  he  was  visited  in  1676,  during  a time  when  peace  reigned 
in  this  region,  by  400  Indians,  two  companies  of  troops  being  with  him.  He  won 
the  confidence  of  the  Indians,  and  arranged  a sham-fight  between  them  and  the 
colonial  soldiers.  When  their  guns  were  discharged  the  troops  rushed  in  and  dis- 
armed them,  after  which  200  were  sent  to  Boston  as  prisoners,  Several  of  these 
were  executed  on  Boston  Common,  and  the  remainder  were  sold  into  slavery  in 
the  West  Indies.  13  years  later  a powerful  Indian  force  seized  Dover  by  night, 
and  destroyed  4 garrisons,  killing  23  and  capturing  29  persons.  Walderne,  then 
74  years  old,  and  commander  of  the  forces  of  N.  H.,  they  captured,  and  placed 
in  a chair  on  a table  within  his  own  hall,  where  they  slowly  slashed  him  to  death. 
The  town  was  the  object  of  other  disastrous  attacks  during  the  Indian  wars,  but 
was  never  abandoned  by  its  intrepid  people. 

Tri-weekly  stages  run  from  Dover  to  Barrington  and  Strafford  (Bow  Lake 
House),  near  Bow  Lake  (which  covers  1,625  acres),  and  the  Blue  Hills. 


Dover  to  Lake  Winnepesaukee. 

The  Dover  and  Winnepesaukee  Railroad  runs  to  Alton  Bay  (28£  M).  Stations, 
Pickering’s,  and  Gonic  (with  stages  running  to  Barrington,  Strafford,  and  Barn- 
stead).  At  Rochester  (see  page  213)  connections  are  made  with  the  Portsmouth, 
Great  Falls,  and  Conway  R.  R.,  and  with  the  Portland  and  Rochester  R.  R. 
Stations,  Place’s,  and  Farmington  {Elm  House),  a shoe-manufacturing  village  near 
the  Blue  Hills,  or  Frost  Mts.  Frem  the  loftiest  of  these  hills,  Mt.  Monadnock, 
the  White  Mts.,  and  the  ocean  may  be  seen  on  a clear  day. 

Henry  Wilson  was  born  at  Farmington  in  1812.  He  was  educated  with  money 
earned  by  his  own  labor,  and  settled  at  Natick  (Mass.)  in  1838,  as  a shoemaker. 
Declaring  himself  an  uncompromising  foe  of  negro  slavery,  his  abilities  soon  won 
him  honorable  fame  in  the  State  politics,  and  after  rising  from  one  office  to  an- 
other for  15  years,  he  was  chosen  U.  S.  Senator  in  1855.  In  1872  he  was  elected 
Vice-President  of  the  U.  S.  His  most  distinguished  senatorial  labors  were  in 
connection  with  the  antislavery  movement  and  the  Kansas  troubles,  emancipa- 
tion, reconstruction,  and  the  conduct  of  the  war. 

After  leaving  Farmington  the  line  passes  three  rural  stations,  and  stops  at  Al- 
ton Bay,  on  Lake  Winnepesaukee.  The  Bay  View  House  is  located  here  ($10.00 
a week  and  upwards),  and  has  a large  livery  stable  attached,  with  pleasant  drives 
in  the  vicinity.  (See  page  218). 

Stages  run  from  Alton  to  tlie  three  villages  (North,  Centre,  and  Parade)  of 
Barnstead  ; to  Pittsfield,  15  M ; to  Lake  Village  and  Laconia,  18-20  M.  ; and  to 
Wolfboro,  10  M. 


OLD  ORCHARD  BEACH. 


Route  38.  283 


The  fine  iron  steamer,  “ Mt.  Washington,”  leaves  Alton  Bay  on  arrival  of  the 
trains,  twice  daily  (in  summer),  for  the  villages  on  the  lake.  The  distance  to 
Centre  Harbor  is  30  M.  (see  Route  32). 

The  first  station  beyond  Dover,  on  the  main  line,  is  Rollinsford,  whence 
a branch  track  runs  (in  3 M. ) to  the  factories  at  Great  Falls.  Station, 
Salmon  Falls  (Franklin  House),  the  seat  of  two  cotton-mills  at  the  falls 
on  the  Newichawannick  River.  At  Salmon  Falls  the  Boston  and  Maine 
Extension  R.  R.  begins,  and  runs  to  Portland  in  40  M.,  having  been 
opened  to  travel  in  the  spring  of  1873.  The  Boston  and  Maine  cars  for- 
merly ran  from  S.  Berwick  Junction  to  Portland  over  the  rails  of 
Route  37. 

After  passing  N.  Berwick,'  Wells  is  reached  (in  14  M.  from  Salmon  Falls). 
The  station  is  about  1 M.  from,  and  is  the  nearest  route  to,  Wells  Beach 
(Atlantic  House ; Island  Ledge  House),  which  is  one  of  the  best  of  the 
Maine  beaches.  Stations,  Kennebunk  (about  2J  M.  from  the  maritime 
hamlet  of  Kennebunkport),  Biddeford,  and  Saco  (see  Route  37.)  The 
train  crosses  the  Saco  River  between  the  busy  manufacturing  cities  of 
Biddeford  and  Saco,  and  bears  away  for  4 M.  to  Old  Orchard  Beach 
(*01d  Orchard  House,  400  guests,  $14-  25.00  a week,  — telegraph,  band, 
and  ball  and  reading  rooms  in  the  house  ; * Ocean  House,  near  the  former, 
and  of  great  extent;  the  Gorham  and  the  Montreal  Houses  are  less  ex- 
pensive). The  track  runs  between  the  great  hotels  (on  the  1.)  and  the 
beach,  and  the  station  is  very  commodiously  situated.  Stages  run  from 
the  beach  to  the  Saco  station  on  Route  37.  This  beach,  which  has  been 
called  the  finest  in  New  England,  extends  from  the  Saco  River  to  Pine 
Point,  at  the  mouth  of  Scarborough  River,  a distance  of  10  M.,  with  a 
breadth  (at  low  water)  of  300  ft.  The  sand  is  very  hard  and  smooth,  and 
affords  an  admirable  drive-way,  while  from  the  absence  of  undertow,  the 
surf-bathing  is  perfectly  safe.  Near  the  hotels  is  a beautiful  forest-park 
of  30  acres,  with  pleasant  paths,  arbors,  and  rustic  adornments.  About 
2 M.  distant,  on  Foxwell’s  Brook,  is  a picturesque  waterfall,  60  ft.  high. 
The  beach  derives  its  name  from  an  ancient  orchard  of  apple-trees,  the 
last  of  which  died  before  the  Revolution.  Old  Orchard  is  probably  the 
most  fashionable  of  the  seaside  resorts  E.  of  Hampton  and  Rye,  if  not  of 
all  E.  of  Swampscott. 

5J  M.  from  Old  Orchard  is  Scarborough  station,  which  is  about  3 M. 
from  Scarborough  Beach.  The  train  now  runs  over  Cape  Elizabeth, 
crosses  Fore  River  on  a long  and  costly  bridge,  and  enters  Portland, 
6J  M.  from  Scarborough,  and  115  M.  from  Boston. 


284  Route  39. 


LAKE  SEBAGO. 


39.  Portland  to  the  White  Mts. 

Portland  to  N.  Conway,  60  M.,  by  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad. 
This  line  is  now  being  pushed  forward  from  N.  Conway  into  the  Crawford  Notch. 
The  company  is  constructing  a through  route  from  Portland  to  Montreal  and 
Ogdensburg,  for  the  transportation  of  passengers  and  of  Western  produce.  It 
has  already  been  built  from  Portland  nearly  to  the  Notch,  from  W.  Concord 
through  St.  Johnsbury  to  Wolcott  (in  Vermont),  and  for  some  distance  S.  E. 
from  Sheldon.  Considerably  more  than  half  the  track  (in  New  England)  has  been 
laid,  and  the  ends  of  the  various  sections  are  slowly  approaching  each  other,  the 
company  being  aided  by  liberal  loans  from  the  towns  on  the  route. 

The  train  leaves  the  union  station  in  Portland  under  Bramhall  Hill,  and 
passes  out  to  Westbrook  (in  a town  of  about  7,000  inhabitants),  with 
several  villages  in  which  are  manufactured  cotton  cloths,  twine,  wire, 
and  iron  goods,  with  large  quantities  of  paper.  Immense  quantities 
of  canned  goods  are  prepared  here,  and  the  total  manufactures  of  West- 
brook amount  to  $ 3,500,000  yearly.  Station,  S.  Windham,  in  a town 
which  was  settled  in  1737  and  guarded  by  a Mass.  fort.  The  Oriental 
Powder  Works  are  located  here,  and  the  Mallison  Falls  on  the  Presump- 
scott  River  are  S.  of  the  village.  Stations,  White  Rock , and  Sebago 
Lake,  whence  steamers  leave  for  Harrison. 

Lake  Sebago 

is  14  M.  long  by  11  M.  wide,  and  has  a depth,  in  some  parts,  of  400  ft. 
6 towns  are  on  its  shores,  and  others  are  located  on  the  connecting  lakes 
to  the  N.  Fine  steamers  leave  Pavilion  Bay  (at  Lake  Sebago  station)  and 
soon  pass  (on  the  r. ) Indian  Island,  and  Frye’s  Island,  with  1,000  acres  of 
forest.  When  the  broader  part  of  the  lake  is  gained,  “to  the  N.  E., 
Rattlesnake  Mt.  is  seen  ; and  in  the  same  direction,  near  the  lake,  is  the 
boyhood  home  of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne.  We  also  pass  on  our  r.  the  14 
Dingley  Islands.  The  scenery  on  the  W.  is  wilder  and  more  rugged. 
Saddleback  Mt.,  in  Baldwin,  is  plainly  visible,  from  which  the  eye  roams 
N.  E.,  beyond  the  Great  Bay,  over  the  Sebago  hills  and  farms  and 
forests.  Still  farthor  N.  is  Peaked  Mt.,  beyond  which  the  view  extends 
N.  to  Mt.  Kiarsarge  (Pequawket),  so  blue  and  cold  in  the  hazy  distance, 
while  the  White  Hills  may  be  distinctly  seen  if  the  day  is  tolerably  clear.” 
The  passage  across  Sebago  (“a  stretch  of  water  ”)  occupies  one  hour,  after 
which  the  steamer  enters  the  rapid  and  devious  Songo  River.  “ It  is  but 
2J  M.,  as  the  crow  flies,  to  the  head  of  the  river,  and  yet  we  must  sail  6 M. 
and  make  27  turns.”  Picturesque  contrasts  of  farm  and  forest,  granite 
ledge  and  intervale,  make  the  voyage  on  these  narrow  waters  pleasant  and 
novel.  5 M.  from  Sebago  the  steamer  enters  a lock  at  the  confluence  of 
Crooked  or  Pequawket  River,  which  rises  about  35  M.  N.  in  the  town  of 
Albany.  After  rising  several  feet  in  the  lock,  the  steamer  passes  N.  into 
the  Bay  of  Naples,  near  the  head  of  which  is  Naples  (Elm  House),  a small 


FRYEBURG. 


Route  39.  285 


village  in  a farming  town.  Before  stopping  at  this  place,  the  steamer 
passes  through  a drawbridge,  and,  after  leaving  it,  it  steams  out  on  Long 
Lake.  This  is  a river-like  expanse  of  water  12-14  M.  long  and  less  than 
2 M.  wide.  9 M.  from  Naples  the  boat  stops  at  Bridgton,  whence  a stage 
runs  1 M.  W.  to  Bridgton  Centre  (Bridgton  House  ; Cumberland  House). 
This  is  an  important  manufacturing  village,  with  a weekly  paper,  a 
savings-bank,  and  three  churches,  in  a town  originally  called  Pondicherry, 
from  the  abundance  of  small  ponds  and  wild  cherries  found  there.  This 
village  has  become  somewhat  of  a summer  resort  in  a quiet  way,  from  its 
vicinity  to  the  lake  and  to  picturesque  hill-scenery.  The  next  stojjping- 
place  on  the  lake  is  N.  Bridgton  (Lake  House),  a small  village  on  the 
stage  line  from  Fryeburg  to  S.  Paris.  N.  of  this  place  is  Waterford, 
(Bear  Mt.  House  ; Forest  House),  a thinly  settled  town  with  12  ponds  and 
much  picturesque  scenery.  The  steamer  now  crosses  the  lake  to  Harrison 
(Elm  House),  a small  hamlet  at  the  end  of  the  route.  Daily  stages  run 
from  Harrison  to  S.  Paris  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  (14  M.  N.  E. ; 
fare  $ 1.00). 


After  leaving  the  Lake  Sebago  Station,  the  train  passes  the  stations, 
Richville  and  Steep  Falls,  in  the  town  of  Standish,  which  was  granted  to 
and  settled  by  veterans  of  the  Louisburg  campaigns,  and  named  after  the 
Pilgrim  captain.  Beyond  Steep  Falls,  the  line  follows  the  valley  of  the 
Saco,  and  passes  through  the  town  of  Baldwin  (stations,  Baldwin  and  W. 
Baldwin).  The  Great  Falls  of  the  Saco  are  seen  from  the  train  beyond 
W.  Baldwin,  near  which  the  Ossipee  River  meets  the  Saco.  The  river 
falls  72  ft.  in  several  successive  pitches.  The  train  now  enters  the  town 
of  Hiram,  on  narrow  intervales  along  the  Saco,  and  stops  at  Hiram  Bridge 
(Mt.  Cutler  House).  As  the  train  crosses  the  old  pine-plains  of  Hiram 
and  enters  Brownfield,  occasional  glimpses  are  caught  of  Mt.  Pleasant,  a 
few  miles  N.  in  Denmark.  This  is  a lofty,  isolated  mountain,  8-10  M. 
around  at  the  base,  with  a public  house  on  its  summit,  from  which  the 
view  is  said  to  be  fine,  and  by  some  it  is  held  to  be  equal  to  that  from 
Mt.  Washington.  The  principal  view  is  to  the  N.  W.  along  the  cluster- 
ing peaks  of  the  White  Mts.  Station,  Brownfield  (Brownfield  House), 
whose  farm-houses  admit  many  summer  visitors,  Burnt  ‘ Meadow  and 
Frost  Mts.  being  the  principal  objects  of  interest.  Stages  leave  daily  for 
Denmark,  and  for  Bridgton,  on  Lake  Sebago. 

The  plains  along  the  river  grow  wider  and  more  productive,  as  the 
train  passes  on  to  Fryeburg  (Oxford  House),  a pretty  village  “on  a 
broad,  level  plain,  slightly  elevated  above  the  intervales  of  the  Saco, 
which  encloses  it  in  one  of  its  huge  folds.”  Many  summer  visitors  rest 
at  the  comfortable  old  hotel,  while  others  are  quartered  in  the  boarding- 


286  Route  39. 


FRYEBURG. 


houses  which  are  found  in  the  village.  The  intervales  of  Fryeburg  are 
noted  for  their  richness  and  beauty,  and  contain  nearly  10,000  acres  which 
are  annually  overflowed  and  fertilized  by  the  Saco.  On  these  meadows  is 
the  winter  home  of  large  droves  of  cattle  who  graze  on  the  mountains 
during  the  summer.  There  are  several  thousand  acres  of  forest  in  the 
town  and  it  is  claimed  that  Fryeburg  has  more  standing  timber  now  than 
it  had  40  years  ago.  The  principal  points  for  excursions  are  Stark’s  Hill 
(500  ft.  high),  Jockey  Cap,  and  Pine  Hill,  eminences  near  the  village,  which 
command  panoramic  views  of  the  distant  White  Mts.  and  of  Chocorua. 
Mt.  Pleasant  is  9 M.  to  the  E.,  and  is  often  visited  for  the  sake  of  its 
noble  over-view,  and  Lovewell’s  Pond  is  near  the  village  (by  the  Pine 
Street  road). 

Capt.  John  Love  well,  the  son  of  an  ensign  in  Cromwell’s  Puritan  army,  was  an  able 
partisan  officer  of  the  colonies.  In  April,  1725,  he  led  46  men  from  the  Mass,  fron- 
tier towns  by  a long  and  arduous  march  into  the  heart  of  the  Pequawket  country. 
After  marching  over  100  M.,  they  reached  Saco  (now  Love  well’s)  Pond  with  34 
men,  and  here  they  encamped  for  36  hours,  near  the  chief  village  of  the  Indians. 
On  Saturday,  May  6,  while  they  were  assembled  around  the  chaplain  on  the 
beach,  and  ere  the  morning  devotions  had  been  finished,  a gun  was  heard  and  an 
Indian  was  seen  watching  them.  They  left  their  packs  near  the  pond,  and  ad- 
vanced toward  the  intervales,  but  met  an  Indian  in  the  forest  who  shot  and  mor- 
tally wounded  Lovewell,  though  his  own  death  followed  quickly.  Meantime  the 
Sachem  Paugus  and  80  warriors  had  found  and  counted  the  packs  and  laid  an 
ambuscade  near  them,  which  completely  entrapped  the  Americans  on  their 
return.  The  magnanimous  Paugus  ordered  his  men  to  fire  over  the  heads  of  the 
invaders,  and  then  to  bind  them  with  ropes.  With  horrid  yells  the  Indians  leaped 
forth  and  asked  Lovewell  if  he  would  have  quarter.  “ Only  at  the  muzzles  of 
your  guns  ! ” shouted  the  brave  captain,  and  led  his  men  against  the  unprepared 
enemy.  They  drove  the  Indians  some  rods,  but  were  repulsed  by  a fierce  counter- 
charge, in  which  Lovewell  and  8 of  his  men  were  killed.  Then  the  Americans 
retreated  slowly,  fighting  inch  by  inch,  to  a position  with  the  pond  on  their  rear. 
Battle  Creek  on  the  r.,  and  Rocky  Point  on  the  1.  This  sheltered  position  they 
maintained  for  eight  hours  against  continual  assaults,  and  at  sundown  the  In- 
dians retreated,  leaving  39  killed  and  wounded,  including  Paugus,  who  fell  late  in 
the  contest.  Throughout  the  long  day  the  yells  of  the  Indians,  the  cheers  of  the 
Americans,  and  the  pattering  of  musketry  resounded  through  the  forest,  while 
Chaplain  Frye,  mortally  wounded  while  fighting  among  the  foremost,  was  often 
heard  praying  for  victory.  In  the  moonlit  midnight  hour  the  provincials  re- 
treated, leaving  15  of  their  number  dead  and  dying  on  the  field,  while  10  of  the 
19  others  were  wounded.  After  suffering  terribly  on  the  retreat,  the  little  band 
reached  the  settlements.  The  battle  at  Pequawket  filled  the  northern  tribes  with 
fear,  and  caused  some  of  them  to  move  to  Canada.  A long  and  mournful  ballad 
of  30  stanzas  (like  the  old  Scottish  ballad  of  Chevy  Chase)  commemorates  this 
forest-fight. 

“ What  time  the  noble  Lovewell  came 
With  fifty  men  from  Dunstable, 

The  cruel  Pequot  tribe  to  tame 
With  arms  and  bloodshed  terrible. 

“ Ah!  many  a wife  shall  rend  her  hair. 

And  many  a child  cry  ‘ Woe  is  me!  ’ 

When  messengers  the  news  shall  bear 
Of  Love  well's  dear-bought  victory. 

“ With  footsteps  low  shall  travellers  go 

Where  Lovewells  Pond  shines  clear  and  bright, 

And  mark  the  place  where  those  are  laid 
Who  fell  in  Lovewell  s bloody  fight.” 

Fryeburg  was  granted  to,  settled  by,  and  named  for,  Gen.  J oseph  Frye,  of  An- 


PORTLAND  TO  QUEBEC  AND  MONTREAL.  Route  40.  287 


dover,  Mass.,  a veteran  officer  of  the  French  wars.  It  was  for  many  years  the 
only  town  near  the  White  Mts.,  and  grew  rapidly,  having  a weekly  market-day 
which  filled  its  streets  with  busy  life.  An  academy  was  early  established  here 
(endowed  by  Mass.),  and  was  taught  in  1802  by  Daniel  Webster.  Governor  Enoch 
Lincoln  lived  here  from  1811  to  1819,  and  wrote  a long  poem,  entitled  “The  Vil- 
lage,” which  was  “descriptive  of  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  fairest  town  on  the 
stream  of  the  Saco.”  A few  Pequawket  Indians  lingered  in  this  locality  after  the 
dispersal  of  the  tribe,  and  did  good  service  in  the  expedition  of  Rogers’s  Rangers 
against  St.  Francis,  and  in  the  Continental  Army. 


Stages  run  from  Fryeburg  to  Paris,  by  way  of  Lovell,  Sweden,  Waterford,  and 
Norway  (30  M.)  ; also  by  Bridgton,  Harrison,  and  Norway  (32  M.).  These  towns 
are  all  in  the  Pequawket  country,  and  Lovell  (2  small  inns)  has  the  beautiful 
Kezer  Pond,  which  is  1 M.  wide  and  8 M.  long. 

After  the  train  leaves  Fryeburg,  the  mountain  views  in  front  and  to  the 
1.  are  fine.  The  line  enters  New  Hampshire,  and  passes  by  Conway 
Centre  to  N.  Conway  (see  page  223)  and  Upper  Bartlett. 


40.  Portland  to  Quebec  and  Montreal. 

Via  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  which  is  owned  and  operated  by  an  Anglo-Cana- 
dian corporation.  This  line  is  principally  used  for  the  transportation  of  freight, 
but  it  runs  one  through  passenger  train  daily.  Portland  to  Gorham,  91  M.,  in  4£- 
6 hours  ; to  Quebec,  317  M.,  in  19-20  hours;  to  Montreal,  297  M.,  in  17%  - 19 
hours. 

The  train  leaves  the  spacious  terminal  station  in  Portland,  near  the  Vic- 
toria Docks,  and,  passing  around  Munjoy’s  Hill,  crosses  the  mouth  of 
Back  Cove.  Thence  it  runs  through  the  towns  of  Falmouth  and  Cumber- 
land, near  Casco  Bay,  and  crosses  the  Maine  Central  Railway  at  Yar - 
mouth  Junction. 

Station,  N.  Yarmouth , settled  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Wescustogo 
about  1640,  and  deserted  in  1675 -8,  and  1688-1713,  on  account  of  the 
Indian  wars.  On  returning  in  1713,  the  settlers  found  a young  forest  cov- 
ering their  old  fields  and  roads.  Between  1725  and  1756  many  of  the 
colonists  were  killed  or  captured  by  the  Indians.  During  the  first  half  of 
the  present  century,  the  town  grew  and  prospered,  but  during  the  past  20 
years  it  has  lost  16  per  cent  of  its  population.  Stages  run  hence  to  Dur- 
ham, on  the  Androscoggin. 

Stations,  Pownal  and  New  Gloucester , the  latter  being  a pretty  and 
prosperous  village  which  was  founded  by  men  of  Gloucester,  Mass. , about 
1735.  At  Danville  Junction  the  Lewiston  Division  of  the  Maine  Central 
Railway  diverges  N.  E.,  and  runs  to  Lewiston,  Farmington,  Waterville, 
and  Bangor  (see  Route  46.) 

Station,  Mechanic  Falls,  near  a small  factory  village,  from  which  tri- 
weekly stages  run  to  Sumner  (18  M.  ; fare,  75  c.). 

The  Portland  and  Oxford  Central  Railway  runs  N.  from  Mechanic  Falls,  passing 
through  the  towns  of  Oxford,  Hebron,  Buckfield,  Hartford,  and  Canton  (three 
inns.).  These  towns  were  all  settled  in  the  latter  years  of  the  18th  century,  and 
the  last  four  named  have  been  losing  in  population  for  20  years.  Canton  was  the 


288  Route  Ifi. 


BETHEL. 


home  of  the  Rockomeka  Indians  (who  were  exterminated  by  the  small-pox  in 
1557  \ and  was  settled  in  1792  under  the  name  of  Phipps-Canada.  It  is  prettily 
situated  near  the  Androscoggin  River,  and  has  some  rich  intervale  lands. 

The  next  station  on  the  main  line  is  Oxford  (Lake  House),  from  which 
tri- weekly  stages  run  to  E.  Otisfield,  Casco,  and  Naples. 

Station,  S.  Paris  (Andrews  House),  a busy  village,  with  manufactures 
and  a large  country  trade.  Daily  stages  run  hence  to  Fryeburg,  33  M.  S. 
W.  (fare,  $2.00),  by  way  of  Norway,  Harrison,  and  Bridgton;  also  byway 
of  Waterford.  Stages  run  from  every  train  to  Paris  Hill  ( Hubbard 
House ; Union  House),  3 M.  N.  E.  This  is  a village  on  a hill  831  ft. 
high,  where  are  located  the  Oxford  County  buildings.  To  the  E.  is  Mt. 
Mica,  where  beautiful  specimens  of  tourmaline  are  found,  together  with  15 
other  minerals.  It  is  called  “ the  most  interesting  locality  of  rare  min- 
erals in  the  State  of  Maine.”  Streaked  Mt.  is  near  by,  and  is  nearly 
1,800  ft.  high.  Stations,  W.  Paris  and  Bryant's  Pond  (small  inn),  from 
which  tri- weekly  stages  run  to  Milton  Plantation,  Rumford,  and  Andover 
(21  M.  N. ; fare,  $ 1.50);  also  to  Rumford,  Mexico,  Dixfield,  and  N.  Jay 
(on  the  Androscoggin  Railroad).  Another  line  runs  from  Mexico  through 
Roxbury  to  Byron.  Rumford  has  some  high  hills,  — White  Cap,  Glass- 
Face,  and  others,  which  yield  thousands  of  bushels  of  blueberries  annually. 
The  Rumford  Falls  have  been  called  “ the  grandest  in  New  England,” 
and  have  suffered  but  little  from  “improvement.”  The  descent  of  the 
Androscoggin  River  is  over  150  ft.  in  three  or  four  plunges  over  ragged 
granite  ledges.  The  third  fall  has  a nearly  perpendicular  descent  of  70  - 
80  ft.,  and  its  roaring  is  heard  at  a great  distance.  There  are  three  taverns 
in  Rumford. 

At  Bryant’s  Pond  station  the  track  is  700  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  the 
Pond  itself  is  a pretty  highland  lake,  from  which  flows  the  Little  Andros- 
coggin River.  Station,  Bethel  (*  Chandler  House , accommodating  100 
guests  ; Chapman  House),  a beautiful  village  in  a town  of  about  2,200 
inhabitants.  The  broad  intervales  of  the  Androscoggin  are  outspread  here 
in  all  their  fertility  and  fairness,  while  noble  views  of  the  White  Mts.  in 
the  W.  are  obtained  from  adjacent  hills.  There  are  also  mineral  springs 
(small  hotel)  in  the  town,  and  numerous  summer  boarding-houses,  where 
comfort,  quiet,  and  abundant  country  fare  are  given  for  the  moderate 
price  of  $ 6 - 10.00  a week. 

Bethel  has  often  been  likened  to  N.  Conway  on  account  of  its  mountain- 
views  and  rich  intervales,  and  many  city  people  spend  their  summers 
here  to  enjoy  the  air,  the  scenery,  and  the  fine  fishing  in  the  vicinity.  12 
M.  S.  of  Bethel  are  the  Albany  Basins,  where  the  Pequawket  River  has 
worn  a wonderful  series  of  reservoirs  in  the  talcose  rock,  the  largest  of 
which  is  70  ft.  deep  and  40  ft.  in  diameter.  18  M.  N.  E.  of  Bethel,  by 
good  roads  and  through  pleasant  river-scenery,  are  the  Rumford  Falls. 


GILEAD. 


Route  J/0.  289 


Bethel  to  Lake  Umbagog. 

Semi-weekly  stage  to  Upton,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  in  26  M.  ; fare,  $2.50.  The 
country  traversed  is  mostly  in  a wild  state  and  thinly  populated,  but  affords  some 
striking  river  and  mountain  scenery.  The  Androscoggin  is  followed  for  6 M.  to 
S.  Newry  (small  inn),  after  which  the  road  lies  near  the  Bear  River,  and  6 M.  be- 
yond S.  Newry,  Bartlett's  Poplar  Tavern  is  passed.  The  Screw  Auger  Falls  are 
about  3 M.  from  this  point,  and  near  Fanning’s  Mills.  Beyond  the  Tavern  the 
high  hills  of  Grafton  (chief  among  which  are  Speckled  and  Saddleback  Mts.)  ap- 
pear to  close  across  the  road.  But  the  Bear  River  is  closely  followed  into  Graf- 
ton Notch,  a lonely  pass  among  the  frowning  hills.  The  remarkable  water- 
gorge  known  as  Moose  Chasm  is  situated  in  this  notch.  The  small  Cambridge 
River  is  now  approached,  and  in  its  valley  the  road  passes  on  to  the  lake.  The 
township  of  Upton  (formerly  Letter  B.  Plantation,  !Tnd  made  a town  in  1860)  is 
now  entered,  and  the  stage  stops  at  the  Lake  House , on  the  shore  of  Umbagog. 
There  are  two  other  inns  in  this  town,  which  has  180  inhabitants.  A steamer 
leaves  the  Lake  House  on  the  arrival  of  the  stage,  and  runs  to  Errol  Dam  (in  N. 
H.),  a rude  lumbermen’s  village,  with  two  inns.  Dixville  Notch  is  10  M.  N.  W. 
of  Errol,  and  the  handsome  village  of  Colebrook  is  20  M.  from  Errol  (by  the  Notch 
road).  From  Bethel  to  Colebrook  (see  page  243),  the  distance  is  about  60  M.  (the 
excursion  is  not  recommended  for  ladies). 

The  steamer  ascends  the  Magalloway  River  from  Errol  Dam  to  Durfee’s  Land- 
ing (12  M.),  whence  adventurous  parties  of  gentlemen  have  ascended  to  Parma- 
chene  Lake  and  Camel’s  RumpMt.,  which  overlooks  a wide  and  desolate  wilder- 
ness (see  Harper’s  Magazine,  Yol.  XX.). 


Bethel  was  settled  in  1773,  under  the  name  of  Sudbury-Canada,  and  here,  in 
1781,  occurred  the  last  Indian  depredation  in  Maine,  when  a small  war-party 
from  St.  Francis  plundered  the  outlying  houses,  killed  three  men,  and  led  three 
prisoners  to  Canada. 

The  next  station  beyond  Bethel  is  Gilead , a small  village  on  the  fertile 
Androscoggin  meadows,  between  two  ranges  of  shaggy  mountains.  It 
was  named  for  a great  balm-of-Gilead  tree  within  its  borders,  and  in  the 
early  years  was  almost  rendered  untenable  by  bold  raids  of  bears  with 
which  the  hills  were  infested.  On  the  night  of  the  Willey  slide  in  the 
White  Mt.  Notch  (1826),  immense  avalanches  fell  from  the  mountains  of 
Gilead,  especially  from  Picked  Hill.  “The  darkness  was  so  intense  as 
almost  to  be  felt.  The  vivid  lightnings  and  long  streams  of  fire  covering 
the  sides  of  the  mountains  caused  by  the  concussion  of  the  rocks,  only 
served  to  make  the  darkness  more  visible.  The  valley  rocked  as  though 
an  earthquake  were  shaking  the  earth.  ” 

Beyond  Bethel  the  railway  passes  the  village  of  W.  Bethel  and  runs 
through  the  glens  of  Gilead  to  Shelburne  (Winthrop  House).  From  this 
point  the  mountain-views  on  the  S.  W.  are  fine,  and  the  train  runs  down 
on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Androscoggin,  with  Mt.  Moriah  on  the  1.  and  Mt. 
Hayes  on  the  r.,  to  Gorham  (see  page  227).  Station,  Berlin  Falls  (small 
hotel),  near  the  famous  Falls  on  the  river,  and  next  to  Berlin  is  Milan , 
“ on  the  plains  of  Lumber-dy.”  The  view  down  the  river  from  Milan  is 
very  beautiful,  including  the  vast  forms  of  Mts.  Washington,  Adams,  and 
Madison.  E.  of  Milan  is  the  town  of  Success,  with  5 inhabitants,  and 
N.  of  Stark,  through  which  the  train  passes  beyond  Milan,  is  the  town 
13  ^ s 


290  Route  I/O. 


ST.  HYACINTHE. 


of  Odell,  with  about  25,000  acres  and  1 inhabitant.  The  line  now  follows 
the  Upper  Ammonoosuc  Eiver,  to  Northumberland,  and  thence  passes  up 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Connecticut  Eiver  to  Stratford  and  N.  Stratford,  with 
the  Percy  Peaks  on  the  r.  (see  page  243).  The  line  now  crosses  the  river 
and  runs  through  15  M.  of  uninhabited  forest  in  Vermont,  to  Island  Pond 
(*  Island  Pond  Hotel ; American ; Green  3ft.);  a village  erected  by 
the  railway,  which  has  spacious  buildings  here;  this  point  being  149 
M.  from  Portland  and  148  M.  from  Montreal.  The  border  custom-house  is 
located  here,  and  near  the  village  and  track  is  a pretty  lake,  2 M.  long 
and  \ M.  wide,  surrounded  by  a hard,  smooth  beach  of  white  quartz 
sand,  with  waters  abounding  in  fish.  About  12  M.  beyond  Island  Pond, 
the  train  passes  Norton  Pond,  and  enters  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  In 
the  course  of  the  next  33  M.  the  train  passes  3 stations,  and  reaches 
Lennoxville,  where  the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Eivers  E.  E. 
(Eoute  24)  comes  in  from  the  S.  28  M.  beyond  Lennoxville  is  Richmond 
(on  the  St.  Francis  Eiver),  the  seat  of  St.  Francis  College. 

The  Quebec  Branch  runs  76  M.  N.  E.  from  Eichmond  to  Quebec. 
Station,  Danville,  a pretty  rural  village,  with  beautiful  views  from  Clare- 
mont Hill  and  the  Pinnacle  (which  is  3 M.  from  Danville,  and  rises  1,000 
ft.  from  the  plain).  Kingsey  Falls  are  7 M.  distant,  and  are  often  visited. 
Station,  Arthabaska,  whence  a branch  road  runs  35  M.  N.  W.  down  the 
Becancour  valley  to  Three  Eivers,  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  10  M.  E.  of 
Arthabaska  is  Rouillard  Mt.,  whence  a broad  forest-view  is  gained,  ex- 
tending from  the  St.  Lawrence  40  M.  N.  W.  to  the  bright  Lakes  Aylmer 
and  St.  Francis,  in  the  distant  S.  E.  The  train  now  passes  on  through  a 
thinly  populated  country,  and  crosses  the  Chaudiere  Eiver  about  8 M. 
from  Quebec  (2-3  M.  from  the  Falls),  and  near  the  point  where  the  Eiviere 
du  Loup  Division  (125  M.  long)  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Eailway  diverges  to 
the  N . E.  The  train  stops  at  Point  Levi , opposite  Quebec,  and  pas- 
sengers are  carried  across  the  St.  Lawrence  in  ferry-boats. 

Quebec,  see  Eoute  56. 

From  Richmond  to  Montreal  the  distance  is  76  M.  (almost  due  W. ). 
After  passing  the  copper-mining  town  of  Acton,  the  train  reaches  St. 
Hyacinthe,  35  M.  from  Montreal.  This  is  a curious  old  Franco-Cana- 
dian  city,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  plains  on  both  sides  of  the  Yamaska 
Eiver.  The  Cathedral  is  a fine  building,  and  the  college  is  one  of  the 
best  in  America.  “ The  course  of  studies  here  is  said  to  be  only  equalled 
by  the  best  Jesuit  colleges  in  France.”  The  * college  building  is  an  im- 
posing structure  of  cut  stone,  700  ft.  long,  and  surmounted  by  a cupola. 
The  fertile  district  between  St.  Hyacinthe  and  Montreal  is  inhabited  by 
the  descendants  of  the  old  French  immigrants,  preserving  their  language, 
customs,  and  religion  intact.  The  railway  stations  on  this  tract  are 
Soixante,  St.  Hilaire,  St.  Bruno,  St.  Hubert,  and  St.  Lambert.  The 


FARMINGTON. 


Route  41.  291 


singular  mts.  of  Beloeil,  Yamaska,  and  Rongemont  are  passed,  and  at 
St.  Lambert  the  train  crosses  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  * Victoria  Bridge. 

Montreal,  see  Route  54. 


41.  Portland  to  Farmington  and  the  Western  Maine  Forest. 

Portland  to  Farmington,  93  M.,  in  5 hours  ; to  the  Rangeley  Lakes,  133  M. 

The  train  leaves  the  Portland  and  Kennebec  station  and  runs  over  Route 
47  to  Brunswick,  where  it  passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Androscoggin 
Division  of  the  Maine  Central  Railway.  Stations,  Lisbon  Falls  (a  manu- 
facturing village  on  the  falls  of  the  Androscoggin),  Lisbon , Crowley's 
(whence  a branch  railroad  diverges  to  Lewiston)  Sabbatisville,  and  Leeds 
Junction.  At  this  point  the  present  route  is  crossed  by  Route  46,  and 
close  connections  are  made,  so  that  passengers  who  prefer  that  route  may 
avail  themselves  of  it.  For  the  next  12  M.  the  line  runs  through  the 
town  of  Leeds,  stopping  at  the  stations,  Curtis  Corner , Leeds  Centre , and 
N.  Leeds. 

Gen.  O.  O.  Howard  was  born  at  Leeds  in  1830.  He  graduated  at  West  Point, 
and  was  an  instructor  there  until  the  outbreak  of  the  Rebellion  in  1861.  Leading 
the  3d  Maine  Volunteer  Infantry  into  the  field,  he  won  distinction  and  a general’s 
commission  at  Bull  Run,  and  lost  his  right  arm  at  the  battle  of  Fair  Oaks.  He 
commanded  the  11th  corps  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac  at  Fredericksburg, 
Chancellors ville,  and  Gettysburg,  and  then  fought  in  the  Georgia  campaigns.  He 
commanded  the  right  wing  of  Sherman’s  army  in  the  march  to  the  sea,  and 
since  the  war  has  been  engaged  in  the  work  of  bettering  the  condition  of  the 
negroes  and  Indians. 

The  next  three  stations  (Strickland’s  Ferry,  E.  Livermore,  and  Liver- 
more Falls)  are  in  the  long  town  of  E.  Livermore,  where  the  train  ap- 
proaches the  Androscoggin  River.  Livermore  Falls  is  devoted  to  manu- 
factures. This  district  was  called  Rockomeka,  or  “ great  corn  land,”  by 
the  Indians,  and  is  distinguished  for  its  fine  breeds  of  cattle. 

Just  across  the  river  is  the  town  of  Livermore,  the  birthplace  of  the  brothers, — 
Israel  Washburne,  Congressman,  1851-61,  and  Gov.  of  Maine,  1861-3  ; E.  B. 
Washburne,  Congressman  from  Illinois,  1853  -69,  and  Minister  to  France,  1869-73, 
an  able  statesman  and  skilful  diplomatist  ; and  C.  C.  Washburne,  Congressman 
from  Wisconsin,  1856-62  and  1867  -71,  a successful  general  in  the  campaigns  in  the 
lower  Mississippi  valley,  and  chosen  Gov.  of  Wisconsin  in  1871. 

Stations,  Jay  Bridge  and  N.  Jay  (stages  to  Dixfield  and  Bryant’s 
Pond,  on  Route  40,  in  37  M. ),  in  the  farming  town  of  Jay,  and  Wilton,  a 
manufacturing  village,  from  which  stages  run  W.  13  M.  to  Weld  (Mon- 
days and  Fridays),  a village  (small  inn)  on  the  shore  of  a lake,  with  lofty 
mts.  in  the  vicinity.  Bear  Mt.  is  on  the  S.,  Ben  Nevis  on  the  W.,  Metal- 
lic Mt.  on  the  N. , and  Bald  and  Blue  Mts.  on  the  E. , the  latter  being 
nearly  4,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  2,360  ft.  above  the  village.  Stages 
also  run  to  Chesterville,  on  the  E. 

Beyond  E.  Wilton,  the  train  crosses  the  Sandy  River  and  its  intervales 
on  a broad,  curving  trestle,  and  stops  at  Farmington  ( Stoddard  House  ; 


292  Route  41.  THE  RANGELEY  LAKES. 


Forest  House ; Elm  House).  The  town  has  3,252  inhabitants,  with  2 
banks,  a weekly  paper,  and  5 churches.  This  bright  village  is  situated 
on  the  favorite  grain-lands  of  the  old  Canibas  Indians,  and  has  also  a 
lucrative  lumber- trade.  The  Western  State  Normal  School  is  located 
here;  also  the  Little  Blue  School,  the  Willows  (girls’  school),  and  the 
Farmington  Girls’  School,  so  that  this  remote  village  on  the  edge  of  the 
Forest  has  somewhat  of  an  academic  air.  The  Franklin  County  buildings 
are  also  located  here. 

Stages  run  from  Farmington  to  Temple ; to  Strong,  Avon,  and  Phillips  ; to 
Strong,  Freeman,  and  Salem  ; to  New  Vineyard,  New  Portland,  and  Kingfield  ; to 
Industry  and  Starks  ; to  New  Sharon,  Rome,  Belgrade,  and  Augusta. 

New  Portland  and  Kingfield  (Franklin  House)  are  picturesque  but  thinly  popu- 
lated mt.  towns.  Near  Kingfield  on  the  W.  is  the  Mt.  Abraham  Range,  3,387  ft. 
high.  The  natural  and  civil  histories  of  the  Maine  border  towns  are  monoto- 
nously alike.  They  were  mostly  settled  between  1775  and  1800,  exhibited  a slow 
growth  until  I860,  and  then  began  to  retrograde.  The  losses  occasioned  by  the 
war,  the  great  emigration  westward,  and  the  sterility  of  the  New  England*  race 
are  the  reasons  generally  assigned  for  this  decadence,  while  the  severity  of  the 
climate,  the  destruction  of  the  forests,  and  the  exhaustion  of  the  soil,  are  self- 
evident  natural  causes  of  decline.  Franklin  County,  through  which  the  present 
route  is  laid,  had  nearly  2,000  more  inhabitants  in  1860  than  in  1870,  and  in  that 
same  decade  the  State  lost  7,872  in  population.  This  has  been  Maine’s  loss,  but 
the  Union’s  gain,  and  natives  of  this  State  may  be  found  in  posts  of  trust  and 
honor  in  nearly  every  large  American  community. 

Farmington  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes. 

The  stage  leaves  on  arrival  of  the  Boston  train,  and  follows  up  the 
Sandy  Biver  valley  with  Mt.  Blue  on  the  1.,  to  Strong  ( Farmer's  Ho- 
tel), whence  another  stage  runs  to  Freeman  and  Salem.  Mt.  Blue  is 
rounded  on  the  1.,  and  the  stage  passes  through  a thinly  populated  country 
to  Phillips  (Barden  House).  The  village  is  situated  in  the  valley,  within 
an  easy  distance  of  Mt.  Blue,  and  near  some  fine  trout-streams.  It  is 
18-20  M.  from  Farmington,  and  20-22  M.  from  the  lake.  Travellers 
usually  spend  the  night  here,  and  take  stage  in  the  morning,  passing 
through  the  town  of  Madrid  (Madrid  House).  The  Saddleback  Mt., 
whose  chief  peak  is  nearly  4,000  ft.  high,  is  seen  on  the  r.,  and  the  stage 
reaches  the  Indian  Rock  House  after  passing  through  a dreary  wilderness 
beyond.  This  forest  tavern  is  on-  a favorite  old  Indian  camp-ground,  and 
is  near  the  curiously  bent  and  contorted  strata  of  Indian  Rock.  Lake 
Oquossoc,  or  Rangeley,  is  7 M.  long,  and  its  extreme  width  is  2 M.  It 
is  1,511  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is  surrounded  by  hills,  prominent  among 
which  is  Saddleback  Mt.,  on  the  E.  Moosetocmaguntic  Lake  is  reached 
by  boat,  or  by  a rude  forest-road  from  Indian  Rock,  and  is  10  M.  long  by 
2 - 4 M.  wide.  A chain  of  large  lakes  extends  from  Rangeley  to  Umba- 
gog,  embracing  80  square  miles  of  water  surface,  and  abounding  with 
blue-back  trout  and  other  fish.  Travelling  in  this  remote  wilderness  is 
very  difficult,  and  good  guides  should  be  obtained. 

About  30  M.  directly  N.  W.  of  Indian  Rock,  on  a line  which  crosses  the  Ken- 


PORTLAND  TO  THE  UPPER  KENNEBEC.  Route  42.  293 


nebago  and  Cupsuptic  (famous  trout-streams),  is  the  iron  post  which  marks  the 
intersecting  corners  of  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  and  Canada.  A.  line  of  iron  posts 
runs  thence  N.  W.  for  over  80  M.  to  the  Boundary  Branch  of  the  St.  Francis  Iiiver, 
marking  the  bounds  between  this  part  of  the  U.  S.  and  Canada,  as  established  in 
1842. 


42.  Portland  to  the  Upper  Kennebec. 

By  either  of  the  Routes  46  or  47  to  Waterville,  and  thence  by  a branch  railroad 
in  16  M.  to  Skowhegan.  This  line  passes  along  the  r.  bank  of  the  Kennebec, 
with'the  stations,  Fairfield,  Somerset  Mills,  and  Pishon  Ferry,  all  in  the  town  of 
Fairfield. 

The  new  Somerset  Railroad  is  now  in  operation  from  W.  "Waterville  (Route  46) 
to  Norridgewock,  a distance  of  15  M.,  and  is  being  pushed  on  to  Solon. 

Skowhegan  (Turner  House;  the  extensive  Skowhegan  Hotel  was 
burnt  in  1872)  is  a pleasant  village  in  a prosperous  town  of  about  4,000 
inhabitants.  It  has  3 banks,  a weekly  paper,  and  5 churches,  and 
derives  its  importance  from  numerous  manufactories  situated  on  a large 
water-power.  The  Kennebec  here  falls  28  ft.  perpendicularly  over  ragged 
ledges,  with  a picturesque  island  ending  at  the  crest  of  the  fall.  The 
falls  are  best  viewed  from  the  point  near  the  site  of  the  Skowhegan  Ho- 
tel, or  from  the  carriage-bridge  below.  From  the  latter  point  there  is  a 
pleasant  view  down  the  river,  the  most  prominent  object  being  the  grace- 
ful railway-bridge,  while  the  stream  near  the  Turner  House  is  narrowed 
between  high,  rocky  banks  like  a western  canon.  It  is  said  that  the  envi- 
rons of  Skowhegan  furnish  fine  fishing  in  the  line  of  trout  and  pickerel, 
while  the  rural  scenery  is  bright  and  pleasing.  The  favorite  drive  is  to 
Norridgewock  (5  M.)  by  a fine  river-road,  returning  by  a river-road  on  the 
opposite  bank,  and  affording  beautiful  views  of  the  blue  Kennebec. 

Stages  run  from  Skowhegan  to  Moosehead  Lake,  50  M.  (see  Route  43) ; to  Har- 
mony, 20  M.  ; and  to  the  remote  forest-plantations  of  Flag-staff,  Dead  River,  and 
the  Forks. 

Norridgewock  (two  inns)  is  a beautiful  rural  town,  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Kennebec,  which  separates  its  two  villages.  At  the  N.  vil- 
lage, 5 M.  from  Skowhegan,  are  the  old  Somerset  County  buildings,  with 
a broad  river-side  street  on  which  stand  some  rare  and  immense  old  trees. 
The  river  is  here  crossed  by  a carriage-bridge  and  a fine  railway -bridge. 
5-6  M.  above  the  village,  and  near  the  confluence  of  the  Kennebec  and 
the  Sandy  Rivers,  is  Old  Point. 

At  Old  Point  was  the  chief  town  of  the  Canibas  Indians,  a powerful  tribe  of 
the  Abenaqui  nation.  As  early  as  1610  French  missionaries  from  Quebec  settled 
here,  and  in  1695  Sebastian  Rale,  a French  Jesuit,  came  from  Canada  and  be- 
came the  spiritual  and  (practically)  political  chief  of  the  tribe.  Rale  was  a 
man  of  high  culture,  and  had  been  Greek  professor  in  the  College  of  Nismes  (in 
S.  France).  He  prepared  a complete  dictionary  (now  at  Harvard  University)  of 
the  Abenaqui  language,  which  had  diminutives  and  augmentatives  like  the 
Italian,  and  was  “a  powerful  and  flexible  language,  — the  Greek  of  America.” 
While  the  colonial  government  policy  was  generally  equitable  and  fair  toward  the 
Indians,  frequent  gross  injuries  and  cruelties  were  inflicted  on  them  by  irrespon- 
sible English  adventurers.  Hence  a burning  sense  of  wrongs  endured  and  the 


294  Route  ^2.  PORTLAND  TO  THE  UPPER  KENNEBEC. 


loss  of  their  ancestral  lands  forced  the  Indians  into  a constant  state  of  'warlike 
fervor.  It  is  said  that  Father  Rale  had  a superb  consecrated  banner  floating 
before  his  church,  and  emblazoned  with  the  cross  and  a bow  and  sheaf  of  arrows. 
This  was  the  crusading  flag  borne  often  and  again  over  the  smoking  ruins  of 
Maine  and  N.  H.  villages.  In  1705  Norridgewock  was  destroyed  by  270  colonial 
soldiers,  who  marched  thither  swiftly  in  winter  by  the  aid  of  snow-shoes.  At  the 
close  of  Queen  Anne’s  War  (Peace  of  Utrecht)  the  Sachem  of  the  tribe  went  to 
Boston,  to  demand  workmen  to  rebuild  the  village-church,  and  an  indemnity  for 
the  destruction  of  the  houses.  Mass,  promised  both,  on  condition  that  Norridge- 
wock would  accept  a Puritan  pastor,  but  the  Sachem  refused  the  condition.  The 
Indians  soon  restored  their  homes,  and  suffered  another  plundering  raid  in  1722, 
for  which  the  coast  of  Maine  paid  dearly.  In  1724  it  was  seen  that  the  tribe 
must  be  driven  away  before  the  coast-towns  could  be  held  securely,  and  in  Au- 
gust of  that  year  an  atrocious  attack  was  made  on  Norridghwock  by  208  colonial 
soldiers  from  Fort  Richmond.  So  carefully  was  the  advance  guarded  by  Har- 
mon’s Rangers  and  a company  of  Mohawks,  that  the  village  was  surrounded,  and 
the  first  intimation  of  the  presence  of  the  colonials  was  conveyed  in  a shower  of 
bullets  which  swept  through  the  streets.  Some  of  the  Indians  escaped  through 
the  thin  environing  lines,  but  all  who  remained  in  the  wigwams  — men,  women, 
and  children  — were  massacred. 

“ The  noise  and  tumult  gave  Pere  Rale  notice  of  the  danger  his  converts  were 
in,  and  he  fearlessly  showed  himself  to  the  enemy,  hoping  to  draw  all  their  atten- 
tion to  himself,  and  to  secure  the  safety  of  his  flock  at  the  peril  of  his  life.  He 
was  not  disappointed.  As  soon  as  he  appeared,  the  English  set  up  a great  shout, 
which  was  followed  by  a shower  of  shot,  when  he  fell  dead  near  to  the  cross  which 
he  had  erected  in  the  midst  of  the  village.  Seven  chiefs,  who  sheltered  his  body 
with  their  own,  fell  around  him.  Thus  did  this  kind  shepherd  give  his  life  for  his 
sheep,  after  a painful  mission  of  37  years.”  (Charlevoix.)  When  the  fragment 
of  the  tribe  re-entered  the  ruined  village,  they  found  Rale’s  body,  horribly  muti- 
lated, at  the  foot  of  the  mission  cross.  “After  his  converts  had  raised  up  and 
oftentimes  kissed  the  precious  remains,  so  tenderly  and  so  justly  beloved  by  them, 
they  buried  him  in  the  same  place  where  he  had,  the  evening  before,  celebrated 
the  sacred  mysteries,  namely,  the  spot  where  the  altar  stood  before  the  church 
was  burnt.”  ( Histoire  Generate  de  Nouvelle  France.1)  Bishop  Fenwick,  of  Bos- 
ton, erected  a granite  obelisk  on  the  site  of  the  church  in  1833.  After  lying  deso- 
late for  half  a century,  Norridgewock  was  settled  by  the  whites  in  1773. 

Starks  (Clifton  House)  is  a farming  town  10  M.  N.  W.  of  Norridgewock, 
with  tri-weekly  stages  to  Farmington,  13  M.  W.  (see  Route  41).  On  the 
main  stage-route  (to  the  Forks)  Anson  is  N.  of  Starks,  and  is  a consider- 
able, though  failing  village,  with  3 small  hotels  and  about  1,700  inhabi- 
tants. Eribden  is  a large  but  thinly  settled  town  across  the  river  from 
Solon  (inn),  a decadent  town  near  Carritunk  Falls,  where  the  Kennebec 
narrows  from  480  ft.  wide  to  40  ft.,  and  falls  about  20  ft.  The  stage- 
route  passes  through  Solon,  Bingham,  Moscow,  and  Carritunk,  to  The 
Forks , a forest-village  of  about  150  inhabitants,  45  M.  N.  W.  of  Skow- 
hegan. 

Mposeliead  Lake  is  25  - 30  M.  N.  E.  of  The  Forks,  up  the  Kennebec.  The  great 
Canada  road  (now  but  little  used)  runs  N.  W.  from  The  Forks  through  the  forest 
to  Taschereau,  a Canadian  border-village,  50  - 60  M.  distant.  Thence  the  road 
follows  the  valleys  of  the  Rivieres  du  Loup  and  Chaudiere,  through  Liniere,  Au- 
bert  Callion,  Vaudreuil,  St.  Joseph,  St.  Marie,  St.  Etienne,  and  Lauzon,  to  Quebec, 
more  than  180  M.  from  The  Forks. 

There  is  a stage-route  from  Skowhegan  to  Dead  River  and  Flag-staff  Plantations 
to  the  E.  and  N.  of  Mt.  Bigelow,  about  40  M.  N.  W.  of  Skowhegan. 


1 See  also  Whittier’s  poem  “ Mogg  Megone." 


BOSTON  TO  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE.  Route  43.  295 


43.  Boston  or  Portland  to  Moosehead  Lake. 

(a. ) By  Skowliegan  (Route  42),  whence  daily  stages  run  (in  summer)  to 
the  Lake.  Distance,  50  M.  ; fare  on  the  stage,  $3.50.  This  route  passes 
through  seven  sparsely  populated  farming  towns,  with  the  aggregate  num- 
ber of  3,722  inhabitants. 

(5.)  By  Dexter  (see  Route  46  or  47  to  Newport,  whence  a branch  rail- 
way runs  N.  in  15  M.  to  Dexter).  Dexter  ( Merchants'  Exchange ; 
Dexter  House)  is  a prosperous  village  in  a town  of  nearly  3,000  inhabi- 
tants, with  woollen  and  other  manufactories  on  the  water-power  given  by 
the  outlet  of  a large  hill-pond.  The  town  was  settled  in  1801,  and  has  a 
savings-bank,  a weekly  paper,  and  5 churches.  The  stage  leaves  Dexter 
in  the  morning,  and  passes  through  the  thinly  settled  farming  towns  of 
Sangerville,  Guilford,  Abbott,  Monson,  and  Shirley.  The  views  of  Mon- 
son  Pond  from  Doughty’s  Hill,  of  Mt.  Katahdin  in  the  N.  E.,  of  the  Lake 
from  the  heights  above  Greenville,  and  of  the  Mts.  of  Abbott  and  Monson, 
render  this  a very  picturesque  route.  (Seats  on  the  outside  of  the  stage 
afford  the  best  view. ) 

Tickets  from  Boston  to  Mt.  Kineo  and  return  (good  for  several  weeks)  by  this 
route,  may  be  bought  for  $15.00,  at  134  Washington  St.,  Boston.  Passengers 
leaving  the  Eastern  R.  R.  station  in  Boston,  at  8 p.  m.,  or  the  Maine  Central  sta- 
tion in  Portland  at  12.30  a.  m.,  arrive  at  Mt.  Kineo  at  6 o’clock  next  evening  (time 
table  of  1872). 

(c.)  By  Bangor.  By  sleeping-car  on  the  night-express  to  Bangor, 
arriving  at  7 a.  M.  and  breakfasting,  then  leaving  for  Guilford  on  the 
Bangor  and  Piscataquis  R.  R. , at  8 A.  m. 

( d . ) By  steamer  from  Boston  to  Bangor  (Route  48),  and  thence  as  in 
(c).  By  this  route  48  hrs.  are  required  to  get  from  Boston  to  the  Lake. 
By  either  of  the  two  last-named  routes,  the  Bangor  and  Piscataquis  R.  R. 
is  taken  to  Guilford.  This  line  follows  Route  49  to  Oldtown,  where  it 
diverges  to  the  N.  W.  and  crosses  the  towns  of  Alton,  Lagrange,  Orneville, 
and  Milo,  to  S.  Sebec.  Stages  run  thence  (6  M.  ; 50  c. ) to  Sebec,  at  the  foot 
of  Sebec  Lake,  a beautiful  sheet  of  water  12  M.  long.  The  steamer  te  Rip- 
pling Wave  ” runs  daily  down  to  the  Lake  House , a summer-hotel  on  a 
plateau  near  Granite  Mt.,  in  Bowerbank  (leaving  Sebec  at  7.15  a.  m.,  and 
the  Lake  House  at  4 p.  m.  ; fare,  50  c.).  There  is  good  fishing  from 
birch  canoes  and  skiffs  out  on  the  lake,  and  picturesque  mt.  scenery  on 
the  shores.  The  Ebeme  Mts.  are  N.  of  Sebec. 

7 M.  beyond  S.  Sebec  is  the  station,  Dover  and  Foxcroft,  between  two 
villages  on  the  Piscataquis  River.  Dover  (good  inn)  has  nearly  2,000  in- 
habitants, and  is  the  shire-town  of  the  forest  County  of  Piscataquis,  which, 
with  3,780  square  miles  of  territory,  has  but  14,397  inhabitants.  Fox- 
croft (N.  of  the  track)  has  1,200  inhabitants,  and  a daily  stage  runs  thence 
to  Stedman’s  Landing  (5  M.),  connecting  with  the  Sebec  Lake  steamer. 


296  Route  43. 


MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 


The  train  passes  on  8 M.  farther,  to  Guilford  ( Turner  House)  61  M. 
from  Bangor.  The  stage-route  to  Moosehead  Lake  leads  thence  for  23  M. 
over  the  same  road  as  that  from  Dexter. 

Moosehead  Lake. 

Greenville  ( Lake  House;  Eveleth  House)  is  a small  farming  village  on  the  S.  shore, 
and  about  5 M.  W.  of  Wilson  Pond,  which  is  famed  for  its  trout.  Here  may  be 
seen  many  lumbermen,—  Americans,  Indians,  and  Canadian  and  Acadian  French- 
men,— rude  and  stalwart  foresters.  “ Maine  has  two  classes  of  warriors  among 
its  sons, — fighters  of  forest  and  fighters  of  seas.  Braves  must  join  one  or  the 
other  army.  The  two  are  close  allies.” 

Moosehead  Lake  is  35  M.  long,  from  4 to  12  M.  wide,  and  contains  220 
square  miles.  It  is  1,023  ft.  above  the  sea,  to  which  its  waters  pass  by 
the  Kennebec  River.  The  shores  are  monotonous  and  uncultivated,  save 
where  Mt.  Kineo  runs  out  into  the  lake,  though  distant  mts.  on  either 
side  give  variety  to  the  view.  Except  Greenville,  at  the  S.  end,  there  are 
no  towns,  plantations,  or  permanent  settlements  on  these  lonely  shores. 
The  fishing  (trout,  &c. ) in  these  waters  and  in  the  neighboring  streams  is 
the  grand  attraction,  though  the  moose-hunting  has  wellnigh  passed 
away.  In  May,  June,  and  early  July  the  black  fly  is  an  unendurable 
annoyance,  and  city  men  should  avoid  the  forest  in  that  season. 

Steamers  leave  Greenville  daily  for  Mt.  Kineo.  Passing  out  of  the  long, 
deep  cove  in  which  the  village  is  situated,  the  Squaw  Mt.  is  seen  on  the 
1.  and  the  steamer  runs  N.  between  Deer  Island  on  the  1.  and  Sugar  Island 
on  the  r.  E.  of  the  latter  is  Lilly  Cove,  strewn  with  romantic  islets  and 
surrounded  by  mts.  Beyond  Sugar  Island  the  great  bay  is  seen  to  the  S. 
W.,  through  which  the  Kennebec  flows  outward  toward  the  sea,  while 
Spencer  Bay  opens  to  the  N.  E.,  with  Spencer  Mt.  (4,000  ft.  high)  at  its 
head.  Katahdin  may  be  seen  to  the  N.  E.  on  a clear  day.  The  bold 
bluffs  of  Kineo  are  now  seen  ahead,  and  the  steamer  stops  near  its  base 
and  close  by  the  hotel.  The  Kineo  House  is  situated  here  (on  a peninsula 
which  runs  from  the  E.  shore  to  within  1 M.  of  the  W.  shore),  and  is  a 
well-kept  house,  much  frequented  by  Bostonians,  and  famed  for  its  trout. 
The  Blue  Ridge  lies  W.  of  Kineo,  and  Brassua  Lake,  about  6 M.  distant 
in  that  direction,  is  much  visited  by  fishing-parties. 

Mt.  Kineo  is  very  near  the  hotel,  and  is  6-700  ft.  above  the  lake,  with 
a vast,  sheer  precipice  of  purple  flint  running  down  to  the  water,  and  for 
over  1,000  ft.  below.  The  mt.  is  quickly  ascended  (with  a guide),  and 
reveals  a fine  view  of  the  Lake,  with  Squaw  Mt.  on  the  S. , the  Blue  Ridge  on 
the  W.,  the  Spencer  and  Lilly  Cove  Mts.  on  the  S.  E.,  and  Katahdin  on  the 
N.  E.  The  sandy  beaches  near  the  slopes  of  the  mt.  afford  pleasant  rambles. 

At  16-18M.  N.  of  Mt.  Kineo,  over  the  desolate-shored  North  Bay,  the  end  of  the 
Lake  is  reached,  and  a well-travelled  portage  of  2 M.  leads  across  to  the  Penobscot 
River.  This  river  may  be  descended  in  a birch-canoe  well  guided  (passing  several 
rapids)  to  Chesuncook  Lake,  20  - 30  M.  N.  E.  Plain  forest-fare  and  rude  forest- 
life  must  be  encountered  here.  Chesuncook  is  about  20  M.  long  and  1 - 3 M.  wide. 


PORTLAND  TO  ROCKLAND.  Route  44.  297 


ancl  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  large  Lakes,  Caucomgomuc  and  Caucomgomosis,  and  the 
Allagash  chain  of  lakes,  the  southernmost  and  largest  of  which  is  Apmogenagu- 
mook.  Beyond  Chesuncook  (S.  E.)  Ripogenus  Lake  is  traversed,  then  ensues  a 3 
M.  portage,  and  then  the  river  is  descended  for  many  leagues  to  Pemadumcook 
Lake,  with  Mt.  Katahdin  boldly  prominent  on  the  N.  E.  and  N.  This  mt.  is  some- 
times ascended  with  the  canoe-guides,  from  the  river,  — a long  and  arduous 
journey.  From  Pemadumcook  the  widening  river  (more  properly  the  W.  branch 
of  the  Penobscot)  may  be  followed  to  Mattawainkeag  or  Oldtown. 

Good  guides,  a supply  of  provisions,  and  strong  clothing  are  requisite  for  this 
tour,  which  requires  7-10  days,  from  Greenville  to  Oldtown.  (See  a vigorous 
account  of  this  route  by  Theodore  Winthrop,  “Life  in  the  Open  Air,”  Chaps. 
VI.  -XV.  ; also  Thoreau’s  “Maine  Woods.”) 


44.  Portland  to  Rockland. 

By  the  Maine  Central  and  Knox  and  Lincoln  Railways,  in  98  M.  The 
train  leaves  the  Portland  and  Kennebec  station  in  Portland  and  passes 
over  Route  47  to  Brunswick.  Stages  run  thence  to  Harpswell  and  Orr’s 
Island.  A few  miles  beyond  Brunswick,  the  train  reaches  Bath  (*  Sagada- 
hoc House  ; Bath  Hotel),  a decadent  old  maritime  city  situated  on  the 
Kennebec  River,  12  M.  from  the  sea.  Bath  has  7,380  inhabitants,  with  a 
valuation  of  $ 6,400,000,  7 banks,  and  a daily  paper.  It  was  formerly 
the  fourth  city  in  the  republic  in  the  shipbuilding  business,  and  grew  in 
wealth  and  prosperity  until  the  decline  of  American  commerce.  This 
branch  of  industry  was  founded  here  in  1762,  and  was  favored  by  the  fa- 
cility with  which  the  best  ship  timber  was  floated  down  the  Kennebec  from 
the  northern  forests.  In  1853  and  1854  the  tonnage  built  here  amounted 
to  107,854.  The  city  has  a fine  harbor,  rarely  embarrassed  with  ice,  and 
deep  enough  for  the  largest  ships.  The  streets  are  irregular  in  their 
contour,  and  the  settled  district  extends  for  over  3 M.  along  the  W.  bank 
of  the  river,  being  only  about  J M.  wide.  The  river  at  this  point  is  over 
J M.  in  width,  and  is  rapid  and  deep.  There  is  a neat  Government 
building  here,  also  the  Sagadahoc  County  buildings. 

The  site  of  Bath  was  first  visited  by  Capt.  Weymouth  in  1605.  It  was  bought 
from  Robin  Hood,  an  Indian  chief,  by  Rev.  Robert  Gutch,  of  Salem,  who  lived 
here  from  1660  to  1679.  The  growth  of  the  settlement  was  very  slow  until  the 
close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  when  an  active  lumber  and  shipping  trade  sprang 
up,  which  was  but  momentarily  injured  by  the  Embargo  and  the  War  of  1812. 
From  causes  which  are  national  rather  than  local,  Bath’s  leading  industry  has 
been  checked,  and  the  city  is  going  quietly  down  hill  with  the  other  small  mari- 
time cities  of  New  England. 

Stages  run  daily  to  Arrowsic  and  Georgetown.  Steamers  run  to  Phipsburg, 
Georgetown,  Arrowsic,  Boothbay,  Pemaquid,  and  Waldoboro. 

The  long  peninsulas  and  narrow  parallel  islands  which  run  into  the  salt  water 
below  Bath  are  very  interesting  in  a historical  point  of  view.  Arrowsic  is  an 
island  town  with  about  250  inhabitants,  on  20,000  acres  of  land,  much  of  which  is 
salt-marsh.  This  island  was  settled  and  fortified  in  1661,  and  its  settlement  was 
destroyed  by  an  Indian  raid  in  1723.  In  another  midnight  attack,  50  houses  were 
burnt,  and  35  persons  were  killed  and  captured  in  the  fort,  which  was  stormed  in 
the  darkness.  Months  after,  a detachment  of  soldiers  landed  to  bury  the  dead, 
but  were  ambushed  and  rudely  handled.  Georgetown  is  an  island  town  below 
Arrowsic,  with  similar  annals  of  early  adventure.  mPhipsburg  is  a long  peninsula, 
stretching  for  about  12  M.  from  Bath  to  Bald  Head  Cape,  bounded,  on  the  W.  by 
13  * 


298  Route  ^ 


WOOLWICH. 


Quohog  Bay,  and  on  the  E.  by  the  widenings  of  the  Kennebec.  The  Huguenot  chief, 
De  Monts,  planted  the  cross  here  in  1604,  and  in  1607  Sir  George  Popham  and 
Raleigh  Gilbert  (nephew  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh)  came  here  with  2 ships  and  100 
men.  “ They  sayled  up  into  the  river  neere  40  leagues,  and  found  yt  to  be  a very 
gallant  river,  very  deepe,”  and  then  returned  to  this  peninsula,  where  they  landed 
and  celebrated  the  service  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  assembled  around  their  chap- 
lain. This  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  Christian  service  in  New  England.  A 
line  of  cabins  and  a church  were  built,  and  Fort  St.  George  was  raised  for  their 
protection.  After  a quarrel  between  the  colonists  and  Indians,  the  latter  got 
possession  of  the  fort,  and  plundered  it ; but  having  scattered  around  several  bar- 
rels of  powder  (being  ignorant  of  its  qualities),  it  caught  fire  and  exploded,  de- 
stroying the  fort  and  the  Indians.  The  remaining  aborigines,  interpreting  the 
fatal  explosion  as  a Divine  punishment,  hastened  to  be  reconciled  with  the  colo- 
nists, whom  they  supplied  with  food  all  winter.  The  intense  cold  of  the  winter 
of  1607  - 8,  the  destruction  of  their  stores,  the  dubious  favor  of  the  Indians,  and 
the  death  of  Popham  and  other  leaders  caused  the  colony  to  break  up  in  the 
spring  and  return  to  England,  having  “found  nothing  but  extreme  extremity.” 
The  peninsula  was  resettled  in  1716  by  the  Pejepscot  proprietors,  who  erected 
here  a stone  fort  100  ft.  square,  made  houses  and  roads,  and  established  a line  of 
communication  by  sea  with  Boston.  A few  years  later  it  was  destroyed  by  a sud- 
den Indian  attack,  and  the  fort  was  demolished.  The  peninsula  was  again  settled 
in  1737,  and  in  1814  was  incorporated,  and  named  in  honor  of  Sir  William  Phips. 
The  town  has  1,344  inhabitants,  largely  engaged  in  fishing  and  shipbuilding,  and 
its  shores  are  rugged  and  irregular,  Seguin  Island  lies  off  shore  to  the  S.  There 
are  one  or  two  small  summer  boarding-houses  on  the  peninsula. 

The  3d  Maine  Regiment,  in  the  Secession  War,  was  raised  in  the  Kennebec 
Valley,  between  Phipsburg  and  Skowhegan.  It  was  one  of  the  bratest  regiments 
in  the  army,  was  engaged  in  nearly  all  the  great  Virginian  battles,  and  at  Gettys- 
burg alone  lost  113  men.  Howard  was  its  first  colonel. 


At  Bath  the  through  cars  for  Rockland  are  taken  across  the  Kennebec 
River  on  a large  steam  ferry-boat,  and  run  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Knox 
and  Lincoln  Railroad  at  Woolwich , on  the  farther  shore.  This  town  was 
settled  in  1638  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Nequasset,  and  was  depopulated 
by  an  attack  in  1676.  50  years  later  it  was  resettled,  and  in  1759  was  in- 

corporated as  Woolwich,  so  named  from  a resemblance  of  the  Kennebec 
River  at  this  point  to  the  English  Thames  at  Woolwich. 

William  Phips  was  born  at  Woolwich  in  1651,  and  was  a shepherd  on  its  rocky 
hills.  Learning  how  to  read  and  write,  and  then  acquiring  the  art  of  ship-car- 
pentering, he  rose  in  consideration  and  influence.  In  1684  he  sailed  from  London 
in  a war  vessel,  to  attempt  the  recovery  of  the  gold  from  a sunken  Spanish  treas- 
ure-ship near  the  Bahamas.  The  quest  was  unsuccessful,  but  in  1687  he  suc- 
ceeded in  recovering  from  the  wreck  $1,500,000  in  jewels  and  bars  of  gold  and 
silver.  He  was  knighted  by  the  king,  and  received  $ 80,000  of  the  treasure.  He 
commanded  the  expedition  which  took  Port  Royal  from  the  French,  and  from  1692 
to  1694  he  was  Gov.  of  Mass.  In  1694  he  died  suddenly  at  London,  where  he  had 
gone  to  render  an  account  of  his  government.  His  activity,  bravery,  and  enter- 
prise enabled  him  to  rise  from  the  tasks  of  an  unlettered  shepherd  on  the  Wool- 
wich hills  to  the  governorship  of  the  chief  British  province  in  America. 

Beyond  Woolwich  the  train  passes  the  country  stations  of  Nequasset 
and  Montsweag,  and  then  stops  at  Wiscasset  (Hilton  House),  a maritime 
town  on  the  Sheepscot  River,  12  M.  from  the  sea.  It  has  1,978  inhabi- 
tants, 2 banks,  and  a weekly  paper  (the  “ Seaside  Oracle  ”).  The  widen- 
ings of  the  river  opposite  Wiscasset  afford  a broad  and  capacious  harbor, 
with  12  - 20  fathoms  of  water,  and  but  rarely  troubled  with  ice.  It  was 


PEMAQUID. 


Route  U.  299 


once  talked  of  for  a U.  S.  naval  station.  This  town  was  laid  under  con- 
tribution by  the  British  sloop-of-war  “ Rainbow,”  during  the  Revolution. 
Its  palmiest  days  were  between  1780  and  1806,  when  the  maritime  trade 
was  very  extensive,  and  many  leagues  of  back  country  were  dependent  on 
it  for  supplies.  This  prosperity  was  ruined  by  the  Embargo  and  the  War 
of  1812,  and  Wiscasset  is  now  only  a pleasant  village,  fading  slowly  from 
its  picturesque  hills. 

Daily  stages  run  from  Wiscasset  to  Boothbay  (two  inns),  9 M.  S.,  another  of  the 
ancient  peninsular  towns.  It  was  visited  by  Weymouth  in  1605  ; settled  in  1630  ; 
destroyed  in  1688  ; and  resettled  in  1730.  Its  fine  harbor  was  chosen  for  a naval 
station  by  the  British  government  about  1770,  but  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary War  prevented  national  works  from  being  constructed.  The  town  has 
3,200  inhabitants,  who  are  mostly  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  the  coasting  trade,  and 
in  shipbuilding.  The  village  is  very  attractive,  with  islands  in  front  guarding 
the  noble  harbor,  in  which,  during  long  storms,  4 - 500  sail  of  fishing  vessels 
sometimes  take  refuge.  Many  summer  visitors  rest  at  Boothbay,  which  is  reached 
also  by  steamer  from  Bath.  The  steamer  touches,  en  route,  at  Southport  (Rose- 
wood Cottage),  an  insular  town  inhabited  by  fishermen.  The  S.  extremity  of 
this  island  is  Cape  Newagen,  whence  the  Damariscove  Islands  are  seen  on  the  E. 
Westport  is  another  insular  town,  11  M.  long,  to  the  W.  of  Boothbay,  and  inhab- 
ited by  fishermen. 

Beyond  Wiscasset  the  train  passes  to  the  station,  Newcastle  and  Dam- 
ariscotta.  A considerable  settlement  was  made  at  Newcastle  early  in 
the  17th  century,  as  is  evinced  by  the  traces  still  seen.  It  was  probably 
destroyed  by  the  French,  and  its  memory  has  faded  from  history.  Many 
years  after  this  colony  fell,  another  was  established,  which  was  destroyed 
in  King  Philip’s  War.  A third  settlement  on  the  same  site  was  destroyed 
in  1688,  and  the  land  lay  desolate  for  30  years.  The  town  now  contains 
1,729  inhabitants,  mostly  engaged  in  manufacturing.  Damariscotta  (Elm 
House  ; Maine  Hotel)  was  settled  in  1640,  and  was  a frontier  post  of  the 
old  Pemaquid  Patent.  It  was  often  assailed  by  the  Indians,  and  twice  or 
thrice  was  abandoned.  It  was  named  for  Damarine,  Sachem  of  Sagada- 
# hoc  (called  Robin  Hood  by  the  English),  and  now  is  generally  spoken  of, 
in  the  country-side,  as  “Scottie.”  It  has  1,334  inhabitants,  and  ship- 
building is  the  chief  industry.  The  Damariscotta  River  separates  it  from 
Newcastle. 

Stages  run  to  Aina,  Pittston,  and  Gardiner  ; to  Jefferson  and  Augusta  ; to  Bris- 
tol and  Pemaquid.  Bristol  is  a territorially  large  town,  embracing  nearly  all  the 
peninsula  between  the  Damariscotta  River  and  Muscongus  Bay.  It  has  about 
3,000  inhabitants,  and  at  the  village  of  Round  Pond  are  extensive  oil-works. 

Pemaquid. 

On  and  near  a rocky  promontory  in  the  extreme  S.  of  Bristol  is  the  site  of  the 
ancient  colony  of  Pemaquid,  than  which  no  locality  in  New  England  has  more  of 
historic  charm.  The  Maine  Historical  Society  has  explored  these  deserted  shores, 
and  the  site  and  ruins  of  Fort  Frederick  have  been  secured  for  a monument  to  be 
erected  in  honor  of  the  pioneers. 

Capt.  Weymouth  visited  Pemaquid  in  1605,  and  kidnapped  several  Indians.  10 
years  later  a furious  war  broke  out  between  the  Tarratine  Indians  and  the  Bashaba 
or  Chief  of  the  Western  Maine  tribes.  The  Bashaba  and  his  family  and  council- 


300  Route  44- 


WALDOBORO. 


lors  were  put  to  death  by  a daring  inroad  of  the  Tarratines,  but  the  tribes  had 
become  greatly  reduced  by  the  war  and  an  ensuing  pestilence.  The  Wawenocks 
(fear-naughts)  occupied  the  peninsulas  about  Pemaquid,  but  were  so  reduced  in 
strength  as  to  be  unable  to  prevent  colonization.  In  1630  it  is  said  that  a fort 
was  erected  here,  and  in  1631  the  Pemaquid  Patent  was  granted  to  two  merchants 
of  Bristol.  In  1632  the  pirate  Dixey  Bull  entered  the  harbor,  plundered  the 
village,  and  carried  away  the  vessels.  Massachusetts  sent  ail  armed  ship  against 
him,  but  he  was  taken  by  a royal  cruiser,  and  executed  (probably)  at  London  in 
1635.  In  1648  all  this  region  was  formed  into  a “Ducal  State,”  and  made  an  ap- 
panage of  James,  Duke  of  York  (afterwards  King  James  II.).  No  religious  service 
but  the  Anglican  was  allowed.  In  1635,  the  16-gun  brig  “Angel  Gabriel”  was 
wrecked  here,  and  in  1674  Sir  Edmund  Andros  built  Fort  Charles,  brought  in 
many  Dutch  immigrants,  and  named  the  place  Jamestown.  It  had  then  three 
long,  paved  streets,  with  several  cross-streets,  and  was  called  “ the  metropolis  of 
New  England.”  The  Indians  remained  tranquil  during  King  Philip’s  War,  until 
they  had  suffered  grave  affronts  from  the  colonists,  when  they  swept  down  on 
Pemaquid  and  utterly  destroyed  it.  Many  of  the  people  escaped  in  boats  to  Mon- 
hegan,  an  island  far  out  in  the  sea.  In  1678  the  place  was  reoccupied,  and  in 
1689  it  was  again  destroyed  by  the  Tarratines,  the  3 captains  of  the  garrison 
having  been  killed.  The  point  was  reoccupied  by  850  Mass,  troops,  and  in  1692 
Sir  William  Phips  erected  a stone  fort  here,  mounting  18  guns,  and  called  the 
strongest  on  the  continent.  This  was  named  Fort  William  Henry,  and  soon 
repulsed  an  attack  by  2 French  36-gun  frigates.  In  1693  13  Tarratine  and  Penob- 
scot chiefs  submitted  at  the  settlement,  and  the  village  grew  rapidly.  In  1696 
Iberville  (having  defeated  an  English  fleet  on  the  coast)  attacked  the  place  with  a 
fleet  bearing  several  hundred  French  regulars,  some  Mic-Mac  Indians,  and  2C0 
Tarratines  under  Baron  de  Castine.  After  bombarding  Fort  William  Henry  from 
batteries  on  the  opposite  point  and  from  the  fleet,  a breach  was  made  and  the 
fort  was  taken.  The  settlement  was  plundered  and  ruined,  and  the  surviving 
inhabitants  were  led  into  captivity.  It  was  soon  settled  again,  and  when  Mass, 
took  possession  of  Maine  its  people  begged  that  Pemaquid  might  ‘ ‘ remain  the 
metropolitan  of  these  parts,  because  it  ever  have  been  so  before  Boston  was 
settled.”  In  1724  the  ruined  fort  was  somewhat  repaired  to  defend  the  people  in 
Lovewell’s  War,  and  in  1730  it  was  rebuilt  under  the  name  of  Fort  Frederick,  by 
Col.  Dunbar,  surveyor  of  the  King’s  woods  in  America.  This  officer  had  a fine 
mansion  here,  and  laid  out  a new  city,  but  was  soon  relieved  on  account  of  his 
arbitrary  acts,  and  was  made  Gov.  of  St.  Helena.  Fort  Frederick  was  attacked  in 
1745,  and  in  1747  it  was  assaulted  by  a French  force,  which  was  repulsed  with 
heavy  loss.  The  fort  was  destroyed  by  the  people  in  the  Revolutionary  War,  lest 
it  should  become  a British  post.  In  1813  a sharp  naval  battle  occurred  off  Pema- 
quid Point,  when  the  American  brig  “ Enterprise  ” was  attacked  by  the  British 
brig  “ Boxer.”  After  a conflict  of  48  minutes  the  “Boxer”  surrendered,  having 
suffered  severe  losses.  In  1814  the  place  was  attacked  by  275  men  in  boats  from 
the  frigate  “ Maidstone,”  who  were  repulsed  with  such  severe  loss  that  the 
captain  of  the  frigate  was  discharged  from  the  British  navy. 

Ancient  fortifications,  streets,  cellars,  wharves,  and  cemeteries  are  found  all 
over  the  Point,  and  many  remarkable  antiquities  may  be  shown  by  the  farmers 
near  the  now  deserted  point. 

“ The  restless  sea  resounds  along  the  shore. 

The  light  land-breeze  flows  outward  with  a sigh, 

And  each  to  each  seems  chanting  evermore 
A mournful  memory  of  the  days  gone  by. 

Here,  where  they  lived,  all  holy  thoughts  revive, 

Of  patient  striving  and  of  faith  held  fast ; 

Here,  where  they  died,  their  buried  records  live. 

Silent  they  speak  from  out  the  shadowy  past.” 

Pemaquid:  a ballad. 


After  leaving  Damariscotta  the  line  passes  through  Xobleborougli  (3 
stations)  to  Waldoboro  (Medomack  House),  which  was  settled  by  1,500 
Germans  in  1753  - 4.  Their  descendants  still  remain  in  the  town,  which 
has  over  4,000  inhabitants.  Station,  Warren,  a shipbuilding  town,  whicli 


ROCKLAND. 


B,oute  44.  301 


was  settled  by  Scotch-Irish  in  1736.  Station  Thomaston  ( Knox  House  ; 
Georges  House),  situated  on  a deep  narrow  harbor,  and  containing  the 
Maine  State  Prison.  The  prison  was  established  in  1824,  and  up  to  1872, 
1,100  convicts  had  served  their  time  out,  390  had  been  pardoned,  18  had 
escaped,  and  in  that  year  128  convicts  remained  within  its  walls. 

In  1720  a fort  was  built  here  (near  the  present  railway-station),  and  garrisoned 
and  armed  with  cannon  by  Mass.  It  was  furiously  attacked  by  the  Tarratine  In- 
dians in  1722,  and,  an  assault  led  by  French  monks  having  been  disastrously  re- 
pulsed, a mine  was  dug.  This  work  was  so  unscientifically  done  that  it  fell  in 
on  the  besiegers,  who  retired  in  confusion.  In  midwinter  of  1723  it  was  again 
beleaguered  vainly  for  30  days,  and  in  1724  it  was  attacked  by  a fleet  of  22  vessels 
(captured  fishermen).  A sharp  naval  skirmish  was  fought  with  colonial  relief- 
ships,  which  were  forced  to  retire,  greatly  damaged  by  the  Indian  artillery.  But 
the  fort  still  held  out  and  repulsed  every  attack,  and  stood  until  the  Revolution, 
when  it  was  demolished  by  the  British.  Gen.  Waldo  (who  died  in  1759)  obtained 
possession  of  the  Museongus  Patent,  embracing  a tract  of  30  M.  wide  on  each 
side  of  the  Penobscot,  and  settled  the  peninsulas  with  Germans  and  Scotch-Irish. 
This  tract  came  into  possession  of  Gen.  Knox  through  his  wife,  who  was  the 
heiress  of  part  of  it,  and  about  1793  he  built  here  the  finest  mansion  in  Maine, 
and  lived  in  baronial  state,  entertaining  numerous  guests  with  splendid  hospi- 
tality. 

Henry  Knox  was  born  in  Boston  in  1750,  and  became  a skilful  military  en- 
gineer and  artillerist.  He  was  commander  of  the  artillery  of  the  Continental 
Arm}'',  engaged  in  most  of  the  important  battles  and  sieges  of  the  Revolution, 
and  was  Secretary  of  War  from  1785  to  1795.  He  originated  the  first  and  only 
order  of  American  chivalry,  the  Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  was  strongly  aristo- 
cratic in  his  tastes,  and  demanded  the  observance  of  the  etiquette  of  a palace  at 
his  manor  in  Thomaston.  The  Knox  mansion  stood  close  to  the  present  railway- 
station  (which  was  one  of  the  offices  of  the  estate),  and  was  demolished  in  1872. 

Stages  run  from  Thomaston  to  the  ancient  peninsular  towns  of  Cushing  and 
Friendship,  on  Museongus  Bay ; also  to  St.  George,  a historic  old  town,  which 
projects  into  the  sea,  and  is  near  the  islands  which  Weymouth  named  St.  George’s 
(in  1604).  Weymouth  set  up  a cross  (Anglican)  on  these  shores,  and  wrote,  “ I 
doubt  not  ....  it  will  prove  a very  flourishing  place  [Maine]  and  be  re- 
plenished with  many  faire  townes  and  cities,  it  being  a province  both  fruitful  and 
pleasant.”  In  1724,  16  soldiers  from  the  Thomaston  Fort,  led  by  Capt.  Winslow, 
were  ambushed  and  destroyed  among  St.  George’s  Islands,  and  in  1753  a strong 
stone  fort  was  built  on  this  peninsula. 

Beyond  Thomaston  the  train  soon  reaches  Rockland  ( Thorndike  Hotel), 
a city  of  7,000  inhabitants,  with  1 national  and  3 state  banks,  2 weekly 
papers,  and  8 churches.  The  city  is  pleasantly  situated  on  Owl’s  Head 
Bay,  S.  of  the  Camden  Mts.,  and  looks  out  on  Penobscot  Bay,  Ship- 
building is  carried  on  here,  but  the  chief  industry  is  lime-burning,  the 
city  having  80  kilns,  employing  1,000  men,  and  making  1,200,000  barrels 
yearly.  The  kilns  should  be  seen  by  night. 

Stages  run  to  S.  Thomaston  and  the  bold  cliffs  of  Owl’s  Head  ; to  St.  George  ; 
to  Augusta,  and  to  Camden  and  Belfast. 

Steamers  for  Bangor,  Portland,  Mt.  Desert,  and  Machias  touch  at  this  port. 

Dix  Island  is  a few  miles  from  Rockland,  and  is  a vast  mass  of  granite.  600 
men  worked  here  in  1872,  cutting  stone  for  the  New  York  Post  Office,  the  stones 
being  carved  and  numbered,  all  ready  to  swing  into  position.  The  immense 
monolithic  columns  of  the  U.  S.  Treasury  building  at  Washington  were  cut  here, 
and  the  vessels  load  directly  from  the  sides  of  the  ledges.  It  is  thought  that  this 
granite  is  unrivalled  for  beauty,  compactness,  and  uniformity. 

Nearly  half  of  the  valiant  Penobscot  regiment  (4th  Maine)  was  raised  at  Rock- 
land in  1861.  It  received  a stand  of  colors  from  the  ladies  of  New  York,  and  lost 


302  Route  45.  PORTLAND  TO  MOUNT  DESERT. 


Ill  men  at  the  Bull  Run  battles,  100  at  the  Fredericksburg  battles,  138  at  Gettys- 
burg, and  184  on  the  first  day  of  the  Wilderness  campaign.  316  of  its  members 
died  in  the  service.  Its  colonel,  H.  G.  Berry,  became  a major-general,  and  was 
killed  at  the  head  of  his  division  (2d,  of  the  3d  Corps)  at  the  battle  of  Chancel- 
lorsville. 


45.  Portland  to  Mount  Desert. 

In  stormy  weather  it  is  best  to  go  from  Portland  to  Rockland  by  rail  (Route  44), 
and  there  take  the  steamer.  Mt.  Desert  is  110  M.  N.  E.  of  Portland,  and  the  fare 
to  Bar  Harbor  is  $ 5.00. 

Passengers  leaving  Boston  by  Route  37  (Eastern  R.  R.)  at  6 p.  m.  Tuesday  or 
Friday,  will  reach  Portland  in  time  for  the  steamer,  which  leaves  at  10  p.  m.,  or 
on  the  arrival  of  the  train.  The  pier  is  near  the  station.  Fares  from  Boston  to 
Bar  Harbor,  or  Machiasport,  $6.00  ; to  Castine,  $4.00.  See  also  Route  48. 

The  t earner  “ Lewiston  ” leaves  Portland  at  10  P.  M.  and  passes  over 
ordinarily  quiet  waters,  outside  the  famous  peninsular  towns  of  Sagada- 
hoc and  Lincoln  Counties,  to  Rockland,  which  is  reached  at  5 a.  M.  The 
tourist  should  arise  as  early  as  possible,  to  enjoy  the  scenery  of  Penob- 
scot Bay.  Leaving  Rockland,  with  Owl’s  Head  on  the  r.  and  the  pictur- 
esque Camden  Hills  on  the  1.,  the  steamer  crosses  the  broad  Penobscot 
Bay,  between  the  insular  towns  of  Islesborough  and  Vinalhaven,  and  at 
about  7 A.  M.  reaches  Castine  (two  inns).  This  is  a pretty  village  on  a 
narrow  peninsula  projecting  into  the  bay,  and  its  history  is  of  great 
interest. 

Castine. 

This  peninsula  was  called  Pentagoet,  and  was  taken  by  the  Plymouth  Com- 
pany for  a trading-post.  There  was  a Puritan  fort  here  in  1626,  and  at  a later 
day  the  place  was  taken  by  the  fleet  of  D’Aulney,  who  had  been  sent  out  by  Car- 
dinal Richelieu  and  Razilla,  to  recover  Acadia.  D’Aulney  built  strong  fortifica- 
tions here,  and  withstood  a long  bombardment  from  two  Mass,  ships  under  Capt. 
Girling.  The  next  few  years  are  made  romantic  by  the  wars  of  the  rival  feudal  lords, 
D’Aulney  and  La  Tour,  the  one  Catholic  and  the  other  Huguenot,  in  which  Pen- 
tagoet and  St.  John  suffered  repeated  sieges  and  attacks.  In  1674  a Dutch  fleet 
took  Pentagoet  after  suffering  some  losses.  In  1667  Vincent,  Baron  de  St.  Cas- 
tin,  formerly  colonel  of  the  Royal  Carignan  Regiment,  and  the  lord  of  Oleron,  in 
the  French  Pyrenees,  came  to  Pentagoet,  married  the  daughter  of  Madockawando, 
the  Sachem  of  the  Tarratines,  and  became  the  apostle  of  Catholicism  among  the 
tribes,  who  revered  him  more  than  his  creed.  In  1688  Sir  Edmund  Andros, 
with  the  “ Rose  ” frigate,  plundered  the  settlement,  and  St.  Castin  was  ever  after 
a bold  enemy  of  Mass.  In  1696  he  led  his  Indians  in  Iberville’s  fleet  against 
Pemaquid,  which  he  destroyed.  After  living  here  for  30  years,  he  fought  in  the 
Nova  Scotia  campaigns  of  1706-7,  and  then  returned  to  France.  His  son  by  the 
Tarratine  princess  became  chief  of  the  Penobscot  tribes,  and  was  a peaceful, 
brave,  and  magnanimous  gentleman,  who  ruled  his  wild  subjects  successfully 
until  1721,  when  he  was  led  prisoner  to  Boston.  He  usually  wore  the  Indian 
costume,  but  sometimes  appeared  in  a superb  French  uniform.  In  1722  he  went 
to  France,  and  took  possession  of  his  father’s  property,  honors,  and  seigniorial 
rights,  and  lived  until  his  death  on  his  Pyrenean  estates.  Lineal  descendants 
of  the  St.  Castins  have  governed  the  Tarratines  until  the  present  (at  least  until 
1860).  The  New-Englanders  settled  at  Castine  in  1760,  and  in  1779  it  was  fortified 
by  650  British  soldiers.  Mass,  sent  a powerful  force  against  this  point,  consist- 
ing of  2,000  soldiers,  in  24  transports,  convoyed  by  19  war-vessels,  carrying  344 
cannon.  The  Americans  were  twice  repulsed  from  the  peninsula,  but  after  losing 
100  men  in  a third  attempt  they  landed  and  opened  batteries.  After  several  days 
of  cannonading,  7 British  frigates  (204  guns)  entered  the  bay,  and  bore  down  on 
the  crescent  line  of  American  ships.  After  one  broadside  the  American  line  was 


MOUNT  DESERT. 


Route  45.  303 


broken,  and  a disgraceful  debandade  ensued.  After  a hot  pursuit  among  the 
islands  and  up  the  river,  every  vessel  of  the  great  fleet  was  taken  or  destroyed, 
without  resistance.  The  army  straggled  in  broken  squads  to  the  Kennebec  set- 
tlements, and  Commodore  Saltonstall  was  cashiered  for  the  most  shameful  defeat 
which  America  ever  suffered  on  the  sea.  Castine  was  held  by  the  British  from 
1779  to  1783,  and  was  again  taken  and  held  by  4,000  of  their  troops  in  the  War  of 
1812.  The  history  of  Castine  has  more  romantic  interest  than  that  of  any  New 
England  town,  and  its  soil  abounds  with  the  relics  of  5 national  occupations, 
while  5 naval  battles  have  been  fought  in  its  harbor. 

Castine  is  a wealthy  town,  with  neat  wide  streets  and  fine  residences. 
It  is  the  seat  of  the  Eastern  Normal  School,  and  has  3 churches.  The 
chief  business  of  the  people  is  connected  with  the  sea,  in  shipbuilding, 
coasting,  or  the  deep-sea  fisheries.  Faint  traces  of  St.  Castin’s  fort  are 
seen,  and  on  the  hill  behind  the  village  the  English  Fort  George  is  well 
preserved.  The  remains  of  various  American  batteries  and  field-works 
are  found  on  the  peninsula,  while  the  harbor  is  commanded  by  a neat 
little  fort  recently  erected  by  the  United  States.  Castine  is  a favorite 
summer-resort,  by  reason  of  its  seclusion,  its  heroic  memories,  its  fine 
boating  and  fishing  facilities,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  sea-breezes. 

From  Castine  the  steamer  turns  S.,  and  rounding  Cape  Rosier,  passes 
through  a narrow  sound,  and  stops  at  Deer  Isle,  an  insular  town  of  3,400 
inhabitants,  devoted  to  the  deep-sea  fisheries.  The  sound  is  then  crossed 
to  Sedgwick,  a rugged  and  thinly  inhabited  town,  beyond  which  the 
course  is  S.  E.  around  Naskeag  Point,  and  across  the  island-strewn  Bay, 
with  Mt.  Desert  looming  in  front,  and  the  lofty  Blue  Hill  (950  ft.  high) 
on  the  N.  Passing  around  the  lower  point  of  Tremont,  S.  W.  Harbor  is 
entered,  and  the  steamer  stops  at  a pier  near  a great  lobster-canning  fac- 
tory. Leaving  this  point,  the  island  shores  are  rounded,  with  their  re- 
markable rock-bound  cliffs  and  overhanging  mountains,  and  Bar  Harbor 
is  soon  reached  (at  about  noon). 

Mount  Desert. 

Hotels.  At  S.  W.  Harbor , Island  House  ; Ocean  ; Freeman.  At  Somesville, 
Somes’  Tavern.  At  Bar  Harbor,  Agamont  House  ; Bay  View  ; Hamor  ; Rodick  ; 
Rockaway  ; Eden  ; Atlantic  ; St.  Sauveur  ; Ocean  ; Newport ; Peering  ; Kebo  ; 
Wayside ; Green  Mt.  House.  These  hotels  are  more  properly  large  boarding- 
houses, at  which  board  may  be  obtained  for  about  $10.00  a week.  There  is  al- 
ways a sufficiency  of  food,  but  owing  to  the  remoteness  from  market,  there  is  not 
so  much  variety  as  might  be  desired. 

Mount  Desert  is  an  island  covering  100  square  miles,  and  is  distin- 
guished for  its  wild  and  romantic  scenery  of  mountain,  lake,  and  shore, 
and  for  its  curious  and  poetic  history.  Politically,  it  is  divided  into  3 
towns,  with  an  aggregate  of  about  4,000  inhabitants,  on  60,000  acres  of 
land.  It  is  said  that  there  is  no  point  (except  Rio  J aneiro)  on  the  Atlan- 
tic coast  of  the  Americas,  where  such  magnificent  scenery  is  found,  — the 
sublimity  of  the  mountains  challenging  the  eternal  grandeur  of  the  sea. 
There  are  13  distinct  mountain-peaks  here,  with  numerous  lakes,  while  a 
deep,  narrow  arm  of  the  sea  runs  to  the  N.  nearly  through  the  island. 


304  Route  Ifi. 


MOUNT  DESERT. 


The  sea-sliore  by  Bar  Harbor.  The  view  from  the  village  is  very  pretty, 
extending  across  the  Porcupine  Islands  in  Frenchman’s  Bay  to  the  rolling 
hills  of  Gonldsborough.  There  are  beaches  near  the  village,  and  on  a 
high,  rocky  islet  near  by  is  the  summer  residence  of  Gen.  Fremont.  The 
beach  rambles  may  be  done  by  the  water-side  at  low  tide,  but  the  chief 
points  of  interest  are  more  easily  and  safely  reached  by  the  roads  which 
follow  the  shore.  Cromwell's  Cove  is  nearly  1J  M.  S.  of  the  village,  and 
has  bold  cliff-shores,  on  one  of  which  is  seen  the  rock-figure  called  the 
Assyrian.  The  Indian’s  Foot  (a  foot-print  in  the  rock)  and  the  Pulpit 
are  in  this  vicinity.  4 M.  S.  of  Bar  Harbor  (by  a road  leading  under  New- 
port Mt.  on  the  r. , and  with  the  Bay  and  the  round-backed  and  bristling 
Porcupine  Islands  on  the  1.)  is  Schooner  Head,  a high,  wave-washed 
cliff,  with  a white  formation  on  its  seaward  side,  which  resembles  a 
schooner  under  sail.  It  is  said  to  have  been  cannonaded  by  a British 
frigate  in  1812.  The  Spouting  Horn  is  a passage  worn  through  the  cliff, 
through  which  the  billows  sweep  in  stormy  weather,  and  form  an  inter- 
mittent fountain  above  the  cliff.  The  Mermaid’s  Cave  is  S.  of  the  Head, 
and  1 J M.  beyond  is  * Great  Head  (gained  by  a field-path  to  the  1. ),  “ the 
highest  headland  between  Cape  Cod  and  New  Brunswick,”  with  wonder- 
ful cliffs  and  chasms,  and  a broad  sea-view.  Newport  Beach  stretches 
beyond  Great  Head  to  Thunder  Cave  (entered  only  by  boat),  which  is  in 
the  lofty  Otter  Creek  Cliffs. 

6 - 7 M.  N.  W.  of  Bar  Harbor  are  the  Ovens,  a range  of  caves  in  the 
porphyritic  cliffs  on  Salisbury  Cove,  where  the  sea  has  produced  some 
fine  effects  of  beach  and  worn  rocks  and  bright  and  dripping  ledges.  The 
Via  Mala  is  a long  passage  in  the  neighboring  cliffs.  At  Hull’s  Cove 
(Hull's  Cove  House,  $ 7 - 10.00  a week),  2 M.  N.  of  Bar  Harbor,  is  a neat 
crescent  beach,  near  which  the  Gregoires  dwelt.  Madame  Marie  Therese 
de  Gregoire  was  the  granddaughter  of  the  Gascon  noble,  Condillac,  to 
whom  the  King  of  France  granted  Mt.  Desert  in  1688.  In  1785  she 
claimed  and  received  the  island,  and  lived  here  with  M.  Gregoire  until  her 
death  (about  1810).  From  Point  Levi,  N.  of  the  Cove,  a fine  view  is 
given  of  Frenchman’s  Bay,  which  is  10-12  M.  long  and  about  8 M.  wide, 
with  Newport  and  Schoodic  Mts.  on  r.  and  1.,  at  its  entrance,  — “the 
Pillars  of  Hercules  at  Mt.  Desert.” 

* Jordan’s  Pond  is  9 M.  S.  W.  of  Bar  Harbor,  by  a road  passing 
through  Echo  Notch.  About  8 M*.  beyond  the  village  a side  road  to  the 
r.  is  taken,  which  leads  to  the  lake,  situated  between  the  noble  cliffs  of 
Sargent’s  Mt.  on  the  W.  and  Mt.  Pemetic  on  the  E.,  with  the  Bubble 
Mts.  on  the  N.  The  banks  of  this  lake  furnish  the  most  beautiful  pros- 
pects on  the  island,  with  rare  combinations  of  the  charms  of  mountain- 
waters  and  mountain-cliffs.  The  lake  is  2 M.  long,  and  J M.  wide,  and 
affords  good  trout -fishing. 


GREEN  MT. 


Route  45.  305 


Eagle  Lake  (so  named  by  F.  E.  Church,  the  artist)  is  2J  M.  W.  of  Bar 
Harbor,  and  is  reached  by  a path  leaving  the  road  near  Green  Mt.  It  is 
2 M.  long,  with  Green  Mt.  on  the  E.,  Sargent  and  the  Bubble  Mts.  on  the 
S.  and  S.  W.,  and  the  bold  peak  of  Pemetic  on  the  S.  There  are  pretty 
sand-beaches  on  the  shores,  and  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Pemetic  may  be  made 
from  the  S.  end.  There  are  many  trout  in  these  calm  and  transparent 
waters. 


* Green  Mt.  is  near  Bar  Harbor,  from  which  a road  leads  to  the  summit 
in  4 M.  There  is  a small  hotel  on  the  summit,  where  accommodations  for 
the  night  maybe  obtained.  “The  view  from  Green  Mt.  is  delightful. 
No  other  peak  of  the  same  height  can  be  found  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of 
the  U.  S.,  from  Lubec  to  the  Rio  Grande,  nor  from  any  other  point  on 
the  coast  can  so  fine  a view  be  obtained.  The  boundless  ocean  on  the  one 
side  contrasting  with  high  mts.  on  the  other,  and  along  the  shore  numer- 
ous islands,  appearing  like  gems  set  in  liquid  pearl,  form  the  most  promi- 
nent features  in  the  scene.  White  sails  dotted  over  the  water  glide  slowly 
along.  We  know  not  what  view  in  nature  can  be  finer  than  this,  where 
the  two  grandest  objects  in  nature,  high  mts.  and  a limitless  ocean, 
occupy  the  horizon.  The  name  of  Eden  is  truly  appropriate  to  this  beau- 
tiful place.”  20  M.  out  on  the  ocean  is  seen  Mt.  Desert  Rock,  with  its 
lighthouse  bearing  a fixed  white  light.  In  the  W.  are  the  numerous  mts. 
of  the  island,  with  bright  lakes'  interspersed,  while  the  Camden  Mts.  are 
in  the  distance.  It  is  said  that  Katahdin  is  sometimes  visible  in  the  re- 
mote N.  (100  M.  away).  Frenchman’s  Bay,  with  its  many  islands,  and 
the  Gouldsborough  Mts.  beyond,  is  outspread  on  the  E.  It  is  claimed 
that  Mt.  Washington  has  been  seen  from  this  point,  140  M.  W.  Whittier 
thus  describes  this  view  (in  “Mogg  Megone”). 


The  hermit  priest,  who  lingers  now 
On  the  Bald  Mountain’s  shrubless  brow, 
The  gray  and  thunder-smitten  pile 
Which  marks  afar  the  Desert  Isle, 

While  gazing  on  the  scenes  below, 

May  half  forget  the  dreams  of  home. 

Far  eastward  o’er  the  lovely  bay, 
Penobscot’s  clustered  wigwams'  lay  ; 

Beneath  the  westward  turning  eye 
A thousand  wooded  islands  lie,— 

Gems  of  the  waters  ! — with  each  hue 
Of  brightness  set  in  ocean’s  blue. 

There  sleep  Placentia's  group,  — and  there 
Pere  Breteaux  marks  the  hour  of  prayer, 


And  there,  beneath  the  sea-worn  cliff, 

On  which  the  Father’s  hut  is  seen. 

The  Indian  stays  his  rocking  skiff, 

And  peers  the  hemlock-boughs  between, 
Half  trembling,  as  he  seeks  to  look 
Upon  the  Jesuit’s  Cross  and  Book. 

There,  gloomily  against  the  sky 

The  Dark  Isles  rear  their  summits  high  ; 

And  Desert  Rock,  abrupt  and  bare, 

Lifts  its  gray  turrets  in  the  air. 

Seen  from  afar,  like  some  stronghold 
Built  by  the  ocean-kings  of  old  ; 

And,  faint  as  smoke-wreath  white  and  thin 
Swells  in  the  north  vast  Katahdin  ; 

And  wandering  from  its  marshy  feet 
The  broad  Penobscot  comes  to  meet 
And  mingle  with  his  own  bright  bay.” 


Neivport  Mt.  is  near  the  water,  and  commands  a noble  view  of  “the 
very  many  shadowy  mountains  and  the  resounding  sea.”  The  ascent  is 
made  from  the  Schooner  Head  road.  Most  of  the  other  mts.  have  been 


ascended  and  furnish  fine  views,  while  the  summit  of  Kebo  (J  hr.  from 
Bar  Harbor)  affords  a charming  prospect  at  sunset. 


T 


306  Route  45. 


SOMES’  SOUND. 


S.  W.  Harbor  and  Somes'  Sound. 

Besides  the  hotels  at  the  Harbor  there  are  large  lobster-packing  works 
near  the  steamboat  wharf.  3 M.  S.  W.  is  the  celebrated  Sea  Wall , a 
ridge  of  large  stones  thrown  np  by  the  sea,  1 M.  long,  15  ft.  high,  and  of 
great  width.  5 M.  W.  is  Seal  Cove , a small  harbor  near  a lake  which  is 
4 M.  long  and  very  narrow,  under  the  spurs  of  Western  Mt.  Long  Lake 
is  2J  M.  N.  W.  from  S.  W.  Harbor,  and  extends  for  several  miles  between 
Beach  and  Western  Mts.  Denning's  Lake  lies  about  3 M.  from  the 
Harbor,  and  is  4 M.  long,  with  Dog  Mt.  on  one  shore  and  the  imposing 
Storm  Cliff  on  Beech  Mt.  on  the  other.  These  3 large  lakes  are  said  to  be 
well  stocked  with  fish,  and  by  the  near  approach  of  the  mts.  they  afford 
fine  scenic  effects. 

Beech  Mt.  is  often  ascended  from  S.  W.  Harbor  (a  mountain  road  runs 
nearly  to  the  summit).  The  view  embraces  Denning’s  Lake,  Somes’ 
Sound,  the  eastern  group  of  mts.,  and  Frenchman’s  Bay,  on  the  E.,  with 
Long  Lake,  Western  Mt.,  Blue  Hill,  Penobscot  Bay,  and  the  Camden 
Hills,  on  the  W.  The  ocean-view  on  the  S,  is  of  limitless  extent.  The 
bleak  summit  of  Dog  Mt.  and  the  easily  ascended  Flying  Mt.  command 
extensive  prospects  over  Somes’  Sound  on  the  E.  Sargent’s  Mt.  and  Mt. 
Mansell  are  sometimes  ascended  from  this  point. 

Somes’  Sound  is  an  arm  of  the  sea  which  extends  up  between  the  mt. 
ranges,  for  7 M.,  with  a width  at  its  entrance  of  2 M.  The  scenery  here 
has  been  likened  to  the  Delaware  Water  Gap,  to  the  Hudson  River  at  the 
Highlands,  and  to  Lake  George.  This  deep  fiord  is  a favorite  sailing 
ground,  although  caution  is  necessary  on  account  of  the  sudden  gusts 
which  sweep  down  from  the  mts.  “ Somes’  Sound  enables  us  to  sail 
through  the  heart  of  the  best  scenery  on  the  Island.”  The  Sound  is  well 
seen  from  Clark’s  Point,  at  S.  W.  Harbor,  and  a road  leads  near  its  shores 
to  Somesville,  at  the  N.  end.  After  passing  the  gateway  between  Dog 
Mt.  on  the  1.  and  Mt.  Mansell  on  the  r.,  a broader  expanse  is  entered, 
with  Beech  Mt.  on  the  1.,  and  Green  Mt.  and  the  eastern  group  on  the  r. 
Femald's  Point  is  on  the  W.  shore,  and  is  a pleasant  spot,  with  grassy 
lawns  and  a cold,  clear  spring.  This  was  the  seat  of  the  Jesuit  settlement 
of  St.  Sauveur,  and  Father  Biard’s  Spring  is  still  shown.  There  are 
picturesque  cliffs  on  the  mts.  in  the  vicinity,  and  Flying  Mt.  rises  on  the 
W.  Somesville  ( Somes'1  Tavern)  is  a small  village  prettily  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  Sound.  The  central  lakes  and  mts.  are  easily  visited 
from  this  point,  and  the  boating  and  fishing  on  the  Sound  are  much  prized. 
Somesville  is  6 M.  from  S.  W.  Harbor,  8 M.  from  Bar  Harbor,  and  4 M. 
from  Fernald’s  Point. 

In  1603  Henri  IV.  of  France  granted  to  the  Sieur  de  Monts  all  the  American 
shores  between  the  present  sites  of  Philadelphia  and  Quebec,  under  the  name  of 
Acadia.  While  De  Monts  and  Champlain  were  exploring  their  vast  domain,  they 


PORTLAND  TO  LEWISTON  AND  BANGOR.  Route  46.  307 


saw  tlie  peaks  of  this  island,  which  was  called  Monts  Deserts  by  Champlain.  The 
priests  Biard  and  Masse  assumed  too  much  authority  at  the  Port  Royal  colony, 
and  were  sternly  rebuked  by  its  chief,  Potrincourt,  who  said,  “ It  is  my  part  to 
rule  you  on  earth,  and  yours  only  to  guide  me  to  heaven.”  They  threatened  to 
lay  the  colony  under  interdict,  and  Potrincourt’s  son  so  resented  this  that  they 
left  Port  Royal  on  a ship  sent  from  France  by  Madame  de  Guercheville,  with 
other  Jesuits  on  board.  The  mission  band  sailed  to  the  S.  “We  then  dis- 
covered that  we  were  near  the  shore  of  Mt.  Desert,  an  island  which  the  savages 

call  Pemetic We  returned  thanks  to  God,  elevating  the  Cross,  and  singing 

praises  with  the  holy  Sacrifice  of  the  Mass.  We  named  the.  place  and  harbor  St. 
Sauveur.”  (Father  Biard.)  Historians  differ  as  to  the  duration  of  the  settle- 
ment, but  it  was  finally  broken  up  by  Samuel  Argali,  Governor  of  Virginia,  who 
surprised  the  place  in  a time  of  profound  peace.  His  14-gun  ship  entered  the 
Sound  “as  fleet  as  an  arrow,”  and  took  the  French  vessel  after  some  cannonad- 
ing, Father  Du  Thet  having  been  shot  down  at  a gun.  The  English  now  plun- 
dered the  village,  broke  down  the  Jesuits’  crosses,  and  carried  such  of  the 
colonists  as  they  could  find,  captives  to  Virginia.1  Although  granted  by  Louis 
XIV.  to  Condillac  in  1688,  the  island  was  not  resettled  until  the  arrival  of  Somes 
in  1761.  In  1762  Mt.  Desert  was  granted  to  Gov.  Bernard,  of  Mass.,  from  whom 
it  was  confiscated  during  the  Revolution  because  he  was  a royalist.  In  1785,  £ 
of  the  island  was  granted  by  Mass,  to  Sir  John  Bernard  (the  Governor’s  son),  and 
soon  after  the  greater  part  of  it  was  given  to  the  Gregoires,  heirs  of  Condillac. 

Mt.  Desert  to  Machiasjoort. 

After  leaving  Bar  Harbor  the  steamer  crosses  Frenchman’s  Bay  and 
ronnds  the  bold  Schoodic  Point.  The  deep  fiords  of  Gouldsborougli  and 
Steuben  are  seen  on  the  N.,  with  the  peninsulas  which  here  run  out  from 
the  mainland,  and  Little  Menan  Island  is  passed,  with  its  lighthouse, 
109  ft.  high.  The  maritime  village  of  Millbridge  (Atlantic  House)  is 
reached  about  3 hrs.  after  leaving  Mt.  Desert.  The  steamer  then  crosses 
Narraguagus  Bay  to  Jonesport  (Bay  View  House),  a peninsular  town 
devoted  to  fishing  and  the  coasting  trade.  Englishman’s  Bay  and  Machias 
Bay  are  now  crossed,  and  Machiasport  (Deering  House)  is  reached  (by  5 
o’clock,  p.  M. ).  This  is  a shipbuilding  village,  with  a railroad  8 M.  long 
running  into  the  lumber  district  of  Whitney ville. 

Machias  {Eastern  Hotel ; Clare's  Hotel ) is  a manufacturing  town  of 
2,530  inhabitants,  on  the  Machias  River,  N.  of  the  port.  It  was  fought 
for  by  the  English  and  French  in  the  17th  century,  and  finally  settled  in 
1763.  The  British  war- vessel,  the  “ Margaretta,”  was  captured  here  in 
1775,  and  Sir  Robert  Collier’s  fleet  was  repulsed  in  1777  by  the  militia  and 
the  Passamaquoddy  Indians. 


46.  Portland  to  Lewiston  and  Bangor. 

Trains  leave  the  Maine  Central  station  on  arrival  of  the  Eastern  Railroad  trains 
from  Boston,  some  of  the  cars  from  Boston  passing  over  on  to  the  rails  of  the 
Bangor  line.  One  train  daily  runs  to  Bangor,  and  three  trains  to  Lewiston. 


1 L’Escarbot,  De  Monts’  Huguenot  chaplain,  is  the  only  historian  who  justifies  Argali’s 
attack.  This  gentleman  was  a leading  member  of  L'Ordre  de  Bon  Temps , devoted  to  hunt- 
ing, fishing,  arid  feasting.  All  visitors  to  Mt.  Desert  should  join  this  order  (in  spirit),  and  a 
series  of  scrambles  over  the  mts.  will  render  feasting  possible,  even  with  the  frugal  fare  of 
the  island  hotels. 


308  Route  46, 


LEWISTON. 


The  train  runs  through  the  farming  towns  of  eastern  Cumberland 
County  for  1J  hours,  passing  the  stations,  Cumberland , Walnut  Hill, 
Gray,  and  New  Gloucester , At  Danville  Junction  the  Grand  Trunk 
Kailway  is  crossed. 

Station,  Auburn  (Elm  House;  Maine  Hotel),  a prosperous  little  city 
just  across  the  river  from  Lewiston.  Auburn  became  a city  in  1869,  and 
has  a population  of  6,166,  with  many  large  shoe-factories  and  other 
works.  The  Androscoggin  County  buildings  are  located  here. 

Station,  Lewiston  (*  De  Witt  House,  fronting  on  the  Park,  $3.00  a 
day;  Lewiston  House),  a manufacturing  city  of  recent  growth,  having 
13,602  inhabitants,  with  3 banks  and  a daily  paper.  The  new  * City 
Hall  (finished  in  1872)  is  one  of  the  finest  municipal  buildings  in  New 
England,  and  has  a lofty  and  graceful  tower  surmounted  by  a spire.  It 
fronts  on  the  Park,  near  the  De  Witt  House.  A large  water-power  is 
derived  from  the  falls  on  the  Androscoggin  River,  and  is  utilized  mainly 
by  cotton  and  woollen  mills.  Over  $ 6,000,000  are  invested  in  these 
works,  which  turned  out  $33,750,000  worth  of  goods  between  1861  and 
1867.  Nearly  4,000  hands  are  employed  in  these  mills,  which  run  208,000 
spindles,  and  turn  out  yearly  275,000,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths,  600,000 
yards  of  woollen  goods,  and  2-3,000,000  bags.  Many  French  Canadians 
are  employed  here,  and  the  number  of  young  people  in  the  city  is  quite 
notable.  The  bridge  leading  to  Auburn  commands  a fine  view  of  the 
Lewiston  Falls,  where  the  river  breaks  over  a ledge  of  blackened  gneiss 
and  mica  schist  rocks.  The  natural  fall  is  over  40  ft.,  and  has  been  in- 
creased to  50  ft.  by  a strong  granite  dam  which  is  braced  against  the 
rocky  islets  above  the  ledge.  The  water  led  off  by  the  factory  canals 
seems  scarcely  to  be  missed  in  the  broad  masses  which  thunder  over  the 
ledges. 

A terrible  legend  is  attached  to  these  falls,  to  the  effect  that  early  in  the  last 
century  a white  hermit  lived  on  one  of  the  islands  above.  The  Indians  feared 
and  shunned  him,  and  plotted  his  destruction.  The  hermit  learned  their  plans, 
and  set  a light,  on  the  evening  appointed  for  the  attack,  at  a point  below  the  falls. 
50  Indians  (so  many  from  their  great  fear  of  him)  dropped  down  in  their  canoes 
by  night,  intending  to  land  by  the  camp-fire  on  his  island.  But  seeing  the  light 
below  the  falls  (his  own  fire  having  been  x>ut  out),  they  steered  confidently  toward 
it,  and  when  it  was  too  late,  found  their  canoes  in  the  wild  current  over  the  falls. 
The  legend  says  that  not  one  of  them  escaped  with  life  from  that  fearful  plunge. 

Bates  College  is  back  of  Lewiston,  and  has  three  commodious  new 
buildings.  It  was  organized  in  1864,  is  under  the  care  of  the  Free-Will 
Baptist  Church,  and  has  a Theological  School  attached.  There  are  12 
instructors  and  103  students,  with  about  7,000  volumes  in  the  library. 

After  leaving  Lewiston  the  train  passes  through  the  farming  towns  of 
Greene,  Leeds  (where  the  Androscoggin  Division  crosses  the  present  route), 
Monmouth , and  W inthrop  (Winthrop  House).  This  is  a pleasant  village, 
near  the  Cobossee  Contee  Pond,  which  is  9 M.  long  and  1 M.  wide,  and 


BRUNSWICK. 


Route  Iff.  309 


is  dotted  with  picturesque  islands.  W.  of  the  village  is  Mt.  Pisgah,  from 
which  the  White  Mts.  are  seen.  Close  to  Winthrop,  on  either  side,  are 
the  North  and  South  Ponds,  while  the  blue  hills  of  Dixmont  may  be  seen 
in  the  N.  E. 

Station,  Readjield  (Craig  House),  the  seat  of  the  Maine  Wesleyan 
Seminary  and  Female  College,  which  was  incorporated  in  1823,  and  has 
5-600  students  (both  sexes).  Stages  run  to  Augusta,  Farmington, 
Fayette,  and  Chesterville.  Station,  Belgrade  (Railroad  House),  in  a town 
whose  surface  is  largely  composed  of  lakes.  Besides  the  long  Snow’s 
Pond,  which  lies  near  the  track  (on  the  r. ),  there  are  several  others,  one 
of  which  is  between  Belgrade,  Rome,  and  Vienna,  and  covers  25  square 
miles.  This  lake  is  quite  picturesque,  with  irregular  and  broken  shores, 
and  several  islands.  Stations,  N.  Belgrade , W.  Waterville,  and  W ater- 
ville,  where  the  Augusta  Division  of  the  M.  C.  Railway  unites  with  the 
present  route  (Lewiston  Division). 

Waterville  to  Bangor,  see  Route  47. 


47.  Portland  to  Augusta  and  Bangor. 

Portland  to  Bangor,  138  M.  Two  through  trains  daily,  and  4 trains  daily  to 
Augusta  (63  M.).  This  is  the  favorite  route  from  Portland  to  the  East,  passing 
through  the  valley  of  the  Kennebec,  and  by  Brunswick,  Gardiner,  Hallowell,  and 
Augusta.  The  trains  on  the  Eastern  R.  R.  (Route  37)  from  Boston  make  close 
connections  at  Portland  with  this  line,  and  some  of  the  cars  pass  over  on  to  its 
rails.  Time  is  given  at  the  Portland  station  for  dinner. 

After  leaving  Portland,  the  train  passes  over  the  suburban  plains,  and 
stops  at  Woodford’s  and  Westbrook.  The  latter  is  a populous  town, 
with  6,630  inhabitants  (in  3 villages),  and  has  large  paper  manufactories 
and  works  for  canning  corn,  lobsters,  &c.  Crossing  now  the  farming 
town  of  Cumberland,  the  line  intersects  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  at 
Yarmouth  (restaurant  at  the  station),  and  then  passes  on  to  Freeport , a 
village  at  the  head  of  Casco  Bay,  devoted  to  shipbuilding.  The  rural 
station  of  Oak  Hill  is  next  passed,  and  then  the  train  enters  Brunswick 
(Bowdoin  House  ; Tontine  Hotel ; restaurant  in  the  station). 

Pejepscot  was  settled  in  1628,  under  a patent  from  Plymouth,  and  was  soon 
assigned  to  Mass.,  under  whose  protection  a flourishing  colony  settled  here.  It 
was  destroyed  by  the  Indians  in  1676,  and  afterwards  the  territory  was  bought  of 
certain  local  chiefs.  The  conflicting  claims  between  the  Plymouth  patent  and 
this  later  purchase  gave  rise  to  the  most  long  and  vexatious  lawsuit  in  the  annals 
of  Maine.  The  proprietors  built  Fort  George  at  Pejepscot,  and  in  consideration 
of  £ 400  from  the  province  and  exemption  from  taxes  for  4 years,  they  maintained 
at  the  colony  a clergyman,  a schoolmaster,  and  a sergeant  with  15  soldiers.  The 
fort  was  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Androscoggin  River,  at  the  Lower  Falls,  and  was 
called  the  key  of  Western  Maine,  since  it  guarded  the  favorite  pass  of  the  Ana- 
sagunticook  Indians.  It  was  erected  in  1715,  after  the  town  had  been  destroyed 
a second  time  (in  1690).  In  1722  Fort  George  was  flanked,  and  the  town  was  once 
more  ruined  by  the  revengeful  Indians.  The  Anasagunticooks  migrated  to  St. 
Francis  later  in  the  century,  and  the  district  was  soon  reoccupied  by  the  English, 
and  in  1737  received  the  name  of  Brunswick. 


310  Route  47. 


BOWDOIN  COLLEGE. 


Brunswick  is  a prosperous  town  at  the  falls  and  the  head  of  tide-vrater 
on  the  Androscoggin  River,  and  is  built  on  two  broad,  parallel  streets.  It 
has  4,727  inhabitants,  with  4 banks,  several  churches,  a weekly  paper, 
and  numerous  lumber-mills.  The  river  here  falls  41  ft.  in  3 pitches,  af- 
fording a large  water-power,  part  of  which  is  used  by  the  Cabot  cotton- 
mills. 

Bowdoin  College  is  located  on  an  elevated  plain  near  the  railway-sta- 
tion. This  institution  was  incorporated  in  1794,  and  opened  in  1802,  with 
an  endowment  from  the  State  of  5 townships  and  $ 19,000  a year  for  5 
years.  It  has  at  present  29  instructors  and  164  students,  exclusive  of  70 
students  in  the  medical  department,  with  a library  of  about  34,000  vol- 
umes. There  are  good  collections  of  shells,  minerals,  and  other  objects. 
The  conspicuous  building  with  two  spires,  which  stands  near  the  centre 
of  the  line,  contains  the  handsomely  frescoed  chapel,  the  museum  of  the 
Maine  Historical  Society,  and  the  gallery  of  paintings.  Nearer  the  sta- 
tion is  a large  and  attractive  Memorial  Hall  built  of  stone,  and  the  Medi- 
cal School  is  across  the  road,  and  near  the  Congregational  Church.  The 
pine-groves  in  the  rear  of  the  college  are  widely  known  for  their  sombre 
beauty,  and  afford  favorite  walks  for  the  students. 

The  Bowdoin  Gallery  of  Paintings.  Pierre  Baudouin  was  a Huguenot  gentle- 
man from  La  Rochelle,  who  landed  at  Portland  in  1687.  His  grandson,  James 
Bowdoin,  was  a friend  of  Franklin,  an  ardent  patriot,  and  Gov.  of  Mass.,  1785-6. 
James  Bowdoin  the  son  of  the  last-named,  was  a scholar  and  diplomatist,  and  at 
his  death  he  left  to  this  college  6,000  acres  of  land,  $6,000  in  money,  and  his  ex- 
tensive library,  philosophical  apparatus,  and  picture-gallery.  Some  of  the  paint- 
ings have  been  restored  with  questionable  effect. 

2,  Venus  equipjnng  Cupid,  after  Titian;  3,  Continence  of  Scipio,  N.  Poussin 
(perhaps  only  a line  copy) ; 5,  6,  Studio  scenes  ; 10,  Sacking  a town,  Flemish 
School;  11,  Italian  scene,  Vambrome;  12,  Surgeon  and  patient,  attributed  to 
Brouwer ; 13,  Sleeping  Cupid,  Pupil  of  Guido  Beni;  15,  Italian  landscape,  N. 
Berghem ; 14,  16,  Landscapes  ; 17,  Infant  John  the  Baptist,  Stella;  18,  Dutch 
Dairy  Women,  Flemish  School ; *19,  Interior  of  a church,  Flemish  School ; 21, 
Poultry,  Hondekoeter ; 22,  Seven  Ages  of  Man,  Hogarth ; 23,  Old  Tower,  Hogarth; 
24,  Ruins,  Hogarth;  25,  The  Women  at  the  Sepulchre,  Simon  Vouet  (painted  on 
copper)  ; 28,  View  on  the  Campagna  ; 30,  James  Madison,  Gilbert  C.  Stuart ; 32, 
Artillery,  Wouvermans ; * * The  Governor  of  Gibraltar,  Van  Dyke  (one  of  his  best 
portraits  ; the  college  has  refused  $30,000  for  it)  ; 35,  The  Head,  of  John  the  Bap- 
tist in  a charger,  after  Guido  Beni  ; 36,  The  Saviour,  copied  from  a picture  in  the 
Boman  Catacombs;  37,  Mirabeau  ; 38,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  after Bubcns ; 39, 
Descent  from  the  Cross  ; 40,  John  in  the  Wilderness  ; 44,  * Holy  Family,  either 
by  Baphael,  or  a fine  copy ; 45,  Translation  of  Elijah ; 46,  Simon  and  the  child 
Jesus  in  the  Temple,  possibly  by  Bubens  ; 50,  A Scene  in  the  Inquisition,  Flemish 
School;  51,  Venus  and  Adonis,  after  Titian;  53,  Cleopatra  ; 56,  * The  Angel  deliv- 
ering Peter  from  prison  ; 57,  Diana  and  Endymion  ; 58,  Venus  receiving  gifts  from 
Ceres,  attributed  to  Bubens ; 59,  Fox  and  Pheasant ; 60,  Combat  of  Hyena  and 
Dogs ; 62,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  Domenico  Franco ; 63,  Esther  and  Ahasuerus, 
Franco ; 64,  Marine  view,  Flemish ; 65,  Discovery  of  Achilles,  Teniers;  66,  Land- 
scape, Dutch;  67,  Turkish  sea-fight,  Mauglab ; 68,  Morning  on  the  coast,  Laroix; 
70,  Cattle,  after  Paul  Potter;  70-89,  Portraits  of  the  Bowdoins,  who  claimed 
descent  from  Baudoin,  the  Count  of  Flanders  and  Crusader  ; 92,  Storm  at  sea  ; 93, 
Landscape  ; 97,  President  Harrison  ; 98,  99,  Italian  scenes  ; 100,  View  of  Messina; 
102,  Henry  Clay  ; 104,  The  Duke  of  Cumberland,  victor  at  Culloden  ; 105,  Pilgrim  ; 
106,  The  Walk  to  Emmaus  ; 107,  Peter  repentant ; 110,  111,  Venetian  views  ; 112, 
Christ  bearing  the  Cross  ; 116,  117,  French  scenes  ; 119,  Italian  landscape  ; 120,  A 


AUGUSTA.  Route  47.  311 

View  on  the  Rhine  ; 122,  123,  Landscapes  ; 126,  Bishop  Mcllvaine  ; 127,  128,  Affec- 
tion and  Love  ; 131,  President  Pierce  ; 133,  Portrait,  Copley. 

Franklin  Pierce,  14th  President  of  the  United  States,  was  in  the  Bowdoin  class 
of  1824,  and  in  that  of  1825  Henry  W.  Longfellow  and  Nathaniel  Hawthorne 
were  classmates.  In  the  adjacent  village,  J.  S.  C.  Abbott,  the  historian,  and 
G.  P.  Putnam,  the  veteran  publisher,  were  born.  The  Presidency  of  the  College 
is  now  held  by  J.  L.  Chamberlain,  a successful  general  during  the  Secession 
War,  and  Gov.  of  Maine,  1867-  71. 

Railroads  run  from  Brunswick  to  Lewiston,  Farmington,  'and  Bath. 

Beyond  Brunswick  the  main  line  turns  NT.,  crosses  the  Androscoggin, 
and  follows  the  r.  hank  of  the  Kennebec  River  (seats  on  the  r.  preferable) 
through  the  farming  towns  of  Topsham  and  Bowdoinham,  which  have  lost 
1,100  inhabitants  since  1850.  Stations,  Richmond,  a busy  shipbuilding 
village  near  the  site  of  Fort  Richmond  (erected  in  1 719),  S.  Gardiner,  and 
Gardiner  {Johnson  House;  Evans  House).  This  is  a city  of  3,403  in- 
habitants, with  4 banks,  2 weekly  papers,  7 churches,  and  several  small 
factories.  The  chief  industries  of  Gardiner  are  in  sawing  lumber  in  sum- 
mer and  ice  in  winter,  and  immense  ice-houses  maybe  seen  on  the  banks 
of  the  Kennebec.  The  Common  contains  5 acres,  and  is  situated  on 
Church  Hill  (125  ft.  above  the  river),  which  commands  a pleasant  view. 
The  slopes  of  this  hill  are  lined  with  residences,  while  the  stores  are  on 
the  riverward  plain,  and  the  factories  are  along  the  water-power  given  by 
the  Cobbosee  Contee  River.  This  place  was  settled  in  1760,  and  was 
named  in  honor  of  the  family  which  owned  its  territory. 

Station,  Hallowell  (Hallowell  House , near  the  station),  a quiet  little 
city  on  the  banks  of  the  Kennebec,  with  3,008  inhabitants,  4 banks,  a 
weekly  paper,  and  6 churches.  It  has  a few  small  factories,  but  is  chiefly 
noted  for  the  extensive  quarries  of  white  and  light  gray  granite,  back  of 
the  city,  in  which  250  men  are  employed.  900,000  yards  of  floor  oil-cloth, 
and  2,500,000  yards  of  cotton  cloths  are  made  yearly  here.  Hallowell 
was  first  permanently  settled  about  1754,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  its 
chief  proprietor. 

Augusta  (Cony  House,  near  the  station;  Mansion  House ; Augusta 
Hotel ; Central  House),  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Maine,  is  2 M.  N.  of 
Hallowell,  and  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation.  The  city  is  built  on  both 
sides  of  the  Kennebec,  and  contains  7,815  inhabitants,  with '5  banks,  a 
daily  and  5 weekly  papers,  9 churches,  and  3 Masonic  lodges.  The  situ- 
ation of  Augusta  is  beautiful,  being  on  and  around  the  high  hills  whicli 
border  the  river.  About  J M.  above  the  town  is  the  great  Kennebec 
Dam,  584  ft.  long,  and  15  ft.  above  high-water  mark.  Besides  improving 
the  navigation  of  the  river  above,  this  dam  forms  an  immense  water- 
power, estimated  at  3,700  net  horse-power.  It  was  built  in  1836-7,  at 
an  expense  of  $ 300,000,  and  has  been  purchased  by  A.  & W.  Sprague, 
the  R.  I.  manufacturers,  who  have  erected  large  works  in  the  vicinity, 
and  have  still  others  in  prospect.  The  commercial  part  of  Augusta  lies 


312  Route  Jff. 


AUGUSTA. 


along  the  r.  bank  of  the  river,  on  Water  St.,  while  the  heights  above  are 
Occupied  by  mansions  and  public  buildings.  The  handsome  Congrega- 
tional Church,  of  granite,  is  on  the  verge  of  the  ridge,  and  not  far  from 
the  High  School  building.  Farther  S.,  on  State  St.  (which  runs  along 
the  heights),  are  the  fine  granite  buildings  of  Kennebec  County,  and  be- 
yond these  is  the  * State  House.  This  elegant  structure  is  built  of  white 
granite,  mostly  derived  from  ledges  of  the  same  material  on  which  it  is 
founded.  It  is  situated  on  a high  hill,  which  commands  a beautiful  view, 
and  is  surrounded  by  well-ornamented  grounds.  It  was  built  in  1828  - 31, 
with  a solidity  which  is  rarely  encountered  in  American  public  works, 
and  its  principal  external  features  consist  of  a rustic  basement,  support- 
ing a colonnade  of  10  monolithic  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  while  above 
all  is  a graceful  dome.  The  Rotunda  is  first  entered,  — a neat  hall  sup- 
ported by  8 columns,  and  draped  with  80  storm-worn  and  battle-torn 
flags  which  were  borne  by  the  Maine  regiments  in  the  War  for  the  Union. 
It  is  said  that  not  a flag  was  lost  by  the  Maine  troops  in  the  war.  The  32 
pennons  of  the  cavalry  and  artillery  are  arranged  on  the  side-walls,  while 
in  the  adjacent  lobbies  are  10  rebel  flags  which  were  taken  in  action  by 
the  troops  of  Maine.  Under  the  chandelier  in  the  centre  of  the  hall  is  a 
neat  little  fountain,  whose  basin  is  stocked  with  trout.  On  the  walls  are 
portraits  of  Governor  Pownal,  Sir  William  Pepperell,  Senator  Rufus  King, 
Gen.  Knox,  and  Presidents  Washington  and  Lincoln.  On  one  side  of  the 
hall  is  a fine  bust  of  Gov.  Chamberlain,  by  Jackson.  From  the  second 
story  access  may  be  gained  to  the  halls  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, and  on  the  S.  side  of  the  third  story  is  the  State  Library,  con- 
sisting of  23,000  volumes.  Still  higher  up  is  the  dome,  from  whose  sum- 
mit (easily  accessible)  a fine  view  is  enjoyed.  On  the  S.  is  seen  Hallo  well, 
over  broad  reaches  of  the  silvery  Kennebec  ; on  the  W.  are  high,  wrooded 
hills  ; on  the  N.  is  the  white  city  of  Augusta  divided  by  the  river  ; and 
on  the  E.  is  the  Kennebec,  with  the  U.  S.  Arsenal  on  the  meadows  be- 
yond, and  the  Insane  Asylum  on  the  heights. 

The  State  Insane  Asylum  is  a noble  granite  building  on  the  heights  E. 
of  the  river,  and  situated  in  extensive  ornamental  grounds.  It  cost 
$ 300,000,  and  accommodates  300  patients,  many  of  whom  lighten  the 
hours  of  their  seclusion  from  the  world  by  working  on  a large  farm  which 
pertains  to  the  Asylum.  The  building  is  262  ft.  long,  and  was  erected  in 
1850  - 52,  after  the  destruction  by  fire  of  the  old  Asylum,  in  which  27 
patients  and  a keeper  were  burnt.  Near  this  point  is  the  Kennebec  Arse- 
nal, where  the  United  States  keeps  several  thousand  stand  of  arms,  with 
many  cannon  and  other  munitions  of  war.  There  are  several  neat  build- 
ings here,  and  the  grounds  are  by  the  river-side  and  are  well  arranged. 
The  Asylum  and  Arsenal  being  in  the  E.  wards  of  the  city,  are  reached 
by  crossing  the  long  bridge  near  the  foot  of  Water  St.,  from  which  are 
afforded  views  of  the  slender  and  graceful  iron  railway-bridge. 


AUGUSTA. 


Route  47.  313 


Togus  Springs  are  about  4 M.  to  the  S.  E.,  and  were  formerly  a sum- 
mer-resort of  considerable  local  fame.  In  1866  a National  Asylum  for 
disabled  volunteer  soldiers  was  established  at  this  beautiful  place,  at  an 
expense  of  $300,000.  A farm  of  600  acres  is  attached  to  the  Asylum, 
and  500  men  can  be  accommodated  here,  although  but  200  are  now 
present. 

Augusta  occupies  part  of  the  ancient  domain  of  the  Cushnoc  clan  of  the  Can- 
ibas  tribe  of  the  Abenaqui  nation  of  Indians.  It  was  in  the  Kennebec  Patent 
granted  to  the  Plymouth  Colony  in  1629,  and  was  settled  before  1654,  but  aban- 
doned and  laid  waste  in  1676  (King  Philip’s  War).  In  1716  a stone  fort  was  built 
here,  and  abandoned  in  1724  (Lovewell’s  War),  and  in  1754  Fort  Western  was 
built  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Kennebec  River.  This  was  a strong  fort,  surrounded 
by  palisaded  outworks  garnished  with  towers,  and  in  the  autumn  of  1775  it  was 
occupied  by  Benedict  Arnold,  who  crossed  the  wilderness  to  Quebec  with  1,100 
men  (New-Englanders  and  Virginians).  His  command  rested  here  for  some  time, 
and  made  batteaux  in  which  the  Kennebec  was  ascended  to  a point  above  Mos- 
cow. A long  portage  then  took  the  forces  to  the  Dead  River,  which  was  ascended, 
amid  fearful  hardships  by  hunger,  cold,  and  exposure,  to  its  head-waters.  Another 
portage  carried  them  to  Lake  Megantic  (in  Canada),  whence  the  Chaudiere  River 
was  descended,  and  Arnold’s  little  army  of  gaunt  and  ragged  heroes  arose  like  an 
apparition  from  the  savage  southern  wilderness  before  the  walls  of  Quebec. 

Augusta  prospered  in  the  arts  of  peace  until  the  outbreak  of  the  Secession 
War,  in  1861,  after  which  it  became  a central  rendezvous  for  the  troops  of  the 
State.  Among  the  regiments  which  formed  and  encamped  here  was  the  8th 
Maine,  which  fought  in  South  Carolina  and  Florida,  lost  95  men  at  Drury’s  Bluff, 
83  at  Wier’s  Bottom,  and  100  at  Cold  Harbor,  bearing  meanwhile  the  colors  pre- 
sented to  them  by  the  Governor  of  Maryland,  at  Annapolis.  Also  the  9th  Maine, 
which  fought  in  S.  Carolina,  stormed  the  Morris  Island  batteries  at  dawn,  and 
took  the  colors  of  the  21st  S.  C.,  lost  100  men  in  the  repulse  from  Fort  Wagner, 
and  was  decimated  at  Cold  Harbor.  Also  the  famous  1st  Maine  Cavalry,  which 
fought  at  Brandy  Station,  Aldie,  Luray,  Middleburgh,  and  in  numerous  raids 
and  outpost  attacks,  losing  many  hundred  men. 

Augusta  is  98  M.  from  Kittery  ; 142  M.  from  Eastport  ; 207  M.  from  Fort  Kent ; 
59  M.  from  Bangor  ; 52  M.  from  Portland  ; and  182  M.  from  Presque  Isle.  The 
State,  of  which  it  is  the  capital,  has  an  area  greater  than  that  of  the  other  five 
New  England  States  combined,  but  is  slowly  decreasing  in  population,  having 
suffered  an  actual  loss  of  7,872  inhabitants  between  1860  and  1870. 

Steamers  run  between  Augusta,  Portland,  and  Boston,  semi-weekly,  stopping  at 
the  river-landings. 

Stages  run  from  Augusta  to  W.  Gardiner,  Litchfield,  Webster,  and  Lisbon  Falls  ; 
to  Winthrop  and  Wayne  ; to  Manchester,  Readfield,  Mt.  Vernon,  Fayette,  Vienna, 
Chesterville,  and  Farmington  ; to  Belgrade,  Rome,  and  New  Sharon  ; to  S.  Vas- 
saiboro,  China,  Albion,  Unity,  Troy,  Dixmont,  Newburg,  and  Bangor ; to 
Windsor,  Palermo,  Liberty,  Montville,  N.  Searsmont,  Belmont,  and  Belfast  (42 
M.,  fare  $3.00)  ; also  across  Lincoln  County  to  Rockland  and  Damariscotta. 


At  Augusta  the  line  crosses  the  Kennebec  on  a light  and  graceful  iron 
bridge,  and  follows  the  beautiful  river  for  over  20  M.  (seat  on  the  1.  side 
preferable).  Station,  Vassalboro  (small  inn),  a manufacturing  village  in 
a large  and  prosperous  town,  which  is  pleasantly  diversified  by  hills  and 
ponds,  and  has  on  the  E.  China  Lake,  which  is  about  10  M.  long  and 
affords  good  fishing.  The  lake  is  almost  cut  in  two  by  projecting  points 
at  the  Narrows,  and  empties  by  the  Sebasticook  River.  S.  China  is  a 
pretty  village  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  with  a tavern,  a church,  and  3 
stores. 


14 


314  Route  47. 


WATERVILLE. 


Beyond  Vassalboro,  the  train  passes  through  Winslow,  and  crosses  the 
Kennebec  near  its  confluence  with  the  Sebasticook.  The  ruins  of  Fort 
Halifax  are  seen  on  the  bluff  point  just  S.  of  the  union  of  the  rivers. 
This  fort  was  one-of  a chain  erected  by  Mass,  to  defend  the  Maine  coast 
from  French  raids.  It  was  built  by  Gov.  Shirley  in  1754,  and  garrisoned 
by  130  men,  until  its  abandonment,  after  the  Peace  of  Paris  (1763). 
Large  Indian  settlements  formerly  occupied  the  intervales  in  this  vicinity, 
and  as  early  as  1676  envoys  of  Massachusetts  came  here  to  detach  the 
tribe  from  King  Philip’s  Confederation,  — an  unsuccessful  attempt. 

Station,  Waterville  (two  inns),  a place  of  nearly  5,000  inhabitants, 
near  the  Ticonic  Falls  on  the  Kennebec  River.  The  village  is  built  along 
rambling  streets  on  a broad  plain  above  the  river,  and  has  some  handsome 
residences.  Near  the  station  are  the  buildings  of  Colby  University 
(founded  in  1820),  which  has  6 instructors  and  52  students,  with  a library 
of  6 - 8,000  volumes.  This  institution  is  under  the  care  of  the  Baptist 
Church,  and  besides  the  usual  barrack-like  dormitories  of  American 
colleges  it  has  two  handsome  new  stone  buildings.  On  one  side  is  the 
new  granite  Scientific  Department,  while  the  other  wing  of  the  line  is 
occupied  by  a fine  stone  building  with  a tower.  The  lower  part  of  this 
edifice  is  occupied  by  the  library,  while  the  upper  part  is  consecrated  as 
a Memorial  Hall.  On  one  side  of  this  hall  is  a fine  monument  by  Mil- 
more,  representing  a colossal  dead  lion,  transfixed  by  a spear,  with  an 
agonized  face,  and  with  his  paw  resting  on  the  shield  of  the  Union  (an 
adaptation  of  Thorwaldsen’s  Lion  at  Lucerne).  Below  this  large  and 
beautiful  work  is  a tablet  (also  of  marble)  containing  the  names  of  20 
former  students  who  fell  in  the  War  for  the  Union,  with  the  inscription, 

“ Fratribus  etiam  in  cineribus  caris  quorum  nomina  intra  incisa  sunt,  quique 
in  bello  civili  pro  reipublicse  integritate  ceciderunt,  hanc  Tabulam  posuerunt 
alumni.”  The  Memorial  Hall  is  to  be  decorated  with  pictures. 

A branch  railroad  runs  from  Waterville  to  Skowhegan  (see  Route  42),  and  at 
this  point  the  Lewiston  Division  of  the  Maine  Central  Railway  (Route  46)  unites 
with  the  present  route  (the  Augusta  Division.)  Stages  run  hence  to  many  rural 
villages. 

In  running  from  Waterville  to  Bangor  the  train  passes  Kendall’s  Mills, 
or  Fairfield , Station,  and  soon  after  the  track  of  the  Skowhegan  Division 
turns  off  to  the  1.,  and  the  present  route  (Bangor  Division)  crosses  the 
Kennebec  on  a high  bridge.  Stations,  Clinton  and  Burnham. 

From  Burnham  the  Belfast  Division  of  the  Maine  Central  Railway  runs  S.  E.  to 
the  city  of  Belfast  (see  Route  48),  in  35  M.  passing  through  the  farming  towns  of 
Waldo  County,  Unity,  Thorndike,  Brooks,  and  Waldo. 

Beyond  Burnham  the  line  follows  the  Sebasticook  River  to  the  station, 
Pittsfield  (Lancey  House ; daily  stage  to  Palmyra,  Hartland,  St.  Albans, 
Harmony,  Ripley,  and  Cambridge  in  20  M.,  fare  $ 1. 50. ) Stations,  Detroit , 
and  Newport  ( Shaw  House),  a prosperous  village  on  the  shores  of  East 
Pond,  which  is  *15  M.  around  and  affords  good  fishing.  The  Dexter 
Division  of  the  Maine  Central  Railway  runs  N.  to  Dexter  (see  Route  43). 


BANGOR.  Route  47.  315 

To  the  S.  are  the  high  hills  of  Dixmont,  and  the  train  passes  on  by 
E.  Newport , Etna , Carmel , and  Hermon  Pond  to 

Bangor. 

Hotels.—*  Bangor  House,  on  the  heights,  $2.50-3.00  ; Penobscot  Exchange  ; 
Franklin  House  ; and  many  others. 

Steamers  leave  tri-weekly  (during  the  season  of  navigation)  for  Portland  and 
Boston,  stopping  at  the  river-ports. 

Railroads. — The  Maine  Central,  to  Portland  and  Boston,  246  M.  (by  Eastern 
R.  R.),  in  11  hrs.  The  European  and  North  American  R.  R.  to  St.  John,  205£ 
M.,  in  10^-16  hrs.  (the  train  leaving  Bangor  early  in  the  morning  arrives  at  St. 
John  about  6 p.  m.).  The  Bangor  and  Piscataquis  R.  R.,  to  Guilford,  61  M.,  in 
3^-5  hrs. 

Stages  run  to  Hampden,  Frankfort,  Prospect,  Stockton,  Searsport,  and  Belfast 
(30  M.,  fare  $ 2.50  ; leaves  early  in  the  morning)  : to  Monroe  ; to  Newburg,  Dix- 
mont, Troy,  Unity,  Albion,  and  China ; to  Exeter  ; to  Kenduskeag,  Corinth,  and 
Charleston  ; to  Glenburn,  Brown ville,  and  Katahdin  Iron  Works  ; to  Brewer, 
Eddington,  Clifton,  Amherst,  and  Aurora  ; to  Orrington,  Bucksport,  Orland, 
Penobscot,  and  Castine  ; to  Ellsworth,  Cherryfield,  Macliias,  and  Eastport(125  M., 
fare  $ 10,  leaves  every  evening). 

Bangor,  the  second  city  in  Maine,  and  the  second  lumber-mart  in  the 
world,  is  a handsome  city  situated  on  commanding  hills  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Penobscot  River.  It  is  about  60  M.  from  the  sea,  and 
is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the  deep  ravine  in  which  flows  the  Kendus- 
keag Stream.  The  business  part  of  the  city  is  situated  on  the  level  land 
adjoining  this  stream  on  both  sides,  and  has  many  massive  and  substantial 
commercial  buildings,  since  Bangor  is  the  trade-centre  for  a larger  area  of 
country  than  is  fed  by  any  other  New  England  city.  It  contains  18,289 
inhabitants  (in  1800  it  had  277),  with  11  banks,  a daily  and  2 weekly 
papers,  5 insurance  companies,  5 Masonic  lodges,  43  schools,  and  14 
churches.  The  heights  on  either  side  of  the  Kenduskeag  are  lined  with 
well-shaded  streets,  and  have  many  handsome  residences,  while  there  are 
several  well-built  churches  in  the  same  localities.  The  Custom  House  and 
Post  Office,  on  the  Kenduskeag  Bridge,  is  a neat  granite  structure.  There 
are  240  men  engaged  in  iron-works  here,  and  150  in  the  shoe-manufactur- 
ing trade,  besides  which  the  city  has  several  small  factories  and  ship- 
yards, with  a lucrative  coasting  and  foreign  trade.  The  products  of  the 
rich  alluvial  basin  of  the  Penobscot  are  handled  here,  although,  on  account 
of  the  severity  of  the  climate  in  this  high  latitude,  but  a small  portion  of 
the  valley  is  under  cultivation.  The  tributaries  of  the  Penobscot  pene- 
trate the  great  Maine  Forest  in  every  direction,  and  bear  downward  to 
Bangor  immense  quantities  of  lumber,  in  the  sawing  and  shipment  of 
which  the  city  finds  its  chief  industry.  The  booms  in  which  the  descend- 
ing logs  are  caught  extend  for  miles  along  the  river,  and  a great  number 
of  saw-mills  are  in  operation  along  the  shores.  Up  to  1855,  2,999,847,201 
ft.  of  lumber  had  been  surveyed  at  Bangor;  between  1859  and  1869, 
1,869,965,454  ft  of.  long  lumber  were  shipped  hence;  in  1868  alone, 
274,000,000  ft.  of  short  lumber  (clapboards,  laths,  and'  shingles)  were 


316  Route  48. 


BANGOR. 


shipped;  and  in  1872,  246,500,000  ft.  of  long  lumber  were  surveyed  here. 
The  lumber  crop  of  1872,  in  Maine,  was  about  700,000,000  ft.,  of  which 
225,000,000  floated  down  the  Penobscot,  and  100,000,000  passed  down 
the  Kennebec.  To  transport  this  immense  amount  of  lumber  to  its  des- 
tined markets,  fleets  of  hundreds  of  vessels  come  up  to  the  city,  where 
there  is  a broad  expanse  of  deep  water  with  tides  rising  over  16  ft. 

The  Theological  Seminary  was  chartered  by  the  State  of  Mass,  in  1814, 
and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Congregational  Church,  though  its  teaching 
is  non-sectarian  orthodoxy.  It  occupies  buildings  fronting  on  a broad 
campus,  in  the  highest  part  of  the  city,  and  has  5 professors,  40  - 50 
students,  and  about  600  alumni,  with  a library  of  13,000  volumes.  No- 
rumbega  Hall  is  on  the  Kenduskeag  Bridge,  and  pertains  to  the  city ; its 
lower  portion  being  used  as  a market,  while  in  the  upper  hall  2,000 
persons  can  be  seated. 

It  is  said  that  Champlain  ascended  the  Penobscot  as  far  as  the  site  of  Bangor, 
in  1608.  The  settlement  was  made  between  1769  and  1775,  and  in  1791  Rev.  Seth 
Noble,  its  representative,  was  ordered  by  the  people  to  have  it  incorporated  under 
the  name  of  Sunbury.  Mr.  Noble,  however,  was  very  fond  of  the  old  tune  of 
“Bangor,”  and  (perhaps  inadvertently)  had  that  name  given  to  the  new  town.  In 
1814  the  town  was  taken  by  a British  squadron,  after  the  destruction  of  the  “John 
Adams  ” ; in  1833  it  became  a city  ; and  in  1848  it  was  declared  a port  of  entry. 
The  2d  Maine  regiment  was  raised  in  1861  around  Bangor,  and  received  superb 
colors  from  the  ladies  of  New  York,  Baltimore,  and  San  Francisco.  The  latter 
flag  was  the  finest  in  the  army,  and  was  the  centre  of  a terrific  fight  at  Bull  Run, 
in  which  the  color-guards  were  all  killed,  and  the  opposing  regiment  (the  7th 
Georgia)  was  “nearly  annihilated.”  The  flag  was  not  lost,  and  the  regiment  was 
the  last  on  the  field.  At  Gaines’  Mill  this  command  took  the  5th  Alabama  flags, 
and  at  Fredericksburg  it  lost  ^ of  its  rank  and  file. 

Glenburn  (Perch  House ) is  10  M.  N.  of  Bangor,  on  Pushaw  Pond,  which  has 
considerable  local  fame  for  its  fine  fishing. 


48.  Boston  to  Bangor.  The  Penobscot  Itiver. 

By  Sanford’s  Independent  Line  of  steamers,  leaving  Boston,  Monday,  Tues- 
day, Thursday,  and  Friday,  at  5 p.  m.  (time-table  of  1872).  Boston  to  Rockland 
$2.00  ; to  Bangor,  $3.00. 

By  Route  37  or  38  to  Portland,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  Bangor  (Portland  to 
Bangor,  $2.50);  or  by  Routes  37  (or  38)  and  44  to  Rockland,  and  thence  up  the 
river  by  steamer. 

Ill  calm  weather  the  outside  route  is  very  pleasant.  The  steamer 
passes  down  Boston  Harbor  (see  page  20)  and  out  on  the  open  sea,  ap- 
proaching Cape  Ann  and  Thacher’s  Island  (Route  36)  at  late  twilight. 
The  early  riser  next  morning  will  see  the  bold  shores  of  Monhegan  Island, 
far  out  in  the  ocean.  This  island  was  settled  in  1618,  and  had  a stirring 
history  for  more  than  a century,  but  now  has  only  a few  score  of  inhab- 
itants, mostly  engaged  in  the  deep-sea  fisheries,  or  wringing  scanty  crops 
from  the  rugged  thousand  acres  on  the  bluffs.  The  steamer  now  passes 
in  by  the  historic  peninsulas  of  Knox  County,  leaves  Vinalhaven  on  the 
E.,  and  rounding  Owl’s  Head,  reaches  Rockland,  175  M.  from  Boston 
(see  Route  44).  The  Tuesday  and  Friday  steamers  here  connect  closely 


BELFAST. 


Route  48.  317 


with  the  steamer  for  Mt.  Desert.  After  leaving  Rockland,  and  passing 
Rockport  on  the  1.,  the  steamer  approaches  a chain  of  lofty  hills,  and 
enters  the  harbor  of  Camden  (*  Ray  Vieiv  House , 100  guests,  $2.00  a 
day  ; West  Mt.  Home).  This  is  a pretty  town,  with  5 villages,  4,500  in- 
habitants, and  9 churches.  It  was  visited  by  De  Monts  in  1604,  and  by 
Weymouth  in  1605,  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord  Camden,  America’s 
friend  in  Parliament,  and  was  fortified  in  1812  to  check  the  British  at 
Castine.  Pring  coasted  by  this  place  in  1603,  and  reported  it  “ a high 
country,  full  of  great  woods,”  and  such  it  still  is.  The  two  Megunticook 
peaks  rise  back  of  the  town  to  the  height,  respectively,  of  1,335  and  1,457 
ft.,  while  Mts.  Pleasant,  Batty,  Hosmer,  and  others  complete  the  group. 
The  * view  from  Megunticook  is  one  of  the  noblest  of  marine  prospects, 
embracing  the  blue  Penobscot  Bay  with  its  archipelago,  Mt.  Desert  far  in 
the  E.  and  a vast  sweep  of  the  ocean  on  the  S.  E. 

The  steamer  runs  N.  for  18  M.  between  the  shores  of  Lincolnville  and 
Northport,  and  the  insular  town  of  Islesborougli,  and  stops  at  Belfast 
( American  House  ; New  England  House).  This  is  a handsome  little 
city  (5,278  inhabitants)  built  on  a declivity  which  slopes  to  the  water, 
with  wide,  shady  streets,  and  several  commercial  blocks  built  of  brick. 
It  has  2 banks,  2 weekly  papers,  6 churches,  several  shipyards,  and  the 
Waldo  County  buildings. 

This  port  was  discovered  by  Weymouth  in  1605,  who  set  up  a cross  (Anglican) 
here,  and  wrote  that  “many  who  had  been  travellers  in  sundry  countries  and  in 
most  famous  rivers,  affirmed  them  not  comparable  to  this,  — the  most  beautiful, 
rich,  large,  secure,  harboring  river  that  the  world  affordeth.”  Belfast  was  settled 
and  named  in  1770  by  Scotch-Irish  Presbyterians  from  Londonderry  (N.  H.),  and 
was  abandoned  in  1779,  after  attacks  by  the  British  at  Castine.  It  was  resettled 
in  1786,  and  invested  by  the  British  in  1814.  In  1865,  a destructive  lire  swept 
over  its  business  quarter,  and  between  1860  and  1870  its  population  decreased  by 
250. 

Castine  is  seen  far  across  the  bay  to  the  E.  as  the  steamer  runs  up  7 
M.  to  Sear  sport  (small  hotel),  a maritime  town  with  nearly  3,000  inhabi- 
tants, under  the  lee  of  Brigadier  Island. 

Passing  out  into  the  bay,  with  the  historic  peninsula  of  Pentagoet 
(Castine)  on  the  E.,  the  bold  shore  of  Fort  Point  is  soon  reached.  Here, 
in  1758-9,  Gov.  Pownall  erected  a powerful  fort  for  the  defence  of  the 
Penobscot.  It  was  the  best  fort  in  Maine,  and  its  construction  was  paid 
for  by  Parliament.  The  British  frigate  “ Canseau  ” partly  demolished  it  in 
1775,  and  in  1779  Capt.  Cargill,  of  the  American  army,  finished  its  de- 
struction. Some  remains  of  the  fort  are  still  visible,  and  near  it  is  a fine 
new  summer  hotel,  which  commands  broad  views  down  Penobscot  Bay. 
The  steamer  stops  here,  with  the  tall  lighthouse  (87  ft.  high)  in  view,  and 
a white  village  of  Stockton  in  the  cove  to  the  W. 

Now  steaming  N.,  Wetmore  Island  is  passed  on  the  r.  (a  barren  tract 
with  about  400  inhabitants  who  live  by  fishing  and  hunting),  and  the 


318  Route  49. 


OLDTOWN. 


river  seems  to  end,  so  rapidly  does  it  contract.  As  the  swift  tides  of 
Bucksport  Narrows  are  entered,  a sudden  turn  reveals  the  bright  village 
of  Bucksport  (. Robinson  House  ; Riverside  House ),  a shipbuilding  and 
fishing  place  with  3,433  inhabitants.  This  town  was  settled  by  Col. 
Buck,  of  Haverhill,  in  1764,  and  now  has  two  banks,  a custom  house, 
several  churches,  and  a lucrative  county  trade.  On  the  hill  above  the 
village  is  the  E.  Maine  Conference  Seminary,  a Methodist  School  with 
3 - 400  students,  from  whose  lawn  beautiful  river- views  are  afforded.  On 
the  bluff  opposite  Bucksport  is  Fort  Knox,  an  immense  and  costly  forti- 
fication lately  built  by  the  U.  S.,  which  completely  commands  the  river 
with  its  heavy  batteries. 

Stages  run  from  Bucksport  to  Mt.  Desert  (see  Route  45),  in  about  30  M.,  pass- 
ing through  Ellsworth.  {American  House),  a city  of  5,260  inhabitants,  the  capi- 
tal of  Hancock  County. 

The  river  now  grows  more  narrow  and  picturesquely  sinuous,  while 
vessels  are  frequently  passed.  Winterport  (Commercial  House)  is  reached 

5 M.  above  Bucksport,  after  passing  Mt.  Waldo  and  the  granite-producing 
shores  of  Frankfort  on  the  W.  7 M.  beyond,  the  steamer  stops  at  Hamp- 
den (Penobscot  House),  where  the  U.  S.  corvette  “John  Adams,”  24,  was 
attacked  (while  refitting)  in  1814  by  a small  British  fleet.  Capt.  Morris, 
of  the  “Adams,”  had  armed  shore-batteries  with  liis  ship’s  guns,  but  the 
badly  officered  rural  militia  were  speedily  routed  by  a bayonet-charge  of 
the  British  regulars.  Morris  then  spiked  his  gilns,  blew  up  his  ship,  and 
retreated  with  the  sailors  to  Bangor.  The  British  plundered  and  overran 
Hampden  for  3 days.  Soon  after  leaving  Hampden,  the  steamer  reaches 
(about  noon)  the  city  of  Bangor  (see  Route  47). 

49.  Bangor  to  St.  John. 

By  the  European  and  North  American  Railway,  205£  M.  Passengers  on  the 
through  train  from  Boston  (by  Routes  37  and  47)  make  their  first  and  only  change 
of  cars  here. 

Seats  on  the  r.  side  of  the  car  afford  views  of  the  river.  After  leaving 
Bangor,  the  train  passes  Veazie  and  other  stations,  with  the  river  covered 
with  booms  and  immense  rafts  of  timber,  and  lined  with  saw-mills.  Sta- 
tions, Orono  (the  seat  of  the  State  Agricultural  College),  and  Oldtown 
(two  inns),  a place  of  about  4,000  inhabitants,  mostly  engaged  in  the 
lumber  business.  The  immense  and  costly  booms  and  mills  should  be 
noticed  here.  Oldtown  has  the  largest  lumber-mill  in  the  world,  where 
100  saws  are  at  work  turning  the  rude  logs  which  come  in  at  one  side  into 
planks,  which  are  rafted  away  to  Bangor.  On  an  island  near  the  village 
(ferry-boat  on  the  shore)  is  the  home  of  the  Tarratine  Indians,  one  of  the 
three  tribes  of  the  Etchemin  nation.  Though  the  most  powerful  and  war- 
like of  the  northern  tribes,  the  Tarratines  rarely  attacked  the  colonists. 


FREDERICTON. 


Route  49-  319 


After  a series  of  wrongs  and  insults  from  the  whites,  they  attacked  the 
settlements  in  1678,  and  inflicted  such  terrible  damage  and  loss  of  life 
that  Maine  became  tributary  to  them  by  the  Peace  of  Casco.  After  de- 
stroying Pemaquid  to  avenge  an  insult  to  their  chief  St.  Castin,  they  re- 
mained quiet  for  many  years.  The  treaty  of  1726  contains  the  substance 
of  their  present  relations  with  the  State.  They  own  the  islands  in  the 
Penobscot,  and  have  a revenue  of  $6-7,000  from  the  State,  which  the 
men  eke  out  by  working  on  the  lumber  rafts,  by  hunting  and  fishing, 
while  the  women  make  baskets  and  other  trifles  for  sale.  The  declension 
of  the  tribe  was  marked  for  two  centuries;  but  it  is  now  slowly  increasing. 
The  island-village  is  without  streets,  and  consists  of  many  small  houses 
built  around  a Catholic  church.  There  are  over  400  persons  there,  most 
of  whom  are  half-breeds. 

At  Oldtown  the  line  crosses  the  Penobscot  on  a high  bridge,  and  enters 
Milford , a lumbering  village.  The  1.  bank  of  the  Penobscot  River  is  now 
followed  for  45  M.  to  Mattawamkeag , through  a succession  of  thinly  popu- 
lated towns,  Greenbush,  Passadumkeag,  Enfield,  Lincoln,  and  Winn, 
whose  inhabitants  are  mostly  engaged  in  lumbering.  Mattawamkeag  (two 
inns)  is  a small  village  at  the  confluence  of  two  rivers. 

Stages  run  38  M.  N.  through  the  wilderness  to  Patten  (small  inn),  the  outpost 
of  civilization  nearest  to  Mt.  Katahdin,  a lone  peak  which  rises  out  of  the  wilder- 
ness to  a height  of  5,385  ft. 

Stages  also  run  N.  E.  through  the  forest,  crossing  8 townships,  to  Houlton. 
Stages  run  from  Lincoln  to  Springfield,  Carroll,  Topsfield,  and  Calais. 

The  railway  now  follows  the  Mattawamkeag  River,  and  runs  through 
the  forest  (almost  unbroken)  for  58  M.  to  Vanceboro  (Chiputneticook 
House  ; restaurant  in  the  station).  Weston  is  a pOst-town  on  the  Calais 
and  Houlton  mail-stage  line,  with  400  inhabitants  and  a hotel.  This  point, 
which  may  be  reached  from  Bancroft  or  Danforth,  is  near  the  shore  of  the 
Grand  Schoodic  Lake,  where  fine  fishing  is  afforded.  Vanceboro  has  good 
trouting  on  the  St.  Croix  River,  and  soon  after  leaving  this  village  the 
train  crosses  the  St.  Croix  and  enters  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick. 
At  Me  Adam  Junction  the  New  Brunswick  and  Canada  Railroad  is  crossed, 
and  the  train  passes  on  through  a monotonous  wilderness  to  Douglas  Mt. , 
inWelsford,  beyond  which  the  St.  John  Valley  is  entered,  and  the  river 
is  followed  down  to  St.  John,  91  M.  from  Vanceboro. 

By  changing  cars  at  Fredericton  Junction , travellers  pass  in  1 hr.  to 
Fredericton  (Queen's  Hotel;  Barker's).  Fredericton  is  a small  city  of 
8,000  inhabitants,  beautifully  situated  on  the  St.  John  River,  and  distin- 
guished as  the  political  capital  of  the  Province.  The  Government  House 
is  a plain  and  dignified  stone  building  in  extensive  grounds  just  N.  of  the 
city,  and  the  Parliament  House  is  an  inferior  structure  near  the  deserted 
barracks.  The  University  of  New  Brunsivick  has  fine  buildings  on  a com- 
manding hill  near  the  city,  and  the  Exhibition  Building  (near  the  railway 


320  Route  49. 


ST.  JOHN. 


station)  is  worthy  of  notice.  * Christ  Church  Cathedral  (Episcopal)  is 
one  of  the  finest  on  the  continent,  though  small.  It  is  of  gray  stone,  in 
English  Gothic  architecture,  and  has  a stone  spire,  178  ft.  high,  rising 
from  the  junction  of  the  nave  and  transepts.  The  interior  is  beautiful, 
and  the  chancel  has  a superb  window  of  Newcastle  stained  glass,  pre- 
sented by  the  Episcopal  church  in  the  United  States.  In  the  centre  is 
Christ  crucified,  with  SS.  John,  James,  and  Peter  on  the  1.,  and  SS. 
Thomas,  Philip,  and  Andrew  on  the  r.  In  the  church  tower  is  a chime 
of  8 bells,  each  inscribed, 

“ Ave,  Pater,  Rex,  Creator,  Ave,  Simplex,  Ave,  Trine, 

Ave,  Fili,  Lux,  Salvator,  Ave,  Regnans  in  Sublime, 

Ave  Spiritus  Consolator,  Ave  Resonet  sine  fine, 

Ave  Beata  Unitas.  Ave  Sancta  Trinitas.” 

The  St.  John  River. 

When  there  is  water  enough  in  the  river,  steamers  ascend  the  St.  John  River  to 
Woodstock,  62  M.  N.  W.,  and  near  Houlton.  Steamers  leave  Fredericton  for  St. 
John  at  8 a.  m.,  arriving  there  at  3 p.  m.  Distance,  about  90  M.  ; fare,  $1.50. 
The  steamers  run  only  on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  (in  1872),  leaving  St. 
J ohn  the  alternate  days,  at  8 a.  m. 

As  the  steamer  passes  into  the  stream,  a beautiful  view  of  the  capital 
city,  with  its  Cathedral  and  University,  is  obtained.  On  the  opposite 
shore  is  the  mouth  of  the  Nashwaak  River,  where  stood  a fort  which  was 
a centre  of  siege  250  years  ago.  11  M.  below,  the  village  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Oromocto  River  is  passed,  and  the  lofty  spire  of  Burton  church  is  soon 
after  seen  on  the  r.  The  boat  stops  at  Sheffield,  with  its  large  academy, 
and  passes  Maugerville,  which  was  settled  by  Bostonians  in  1766.  Gage- 
town  is  next  seen,  on  a bluff  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  River,  and 
in  a rich  farming  country.  Numerous  islands  are  passed,  and  broad  in- 
tervales stretch  back  from  the  shores.  The  steamer  soon  enters  the  Long 
Reach,  which  is  followed  for  20  M. , passing  the  mouth  of  the  Nerepis 
River,  with  its  fortified  point,  abandoned  for  two  centuries.  At  Grand 
Bay  the  scenery  grows  nobler,  and  the  broad  estuary  of  the  Kennebecasis 
River  opens  to  the  E.  with  fine  effect.  A narrow  channel  between  pic- 
turesque palisades  is  now  entered,  and  followed  on  swift  waters,  until  a 
glimpse  of  the  Suspension  Bridge  is  gained  on  the  r.  as  the  steamer  rounds 
to  her  pier  at  Indiantown,  a suburb  of 

St.  John. 

Hotels. — ^Victoria  Hotel,  300  guests,  $3.00  (Canadian)  a day;  Rothesay 
House  ; Barnes  House  ; Waverly  House  ; American  House. 

Carriages. — 20c.  a course  in  the  city;  25c.  each  half-hour.  Horse-Cars  to 
Indiantown,  fare  5c. 

Railways. — To  Fredericton,  Bangor,  and  Boston ; to  Woodstock,  Houlton, 
and  St.  Andrews  ; to  Shediac,  Halifax,  and  Windsor. 

Steamers. — To  Eastport,  Portland,  and  Boston  ; to  Digby  and  Annapolis  ; to 
Yarmouth  and  Shelburne  ; to  Halifax  ; to  Fredericton  and  Woodstock. 


THE  NEW  BRUNSWICK  BORDER.  Route  50.  321 


St.  John,  the  metropolis  of  New  Brunswick,  is  a city  of  29,000  inhabi- 
tants, situated  on  a rocky  promontory  between  the  St.  John  River  and 
Courtnay  Bay.  Its  situation  on  high  hills  renders  it  very  picturesque, 
either  from  within  or  as  seen  from  the  harbor.  The  streets  are  broad  and 
straight,  and  King’s  and  Queen’s  Squares  and  other  open  grounds  diversify 
the  surface  of  the  hills.  The  city  has  some  manufactures  and  a large 
coast  and  country  trade,  and  its  water-front  is  worthy  of  a visit.  There 
are  8 Episcopal  Churches,  3 Catholic,  9 Baptist,  6 Methodist,  7 Presby- 
terian, and  1 Congregational.  The  Custom  House,  the  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
building,  the  Orphan  Asylum,  the  Rink,  and  the  City  Hospital  are  good 
buildings.  The  Catholic  Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Conception  (PI.  8) 
is  a large  stone  structure  with  a lofty  spire,  and  with  stained  glass 
windows  in  chancel,  transept,  and  aisles.  The  ornaments  of  the  choir  in 
colored  marble  are  worthy  of  notice.  Near  the  Cathedral  is  the  Bishop’s 
Palace,  and  some  convent-schools.  From  this  vicinity  Reed’s  Castle  is 
seen,  whence  a fine  view  of  the  city  and  harbor  is  obtained.  Lily  Lake  is 
near  the  castle. 

The  favorite  drives  are  out  over  Marsh  Bridge  to  Red  Head ; to  the 
Cemetery  and  Loch  Lomond;  and  over  the  Suspension  Bridge  to  the 
heights  of  Carleton.  The  * Bridge  is  640  ft.  long  and  100  ft.  above  low 
water,  and  affords  a fine  view  of  the  St.  John  Falls,  where  the  river  dashes 
down  at  low  tide  through  a narrow  gorge.  At  high  tide  is  presented  the 
remarkable  sight  of  a river  falling  up  stream,  when  the  tides  of  the  Bay 
of  Fundy  rush  upward  through  the  gorge  far  above  the  river  level. 
From  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  or  from  the  Martello  Tower  on  Carleton 
Heights,  a panoramic  view  of  the  city,  the  bay,  and  the  remote  purple 
line  of  the  Nova  Scotia  shore,  is  given.  The  Mahogany  road  is  a pleasant 
drive  near  the  Bay. 

Champlain  discovered  and  named  the  St.  John  River  on  St.  John’s  Day,  1604. 
In  1635  Charles  St.  Estienne,  Lord  of  La  Tour,  built  a fort  here,  which  was  vainly 
attacked  by  D’Aulney  in  1643,  the  siege  being  raised  by  Massachusetts  ships 
attacking  D’Aulney.  During  the  absence  of  La  Tour  in  1645,  the  fort  (under 
command  of  Madame  La  Tour)  repulsed  a naval  attack,  but  was  forced,  later  in 
the  year,  to  surrender.  Madame  La  Tour  was  made  to  stand  with  a rope  around 
her  neck,  while  the  whole  garrison  was  massacred.1  She  died  within  a few 
days,  and  D’Aulney  soon  followed  her.  La  Tour  married  Madame  D’Aulney  in 
1653,  and  thus  rewon  his  fort.  It  was  soon  captured  by  the  English,  and  left 
desolate  for  a century.  In  1758  a British  garrison  was  established  here,  and  in 
1776  the  men  of  Machias  destroyed  the  fort  and  cannonaded  the  neighboring 
village.  In  1783  a fleet-full  of  loyalists  lrom  the  United  States  landed  and  settled 
here,  and  since  then  the  city  has  grown  rapidly. 

50.  The  New-Brunswick  Border,  Eastport  to  Madawaska. 

Eastport  may  be  reached  by  the  International  steamers,  which  leave  Boston  at 
8 a.  m.,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  (in  July,  Aug.,  and  Sept.),  and  Portland 
at  6p.  m.  on  the  same  days.  Boston  to  St.  John,  $5.00 ; Portland  to  Eastport, 
$4.00  (180  M.). 

1 See  Whittier’s  poem  of  “ St.  John.-’ 

14  * U 


322  Route  50. 


ST.  ANDREW. 


Stages  leave  Bangor  every  evening  for  Eastport,  which  is  125  M.  distant,  via 
Ellsworth  and  Machias.  Fare,  $ 10.00. 

Eastport  (*  Passamaquoddy  House)  is  the  coast  border-town,  and  has 
3,738  inhabitants.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a hilly  island  in  Passama- 
quoddy  Bay,  and  is  commanded  by  Fort  Sullivan,  a garrisoned  post  of  the 
U.  S.  The  bay  abounds  in  picturesque  islands,  the  chief  of  which  is 
Campo  Bello,  opposite  Eastport  and  within  the  Canadian  borders.  This 
island  is  often  visited  in  summer,  and  has  much  fine  ocean  scenery.  To 
the  S.  is  Quoddy  Head  and  the  Canadian  island  of  Grand  Menan  (1,800 
inhabitants),  22  M.  long  and  3-6  M.  wide,  with  its  western  shore  lined 
by  frowning  cliffs  3 - 400  ft.  high. 

Eastport  was  settled  in  1780,  and  was  captured  and  fortified  by  a British  fleet 
in  1814.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  Henry  Prince,  C.  H.  Smith,  and  N.  J.  T.  Dana, 
able  national  generals  during  the  Secession  War.  The  6tli  Maine  Infantry  gathered 
here  in  1861,  and  then  moved  away  to  Virginia,  where  it  was  engaged  in  10  pitched 
battles,  and  lost  over  300  men  by  death. 

Stages  and  steamers  run  30  M.'N.  W.  from  Eastport  to  Calais.  The 
steamer  moves  out  across  the  broad  and  island-studded  bay,  passing  on 
the  1.  Pleasant  Point  (in  Perry),  the  home  of  the  400  remaining  members 
of  the  Openango  tribe  of  the  Etchemin  nation  of  Indians.  The  first  stop- 
ping-place is  St.  Andrew  (with  a large  new  hotel  accommodating  300 
guests),  a decadent  maritime  provincial  town (3,000  inhabitants),  pleasantly 
situated  on  a long  promontory,  and  having  fine  facilities  for  bathing,  boat- 
ing, and  fishing.  St.  Andrew  is  the  shire-town  of  Charlotte  County,  N.  B., 
and  is  the  terminus  of  the  N.  B.  and  Canada  Railway.  Beyond  this  port  the 
bay  narrows  rapidly,  and  Neutral  Island  (with  its  lighthouse)  is  passed, 
opposite  Robbinston.  Henri  IV.  of  France  granted  Acadia  (an  indefinite 
district,  embracing  Nova  Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  and  as  much  more  as 
he  could  get)  to  the  Sieur  de  Monts  in  1602.  In  1604  the  grantee  brought 
over  a colony  (mostly  of  Huguenots)  and  settled  on  this  island,  which 
he  fortified  strongly.  During  the  mournful  winter  of  1604  - 5,  36  out  of 
70  of  the  colonists  died,  either  from  scurvy,  or  from  drinking  water 
poisoned  by  the  Indians.  Remains  of  De  Monts’  fort  may  be  seen  on  the 
island  (which  belongs  to  the  U.  S.).  Robbinston  village  is  now  touched  at, 
and  then  the  steamer  passes  up  by  Oak  Point  and  Devil’s  Head  to  Calais 
( International  Hotel ; St.  Croix  Exchange).  This  is  a city  of  about  6,000 
inhabitants,  with  2 banks,  2 weekly  papers,  and  6 churches.  It  was 
founded  in  1789,  and  has  a large  shipbuilding  and  lumber  business. 

A railway  runs  20  M.  N.  W.  from  Calais  to  Lewey’s  Island  (in  Princeton  ; two 
inns),  whence  the  picturesque  Schoodic  Lakes  may  be  entered.  The  steamer 
“ Gipsey”  runs  (irregularly,  for  lumbering  work)  on  Lewey’s,  Big,  and  Long  Lakes. 
There  is  a large  village  of  Passamaquoddy  Indians  on  one  of  these  lakes,  and 
hunting  and  fishing  parties  from  the  coast  cities  often  pass  the  summer  here, 
roughing  it  in  canoes  and  in  the  forest. 

Mail-stages  run  from  Calais  to  Eastport ; also  (daily)  through  the  vast  and  des- 
olate forest  to  Bangor,  95  M.  W.  ; fare,  §7.50  ; also  (from  Princeton)  to  Houlton. 


WOODSTOCK. 


Route  50.  323 


A covered  bridge  leads  from  Calais  to  St.  Stephen  ( Walker  House),  a 
bright  and  active  town  of  over  5,000  inhabitants.  The  citizens  of  Calais 
and  of  St.  Stephen  have  ever  lived  in  perfect  fraternity,  and  formed  and 
kept  an  agreement  by  which  they  refrained  from  mutual  hostility  during 
the  War  of  1812. 

From  this  point  the  N.  B.  and  Canada  Railway  runs  W.  through  the 
forest  (crossing  Route  49  at  McAdam  Junction)  to  Debec,  74  M.  distant, 
whence  a branch  road  runs  (in  11  M.)  to  Woodstock,  the  shire-town  of 
Carleton  County,  N.  B.  This  town  has  4,000  inhabitants,  and  is  pleas- 
antly situated  on  the  St.  John  River,  150  M.  from  its  mouth.  Stages  run 
through  Tobique  to  Grand  Falls,  where  the  river  is  contracted  into  a 
narrow  gorge  between  lofty  cliffs,  and  plunges  over  a succession  of  rocky 
steps,  the  first  leap  being  40  ft.  perpendicular.  Tri-weekly  stages  run 
from  this  point  through  the  French  settlements  at  Madawaska,  to  Riviere 
du  Loup,  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River  (see  Route  56). 

From  Debec  a branch  railroad  runs  N.  W.  8 M.  to  Koulton  (Snell 
House  ; Buzzell  House),  the  shire-town  of  Aroostook  County,  Maine,  with 
a population  of  2,851,  2 weekly  papers,  and  5 churches.  Houlton  is  456 

M.  (by  railway)  from  Boston,  and  has  stage-routes  running  to  all  parts  of 

N.  E.  Maine. 

Stages  run  S.  through  Hodgdon,  Amity,  Orient,  Weston  (30  M.),  and  Topsfield, 
to  Calais  ; through  Linneus,  Macwahoc,  and  Molunkus,  to  Mattawamkeag ; to 
Smyrna,  Rockabema,  and  Patten  (W.)  ; by  Littleton,  Monticello,  Bridgewater 
(dinner  at  Half-Way  House),  Mars  Hill  (1,700  ft.  high),  and  Easton,  to  Presque 
Isle. 

Presque  Isle  (small  hotel)  is  a forest  village,  with  nearly  1,000  inhab- 
itants, a weekly  paper  (the  “ Presque  Isle  Sunrise  ”),  4 churches,  and  an 
academy.  This  is  one  of  the  centres  of  the  rich  farming  lands  of  Aroos- 
took County,  which  cover  over  500,000  acres,  and  are  being  taken  up 
rapidly  by  settlers,  induced  by  their  variety,  fertility,  and  cheapness. 
Two  fine  national  roads  cross  this  district,  — the  Aroostook,  from  Matta- 
wamkeag to  Fort  Kent,  and  the  Military  Road  through  Houlton  to  Van 
Buren.  Many  Swedes  are  settling  here,  while  Madawaska  is  a populous 
French  district. 

Stages  run  from  Presque  Isle  to  Houlton,  Washburn,  and  Dalton  ; the  latter 
road  passing  W.  by  the  Allagash  Mts.  to  the  Lake  of  Seven  Isles,  a little  above 
the  head  of  tow-boat  navigation  on  the  St.  John  River  and  over  80  M.  from  Dal- 
ton. This  road  passes  through  the  heart  of  the  great  forest.  “The  primeval 
woods  of  Maine  still  cover  an  extent  seven  times  that  of  the  famous  Black  Forest 
of  Germany  at  its  largest  expanse  in  modern  times.  The  States  of  R.  I.,  Conn., 
and  Delaware  could  be  lost  together  in  our  northern  forests,  and  still  have  about 
each  a margin  of  wilderness  sufficiently  wide  to  make  the  exploration  without  a 
compass  a work  of  desperate  adventure.” 

Fort  Fairfield  (small  hotel)  is  on  the  frontier,  on  the  road  running  E.  from 
Presque  Isle  to  Tobique  (N.  B.)  on  the  St.  John  River.  It  has  nearly  2,000  in- 
habitants, with  5 churches. 

Stages  run  on  the  Military  Road,  to  Fort  Kent,  84  M.  N.  W.  of  Presque 


324  Route  50. 


MADAWASKA. 


Isle.  This  route  crosses  and  follows  the  Aroostook  RiVer  to  Caribcu,  and 
then  runs  for  20  M.  through  the  forest  to  Van  Buren  (two  inns),  a semi- 
French  settlement  (1,000  inhabitants)  on  the  St.  John,  and  near  the 
Grand  Falls.  The  road  now  turns  N.  W.  and  follows  the  St.  John  15  M. 
to  Grant  Isle , a French  village,  10  M.  beyond  which  is  Madawaska 
(Fournier’s  inn),  a village  belonging  to  a large  district  which  has  long 
been  inhabited  by  Acadian  French,  who  were  expelled  from  Nova  Scotia 
(Acadie)  in  1755.  There  are  several  thousand  of  these  Catholic  and 
“ pious  Acadian  peasants,”  divided  into  4 parishes,  and  here  the  tourist 
may  perhaps  find  an  “ Evangeline.”  (The  poem  has  been  translated  into 
Canadian  French,  and  is  popular.)  Madawaska  and  the  Eagle  Lakes  lie 
S.  of  this  village,  which  is  100  M.  N.  of  Houlton.  26  M.  beyond  (the 
stage  following  the  St.  John  River,  and  passing  through  Dionne),  Fort 
Kent,  with  its  two  inns  and  ruined  block-house,  is  reached.  The  popula- 
tion is  still  French,  and  20  M.  W.  is  St.  Francis , another  Acadian  village. 
(Stages  run  occasionally. ) 

Fort  Kent  is  194  M.  from  Bangor,  and  440  M.  from  Boston. 


NEW  YORK  CITY  TO  THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 

Having  described  New  England  and  her  eastern  frontier  in  the  50  pre- 
ceding routes,  it  has  been  thought  advisable  to  add  thereto  a brief  survey 
of  those  most  interesting  regions  which  lie  on  the  west  and  north  of  her 
borders.  The  tourist  might  easily  arrange  a profitable  and  pleasant  sum- 
mer-trip, by  taking  either  of  the  Routes,  3,  8,  19,  or  21,  to  New  York, 
thence  ascending  the  Hudson  to  Albany,  and  passing  to  Montreal  by  way 
of  Saratoga  and  Lakes  George  and  Champlain,  whence  Quebec  and  the 
Saguenay  are  easily  reached  ; and  the  return  to  Boston  could  be  effected  by 
either  of  the  Routes,  24  (and  25)  or  40  (and  37' or  38.) 


Route  51. 

52. 

53. 

54. 

55. 

56. 


New  York  City  and  its  Environs. 

New  York  to  Albany.  The  Hudson  River. 

Albany  to  Montreal.  Saratoga  and  Lake  George. 
Montreal  and  its  Environs. 

Montreal  to  Quebec.  The  St.  Lawrence  River. 
Quebec.  The  Saguenay  River. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  51.  325 


51.  Few  York  City. 

Arrival. —The  railway-station  (Boston  line)  is  on  4th  Ave.,  corner  of  42d 
St.  Horse-cars  run  thence  down  4th  Ave.  to  Union  Square,  and  through  the 
Bowery  to  the  City  Hall  Park  and  Astor  House.  The  piers  of  the  three  steam- 
boat lines  are  on  the  Hudson  River. 

Hotels.  — The  * Fifth  Avenue,  on  Madison  Square  (8  - 900  guests),  a vast  and 
superb  marble  building  ; the  *St.  Nicholas,  on  Broadway,  corner  of  Spring  St.,  a 
marble  building  in  the  Corinthian  order,  six  stories  high,  cost  $1,000,000,  and  cares 
for  1,000  guests  ; the  * Metropolitan,  on  Broadway,  corner  of  Prince,  is  of  brown- 
stone,  six  stories  high,  and  cost  nearly  $ 1,000,000  ; the  * Grand\]entral,  on  Broad- 
way between  Amity  and  Bleecker  Sts.,  eight  stories  high,  of  marble,  and  accom- 
modating 1,500  guests  ; Hoffman  House,  on  Madison  Square,  an  aristocratic  house, 
caring  for  350  guests ; Gramercy  Park  House,  on  Gramercy  Park,  an  immense 
family  hotel,  with  room  for  6 - 800  guests ; Grand  Hotel,  corner  Broadway  and 
31st  St.,  an  elegant  first-class  house.  These  immense  hotels  are  amply  supplied 
with  all  the  luxuries  of  modern  American  civilization.  Their  charges  are  from 
$4.00  to  $5.00  a day,  with  considerable  reductions  in  case  of  a long  sojourn. 
There  are  several  first-class  hotels  on  Union  Square  : the  Everett  (European  plan) ; 
the  Clarendon,  patronized  by  English  tourists  ; the  Union  Square  ; the  Spingler  ; 
the  Union  Place,  &c.  The  New  York  Hotel,  721  Broadway,  is  a resort  for 
Southern  visitors  ; the  Prescott  House,  531  Broadway,  accommodates  300  guests 
and  is  much  frequented  by  foreign  tourists ; so  is  also  the  palatial  St.  Denis 
Hotel,  on  Broadway  opposite  Grace  Church.  The  St.  Cloud  (corner  of  Broadway 
and  42d  St.)  is  the  best  up-town  hotel ; the  Gilsey  House  (Broadway  and  29th  St.) 
and  the  St.  James  (Broadway  and  26th  St.)  are  also  fine  hotels  above  Madison 
Square.  The  Merchants’,  National,  and  Western  are  on  Cortlandt  St.,  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  city,  and  are  patronized  by  business  men.  The  * Astor  House 
(on  Broadway,  opposite  the  Post  Office)  is  kept  on  the  European  plan,  as  are  also 
the  Brandreth  (corner  of  Broadway  and  Canal  St.),  the  Westminster  (corner 
Irving  Place  and  16th  St.),  the  Belvidere  (Irving  Place  and  15th  St.),  the  Irving 
(Broadway  and  12th  St.),  the  Brevoort  (5th  Ave.  and  8th  St.),  the  Albemarle,  &c. 
French’s,  Leggett’s,  Sweeny’s,  and  the  Cosmopolitan  are  near  the  City  Hall  Park. 
Rooms  may  be  obtained  at  the  European  plan  hotels  for  from  $ 1 to  $ 3 a day, 
with  meals  a la  carte  within  the  house  or  elsewhere.  For  a tourist  who  is  to 
make  but  a short  visit  to  New  York  these  houses  will  be  found  more  commodious 
and  less  expensive  then  those  on  the  American  plan.  There  are  about  140  other 
hotels  in  the  city,  several  of  which  are  first-class.  The  Stevens  House  is  on  Broad- 
way near  the  Battery ; and  the  Grand  Union,  opposite  the  Grand  Central  depot 
(42d  St.)  is  conveniently  situated  for  passengers  arriving  by  late  trains  from  New 
England  or  the  North. 

Restaurants.  — * Delmonico’s,  corner  5th  Ave.  and  14th  St.,  the  best  in 
America  (with  branch  establishments  down  town,  at  the  corner  of  Broadway  and 
Chambers  St.,  and  on  Broad  St.  near  Wall)  ; Parker’s,  on  Broadway  near  34th  St., 
is  frequented  by  ladies;  also^  Bigot’s,  on  14th  St.,  near  Broadway;  Geyer’s,  734 
and  736  Broadway,  is  a large  and  favorite  restaurant ; Solari,  corner  of  University 
Place  and  11th  St.,  prepares  elaborate  late  dinners.  Iauch  (864  Broadway)  and 
Bergman  (1,121  Broadway)  keep  ladies’  restaurants,  which  are  much  frequented  ; 
Arnaud  (815  Broadway)  is  famous  for  fine  French  candies ; and  Purssell’s  (910 
Broadway)  is  a favorite  lunch-saloon  for  the  up-town  ladies.  At  39  Park  Row, 
and  at  Leggett’s  Hotel  are  large  eating-houses  for  down-town  merchants. 

The  cafes  and  restaurants  attached  to  the  large  hotels  on  the  European  plan  are 
generally  well  kept,  and  are  much  visited  by  ladies.  The  Astor  House  has  one 
of  the  best  of  these.  Oysters  may  be  found  in  every  variety  in  the  small  saloons 
in  Fulton  Market.  Maillard’s  (621  Broadway)  is  famous  for  fine  confectionery 
and  chocolate.  New  England  dishes  are  served  at  Pearson’s,  on  Cortlandt  near 
Greenwich  St. 

Consuls.  — English,  17  Broadway  ; German,  117  Broadway  ; French,  4 Bowling 
Green  ; Italian,  7 Broadway  ; Austrian,  33  Broadway ; Russian,  52  Exchange 
Place  ; Swedish,  18  Exchange  Place  ; Spanish,  20  Broadway  ; Swiss,  23  John  St. 

Reading  Rooms.  — In  all  the  chief  hotels  (for  guests)  ; Y.  M.  C.  Association, 
corner  23d  St.  and  4th  Ave.,  also  at  285  Hudson  St.,  473  Grand  St.,  and  2S5 


326  Route  51. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Bleecker  St.  Astor  Library,  Lafayette  Place,  open  9£-5;  City  Library,  City 
Hall,  open  free  to  all,  10-4  ; * Cooper  Union,  corner  7tli  St.  and  4tli  Ave.,  open 
from  8 a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  ; Woman’s  Library,  open  9-4  ($  1.50  a year)  ; N.  Y.  His- 
torical Society,  corner  11th  St.  and  2d.  Ave. 

Post  Office,  corner  of  Cedar  and  Nassau  Sts.,  open  continuously  except 
Sundays,  when  it  is  only  open  between  9 and  11  a.  m.  ; eight  deliveries  of  letters 
daily  ; the  Eastern  mails  close  at  .5  a.  m.,  1.30  p.  m.,  and  6 p.  m. 

Carriages. —For  one  passenger  for  a distance  of  1 M.  or  less,  50c.  : two 
passengers,  75  c.  ; for  one  passenger  for  more  than  1 and  less  than  2 M.,  75  c.’;  and 
for  each  additional  passenger,  37£  c.  ; “use  of  a hackney  coach  or  carriage  by  the 
day,  with  1 or  more  passengers,  $5.00”;  by  the  hour,  stopping  as  often  as  re- 
quired, $1.00.  No  extra  charge  is  allowed  for  one  trunk  or  box  ; children  between 
2 and  14  years  of  age  pay  half-price.  A tariff  of  fares  is  (or  should  be)  hung  in 
each  carriage,  but  the  drivers  frequently  attempt  to  extort  undue  sums  from  their 
passengers.  In  such  cases,  since  the  hackmen  of  New  York  are  the  most  ruf- 
fianly of  their  class  in  the  world,  an  instant  appeal  should  be  made  to  the  first 
policeman  who  may  be  seen. 

Omnibuses  (called  “stages”)  run  (1)  from  Fulton  Ferry,  by  Broadway, 
University  Place,  13th,  and  5th  Ave.,  to  42d  St.,  returning  over  the  same  route  ; 
(2)  from  South  Ferry,  by  Broadway,  23d,  and  9th  Ave.,  to  30th  St.,  returning  the 
same  way  ; (3)  from  South  Ferry,  by  Broadway  and  4th  Ave.,  to  32d  St.  ; (4)  from 
South  Ferry,  by  Broadway  and  14tii  St.  to  Avenue  A.  ; (5)  from  South  Ferry,  by 
Broadway,  to  the  Erie  R.  R.  ferry  on  23d  St.  ; (6)  from  Wall  St.  Ferry,  by  Wall, 
Broadway,  23d,  and  Madison  Ave.,  to  40th  St.  ; (7)  from  Jersey  City  Ferry  (Cort- 
landt  St.)  by  Broadway,  Bleecker  St.,  Bowery,  and  2d.  St,  to  Houston  St.  Ferry. 
The  fare  on  these  lines  is  10  c. 

Horse-Cars. — The  fare  on  most  of  the  lines  is  5 c.  (1)  Park  Place  to 
Central  Park,  by  Church  and  Greene  Sts.  and  7th  Ave.  ; (2)  Astor  House  (Vesey 
St.)  to  Central  Park,  by  West  Broadway,  Yarick  St.,  and  6th  Ave.  ; (3)  Astor 
House  to  Central  Park,  by  Canal,  Hudson,  and  8th  Ave.  ; (4)  Astor  House  to 
Grand  Central  Depot  and  Harlem,  by  Park  Row,  Chatham  St.,  Bowery,  and  3d 
Ave.  ; (5)  Astor  House  to  Hunter’s  Point  Ferry,  by  Park  Row,  Centre,  Grand, 
Bowery,  4th  Ave.,  32d  and  34th  Sts.  ; (6)  Astor  House  to  34th  St.  Ferry,  by 
Chatham  St.,  East  Broadway,  Avenues  B.  and  A.,  and  1st.  Ave.  ; (7)  Astor 
House  to  86th  St.,  by  Centre,  Bowery,  4th  and  Madison  Aves.  ;•  (8)  corner 

Broadway  and  Canal  St.  to  43d  St.,  by  Varick  St.  and  6th  Ave.  ; (9)  corner 

Broadway  and  Canal  St.  to  Central  Park,  by  Canal,  Hudson,  and  8th  Ave.  ; (10) 
corner  Broadway  and  Ann  St.  through  Chatham,  East  Broadway,  Avenues  B. 
and  A.  ; (11)  corner  Broadway  and  Broome  to  Central  Park,  by  7th  Ave.  ; (12) 
corner  Broadway  and  Fulton  to  54tli  St.,  by  Greenwich  St.  and  9th  Ave.  ; (13) 
Peck  Slip  to  Harlem  (128th  St.),  by  Oliver  St.,  Bowery,  and  2d  Ave.  ; (14)  South 
Ferry  to  Central  Park,  by  West  St.  and  10th  Ave.  ; (15)  South  Ferry  to  Central 
Park,  by  the  East  River  Ferries,  1st  Ave.,  and  59th  St.  ; (16)  Fulton  Ferry 
through  Centre  and  Bleecker  Sts.  to  10th  Ave.  ; (17)  Grand  St.  Ferry  to  Des- 
brosses  St.  Ferry,  by  Grand  and  Vestry  Sts.  ; (18)  Grand  St.  Ferry  to  Cortlandt 
St.  Ferry ; (19)  Grand  St.  Ferry  to  42d  St.  (Weehawken)  Ferry ; (20)  corner 
Chambers  and  West  Sts.  to  42d  St.  Depot.  The  Elevated  Railway  runs  from 

Morris  St.,  on  Greenwich  St.  and  9th  Ave.  to  30th:  St.  The  track  is  supported 

by  iron  pillars  ; the  cars  are  drawn  by  small  locomotives ; and  the  stations  are 
at  Morris,  Dey,  Canal,  and  12th  Sts. 

Ferries. —To  Astoria,  from  92d  St.,  and  from  Peck  Slip;  to  Blackwell’s 
Island,  from  26th  St.  ; to  Brooklyn,  from  Whitehall,  Wall,  Fulton,  Roosevelt, 
Catharine,  Grand,  Jackson,  Houston,  and  James  Sts.  ; to  Governor’s  and  Bedloe’s 
Islands,  from  Pier  43,  N.  R.  ; to  Greenpoint,  from  10th  and  from  23d  Sts.  ; to 
Hunter’s  Point,  from  James  Slip  and  from  26th  St.  ; to  Randall’s  Island,  from  20th 
and  from  122d  Sts.  ; to  Wards  Island,  from  110th  St.  ; to  Jersey  City,  from 
Cortlandt,  Desbrosses,  Chambers,  and  23d  Sts.  ; to  Hoboken,  from  Barclay  and 
Christopher  Sts.  ; to  Weehawken,  from  42d  St.  ; to  Staten  Island,  from  White- 
hall St.,  and  from  Pier  19,  N.  R. 

Theatres.  — The  Grand  Opera  House  (corner  of  8th  Ave.  and  23d  St.)  is  an 
elegant  marble  building,  which  is  chiefly  used  for  dramatic  representations  ; the 
* Academy  of  Music  (99  E.  14tli  St.)  is  the  favorite  home  of  the  opera  ; Theatre 
Frangais  (107  W.  14tli  St.),  often  used  also  for  English  opera,  and  for  dress  balls, 
in  winter  ; * Booth’s  Theatre  (corner  of  6th  Ave.  and  23d  St.),  devoted  to  Shakes- 


• - 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  51.  327 


peare’s  plays  and  others  of  high  grade  ; Niblo’s  Garden  (Broadway,  near  Prince 
St.)  accommodates  2,000  persons  ; Wallack’s  (Broadway,  corner  of  13th  St.)  is  a 
favorite  resort  for  lovers  of  legitimate  comedy ; Fifth  Avenue  (728  and  730 
Broadway)  and  the  Union  Square  (4th  Ave.  and  14th  St.)  are  small  but  elegant 
and  fashionable  theatres  ; the  Olympic  (624  Broadway),  the  Comique  (514  Broad- 
way), and  others,  are  devoted  to  varieties  and  comic  scenes.  Wood’s  Museum 
(corner  of  Broadway  and  30th  St.)  gives  dramatic  performances  ; and  sensational 
tragedies  and  spectacles  are  played  in  the  Bowery  Theatre  (Bowery,  near  Canal 
St.).  The  Stadt  Theatre  (37  Bowery)  is  devoted  to  German  plays  and  operas  ; and 
Tony  Pastor’s  Opera  House  (201  Bowery)  gives  popular  varieties  and  spectacles. 
Bryant’s  Minstrels  (115  W.  23d  St.)  give  negro  melodies,  dances,  &c.  There  are 
numerous  well-arranged  German  beer-gardens  in  the  city,  where  music  and  dan- 
cing are  given.  The  Central  Park  Garden  affords  the  best  of  orchestral  music,  and 
is  a favorite  summer  evening  resort  of  the  up-town  families.  The  Atlantic  Garden 
(next  to  the  Bowery  Theatre)  has  line  music,  but  is  chiefly  visited  by  Germans. 
The  cellar  concert-saloons  on  Broadway  and  elsewhere  should  be  avoided,  for  they 
are  (for  the  most  part)  both  disreputable  and  dangerous.  Lectures  and  concerts 
are  frequently  given  in  Association,  Cooper  Institute,  Apollo,  and  Irving  Halls. 
Classic  music,  oratorios,  and  concerts  are  generally  given  in  Steinway  Hall  (14th 
St. , near  Broadway). 

Railroads. — Across  Staten  Island  to  Tottenville,  Pier.  1,  E.  R.  ; to  Phila- 
delphia, by  Trenton  (90  M.)  from  foot  of  Cortlandt  St.  ; by  S.  Amboy  (92  M.) ; to 
Easton,  Pa.,  from  foot  of  Liberty  St.  ; to  Greenport,  Long  Island  (foot  of  James 
St.)  ; to  Flushing ; to  Hackettstown  ; to  Long  Branch  ; to  Albany  (144  M.),  sta- 
tion corner  of  30th  St.  and  10th  Ave.  ; to  Albany  (by  the  Harlem  R.  R.),  from  the 
42d  St.  station  ; to  New  Haven  and  Boston,  from  the  corner  of  4th  Ave.  and  42d 
St.  The  Erie  Railway  (ferry)  stations  are  at  the  foot  of  Chambers  and  of  23d  St. 

Steamers.  — Transatlantic  lines  — for  Liverpool,  the  White  Star  and  Cunard 
Lines,  Piers  at  Jersey  City  ; Inman  Line,  Pier  45,  N.  R.  ; U.  S.  Mail  Line,  Pier 
46  ; National  Line,  Piers  44  and  47,  N.  R.  ; for  Liverpool  and  Glasgow,  Anchor 
Line,  Pier  20,  N.  R. ; for  London,  Piers  44  and  47,  and  3,  N.  R.  ; for  Havre,  Pier 
50,  N.  R.  ; for  Hamburg  and  Bremen,  Piers  at  Hoboken  ; for  Antwerp  ; for  the 
Mediterranean  ports.  West  Indian  lines  — for  Havana,  Atlantic  Mail  Line,  Pier 
4,  N.  R.  ; for  Havana  and  Vera  Cruz,  Pier  17,  E.  R.  ; for  Hayti,  Nassau,  and  the 
Bermudas.  For  St.  Thomas  and  Brazil  (monthly),  Pier  43,  N.  R.  ; for  St.  Domin- 
go and^Samana  Bay.  For  Panama  and  San  Francisco  (semi-monthly),  Pier  42,  N. 
R.  Tile  American  coast  — for  Key  West  and  Galveston  (tri-monthly),  Pier  20,  E. 
R.  ;'for  New  Orleans  (3  weekly  steamers),  Piers  9 and  12,  N.  R.,  and  20,  E.  R.  ; 
for  Fernandina,  Pier  29,  N.  R.  ; for  Savannah  (two  weekly  steamers),  Piers  13  and 
36,  N.  R.  ; for  Charleston  (thrice  weekly).  Piers  5 and  8,  N.  R.  ; for  Newbern  (tri- 
monthly), Pier  16,  E.  R.  ; for  Norfolk  and  Richmond  (tri-weekly),  Pier  37,  N.  R.  ; 
for  Washington  and  Alexandria  (semi-weekly),  Pier  29,  E.  R.  ; for  Philadelphia 
(tri- weekly),  Piers  33  and  34,  E.  R.  ; for  New  Bedford  (semi- weekly),  Pier  13,  E. 
R.  ; for  Boston  (outside).  Pier  11,  N.  R.  ; for  Portland  (semi-weekly),  Pier  38,  E.  R. 

Coastivise  and  river  lines  — to  Yonkers,  Tarrytown,  West  Point,  Newburg, 
Poughkeepsie,  Hudson,  Albany,  and  Troy,  from  Pier  39,  N.  R.  (morning  boat), 
and  from  Pier  41,  N.  R.  (evening  boat)  ; other  river-steamers  are  at  Piers  49,  35, 
34,  51,  and  43  ; to  Elizabethport  and  Kill  Von  Kull,  from  Pier  14,  N.  R.  (thrice 

daily) ; to  Staten  Island  (North  Shore)  hourly,  from  Pier  19,  N.  R. (South 

Shore),  from  Whitehall ; to  Elizabethport  and  Perth  Amboy,  from  Pier  26  ; to 
Long  Branch,  from  Pier  35  ; to  Sandy  Hook,  from  Pier  28  ; to  Newark,  from  Pier 
26  ; to  S.  Amboy,  from  Pier  1,  N.  R.  ; to  Astoria  and  Harlem,  12  times  daily,  from 
Pier  24,  E.  R.  (Peck  Slip)  ; to  Bay  Ridge,  from  Pier  15.  E.  R.,  6 times  daily  ; to 
Great  Neck,  Glen  Cove,  Roslyn,  and  Whitestone,  from  Pier  24,  E.  R.  ; to  College 
Point  and  Flushing,  from  Pier  22,  E.  R.  ; to  Huntington  and  Oyster  Bay,  from 
Pier  37,  E.  R.  ; to  Greenport  and  Orient,  from  Pier  4,  N.  R.  ; to  High  Bridge  and 
Kingsbridge,  from  Harlem  Bridge ; to  Morrisania,  from  Pier  22,  E.  R.  ; to  Sag 
Harbor,  from  Pier  4,  N.  R.  Steamers  leave  for  Greenwich  and  Stamford  from 
Pier  37,  E.  R.  ; for  Norwalk,  from  Pier  37,  E.  R.  ; for  Bridgeport,  from  Pier  35, 
E.  R.  : for  Stratford  and  Milford,  from  Pier  37,  E.  R.  ; for  New  Haven,  from  Pier 
25,  E.  R.  (afternoon  and  evening) ; for  Hartford  and  the  Conn.  River  ports,  from 
Pier  24,  E.  R.  ; for  New  London  (and  Boston),  from  Pier  40,  N.  R.  ; for  Stoning- 
ton  (and  Boston),  from  Pier  33,  N.  R.  ; for  Newport,  Fall  River  (and  Boston), 
from  Pier  28,  N.  R.  ; for  Providence,  from  Pier  27,  N.  R.  t 


328  Route  51. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


New  York  City,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  United  States  and 
the  chief  city  of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  is  situated  on  Manhattan 
Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  River,  in  latitude  40°  42'  43"  N., 
and  longitude  3°  1'  13"  E.  from  Washington.  The  population  of  the  city 
in  1870  was  926,341.  The  island  is  13J  M.  long,  and  1 - 2 M.  wide  (con- 
taining 22  square  M.),  and  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Hudson  River, 
on  the  E.  by  the  East  River,  on  the  N.  by  Harlem  River  and  Spuyten 
Duyvil  Creek,  while  its  S.  end  looks  out  on  the  Bay  of  New  York.  The 
lower  part  of  the  island  consists  of  alluvial  deposits,  but  low,  rocky  ridges 
are  found  in  the  central  part,  which  ascend  to  the  cliffs  of  Washington 
Heights  on  the  N.  The  city  extends  for  5-6  M.  N.  from  the  Battery, 
and  the  district  above  the  densely  settled  streets  is  studded  with  villas, 
public  and  charitable  buildings,  and  market-gardens.  The  grand  avenue 
called  Broadway  runs  from  the  lower  end  of  the  island  to  the  Central 
Park,  beyond  which  the  broad  and  costly  Boulevard  conducts  to  the  N. 
end.  The  city  is  laid  out  somewhat  irregularly  from  the  Battery  to  14th 
St.  (2J  M. ),  but  beyond  that  line  a succession  of  straight,  parallel  streets 
extend  from  river  to  river,  and  are  crossed  at  right  angles  by  broad  ave- 
nues running  lengthwise  of  the  island.  The  Bay  of  New  York  is  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  in  the  world,  and  affords  a safe  anchorage  for  the 
largest  commercial  fleets  and  the  great  vessels  of  the  European  steamship- 
lines. The  inner  harbor  is  entered  through  a deep  strait  called  the  Nar- 
rows, which  is  defended  by  the  most  powerful  and  imposing  fortifications 
and  armaments  in  the  Western  world. 

The  site  of  New  York  was  discovered  by  the  Florentine  mariner,  Verrazaani,  in 
the  year  1524.  The  harbor  was  again  visited  by  Hendrick  Hudson,  commanding 
a vessel  of  the  Butch  East  India  Company  (Sept.  3,  1609),  and  from  the  scene  of 
wassail  and  merriment  which  followed  the  meeting  of  the  sailors  and  the  natives, 
the  Indians  named  the  island  Manhattan  (“  the  place  where  they  all  got  drunk  ”). 
Hudson  then  ascended  the  river  since  named  in  his  honor  to  the  site  of  Albany, 
and  claimed  the  land,  by  right  of  discovery,  as  an  appanage  of  Holland,  under 
the  name  of  the  New  Netherlands.  In  1614  a Butch  colony  came  over,  and  built 
4 houses  and  a fort  (near  the  present  Bowling  Green),  naming  the  place  New  Am- 
sterdam, in  honor  of  that  city  which  had  taken  the  foremost  part  in  the  enter- 
prise. In  1664,  Peter  Stuyvesant  being  Captain-General  and  the  place  having 
about  1,800  inhabitants,  King  Charles  II.  of  England  granted  all  the  land  from  the 
Connecticut  to  the  Belaware  River  to  his  brother,  the  Buke  of  York,  and  an 
English  fleet  under  Capt.  Nichols  captured  New  Amsterdam  and  named  it  New 
York.  A Butch  fleet  retook  the  place  in  1673  (the  population  being  about  2,500), 
but  it  was  soon  restored  to  England  by  treaty.  Gov.  Sir  Edmund  Andros  was 
ousted  by  the  people  (a  few  years  later),  and  Jacob  Leisler  took  his  place,  and 
ruled  amid  the  trials  and  terrors  of  bitter  political  struggles  and  sanguinary  in- 
vasions from  Canada.  In  1700  the  city  had  about  6,000  inhabitants  ; in  1702  the 
first  free  grammar  school  was  opened  ; in  1711  a slave-market  was  opened  in  Wall 
St.  ; in  1725  the  New  York  Gazette  was  established  ; and  in  1732  a classical  academy 
was  founded.  The  commerce  of  the  city  increased  rapidly,  and  its  merchants 
took  a bold  and  decided  stand  against  the  unjust  aggressions  of  Parliament.  The 
American  army  under  Washington  occupied  the  city  in  1776,  but  the  British  troops 
who  had  abandoned  Boston  landed  on  Long  Island,  and  after  a severe  battle  near 
Brooklyn,  Washington  was  forced  to  retreat.  Other  actions  at  White  Plains  and 
King’s  Bridge  resulted  in  great  damage  to  the  Americans,  and  New  York  was  left 
in  the  hands  of  the  British,  who  occupied  it  for  seven  years.  Part  of  the  city  was 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  51.  329 


burnt,  part  of  it  was  turned  into  barracks,  hospitals,  and  prisons,  and  thousands 
of  Americans  were  confined  on  floating  hulks  in  the  East  River.  Nov.  25,  1783, 
the  British  left,  and  Washington  and  the  Governor  of  the  State  entered  in  triumph. 
The  first  Federal  Congress  met  here,  and  here,  in  1789,  Washington  was  inaugu- 
rated President  (the  city  then  having  33,000  inhabitants  ; in  1800  it  had  60,489). 
The  first  steamer  was  put  on  the  Hudson  in  1807,  and  the  Erie  Canal  was  com- 
pleted in  1825,  amid  splendid  celebrations  in  the  city  and  State.  Gas  was  intro- 
duced in  1825  ; in  1832  the  Asiatic  cholera  carried  off  4,360  persons  ; in  1835  a 
great  fire  destroyed  $ 20,000,000  worth  of  property  ; and  in  1837  the  great  financial 
crisis  ruined  thousands.  The  Croton  Aqueduct  was  completed  in  1842,  and  a 
fire  in  1845  caused  a loss  of  $ 7,000,000.  The  city  has  grown  rapidly  since  the  in- 
troduction of  the  railway  system,  and  the  most  remote  parts  of  the  States  are 
reached  by  its  immense  lines  of  track.  Scores  of  ocean-steamers  and  fleets  of 
packet-ships  bring  in  the  products  of  all  other  continents,  and  bear  away  full 
cargoes  of  Western  grain,  or  the  manufactures  of  the  Middle  and  Eastern  States. 
In  1820  New  York  had  123,706  inhabitants  ; in  1840,  312,710  ; in  1860,  813.669  ; 
and  in  1870,  926,341.  There  are  but  two  larger  cities  (London  and  Paris)  in  Chris- 
tendom, and  if  the  population  of  the  close-lying  suburbs  of  Brooklyn,  Williams- 
burg, and  Jersey  City  were  added  to  that  of  New  York,  it  would  be  the  sixth  city 
in  the  world. 

The  Battery  is  a park  at  the  S.  end  of  Manhattan  Island,  containing 
10J  acres,  and  adorned  with  large  trees  and  verdant  lawns.  The  water- 
front is  secured  by  a sea-wall  of  massive  masonry,  above  which  is  a broad 
promenade  which  affords  admirable  * views  of  the  Bay.  The  populous 
heights  of  Brooklyn  are  in  the  E.,  with  Governor’s  Island  nearer  at  hand, 
on  which  the  high  walls  of  Castle  William  are  seen,  with  the  embank- 
ments of  the  less  imposing  but  more  powerful  Fort  Columbus,  a star-fort 
mounting  120  heavy  cannon.  Ellis  and  Bedloe’s  Islands  are  seen  farther 
down  the  harbor,  with  the  long  hill-ranges  of  Staten  Island  beyond,  and 
Jersey  City  on  the  W.  The  curious  round  structure  on  the  Battery  was 
built  for  a fort  (C{  Castle  Clinton  ”)  in  1807,  was  ceded  to  the  city  in  1823, 
and  was  the  scene  of  the  civic  receptions  of  the  Marquis  Lafayette,  Gen. 
Jackson,  President  Tyler,  and  others.  It  then  became  an  opera-house, 
where  Jenny  Lind,  Son  tag,  Parodi,  Jullien,  Mario,  &c.,  made  their  appear- 
ance. The  building  is  now  used  as  a depot  for  immigrants,  who  are  here 
received  from  their  ships,  and  from  which  they  are  sent  to  their  desti- 
nations. From  Whitehall,  on  the  E.  of  the  Battery,  the  Staten-Island, 
South,  and  Hamilton  (Brooklyn)  ferry-boats  start,  besides  several  horse- 
car  and  stage  lines.  Boatmen  may  be  engaged  here  for  trips  in  the  harbor. 
From  this  point  South  St.  follows  the  East  River  shore  for  over  2 M., 
passing  the  ferries  to  the  Long  Island  cities,  and  the  piers  at  which  lie 
hundreds  of  stately  packet  and  clipper  ships,  and  humbler  coasting-craft. 
Bowling  Green,  the  cradle  of  New  York,  is  just  N.  of  the  Battery.  Near 
by,  Fort  Amsterdam  was  built  in  1635,  and  in  1770  an  equestrian  statue 
of  King  George  III.  (of  gilded  lead)  was  set  up  on  the  Green.  In  1776  the 
statue  was  overthrown  by  the  people,  and  taken  to  Litchfield,  Conn., 
where  it  was  melted  into  (42,000)  bullets.  West  St.  rims  N.  along  the 
Hudson  River  shore  for  over  2 M.  from  the  Battery,  passing  the  piers  of 
hundreds  of  steamers  and  the  ferries  to  the  New  Jersey  shore.  The  house 


330  Route  51. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


No.  1 Broadway  was  built  in  1760,  and  has  served  as  the  head  quarters  of 
Lord  Howe,  Gen.  Clinton,  Lord  Cornwallis,  and  Gen.  Washington.  Tal- 
leyrand once  lived  in  this  house,  and  Fulton  died  alongside  it.  Benedict 
Arnold  lived  at  No.  5 Broadway,  and  Gen.  Gage  had  his  head  quarters  at 
No.  11.  A short  distance  above  the  Green  is  * Trinity  Church,  a noble 
Gothic  building  of  brown-stone,  with  a spire  284  ft.  high.  The  interior  is 
192  ft.  long  and  60  ft.  high,  with  a deep  chancel  lighted  by  a superb 
window,  and  with  massive  columns  separating  the  nave  from  the  aisles. 
The  church  is  open  all  the  week,  and  the  ascent  of  the  spire  (308  steps  ; 
small  fee  to  the  sexton)  should  be  made  for  the  sake  of  the  * view  from 
the  top.  To  the  S.  is  the  noble  harbor  with  its  fleets  and  fortified  islands 
and  the  fair  villages  of  Staten  Island  in  the  distance;  to  the  W.,  across  the 
Hudson,  are  Jersey  City,  Newark,  Bergen,  and  Elizabeth;  and  up-river 
from  Jersey  City  are  Hoboken  and  Weehawken,  with  the  Palisades  and 
the  distant  blue  Highlands  in  the  N.  The  thronged  and  brilliant  Broad- 
way runs  N.  E.  for  2 M.  to  Grace  Church,  and  the  great  mass  of  the  city 
is  seen  on  either  hand  ; while  the  course  of  East  River  may  be  followed 
from  above  Blackwell’s  Island  by  Flushing,  Astoria,  and  Greenpoint,  to 
Brooklyn  and  Greenwood.  Directly  below  is  the  crowded  Wall  St.,  along 
whose  line  ran  the  walls  of  New  Amsterdam.  There  is  a large  and  ven- 
erable graveyard  about  the  church,  in  which  are  buried  Alexander 
Hamilton,  Capt.  Lawrence  (of  the  Chesapeake),  and  other  noted  men, 
while  in  one  corner  is  a stately  Gothic  monument  to  the  patriots  who  died 
in  the  British  prison-ships.  Trinity  Society  is  the  oldest  in  New  York, 
and  the  first  edifice  on  the  present  site  was  built  in  1696.  In  1705  Queen 
Anne  gave  it  a fine  communion  service  (still  preserved),  and  also  a large 
tract  of  land  on  Manhattan  Island,  which  has  since  so  increased  in  value 
that  this  church  is  the  richest  in  America  (said  to  be  worth  over  $ 10,000, 
000),  and  spends  immense  sums  annually  in  benefactions  among  the  poor 
of  New  York,  besides  supporting  a considerable  body  of  clergy  and  a choir 
which  is  unsurpassed  in  the  country.  There  are  morning  and  evening 
prayers  daily  in  the  church  (9  A.  M.  and  3 P.  M. ),  with  imposing  choral 
services  on  Sunday.  The  chime  of  bells  in  the  steeple  is  the  finest  in 
America. 

Wall  St.  runs  E.  from  Trinity  Church,  and  is  the  resort  of  bankers  and 
brokers,  and  the  financial  centre  of  the  republic.  At  No.  13  the  visitors, 
gallery  of  the  Stock  Exchange  may  be  entered,  and  at  about  noon  affords 
an  exciting  view  of  the  busy  whirl  below.  The  stately  TJ.  S.  Sub- 
Treasury  is  on  the  corner  of  Wall  and  Nassau,  on  the  site  of  the  hall  in 
which  Washington  was  inaugurated  first  President  of  the  U.  S.  (1789).  It 
is  built  in  partial  imitation  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  with  Doric  colon- 
nades and  classic  pediment,  and  a lofty  interior  rotunda,  supported  by 
16  elegant  Corinthian  columns.  It  is  of  Massachusetts  marble  (with 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  51.  331 


granite  roof),  and  took  8 years  in  building,  costing  $ 2,000,000.  (Visitors 
admitted,  10-3  o’clock. ) Broad  St.,  the  home  of  speculators  and  brokers, 
leads  off  to  the  S.  from  the  Treasury,  while  running  N.  is  the  busy  Nassau 
St.,  on  which  (two  squares  distant)  is  a quaint  old  edifice,  which  was 
built,  1723  - 6,  for  the  Middle  Dutch  Church,  and  was  used  during  the 
Revolution  as  a prison  for  Americans,  and  a riding-school  for  British 
cavalrymen.  It  was  used  as  a church  again  from  1784  until  1844,  when  it 
was  bought,  and  has  since  been  used  for  a post-office.  Near  the  Treasury 
are  the  great  banking-houses  of  Henry  Clews  & Co.,  Fisk  & Hatch,  Jay 
Cooke  & Co.,  Duncan  & Sherman,  &c.,  while  opposite  the  Treasury  is 
the  superb  Drexel  building  (built  in  the  Renaissance  style  at  a cost  of 
$700,000).  Still  farther  down  Wall  St.  is  the  TJ.  S.  Custom  House,  a 
massive  building  of  granite,  marble,  and  iron,  originally  built  for  a 
Merchants’  Exchange,  at  a cost  of  $1,800,000.  It  is  200  ft.  long,  and  has 
a portico  of  18  Ionic  columns,  while  a dome  124  ft.  high  overarches  a 
rotunda  surrounded  by  8 rich  Corinthian  columns  of  Italian  marble,  and 
capable  of  containing  3,000  persons.  The  elegant  Bank  of  New  York  is 
opposite  the  Custom  House,  and  just  below  is  Pearl  St.,  the  scene  of  a 
heavy  wholesale  trade  in  cotton  and  other  staples.  A ferry  runs  from  the 
foot  of  Wall  St.  to  Montague  St.,  Brooklyn.  Returning  to  Broadway,  the 
immense  buildings  of  the  Bank  of  the  Republic,  the  Metropolitan  Bank, 
the  Equitable  Life  Ins.  Co.  (137  ft.  high),  and  others  are  passed.  Fulton 
St.  turns  off  to  the  r.  at  the  busiest  part  of  Broadway,  and  leads  to  Fulton 
Ferry,  passing  the  old  North  Dutch  Church,  and  the  Fulton  Market. 
St.  Paul's  Church  (Epis.),  on  the  1.  of  Broadway,  was  built  in  1766,  and 
has  a statue  of  St.  Paul  on  its  pediment,  with  a mural  tablet  in  the  front 
wall  over  the  remains  of  Gen.  Montgomery.  Opposite  the  church  is  the 
floridly  ornamented  Park  Bank  and  the  extensive  and  elegant  Herald 
Building , standing  on  the  site  of  Barnum’s  Museum  (which  was  burnt  in 
1865).  The  long  and  simple  granite  front  of  the  Astor  House  comes  next, 
on  Broadway  (on  the  1.),  with  Vesey  St.  diverging  to  the  1.  and  leading  to 
the  great  Washington  Market , with  its  rude  and  unsightly  sheds  filled 
with  a rare  display  of  the  fruits  and  vegetables,  meats  and  fish,  of  the 
adjacent  districts.  Park  Row  stretches  off  obliquely  to  the  r.  from  the 
Astor  House  to  Printing  House  Square,  with  its  bronze  statue  of  Franklin. 
This  vicinity  is  one  of  the  great  intellectual  centres  of  America,  and  here 
are  seen  the  offices  of  the  Herald l,  Times , Tribune , World,  Sun,  Telegram, 
News,  Express,  Day  Book,  Evening  Mail,  Journal,  Staats  Zeitung  (all 
daily  papers,  besides  a shoal  of  weeklies. ) The  Christian  Union,  Inde- 
pendent, Nation , and  other  able  papers,  are  published  in  Park  Place.  By 
turning  from  Printing  House  Square  down  Frankfort  St.,  Franklin  Square 
is  reached,  with  the  vast  and  imposing  publishing  house  of  the  Harpers. 
Chatham  St.,  the  prolongation  of  Park  Row,  is  the  home  of  Jew  trades- 


332  Route  51. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


men,  mock  auctions,  and  old-clothes  shops.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  City 
Hall  Park,  and  opposite  the  Astor  House,  is  the  new  * U.  S.  Post-Office, 
a stately  and  immense  granite  building,  with  lofty  Louvre  domes  and  a 
frontage  (on  Broadway)  of  340  ft.  The  architecture  is  Doric  and  Renais- 
sance, the  granite  columns  and  blocks  being  cut  and  carved  ready  for  their 
places  (by  600  men)  at  Dix  Island,  on  the  coast  of  Maine,  and  the  building 
is  absolutely  incombustible.  The  basement  and  first  floor  will  be  reserved 
for  the  Post-Office,  the  second  and  third  floor  for  the  U.  S.  Courts,  and  12 
elevators  will  keep  up  communications.  The  City  Hall  is  N.  of  the  Post- 
Office,  and  is  a fine  building  of  Massachusetts  marble,  216  ft.  long  and 
105  ft.  broad,  with  Ionic,  Corinthian,  and  composite  pilasters  lining  its 
front.  It  is  surmounted  by  a fine  clock-tower,  which  is  illuminated  at 
night.  The  City  Hall  was  nine  years  in  building,  and  cost  $ 700,000.  N. 
of  this  edifice  is  the  new  Court  House,  a massive  and  magnificent  marble 
building,  in  Corinthian  architecture,  250  ft.  long,  and  completely  fire- 
proof. It  was  commenced  in  1861,  the  expense  being  estimated  at 
$ 800,000,  but  the  infamous  Tammany  Ring  having  gained  control  in  the 
city,  $5-6,000,000  was  (nominally)  spent  on  the  Court  House.  The 
elegant  Corinthian  portico  on  Chambers  St.,  the  lofty  and  graceful  dome, 
and  other  details  of  the  plan,  have  not  yet  been  completed.  Opposite  the 
Court  House  is  the  great  marble  building  devoted  to  A.  T.  Stewart’s 
wholesale  trade  (shawls,  silks,  and  dry  goods),  standing  on  the  site  of  a 
British  fort  of  1776-83.  Passing  up  Broadway,  with  immense  and  costly 
buildings  on  either  side,  and  similarly  lined  streets  running  off  to  r.  and  1., 
the  brilliant  windows,  the  throngs  on  the  sidewalks,  and  the  roar  of  the 
street  cause  constant  surprise.  On  the  r.  is  the  “ Bloody  Sixth  ” Ward 
(bounded  by  Broadway,  Canal,  Bowery,  and  Chatham  Sts.),  with  its  dense 
and  dangerous  population,  its  filth,  poverty,  and  crime.  By  turning 
down  Leonard  St.  (to  the  r. ) the  city  prison,  called  the  Tombs,  is  reached. 
It  is  built  massively  in  the  gloomiest  and  heaviest  form  of  Egyptian 
architecture,  and  is  usually  well  filled,  while  in  the  interior  of  the  quad- 
rangle is  the  place  of  executions.  A short  distance  beyond,  at  the  inter- 
section of  Baxter,  Park,  and  Worth  Sts.,  is  the  Five  Points , formerly  the 
most  terrible  locality  in  the  city  and  republic,  but  now  somewhat  im- 
proved by  the  aggressions  of  religious  missions.  In  this  vicinity  are  the 
crowded  and  reeking  tenements,  the  narrow  and  filthy  alleys,  the  unspeak- 
able corruption  and  utter  depravity  of  the  slums  of  the  Empire  City.  It 
is  well  to  be  accompanied  by  a policeman  during  a visit  to  this  district, 
both  to  insure  personal  safety  and  to  learn  minute  details. 

Advancing  up  Broadway,  Walker  St.  is  seen  on  the  1. , leading  to  the 
’ Hudson  River  R.  R.  Depot,  whose  Hudson  St.  front  is  surmounted  by 
the  largest  bronze  groups  in  the  world  (emblematic  of  Vanderbilt’s  career). 
The  ancient  Chapel  of  St.  John  fronts  the  depot,  which  was  built  on  St. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  51,  333 


John’s  Park.  Passing  now  the  superb  white  marble  N.  Y.  Life  Ins. 
Building  (Ionic  architecture)  and  the  Brandreth  House,  the  wide  Canal 
St.  is  crossed.  Lord  and  Taylor’s  vast  wholesale  store,  the  St.  Nicholas 
Hotel,  Appleton’s  bookstore,  and  Ball,  Black  & Co’s,  jewelry  store  are 
passed  on  the  1.,  with  the  Prescott  and  Metropolitan  Hotels  on  the  r.  A 
little  way  beyond  the  Grand  Central  Hotel  (on  the  1.),  a side  street  leads 
W.  to  Washington  Square,  laid  out  on  the  old  Potter’s  Field,  where  over 
100,000  bodies  are  buried  in  trenches.  On  one  side  of  the  Square  is  the 
New  York  University  (founded  in  1831),  a fine  marble  building  200  ft. 
long,  in  English  collegiate  architecture,  with  a large  Gothic  window  light- 
ing the  chapel.  Above  the  Grand  Central  Hotel,  Astor  Place  leads  off 
obliquely  to  the  r.  to  the  Mercantile  Library  (95-100,000  volumes)  in 
the  old  Astor  Place  Opera  House.  Close  by,  on  the  S.,  in  Lafayette 
Place,  is  the  Astor  Library  (open  9-5  daily),  in  two  lofty  halls  in  a 
large  Romanesque  building.  The  library  was  endowed  with  $ 400,000  by 
John  Jacob  Astor,  and  has  over  100,000  volumes,  besides  rare  old  books 
and  considerable  departments  in  the  European  languages.  The  Bible 
House  (at  the  end  of.  Astor  Place)  is  an  immense  structure,  six  stories 
high,  covering  f of  an  acre,  with  700  ft.  frontage,  and  containing  600  oper- 
atives. It  cost  $300,000,  and  is  the  property  of  the  American  Bible  So- 
ciety, and  besides  the  vast  numbers  of  Bibles  issued  from  its  presses,  there 
are  13  religious  and  philanthropic  papers  published  in  the  building.  Since 
1817  this  society  has  put  in  circulation  9,000,000  Bibles  and  Testaments, 
in  24  languages.  Opposite  the  Bible  House  is  the  Cooper  Institute,  a 
brown-stone  building  occupying  an  entire  square,  which  was  founded  and 
endowed  by  Peter  Cooper,  of  New  York.  It  has  a great  library  and  read- 
ing-room, with  courses  of  lectures  and  special  studies,  nearly  all  of  which 
are  free  to  the  people.  Stuyvesant  Place  leads  N.  E.  from  the  Institute, 
passing  St.  Mark's  Church  (Epis.),  which  has  the  tombs  of  the  Dutch  Cap- 
tain-General Stuyvesant  (died  1682),  the  British  Governor  Sloughter,  and 
the  American  Governor  Tompkins.  At  the  end  of  the  Place  is  the  ele- 
gant yellow  sandstone  building  of  the  N.  Y.  Historical  Society,  with  a 
rich  historical  library  of  20,000  volumes,  collections  of  antiquities,  a pic- 
ture gallery,  and  museums  of  Nineveh  marbles  and  Egyptian  curiosities. 
Cole’s  “ Course  of  Empire  ” paintings  are  in  this  art  gallery. 

On  Broadway,  corner  of  10th  St.,  is  Stewart’s  vast  dry-goods  store, 
with  15  acres  of  flooring,  said  to  be  the  largest  store  in  the  world.  Grace 
Church  and  Rectory  are  now  seen  on  the  r.,  costly  and  elegant  buildings 
of  marble,  in  the  most  florid  Gothic  architecture.  The  lofty  and  graceful 
spire  is  much  admired,  and  the  interior  of  the  church,  with  40  stained 
windows,  light  columns  and  arches  and  carvings,  has  a theatrical  splendor. 
At  this  point  Broadway  bends  to  the  1.,  and  soon  reaches  Union  Square, 
a pleasant  oval  park,  with  green  lawns  and  shrubbery,  and  a large  popu- 


334  Route  51. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


lation  of  English  sparrows.  On  the  E.  is  a colossal  equestrian  statue  of 
Washington,  which  is  much  admired,  and  on  the  W.  is  a bronze  statue  of 
Lincoln.  The  Square  is  lined  with  fine  hotels  and  stores,  although  it  was 
formerly  the  most  aristocratic  part  of  the  city.  University  Place  runs  S. 
from  Union  Square,  passing  the  N.  Y.  Society  Library  (near  12th  St.  ; 
founded  1700  ; 38,000  volumes)  and  the  Union  Theological  Seminary  (near 
8th  St.  ; with  6 professors  and  100  students),  to  the  N.  Y.  University. 
14th  St.  runs  E.  by  the  elegant  Steinway  Hall,  the  Academy  of  Music, 
Grace  Church  Chapel,  and  Tammany  Hall. 

4th  Avenue  runs  N.  from  Union  Square.  To  the  r.,  down  16th  St.,  is 
Stuyvesant  Square  and  St.  George’s  Church  (Epis.),  a large  and  elegant 
edifice  of  brown-stone,  in  Romanesque  architecture,  with  a richly  frescoed 
ceiling  100  ft.  above  the  floor,  a spacious  chancel,  twin  spires  (245  ft. 
high),  and  a fine  rectory  (the  home  of  S.  H.  Tyng,  D.  D. ).  Farther  up 
4th  Ave.  (corner  of  20th  St.)  is  the  Church  of  All  Souls  (Dr.  Bellows  ; 
Unitarian),  a curious  structure  in  Italian  architecture,  with  alternate 
courses  of  brick  and  light-colored  stone.  On  the  next  corner,  is  the  Cal- 
rary  Church  (Epis. ),  a Gothic  building  of  brown-stone,  and  near  by  is  St. 
Paul’s  Church  (Meth. ),  of  white  marble,  in  Romanesque  architecture. 
On  the  corner  of  4th  Ave.  and  23d  St.  is  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Asso- 
ciation building,  a large  and  costly  structure  of  brown  and  Ohio  stone,  in 
the  Renaissance  architecture,  and  including  a fine  library,  reading-rooms, 
parlors,  a gymnasium,  and  a public  hall.  Strangers  will  meet  a kindly 
welcome  here.  Opposite  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  is  the  elegant  * National 
Academy  of  Design,  built  of  gray  and  white  marbles  and  blue-stone,  in 
the  purer  Gothic  forms  of  the  12th  century,  with  certain  features  copied 
from  the  best  Venetian  architecture.  It  has  an  imposing  entrance  and 
stairway,  with  extensive  galleries,  in  which  every  spring  and  summer  are 
held  exhibitions  of  hundreds  of  the  recent  works  of  the  best  of  living 
American  artists  (admission  25c. ).  On  the  lower  floor  is  the  Suydam  col- 
lection (on  permanent  deposit),  which  includes  92  pictures  by  eminent 
French  and  American  artists,  with  a few  works  of  the  old  Italian  masters. 
E.  of  the  Academy  (on  23d  St.)  are  the  N.  Y.  College  of  Physicians  and 
Surgeons,  the  Demilt  Dispensary,  the  Ophthalmic  Hospital,  and  the  Col- 
lege of  the  City  of  New  York  (corner  of  Lexington  Ave.).  Passing  W. 
along  23d  St.,  Madison  Square  is  soon  reached  (3  M.  from  the  Battery), 
a bright  and  fashion-favored  park  of  six  acres,  surrounded  by  palatial 
hotels  (5th  Ave.,  Hoffman,  St.  James,  &c. ),  and  adorned  by  a monument 
to  Gen.  Worth.  23d  St.  runs  thence  W.  to  the  Hudson  River,  passing 
Booth's  Theatre  (corner  of  6th  Ave. ),  with  the  new  and  imposing  Masonic 
Hall  on  the  opposite  corner,  and  the  great  marble  Opera  House  on  the 
corner  of  8th  Ave.  Turning  to  the  1.  from  23d  St.  down  9th  Ave.  to  20th 
St. , the  stone  buildings  of  the  richly  endowed  and  flourishing  General 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  51.  335 


Theological  Seminary  (Epis. ) may  be  seen.  Broadway  runs  N.  from 
Madison  Square  for  nearly  2 M.  to  the  Central  Park,  crossing  the  num- 
bered streets  obliquely,  and  passing  the  sumptuous  Stevens  House  ( hotel 
garni , corner  of  6th  Ave. ),  Wood’s  Museum  (near  30th  St.),  the  Congre- 
gational Tabernacle  (corner  of  34tli  St.),  the  Armory  of  the  37th  Regi- 
ment (corner  of  6th  Ave.),  and  long  lines  of  fine  buildings  and  stores. 
Fifth  Avenue  begins  on  the  S.  at  Washington  Square,  and  passes  the  Col- 
lege of  St.  Francis  Xavier  (Jesuit  ; corner  of  15th  St.  and  opposite  the 
Manhattan  and  the  New  York  Club  Houses),  Belmont’s  palace  (corner  of 
18th  St.),  Dr.  Hall’s  Church  (Pres.  ; corner  of  19th  St.),  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Communion  (Epis.  ; cruciform  Gothic,  of  brown-stone,  with 
free  seats  ; corner  of  20th  St.  and  6th  Ave. ),  and  the  Union  Club  House 
(built  of  brown-stone  at  a cost  of  $300,000  ; corner  of  22d  St.).  The 
avenue  now  passes  the  line  of  superb  hotels  on  the  W.  side  of  Madison 
Square,  and  crosses  Broadway  diagonally.  The  route  from  Madison 
Square  to  the  Central  Park  by  this  avenue  leads  through  the  most  aristo- 
cratic and  splendid  street  in  America,  — forming  a scene  of  unexampled 
brilliancy  and  beauty,  especially  on  pleasant  Sundays  after  morning  ser- 
vice and  late  in  the  afternoon.  Just  off  the  avenue  on  25th  St.  is  Trinity 
Chapel,  an  elegant  edifice  lined  with  Caen  stone,  frescoed,  with  richly 
stained  windows,  and  famous  for  its  choral  services.  St.  Stephen's  Church 
(Cath. ),  which  has  the  most  elegant  altar  in  America,  may  be  seen  down 
28th  St.,  which  leads  off  to  the  E.  to  Bellevue  Hospital  and  the  Morgue. 
On  29th  St.,  near  the  avenue,  is  the  quaint  and  irregular  Church  of  the 
Transfiguration,  much  affected  for  fashionable  weddings  and  familiarly 
known  as  “ the  little  church  around  the  corner.”  On  the  corner  of  33d 
St.  is  W.  B.  Astor’s  mansion,  while  on  the  corner  of  34th  St.  is  the  superb 
marble  palace  of  A.  T.  Stewart,  which  cost  $ 2,000,000,  and  has  a famous 
picture-gallery.  ; 

34th  St.  leads  W.  to  the  Hudson,  passing  the  turreted  and  embattled 
buildings  of  the  N.  Y.  Institution  for  the  Blind.  On  the  E.  it  conducts 
to  Park  Ave.,  on  high  ground,  which  is  underlaid  by  the  4th  Ave.  R. 
R.  passing  through  a tunnel  over  which  are  well-arranged  parks.  The 
Unitarian  Church  of  the  Messiah  fronts  on  Park  Avenue,  and  is  adjoined 
by  the  spacious  Church  of  the  Covenant  (Pres. ),  built  of  gray-stone  in 
Lombardo-Gothic  arcitecture.  In  this  vicinity  (corner  of  4th  Ave.  and 
32d  St.)  is  a vast  and  elegant  iron  building,  erected  by  A.  T.  Stewart  for 
a home  for  working- women. 

On  the  corner  of  5th  Ave.  and  35th  St.  is  the  costly  and  ultra-ritualistic 
Christ  Church  (Epis.),  with  its  renowned  artistic  music  and  its  elaborate 
frescoes,  while  the  plainer  Brick  Church  (Pres. ) is  on  the  37th  St.  corner. 
On  5th  Ave.,  from  40th  to  42d  Sts.,  is  the  Distributing  Reservoir  of  the 
Croton  Aqueduct,  massively  built  of  granite  in  Egyptian  architecture,  44 


336  Route  51. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


ft.  high,  420  ft.  square,  with  an  area  of  4 acres  and  a capacity  of  23,000,000 
gallons.  The  broad  promenade  on  top  is  open  to  the  public,  and  com- 
mands extensive  and  pleasing  views.  Reservoir  Square  is  a pretty  park 
on  the  W.,  while  the  (French  Catholic)  College  of  St.  Louis  is  farther 
down  on  42d  St.  Opposite  the  Reservoir  (on  5th  Ave. ) is  the  feudal-look- 
ing building  of  Rutgers  Female  College.  Two  squares  to  the  E.  on  42d 
St.  is  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  the  converging  point  of  several  railways. 
It  is  an  enormous  structure  of  brick  and  stone,  covering  3 acres,  and  700 
ft.  long,  built  in  Renaissance  architecture,  with  several  lofty  Louvre 
domes.  On  the  corner  of  5th  Ave.  and  43d  St.  is  the  Jewish  Temple 
Emanuel , the  chief  of  the  27  synagogues  of  the  city,  and  the  finest  piece 
of  Saracenic  architecture  in  America.  It  has  some  features  copied  from 
the  ancient  Alhambra,  and  its  interior  is  a dazzling  picture  of  Oriental 
magnificence.  On  the  corner  of  45th  St.  is  the  4th  Universalist  Church 
(Dr.  Chapin’s),  near  which  is  the  curious  front  of  the  Episcopal  Church 
of  the  Heavenly  Rest.  On  49th  St.,  near  the  avenue,  are  the  buildings 
of  Columbia  College , a venerable  and  wealthy  institution,  which  was 
chartered  (as  King’s  College)  by  George  II.  of  England  in  1754.  At  the. 
corner  of  50th  St.  is  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick  (Cath.),  which  is  to  be 
the  grandest  church  in  America.  It  was  commenced  in  1858,  and  is  now 
nearly  half  done  ; tlie  building  occupying  the  highest  point  on  5th  Ave., 
and  being  firmly  founded  on  solid  ledges  of  rock.  The  material  is  white 
marble,  and  the  architecture  is  the  decorated  Gothic  of  the  13th  century. 
The  front  is  to  be  guarded  by  two  marble  spires,  each  328  ft.  high,  and 
adorned  with  statuary  and  rich  carvings,  while  the  interior  columns  are 
of  marble,  supporting  a high  and  ornate  clere-story.  The  lofty  and  ele- 
gant front  entrance  (now  completed)  is  worthy  of  close  inspection.  N.  of 
the  cathedral  is  the  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum.  The  spacious  Church  of 
St.  Thomas  (Epis.)  is  just  above  (on  the  1.),  near  which  is  St.  Luke’s  Hos- 
pital. At  59th  St.  is  the  Scholars’  Gate  to  the 

Central  Park. 

In  1856  the  present  site  of  the  Park  was  a dreary  and  desolate  region  of  swamps 
and  ledges,  dotted  here  and  there  with  heaps  of  rubbish  and  the  shanties  of  a 
rude  and  degraded  people.  In  that  year  the  work  began  which  has  since  given 
New  York  the  most  beautiful,  and  one  of  the  largest  of  the  parks  of  the  world, — 
a work  which  up  to  the  close  of  1864  alone  had  cost  $9,200,000.  The  park  is  a 
parallelogram,  2\  M.  long  and  \ M.  wide,  being  5 M.  N.  of  the  Battery,  and  nearly 
1 M.  from  the  rivers  on  either  side.  It  includes  863  acres,  of  which  185  are  of 
water,  15  M.  of  carriage-roads,  8 M.  of  bridle-paths,  and  25  M.  of  walks,  while 
communication  across  the  island  is  confined  to  four  sunken  roads  which  pass  from 
E.  to  W.  across  the  park  and  under  its  drive-ways.  Park  carriages  are  in  wait- 
ing at  the  lower  gates,  and  carry  visitors  all  through  the  grounds,  for  a small  sum. 
There  are  brilliant  skating-carnivals  on  the  frozen  ponds  during  winter,  and  on 
summer  afternoons  (especially  Sundays)  the  promenades  and  driveways  are 
thronged.  The  park  may  be  reached  by  either  of  several  horse-car  lines  from  the 
Astor  House  and  the  lower  part  of  the  city. 

Near  the  Scholar’s  Gate  (5th  Ave.)  is  the  old  State  Arsenal,  a massive 


^CL-HIT rwzrsw: 


CENTRAL  EARK . 


1.  Old  Arsenal  and  .Museum 

2.  Marble  Ardv. 

5 . Statues  tf Scott  Sc  Shakespeare. 

4 . Cosmo . 

5.  .Music  Pavilion . 

6.  Terrace. 

7.  Bow  Bridge. 

8.  Balcony  « 

0.  The  Knoll . 

10.  The  Great  Bill 

11.  Old  Torts. 

12.  The  Pool. 

15.  The  Cascade 

14.  Scholars  Gale. 

15.  Artists'  ” 

If).  Artisans' 

17.  -Merchants'  ” 

18.  W4/n^«.v  ‘ ” „ 

19.  Hunters'  " . 

20.  .Manners'  ” . 

21.  Gate  oj  All  Saints. 

22.  Boys  Gale . 

23.  Childrens  » . 

24.  Miners'  » . 

25.  Strangers' ” , 

26.  Woodmen's. " . 

27.  6'iVfc 

28.  Fanners  ” . 

29-  Warriors'  ” . 

30.  Lenox  Library. 


! 

II 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  51.  337 


castellated  building  now  used  for  the  officers  of  the  park  and  for  an  Art 
Gallery,  in  which  are  87  casts  from  the  statuary  works  of  Crawford,  together 
with  other  curiosities.  A considerable  number  of  rare  wild  animals  and 
beautiful  birds  are  kept  in  cages  near  the  building,  and  form  the  nucleus 
of  a Zoological  Garden.  Near  the  Scholar’s  Gate  is  a large  bronze  bust  of 
Humboldt,  beyond  which  is  the  Pond  (4J  acres),  an  irregular  sheet  of 
water  much  favored  by  skaters  in  winter.  From  this  gate,  winding  paths 
and  drives  conduct,  by  graceful  curves  and  passing  picturesque  knolls  and 
groves,  bridges  and  arbors,  to  The  Mall,  the  chief  promenade  and  orna- 
ment of  the  park.  At  the  entrance  of  this  noble  esplanade  are  fine  bronze 
statues  of  William  Shakespeare  and  Sir  Walter  Scott,  and  other  groups 
and  statues  are  seen  at  various  points.  The  Mall  is  1212  ft.  long  and  20S 
ft.  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  double  lines  of  tall  trees.  At  the  Music 
Pavilion , near  the  upper  end,  fine  band-concerts  are  given  on  pleasant 
Wednesday  and  Saturday  afternoons,  and  at  such  times  the  vicinity  is 
filled  with  a gay  and  varied  crowd.  The  Mall  is  terminated  by  The 
* Terrace,  a sumptuous  pile  of  architecture,  with  frescoed  arcades  and 
corridors,  broad  promenades,  costly  and  elaborate  balustrades,  and  high 
pedestals  which  are  to  be  graced  with  symbolic  statuary.  Broad  stone 
stairways  lead  down  to  the  esplanade  by  the  lake-side,  on  which  is  erected 
the  most  elegant  fountain  on  the  continent,  with  bronzes  and  rare  marbles 
representing  the  Angel  of  Bethesda.  A large  flotilla  of  pleasure-boats 
is  kept  on  the  Central  Lake  (20  acres),  and  pleasant  excursions  may 
be  made  with  little  expense  (tariffs  regulated  by  the  commissioners).  On 
the  W.  of  the  Mall  is  the  Green , a broad  lawn  covering  15  acres,  and 
destined  fora  parade-ground.  Near  the  head  of  the  Mall  (on  the  r. ) is  the 
Casino,  a neat  refectory  on  a high  knoll.  Crossing  Central  Lake  by  the 
graceful  Bow  Bridge,  The  Ramble  is  entered,  — 36  acres  of  copse  and 
thicket  and  craggy  hill,  bounded  by  the  lake  and  threaded  by  a labyrinth 
of  romantic  foot-paths.  The  Vine-covered  and  Evergreen  Walks,  the 
Stone  Arch,  the  Grotto,  and  other  pretty  objects  are  found  in  the  Ramble, 
On  Vista  Hill  (to  the  N.)  is  the  Croton  Reservoir , which  covers  31  acres, 
is  105  ft.  above  tide-water,  and  contains  150,000,000  gallons  of  water. 
There  are  broad  and  far-viewing  promenades  on  its  walls  of  massive 
masonry.  Just  to  the  N.  is  the  New  Reservoir , covering  106  acres  and 
having  a capacity  of  1,000,000,000  gallons.  The  graceful  curves  of  its 
shore-line  are  bounded  by  lofty  stone  walls  of  immense  thickness,  and 
ornamental  gate-houses  stand  at  its  N.  and  S.  ends.  Just  S.  W.  of  the 
rectangular  (smaller)  reservoir  is  the  Belvidere,  situated  on  high  ground 
overlooking  the  park.  Above  the  New  Reservoir  is  the  Upper  Park,  less 
visited  and  with  less  artificial  embellishment  then  the  Lower  Park,  but 
with  more  marked  natural  beauties.  Passing  the  East  and  West  Meadows 
the  buildings  of  Mount  St.  Vincent  are  seen  on  the  E. , where  a pleasant 
15  v 


338  Route  51. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


refectory  has  been  installed  in  the  place  formerly  occupied  by  a Catholic 
Seminary.  To  the  E.  is  the  Arboretum,  while  close  by,  on  the  N.,  is 
Harlem  Lake  (covering  16  acres),  with  its  bold  S.  shore  lined  with  the 
remains  of  ancient  fortifications.  A pretty  falling  stream,  spanned  by 
five  bridges,  runs  W.  from  the  lake  to  a picturesque  pond  S.  of  the  far- 
viewing  Great  Hill , which  looks  down  into  the  ravine  known  in  the 
Revolutionary  era  as  McGown’s  Pass.  The  Bluff  is  a bold  cliff  which 
terminates  the  park  on  the  N.,  and  bears  the  remains  of  old  forts  and 
fieldworks. 

Fronting  on  the  park  near  the  Children’s  Gate  (72d  St.  and  5th  Ave.), 
is  the  Lenox  Library,  a stately  marble  building,  costing  $ 500,000,  and 
designed  for  the  reception  of  a museum,  art-gallery,  library,  and  lecture- 
hall.  Close  by  is  the  Lenox  Hospital  (Presbyterian),  a quaint  and  ornate 
brick  and  stone  structure,  with  tall  and  slender  spires.  A few  rods  dis- 
tant (on  the  old  Hamilton  Square;  and  built  at  a cost  of  $ 300,000)  is  the 
spacious  and  imposing  new  building  of  the  Normal  College,  in  the  secular 
Gothic  style,  with  a lofty  and  massive  Victoria  tower.  The  Foundling 
Hospital  is  still  farther  E.,  and  in  plain  sight  is  the  Mount  Sinai 
Hospital,  a cluster  of  stately  buildings  in  Elizabethan  architecture,  erected 
at  a cost  of  $ 340,000.  The  vast  German  park  and  beer-garden  called 
Jones's  Wood,  is  still  farther  E.  at  the  river-side,  and  looks  across  on 
Blackwell’s  Island. 

From  the  point  where  Broadway  reaches  the  park  (corner  of  8th  Ave. 
and  59th  St. ) a grand  avenue  called  the  Boulevard,  with  a parked  centre 
and  graceful  curves,  runs  N.  to  Manhattanville  and  Kings  Bridge.  This 
road  passes  (at  73d  St.)  the  extensive  stone  building  (Gothic)  of  the  N.  Y. 
Orphan  Asylum,  which  looks  down  on  the  Hudson.  The  Leake  and 
Watts  Orphan  House  fronts  on  110th  St,,  and  can  accommodate  250 
children.  Close  by  (on  the  E. ) is  the  Morningside  Park.  At  115th  St. 
is  the  Bloomingdale  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  with  spacious  buildings  in 
pleasant  grounds.  The  Boulevard  now  leads  by  market-gardens  and 
rural  villas,  to  the  village  of  Manhattanville  (130th  St. ),  with  the  impos- 
ing buildings  of  the  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  and  of  Manhattan 
College  on  the  hill  beyond. 

Environs  of  New  York. 

The  High  Bridge  is  a structure  worthy  of  the  Roman  Empire.  It  is 
1,450  ft.  long,  114  ft.  high,  is  supported  on  14  piers,  and  is  used  to  carry 
the  Croton  Aqueduct  across  Harlem  River.  It  is  built  of  granite,  and 
cost  $ 900,000.  Near  this  point  (11  M.  from  the  City  Hall)  are  the 
buildings  of  the  Juvenile  Asylum,  while  the  elegant  structure  of  the  Insti- 
tution for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  to  the  S.  W.  (near  165th  St.).  Just 
across  Manhattan  Island  (which  is  narrow  at  this  point)  is  Fort  Washing - 


BROOKLYN. 


Route  51.  339 


ton , looking  down  on  the  Hudson  in  a succession  of  fine  views.  The 
High  Bridge  may  be  reached  by  the  lines  of  horse- cars  which  traverse  2d 
and  3d  Aves.,  but  the  steamers  which  leave  Peck  Slip  (12-15  times 
daily)  for  Harlem  afford  a more  pleasant  route.  These  boats  pass  up  the 
East  River,  by  the  immense  municipal  charitable  and  correctional  build- 
ings on  Blackwell's  Island.  The  entire  E.  water-front  of  the  city  is  passed, 
Astoria  is  visited,  and,  leaving  the  tumultuous  Hell  Gate  passage  on  the  r., 
the  boat  enters  a narrower  channel  with  Ward's  Island  on  the  r.  On  this 
island  are  seen  the  imposing  and  extensive  buildings  of  the  Inebriate 
Asylum,  together  with  the  Lunatic  Asylum  and  the  Emigrant  Hospitals. 
Randall' s I stand  comes  next  (on  the  r.),  with  the  House  of  Refuge  and 
other  civic  charities.  The  steamer  stops  at  Harlem  Bridge,  whence  the 
High  Bridge  may  be  reached  by  smaller  boats  or  by  road. 

Brooklyn,  the  third  city  of  the  Union  (396,300  inhabitants),  is  joined 
to  New  York  by  several  ferries  across  East  River.  The  bridge  which  has 
been  in  process  of  construction  for  years,  and  which  will  connect  the  two 
cities,  will  be  the  most  stupendous  work  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  The 
City  Hall  is  1 M.  from  the  Fulton  Ferry  (corner  of  Court  and  Fulton  Sts.) 
and  is  an  elegant  classic  building  of  white  marble,  near  which  is  the  Kings 
County  Court  House,  built  of  marble  in  Corinthian  architecture,  at  a cost 
of  $ 540,000.  There  are  many  other  fine  public  buildings  in  the  city, 
while  the  private  mansions  (on  Clinton  Avenue,  Brooklyn  Heights,  &c.)  are 
worthy  of  notice.  The  U.  S.  Navy  Yard  is  of  the  first  class,  and  covers 
40  acres,  with  large  depots  of  materiel  of  war,  ship-houses,  barracks,  &c., 
while  the  Dry  Dock  (which  cost  $1,000,000)  is  one  of  the  best.  Some 
fine  vessels  may  be  seen  here,  including  the  old  line-of-battle  ship  “ North 
Carolina.”  The  Marine  Hospital  (500  patients)  is' a fine  granite  building 
on  the  Wallabout  Bay,  where  the  British  prison-ships  were  anchored 
during  the  Revolution,  and  where  11,500  patriot  prisoners  died.  The 
Atlantic  Dock  fronts  toward  Governor’s  Island,  and  its  long  granite  piers 
and  immense  warehouses  merit  a visit.  The  principal  churches  of  the 
city  are  the  Catholic  Cathedral,  a superb  structure  (now  building)  on  the 
corner  of  Lafayette  and  Vanderbilt  Aves. ; the  Plymouth  Church  (Henry 
Ward  Beecher)  on  Orange,  near  Hicks  St. ; the  Church  of  the  Pilgrims 
(Rev.  R.  S.  Storrs,  Jr.),  corner  of  Henry  and  Remsen  Sts.;  and  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  corner  of  Clinton  and  Montague  Sts.  From 
the  fact  of  its  having  233  churches,  Brooklyn  has  won  and  wears  the 
name  of  “ The  City  of  Churches. 

Prospect  Park  (reached  by  horse-cars  on  Fulton  St.  and  Flatbush  Ave. ) 
is  a noble  rival  of  Central  Park,  covering  510  acres,  and  costing,  since  its 
commencement  (in  1866),  $ 9,000,000.  The  Plaza  is  a large,  paved,  circu- 
lar space  at  the  entrance,  with  a statue  of  Lincoln,  fountains,  and  flowers. 
There  are  broad  and  verdant  meadows,  large  and  umbrageous  groves, 


340  Route  52. 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY. 


hills  commanding  superb  views  of  the  Bay  of  New  York,  Staten  Island, 
and  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson  and  the  Neversink.  There  is  a pictu- 
resque lake  of  61  acres,  and  the  romantic  variety  of  the  natural  scenery  of 
this  park,  together  with  its  height  and  its  fine  distant  views,  render  it 
the  pride  of  Long  Island.  There  are  8 M.  of  drives,  4 M.  of  rides,  and  a 
great  number  of  rambles. 

Greenwood  Cemetery  is  3 M.  from  Fulton  Ferry  (horse-cars  every  15 
minutes ; strangers  not  admitted  on  Sunday),  and  is  the  most  beautiful 
cemetery  in  the  world.  It  contains  242  acres  of  land,  traversed  by  20  M. 
of  winding  paths  and  driveways,  and  embellished  with  forests  and  lakes. 
Ocean  Hill  commands  a view  over  the  limitless  sea,  while  Battle  Hill 
overlooks  New  York  and  its  Bay,  Brooklyn,  Jersey  City,  and  the  Hud- 
son. Many  of  the  monuments  are  of  much  artistic  merit,  and  the  reve- 
nues of  the  cemetery  are  devoted  to  its  adornment. 

To  the  E.  of  Brooklyn  are  the  large  cemeteries  of  “ The  Evergreens  ” 
and  “ Cypress  Hills,”  beyond  which  are  the  quaint  and  pleasant  old  Long 
Island  towns  of  Flushing  and  Jamaica.  Still  farther  E.  is  Roslyn 
(steamer  from  Peck  Slip),  a sweet  village  on  Hempstead  Bay,  near  which 
is  Cedarmere,  the  home  of  Bryant.  Long  Branch  is  34  M.  from  New 
York  (by  steamer  from  Pier  28,  N.  R.,  to  Sandy  Hook,  and  thence  by 
rail),  and  is  the  favorite  seaside  resort  of  the  “upper  ten.”  It  has  a 
cluster  of  the  most  elegant  and  expensive  summer-hotels  on  the  coast,  and 
has  fine  bathing  and  driving  facilities.  Coney  Island  is  a favorite  resort 
for  the  great  mass  of  the  citizens,  and  is  quickly  reached  by  boat  from 
Pier  1,  N.  R.,  or  by  cars  from  Brooklyn.  Excursions  to  the  beautiful 
hills  and  vast  fortifications  on  Staten  Island  ; to  the  cities  of  Jersey  City, 
Elizabeth,  and  Newark  ; and  through  Hell  Gate  to  the  island  towns,  will 
be  found  both  pleasant  and  profitable. 


52.  New  York  to  Albany.— The  Hudson  River. 

The  palatial  steamers  of  the  day  line  to  Albany  leave  Pier  39,  N.  R.  (foot  of 
Vestry  St.)  at  8.  30  a.  m.  The  night  boats  leave  Pier  41  (foot  of  Canal  St.)  at  6 
p.m.  The  Hudson  River  Railroad  station  is  on  30th  St.,  near  9th  Ave.  (trains  to 
Albany,  144  M.,  in  5-5^-  hrs.);  the  Harlem  Railroad  station  is  on  42d  St. 
(Grand  Central  Depot  ; distance  to  Albany,  151  M.).  The  day  steamers  will 
be  preferred  by  the  tourist,  on  account  of  the  panoramic  views  of  the  river- 
scenery  thereby  obtained,  together  with  the  immunity  from  the  dust  and  heat  of 
the  cars. 

The  Hudson  River  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Dutch  mariner  who  first  explored 
it,  — ascending  in  the  yacht  “ Half-Moon  ” as  far  as  the  Mohawk  River.  It  has 
its  rise  in  the  Adirondack  Mts.,  4,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  after  the  confluence 
of  several  branches  at  Fort  Edward,  takes  a southerly  course  to  the  Bay  of  New 
York.  Large  steamers  ascend  to  Troy,  150  M.,  and  ships  can  go  as  far  as  Hudson, 
117  M.  Vast  quantities  of  lumber  are  floated  down  the  stream,  while  squadrons 
of  canal-boats  are  frequently  passed,  bearing  coal  from  Pennsylvania  (by  the  Dela- 
ware and  Hudson  Canal  to  Rondout)  and  grain  from  the  West  (by  the  Erie  Canal 
to  Albany). 


THE  HUDSON  RIVER. 


Route  52.  311 


As  the  great  steamer  passes  out  into  the  stream,  a fine  view  is  afforded 
of  the  harbor  in  the  distance,  the  populous  shores  of  Jersey  City  and 
Hoboken  on  the  W.,  and  the  dense  lines  of  piers  and  warehouses  on  the 
New  York  shore.  Above  Hoboken  are  the  Elysian  Fields  and  Castle 
Hill,  crowned  by  the  Stevens  mansion  ; and  still  beyond  is  Weehawken, 
where  Aaron  Burr,  the  political  adventurer,  shot  (in  a duel)  Alexander 
Hamilton,  a distinguished  statesman  and  jurist,  and  for  6 years  Secretary 
of  the  U.  S.  Treasury  (1804).  At  and  above  Weehawken  The  Palisades 
begin  to  assume  a bold  aspect.  This  is  a vast  trap-dyke,  3 - 500  ft.  high, 
which  runs  along  the  r.  bank  from  Hoboken  to  Haverstraw,  with  a lofty, 
columnar  front,  and  masses  of  fragments  at  its  base.  It  is  less  than  1 M. 
thick,  and  hides  the  Hackensack  Valley  from  the  Hudson.  Bull's  Ferry 
(W.)  is  a summer-resort  opposite  90th  St.  Manhattanville  (E.)  is  a vil- 
lage of  New  York  City,  near  which  are  the  Lunatic  Asylum  and  the  Con- 
vent of  the  Sacred  Heart,  just  above  which  is  Carmansville , and  a large 
pile  of  fine  buildings  surmounted  by  a dome  (the  N.  Y.  Institution  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb).  On  the  same  shore,  and  farther  N.,  is  Fort  Wash- 
ington, on  a bold  cliff  near  185th  St.  This  was  the  citadel  of  the  Ameri- 
can fortified  lines  in  1776,  but  was  captured  in  November  of  that  year, 
with  its  garrison  of  2,600  men.  On  the  W.  shore  is  Fort  Lee,  whose  gar- 
rison, retreating  after  that  event,  was  attacked  and  cut  to  pieces  by  a large 
Hessian  force.  Near  this  point,  where  the  cliffs  loom  up  grandly,  the 
immense  Palisades  Hotel  is  seen.  On  Jeffrey’s  Hook  (E.)  are  the  remains 
of  a powerful  redoubt  which  was  built  to  defend  the  obstructions  with 
which  the  river  was  filled,  and  near  King’s  Bridge  (by  217th  St. ) were  3 
forts,  about  which  there  was  desperate  fighting  early  in  1777.  A short 
distance  above  (E.),  the  mouth  of  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  is  passed. 

This  stream  is  named  after  a legendary  Dutch  trumpeter  who  swore  he  would 
swim  the  creek  on  his  mission  to  the  mainland,  “ in  spite  of  the  devil  ” (en  spuyt 
den  duyvil).  He  struggled  violently  when  at  mid-stream,  gave  one  long  trumpet- 
blast,  and  sank.  At  the  mouth  of  this  creek  the  Indians  attempted  to  board  Hud- 
son’s vessel  (in  1609),  but  after  a severe  conflict  they  were  repulsed  and  driven  to 
the  shore.  Throughout  the  Revolutionary  War,  Spuyten  Duyvil  was  the  southern 
border  of  the  “ neutral  ground,”  — a belt  of  about  30  M.,  which  was  incessantly 
swept  by  raids  and  guerilla  bands. 

From  the  high  promontory  of  the  Palisades  on  the  W.  a road  leads  to 
the  pretty  New  Jersey  village  of  Englewood,  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the 
Hackensack.  Above  Spuyten  Duyvil  is  the  village  of  Riverdale,  near 
which  (E.)  is  Mount  St.  Vincent,  a convent  of  the  Sisters  of  the  Sacred 
Heart.  The  castellated  and  towered  stone  building  was  the  Font  Hill 
mansion  of  Edwin  Forrest,  and  the  large  brick  building  was  erected  by  the 
sisterhood  after  their  acquisition  of  the  estate.  Yonkers  (E.)  is  17  M. 
from  New  York,  and  is  a large  and  flourishing  town  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Neperah  River,  where  many  New  York  merchants  live.  Hudson  made 
his  second  anchorage  here  (1609),  and  traded  with  many  Indians  who 


342  Route  52. 


TARRYTOWN. 


came  aboard  his  vessel.  A naval  battle  was  fought  off  Yonkers  in 
1777  between  the  British  frigates  “ Rose  ” and  “ Phoenix  ” and  a flotilla  of 
American  gunboats.  This  district  constituted  the  ancient  Philipse  estate, 
the  manor-house  of  which  is  still  standing,  and  with  its  broad  halls,  lofty 
rooms,  wainscoting,  and  Dutch  tiles,  has  a truly  antique  air.  Part  of 
the  manor  was  built  in  1682,  and  the  remainder  dates  from  1745,  all  the 
walls  being  of  stone.  Mary  Philipse,  the  beautiful  heiress  of  this  estate, 
was  the  first  love  of  George  Washington,  and  although  he  could  not  win 
her,  he  always  remembered  her  fondly. 

A little  above  Yonkers  (on  the  W.)  is  the  highest  point  of  the  Palisades, 
and  soon  Hastings  is  seen  on  the  E.,  a prosperous  village  whence  much 
Westchester  marble  is  shipped.  Here  Lord  Cornwallis’s  British  army 
crossed  the  Hudson,  just  before  Washington’s  retreat  through  the  Jerseys. 
1 M.  above  (E. ) is  Dobbs'  Ferry , an  ancient  village  at  the  mouth  of  Wis- 
quaqua  Creek,  with  ruins  of  old  fortifications  and  a quaint  old  church. 
It  was  named  for  one  Dobbs,  a Swede,  who  kept  a ferry  here,  and  some 
years  since  a sharp  controversy  was  raised  by  a well-supported  but  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  to  change  the  name  to  Paulding.  Opposite  this  place  is 
Piermont , where  a pier  1 M.  long  (on  the  line  between  New  York  and 
New  Jersey)  projects  from  the  W.  shore  to  the  deep-water  channel.  A 
branch  of  the  Erie  Railway  runs  thence  to  Suffern,  18  M.  W.  3 M.  from 
Piermont  is  the  old  village  of  Tappan,  where  Major  Andre  was  tried  and 
executed  (1780),  and  the  stone  house  which  was  Washington’s  head-quar- 
ters and  Andre’s  prison  is  still  standing.  At  Dobbs’  Ferry  begins  a lake- 
like widening  of  the  river  called  Tappan  Zee  (10  M.  long,  and  2 - 5 M. 
wide).  Near  Irvington,  above  the  Ferry,  are  several  fine  mansions,  among 
which  is  “Sunnyside,”  the  ancient  and  unique  home  of  Washington  Irv- 
ing. It  was  built  in  the  17th  century  by  Wolfert  Acker,  who  inscribed 
over  the  door  “Lust  in  Rust”  (pleasure  in  quiet),  whence  the  English 
settlers  called  it  “ Wolfert’s  Roost.”  The  eastern  front  is  covered  with 
ivy,  from  a slip  which  Sir  Walter  Scott  gave  Irving  at  Abbotsford.  Above 
“Sunnyside”  is  the  Paulding  Manor,  a costly  building  of  marble,  in 
Elizabethan  architecture,  and  still  farther  N.  is  Tarry  town,  an  ancient 
village  beautifully  situated  on  a far-viewing  hillside.  Near  this  village 
(the  Terwe  Dorp  of  the  17th  century)  is  a quiet  valley  known  of  old  a 
Slaeperigh  Haven  (“Sleepy  Hollow  ”),  which  has  been  immortalized  by 
Irving.  Carl’s  Mill,  the  Philipse  Castle,  and  the  bridge  over  the  Pocan- 
tico,  are  still  standing,  and  so  is  the  old  Dutch  Church,  built  in  the  17th 
century  with  bricks  brought  from  Holland. 

A monument  marks  the  place  where  Andr6  was  captured.  Benedict  Arnold,  a 
brave  American  general,  had  been  court-martialed  and  reprimanded  for  certain 
derelictions  in  his  command  of  Philadelphia,  and  his  proud  spirit  felt  the  sting  of 
disgrace  so  keenly  that  he  resolved  to  be  revenged  on  his  country.  He  opened  a 
secret  correspondence  with  the  British,  and  offered  to  surrender  West  Point  (to 


THE  HIGHLANDS. 


Route  52.  343 


which  he  had  been  transferred).  Major  Andre,  Adjutant-General  of  the  British 
army,  went  up  the  Tappan  Zee  on  the  sloop-of-war  “ Vulture,”  and  landed  by 
night  at  Stony  Point,  where  he  arranged  with  Arnold  for  the  surrender.  But  the 
“Vulture”  was  forced  to  retire,  and  Andre,  attempting  to  pass  by  land  to  New 
York,  was  halted  in  the  neutral  ground  by  a squad  of  irregular  militia.  He  was 
searched,  and  the  papers  and  plans  of  the  surrender  were  found.  Arnold  escaped 
to  the  “ Vulture,”  and  became  a Brigadier-General  in  the  British  army,  receiving 
also  $30,000,  but  Andre,  being  proven  a spy,  was  executed  amid  the  sorrow  of 
both  armies.  He  has  a monument  in  Westminster  Abbey. 

Nyack  is  opposite  Tarry  town,  while  to  the  N.  is  Sing  Sing , on  a 
pleasant  hillside,  and  near  the  end  of  the  Croton  Aqueduct,  which  has  a 
tine  stone  arch  here.  Near  the  river  are  the  extensive  marble  buildings 
of  the  State  Prison,  which  were  erected  by  the  convicts,  and  stand  in 
grounds  covering  130  acres.  The  place  is  usually  overflowing  with 
prisoners,  who  are  guarded  by  sentinels  and  patrols.  Opposite  Sing  Sing 
(meaning  u Stony  Place  ”)  is  Verdritege  Hook  or  Point-no-Point,  on 
whose  upper  slope  is  Rockland  Lake,  from  which  New  York  gets  200,000 
tons  of  ice  yearly.  Teller’s  (or  Croton)  Point,  with  its  rich  vineyards,  is 
now  approached,  and  the  mouth  of  Croton  River  is  seen.  6 M.  up  this 
river  is  a dam  240  ft.  long,  40  ft.  high,  and  70  ft.  thick  at  the  bottom, 
which  forms  a lake  of  400  acres  with  40  ft.  of  water  (500,000,000  gallons). 
From  this  point  a closed  aqueduct  of  stone  and  brick  carries  tha  water 
parallel  with  the  Hudson  for  nearly  40  M.  to  the  great  reservoirs  in  the 
Central  Park,  New  York.  The  aqueduct  discharges  60,000,000  gallons 
daily,  with  a down  grade  of  13J  inches  to  a mile,  and  the  whole  work  cost 
$14,000,000. 

The  Highlands  loom  up  boldly  in  front  as  the  steamer  crosses  the 
beautiful  Haverstraw  Bay  to  the  village  of  Haverstraw  ( W. ),  with  the  old 
stone  mansion  on  Treason  Hill,  where  Arnold  and  Andre  met.  Above  is 
a line  of  limestone  cliffs  which  have  produced  1,000,000  bushels  of  lime 
yearly.  3 M.  above  ( W. ) is  the  bold  and  picturesque  promontory  of;. 
Stony  Point , with  Yerplanck’s  Point  opposite. 

Both  these  places  were  fortified  early  in  the  Revolution,  and  were  captured  by 
the  British  army  in  June,  1779,  inflicting  a severe  blow  on  the  Americans  from 
the  loss  of  such  a strategic  position.  Stony  Point  was  fortified  by  earthworks  and 
abatis,  and  well  garrisoned,  yet  Gen.  Wayne  begged  permission  to  attack  it,  saying 
to  Washington,  “ General,  I ’ll  storm  hell,  if  you  ’ll  only  plan  it.”  With  two  small 
columns  of  picked  men  (of  the  5th  Penn.  Infantry),  on  the  night  of  July  15tli,  Mad 
Anthony  Wayne  carried  the  fort  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  under  a heavy  fire  of 
musketry  and  grape-shot.  Wayne  was  shot  in  the  head,  but,  being  borne  into  the 
captured  works,  soon  recovered,  and  after  cannonading  Fort  Fayette,  on  Ver- 
planck’s  Point,  he  dismantled  and  abandoned  the  fort.  The  lighthouse  stands 
on  the  site  of  the  old  magazine. 

3 M.  from  Stony  Point  (W.)  is  Caldwell’s  Landing,  at  the  foot  of  the  ab- 
rupt and  imposing  Dunderberg  (Thunder  Mt. ),  which  was  anciently  be- 
lieved to  be  the  home  of  malicious  imps  who  hurled  fierce  tempests  out  on 
the  river.  Opposite  Dunderberg  is  PeekskiU , at  the  mouth  of  a creek  which 
was  ascended  long  ago  by  Jan  Peek,  a Dutch  mariner,  who  was  so  pleased 


344  Route  52 . 


WEST  POINT. 


with  its  fertile  shores  that  he  named  it  Peek’s  Kill,  and  settled  there.  Fort 
Independence  crowned  the  hill  above  the  village  during  the  Revolution,  and 
here  Gen.  Putnam  had  his  headquarters,  and  “ tried  as  a spy,  condemned 
as  a spy,  and  executed  as  a spy,”  the  Englishman,  Edmund  Palmer  (1777). 
An  ancient  church  (built  in  1767)  and  the  venerable  Van  Cortlandt 
mansion  are  worthy  of  visiting. 

Bending  to  the  W.  at  Peekskill,  the  Hudson  enters  that  part  of  its 
course  called  the  Race,  and  passes  through  the  beautiful  Highlands,  which 
were  compared  by  Chateaubriand  to  “ a large  bouquet  tied  at  its  base  with 
azure  ribbon.”  From  Peekskill  to  Newburg  the  steamer  passes  through  a 
panorama  of  river-scenery  unexcelled  in  the  world.  Dunderberg  on  the 
1.  confronts  on  the  r.  Anthony's  Nose. 

This  bold  hill  (1,12S  ft.  high)  is  named  after  Anthony  Van  Corlear,  Gov.  Stuyves- 
ant’s  trumpeter.  “Just  at  this  moment  the  illustrious  sun,  breaking  in  all  his 
splendor  from  behind  one  of  the  high  cliffs  of  the  Highlands,  did  dart  one  of  his 
most  potent  beams  full  upon  the  effulgent  nose  of  the  sounder  of  brass.  The 
reflection  of  which  shot  straightway  down,  hissing  hot,  into  the  water,  and  killed 
a mighty  sturgeon  that  was  sporting  beside  the  vessel.  When  this  astonishing 
miracle  came  to  be  made  known  to  Peter  Stuyvesant  (the  governor),  he,  as  may 
well  be  supposed,  marvelled  exceedingly ; and  as  a monument  thereof,  gave  the 
name  of  Anthony’s  Nose  to  a stout  promontory  in  the  neighborhood.” 

Above  Anthony’s  Nose  is  the  romantic  Brocken  Kill,  while  opposite  is 
the  grape-abounding  Iona  Island.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  old  Poplopen 
Kill,  with  some  remnants  of  Forts  Montgomery  (N.)  and  Clinton  (S.),  on 
the  promontories  at  its  mouth.  These  works,  together  with  a massive 
chain  and  boom  across  the  river,  defended  by  a fleet  of  gunboats,  were 
intended  to  close  the  Hudson  against  the  British.  But  Sir  Henry  Clinton 
advanced  in  Oct.,  1777,  marching  over  the  Dunderberg,  and  after  a sharp 
skirmish  at  Lake  Sinnipink  (still  called  Bloody  Pond)  his  forces  invested 
the  forts.  After  a long  struggle  in  the  fog,  during  which  the  British  fleet 
moved  up  the  river,  the  overpowered  garrisons  gave  way  and  fled  to  the 
hills,  having  lost  300  men.  The  American  gunboats  were  then  destroyed 
by  their  crews,  and  the  British  broke  away  the  chains  and  obstructions  in 
the  river  (which  had  cost  Congress  $ 250,000). 

The  Hudson  now  turns  to  the  N.,  and  Buttermilk  Falls  are  soon  seen  on 
the  1.,  near  which  is  the  fashionable  and  favorite  Cozzens'  Hotel.  1 M. 
above  is  the  U.  S.  Military  Academy  at  West  Point.  This  place  was 
fortified  by  Parsons’s  Conn,  brigade  in  1778,  and  was  then  called  “the 
Gibraltar  of  America.”  Washington  recommended  the  location  of  a 
national  school  here,  and  in  1812  the  school  was  established,  since  which 
the  officers  of  the  regular  army  have  been  educated  here.  There  are 
barracks  for  the  250  Cadets,  with  riding-school,  chapel,  hospital,  &c.  The 
academy  building  is  an  extensive  stone  structure,  in  Gothic  architecture. 
There  are  various  trophies  (of  artillery,  &c. ) about  the  grounds,  and  a 
library  of  15,000  volumes  in  the  main  building.  Kosciusko’s  Garden  is  a 


NEWBURG. 


Route  52.  345 


beautiful  hanging  garden  approached  from  the  plain  by  Flirtation  Walk, 
and  containing  a marble  monument  to  the  heroic  Polish  chieftain,  who 
was  wont  to  read  and  meditate  here.  Near  the  head  of  Flirtation  Walk 
is  a monument  to  the  troops  who  were  massacred  in  the  Everglades  of 
Florida,  in  1835.  Fort  Putnam  is  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Independence, 
and  commands  fine  views  from  its  ancient  and  ruinous  bastions.  The 
Siege  Battery  is  a practical  work  near  the  river.  The  Cadets  are  chosen 
by  the  national  Congressmen  and,  after  remaining  here  four  years,  enter 
tiie  U.  S.  Army  as  second-lieutenants.  The  discipline  is  very  strict,  and 
during  July  and  August  of  each  year  the  corps  goes  into  camp. 

Opposite  West  Point  is  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.,  under  whose  shadow  is  the 
Robinson  House,  Arnold’s  head-quarters,  and  the  Beverly  Dock,  whence 
he  escaped  to  the  “ Vulture.”  Passing  Constitution  Island,  on  the  E.  is 
seen  Cold  Spring,  a pretty  village  near  which  is  “ Undercliff,”  the  former 
home  of  the  poet  Morris.  Mt.  Taurus  looms  up  on  the  r.,  and  is  named 
from  a certain  wild  bull  who  was  once  the  terror  of  the  countryside,  until 
he  was  hunted  out  and  broke  his  neck  on  the  next  hill  (N. ),  since  called 
Breakneck  Hill  (1,187  ft.  high).  On  the  W.  bank,  just  above  West  Point, 
is  Cro'-Nest  (1,418  ft.  high),  which  is  separated  from  Boterberg  by  the 
picturesque  Yale  of  Tempe,  where  some  part  of  the  scene  of  “ The  Culprit 
Fay”  is  laid.  Boterberg  (otherwise  called  Butter  Hill  and  Storm  King) 
is  a bold  and  imposing  mountain  1,529  ft.  high,  at  whose  northern  slope 
is  the  pretty  village  of  Cornwall.  “ Idlewild ,”  the  home  of  N.  P.  Willis, 
is  near  Cornwall,  beyond  which  the  decadent  village  of  New  Windsor  is 
seen. 

Newburg  ( Orange  Hotel)  is  a busy  city  of  over  15,000  inhabitants,  built 
on  the  steep  slope  of  a high  hill,  and  showing  finely  from  the  river.  There 
are  many  pretty  villas  on  the  heights,  and  a few  very  neat  churches,  while 
the  water-front  is  lined  with  warehouses.  The  city  has  some  manufac- 
tories, and  a considerable  country  trade,  while  immense  quantities  of  coal 
are  brought  here  from  Pennsylvania  (by  a branch  of  the  Erie  Railway 
running  up  the  Quassaic  Valley  to  Greycourt,  19  M.  distant),  and  shipped 
to  all  parts  of  the  Hudson  Valley. 

S.  of  Newburg  is  the  old  Hasbrouck  Mansion,  an  antique  stone  house  which 
was  Washington’s  head-quarters  in  1783,  while  the  Continental  army  was  encamped 
here  to  watch  the  British  at  New  York.  Certain  high  officers  of  the  army,  doubt- 
ing the  feasibility  of  a republic,  circulated  an  address  to  that  effect,  and  (indirectly) 
offered  to  make  Washington  King  of  America.  The  noble  Virginian  spurned  the 
proposal,  and  after  he  had  delivered  an  earnest  address  to  a council  of  officers  they 
resolved  unanimously,  “ That  the  officers  of  the  American  army  view  with  abhor- 
rence, and  reject  with  disdain,  the  infamous  proposition  contained  in  a late  anony- 
mous address  to  the  officers  of  the  army.” 

A steam-ferry  crosses  the  river  from  Newburg  to  Fishkill-on-the-Hud- 
son,  on  a fertile  plain  N.  of  the  S.  Beacon  Hill  (from  which  noble  views 
are  afforded).  The  manufacturing  village  of  Matteawan  is  about  M. 

15* 


346  Route  52. 


POUGHKEEPSIE. 


distant,  and  the  ancient  Dutch  town  of  Fishkill  is  5 M.  to  the  E.  2 M. 
N.  E.  of  the  river  village  (the  Landing)  is  the  Verplanck  House,  once  the 
head-quarters  of  Baron  Steuben,  and  the  place  where  the  Society  of  the 
Cincinnati  was  formed  (in  1783).  As  the  steamer  passes  N.,  there  are  fine 
retrospects  of  Boterberg,  Breakneck  Hill,  and  the  Matteawan  and  Shawan- 
gunk  Mts.  On  the  W.  bank,  opposite  the  village  of  Low  Point,  is  a rocky 
platform  which  was  named  “the  Devil’s  Dance-Chamber”  by  Hendrick 
Hudson,  after  seeing  there  a midnight  pow-wow  of  painted  Indians. 

But  Knickerbocker,  describing  Gov.  Stuyvesant’s  voyage,  says,  “ Even  now  I 
have  it  on  the  point  of  my  pen  to  relate,  how  his  crew  was  most  horribly  fright- 
ened, on  going  on  shore  above  the  Highlands,  by  a gang  of  merry,  roystering  devils, 
frisking  and  curveting  on  a huge  flat  rock  which  projected  into  the  river,  and 
which  is  called  the  Duy veil’s  Dans  Kamer  to  this  very  day.” 

New  Hamburg,  and  Barnegat  (on  the  E.  shore),  Hampton,  Marlborough, 
and  Milton  (on  the  W.  shore),  are  small  river- villages,  which  are  passed 
during  the  next  15  M.  Poughkeepsie  ( Morgan  House ) is  a city  of  17,000 
inhabitants,  situated  on  the  E.  bank,  75  M.  from  New  York.  It  was 
settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1698,  and  its  name  is  derived  from  the  Indian 
Apokeepsing  (“safe  harbor”).  It  is  situated  on  a plateau  above  the 
river,  and  has  some  good  public  buildings  and  famous  schools,  with  a 
large  and  lucrative  country  trade  from  the  rich  farm-lands  of  Dutchess 
County.  About  2 M.  from  the  city  (horse-cars  run  all  the  way)  is  Vassar 
College,  the  largest  and  most  renowned  female  college  in  the  world.  It 
occupies  a range  of  imposing  buildings  secluded  amid  extensive  grounds, 
and  has  about  400  students,  who  pursue  the  higher  classical  and  scientific 
studies,  and  receive  degrees  in  due  form.  Among  the  distinguished  resi- 
dents of  Poughkeepsie  are  Benson  J.  Lossing,  the  historian  ; A.  J.  Davis, 
the  head  of  the  Spiritualist  sect  (sometimes  called  “ The  Poughkeepsie 
Seer”)  ; and  Prof.  S.  F.  B.  Morse  (died  in  1872),  one  of  the  originators 
of  the  electric  telegraph. 

New  Paltz  is  opposite  Poughkeepsie,  and  5 M.  above  (E.)  is  the  hand- 
some village  of  Hyde  Park,  named  after  Sir  Edmund  Hyde,  a near  rela- 
tive of  Queen  Anne,  who  was  an  early  Governor  of  New  York.  This  land 
was  bought  and  named  by  his  private  secretary.  The  village  is  near  a 
sharp  bend  in  the  river,  called  by  Dutch  “ Krom  Elleboge  ” (crooked 
elbow),  and  now  known  as  Crom  Elbow.  1 M.  above  is  “ Placentia,”  the 
former  home  of  James  K.  Paulding,  the  essayist  and  satirist,  and  Secre- 
tary of  the  U.  S.  Navy  (1839-41).  The  river-banks  are  now  low  and  un- 
picturesque,  but  an  air  of  rich  rural  peace  pervades  the  country-side,  and 
handsome  villas  are  seen  on  the  banks.  Astor’s  mansion  (W.),  Esopus 
Island,  and  Staatsburg  (E. ) are  passed,  with  the  majestic  blue  peaks  of 
the. Catskills  drawing  nearer  on  the  N.  Port  Ewen  and  Rondout , on  the 
W.,  are  busy  towns,  with  large  foreign  populations  engaged  in  the  manu- 
facture of  cement  and  the  transfer  of  coal,  which  is  brought  here  in  im- 


CLERMONT. 


Route  52.  347 


mense  quantities  over  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal.  2 M.  inland,  on 
Esopus  Creek,  is  Kingston,  which  was  settled  by  the  Huguenots  in  1665, 
and  was  sacked  and  burned  by  Gen.  Vaughan,  with  3,000  British  troops, 
in  1777.  The  first  constitution  of  New  York  was  formed  in  a legislative 
session  at  Kingston  (1777),  and  here  Vanderlyn,  the  artist,  was  bora 
(1776).  Opposite  Rondout  is  Rhinebeck-on-the-Hudson,  2 M.  from  the 
old  village  which  was  founded  by  William  Beekman  in  1647.  He  came 
from  the  Rhineland,  and  named  his  settlement  for  himself  and  his  old 
home  river.  S.  of  the  Landing  is  “ Wildercliff,”  the  former  estate  of  the 
eminent  Methodist,  Freeborn  Garretson.  Above  this  place  is  “Ellerslie,” 
the  home  of  the  Hon.  Wm.  Kelly  (the  estate  fronts  for  1J  M.  on  the 
river),  while  near  the  Landing  is  the  old  fortress-mansion  of  the  Beek- 
mans  (built  of  stone,  in  the  17th  century).  Above  Rhinebeck  is  “ Roke- 
by,”  W.  B.  Astor’s  residence,  which  was  built  by  Gen.  Armstrong,  Secre- 
tary of  War,  1813-14  ; and  “ Montgomery  Place,”  the  Livingstons’  man- 
sion, built  by  Gen.  Montgomery’s  widow  (a  Livingston).  Above  Barry- 
town  is  the  estate  of  “ Annandale,”  and  in  the  groves  of  Cruger’s  Island 
(near  the  W.  shore),  is  a picturesque  and  truly  ancient  ruin,  which  was 
imported  from  Italy  some  years  since.  Near  Annandale  is  an  elegant 
little  chapel,  and  St.  Stephen's  College  (Episcopal),  endowed  by  Mr.  Bard, 
the  owner  of  the  estate.  Barrytown  and  Tivoli  are  the  landings  for  the 
antiquated  inland  towns  of  Lower  and  Upper  Red  Hook.  Opposite  Tivoli 
(which  has  the  old  De  Peyster  Mansion)  is  the  flourishing  factory-village 
of  Saugerties,  at  the  mouth  of  Esopus  Creek,  and  2 M.  above  is  Malden. 
Opposite  Malden  is  Clermont,  the  home  of  the  patrician  family  of 
Livingston  (descended  from  the  Earls  of  Linlithgow),  which  has  had  such 
great  influence  in  New  York  State.  The  old  manor  was  above  German- 
town, and  Chancellor  Livingston  built  a new  one  on  the  site  of  Clermont, 
but  Vaughan’s  British  raiders  destroyed  both  houses  (in  1777).  New 
ones  were  soon  erected,  and  the  Chancellor,  being  appointed  Ambassador 
to  France,  met  Robert  Fulton  in  Paris,  and  became  deeply  interested  in 
the  new  theories  of  steam  navigation.  In  1787  John  Fitch  built  and 
worked  a steamboat  at  Philadelphia,  and  in  1789  one  had  been  operated 
on  the  Clyde  (near  Glasgow),  but  both  inventors  had  given  up  the  idea 
of  the  feasibility  of  steam  navigation.  In  1807  Livingston  and  Fulton 
built  a steamboat  in  New  York,  called  the  “ Clermont”  (but  popularly 
termed  “ Fulton’s  Folly”),  which  ascended  the  Hudson  to  Albany  in  32 
hours,  to  the  great  amazement  of  all  the  people. 

The  Catsltill  Mts.  are  now  seen  in  the  W.,  with  the  famous  Mountain  House 
far  up  on  one  of  their  peaks,  white  as  a snow-drift.  From  the  village  of  Catskill 
(with  its  superb  Prospect  Park  Hotel  overlooking  the  river)  frequent  stages  run 
to  the  Mountain  House  (in  3-4  hrs.  ; hire,  $2.00),  passing  through  Sleepy 
Hollow,  where  Rip  Van  Winkle  is  said  to  have  taken  his  20  years’  nap.  The 
Mountain  House  is  near  the  edge  of  a cliff,  2,212  ft.  above  the  river,  and  com- 
mands a * * view  extending  over  10,000  square  miles,  embracing  parts  of  four 


348  Route  52. 


ALBANY.  - 


States,  60  M.  of  the  Hudson  Valley,  the  distant  cities  of  Albany  and  Troy,  and  the 
surrounding  peaks  of  the  Catskills.  The  South  and  North  Mts.,  the  Two  Lakes 
and  the  High  Falls,  and  the  Stony,  Cauterskill,  and  Plauterkill  Cloves  (notches) 
should  be  visited.  There  are  other  hotels  among  the  nits.,  and  tine  fishing  is 
found  on  the  remote  streams.  The  small  village  of  Palenville  has  several  boarding- 
houses, much  visited  by  artists.  Amid  this  scenery  lived  and  labored  Thomas 
Cole,  the  painter  of  the  three  series  of  impressive  allegorical  pictures  representing 
“ The  Course  of  Empire,”  “ The  Voyage  of  Life,”  and  “The  Cross  and  the  World” 
(the  latter  was  left  incomplete  at  his  death). 

4 M.  above  Catskill,  on  the  E.  bank,  is  Hudson  ( Worth  House),  a hand- 
some city  on  a high  promontory,  with  a fine  river-side  avenue  called  the 
Promenade,  leading  to  the  top  of  Prospect  Hill  (200  ft.  high)  which  looks 
over  on  the  Catskills.  The  city  was  founded  by  30  Quakers  from  Provi- 
dence, in  1784,  and  now  contains  13,000  inhabitants.  It  is  at  the  head  of 
ship  navigation,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  Hudson  and  Boston  Railroad 
(to  Chatham).  The  marble  Court-House  of  Columbia  County  is  located 
here,  and  there  are  several  very  neat  churches  in  the  city.  5 M.  N.  are 
the  Columbia  Sulphur  Springs,  with  a large  hotel  and  a picturesque  lake, 
while  New  Lebanon  (see  page  146)  is  often  visited  from  this  point.  A 
steam-ferry  leads  from  Hudson  to  the  small  village  of  Athens,  whence  a 
branch  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  Railroad  diverges  to  Schenectady.  4 M.  N. 
is  Four  Mile  Point,  with  its  lighthouse,  opposite  Kinderhook  Landing,  5 
M.  from  Kinderhook,  where  Martin  Van  Buren,  8th  President  of  the  U. 
S.,  was  born,  and  where  he  died,  on  his  estate  of  “ Lindenwald.”  Cox- 
sackie  is  a rambling  village  on  the  W.  shore,  and  New  Baltimore  and 
Schodac  are  soon  passed.  Above  New  Baltimore  and  near  the  W.  shore 
is  Beeren  Island,  on  whose  rocky  summit  once  stood  the  castle  of  Rens- 
selaerstein,  pertaining  to  Killian  Van  Rensselaer,  the  Patroon  of  Albany. 
The  Helderberg  Mts.  are  seen  in  the  W.  as  the  steamer  passes  Coeyman’s; 
Castleton  is  then  passed,  on  the  E.  ; the  immense  and  costly  national 
dikes  are  seen  stretching  along  the  shore  ; and  the  populous  hills  of  Al- 
bany are  rapidly  approached. 

Albany  (*  Delavan  House  ; Stamvix  Hall),  the  capital  of  the  State  of 
New  York,  is  a prosperous  commercial  city  at  the  confluence  of  the  Erie 
and  Champlain  Canals  and  the  Hudson  River,  144  M.  from  New  York 
City.  It  has  over  70,000  inhabitants,  and  is  famed  for  its  extensive  brew- 
eries and  cattle-yards,  while  the  workshops  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  Railroad 
employ  over  1,000  men.  Vast  quantities  of  Western  produce  pass  to  and 
through  Albany  by  means  of  th  Erie  Canal,  which  has  here  a great  ter- 
minal basin  shielded  by  a breakwater  80  ft.  wide  and  4,300  ft.  long.  The 
Susquehanna  R.  R.  (from  Binghampton;  142  M.),  the  N.  Y.  Central  R. 
R.  (from  Buffalo — 297  M. — and  the  West),  arfd  the  Rensselaer  and 
Saratoga  R.  R.  (from  Saratoga,  Rutland,  and  Lake  Champlain)  converge 
here  from  the  W.  and  N.,  and  are  united  by  a double-tracked  bridge  of 
stone  and  iron  (J  M.  long  ; costing  $ 1,150,000)  to  the  great  railway  lines 
running  S.  and  E.  beyond  the  Hudson.  The  city  receives  its  water-supply 


ALBANY. 


Route  52.  349 


from  Rensselaer  Lake  (5  M.  W.),  by  a fine  system  of  works  which  cost 
over  $ 1,000,000.  State  St.  runs  from  the  business  district  near  the  river 
to  the  vicinity  of  the  pleasant  square  on  the  hill,  which  is  surrounded  by 
public  buildings.  On  the  W.  is  the  Capitol,  a plain  and  rather  dingy  old 
building,  alongside  of  which  is  the  large  hotel  called  Congress  Hall.  On 
the  E.  of  the  square  are  the  fine  marble  buildings  of  the  State  House  and 
the  City  Hall.  The  State  Library  (60,000  volumes)  adjoins  the  Capitol, 
and  just  beyond  are  seen  the  slowly  rising  marble  walls  of  the  new  State 
Capitol,  which  is  to  be  a vast  and  imposing  structure  in  Renaissance 
architecture,  crowning  one  of  the  highest  hills  of  Albany,  and  visible  for 
leagues  up  and  down  the  river.  The  Catholic  Cathedral  of  the  Immac- 
ulate Conception  is  a well-finished  and  costly  building,  on  Eagle  St.,  with 
far-famed  stained-glass  windows;  and  the  spacious  Gothic  Church  of  St. 
Joseph,  on  Ten  Broeck  St.,  is  worthy  of  inspection.  The  State  Arsenal 
is  a strong  castellated  building  on  Eagle  St. , near  some  handsome  churches. 

M.  S.  W.  of  the  city  are  the  buildings  of  the  Almshouse,  Insane 
Asylum,  Fever  Hospital,  and  Industrial  School,  all  on  one  large  farm. 
There  are  several  other  charitable  institutions  about  Albany,  and  there 
are  numerous  public  and  private  schools  of  a high  grade.  The  Medical 
College  and  the  renowned  Law  School  of  the  University  of  Albany  are  on 
Eagle  St.,  and  the  collections  in  natural  history  and  geology  (on  State  St.) 
should  be  seen.  On  a hill  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city,  is  the  Dudley  Obser- 
vatory, richly  endowed  by  Mrs.  Dudley,  and  furnished  with  a costly 
collection  of  astronomical  instruments  and  books.  In  the  same  part 
is  the  Van  Rensselaer  Manor  House  and  its  park,  an  interesting  old 
building  on  the  site  first  occupied  by  Kilian  Yan  Rensselaer,  Patroon 
of  Beverwyk.  This  gentleman  received  from  the  Dutch  king,  in  1637,  a 
patent,  covering  about  1,150  square  miles,  embracing  most  of  the  present 
counties  of  Albany,  Rensselaer,  and  Columbia,  and  here  he  ruled  in  feudal 
state.  The  family  has  ever  since  remained  powerful  and  wealthy.  The 
Schuyler  House  is  another  ancient  mansion  above  the  city,  which  was 
built  by  Col.  Peter  Schuyler,  a distinguished  colonial  leader  in  the  17th 
century. 

Albany  was  founded  by  the  Dutch  in  1014,  and  in  1623  a fort  was  built  and 
named  Fort  Orange.  The  settlement  was  called  Beverwyk,  or  Williamstadt,  and 
in  1664,  when  the  British  took  the  place,  it  was  named  Albany  in  honor  of 
the  British  crown-prince,  James,  Duke  of  York  and  Albany.  It  was  then  sur- 
rounded by  timber- walls,  with  six  gates,  parts  of  which  were  standing  in  1812. 
In  1686  the  city  was  chartered,  and  in  1798  it  became  the  capital  of  the  State.  A 
provincial  congress,  which  met  here  in  1754,  formed  such  a plan  of  union  for  the 
colonies  that  concerted  action  was  possible  when  later  events  required  it.  Since 
the  construction  of  the  Erie  and  Champlain  Canals  and  the  great  systems  of  rail- 
roads which  converge  here,  Albany  has  continued  to  increase  in  wealth  and  pros- 
perity. The  new  State  Capitol  (now  building)  will  be  the  finest  Renaissance 
structure  in  America,  and  will  cost  $7-10,000,000. 


350  Route  53. 


ALBANY  TO  MONTREAL. 


53.  Albany  to  Montreal 

By  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad,  running  N.  from  Albany  to  Saratoga 
Springs,  Whitehall,  and  Rutland. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  city,  the  Rural  Cemetery  is  passed,  and  the  train 
reaches  W.  Troy , the  seat  of  the  National  Arsenal  of  Watervliet  with  its 
30  buildings  and  100  acres  of  grounds.  On  the  E.  is  seen  Troy  ( American 
House  ; Mansion  House),  a flourishing  city  of  nearly  50,000  inhabitants, 
situated  on  an  alluvial  plain  6 M.  N.  of  Albany.  It  is  an  important  rail- 
road-centre, and  has  many  large  manufactories  (iron  foundries,  cotton  and 
woollen  goods,  cars,  Bessemer  steel,  &c.)  fronting  on  the  Hudson.  The 
Troy  Hospital,  Marshall  Infirmary,  Orphan  Asylums,  and  Warren  Free 
Institute  are  the  principal  charitable  foundations  ; while  the  Rensselaer 
Polytechnic  Institute  and  other  fine  academies  attest  the  intelligence  of 
the  citizens.  The  streets  are  wide  and  well  paved,  and  the  marble  Court 
House  and  the  fine  churches  (notably  those  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  John)  are 
worthy  of  attention.  The  city  is  built  near  the  mouth  of  the  Poestenkill, 
and  is  overlooked  by  Mounts  Ida  and  Olympus.  St.  Peter’s  College  is 
seen  upon  the  heights,  and  is  a Catholic  institution  of  high  grade  and  wide 
reputation.  Troy  was  founded  by  men  of  New  England,  and  became  a 
city  in  1816.  In  1862  full  forty  acres  of  its  settled  portion  was  burnt 
over,  causing  a loss  of  $ 3,000,000. 

Beyond  W.  Troy  the  train  passes  Cohoes , a large  manufacturing  town 
at  the  Falls  of  the  Mohawk  River,  3 M.  above  which  the  Erie  Canal 
crosses  the  river  in  a stone  aqueduct  1,137  ft.  long,  resting  on  26  piers. 
The  train  now  crosses  the  Mohawk,  and  follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Hudson 
to  Mechanicsville,  where  it  turns  to  the  N.  W.  Stations,  Round  Lake 
(near  the  celebrated  Methodist  camp-ground)  and  Ballston,  whose  mineral 
waters  were  formerly  much  visited.  There  are  several  fine  springs,  the 
most  valuable  of  which  is  known  as  the  Lithia  Spring.  7 M.  beyond 
Ballston  the  train  reaches  the  village  of 

Saratoga  Springs. 

Hotels.  — The  * * Grand  Union  Hotel  is  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  has  a 
frontage  (on  Broadway)  of  1,364  ft.,  with  1 M.  of  piazzas,  2 M.  of  halls,  13  acres  of 
carpets  and  marble  flooring,  824  rooms,  1,474  doors,  1,891  windows,  and  accom- 
modations for  over  1,200  guests.  * Congress  Hall  is  opposite  the  Grand  Union, 
and  has  1,016  ft.  of  frontage  (on  three  streets),  with  broad  piazzas,  roof-prome- 
nades, and  superb  parlors.  This  house  was  built  in  1868,  and  is  of  an  imposing 
form  of  architecture.  The  * Grand  Central  Hotel  is  on  Broadway,  opposite  Con- 
gress Hall,  and  is  a superb  house,  with  over  700  ft.  frontage,  and  650  rooms.  The 
* Clarendon  is  an  aristocratic  resort  amid  stately  elm-groves  opposite  Congress 
Park.  It  accommodates  500  guests.  The  American  (on  Broadway)  accommodates 
350  guests  ; the  Marvin  House  (corner  Broadway  and  Division  Streets),  250  ; the 
Continental,  200  ; the  Columbian,  200.  Besides  those  above-named,  there  are  42 
hotels  in  and  near  the  village,  together  with  several  great  water-cure  establish- 
ments under  the  care  of  experienced  doctors,  and  many  quiet  and  inexpensive 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


Route  53.  351 


boarding-houses.  The  charges  at  the  principal  hotels  are  84.50 -6.00  a day,  or 
825.  -35.00  a week,  while  every  variety  of  price  and  accommodation  may  be  found 
among  the  smaller  hotels.  Pleasant  quarters  may  be  found  in  the  boarding- 
houses for  from  8 10  to  8 20  a week. 

Carriages.  — 50  c.  each  passenger  for  a course  within  the  bounds  of  the  village 
(baggage  extra).  A coachman  and  span  may  be  hired  for  875.00  a month. 

Amusements. — The  Opera  House,  attached  to  the  Grand  Union  House, 
seats  1,500  persons.  There  are  nightly  hops  in  the  elegant  ball-rooms  attached  to 
the  three  chief  hotels,  and  grand  balls  once  a week  at  each  of  these  houses.  Guests 
pay  8 1 for  admission  to  the  balls,  which  are  the  most  brilliant  on  the  continent. 
The  Races  come  off  in  July  and  August  (second  week),  on  one  of  the  best  of  the 
American  race-courses  (1  M.  from  Congress  Spring).  The  swiftest  horses  are 
entered  at  these  famous  contests,  and  some  of  the  most  remarkable  races  of  the 
past  decade  have  taken  place  here.  Music  is  discoursed  by  bands  connected  with 
the  hotels,  several  times  daily,  and  promenades  take  place  in  the  parks,  parlors, 
and  piazzas. 

Churches. — The  Methodist  and  the  Episcopal  Societies  have  fine  buildings 
on  Washington  St.,  near  the  Grand  Union.  The  Baptist  Church  is  on  the  same 
street,  and  the  Presbyterian  Church  is  on  upper  Broadway.  The  Catholics  meet 
at  their  church  on  S.  Broadway  (near  the  Clarendon),  and  the  Congregation alists 
meet  on  Phila  St,  (over  the  Post-Office).  The  Y.  M.  C.  A.  reading-room  and  hall 
is  on  Phila  St. 

Omnibuses  run  frequently  to  the  springs  beyond  the  village  limits,  and  to 
Saratoga  Lake.  A small  steamer  plies  on  the  lake. 

Railroads.  From  Boston  to  Saratoga  by  Routes  22  and  53  ; by  Route  25  ; 
by  Routes  26  and  28  (the  favorite  route,  through  trains  in  9 hrs.).  From  New 
York  by  through  express  (without  change)  on  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  in  5^- hrs. 
(186  M.) ; or  by  Route  52  to  Albany,  and  thence  by  Route  53.  Saratoga  is  38  M. 
from  Albany ; 274  M.  from  Philadelphia  ; 412  M.  from  Washington  ; 841  M.  from 
Chicago  ; 392  M.  from  Quebec  ; 311  M.  from  Niagara;  45  M.  from  Lake  Cham- 
plain ; and  2,292  M.  from  New  Orleans.  The  Adirondack  Railroad  (station  on 
Washington  St.)  runs  N.  from  Saratoga  to  North  Creek  (57  M.). 

Saratoga  Springs,  one  of  the  foremost  of  the  summer-resorts  of  America 
and  of  the  world,  is  situated  in  Eastern  New  York,  about  mid  way  between 
Albany  and  Lake  George.  Like  Newport  by  the  sea,  it  is  often  called 
11  the  Queen  of  American  watering-places,”  and  this  dual  sovereignty  is 
generally  acknowledged.  The  village  is  situated  on  a plateau  a few  M. 
W.  of  the  Hudson  River,  and  has  a resident  population  of  about  9,000. 
The  hotel  system  of  Saratoga  is  unrivalled  elsewhere  in  the  world,  and 
although  equal  to  the  accommodation  of  16-18,000  guests,  it  is  taxed  to 
its  utmost  capacity  during  the  month  of  August  (the  season  opens  early 
in  June).  Broadway  is  the  main  street,  and  extends  for  several  miles, 
with  the  chief  hotels  near  its  c_entre  and  a succession  of  costly  villas  be- 
yond. Circular  St.  and  Lake  Ave.  are  also  famed  for  their  elegant  sum- 
mer-residences, while  large  medical  establishments  and  boarding-houses 
are  found  on  the  quieter  side-streets.  The  village  is  at  its  brightest  in 
August,  when  it  is  thronged  by  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  republic  and 
from  Europe,  while  over  3,000  private  carriages,  together  with  the  caval- 
cades from  the  public  livery-stables,  join  in  the  parade  of  fashion  on 
Broadway  and  the  Boulevard.  Although  the  greater  part  of  the  visitors 
come  from  the  central  Atlantic  States,  the  number  from  beyond  that  dis- 
trict is  still  so  great  as  to  give  a continental  or  even  a cosmopolitan  flavor 
to  the  summer  society.  The  merry  music  of  the  bands,  the  regular  pro- 


352  Route  53. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


cessions  of  elegant  carriages  on  the  favorite  drives,  the  crowds  gathering 
about  the  springs  at  the  fashionable  hours  for  drinking,  the  brilliant  hops 
and  the  world-renowned  balls  at  the  grand  hotels,  and  the  surging  of  the 
multitude  toward  the  railroad  station  at  the  time  of  the  incoming  trains, 
furnish  endless  resources  for  observation  and  amusement. 

Congress  Park  is  a pleasant  ground  for  a ramble,  and  consists  of  a 
low  ridge  sweeping  around  the  Congress  and  Columbian  Springs.  It  is 
opposite  the  chief  hotels,  and  is  well  laid  out  in  paths,  and  adorned  with 
many  of  the  great  elms  which  are  the  only  natural  beauties  to  be  found 
in  Saratoga.  N.  of  the  Parkis  the  Indian  Cam p,  where  a band  of  French 
half-breeds  and  Indians  encamp  during  the  summer,  carrying  on  a lucra- 
tive trade  in  bead-work,  baskets,  moccasins,  and  other  small-wares.  The 
Circular  Railway  is  near  the  camp,  and  is  supposed  to  afford  visitors  a 
beneficial  exercise.  A little  way  beyond  the  camp  (on  the  r.  side  of  Cir- 
cular St. ) is  the  popular  Temple  Grove  Seminary,  whose  fine  building  is 
used  during  the  summer  as  a boarding-house  for  families  On  the  same 
street,  and -just  beyond  the  Seminary,  is  the  Drs.  Strong’s  Institute  (100 
guests)  for  the  practice  of  the  water,  vacuum,  and  movement  cures. 
About  1 M.  N.  of  the  Park  (on  Broadway)  is  the  race-course  and  hotel  at 
Glen  Mitchell , with  finely  arranged  grounds  and  shady  groves. 

The  mineral  springs  rise  in  a stratum  of  Potsdam  sandstone  near  a great  break 
or  fissure  in  tbe  strata  underlying  the  Saratoga  Valley,  and  reach  the  surface  by 
passing  through  a bed  of  blue  clay.  Most  of  the  springs  are  owned  by  stock  com- 
panies, one  of  which  has  a capital  of  $1,000,000,  and  controls  the  Congress,  Colum- 
bian, and  Empire  Springs.  The  process  of  boring  artesian  wells  has  been  intro- 
duced with  much  profit,  and  some  of  the  most  valuable  of  the  new  sources  have 
been  discovered  in  that  way.  Immense  quantities  of  the  waters  are  sent  away  to 
all  parts  of  the  United  States,  for  the  treatment  of  invalids  at  home,  though  the 
process  of  bottling  and  packing  is  difficult  and  costly.  In  the  year  1S66,  360,000 
bottles  were  sent  away  from  the  Empire  Spring  alone.  The  principal  ingredients 
of  the  waters  are  carbonic-acid  and  salt,  with  bi-carbonates  of  lime,  magnesia, 
soda,  iron,  and  litliia,  of  which  the  varying  proportions  cause  the  peculiar  char- 
acteristics of  the  different  springs.  The  visitor  may  freely  drink  at  any  of  the 
sources,  the  water  being  dipped  up  by  boys  (to  whom  a small  gratuity  is  some- 
times given).  The  cathartic  waters  should  be  taken  before  breakfast,  three  glasses 
being  a fair  quantity  ; the  alterative  waters  should  be  taken  in  small  quantities 
throughout  the  day  ; the  tonic  (iron)  waters  must  be  drunk  after  midday  ; and 
the  diuretic  waters  should  be  taken  before  each  meal. 

The  Columbian  Spring  is  in  Congress  Park,  under  a neat  dome.  It 
was  discovered  in  1806,  and  is  the  favorite  among  the  residents  of  the  vil- 
lage. This  water  contains  a perceptible  amount  of  iron,  with  considerable 
carbonic-acid  gas,  and  acts  as  a decided  tonic  and  diuretic. 

The  Congress  Spring  is  under  a Doric  colonnade  in  Congress  Park, 
and  close  to  Congress  Hall.  It  was  found  by  a party  of  limiters  in  1792, 
and  was  so  named  because  there  was  a Congressman  among  their  number. 
It  was  soon  after  choked  by  unskilful  tubing,  and  was  found  again  in 
1804.  The  exportation  of  the  water  began  in  1823,  and  now  it  has  a con- 
tinental fame,  and  is  also  sold  in  Europe.  It  contains  in  each  gallon  400 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


Route  53.  353 


grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  143  grains  of  bi-carbonate  of  lime,  and  122 
grains  of  bi-carbonate  of  magnesia,  with  36  grains  of  other  elements. 
This  water  is  cathartic  and  alterative,  and  is  beneficial  in  diseases  of  the 
liver  and  kidneys.  More  of  it  is  drank  than  of  the  water  of  any  other 
American  spring,  and  its  vicinity  is  thronged  every  bright  summer  morn- 
ing with  health-seekers  from  the  hotels. 

The  Washington  Spring  is  in  the  Recreative  Garden  of  the  Clarendon 
Hotel  (across  Broadway  from  the  Columbian).  It  was  opened  in  1806, 
and  while  being  renovated  and  shafted  in  1858  a great  flood  of  water  and 
gas  burst  forth  into  the  subterranean  tunnel,  and  forced  the  workmen  to 
flee  for  their  lives.  This  is  the  most  pleasant  water  in  the  valley,  and  has 
a taste  of  iron,  with  strong  tonic  properties.  It  is  sometimes  called  “the 
Champagne  Spring,”  and  is  situated  among  stately  pine-groves. 

The  Crystal  Spring,  under  the  Grand  Central  Hotel,  was  discovered  in 
1870.  It  is  tainted  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  and  is  alterative  in  its 
effects.  The  Hathorn  Spring  is  opposite  Congress  Hall,  on  Spring  St. 
It  was  discovered  in  1868,  and  is  a very  powerful  cathartic.  Each  gallon 
contains  510  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  171  grains  of  bi-carbonate  of 
lime,  and  176  grains  of  bi-carbonate  of  magnesia,  besides  an  extraordinary 
amount  of  lithia.  The  Hamilton  Spring  is  near  the  Hathorn,  and  back 
of  Congress  Hall  (corner  Spring  and  Putnam  Sts.).  It  is  diuretic  and 
cathartic  in  its  operation,  and  is  mainly  used  for  diseases  of  the  kidneys. 
The  Putnam  Spring  is  on  Phila  St.,  near  the  Post-Office,  and  is  tonic  in 
its  effects. 

The  Pavilion  Spring  is  in  a pretty  park  on  Lake  Ave. , very  near 
Broadway.  It  was  tubed  n 1839,  and  has  a wide  reputation  for  its 
cathartic  properties  and  its  efficacy  in  dyspepsia  and  bilious  complaints. 
Of  late  years  it  has  improved  in  quality  and  in  popularity.  The  United 
States  Spring  is  under  the  same  beautiful  colonnade,  and  is  tonic  in  its 
properties,  while  from  its  sparkling  character  it  is  used  for  giving  life  and 
flavor  to  still  wines. 

The  sources  previously  mentioned  are  near  each  other,  in  the  centre  of 
the  village.  The  Seltzer,  High  Rock,  Star,  Empire,  Red,  Excelsior,  and 
Eureka  are  in  a long  line  in  the  N.  part  of  the  village.  The  Seltzer 
Spring  is  on  the  old  Willow  Walk,  not  far  N.  of  the  Pavilion.  This  is 
the  least  saline  of  the  Saratoga  waters  and  closely  resembles  the  Nassau 
Spring  of  Germany.  It  bubbles  up  through  a high  glass-tube,  agitated 
now  and  then  by  the  passage  of  carbonic-acid  gas,  It  is  a pleasant  and  in- 
vigorating beverage. 

The  High  Rock  Spring  is  about  150  ft.  from  the  Seltzer,  and  is  the 
oldest  known  of  the  springs.  In  1767  a party  of  Indians  brought  Sir  Wm, 
Johnson  thither  on  a litter,  and  after  spending  some  weeks  here  drinking 
the  medicinal  waters,  he  was  cured.  The  water  rises  in  a cylindrical 

w 


354  Route  53. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


opening  in  a rock  of  conical  shape,  3J  ft.  high  and  24  ft.  around,  — a 
natural  curb  of  tufa  which  has  been  formed  by  the  mineral  deposits  from 
the  spring.  The  water  is  decidedly  saline  to  the  taste. 

The  Star  Spring  (formerly  called  the  Iodine)  is  near  the  High  Rock. 
This  is  the  favorite  mineral  water  in  New  England,  and  vast  quantities  of 
it  are  shipped  in  kegs  and  bottles.  It  is  cathartic  in  effect,  and  acid  in 
taste,  and  is  beneficial  for  rheumatism  and  cutaneous  diseases. 

The  Empire  Spring  is  N.  of  the  Star  (at  the  head  of  Circular  St.).  It 
very  much  resembles  the  Congress  water  in  its  constituents  and  effects 
(cathartic).  The  Red  Spring  is  just  beyond  the  Empire  (on  Spring  Ave.) 
This  water  is  chiefly  (and  extensively)  used  as  a wash,  and  is  especially 
efficacious  in  diseases  of  the  skin  and  the  blood.  Dyspepsia  is  benefited, 
and  salt  rheum  is  cured  by  this  agency.  The  “ A ” Spring  (on  Spring 
Ave.,  beyond  the  Red)  is  becoming  popular  as  a cathartic  agent,  having, 
moreover,  a pleasant  taste. 

The  Excelsior  Spring  is  nearly  2 M.  N.  E.  of  Congress  Park,  and  is 
reached  by  Spring  Ave.,  or  by  a forest-path  turning  off  from  Lake  Ave., 
and  leading  through  beautiful  woodland  scenery.  The  Excelsior  water  is 
pleasant  to  the  taste,  and  mildly  cathartic  in  its  operations.  Near  this 
place  are  the  Minnehaha,  Union,  and  other  sources,  forming  a group  called 
the  Ten  Springs.  The  Eureka  Spring  is  reached  by  following  the  park- 
like valley  for  a few  rods  beyond  the  Excelsior.  It  is  situated  amid 
charming  forest  scenery,  and  is  gaining  popularity  as  a cathartic  agent, 
beneficial  for  cases  of  dyspepsia,  and  liver  and  stomach  diseases.  Near 
this  place  is  the  Eureka  White  Sulphur  Spring,  with  a copious  flow  of 
water  charged  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  This  is  one  of  the  best  hepatic 
springs  in  the  State,  and  is  efficient  in  many  affections  of  the  glands,  skin, 
stomach,  &c.  It  is  taken  internally  and  externally,  — the  latter  at  the 
bath-houses  (50  c.  a bath)  in  the  vicinity.  Hourly  stages  run  from  the 
great  hotels  to  the  Eureka  Springs. 

The  Glacier  Spouting  Spring  is  1 M.  S.  of  the  village,  near  the  Balls- 
ton  road.  It  was  discovered  in  1871  by  sinking  an  artesian  well,  300  ft. 
deep,  to  the  Trenton  limestone  stratum.  The  proportion  of  mineral 
constituents  in  this  water  is  very  large,  and  it  is  a powerful  cathartic, 
beneficial  also  in  diseases  of  the  kidneys  and  liver. 

The  Geyser  Spouting  Spring  is  not  far  from  the  Glacier,  near  the 
Ballston  road  and  the  railroad.  It  was  discovered  in  1870  by  boring  a 
well  140  ft.  deep,  and  the  water  jets  up  for  over  25  ft.,  being  impelled  by 
carbonic-acid  gas.  This  is  the  coldest  of  the  waters  of  Saratoga,  and  has 
a larger  amount  of  mineral  matter  than  any  other.  It  is  strongly  cathartic, 
and  is  lively  and  pleasant  to  the  taste.  Between  the  Glacier  and  the 
Geyser  is  the  Ellis  Spring  (chalybeate). 

Saratoga  Lake  is  about  4 M.  from  the  village,  and  is  reached  by  the 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


Route  53.  355 


favorite  drive  called  the  Boulevard  (entered  by  following  the  street  which 
lies  between  Congress  Hall  and  the  Park).  This  road  passes  near  the 
race-course  and  the  trout-ponds.  Moon's  Lake  House  is  the  favorite  of 
the  lake  hotels,  and  furnishes  rare  dinners  of  fish  and  game,  at  high  prices. 
The  fried  potatoes  of  this  house  are  considered  a great  delicacy.  Saratoga 
Lake  is  9 M.  long  and  3-5  M.  wide,  and  furnishes  good  fishing  and  boat- 
ing. The  scenery  is  tame,  although  the  views  from  Chapman’s  Hill  (1  M. 
from  the  Lake  House)  and  Wagman’s  Hill  are  pleasing.  Lake  Lovely  is 
a sequestered  pond  among  the  hills  near  the  Boulevard.  It  is  a favorite 
place  for  picnics,  and  has  some  fine  woodland  scenery. 

Lake  Luzerne  is  22  M.  N.  of  Saratoga  (by  the  Adirondack  Railroad),  and 
is  a picturesque  sheet  of  water  with  two  good  hotels  (Rockwell’s  and  the 
Wayside).  The  railroad  exhibits  some  remarkable  engineering  and  steadily 
rising  grades,  while  the  lake  affords  good  fishing  and  boating.  Stages  run 
from  Luzerne  to  Caldwell  (10  M.). 

The  battle  of  Stillwater  was  fought  on  Bemis  Heights,  about  15  M.  S.  E.  of  the 
Springs,  and  2 M.  from  the  Hudson  River.  Gen.  Burgoyne  marched  south  from 
Canada  in  June,  1777,  with  a well-appointed  British  army,  strengthened  by 
German,  Canadian,  and  Indian  auxiliaries.  This  force  was  to  meet  another 
British  army  advancing  from  New  York,  somewhere  on  the  line  of  the  Hudson, 
and  thus  cut  the  rebellious  colonies  in  two,  to  be  subdued  in  detail.  Burgoyne 
took  Fort  Ticonderoga,  July  6,  and  lost  a large  detachment  of  his  best  German 
troops,  who  were  cut  off  by  the  Vermonters  at  Bennington,  Aug.  16.  On  Sept. 
14  the  British  crossed  the  Hudson  and  encamped  at  Saratoga,  near  the  American 
army.  Burgoyne  made  an  attack  the  next  day  on  the  lines  at  Bemis’  Heights, 
which  had  been  fortified  by  Kosciuszko,  but  after  a long  and  indecisive  battle,  was 
forced  to  suspend  his  southward  march.  He  fortified  his  camp,  and  waited  for  Sir 
Henry  Clinton’s  army  to  achieve  its  northward  march  and  rescue  him.  His  sup- 
plies and  outposts  were  cut  off  daily,  and,  on  October  7,  he  advanced  for  another 
battle.  Morgan’s  Virginians  attacked  his  right,  the  8th,  9th,  and  10th  Mass, 
under  Gen.  Poor,  were  led  against  his  left,  while  other  troops  fell  on  his  front. 
The  British  retreated,  leaving  their  artillery,  and  the  Americans  stormed  the 
fortified  camp  after  desperate  fighting.  Burgoyne  fell  back  on  his  old  camps  by 
Fish  Creek,  but  Gen.  Fellows,  with  a New  England  brigade  and  batteries,  prevent- 
ed his  crossing  the  river,  while  Gates  with  12,000  Continental  troops  and  New 
York  militia  faced  him  on  the  S.  His  provisions  gave  out,  the  camp  was  inces- 
santly cannonaded  by  the  American  batteries,  and  Clinton’s  army  had  failed  to 
connect,  so,  on  Oct.  16,  the  British  army,  consisting  of  5,791  men,  with  42  can- 
non, and  all  their  stores,  surrendered  to  Gen.  Gates.  They  were  held  as  captives 
until  the  close  of  the  war  (over  5 years),  first  at  Cambridge,  Mass.,  and  afterward 
at  Charlottesville,  Va. 


The  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  runs  N.  E.  from  Saratoga,  by 
Gansevoort  and  Moreau  to  Fort  Edward,  on  the  Hudson  (two  hotels). 
This  place  was  fortified  in  1709,  and  in  1755  Fort  Edward  was  built  at  the 
confluence  of  a broad  creek  with  the  river.  The  ramparts  were  16  ft.  high 
and  22  ft.  thick,  and  were  provided  with  4 bastions  and  bordered  by  a 
broad  wet  ditch.  It  was  a very  important  station  on  the  old  military  road 
to  the  N.,  and  in  1777  was  held  by  5,500  Americans,  who  retired  before 
the  advance  of  Burgoyne.  About  this  time  the  beautiful  J ane  McRea  was 


356  Route  53. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


murdered  by  Indians,  near  the  village,  under  circumstances  which  have 
caused  her  story  to  become  one  of  the  saddest  in  the  New  World  history. 

Passengers  who  wish  to  go  to  Lake  Champlain  direct,  continue  on  the  train  for 
20  M.  farther,  passing  up  the  valley  of  Wood  Creek  to  Whitehall.  In  going  toward 
Whitehall  the  Fort  Ann  Mts,  are  seen  on  the  1.,  and  the  course  of  the  Champlain 
Canal  is  followed.  Fort  Ann  Village  is  on  the  site  of  an  old  colonial  fort,  near 
which  Putnam  and  500  Rangers  were  defeated  by  the  French  partisan  Molang,  with 
a large  French  and  Indian  force.  The  Rangers  suffered  fearfully,  and  Putnam  was 
captured.  In  1777  the  Americans  attacked  the  9tli  line  regiment  of  the  British 
army,  in  a ravine  now  traversed  by  the  railroad  (|  M.  N.  of  the  station),  but  after 
an  obstinate  engagement  the  assailants  were  forced  to  withdraw.  Whitehall 
{Hall’s  Hotel ) is  a prosperous  lumbering  village,  situated  in  a rugged  ravine  under 
Skene’s  Mt.  It  was  settled  by  Col.  Philip  Skene  in  1765,  and  a large  stone  man- 
sion and  military  works  were  erected.  It  was  captured  by  Herrick  and  the  Green 
Mt.  Boys  in  1775,  and  in  1779  was  confiscated  by  the  State  of  New  York,  on  ac- 
count of  Skene’s  adhesion  to  the  king,  the  British  fleet  here  engaged  the 
Americans  flying  from  Ticonderoga,  July  7,  1777,  destroyed  several  galleys,  and 
took  128  cannon  and  a vast  amount  of  supplies.  The  name  of  “ Whitehall  ” was 
adojded  in  place  of  Skenesborough,  and  in  1812  the  place  was  well  fortified.  In 
1814  Macdonough’s  fleet,  with  the  British  squadron  which  it  had  taken  in  the 
naval  battle  at  Plattsburg,  came  to  this  point,  and  here  the  “Saratoga,”  “Con- 
fiance,”  and  other  vessels  sank  at  their  moorings.  Whitehall  is  24  M.  from  Fort 
Ticonderoga  (by  the  lake).  Whitehall  to  Rutland,  see  Route  28. 

Passengers  for  Lake  George  change  cars  at  Fort  Edward,  and  take  a 
train  which  passes  over  a branch  railroad  to  Glens  Falls  (6  M.),  a flourish- 
ing factory -village  with  about  5,000  inhabitants,  which  has  but  lately 
recovered  from  a fire  which  utterly  destroyed  it  (in  1863).  The  Hudson 
here  falls  50-60  ft.  over  a long  and  rugged  ledge,  while  the  State  has 
built  a great  dam  above,  which  feeds  the  Champlain  Canal.  The  island 
below  the  falls  is  associated  with  Cooper’s  “ Last  of  the  Mohicans.” 
“ Here,  amid  the  roaring  of  this  very  cataract,  if  romance  maybe  believed, 
the  voice  of  Uncas,  the  last  of  the  Mohicans,  was  heard  and  heeded  ; here 
Hawk-Eye  kept  his  vigils  ; here  David  breathed  his  nasal  melody,”  &c. 

Stages  run  from  Glens  Falls  to  Caldwell,  9 M.  N.  About  5 M.  beyond  the  vil- 
lage the  road  passes  near  Williams’s  Rock,  a large  boulder  which  marks  the  scene 
of  “The  Bloody  Morning-Scout.”  On  Sept.  7,  1755,  when  the  French  army  of 
Dieskau  was  marching  down  from  Crown  Point  against  the  Anglo-colonial  army 
under  Gen.  Johnson,  Col.  Ephraim  Williams  was  sent  out  with  1,200  men  to  en- 
gage the  French  van-guard.  200  of  his  men  were  Mohawk  Indians,  under  the 
command  of  their  noble,  white-haired  chief,  Hendrick.  The  detachment  ad- 
vanced into  the  very  centre  of  the  invading  army  (which  was  marching  in  a great, 
half-moon  curve),  and  was  speedily  enveloped  and  crushed  by  the  enemy.  A ter- 
rible massacre  ensued  (in  a ravine  still  called  the  Bloody  Defile),  and  Williams 
(the  founder  of  Williams  College)  and  Hendrick  fell,  with  most  of  their  men.  The 
bodies  of  the  slain  were  thrown  into  Bloody  Pond,  a quiet  pool  in  a glen  near  Wil- 
liams’s Rock.  Dieskau  then  advanced  rapidly  to  attack  the  colonial  camp  at  Lake 
George.  Johnson  had  fortified  his  position,  and  the  Indian  and  Canadian  auxil- 
iaries in  the  attacking  force  were  soon  put  to  flight  by  the  fire  of  the  batteries, 
while  the  French  regulars  suffered  heavily,  and  were  finally  repulsed  with  the  loss 
of  700  killed  and  wounded.  Dieskau  was  wounded  and  made  prisoner,  while  John- 
son, though  wounded,  was  made  a baronet  of  Great  Britain,  and  received  the 
thanks  of  Parliament.  Fort  William  Henry  was  soon  afterwards  erected,  armed 
with  42  cannon,  stored  with  vast  supplies,  and  garrisoned  by  2,500  men.  In  Au- 
gust, 1757,  this  fort  was  beleaguered  by  10,000  Frenchmen  and  Canadians,  under 
the  Marquis  de  Montcalm.  After  a siege  of  several  days’  duration,  having  received  no 
aid  from  the  colonial  army  at  Fort  Edward,  the  fort  was  surrendered.  As  soon  as 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


Route  53.  357 


the  disarmed  garrison  marched  out,  the  Indian  allies  of  Montcalm  fell  furiously 
upon  them,  and  a fearful  massacre  ensued.  Hundreds  of  the  defenceless  colonials 
Avere  put  to  death  under  the  Avails  of  the  fort  before  the  slaughter  could  be  stayed. 
Although  Montcalm  retired  to  Fort  Carillon  (Ticonderoga)  with  his  trophies  and 
captured  batteries,  the  site  of  Fort  William  Henry  Avas  never  re-occupied,  a neAv 
work  called  Fort  George,  with  a central  citadel  of  stone,  having  been  built  1 M.  S. 
E.  of  the  old  fort. 

Caldwell  is  a dull  village  at  the  S.  end  of  Lake  George,  which  enjoys  a 
slight  local  distinction  from  the  fact  of  its  being  the  shire-town  of  Warren 
County.  There  are  two  small  inns  here,  and  the  Lake  House  (accommo- 
dating 175  guests,  at  $ 3-3.50  a day).  The  * Fort  William  Henry  Hotel 
is  a vast  and  sumptuous  house,  on  the  site  of  the  old  fort,  and  amid  finely 
arranged  grounds.  It  accommodates  1,200  guests,  and  charges  $5.00  a 
day  for  transient  visitors.  The  splendid  frontage  of  the  hotel  looks  out 
over  the  lake,  which  is  close  at  hand.  Some  remnants  of  the  old  fort  may 
be  found  here,  and  Fort  George  (1  M.  distant)  is  a picturesque  ruin. 
Rattlesnake  Cobble  is  an  easily  ascended  hill  near  Caldwell,  which  com- 
mands a broad  view  down  the  lake.  Prospect  and  French  Mts.  are  also 
ascended  from  the  village,  and  give  varying  views  of  the  lake  and  its 
shores. 

Stages  run  from  Caldwell  to  Lake  Luzerne  ; also  to  Warrensburg, 
Chester,  Schroon  Lake,  and  the  southern  Adirondacks. 


Lake  George 

was  first  visited  by  Father  Jogues,  a French  Jesuit  missionary,  whose  canoe  en- 
tered its  quiet  waters  on  the  eve  of  the  festival  of  Corpus  Christi,  1646.  In  honor 
of  that  sacred  anniversary  he  named  these  bright  waters  “LeLac  du  St.  Sacre- 
ment  ” (The  Lake  of  the  Holy  Sacrament),  and  then  passed  on  to  a heroic  martyr- 
dom at  the  hands  of  the  Mohawks,  fulfilling  the  prophecy  which  he  had  made 
when  leaving  Montreal,  “ Ibo,  nec  redibo.”  For  a century  the  lake  was  known  in 
the  border  chronicles  as  the  path  of  hostile  incursions  or  of  religious  devotees 
passing  to  the  land  of  the  fierce  Mohawks.  Courcelles,  Tracy,  Schuyler,  Menteth, 
— French,  Dutch,  Indians,  English,  diversified  the  record.  In  1746  Sir  William 
J ohnson  concluded  a league  with  the  northern  Indians,  on  the  shores  of  St.  Sac- 
rement,  and  in  1755  he  led  an  army  to  the  lake,  and  named  it  Lake  George,  “not 
only  in  honor  of  his  Majesty,  but  to  ascertain  his  undoubted  dominion.”  (This 
name  is  groAving  more  and  more  out  of  favor  year  by  year,  and  most  people  would 
prefer  either  the  French  “St.  Sacrement,”  or  the  Indian  “Horicon,” — meaning 
“ Silvery  Waters,” — suggested  by  Cooper.)  Johnson’s  force  was  soon  menaced 
by  2,000  Frenchmen  and  Indians  under  the  Baron  Dieskau,  but  “the  Bloody 
Morning  Scout”  was  followed  by  a total  defeat  of  the  inAmding  force,  in  which  the 
French  regulars  were  nearly  annihilated.  Fort  William  Henry  Avas  built  soon  af- 
ter, and  Rogers  and  Putnam,  Avith  their  hardy  Rangers,  scouted  OA^er  the  lake  to- 
ward the  French  fortress  at  Ticonderoga.  In  March,  1757,  Rigaud  destroyed  300 
English  batteaux  and  several  sloops  near  Fort  William  Henry,  and  in  August  the 
Marquis  de  Montcalm  passed  down  the  lake  with  6,000  men  in  boats  and  3,000 
men  marching  on  the  W.  shore.  After  picketing  the  southern  roads,  Montcalm 
opened  a cannonade  on  the  fort  from  batteries  near  the  present  site  of  the  Lake 
House,  and  soon  compelled  its  surrender.  After  the  ensuing  massacre  of  the  dis- 
armed garrison,  the  fort  was  destroyed.  But  the  most  imposing  spectacles  which 
this,  or  any  other  American  lake,  has  seen,  occurred  in  1758  and  1759.  In  the 
former  year,  Gen.  Abercrombie  advanced  up  the  lake  with  16,000  men,  in  900 
batteaux  and  190  whale-boats,  convoyed  by  gunboats,  all  brilliant  with  rich  uni- 
forms and  waving  banners,  Avhile  the  music  of  numerous  regimental  bands  echoed 


358  Route  53. 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


among  the  hills.  (This  pageant  is  finely  described  by  Cooper,  in  “ Satanstoe,” 
Chapters  XXII.  - XXV.)  A few  days  later  the  shattered  and  defeated  army  passed 
up  the  lake  to  Fort  William  Henry,  having  left  over  2,000  of  their  number  dead 
and  dying  under  the  walls  of  Fort  Carillon  (Ticonderoga).  In  1758  Gen.  Amherst 
led  11,000  men  in  another  grand  martial  procession  down  the  lake,  and  this  march 
ended  in  the  Conquest  of  Canada.  In  1775  the  abandoned  Forts  George  and  Gage 
(at  Caldwell)  were  occupied  by  New  York  militia,  and  afterwards  by  a detach- 
ment from  Hinman’s  Conn.  Reg.,  and  by  Col.  Van  Scliaick’s  N.  Y.  Reg.  In  the 
summer  of  1777  Fort  George  was  chosen  as  the  army  hospital,  on  account  of  its 
salubrity,  and  3,000  sick  men  were  sent  here.  Hundreds  died  of  the  small-pox 
and  typhus-fever,  and  among  them  was  the  Baron  de  Woedtke,  a Prussian  noble 
who  had  just  accepted  a general’s  commission.  In  1777,  after  the  fall  of  Ticon- 
deroga, Fort  George  and  the  lake  were  abandoned  by  the  Americans,  but  were  re- 
occupied after  Burgoyne’s  surrender.  In  October,  1780,  the  garrison  of  Fort 
George  was  defeated  and  cut  to  pieces,  near  Bloody  Pond,  and  the  fort  and  the 
fleet  on  the  lake  were  taken  by  the  British.  Since  that  day,  peace  has  dwelt  on 
these  tranquil  waters. 

Lake  George,  “the  Como  of  America,”  is  situated  in  Northeastern  New 
York,  near  the  Adirondack  Mts.,  and  is  about  300  ft.  above  the  sea.  It 
is  36  M.  long,  and  1 - 4 M.  wide,  and  its  shores  are  generally  sterile  and 
fringed  with  lofty  and  abrupt  hills.  There  are  but  three  petty  villages 
on  the  lake,  and  a highway  passes  through  them  on  the  W.  shore,  con- 
necting Caldwell  with  Bolton,  Hague,  and  Ticonderoga.  The  vicinity  of 
frowning  mts.,  the  great  number  of  islands,  the  transparency  of  the  waters, 
and  the  bracing  purity  of  the  air  of  the  highlands,  unite  to  increase  the 
claims  of  Lake  George  as  a summer-resort,  while  its  scenery  has  been  lik- 
ened not  only  to  that  of  Como,  but  also  to  Lake  Windermere  and  Loch 
Katrine. 

The  steamer  “ Minnehaha  ” leaves  Caldwell  every  morning,  and  runs  to 
the  N.  end  of  the  lake,  returning  in  the  afternoon.  The  steamer  “ Ga- 
nouskie”  makes  daily  trips  between  Caldwell,  Bolton,  and  14-Mile  Island. 

The  steamer  leaves  its  pier  (at  the  great  hotel)  and  crosses  to  Crosbyside, 
on  the  E.  shore,  with  a large  hotel  situated  in  pleasant  groves  by  the 
shore,  and  looking  across  to  Caldwell.  French  Mt.  towers  to  the  E.,  and 
is  covered  with  forests.  Tea  Island  (so  named  from  a tea-house,  or  arbor, 
erected  in  1828)  is  next  passed,  1 M.  from  Caldwell,  and  then  Diamond 
Island  is  approached,  1 \ M.  beyond.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  beau- 
tiful quartz  crystals  which  are  found  here,  and  the  place  was  inhabited 
in  the  early  part  of  this  century,  — the  mistress  of  the  family  being  gen- 
erally known  as  “the  Lady  of  the  Lake.”  Diamond  Island  was  fortified 
by  Burgoyne  in  1777,  and  was  garrisoned  by  part  of  the  47th  line  regi- 
ment under  Capt.  Aubrey.  It  was  attacked  by  Col.  John  Brown,  with 
the  New  England  militia  who  had  swept  the  outworks  of  Ticonderoga, 
but  Aubrey  repulsed  the  Americans  with  artillery,  and  then  drove  them 
away  (“with  great  loss”)  by  an  attack  with  his  gunboats.  Brown  lost 
all  his  vessels  and  cannon,  and  many  men.  Dunham’s  Bay  and  Mont- 
calm's Bay  are  passed  on  the  E.,  the  latter  being  beyond  Long  Island, 
which  is  passed  on  the  E.  (with  the  Three  Sisters  islets  on  the  W.).  The 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


Route  53.  359 


Trout  Pavilion  is  a sequestered  hotel  above  Montcalm’s  Bay,  near  the 
best  fishing-grounds,  and  frequented  by  fishermen.  The  Fort  Ann  Mts. 
loom  up  darkly  on  the  E.  as  the  steamer  crosses  the  lake,  with  the  Three 
Brothers  on  the  W.,  and  Dome  and  Recluse  Islands  on  the  N.  This  is 
the  broadest  part  of  the  lake,  and  affords  views  of  rare  beauty,  with  the 
graceful  Dome  Island  (which  resembles  Ellen’s  Isle,  in  Loch  Katrine) 
prominently  seen.  Recluse  Islomd  is  a beautiful  spot  just  W.  of  the 
Dome,  with  a cheerful  summer-villa  embowered  among  trees.  This  island 
has  the  remains  of  fortifications  which  were  built  by  Abercrombie’s  army 
in  1758,  while  the  views  from  its  N.  and  E.  shores  are  exquisitely  beauti- 
ful. The  steamer  now  rounds  in  at  Bolton,  a small  village  with  a noble 
outlook  over  the  broadest  expanse  of  the  lake.  There  are  two  large  and 
comfortable  family  hotels  here,  and  in  the  environs  of  the  village  is  the 
quaint  old  stone  Church  of  St.  Sacrament.  The  terms  at  the  Mohican 
House  (directly  on  the  shore)  are  low,  and  the  accommodations  are  good. 
Prospect  Mt.  is  back  of  the  village,  and  commands  a broad  and  delight- 
ful view,  embracing  the  widest  part  of  the  lake,  Montcalm’s  and  Gana- 
souke  (or  Northwest)  Bays,  Recluse,  Dome,  and  Green  Ids.  and  the 
Narrows,  and  Tongue  and  Black  Mts.  in  the  N.  and  N.  E.  Ganasouke 
Bay  extends  for  6 M.  to  the  N.  above  Bolton,  being  separated  from  the 
lake  by  the  lofty  promontory  of  Tongue  Mt .,  where  deer  abound  in  the 
late  fall  and  winter.  As  the  boat  leaves  Bolton,  Parodi  (or  Sloop)  Island 
is  passed  on  the  1.  (so  named  because  the  singer,  Signora  Parodi,  erected 
a cross  here  in  1851).  On  the  N%  are  Green  and  Hog  Islands,  closing  the 
entrance  to  Ganasouke  Bay,  while  Tongue  Mt.  is  on  the  W.  and  Black 
Mt.  on  the  E.,  as  the  steamer  crosses  toward  the  lofty  palisades  called 
Shelving  Rock,  with  the  innumerable  islands  of  the  Narrows  on  the  1. 
14- Mile  Island  is  just  W.  of  Shelving  Rock,  and  has  a fine  hotel,  which 
is  much  visited  by  city  gentlemen  for  the  sake  of  the  fishing  in  the  vicinity. 
The  Shelving  Rock  Fall  is  about  1 M.  S.  of  the  hotel  (on  the  mainland), 
and  is  a small  and  graceful  cascade.  The  island  is  14  M.  from  Caldwell, 
and  Derrom’s  Hotel,  charges  $2-2.50  a day  for  board  ($10-14.00  a 
Week).  The  steamer  now  enters  the  Narrows,  where  the  lake  is  contracted 
between  high  mts.,  and  a fleet  of  small  islands  is  anchored  in  the  channel. 
These  islets  were  the  scene  of  numerous  combats  in  the  colonial  days,  but 
are  now  deserted,  save  for  the  visits  of  sportsmen,  who  find  large  trout  in 
their  cool  shadows.  Steaming  down  between  Tongue  Mt.  and  Black  Mt. 
(2,878  ft.  high  ; sometimes  ascended  with  guides,  for  the  sake  of  its  view) 
the  “ Minnehaha”  passes  the  Hen  and  Chickens,  Hatchet,  Half-Way,  and 
Floating  Battery  Islands,  with  the  N.  peaks  of  Black  Mt.,  called  variously, 
Elephant’s  Ridge  or  Sugar  Loaf.  Just  N.  of  the  Floating  Battery  group 
is  Vicar’s  Island,  with  the  palisades  of  Buck  Mt.  on  the  W.,  and  the 
hamlet  of  Dresden  seen  down  Bosom  Bay,  on  the  E.  Sabbath  Day  Point 


360  Route  53. 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


is  soon  approached  (on  the  W. ),  — a long,  low  promontory  running  out 
from  rich  meadows  and  still  retaining  the  air  of  peace  and  restfulness 
which  won  it  the  name  it  hears. 

In  1757  a sharp  skirmish  occurred  at  Harbor  Island,  off  this  Point,  and  in  July 
of  that  year  the  1st  New  Jersey  regiment  was  sent  on  a scout  down  the  lake.  De 
Carbiereand  400  Frenchmen  and  Indians  ambushed  the  Jersey  Blues  in  the  archi- 
pelago off  the  Point,  and  defeated  them  with  great  slaughter.  131  of  the 
Americans  were  killed,  12  escaped,  and  180  were  made  prisoners,  many  of  whom 
were  put  to  death  with  horrible  tortures.  On  the  evening  of  July  5, 1758,  the  van- 
guard and  centre  of  Abercrombie’s  grand  army  (light  infantry  and  regulars) 
rested  on  Sabbath  Day  Point  from  sunset  until  near  midnight,  waiting  for  the 
three  brigades  of  Provincials  and  the  artillery  to  come  up.  In  1777  a sharp  con- 
flict took  place  here  between  American  militia  and  Tories,  and  during  the  present 
century  peace  has  settled  along  these  shores,  although  the  commonplace  farm- 
houses on  the  Point  have  marred  the  natural  beauty  of  the  place. 

The  vast  bulk  of  Black  Mt.  is  prominent  in  the  S.  E.,  as  the  “Minne- 
haha ” runs  N.  to  the  village  of  Hague , situated  on  a widening  of  the 
lake,  where  it  is  4 M.  across.  Garfield’s  is  a favorite  hotel  at  Hague,  and 
from  this  point  parties  go  to  the  lakes  (abounding  in  fish),  of  Pharaoh  (12 
M.  N.  W.),  Brant,  and  Schroon.  As  the  steamer  gains  the  middle  of  the 
lake  again,  the  prospect  of  the  pass  between  Rogers’  Slide  and  Anthony’s 
Nose,  and  the  retrospect  of  the  Narrows  and  its  island-flotilla  afford 
delightful  views.  Friends’  Point  and  Islands  are  passed  on  the  W.,  and 
then  Anthony's  Nose  (on  the  N.  E. ) pushes  out  its  rocky  ledges  over  the 
deepest  water  in  the  lake  (400  ft.).  Rogers * Slide  is  on  the  W.  shore, 
and  is  a long  precipice  which  runs  down  into  the  water. 

There  is  a legend  to  the  effect  that  Major  Robert  Rogers  (the  chief  of  the 
Rangers,  and  afterwards  a dangerous  Tory  officer)  was  chased  to  the  verge  of  this 
cliff  by  Indians  (in  the  winter  of  1758).  Suddenly  reversing  his  snow-shoes,  and 
throwing  his  haversack  down  on  the  ice-bound  lake,  he  retraced  his  tracks,  and 
got  away  down  an  adjacent  ravine  before  his  pursuers  arrived.  The  Indians  fol- 
lowed the  tracks  leading  to  the  precipice,  and  saw  none  leading  away,  whence 
they  concluded  that  he  had  cast  himself  over ; and  when,  a lew  minutes  later, 
they  saw  him  skimming  away  over  the  ice  toward  Fort  William  Henry,  they  at- 
tributed his  escape  to  the  protection  of  the  Great  Spirit. 

Passing  now  by  Prisoners’  Island  (where  the  French  kept  their  captives), 
with  Lord  Howe's  Point  on  the  1.,  the  “ Minnehaha”  soon  reaches  the  end 
of  the  lake.  Large  four-horse  stages  are  in  waiting  at  the  wharf,  and  are 
soon  filled  and  en  route  for  Lake  Champlain.  The  road  is  a disgrace  to 
the  State,  and  in  wet  weather  is  almost  impassable;  but  it  is  only  4 M. 
long  (fare  by  stage,  75  c.).  The  stream,  which  is  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George,  falls  about  240  ft.  in  its  way  to  Lake  Champlain  (3-4  M.  dis- 
tant), and  near  the  chief  falls  is  the  small  but  increasing  manufacturing 
villag®  of  Ticonderoga  (2  inns).  2 M.  beyond,  with  beautiful  lake-views 
in  front,  the  stage  passes  the  ruins  of  the  old  fortress,  and  stops  at  the 
hotel  and  pier  of  the  Champlain  steamers. 


LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 


Route  53.  361 


Lake  Champlain 

was  called  by  the  Iroquois  Indians  Caniaderi  Guaranti  (“The  Gate  of  the 
Country  ”),  while  the  Abenaquis  called  it  Petoubouque  (“  The  Waters  that  lie  be- 
tween ” ; i.  e.  between  their  land  and  that  of  the  Iroquois) ; and  other  Indians 
called  it  Saranac.  For  nearly  half  a century  it  was  called  Corlear’s  Lake  by  the 
English  and  Dutch,  in  memory  of  a Dutch  gentleman  who  was  drowned  there.  In 
the  summer  of  1609  a small  exploring  party  set  out  from  Quebec  under  Samuel 
de  Champlain,!  the  Governor  of  Canada,  and  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Richelieu  Rivers  to  the  Chambly  Rapids,  where  they  met  a war-party  of  Hurons. 
All  the  Frenchmen  save  Champlain  and  two  others  were  sent  back  to  Quebec, 
and  those  three  joined  the  war-party.  July  4,  1609,  they  entered  the  lake,  and 
on  the  following  day  they  defeated  200  Iroquois  at  Crown  Point,  Champlain 
having  shot  their  chief  with  his  arquebus.  The  Hurons  returned  in  triumph, 
with  60  scalps,  and  the  valiant  Frenchman,  having  found  the  road  to  the  lake, 
was  left  to  make  several  subsequent  explorations  and  campaigns  thereon.  A 
series  of  war-parties  traversed  this  route  for  nearly  two  centuries,  and  the  lake 
became  the  scene  of  long  campaigns  and  desperate  battles.  In  1690,  200  French 
regulars  and  a swarm  of  Indians  passed  up  in  canoes,  and  marched  to  Schenec- 
tady, which  they  destroyed  with  60  of  its  people,  returning  with  27  prisoners,  and 
40  horses  laden  with  plunder.  Shortly  afterward  Col.  Schuyler  and  200  Mohawks 
passed  the  lake  and  the  Richelieu  River,  and  destroyed  the  Canadian  town  of 
Sorel.  In  1695  the  chivalrous  Count  de  Frontenac  (a  relative  of  Madame  de 
Maintenon)  launched  a fleet  of  small  craft,  and  passed  down  to  Whitehall  with 
700  Frenchmen  and  Algonquins.  After  a daring  foray  through  the  Mohawk  Valley 
and  nearly  to  the  forts  at  Albany,  he  retired  safely  by  Whitehall,  pursued  by 
Schuyler  and  the  Hudson  Valley  people.  The  lake  was  held  by  the  French  and 
commanded  by  their  fortifications  until  1759,  when  Lord  Amherst  built  a flotilla 
in  South  Bay,  with  a flag  ship  mounting  18  guns,  in  which  Capt.  Loring  swept 
and  won  this  inland  sea.  The  military  and  naval  operations  around  the  lake  will 
be  considered  in  connection  with  the  points  of  action. 

Lake  Champlain  is  a large  and  picturesque  sheet  of  water,  running 
nearly  N.  and  S.  for  126  M.,  with  a breadth  of  from  1 furlong  to  15 
M.  Its  waters  are  clear,  and  abound  in  bass,  pickerel,  salmon-trout,  and 
other  fish,  while  the  depth  varies  from  9 to  47  fathoms.  There  are  many 
islands  in  the  lake,  the  largest  of  which  covers  an  area  of  18,600  acres, 
and  has  a population  of  1,300.  Besides  numerous  pleasant  villages  and 
towns,  there  is  one  city  on  the  lake,  and  the  fleets  used  in  commerce  here 
number  many  thousands  of  tons.  There  is  a large  trade  done  between  the 
rivers,  the  Hudson  being  joined  to  the  lake  by  a canal  64  M.  long  (to 
Watervliet),  while  the  Richelieu  River  affords  an  outlet  to  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  scenery  of  the  Vermont  shore  is  that  of  a quiet  pastoral 
region,  with  the  Green  Mts.  rising  in  the  distant  E.  The  New  York  shore 
presents  a continual  succession  of  barren  and  mountainous  scenery,  with 
occasional  foot-hills  of  the  Adirondacks  pushed  out  in  promontories,  and 
the  parent  peaks  looming  blue  in  the  distance. 

There  are  four  elegant  steamers  plying  up  and  down  the  lake.  On  the  arrival 
of  the  3.15  p.  m.  and  of  the  6 a.  m.  trains  from  Montreal,  steamers  leave  Rouse’s 

1 Champlain  was  born  of  a good  family  of  the  province  of  Saintonge,  in  1570.  He  became 
a naval  officer,  and  afterward  was  attached  to  the  person  of  King  Henri  IV.  In  1603  he  ex- 
plored the  St  Lawrence  River  up  to  the  St.  Louis  Rapids,  and  afterward  (until  his  death  in 
1635)  he  explored  the  country  from  Nantucket  to  the  head -waters  of  the  Ottawa.  He  was  a 
brave,  merciful,  and  zealous  chief,  and  held  that  “ the  salvation  of  one  soul  is  of  more  im- 

?ortance  than  the  founding  of  a new  empire.”  He  established  strong  missions  among  the 
Iurons,  fought  the  Iroquois,  and  founded  Quebec. 

16 


362  Route  53. 


FORT  TICONDEROGA. 


Point  at  6p.  m.  and  at  8.15  a.  m.,  arriving  at  Whitehall  respectively  at  5.45  a.  m. 
and  4.45  f.  m.  Steamers  leave  Whitehall  for  the  north  at  8.20  p.  m.  and  10.45  a.  m., 
reaching  Rouse’s- Point  respectively  at  7 a.  m.  and  8.30  p.  m.  The  boats  leaving 
Whitehall  at  10.45  and  Rouse’s  Point  at  8.15,  connect  at  Ticonderoga  with  stages 
for  Lake  George  (4  M.),  where  passengers  take  the  steamer  to  Caldwell,  arriving 
there  at  7 p.  m.  (Time-tables  of  1872.)  State-rooms  are  desirable  on  the  night- 
boats,  while  a fine  dinner  ($1.00)  is  given  on  the  day-boats. 

From  Whitehall  to  Fort  Ticonderoga  (24  M.),  and  even  to  Crown  Point, 
the  lake  is  very  narrow,  and  seems  more  like  a fine  river.  During  the 
first  part  of  the  journey  the  hills  of  Dresden  are  seen  boldly  looming  on 
the  W.  and  Black  Mt.  is  seen  beyond,  while  the  “ Drowned  Lands  ” lie 
along  the  shore.  The  unimportant  landings  in  Benson  and  Orwell  (both 
in  Vermont)  are  stopped  at,  and  then  the  steamer  reaches 

Fort  Ticonderoga 

(Fort  Ticonderoga  Hotel,  $3.00  a day,  an  old  mansion  house  near  the 
lake  and  landing).  There  is  a railway-station  about  1 M.  N.  of  the  fort, 
pertaining  to  a branch  of  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad,  which  diverges 
from  the  main  line  at  Leicester  Junction.  The  new  route  from  New  York 
to  Montreal  ( W.  of  L.  Champlain)  most  of  which  is  now  in  working  order, 
passes  near  the  fort  on  the  W.  Steamers  going  each  way  stop  here  twice 
daily,  and  the  Lake  George  stages  leave  early  each  afternoon.  The  ruins 
of  the  fort  crown  the  high  hill  near  the  steamboat  pier,  and  are  quite 
picturesque,  and  command  extensive  lake-views.  The  sally-port  where 
the  Green  Mt.  Boys  entered,  the  old  well,  the  crumbling  walls  of  the 
barracks  surrounding  the  parade,  and  the  well-defined  dry  ditches  beyond 
the  ramparts  may  easily  be  recognized.  In  one  of  the  E.  bastions  is  a 
deep  and  cavernous  vault  which  it  is  surmised  was  the  garrison  bakery. 
On  the  high  point  S.  E.  of  the  fort  is  the  well-preserved  Grenadiers’  Bat- 
tery, erected  to  command  the  landing-place  and  to  defend  the  long  bridge 
to  Mt.  Independence.  There  is  another  small  battery  surrounded  by  a 
wet  ditch,  on  the  plain  to  the  N.,  while  the  forests  to  the  S.  and  W.  are 
furrowed  with  intrencliments  and  lines  of  parallels,  redoubts,  and  rifle- 
pits.  From  the  ramparts  of  the  fort  Mt.  Independence  is  seen  to  the  S. 
E.,  across  the  lake,  and  Mt.  Defiance  to  the  S.  W.,  across  the  widenings 
of  the  outlet  of  Lake  George.  The  latter  summit  is  800  ft.  above  the 
lake,  and  commands  a noble  view  over  its  placid  waters.  It  is  best 
ascended  by  following  the  nearly  obliterated  military  road  of  Burgoyne 
from  Ticonderoga  village  (3  M.  from  the  fort  to  the  summit).  Others, 
who  are  fond  of  the  fine  rowing  which  is  obtained  here,  cross  the  bay  in 
a boat,  and  scramble  up  through  the  forest  to  the  summit.  A road  runs 
W.  from  Ticonderoga  to  Paradox  and  Schroon  Lakes. 

Ticonderoga  is  a modification  of  Clieonderogo,  the  old  Iroquois  name  for  this 
locality.  It  meant  “ sounding  waters,”  and  applied  especially  to  the  falls  on  the 


FORT  TICONDEROGA. 


Route  53.  363 


outlet  of  Lake  George.  Capt.  Glen  is  spoken  of  as  holding  this  point  with  a 
picket  of  33  men,  in  1690,  and  in  1691  it  was  fortified  by  Col.  Schuyler,  who  was 
then  leading  a force  against  La  Prairie.  In  1755  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm  occu- 
pied the  place  with  a strong  French  army,  and  built  extensive  works,  which  he 
named  Fort  Carillon1  (“chime  of  bells”),  in  allusion  to  the  musical  cascades 
in  the  vicinity.  Gen.  Abercrombie,  having  descended  Lake  George  with  7,000 
British  regulars  and  9,000  provincial  troops,  attempted  to  storm  the  fort,  July  8, 
1758.  The  scouts  told  Abercrombie  that  the  fort  was  weak,  and  he  knew  that 
reinforcements  were  hurrying  to  the  garrison,  so  an  assault  was  ordered.  In  ad- 
vancing through  the  forest  a detachment  of  450  Frenchmen  boldly  engaged  and 
checked  the  van-guard.  Israel  Putnam  and  Lord  Howe  hastened  up  to  the  scene 
of  the  skirmish,  and  Howe  was  almost  instantly  killed.  “His  manners  and  his 
virtues  made  him  the  idol  of  the  army,”  and  “in  him  the  soul  of  the  army  seemed 
to  expire.”  Massachusetts  erected  a monument  to  this  gallant  nobleman  in 
"Westminster  Abbey.  The  French  detachment  was  exterminated,  but  the  Anglo- 
American  troops  became  entangled  in  the  forest  and  began  to  fire  on  each  other, 
until  they  were  withdrawn.  6,000  picked  men  were  led  out  to  storm  the  French 
works,  which  consisted  of  a breastwork  (8  ft.  high)  and  aboMs,  defended  by  4,000 
men  with  artillery.  Four  hours  of  fearless  charging  and  bloody  repulses  ensued, 
and  the  few  men  who  gained  the  parapet  died  there  on  the  verge  of  victory.  At  7 
in  the  evening,  after  three  heroic  assaults  had  failed,  and  several  boats  had  been 
sunk  on  the  lake  with  all  on  board  by  the  artillery  of  the  fort,  the  army  re- 
treated, leaving  nearly  2,000  men  dead  and  wounded  on  the  field.  Lord  John 
Murray’s  Highland  regiment  (so  distinguished  at  Fontenoy,  13  years  before)  lost  J 
of  its  men  and  25  officers.  In  March,  1758,  Rogers’  Rangers  were  disastrously 
repulsed  from  the  outworks  of  Carillon.  In  the  summer  of  1759  Lord  Amherst 
advanced  from  the  S.  with  11,000  men,  and  the  French  garrison,  weakened  by  the 
necessity  of  meeting  Wolfe  before  Quebec,  evacuated  the  place  after  burning  the 
barracks  and  exploding  the  magazine. 

At  dawn,  May  10,  1775,  the  fort  was  surprised  and  taken  by  85  New  England 
men,  who  had  crossed  the  lake  on  the  previous  evening.  They  were  commanded 
by  Ethan  Allen  and  Benedict  Arnold,  who  led  them  through  the  gate  and  out  on 
the  parade,  where  (it  is  said)  Allen  aroused  Capt.  de  la  Place,  the  commandant, 
and  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  fort  “in  the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah  and 
the  Continental  Congress.”  43  soldiers  were  surrendered  with  the  fort,  together 
with  176  cannon  and  vast  supplies  of  ammunition.  When  Burgoyne  advanced, 
in  the  summer  of  1777,  and  Arnold’s  fleet  had  been  defeated  on  the  lake,  the  de- 
fence of  Fort  Ticonderoga  was  intrusted  to  Gen.  St.  Clair,  with  2,600  Continental 
troops,  900  militia,  and  47  fortress-cannon.  He  destroyed  the  works  toward  Lake 
George,  and  strongly  fortified  Mt.  Independence  (remnants  of  the  star-fort,  and 
graves  of  hundreds  who  died  of  camp-distemper  are  now  found  in  the  young  forest 
on  the  mt.).  The  bridge  to  Mt.  Independence  was  a powerful  floating  structure, 
supported  by  22  sunken  piers  and  many  floats.  Burgoyne’s  fleet  was  cannonaded 
and  forced  to  keep  out  of  gun-shot,  but  the  British  succeeded  in  getting  cannon 
up  on  Mt  Defiance,  with  which  a plunging  fire  was  opened  on  the  fort.  On  the 
night  of  July  6,  St.  Clair  evacuated  the  position,  and  would  have  escaped  but  that 
Gen.  de  Fermoy  set  fire  to  his  quarters  on  Mt.  Independence.  The  aroused  enemy 
made  rapid  pursuit,  defeated  St.  Clair’s  rear-guard  at  Hubbardton,  and  took  his 
artillery  and  stores  at  Whitehall,  with  200  galleys  and  the  remnant  of  Arnold’s 
fleet.  Ten  weeks  later.  Col.  Brown,  of  Mass.,  with  1,000  men  of  New  England, 
captured  the  outworks  of  Ticonderoga,  with  200  batteaux,  293  prisoners,  5 cannon, 
and  a war- vessel,  and  delivered  100  American  prisoners  and  a Continental  flag. 
The  fort  was  dismantled  a few  weeks  later,  and  in  1780  was  re-occupied  by  Gen. 
Haldimand  with  troops  from  Montreal.  Since  the  Revolution,  Ticonderoga  has 
not  been  occupied,  and  for  many  years  it  suffered  a gradual  demolition,  — its  well- 
cut  stone  and  brick  being  carried  away  by  vessel-loads  to  the  rising  villages  on 
the  lake.  It  is  now  sealed  from  such  invasions,  and  is  becoming  known  as  one  of 
the  classic  and  heroic  grounds  of  America.  July  18,  1872,  the  Vermont  Historical 
Society  had  a field-day  here,  and  there  were  10,000  people  present.  The  fort  is  on 
a peninsula  rising  100  ft.  from  the  lake,  with  water  on  three  sides  and  swampy 
land  on  the  fourth.  The  peninsula  covers  over  500  acres. 

1 “ La  Drapeau  de  Carillon  ” is  an  old  Canadian  song,  which  may  still  be  heard  in  Lower 
Quebec. 


364  Route  53. 


CROWN  POINT. 


The  steamer  passes  through  the  railway-bridge  soon  after  leaving  Fort 
Ticonderoga.  . Beautiful  views  are  occasionally  gained  of  Camel’s  Hump 
and  Mt.  Mansfield  on  the  E.,  and  the  majestic  Adirondacks  on  the  N.  W. 
The  boat  stops  at  Larrabee’s  Point  in  the  Vermont  town  of  Slioreham, 
and  then  at  Crown  Point  (Gunnison’s  Hotel),  3 M.  E.  of  Crown  Point  vil- 
lage, whence  a road  runs  W.  to  Paradox  and  Schroon  Lakes  and  the  Adi- 
rondacks. A short  distance  beyond  this  landing,  the  steamer  passes 
through  the  narrows  between  Chimney  Point  (on  the  E. ) and 

Crown  Point. 

The  ruins  of  the  fortress  of  Crown  Point  occupy  the  high  promontory  be- 
tween the  lake  and  the  broad  Bulwagga  Bay.  The  point  is  reached  either 
by  boat  from  Port  Henry,  or  by  carriage  around  the  bottom  of  the  bay 
(6-7  M. ).  There  is  a lighthouse  on  the  point,  but  otherwise  it  is  aban- 
doned to  its  ancient  remains  of  strength  and  pride.  The  immense  ram- 
parts and  ditches  of  the  fort,  its  broad  parade,  and  the  thick  stone  walls 
of  the  barracks  are  richly  worthy  of  attention,  while  from  the  walls  of  the 
northern  bastions  are  obtained  superb  views  of  the  Green  Mts.  in  the  E. 
and  the  rugged  foot-hills  of  the  Adirondacks  in  the  W.,  with  the  lake 
stretching  away  for  many  leagues  in  the  N.  The  peninsula  is  about  1 M. 
wide,  and  has  only  a thin  robe  of  earth  over  limestone  ledges,  whose  cut- 
ting away  cost  enormously  during  the  erection  of  the  fortress.  200  yards 
N.  E.  of  the  great  fort,  and  near  the  water,  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  French 
work,  Fort  Frederick.  In  the  N.  E.  bastion  is  a well  cut  in  the  rock,  8 
ft.  in  diameter  and  90  ft.  in  depth,  which  was  cleared  out  by  a stock  com- 
pany in  1824,  in  the  hope  of  finding  treasure.  There  have  been  many  ex- 
cavations here  with  this  object,  but  only  old  iron  and  lead  has  yet  been 
found.  The  ramparts  are  brilliant  with  blood-red  thorn-apples  (in  their 
season)  on  great  thickets  of  bushes.  These  peculiar  trees  are  found  no- 
where else  in  the  State,  and  are  said  to  have  been  brought  from  France. 

In  July,  1609,  Champlain,  2 Frenchmen,  and  60  Hurons  came  up  to  this  Point 
in  24  bark  canoes,  and  here  they  landed  and  defeated  the  Iroquois,  after  passing 
the  night  in  martial  rites  and  singing  the  war-song.  This  was  2 months  before 
Hendrick  Hudson  had  discovered  the  noble  river  which  has  been  named  in  his 
honor.  In  1631  the  French  occupied  Point  a la  Clievelure  (opposite  this  place), 
built  a stone  fort  and  armed  it  with  5 cannon,  and  established  a farming  com- 
munity. In  1666  De  Courcelles  ascended  by  boats  (with  600  men)  to  Crown  Point, 
whence  he  marched  into  the  Mohawk  country,  and  on  the  retreat,  some  time  af- 
ter, the  force  halted  here  several  days  for  their  stragglers  to  come  up.  The  de- 
stroyers of  Schenectady  were  pursued  to  Crown  Point  (in  the  winter  of  1690),  but 
here  they  put  on  skates  and  escaped.  In  1731  Fort  Frederick  was  built  here  by 
the  French,  and  named  in  honor  of  Frederick  Maurepas,  Premier  of  the  kingdom. 
The  shores  were  then  more  thickly  settled  than  now,  for  many  miles  N.  and  S. 
In  1759,  after  the  fall  of  Ticonderoga, the  fort  was  abandoned,  and,  the  Point  being- 
occupied  by  Lord  Amherst,  vast  fortifications  were  erected  here,  which  cost  the 
British  government  810,000,000.  In  1773  the  barracks  took  fire  and  the  powder- 
magazine  blew  up,  partly  demolishing  the  works,  and  in  1775  Warner’s  Green  Alt. 
Boys  captured  the  fort.  7,000  Americans  retreated  here  from  Canada  in  1776,  and 


BURLINGTON. 


Route  53.  365 


hundreds  died  from  small-pox.  In  1777  Burgoyne  made  the  fort  his  main  depot 
of  supplies  in  the  advance  on  Albany.  The  fort  built  by  Lord  Amherst  was  £ M. 
around,  and  its  ramparts  were  25  ft.  high  and  25  ft.  thick.  It  is  still  in  good  preser- 
vation. 

Just  beyond  Crown  Point  the  steamer  stops  at  Port  Henry  (two  inns), 
a picturesquely  situated  village,  with  iron  works  and  mines.  Bulwagga 
Bay  is  seen  opening  to  the  S.  After  leaving  Port  Henry,  a fine  view  is 
obtained  of  the  Adirondacks  in  the  W.,  Bald  and  Dix  Peaks  and  the 
Giant  of  the  Valley  being  foremost  in  the  group.  The  steamer  next 
touches  at  Westport  (two  inns),  on  the  W.  shore,  with  a road  running  W. 
into  the  Adirondacks,  by  Elizabethtown  to  White  Face  Mt.  On  the  E. 
shore  are  seen  the  spires  of  the  city  of  Vergennes,  and  the  ruins  of  Fort 
Cassin,  where  Lieut.  Cassin,  of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  repelled  an  attack  on 
Macdonough’s  fleet,  which  was  being  fitted  out  at  Vergennes.  Split 
Rock  Mt.  frowns  along  the  W.  shore,  and  is  mirrored  in  waters  of  un- 
known depth.  Rounding  the  lighthouse  at  the  head  of  the  promontory, 
the  steamer  touches  at  Essex  (Royce’s  Hotel),  whence  another  road  leads 
into  the  Adirondacks.  The  course  from  Essex  is  N.  E.,  passing  the  Four 
Brothers  and  Juniper  Isles,  and  approaching  and  stopping  at 

Burlington 

(*  American  House;  Van  Ness  House),  “ the  Queen  City  of  Vermont,’* 
beautifully  situated  on  a long,  sloping  hill  on  the  E.  shore  of  Burlington 
Bay.  It  is  the  largest  city  in  the  State,  having  a population  of  about 
15,000,  with  15  churches,  2 banks,  1 daily  and  2 weekly  newspapers. 
In  1798  Burlington  had  815  inhabitants,  and  between  1860  and  1870  it 
gained  105  per  cent  in  population.  It  became  a city  in  1865,  and  is  now 
the  third  lumber-mart  in  America.  Most  of  the  lumber  is  brought  from 
the  Canadian  forests,  and  sorted  and  planed  here,  after  which  it  is  sent  by 
rail  to  Boston  and  other  Eastern  cities.  Immense  quantities  are  loaded 
directly  from  the  cars  to  the  vessels  (in  Boston)  which  convey  them  to 
distant  ports.  40  - 50,000,000  ft.  of  lumber  are  yearly  sent  out  from 
Burlington.  The  wharves  and  grounds  about  the  freight  station  are 
usually  covered  with  immense  piles  of  plank  and  boards.  Several  of  the 
churches  are  fine  buildings,  especially  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Mary,  a large 
and  picturesquely  irregular  structure.  St.  Paul’s  Episcopal  Church  is  an 
old  Gothic  building  of  blue  limestone,  with  stained  windows.  This  is  the 
church  of  the  Bishop,  whose  diocese  (the  State  of  Vt.)  has  27  priests  and 
2,655  communicants.  There  are  also  handsome  Congregational  and 
Methodist  churches,  built  of  Burlington  stone.  Near  the  square  in  the 
centre  of  the  city  is  a fine  U.  S.  building  (Post  Office  and  Custom  House), 
and  the  elegant  Court  House  of  Chittenden  County. 

The  University  of  Vermont  occupies  an  eligible  situation  on  the  sum- 
mit of  Burlington  Hill,  1 M.  from  the  Bay  and  367  ft.  above  it.  * This  in- 


366  Route  53. 


BURLINGTON. 


stitution  was  incorporated  in  1791,  and  began  operations  in  1800,  the 
President  being  the  only  instructor  for  the  first  6 years,  when  about  30 
students  were  entered  here.  Its  connection  with  the  State  is  but  nominal, 
and  has  brought  it  no  emolument  since  its  foundation,  when  Vermont 
endowed  it  with  a grant  of  29,000  acres  of  land.  In  1813  the  building 
was  taken  by  the  United  States,  and  retained  throughout  the  war  for  an 
arsenal  and  barracks.  In  1824  the  buildings  were  burnt,  and  rebuilt  in 
1825,  the  corner-stone  being  laid  by  Gen.  Lafayette.  The  three  buildings 
have  been  united  in  one,  and  surmounted  by  a bright,  tin-covered  dome. 
In  1871  the  University  had  16  instructors,  114  students,  and  15,000  vol- 
umes in  its  library.  There  are  about  900  alumni.  The  medical  depart- 
ment had,  in  1871,  5 instructors  and  25  students,  and  in  1865  the  State 
Agricultural  College  was  united  with  the  University.  There  are  50,000 
specimens  in  the  natural  history  cabinets.  From  the  dome  of  the  Uni- 
versity a superb  * view  is  enjoyed. 

On  the  W.,  Lake  Champlain  is  seen  from  below  Crown  Point  on  the  S.  to  Platts- 
burg  on  the  N.,  with  numerous  islands  surrounded  by  the  bright  waters  which 
have  become  classic  in  American  history.  Beyond  the  lake  the  Adirondacks  fill 
the  horizon,  over  60  peaks  being  visible  on  a clear  day ; prominent  among  which 
are  McIntyre,  Whiteface,  and  Marcy,  the  latter  being  the  highest  peak  between 
the  White  and  the  Alleghany  Mts.  Lake  Champlain  is  10  M.  wide  here,  and  near 
the  middle  are  seen  the  islets  called  the  Four  Brothers.  The  plains  of  Chittenden 
Co.  are  seen  in  the  N.  E.  over  the  little  village  of  Winooski,  and  in  the  E.  are  the 
stately  Green  Mts.,  the  Verts  Monts  for  which  the  State  was  named.  Mt.  Mans- 
field, Camel’s  Hump,  and  other  well-known, peaks  are  plainly  visible,  with  a vast 
expanse  of  farm-land  filling  the  foreground.  Burlington  City  is  overlooked  on 
the  W.,  stretching  down  to  the  shores  of  its  bay.  The  * sunset  over  the  lake  and 
the  Adirondacks  when  seen  from  this  point,  or  from  the  little  park  N.  W.  of  the 
central  square,  is  full  of  beauty.  “ Splendor  of  landscape  is  the  peculiar  boast  of 
Burlington,”  said  Pres.  Dwight  in  1798  ; and  Fredrika  Bremer  speaks  of  the  dis- 
tant “mountain  forms  picturesquely  combined  with  a certain  degree  of  grandeur 
and  boldness.”  The  view  looking  W.  towards  a peak  which  she  calls  “ le  lion 
couchant”  she  pronounced  superior  to  any  lake  view  which  she  had  ever  seen,  ex- 
cepting only  one  on  Lake  Geneva. 

Near  the  University  is  the  Green  Mt.  Cemetery,  in  which  Ethan  Allen 
is  buried,  under  a Tuscan  column  42  ft.  high,  and  a short  distance  be- 
yond is  the  village  of  Winooski,  at  the  lower  falls  on  the  Winooski  River. 
Near  this  village  is  a romantic  canon  on  the  river,  at  the  High  Bridge , 
where  the  impetuous  stream  has  cut  a gorge  through  the  solid  rock  90  ft. 
deep  and  70  ft.  wide. 

Burling!, on  is  an  academic  city,  having  besides  the  University  several 
fine  schools,  among  which  is  the  Female  Seminary  (established  1835), 
which  has  nearly  900  alumnae.  The  Seminary  has  handsome  buildings  on 
a hillside  near  the  lake.  The  Vermont  Episcopal  Institute  is  on  Rock 
Point,  2 - 3 M.  from  the  city,  and  near  the  lake.  It  has  a fine  marble 
building  in  the  collegiate  Gothic  architecture,  with  a small  but  elegant 
chapel,  a massive  tower,  and  a library  which  is  rich  in  patristic  literature. 
The  theological  department  has  5 professors  and  56  students,  with  231 


PLATTSBURG. 


Route  53.  367 


alumni,  and  is  called  the  most  expensive  divinity-school  in  the  Union. 
About  2 M.  S.  of  the  city  is  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  fronting  on  the 
lake. 

Burlington  was  settled  about  1775,  and  named  in  honor  of  the  Burling  family 
(of  New  York),  who  were  among  the  grantees.  It  lay  on  the  route  by  the  Winoo- 
ski Valley,  which  had  been  so  often  traversed  by  the  northern  Indians  in  their 
attacks  on  Mass.  It  was  fortified  and  garrisoned  by  4,000  troops  in  the  War  of 
1812,  and  in  the  War  of  1861-5  sent  many  soldiers  to  the  national  armies. 

Stages  leave  Burlington  daily  for  the  rural  towns  of  St.  George  and  Hinesburg. 

Two  trains  daily  leave  Burlington  for  Montreal.  From  Burlington  to  Essex 
Junction  it  is  8 M.  Essex  to  Montreal,  see  page  204.  Distance,  103  M.,  in  5^-6 
hours. 

Leaving  Burlington,  the  steamer  runs  N.  W.  across  the  lake  to  Port 
Kent  (2  hotels),  a small  village  under  Mt.  Trembleau,  and  important  for 
its  exportation  of  iron.  The  old  Watson  Mansion  is  seen  on  a hill  over 
the  village.  Stages  run  from  Port  Kent  to  the  Ausable  Chasm,  with  its 
grand  succession  of  cascades  and  gorges.  The  Adirondack  and  Ausable 
Houses  are  at  Keeseville,  near  the  Chasm.  Stages  also  run  to  Baker’s 
Saranac  Lake  House  (46  M.  W.),  while  a road  diverging  to  the  S.  W.  at 
the  Ausable  Forks  enters  the  mts.  through  Wilmington  Notch  and  by 
White  Face  and  Lake  Placid.  6 - 8 M.  N.  of  Port  Kent  the  steamer 
passes  between  Valcour  Island  and  the  mainland.  In  this  channel  Ar- 
nold’s fleet,  consisting  of  15  vessels  with  70  cannon,  was  attacked  by  a 
British  squadron  of  31  vessels.  After  a hot  day’s  battle,  in  which  2 of 
Arnold’s  and  3 British  vessels  were  sunk,  the  Americans  tried  to  retreat 
by  night,  but  were  closely  pursued.  The  flagship  “ Congress  ” was  sur- 
rounded by  hostile  ships,  but  fought  desperately  for  4 hours,  until  the 
van  and  centre  of  the  fleet  had  escaped.  Then  Arnold  ran  her  and  the 
attendant  galleys  ashore  below  Port  Kent,  and  blew  them  up  (Oct.  11, 
1776).  Grand  Isle,  or  South  Hero,  is  now  passed  on  the  E.,  and  the  vil- 
lage of  Plattsburg  ( Fouquefs  Hotel ; Cumberland  House)  is  reached.  It 
is  a flourishing  place  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  River,  and  is  the  shire- 
town  of  Clinton  County  (N.  Y. ),  and  a garrisoned  post  of  the  U.  S.  Army. 
There  is  a railway  from  Plattsburg  to  Montreal  (63J  M.  ; trains  in  4J  - 5 
hrs.) ; also  to  the  Ausable  River  (20  M.  ; trains  in  1J  - 2 hrs.).  The  lat- 
ter road,  with  the  stages  which  connect  at  the  Ausable  River,  forms  the 
best  route  to  the  Saranac  and  St.  Regis  Lakes,  and  the  lofty  central  group 
of  the  Adirondack  Mts.  The  Long,  Raquette,  Fulton,  and  Tupper  Lakes 
are  most  easily  reached  by  the  Adirondack  Railroad  (from  Saratoga). 

Sept.  7,  1814,  Plattsburg  was  menaced  by  a British  army  of  14,000  men  under 
Sir  George  Prevost,  supported  by  a fleet  of  16  vessels,  with  95  guns  and  1,000  men. 
The  defence  was  conducted  by  Gen.  Macomb,  with  3,000  men  in  the  village,  and 
Commodore  Macdonough,  with  a fleet  of  14  vessels,  86  guns,  and  880  men.  When 
the  British  fleet  rounded  Cumberland  Head  for  the  attack,  Macdonough  was  kneel- 
ing on  his  deck  praying.  A rooster,  who  had  got  loose  in  the  hurry  of  prepara- 
tion, flew  upon  one  of  the  “ Saratoga’s  ” guns  and  crowed  lustily,  upon  which  the 
men  gave  three  cheers  and  went  to  work  with  a will.  As  the  fleets  met,  the  two 
flagships  engaged  each  other,  and  the  American  “ Saratoga  ” was  sadly  cut  up  by 


368  Route  54. 


MONTREAL. 


the  more  powerful  British  vessel,  the  “Confiance.”  By  a skilful  manoeuvre  Mac- 
donough  swung  his  ship  around,  and  presented  the  uninjured  side  and  battery  to 
the  enemy,  who  was  unable  to  imitate  this  action,  and  was  speedily  forced  to 
yield.  After  2£  hours  of  incessant  cannonade,  the  battle  was  decided  against  the 
British,  who  lost  all  their  vessels  save  a few  row-galleys.  In  the  mean  time,  Pre- 
vost  was  repulsed  by  the  soldiers  at  Plattsburg,  and  lost  heavily,  besides  being 
forced  to  abandon  much  of  his  artillery  and  stores. 

The  steamer  passes  down  the  bay  and  rounds  Cumberland  Head,  with 
Grand  Isle  on  the  E.  The  shores  now  become  more  level,  and  the  mts. 
are  only  seen  in  retrospective  views.  The  islands  of  North  Hero  and  Isle 
La  Motte,  and  the  peninsula  of  Alburgh  are  passed  on  the  E.,  and  (25  M. 
N.  of  Plattsburg)  the  steamer  stops  at  Rouse’s  Point  (see  page  207).  Two 
trains  daily  run  from  this  place  to  Montreal  (50  M. ) in  2J  hrs.',  following 
the  Richelieu  River  to  St.  J ohns  (see  page  208),  and  thence  crossing  the 
parishes  of  La  Prairie  and  Longueil  to  Montreal. 


54.  Montreal. 

Hotels.  — St.  Lawrence  Hall,  on  Great  St.  James  St.  ; Ottawa  House,  Great 
Saint  James  St.  ; Donnegana  House,  Notre  Dame  St.  ; Albion  Hotel,  $1.50  a day, 
McGill  St. 

Carriages.  One-horse  carriage,  for  1 - 2 persons,  25c.  a course  (within  the 
city),  50c.  an  hour  ; for  3-4  persons,  40c.  a course,  70c.  an  hour.  Two-horse  car- 
riages, for  1 - 2 persons,  40c.  a course,  75c.  an  hour  ; for  3 - 4 persons,  50c.  a course, 
$1.00  an  hour. 

Shops.  The  most  attractive  are  on  Great  Saint  James  and  Notre  Dame  Sts. 
American  money  is  usually  received  at  the  reigning  rates  of  exchange,  but  it  is  ad- 
visable to  purchase  sufficient  Canadian  money  for  the  tour  at  some  reputable 
bank. 

Horse- cars  run  across  the  city  on  Craig,  Bleury,  and  St.  Catharine  Sts.  ; also 
on  St.  Mary,  Notre  Dame,  and  St.  Joseph  Sts.  ; also  out  St.  Lawrence  Main  St. 

H nil  ways.  To  Boston,  by  St.  Albans,  Concord,  and  Lowell  (Route  29),  334 
M.  (or  by  way  of  Fitchburg,  344  M.) ; to  New  York,  by  Rutland  and  Albany,  365 
M.  (by  Lake  Champlain,  405  M.)  ; to  Quebec,  172  M.  (in  7 hrs.) ; to  Plattsburg, 
63  M.  ; to  Rouse’s  Point,  50  M.  ; to  Toronto,  333  M.  (14-15  hrs.) ; to  Detroit  (861 
M.)  and  Chicago  (1,145  M.) ; to  Ottawa,  164  M.  Steamers  run  to  all  the  St.  Law- 
rence and  Lake  ports. 


In  the  year  1535  Jacques  Cartier  visited  the  triple-walled  Indian  village  of  Hoche- 
laga,  and  ascended  the  lofty  hill  behind  it,  which,  from  the  beauty  of  its  view,  he 
named  Mount  Royal.  The  place  was  visited  by  Champlain  in  1603,  and  was  settled 
by  a small  colony  of  Frenchmen.  A tax-gatherer  of  Anjou  and  a priest  of  Paris 
heard  celestial  voices,  bidding  them  to  found  a hospital  (Hotel  Dieu)  and  a college 
of  priests  at  Mount  Royal,  and  the  voices  were  followed  by  apparitions  of  the  Vir- 
gin and  the  Saviour.  Filled  with  sacred  zeal,  and  brought  together  by  a singular 
accident,  these  men  won  several  nobles  of  France  to  aicl  their  cause,  then  bought 
the  Isle  of  Mount  Royal,  and  formed  the  Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Montreal. 
With  the  Lord  of  Maisonneuve  and  45  associates,  in  a solemn  service  held  in  the 
Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  de  Paris,  they  consecrated  the  island  to  the  Holy  Family 
under  the  name  of  “Ville  Marie  de  Montreal”  (Feb.,  1641).  May  18,  1642,  Mai- 
sonneuve and  his  people  landed  at  Montreal  and  raised  an  altar,  before  which, 
when  high  mass  was  concluded,  the  priest  said,  “You  are  a grain  of  mustard- 
seed  that  shall  arise  and  grow  until  its  branches  overshadow  the  land.  You  are 
few,  but  your  work  is  the  work  of  God.  His  smile  is  on  you,  and  your  children 
shall  fill  the  land.”  The  Hotel  Dieu  was  founded  in  1647,  and  in  1657  the  Sulpi- 
cians  of  Paris  established  a seminary  here.  In  1689, 1,400  Iroquois  Indians  stormed 


h bishop’s  Palace.  ( . 4 
nek  Nunnery.  E..». 

ay  „ A.  3. 

ninary  of  St.  Sulpice.  E.  i>. 

Priests.  A.  2. 
Merry's  College. 

. cat 

/I son’s  „ 

rteruL  Hospital . 
tel  Dieir . 
filing  Rink, 
lor  i cl  Square, 
ace  D'Armes. 

^ jer  Square.  . 

~ cunji  de  Mars. 

Hotels. 

Lawrence  Hall . 
James. 

ta  vva 

biorv. 

JR  .Station,.  . 


MONTREAL. 


P^oute  54.  3G9 


* 


the  western  suburbs,  and  killed  200  of  tlie  inhabitants,  and  a short  time  after  Col. 
Schuyler  destroyed  Montreal  with  troops  from  New  York,  leaving  only  the  cita- 
del, which  his  utmost  efforts  could  not  reduce.  In  1760  Lord  Amherst  and  17,000 
men  captured  the  city,  which  then  had  4,000  inhabitants,  and  was  surrounded  by 
a wall  with  11  redoubts  and  a citadel.  In  1775  Ethan  Allen  attacked  Montreal 
with  a handful  of  Vermonters,  and  was  defeated  and  captured,  with  100  of  his 
men.  Gen.  Prescott  sent  them  to  England  as  “banditti,”  and  Allen  was  impris- 
oned in  Pendennis  Castle.  In  the  fall  of  1775  the  city  was  taken  by  the  American 
army  under  Gen.  Montgomery.  With  the  close  of  the  War  of  1815,  a brisk  com- 
merce set  in,  and  the  city  grew  rapidly,  having,  in  1821,  18,767  inhabitants.  The 
completion  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  greatly  benelited  this  place,  and  its  in- 
crease has  for  many  years  been  steady,  substantial,  and  rapid. 

Montreal  (125,000  inhabitants),  the  metropolis  of  the  Dominion  of 
Canada,  and  “ the  Queen  of  the  St.  Lawrence,”  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful cities  on  the  continent.  It  is  situated  on  an  island  (at  the  confluence 
of  the  Ottawa  and  St.  Lawrence  Rivers)  containing  197  square  miles,  and 
which,  from  its  fertility,  has  been  called  the  garden  of  Canada.  The  St. 
Lawrence  is  1J  M.  wide  opposite  the  city,  and  the  whole  river-front  is 
lined  with  lofty  and  massive  walls,  quays,  and  terraces  of  gray  limestone, 
unequalled  elsewhere  in  the  world,  except  at  Liverpool,  Paris,  and  St. 
Petersburg.  The  commercial  buildings  in  the  city  are  generally  of  stone 
in  plain  and  substantial  architecture,  while  the  number  of  fine  public 
buildings  is  very  large,  f of  the  population  are  Catholics,  most  of  whom 
are  French,  while  the  bright  suburban  villages  are  almost  entirely  in- 
habited by  Frenchmen.  Although  Montreal  is  800  M.  from  the  sea,  it  is 
the  port  which  receives  the  greater  part  of  the  importations  to  Canada, 
while  its  manufacturing  interests  are  of  great  extent  and  importance. 

The  Victoria  Square  is  a public  ground  at  the  intersection  of  McGill 
and  St.  James  Sts.,  in  which  a statue  of  the  Queen  is  to  be  placed.  The 
Cathedral  Buildings,  St.  James  Hotel,  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building,  and  St. 
Patrick's  Hall  front  on  this  square.  The  latter  is  an  elegant  and  very 
extensive  building  belonging  to  the  Irish  population.  Going  eastward  on 
Great  St.  James  St.,  some  fine  banks,  insurance  and  commercial  buildings- 
are  passed,  and  opposite  the  beautiful  Corinthian  colonnade  of  the  Bank 
of  Montreal  (beyond  St.  Francois  Xavier  St.,  the  Wall  St.  of  Montreal) 
the  Place  d' Armes  is  seen.  Here  is  the  lofty  front  of  the  Church  of 
Notre  Dame,  the  largest  church  on  the  continent,  with  seats  for  8,000 
persons  on  the  floor,  and  2,000  in  the  galleries.  It  is  255 J ft.  long  and 
144J  ft.  wide,  and  lias  a chancel  window  of  stained  glass,  64  x 32  ft.  in 
size.  The  interior  is  not  striking,  and  the  pictures  are  poor.  There  are 
two  towers  on  the  front,  each  220  ft.  high,  and,  like  the  church,  in  the 
simplest  form  of  mediaeval  Gothic  architecture.  One  tower  has  a chime 
of  bells,  and  in  the  other  hangs  te  Gros  Bourdon,”  the  largest  bell  in 
America,  weighing  nearly  15  tons.  The  tower  is  generally  open  (small 
fee  to  the  door-keeper),  and  affords  from  its  summit  a noble  * view  of  the 
city  and  its  environs  (especially  of  the  river,  the  bridge,  and  islands). 

16  * x 


370  Route  54. 


MONTREAL. 


Alongside  the  church  is  the  ancient  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  on  the  site 
of  the  Seminary  of  1657,  as  the  church  is  near  the  site  of  the  Notre 
Dame  of  1671.  The  present  church  was  built  1824-9,  and  was  conse- 
crated by  the  Bishop  of  Telmesse  in  partibus.  Fronting  on  the  Place 
d’Armes  is  the  elegant  Ontario  Bank  and  the  hall  of  the  Grand  Lodge 
of  Masons  of  Canada.  A short  distance  to  the  E.,  on  Notre  Dame 
St.,  an  archway  on  the  r.  admits  one  to  the  extensive  and  secluded  Con- 
vent of  the  Black  Nuns.  Farther  on,  the  Court  House  is  seen  on  the  1., — 
a stately  stone  building  in  the  Ionic  architecture  (300x125  ft.),  back  of 
which  is  the  Champ  de  Mars , or  Parade  Ground,  an  open  space  covering 
50,000  square  yards,  and  fronted  by  the  great  building  of  the  Dominion 
Military  School.  Just  beyond  the  Court  House,  the  Jacques  Cartier 
Square  opens  off  Notre  Dame  St.,  and  is  encumbered  with  a dilapidated 
monument  to  Nelson.  The  Jacques  Cartier  Normal  School  (in  the  ancient 
French  Government  building)  and  the  Institut  Canadien  (with  a fine 
library)  front  on  the  Government  Garden,  at  the  head  of  this  square.  By 
the  next  side-street  (St.  Claude)  to  the  r.,  the  Bonsecours  Market  may 
be  visited.  This  market  is  unrivalled  in  America,  and  is  built  of  stone, 
at  a cost  of  $300,000.  It  is  3 stories  high,  has  a dome,  and  presents  an 
imposing  front  to  the  river.  The  curious  French  costumes  and  language 
of  the  country  people  who  congregate  here  on  market-days,  as  well  as  some 
peculiarities  of  the  wares  offered  for  sale,  render  a visit  very  interesting. 
Alongside  of  the  market  is  the  Bonsecours  Church  (accommodating  2,000) 
which  was  built  in  1658.  A short  distance  beyond  is  the  extensive 
Quebec  Gate  Barrack,  on  Dalhousie  Square,  while  the  Victoria  Pier  makes 
out  into  the  stream  towards  St.  Helen's  Isle  (a  fortified  depot  of  ammu- 
nition and  war  materiel).  To  the  N.,  on  Craig  St.,  is  the  attractive  Viger 
Garden,  with  a small  conservatory  and  several  fountains,  fronting  on 
which  is  Trinity  Church  (Episcopal),  built  of  Montreal  stone  in  Early 
English  Gothic  architecture,  and  accommodating  4,000  persons.  N.  of 
Trinity,  and  also  on  St.  Denis  St.,  is  St.  James  Church  (Catholic),  in  the 
pointed  Gothic  style,  with  rich  stained  glass.  Some  distance  E.  of  Dal- 
housie Square,  on  St.  Mary  St.,  is  Molson’s  College  (abandoned)  and  St. 
Thomas  Church  (Episcopal),  with  the  great  buildings  of  Molson’s  brewery 
and  the  Papineau  Market  and  Square. 

McGill  St.  is  an  important  thoroughfare  leading  S.  from  Victoria  Square 
to  the  river.  Considerable  wholesale  trade  is  done  here  and  in  the  inter- 
secting St.  Paul  St.  The  Dominion  and  Albert  buildings  are  rich  and 
massive,  while  just  beyond  is  the  extensive  St.  Ann’s  Market,  on  the  site 
of  the  old  Parliament  House.  In  1849  the  Earl  of  Elgin  signed  the  un- 
popular Rebellion  Bill,  upon  which  he  was  attacked  by  a mob,  who  also 
drove  the  Assembly  from  the  Parliament  House,  and  burnt  that  building. 
Commissioners’  St.  leads  E.  by  St.  Ann’s  Market  and  the  elegant  Custom 


MONTREAL. 


Route  54.  371 


House  to  the  broad  promenades  on  the  river- walls.  Ottawa  St.  leads  to 
the  W.  to  the  great  masonry  of  the  Lachine  Canal  Basins  and  the  vicinity 
of  the  Victoria  Bridge. 

Radegonde  St.  and  Beaver  Hall  Hill  lead  N.  from  Victoria  Square, 
passing  Zion  Church,  where  the  Gavazzi  riots  took  place  in  1853.  The 
armed  congregation  repulsed  the  assailants  twice,  and  then  the  troops 
restored  peace,  40  men  being  killed  or  seriously  wounded.  Just  above  is 
the  Baptist  Church,  overlooked  by  the  tall  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Uni- 
tarian), with  St.  Andrew’s  Presbyterian  Church  on  the  r.  A few  steps  to 
the  r.,  Lagauchetiere  St.  leads  to  St.  Patrick's  Church,  a stately  Gothic 
building,  240  ft.  long  by  90  ft.  wide,  accommodating  5,000  persons,  and 
adorned  with  a spire  225  ft.  high.  The  nave  is  very  lofty,  and  the  narrow 
lancet  windows  are  filled  with  stained  glass.  A short  distance  farther, 
on  Bleury  St.,  are  the  massive  stone  buildings  of  St.  Mary’s  College 
(Jesuit),  near  the  front  of  the  Church  of  the  Gesti.  The  nave  of  this 
church  (75  ft.  high)  is  bounded  by  rich  composite  columns,  and  the  tran- 
septs are  144  ft.  long,  while  the  walls  are  covered  with  fine  frescos. 

Over  the  High  Altar  is  the  Crucifixion,  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Spotless 
Lamb,  above  which  is  the  Nativity.  Against  the  columns  at  the  crossing  of  the 
nave  and  transepts  are  statues  of  St.  Mark  with  a lion,  St.  Matthew  with  an  ox, 
St.  Luke  with  a child,  and  St.  John  with  an  eagle.  On  the  ceiling  of  the  nave 
are  frescos  of  St.  Thomas  Repentant,  the  Bleeding  Lamb,  and  the  Virgin  and 
Child  amid  angelic  choirs.  Medallions  along  the  nave  contain  portraits  of  8 saints 
of  the  Order  of  Jesus.  Over  the  Altar  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  1.  transept,  is  a fresco 
of  the  Trinity,  near  which  is  a painting  of  St.  Aloysius  Gonzaga  receiving  his  first 
communion  from  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  Cardinal  Archbishop  of  Milan.  To  the  r. 
is  a fresco  of  St.  Ignatius  Loyola  in  the  grotto  of  Manresa,  and  on  the  1.  is  Christ’s 
Appearance  to  him  near  Rome,  while  above  is  Christ  Blessing  Little  Children. 
Over  St.  J oseph’s  Altar,  in  the  r.  transept,  is  a painting  of  the  Eternal  Father,  on 
the  r.  of  which  is  another  picture,  St.  Stanislaus  Kostka  Receiving  Communion 
from  Angels.  On  the  1.  is  a fresco  of  the  Martyrdom  of  the  Jesuits  at  Nagasaki 
(Japan) ; on  the  r.  is  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew  Bobola,  in  Poland  ; and  above 
is  the  Raising  of  Lazarus.  On  the  ceiling  is  the  Holy  Family  at  Work. 

Turning  now  to  the  W.  on  St.  Catharine  St.,  one  soon  reaches  Christ 
Church  Cathedral,  the  best  representative  of  English  Gothic  archi- 
tecture in  America.  It  is  built  of  Caen  and  Montreal  stone,  is  cruciform, 
and  a stone  spire  224  ft.  high  springs  from  the  centre  of  the  cross.  The 
choir  has  a fine  window  and  some  carved  stalls,  and  is  laid  with  encaustic 
tiles,  while  the  pointed  roof  of  the  nave  (67  ft.  high)  is  sustained  by 
columns  whose  capitals  are  carved  to  represent  Canadian  plants.  Near  the 
Cathedral  is  a quaint  octagonal  chapter-house,  used  also  for  the  diocesan 
library,  and  the  house  of  the  Lord  Bishop  (and  Metropolitan  of  Canada) 
is  in  the  same  vicinity.  A short  distance  N.  is  McGill  College,  or  Uni- 
versity, which  was  endowed  in  1814  and  opened  in  1828.  It  is  below  the 
reservoir  on  Mount  Royal,  from  which  a charming  view  of  the  city  and 
river  may  be  gained.  Some  distance  W.  of  the  college,  and  fronting  on 
the  same  street  (Sherbrooke),  is  the  vast  and  imposing  Seminary  of  St. 
Sulpice,  for  the  education  of  Roman  Catholic  priests.  On  St.  Catharine, 


372  Route  54. 


THE  LACHINE  RAPIDS. 


near  St.  George  St.,  is  the  Asylum  for  the  Blind,  with  a chapel  richly  and 
elegantly  decorated  and  frescoed,  and  built  in  a light  and  delicate  form  of 
Romanesque  architecture.  W.  of  the  Cathedral  is  the  Erskine  Church 
(Presbyterian),  and  also  the  Church  of  St.  James  the  Apostle,  a graceful 
Gothic  building  with  an  admirable  tower  and  spire.  Near  the  cemetery 
on  Dorchester  St.  are  the  following  churches,  — the  Wesleyan  Methodist, 
a graceful  building  in  the  English  Gothic  style  ; the  American  Presby- 
terian, an  exact  copy  of  the  Park  Church  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  ; and  the 
Church  of  St.  George  (Episcopal),  an  elegant  edifice  in  decorated  Gothic 
architecture,  with  deep  transepts,  costly  stained  windows,  a timber  roof, 
and  fine  school-buildings  attached.  On  the  E.  side  of  this  square  is  the 
Bishop's  Palace,  near  which  are  the  slowly  rising  walls  of  the  immense 
new  Catholic  Cathedral,  which  is  to  be  built  on  the  model  of  St.  Peter’s 
at  Rome,  though  smaller.  Farther  to  the  W.  on  Dorchester  St.,  on  the 
r.,  is  seen  the  vast,  cruciform  building  of  the  Gray  Nunnery  (founded 
1692),  with  a Foundling  Hospital  and  a Refuge  for  the  infirm.  Mont  Ste. 
Marie  is  the  large  building  opposite  (across  Dorchester  St.),  which  was 
erected  for  a Baptist  College,  but  has  become  a ladies’ boarding-school 
under  the  Congregational  Nuns  (of  the  Black  Nunnery,  who  have,  in  the 
city,  57  schools  and  12,000  pupils.  The  order  was  founded  by  Marguerite 
Bourgeoys  in  1659).  Farther  E.  on  Dorchester  St.  are  the  fine  buildings 
of  St.  Paul’s  and  the  Knox  Presbyterian  Churches.  There  are  many 
other  fine  churches  and  public  buildings  in  the  city,  and  the  streets  toward 
Mount  Royal  are  lined  with  attractive  villas. 

There  are  pleasant  excursions  from  Montreal  to  Monklands  and  the 
Isle  Jesus;  to  Hochelaga,  the  vast  Convent  of  the  Holy  Name  of  Mary, 
and  Longue  Pointe;  to  the  Tanneries,  Cote  St.  Paul,  and  Lachine,  by 
carriage ; but  the  two  favorite  trips  are  to  the  mountain  and  to  the  rapids. 
“ Around  the  Mountain ,”  it  is  9 M.,  by  going  out  St.  Lawrence  Main  St., 
by  the  immense  Hotel  Dieu,  and  up  the  long  slopes  to  the  pretty  village 
of  Cote  des  Neiges.  Ascending  the  mountain  thence,  a glorious  view  is 
soon  revealed,  embracing  the  city,  a great  expanse  of  the  river,  with  the 
bridge,  St.  Helen’s  Isle,  and  Longueuil,  and  the  blue  peaks  of  Vermont 
far  away  in  the  S.  On  the  slope  of  Mount  Royal  is  the  Cemetery,  which 
is  entered  by  stately  portals,  and  shows  some  very  creditable  monuments, 
— especially  those  of  the  Molson  family. 

The  Lacliine  Rapids  are  visited  by  taking  the  7 a.  m.  train  (at  the  Bonaven- 
ture  Station,)  to  Lachine,  where  a steamer  is  in  waiting,  by  which  the  tourist 
returns  through  the  rapids  to  Montreal  (arriving  about  9 a.  m.).  After  taking  a 
pilot  from  the  Indian  village  of  Cauglinawaga,  the  steamer  passes  out. 

“ Suddenly  a scene  of  wild  grandeur  bursts  upon  the  eye ; waves  are  lashed 
into  spray  and  into  breakers  of  a thousand  forms  by  the  submerged  rocks  which 
thev  are  dashed  against  in  the  headlong  impetuosity  of  the  river.  Whirlpools,  a 
storm-lashed  sea,  the  chasm  below  Niagara,  all  mingle  their  sublimity  in  a single 
rapid.  Now  passing  with  lightning  speed  within  a few  yards  of  rocks,  which, 
did  your  vessel  but  touch  them,  would  reduce  her  to  an  utter  wreck  before  the 


MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 


Route  55.  373 


crash  could  sound  upon  the  ear  ; did  she  even  diverge  in  the  least  from  her  course, 
— if  her  head  were  not  kept  straight  with  the  course  of  the  rapid,  she  would  be 
instantly  submerged  and  rolled  over  and  over.  Before  us  is  an  absolute  preci- 
pice of  waters  ; on  every  side  of  it  breakers,  like  dense  avalanches,  are  thrown 
high  into  the  air.  Ere  we  can  take  a glance  at  the  scene,  the  boat  descends  the 
wall  of  waves  and  foam  like  a bird,  and  in  a second  afterwards  you  are  floating  on 
the  calm,  unruffled  bosom  of  ‘ below  the  rapids.’  ” 

The  steamer,  just  before  reaching  the  city,  passes  under  the  * Victoria 
Bridge,  the  longest  and  costliest  bridge  in  the  world.  It  consists  of  23  spans  of 
242  ft.  each  (the  centre  one  being  330  ft.  long)  resting  on  24  jners  built  of  heavy 
blue  limestone  masonry,  cemented  and  iron-riveted,  with  sharp  wedge-faces  to 
the  down  current.  The  tubes  containing  the  track  are  19  ft.  high  by  10  ft.  wide, 
and  the  bridge  is  approached  by  abutments  2,600  ft.  long  and  90  ft.  wide,  which, 
with  the  6,594  ft.  of  iron  tubing,  makes  a total  length  of  9,194  ft.  from  grade  to 
grade,  and  over  1£  M.  from  shore  to  shore.  The  bridge  was  begun  in  1854,  and 
finished  in  1859  ; it  used  up  250,000  tons  of  stone  and  8,000  tons  of  iron,  and  cost 
$6,300,000.  The  view  of  Montreal  from  the  bridge  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
imaginable. 


55.  Montreal  to  Quebec.— The  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  large  and  elegant  royal  mail  steamers  of  the  Richelieu  Company  leave  the 
Richelieu  Pier  (foot  of  Jacques  Cartier  Square)  at  7 p.  m.  daily,  and  arrive  at  Que- 
bec early  the  next  morning.  During  the  summer  of  1872  a steamer  of  the  same 
line  ran  twice  or  thrice  weekly  between  the  two  cities,  leaving  at  early  morning. 
It  was  thought  that  this  day-line  would  be  continued,  and  if  it  is,  it  should  be 
preferred  to  the  evening  boats,  as  enabling  the  tourist  to  see  the  river  and  its  vil- 
lages. Fares  to  Quebec,  first  class  (with  meaLs  and  state-room),  $3.00  ; second 
class,  $1.00.  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  runs  trains  to  Quebec  in  8-9  hrs.,  by 
way  of  St.  Hyacinthe,  Richmond,  and  Arthabaska. 

As  the  steamer  passes  out  into  the  stream,  the  fortified  island  of  St. 
Helen  is  seen  in  front,  and  fine  views  of  the  Victoria  Bridge,  Mount  Royal, 
and  the  city  are  gained.  Just  below  St.  Helen’s  Isle,  on  the  r.  bank,  is 
Longueuil,  where  there  are  many  villas  pertaining  to  wealthy  city  people. 
A short  distance  below,  on  the  1.  bank,  is  Longue  Pointe,  with  the  Con- 
vent des  Soeurs  de  la  Providence,  and  at  9 M.  from  Montreal  Pointe  aux 
Trembles  is  passed,  with  its  ancient  village,  which  dates  from  1674.  The 
steamer  then  enters  the  channels  between  the  low,  marshy  islands  of  Bou- 
cherville,  famous  for  duck-shooting,  and  for  the  ice-dams  which  form  here 
at  the  close  of  winter.  Passing  Varennes  on  the  r.,  with  the  bold  Beloeil 
Mt.  in  the  S.,  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere  des  Prairies  is  seen  on  the  1.,  with 
the  village  of  UAssomjotion  beyond.  There  are  valuable  mineral  springs 
near  Varennes,  from  which  a steamer  runs  to  Montreal  four  times  a week. 
The  river  now  passes  between  the  parishes  of  Cap  Michael,  Verclieres, 
Contrecour,  and  St.  Ours,  on  the  r.  bank,  and  St.  Sulpice,  La  Valtrie,  La 
Noray e,  and  Dautraye  on  the  1.  bank.  The  spires  of  Bertliier  are  seen 
on  the  1.,  as  another  cluster  of  islands  is  threaded,  and  the  town  of  Sorel 
is  reached.  This  place  occupies  an  important  position  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Richelieu  and  St.  Lawrence  Rivers,  and  was  fortified  in  1665  by 
Gov.  De  Tracey.  For  many  years  it  was  the  summer  residence  of  the 
Governors,  and  on  being  visited  by  Prince  William  Henry  of  England  (af- 


374  Route  55.  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


terwards  William  IV.)  an  abortive  attempt  was  made  to  change  its  name 
to  William  Henry.  The  place  has  about  3,000  inhabitants,  and  is  built 
around  a large  square,  near  which  are  fine  Roman  and  Anglican  churches. 
The  hunting  and  fishing  in  this  vicinity  are  of  provincial  fame.  The 
steamer  now  passes  another  archipelago,  and  at  5 M.  below  Sorel  enters 
Lake  St.  Peter , a broadening  of  the  river  25  M.  long  and  9 M.  wide.  The 
lake  is  shallow,  but  has  a deep  and  narrow  channel  (partly  artificial), 
which  is  marked  out  by  buoys  and  poles,  and  is  used  by  large  vessels. 
Immense  lumber-rafts  are  often  seen  here,  drifting  downward  like  floating 
islands,  and  bearing  streamers,  sails,  and  the  rude  huts  of  the  lumber- 
men. In  stormy  weather  on  the  lake  these  rafts  sometimes  come  to 
pieces.  Soon  after  entering  this  broad  expanse,  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Francis  River  is  seen  on  the  r. , with  the  village  of  St.  Francis.  Below 
the  shores  of  Lussaudiere  and  St.  Antoine,  the  mouth  of  the  Nicolet 
River  appears  on  the  r.,  and  farther  down  (on  the  1.)  is  the  village  of 
Fond  du  Lac.  Three  Rivers  is  now  approached,  and  the  steamer  stops 
midway  between  Montreal  and  Quebec.  This  city  was  founded  (as  Trois 
Rivieres)  in  1618,  and  has  at  present  6,000  inhabitants,  with  a large  trade 
in  lun.  ber,  which  is  brought  down  the  St.  Maurice  River.  The  Catholic 
Cathedral,  the  Ursuline  Convent,  and  other  fine  buildings  adorn  the  city. 

The  St.  Maurice  River  waters  a district  of  immense  (and  unknown)  extent, 
abounding  in  lakes  and  in  forests.  Portions  of  this  great  northern  wilderness 
have  been  visited  by  the  lumbermen,  who  conduct  rafts  to  Three  Rivers,  where 
the  lumber  is  sawed.  About  30  M.  above  the  city  are  the  noble  Falls  of  the  Shaw- 
anegan,  where  the  great  river  plunges  over  a perpendicular  descent  of  150  ft.,  be- 
tween the  lofty  rocks  called  La  Grand-Mere  and  Le  Bonhomme.  A few  miles  above 
are  the  Falls  of  the  Grand-Mere.  These  falls  are  visited  by  engaging  canoes  and 
guides  at  Three  Rivers,  while  hunting-parties  conducted  by  Canadian  voyageurs 
or  Algonquin  Indians  sometimes  pass  thence  into  the  remote  northern  forests  in 
pursuit  of  the  larger  varieties  of  game.  Three  Rivers  is  widely  known  for  its 
foundries,  where  bog-iron  ore  is  converted  into  car- wheels  and  stoves. 

Opposite  Three  Rivers  is  Doucet’s  Landing,  at  Becancour,  the  terminus 
of  a branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  (see  Route  40),  and  to  the  N.  E., 
across  the  St.  Maurice,  is  the  thriving  village  of  Cap  de  la  Magdelaine. 
The  steamer  passes  Gentilly  (on  the  r.)  and  stops  at  Batiscan , 17  M.  be- 
low Three  Rivers,  then  passes  Ste.  Marie  and  Ste.  Anne,  on  the  1.,  and 
St.  Pierre,  on  the  r.  Lotbiniere,  on  the  r.,  is  seen,  and  then  the  village 
of  St.  Croix,  standing  on  Pointe  Platon.  Point  aux  Trembles  marks  the 
transition  from  the  low  shores  toward  Lake  St.  Peter  to  the  lofty  summits 
of  the  Laurentian  Mts.  St.  Augustin  (1.)  and  St.  Antoine  (r. ) are  next 
passed,  and  then  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere,  Cap  Rouge,  and  the  village 
of  St.  Jean  Chrysostome.  The  heights  of  Point  Levi  now  appear  on  the 
r.,  and  on  the  1.  are  the  walls  and  spires  of  Quebec.  Travellers  by  the 
night-boat  should  make  arrangements  to  be  awakened  an  hour  before 
reaching  the  end  of  the  route,  as  the  view  of  Quebec  from  the  river  at 
early  morning  is  a thing  which  can  never  be  forgotten. 


QTJEKEC. 


1 Catholic  CjthoJj-al 

EX 

2 (btsfluvm 

3 Wesleyan  ChurcJh.- 

Ml. 

M3. 

4 Presbyterian  ". 

F.4. 

5 St.  John  ( CalJil 

6 Si.  Matthew 

<13. 

0.3. 

7 St.  SinwetiJi-.L.—i- 

8 Sl.Roch 

9 Noire  Dame  des 

A.2. 

_.C.2. 

\icfoircs 

Mi. 

10  drddhlops  Palace 

11  S military 

Ii3. 

M3. 

12  lam! * University 

13  Hotel Dien  foment 

M3. 

M3. 

11  ihsidinr 

i:.i. 

15  Gray  Sister* 

1)3. 

16  (myreyafiojialff 

V.2. 

17  General  Hospital . 

112. 

18  Marine  

r,i. 

19  Morrin  Calf  eye 

M3. 

20  PeuJiammt  Hon  so . 

21  Court  House. 

K3. 

MI. 

22  Gown  Lands  Dep. 

Mi. 

23  Hiyh  School 

M.l. 

21  (lowmori  Gardae  _ . 
25  Custom  House 

K.I. 

M3. 

26  Champlain  Market . 

MI. 

21  Jail...... .... 

1)3. 

28  Wolfes  Monument 

R3. 

29  Amiri  ran  fans  a lode  .. 

30  St.  John  's  Cate 

F.3. 

1)3. 

31  StJoulS  " 

32  Prescott;  '' 1 

01. 

*;.im. 

$3  Hope ", . 

M3. 

31  PuJAice  . 

M3. 

35  St  Louis  Hotel 

E.4. 

36  Stadarorw  •:  

E.3. 

37  J e stub Bviftii nqs  . 

38  Post  Office.:. 

E.3. 

E.3 

qtjekec. 

1 Catholic  Cathedral  K.». 

2 Hnylican  M4. 

3 Wesleyan  Church  J .«  *• 

4 Pcfsiuj/crian  " M4. 

5 St.  John  < Calk) M3 . 

6 SL Matthew Ho. 

7 St.  Stniveur  A.2. 

8 St Modi C.2. 

9 Noire  Dam  e de.s 

Vidob'cs Ivl'. 

10  (1/rLilrislopx  Palace  L..1 

11  Seminary  K.!>. 

12  Laval  University. ......  I4. 3 . 

13  Hotel  Dim  Cement  M3  • 

14  UrsuLmr  K/1'. 

15  Gray  Sisters ;_'l D.3. 

10  Cmpreyafienal  M2. 

17  General  Hospital  11.2. 

18  Marine . 1.1 

19  Morrin  Coflnje  1.3. 

20 1 w liament  House  !.  3 . 

21  Court  House — Ml. 

22  (JramoLandsDcp.  E.4. 
tUnyhSchooC. ...... -E.4. 

24  (icrenwis  Gardens ....  M4. 

25  Custom  House  13. 

26  Champlain  Market  14 . 

25  Jail -15. 

28  Wolfes  Monamenl  11). 

29  Amairan  Consulate  F.3. 
50  St  Johns  Gale  143. 

31  St.  Louis,  . 114. 

32  Prescott.  I l l 

$3  Hope  M3. 

34  PaJaice  - M3. 


33  Si,  Louis  Hotel  11. 

36  Statin  ronn  1*1 

37  JryuilCuOJjntfs  K.tV 

38  r^OOic^' 


QUEBEC. 


Route  56.  375 


56.  Quebec. 

Arrival.  If  the  traveller  has  much  baggage,  it  is  best  to  take  the  hotel  car- 
riage to  the  Upper  Town.  The  caleche  is  not  adapted  to  carrying  luggage. 

Hotels#  The  St.  Louis  Hotel  (near  the  Durham  Terrace)  is  a large,  old  house, 
accommodating  4-500  guests,  at  $3-4.00  a day.  The  Stadacona  House  (on  Pal- 
ace St.)  is  less  pretentious  and  expensive.  Henchey’s  Hotel,  opposite  the  Angli- 
can Cathedral,  is  quiet  and  moderate  (for  gentlemen  travelling  en  gargon).  In  the 
Lower  Town  is  Blanchard’s  Hotel,  and  several  others,  two  of  which  are  French. 

Carriages  in  every  variety  may  be  procured  at  the  stables,  but  the  usual  mode 
of  riding  is  by  the  caleche :,  a singular  and  usually  very  shabby-looking  vehicle, 
perched  on  two  high  wheels,  with  the  driver  sitting  on'  a narrow  ledge  in  front. 
These  vehicles  are  drawn  by  homely  but  hardy  little  horses,  and  are  usually  driven 
by  French  Canadians.  1-2  persons  may  engage  a caleche  to  go  to  the  Montmo- 
renci  Falls,  Lorette,  or  Cap  Rouge,  for  $2.00.  Horse-cars  traverse  the  riverward 
streets  in  the  Lower  Town. 

Reading-rooms.  The  Y.  M.  C.  Association,  just  off  Fabrique  St.,  near  the 
Jesuit  buildings,  and  the  elegant  library  of  the  Quebec  Historical  Society  (in 
Morrin  College)  are  open  to  the  visits  of  strangers. 

Language.  More  than  half  of  the  citizens  of  Quebec,  and  nearly  all  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  villages,  speak  French  as  their  mother-tongue. 
Very  many  of  them  have  a knowledge,  more  or  less  perfect,  of  the  English  lan- 
guage, while  many  of  the  British  citizens  speak  French  also.  The  language  in  its 
written  forms  (as  seen  in  the  numerous  French  books,  magazines,  and  newspapers 
published  in  Quebec)  is  correct  and  intelligible,  but  the  speech  of  the  lower  classes 
and  of  the  rustics  is  difficult  and  often  impossible  to  understand.  It  is  not 
Parisian  or  even  Rouennaise  French,  but  a strong  provincial  dialect,  brought 
from  the  rural  districts  of  Normandy  in  the  17th  century,  and  enriched  by  the 
addition  of  later  local  idioms.  (The  sharp,  dissyllabic  cry  with  which  the  caleche- 
drivers  urge  their  horses  forward,  is  “Marche-donc.”) 

The  Post-Office  is  on  St.  Anne  St.  The  most  attractive  shops  are  on  Fabrique 
and  St.  John  Sts.,  and  about  the  French  Cathedral. 

Railways.  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  has  its  terminal  station  at  Point 
Levi,  317  M.  from  Portland,  425  M.  from  Boston,  586  M.  from  New  York,  and 
2,684  M.  from  New  Orleans.  There  is  also  a railroad  of  most  primitive  construc- 
tion, with  its  terminus  in  the  Banlieue,  which  runs  slow  and  infrequent  trains  up 
the  valley  of  the  St.  Charles  for  20  - 25  M.  To  Boston,  see  Routes  24  and  29,  or 
Routes  40  and  37. 

Steamers.  Ferry-boats  run  to  Point  Levi  every  15  minutes  ; also  thrice  daily 
to  the  Isle  of  Orleans  ; and  at  varying  intervals  to  the  French  river-towns.  Semi- 
weekly steamers  run  to  the  Saguenay  River  ; fare  to  Cacouna  and  return,  $ 3 00  ; 
*to  Tadousac,  $ 4.00 ; to  Ha  Ha  Bay  and  return,  $ 7.00.  Large  steamers  leave 
weekly  for  the  Gulf  ports  ; fares  to  Father  Point  (with  meals  and  state-room), 
$4.00  (175  M.)  or  2d  class,  $2.00;  to  Gaspe  (443  M.),  1st  class,  $10.00;  2d 
class,  $4.00;  by  Perce  and  Paspebiac  to  Dalhousie,  Chatham,  and  Newcastle, 
$14.00  ; to  Shediac,  $15.00  ; and  to  Pictou,  1,021  M.  from  Quebec,  $16.00.  The 
large  river-steamers  of  the  Richelieu  line  leave  for  Montreal  daily.  The  Allan  line 
of  transatlantic  steamers  despatches  one  ship  weekly  during  the  summer  and 
early  fall. 


Quebec,  “the  Gibraltar  of  America,”  and  the  second  city  in  the 
Dominion  of  Canada,  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Charles  and 
St.  Lawrence  Rivers,  400  M.  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  180  M. 
from  Montreal.  It  has  over  60,000  inhabitants,  and  its  chief  business  is 
in  the  handling  and  exportation  of  lumber,  of  which  $ 5-7,000,000  worth  * 
is  sent  away  annually.  There  are  miles  of  coves  along  the  St.  Lawrence 
shore,  arranged  for  the  reception  and  protection  of  the  vast  rafts  which 
come  down  from  the  northern  forests.  A very  considerable  export  trade 


376  Route  56. 


QUEBEC. 


in  grain  is  also  done  here,  and  the  city  derives  much  benefit  from  being 
the  terminus  of  transatlantic  lines  of  shipping,  which  makes  it  a depot  of 
immigration.  Qiiebec  is  built  nearly  in  the  form  of  a triangle,  bounded 
by  the  two  rivers  and  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  is  divided  into  the 
Upper  and  Lower  Towns,  the  former  being  enwalled  and  strongly  fortified 
and  standing  on  a bluff  350  ft.  high,  while  the  latter  is  built  on  the  con- 
tracted strips  between  the  cliffs  and  the  rivers.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
crooked,  and  often  very  steep,  while  the  houses  are  generally  built  of 
cut  stone,  in  a style  of  severe  simplicity. 

Jacques  Cartier  set  sail  from  St.  Malo,  in  the  spring  of  1535,  with  three  well- 
armed  vessels,  and  steering  boldly  to  the  westward,  he  entered  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence  and  gave  it  its  present  name,  in  honor  of  the  saint  on  whose  festival- 
day  he  had  made  the  discovery.  He  ascended  to  Stadacona,  an  Indian  village  on 
the  site  of  Quebec  (whose  present  name  is  derived  from  “Quel  bee  !”  the  Norman 
sailors’ shout  on  seeing  the  lofty  precipice,  or  else  from  “Quebeio,”an  Algon- 
quin word  meaning  strait.)  After  ascending  to  Montreal,  Cartier  returned  to 
Quebec  and  wintered  there,  and  in  1640  a fort  was  erected  near  Charlesbourg.  The 
place  was  then  deserted  until  1608,  when  Champlain  founded  Quebec,  and  built  a 
fort  on  its  present  site.  Franciscan  monks  came  to  the  new  colony  in  1615,  and 
in  1644  a party  of  Jesuits  arrived.  In  1628  Sir  David  Kirk  (or  Kertk)  attacked 
the  place,  and  in  1629,  after  a long  blockade,  the  English  fleet  took  Quebec.  It 
was  restored  to  France  in  1632,  and  in  1635  Governor  Champlain  died  here  and 
was  buried  in  the  Lower  Town.  In  1665  a large  cargo  of  ladies  arrived  from 
France,  and  were  all  disposed  of  in  marriage  within  a fortnight.  In  1672  the 
Count  de  Frontenac  was  sent  here  as  Governor,  and  in  1690  he  bravely  repulsed 
an  attack  by  Sir  Wm.  Phipps’s  fleet  (from  Boston),  inflicting  severe  damage  by  a 
cannonade  from  the  fort.  Besides  many  men,  the  assailants  lost  their  admiral’s 
standard  and  eight  vessels.  In  1711  Sir  Hovenden  Walker  sailed  from  Boston 
against  Quebec,  but  he  lost  in  one  day  eight  vessels  and  884  men  by  shipwreck 
on  the  terrible  cliffs  of  Cape  Desespoir.  Strong  fortifications  were  built  soon 
after  ; and  in  1759  Gen.  Wolfe  came  up  the  river  with  8,000  British  soldiers.  The 
Marquis  de  Montcalm  was  then  Governor,  and  he  moved  the  French  army  into 
fortified  lines  on  Beauport  Plains,  where  he  defeated  the  British  in  a sanguinary 
action.  On  the  night  of  Sept.  12,  Wolfe’s  army  drifted  up  stream  on  the  rising 
tide,  and  succeeded  in  scaling  the  steep  cliffs  beyond  the  city.  They  were  fired 
upon  by  the  French  outposts  ; but  before  Montcalm  could  bring  his  forces  across 
the  St.  Charles  the  British  lines  were  formed  upon  the  Plains  of  Abraham  ; and  in 
the  short  but  desperate  battle  which  ensued  both  the  generals  were  mortally 
wounded.  The  English  lost  664  men,  and  the  French  lost  1,500.  The  French  ' 
army,  which  was  largely  composed  of  provincial  levies  (with  the  regiments  of  La 
Guienne,  Royal  Roussilon,  Bearn,  La  Sarre,  and  Languedoc)  gave  way,  and 
retreated  across  the  St.  Charles,  and  a few  days  later  the  city  surrendered. 

In  April,  1760,  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  (of  that  Levis  family— Dukes  of  Venta- 
dour  — which  claimed  to  possess  records  of  their  lineal  descent  from  the  patriarch 
Levi)  led  the  reorganized  French  army  to  St.  Foye,  near  Quebec.  Gen.  Murray, 
hoping  to  surprise  Levis,  advanced  (with  3,000  men)  from  his  line  position  on  the 
Plains  of  Abraham  ; but  the  French  were  vigilant,  and  Murray  was  defeated  and 
hurled  back  within  the  city  gates,  having  lost  1,000  men  and  20  cannon . Levis  now 
laid  close  siege  to  the  city,  and  battered  the  walls  (and  especially  St.  John’s  Gate) 
from  three  heavy  field-works.  Quebec  answered  with  an  almost  incessant  cannon- 
ade from  132  guns,  until  Commodore  Swanton  came  up  the  river  with  a fleet  from 
England.  The  British  supremacy  in  Canada  was  soon  afterwards  assured  by  the 
Treaty  of  Paris,  and  Voltaire  congratulated  Louis  XV.  on  being  rid  of  “ 1,500 
-leagues  of  frozen  country.”  In  the  winter  of  1775-6  the  Americans  besieged  the 
city,  then  commanded  by  Gen.  Guy  Carleton  (afterwards  made  Lord  Dorchester). 
The  provisions  of  the  besiegers  began  to  fail,  their  regiments  were  being  depleted 
by  sickness,  and  their  light  guns  made  but  little  impression  on  the  massive 
city-walls  ; so  an  assault  was  ordered  and  conducted  before  dawn  on  Dec.  31,  1775. 
In  the  midst  of  a heavy  snow-storm  Arnold  advanced  through  the  Lower  Town 


QUEBEC. 


Route  56.  377 


from  his  quarters  near  the  St.  Charles  River,  and  led  his  830  New-Englanders  and 
Virginians  over  two  or  three  barricades.  The  Montreal  Bank  and  several  other 
massive  stone  houses  were  filled  with  British  regulars,  who  guarded  the  approaches 
with  such  a deadly  fire  that  Arnold’s  men  were  forced  to  take  refuge  in  the  ad- 
joining houses,  while  Arnold  himself  was  badly  wounded  and  carried  to  the  rear. 
Meanwhile  Montgomery  was  leading  his  New-Yorkers  and  Continentals  N.  along 
Champlain  St.  by  the  river-side.  The  intention  was  for  the  two  attacking  columns, 
after  driving  the  enemy  from  the  Lower  Town,  to  unite  before  the  Prescott  Gate 
and  carry  it  by  storm.  A strong  barricade  was  stretched  across  Champlain  St. 
from  the  cliff  to  the  river  ; but  when  its  guards  saw  the  great  masses  of  the  attack- 
ing column  advancing  through  the  twilight,  they  fled.  In  all  probability  Mont- 
gomery would  have  crossed  the  barricade,  delivered  Arnold’s  men  by  attacking 
the  enemy  in  the  rear,  and  then,  with  1,500  men  flushed  with  victory,  would  have 
escaladed  the  Prescott  Gate  and  won  Quebec  and  Canada,  — but  that  one  of  the 
fleeing  Canadians,  impelled  by  a strange  caprice,  turned  quickly  back,  and  fired 
the  cannon  which  stood  loaded  on  the  barricade.  Montgomery  and  many  of  his 
officers  and  men  were  stricken  down  by  the  shot,  and  the  column  broke  up  in 
panic,  and  fled.  The  British  forces  were  now  concentrated  on  Arnold’s  men,  who 
were  hemmed  in  by  a sortie  from  the  Palace  Gate,  and  426  officers  and  men  were 
made  prisoners.  A painted  board  has  been  hung  high  up  on  the  cliff  over  the 
place  in  Champlain  St.  where  Montgomery  fell.  Montgomery  was  an  officer  in 
Wolfe’s  army  when  Quebec  was  taken  from  the  French  15  years  before,  and  knew 
the  ground.  His  mistake  was  in  heading  the  forlorn  hope.  Quebec  was  the 
capital  of  Canada  from  1760  to  1791,  and  after  that  it  served  as  a semi-capital, 
until  the  founding  of  Ottawa  City.  In  1845  2,900  houses  were  burnt  and  the 
place  was  nearly  destroyed,  but  soon  revived  with  the  aid  of  the  great  lumber- 
trade  which  is  still  its  specialty. 

“ There  is  no  city  in  America  more  famous  in  the  annals  of  history  than  Quebec, 
and  few  on  the  continent  of  Europe  more  picturesquely  situated.  Whilst  the 
surrounding  scenery  reminds  one  of  the  unrivalled  views  of  the  Bosphorus,  the 
airy  site  of  the  citadel  and  town  calls  to  mind  Innspruck  and  Edinburgh.  Que- 
bec may  be  best  described  by  supposing  that  an- ancient  Norman  fortress  of  two 
centuries  ago  had  been  encased  in  amber,  transported  by  magic  to  Canada,  and 
placed  on  the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond.” 

“ Quebec,  at  least  for  an  American  city,  is  certainly  a very  peculiar  place.  A 
military  town,  containing  about  20,000  inhabitants  ; most  compactly  and  perma- 
nently built,  — stone  its  sole  material ; environed,  as  to  its  most  important  parts, 
by  walls  and  gates,  and  defended  by  numerous  heavy  cannon  ; . . . . founded 
upon  a rock,  and  in  its  highest  parts  overlooking  a great  extent  of  country ; 
3 - 400  miles  from  the  ocean,  in  the  midst  of  a great  continent,  and  yet  displaying 
fleets  of  foreign  merchantmen  in  its  fine,  capacious  bay,  and  showing  all  the  bustle 
of  a crowded  seaport ; its  streets  narrow,  populous,  and  winding  up  and  down 
almost  mountainous  declivities  ; situated  in  the  latitude  of  the  finest  parts  of 
Europe,  exhibiting  in  its  environs  the  beauty  of  an  European  capital,  and  yet  in 
winter  smarting  with  the  cold  of  Siberia  ; governed  by  a people  of  different 
language  and  habits  from  the  mass  of  the  population,  opposed  in  religion,  and 
yet  leaving  that  population  without  taxes,  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  every  privilege, 
civil  and  religious  : such  are  the  prominent  features  which  strike  a stranger  in 
the  city  of  Quebec.”  (Prof.  Silliman.) 

“ Few  cities  offer  so  many  striking  contrasts  as  Quebec.  A fortress  and  a 
commercial  city  together,  built  upon  the  summit  of  a rock  like  the  nest  of  an 
eagle,  while  her  vessels  are  everywhere  wrinkling  the  face  of  the  ocean  ; an 
American  city  inhabited  by  French  colonists,  governed  by  England,  and  garri- 
soned by  Scotch  regiments  ; a city  of  the  Middle  Ages  by  most  of  its  ancient 
institutions,  while  it  is  subject  to  all  the  combinations  of  modern  constitutional 
government ; an  European  city  by  its  civilization  and  its  habits  of  refinement,  and 
still  close  by  the  remnants  of  the  Indian  tribes  and  the  barren  mts.  of  the  North  ; 
a city  with  about  the  same  latitude  as  Paris,  while  successively  combining  the 
torrid  climate  of  southern  regions  with  the  severities  of  an  hyperborean  winter  ; 
a city  at  the  same  time  Catholic  and  Protestant,  where  the  labors  of  our  (French) 
missions  are  still  uninterrupted  alongside  of  the  undertakings  of  the  Bible  Society, 
and  where  the  Jesuits,  driven  out  of  our  own  country,  find  refuge  under  the 
aegis  of  British  Puritanism.”  (X.  Marmier’s  “ Lettres  sur  V Ameriquc”  1860.) 


378  Route  56. 


THE  DURHAM  TERRACE. 


“Leaving  the  citadel,  we  are  once  more  in  the  European  Middle  Ages.  Gates 
and  posterns,  cranky  steps  that  lead  up  to  lofty,  gabled  houses,  with  sharp 
French  roofs  of  burnished  tin,  like  those  of  Liege  ; processions  of  the  Host  ; altars 
decked  with  flowers  ; statues  of  the  Virgin  ; sabots  ; blouses  ; and  the  scarlet  of 
the  British  linesman,  — all  these  are  seen  in  narrow  streets  and  markets  that  are 
graced  with  many  a Cotentin  lace  cap,  and  all  within  40  miles  of  the  down-east, 

Yankee  State  of  Maine.  It  is  not  far  from  New  England  to  Old  France 

There  has  been  no  dying  out  of  the  race  among  the  French  Canadians.  They 
number  twenty  times  the  thousands  that  they  did  100  years  ago.  The  American 
soil  has  left  their  physical  type,  religion,  language,  and  laws  absolutely  untouched. 
They  herd  together  in  their  rambling  villages,  dance  to  the  fiddle  after  mass  on 
Sundays,  — as  gayly  as  once  did  their  Norman  sires,  — and  keep  up  the  Jleur-de-lys 
and  the  memory  of  Montcalm.  More  French  than  the  French  are  the  Lower 
Canada  habitans.  The  pulse-beat  of  the  continent  finds  no  echo  here.”  (Sir 
Charles  Dilke.) 

The  Durham  Terrace  is  on  the  riverward  edge  of  the  Upper  Town,  and 
stands  on  the  buttresses  and  platform  formerly  occupied  by  the  Chateau 
of  St.  Louis,  which  was  built  by  Champlain  in  1620.  The  old  chateau 
was  a massive  stone  structure,  200  ft.  long,  used  for  a fortress,  prison,  and 
governor’s  palace,  and  it  stood  until  1834,  when  it  was  ruined  by  fire. 
The  terrace  is  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  commands  a * view  of  surpass- 
ing beauty.  Immediately  below  are  the  sinuous  streets  of  the  Lower 
Town,  with  its  wharves  projecting  into  the  stream.  On  one  side  are  the 
lofty,  fortified  bluffs  of  Point  Levi,  and  on  the  other  the  St.  Charles  River 
winds  away  up  its  peaceful  valley.  The  white  houses  of  Beauport  stretch 
off  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  while  beyond  are  seen  the 
farms  of  L’  Ange  Gardien,  extending  towards  the  heights  of  St.  Fereol.  Ves- 
sels of  all  classes  and  sizes  are  anchored  in  the  broad  basin  and  the  river, 
and  the  rich  and  verdant  Isle  of  Orleans  is  in  mid-stream  below.  Beyond 
and  over  all  are  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Laurentian  Range,  with  Cap  Tour- 
mente  towering  over  the  river  far  in  the  distance.  The  Terrace  is  the 
favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens,  and  presents  a pleasant  scene  in  the 
late  afternoon  or  on  pleasant  Sundays.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  Terrace 
is  a plain  stone  structure  called  the  Old  Chateau,  which  was  built  about 
1780  for  the  British  governors. 

“ There  is  not  in  the  world  a nobler  outlook  than  that  from  the  terrace  at  Que- 
bec. You  stand  upon  a rock  overhanging  city  and  river,  and  look  down  upon  the 
guard-ships’  masts.  Acre  upon  acre  of  timber  comes  floating  down  the  stream 
above  the  city,  the  Canadian  boat-songs  just  reaching  you  upon  the  heights  ; and 
beneath  you  are  fleets  of  great  ships,  English,  German,  French,  and  Dutch,  em- 
barking the  timber  from  the  floating  docks.  The  Stars  and  Stripes  are  nowhere 
to  be  seen.”  (Sir  Charles  Dilke.) 

The  Place  d’Armes  is  a pretty  little  park  between  the  Terrace  and  the 
Anglican  Cathedral,  a large,  plain  building  of  stone,  which  has  a superb 
communion-set  (presented  by  George  III.),  and  within  which  is  the  tomb 
of  Charles,  Duke  of  Richmond,  Lennox,  and  Daubigny,  who  died  while 
Governor-General  of  Canada  (1819).  The  monument  of  Jacob  Mountain, 
D.  D.,  first  Anglican  Bishop,  is  in  the  chancel.  Dr.  Mountain  was  in  the 
presence  of  King  George,  when  he  expressed  a doubt  as  to  whom  he  should 


AROUND  THE  RAMPARTS.  Route  56.  379 


appoint  as  bishop  of  the  new  See  of  Quebec.  Said  the  doctor,  “ If  your 
Majesty  had  faith,  there  would  be  no  difficulty.”  “ Iiow  so  ? ” said  the 
king.  Mountain  answered,  “ If  you  had  faith,  you  would  say  to  this 
Mountain,  Be  thou  removed  into  that  See,  and  it  would  be  done.”  It 
was.  The  Cathedral,  rectory,  and  Chapel  of  All  Saints,  stand  on  ground 
formerly  occupied  by  the  Franciscan  (Recollet)  monks,  and  on  the  same 
tract  the  Court  House  is  built,  fronting  on  St.  Louis  St.  Beyond  the 
Court  House  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  opposite  which  are  the  old  buildings  of 
the  Commissariat  and  Crown  Lands  Departments,  and  the  St.  Louis 
Hotel. 

Around  the  Ramparts. 

The  Street  des  Carrieres  runs  S.  from  the  Place  d’Armes  to  the  Govern- 
or's Garden,  a pleasant  summer-evening  resort,  with  a monument  65  ft. 
high,  erected  in  1827  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  and  bearing 
the  elegant  and  classic  inscription  : 

Mortem.  Virtus.  Communem. 

Famam.  Historia. 

Monumentum.  Posteritas. 

Dedit. 

In  the  lower  garden  is  a battery  which  commands  the  harbor.  Des 
Carrieres  St.  leads  to  the  inner  glacis  of  the  Citadel,  and  by  turning  to 
the  r.  on  St.  Denis  St.,  its  northern  outworks  and  approaches  may  be 
seen.  Passing  a cluster  of  barracks  on  the  r. , and  the  Chalmers  (Pres. ) 
Church  on  the  1.,  and  turning  to  the  1.  on  St.  Louis  St.,  the  St.  Louis 
Gate  is  soon  reached.  A road  turning  to  the  1.  just  inside  the  Gate  leads 
through  deep,  entrenched  passages  commanded  by  powerful  batteries,  and 
by  the  Chain  Gate  to  the  Dalhousie  Gate  of  The  Citadel.  This  immense 
fortification  covers  40  acres  of  ground,  and  is  situated  on  the  summit  of 
Cape  Diamond  (so  called  from  the  glittering  crystals  found  in  the  vicinity), 
which  is  said  to  be  “ the  coldest  place  in  the  British  Empire.”  Since  the 
evacuation  of  Canada  by  the  Imperial  troops,  the  Citadel  has  been  gar- 
risoned by  provincial  volunteers,  and  visitors  are  usually  permitted  to 
pass  around  the  walls  under  the  escort  of  a soldier.  The  * view  from  the 
most  northerly  bastion  (which  contains  an  immense  Armstrong  gun)  sur- 
passes that  from  the  Durham  Terrace,  and  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
in  the  world.  The  Esplanade  extends  to  the  r.  from  the  St.  Louis  Gate, 
and  the  tourist  is  recommended  to  walk  along  the  ramparts  to  St.  John’s 
Gate,  viewing  the  deep  fosse,  the  massive  outworks,  and  the  ancient 
ordnance  at  the  embrasures.  On  the  r.  are  the  Stadacona  Club  House,  the 
Congregational  (Catholic)  Church,  and  the  National  School ; while  the 
suburban  ward  of  Montcalm  is  on  the  1.  St.  John’s  Gate  is  a modern 
structure,  and  is  both  strong  and  graceful.  While  rallying  his  soldiers 


380  Route  56. 


QUEBEC. 


just  outside  of  this  Gate,  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm  was  mortally  wounded 
(in  1759),  and  Col.  Brown  (of  Mass.)  attacked  the  Gate  while  Arnold  and 
Montgomery  were  fighting  in  the  Lower  Town.  The  ramparts  must  be 
left  here,  and  D’Auteuil  and  St.  Helene  Sts.  follow  their  course  by  the 
Artillery  Barracks  (built  by  the  French  in  1750)  to  the  Palace  Gate, 
close  to  which  is  the  Hotel  Dieu  Convent.  This  institution  was  faunded 
by  the  Duchesse  d’Aguillon  (niece  of  Cardinal  Richelieu)  in  1639.  In  1654 
one  of  the  present  buildings  was  erected,  and  most  of  it  was  built  during 
the  17th  century,  while  Talon,  Baron  des  Islets,  completed  it  in  1762. 
There  are  30  - 40  nuns  of  the  order  of  the  Hopitalieres,  and  the  hospital 
is  open  freely  to  the  sick  and  infirm  poor  of  whatever  sect,  with  attend- 
ance by  the  best  doctors  of  the  city.  Among  the  pictures  here  are,  Virgin 
and  Child,  by  Coy  pel ; Nativity,  Stella ; St.  Bruno,  by  Le Sueur,  “the 
Raphael  of  France.”  From  Palace  Gate  to  Hope  Gate  (900  ft.)  the  ram- 
parts may  be  followed,  with  fine  views  over  the  two  rivers,  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  and  the  Laurentian  Mts.  The  walls  are  built  on  a lofty  cliff,  and 
are  very  thin,  but  have  lines  of  loopholes  and  are  guarded  by  bastions. 
Hope  Gate  was  built  in  1784,  and  has  well-fortified  approaches.  The 
ramparts  may  be  followed  from  this  point  to  the  Parliament  House,  pass- 
ing the  stately  Laval  University  and  the  Grand  Battery,  where  22  32- 
pounders  command  the  river,  and  whence  a pleasing  view  may  be  ob- 
tained. The  Parliament  House  is  on  the  site  of  Champlain’s  fort  and 
the  ancient  Episcopal  palace,  and  is  an  extensive  but  plain  building,  whose 
glory  has  departed  since  the  decapitalization  of  Quebec.  A short  distance 
beyond  is  the  Prescott  Gate,  the  main  avenue  of  communication  between 
the  Upper  and  Lower  Towns,  and  Durham  Terrace  is  just  S.  of  the  Gate. 

The  Market  Square  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  Upper  Town,  and 
presents  a curious  and  interesting  appearance  on  market-mornings,  when 
the  French  peasantry  bring  in  their  farm  products.  On  the  E.  is  the 
Roman  Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  which  was  built  in  1666, 
destroyed  by  cannonading  from  Wolfe’s  batteries  in  1759,  and  rebuilt  soon 
after.  Its  exterior  is  quaint,  irregular,  and  homely,  but  the  interior  is 
more  pleasing,  and  accommodates  4,000  persons.  The  High  Altar  is  well 
adorned,  and  the  choir  of  boys  from  the  Seminary  is  much  esteemed. 
The  most  notable  pictures  are,  **The  Crucifixion  (“the  Christ  of  the 
Cathedral,”  the  finest  painting  in  Canada),  by  Van  Dyck  (on  the  first  pillar 
1.  of  the  altar)  ; the  Ecstasy  of  St.  Paul,  Carlo  Mar atti ; the  Annunci- 
ation, Restout ; the  Baptism  of  Christ,  Halle  ; the  Pentecost,  Vignon  ; 
Miracles  of  Ste.  Anne,  Plamondon  ; Angels  Waiting  on  Christ,  Restout 
(in  the  choir)  ; the  Nativity,  copy  from  Annibale  Caracci  ; Holy  Family, 
Blanchard.  The  remains  of  Champlain,  the  heroic  explorer  and  founder 
and  first  Governor  of  Quebec,  are  in  the  Cathedral.  Alongside  of  the 
Cathedral  are  the  ancient,  rambling,  and  extensive  buildings  of  the  Semi- 


QUEBEC. 


Route  56.  381 


nary,  which  was  founded  in  1663  by  Francois  de  Montmorenci  Laval, 
Bishop  of  Quebec  from  1658  to  1688.  This  institution  is  divided  into  Le 
Grand  Seminaire  and  Le  Petit  Seminaire  ; the  first  being  a school  of 
theology,  and  the  second  being  devoted  to  literature  and  science  (for  boys). 
There  are  about  400  students,  who  may  be  distinguished  in  the  streets  by 
their  uniform. 

The  Seminary  Chapel  has  some  fine  paintings  (beginning  at  the  r.  of  the 
entrance):  The  Saviour  and  the  Samaritan  Woman,  La  Grenee ; The  Virgin  At- 
tended by  Angels,  Lieu;  The  Crucifixion,  Monet;  The  Hermits  of  the  Thebaid, 
Guillot;  The  Vision  of  St.  Jerome,  D’Hullin;  *The  Ascension,  Phillipe  de  Cham- 
pagne; The  Burial  of  Christ,  Hutin ; (over  the  altar)  The  Flight  into  Egypt, 
Vanloo ; above  which  is  a picture  of  angels,  Lebrun;  The  Trance  of  St.  Anthony, 
Parrocel  d' Avignon  ; The  Day  of  Pentecost,  P.  de  Champagne ; St.  Peter  Freed  from 
Prison,  De  la  Fosse;  The  Baptism  of  Christ,  Halle;  St.  Jerome  Writing,  J.  B. 
Champagne;  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  Bonnieu.  “ The  Chapel  on  the  r.  of  the  chief 
altar  contains  the  relics  of  St.  Clement ; that  on  the  1.  the  relics  of  St.  Modestus.” 

Adjoining  the  Seminary  is  its  goodly  child,  the  Laval  University, 
whose  main  building  is  of  cut  stone,  305  ft.  long  and  5 stories  high,  and 
cost  $240,000.  The  museum  of  Huron  antiquities,  the  collection  of  Ca- 
nadian birds,  the  library  of  nearly  50,000  volumes,  the  fine  scientific  in- 
struments, the  great  hall  of  convocation,  and  the  far-viewing,  enrailed 
promenade  on  the  roof  are  all  worthy  of  a visit.  The  extensive  dormi- 
tories and  the  medical  college  occupy  substantial  stone  buildings  in  the 
vicinity. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Market  Square  is  the  great  pile  of  buildings 
which  were  partly  erected  in  1646,  for  the  Jesuits’  College.  The  college 
was  suspended  in  1759  by  Gen.  Murray,  who  quartered  his  troops  here, 
and  in  1809  the  property  reverted  to  the  Crown,  on  the  death  of  the  last 
of  the  J esuit  Fathers.  The  buildings  have  since  been  used  for  barracks, 
when  used  at  all.  Passing  St.  Anne’s  Market  and  the  Anglican  Cathedral, 
Garden  St.  runs  S.  to  the  Ursuline  Convent,  which  was  founded  by 
Madame  de  la  Peltrie  in  1639.  Part  of  the  present  buildings  'svere  built 
in  1686,  and  with  the  gardens  and  offices  they  cover  7 acres.  There  are 
40  nuns,  who  are  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and  also  to  working  in  em- 
broidery, painting,  &c.  The  parlor  and  chapel  are  open  to  visitors,  and 
in  the  latter  are  some  good  paintings  : * Mater  Dolorosa,  Van  Dyck  j The 
Saviour,  Champagne ; Christ  in  Simon’s  House,  Champagne ; and  a 
small  picture  by  Restout.  Within  a grave  made  by  a shell  which  burst 
in  this  chapel,  during  Wolfe’s  bombardment,  is  buried  “the  High  and 
Mighty  Lord,  Louis  Joseph,  Marquis  of  Montcalm,”  and  over  his  remains 
is  the  inscription,  “ Honneur  a Montcalm  ! Le  destin  en  lui  derobant  la 
victoire  l’a  recompense  par  une  mort  glorieuse  ! ” Morrin  College  (on  St. 
Anne  St.)  is  a neat  stone  building,  in  one  of  whose  halls  is  the  extensive 
and  valuable  library  of  the  Quebec  Historical  Society  (open  to  the  pub- 
lic). There  are  several  other  churches  and  public  buildings  among  the 


382  Route  56. 


QUEBEC. 


narrow  streets  of  the  Upper  Town.  St.  Patrick's , on  St.  Helen  St.,  lias 
a neat  Ionic  interior,  and  the  church,  manse,  and  school  of  St.  Andrew 
(Presbyterian)  occupy  stone  buildings  on  St.  Anne  St.  At  the  corner  of 
St.  John  and  Palace  Sts.  (second  story)  is  a statue  of  Wolfe,  which  is 
nearly  a century  old,  and  bears  such  a relation  to  Quebec  as  does  the 
Mannikin  to  Brussels.  It  was  once  stolen  by  night  by  some  roystering 
naval  officers,  and  carried  off  to  Barbadoes,  whence  it  was  returned  many 
months  after,  enclosed  in  a coffin.  In  the  front  of  the  Post-Office,  on 
Buade  St.,  is  a figure  of  a dog,  carved  in  the  stone  and  gilded,  under  which 
is  the  inscription  : — 

“ Je  suls  un  chien  qui  ronge  l'os ; (“  I am  a dog  gnawing  a bone. 

En  le  rongeant  je  prend  mon  repos.  While  I gnaw  I take  my  repose. 

Un  temps  viendra  qui  n’est  pas  venu  The  time  will  come,  though  not  yet, 

Que  je  mordrais  qui  m’aura  mordu.”  When  I will  bite  him  who  now  bites  me.”) 

This  lampoon  was  aimed  at  the  Intendant  Bigot  by  M.  Philibert,  who  had 
suffered  wrong  from  him ; but  soon  after  the  carved  stone  had  been  put 
into  the  front  of  Philibert’s  house,  that  gentleman  was  assassinated  by  an 
officer  of  the  garrison.  The  murderer  exchanged  into  the  East  Indian 
army,  but  was  pursued  by  ^hilibert’s  brother,  and  after  a severe  conflict 
was  killed  at  Pondicherry.  Near  the  Post-Office  is  the  large  and  elegant 
building  of  the  Bishop's  Palace.  Mountain  St.  descends  through  the 
Prescott  Gate  to  the  Lower  Town,  with  the  steep,  crowded,  and  pictu- 
resque Champlain  Steps  on  the  r.,  near  whose  foot  the  remains  of  Cham- 
plain were  recently  found,  in  the  vault  of  an  ancient  chapel. 

The  Montcalm  and  St.  John  Wards  extend  W.  from  the  city  walls  to 
the  line  of  the  Martello  Towers.  In  the  latter  ward  is  the  large  Church 
of  St.  John  (Catholic),  and  also  the  Gray  Nunnery  (70  sisters),  with  a 
lofty  and  elegant  chapel.  Above  the  Nunnery  and  fronting  on  the  glacis 
is  the  Convent  of  the  Christian  Brothers.  The  steep  street  called  Cote 
d’ Abraham  descends  thence  to  the  Jacques  Cartier  Ward  of  the  Lower 
Town,  beyond  which,  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Charles,  is  the  Marine 
Hospital,  a large  and  imposing  modern  building  in  Ionic  architecture 
(with  6 acres  of  grounds)  ; and  the  General  Hospital,  an  extensive  pile 
of  buildings,  founded  by  He  Vallier,  second  bishop  of  Quebec  (in  1693), 
and  conducted  by  40 -50  nuns  of  St.  Augustine.  The  churches  of  St. 
Sauveur  (in  the  Banlieu)  and  St.  Roch  are  large  structures,  with  many 
inferior  pictures,  and  the  Black  Nunnery  is  near  the  latter.  St.  Roch’s 
W ard  is  mostly  devoted  to  manufactories  and  to  shipbuilding  (on  the  St. 
Charles  shore).  St.  Paul  St.  runs  E.  between  the  fortified  cliffs  and  the 
river,  to  St.  Peter  St.,  which  turns  S.,  and  near  which  are  the  chief  banks, 
wholesale  houses,  and  harbor  offices.  At  the  neighboring  wharves  are  the 
ships  and  ocean-steamers,  with  many  small  and  dirty  steamboats  which 
ply  to  the  neighboring  river-towns.  The  Custom  House  (near  Pointe  a 
Garcy)  and  the  Champlain  Market  are  in  this  quarter,  and  are  fine  stone 


CAP  ROUGE. 


Route  56.  383 


buildings.  The  Church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Victoires  is  a plain  old  struc- 
ture near  the  market,  which  dates  from  before  1690.  It  was  so  named, 
and  was  decorated  with  trophies,  in  gratitude  for  the  defeat  of  Sir  Wm. 
Phipps’  attack  in  1690,  and  the  terrible  disaster  to  Admiral  Walker  s ex- 
pedition at  Cape  Desespoir.  The  Queen’s  Fuel  Yard  is  below  the  Palace 
Gate,  and  occupies  the  site  of  an  immense  range  of  buildings  erected  by 
Bigot,  13th  and  last  Royal  (French)  Intendant.  Here  he  lived  in  all  the 
feudal  splendor  of  the  old  French  noblesse , on  the  revenues  which  he  ex- 
torted from  the  oppressed  province.  In  1775  the  palace  was  captured  by 
Arnold’s  Virginia  riflemen,  who  so  greatly  annoyed  the  garrison  that  the 
buildings  were  set  on  fire  and  consumed  by  shells  from  the  batteries  of 
the  Upper  Town.  Under  the  plea  of  “ municipal  improvements,”  it  is 
stated  that  considerable  portions  of  the  old  city  walls  are  now  (1873) 
being  removed. 

Environs  of  Quebec. 

Point  Levi  is  across  the  river  from  Quebec,  and  is  a rapidly  growing 
place,  where  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  terminates.  Upon  the  steep 
bluffs  are  two  neat  churches,  and  a short  distance  to  the  E.  is  a series  of 
powerful  earthworks,  intended  to  prevent  the  establishment  of  hostile 
batteries  within  shelling  distance  of  Quebec.  18  M.  from  Point  Levi  are 
the  * Falls  of  the  Chaudiere , where  that  river  dashes,  in  a sheet  350  ft.  wide, 
down  a precipice  150  ft.  high.  The  Chaudiere  descends  from  Lake  Me- 
gantic,  near  the  Maine  frontier,  passing  through  the  Canadian  gold-fields. 
Arnold’s  hungry  and  heroic  army  followed  the  course  of  this  river  from 
its  source  to  its  mouth.  (See  page  313). 

Cap  Rouge  is  9 M.  from  Quebec,  and  may  be  reached  by  the  Grande 
Allee,  passing  out  of  the  St.  Louis  Gate.  The  road  leads  by  the  Canada 
Military  Asylum,  St.  Bridget’s  Asylum,  and  the  jail,  and  near  the  toll- 
gate  (on  the  1.)  is  seen  a monument  inscribed,  “Here  died  Wolfe,  Vic- 
torious.” The  scene  of  the  Battle  of  the  Plains  is  on  either  hand,  and  the 
Plains  of  Abraham  stretch  away  to  the  S.  There  are  four  Martello  Towers 
on  the  neighboring  fields,  each  built  in  a circular  form  and  of  heavy 
masonry,  while  the  massive  stone  jail,  being  provided  with  long  lines  of 
loopholes,  is  an  efficient  outwork.  About  2 M.  out,  the  Mount  Hermon 
Cemetery  is  passed,  with  the  elegant  Chapel  of  St.  Michael,  and  the 
whole  distance  between  the  city  and  Cap  Rouge  is  lined  with  fine  old 
villas  of  the  noblesse  and  gentry  of  Lower  Canada.  Redclyffe  Mansion  is 
on  the  cape,  near  where  Roberval  wintered  in  1641,  and  in  the  same 
vicinity  batteries  were  erected  by  Montcalm  and  Murray.  In  returning 
to  the  city,  it  is  best  to  turn  to  the  1.  at  St.  Albans,  and  gain  the  Ste.  Foy 
road.  The  broad  and  smiling  valley  of  the  St.  Charles  is  overlooked  from 
this  road,  and  Lorette  may  be  seen  in  the  distance.  As  the  city  is  nearly 


384  Route  5G. 


FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCI. 


approached,  on  the  1.  is  seen  a monumental  column  surmounted  by  a statue 
of  Bellona  (presented  by  Prince  Napoleon),  which  marks  the  site  of  the 
fiercest  part  of  the  Second  Battle  of  the  Plains,  when  De  Levis  defeated 
Murray  (1759).  The  monument  was  dedicated  with  great  pomp  in  1854, 
and  stands  over,  the  grave  of  many  hundreds  who  fell  in  the  fight.  Pass- 
ing now  the  handsome  Finlay  Asylum  and  several  villas,  the  suburb  of 
St.  John  is  entered. 

Indian  Lorette  is  9 M.  from  Quebec,  by  the  Little  Biver  Road.  It  is 
an  ancient  village  of  the  Hurons  (“  Catholics  and  allies  of  France  ”),  and 
the  present  inhabitants  are  a quiet  and  religious  people  in  whom  the 
Indian  blood  predominates,  though  it  is  never  unmixed.  The  men  hunt 
and  fish,  the  women  make  bead- work  and  moccasins,  and  the  boys  earn 
pennies  by  dexterous  archery.  The  Lorette  Falls,  near  the  village,  are 
very  pretty,  and  a few  miles  farther  inland  are  the  Lakes  of  Beauport 
and  St.  Charles.  The  latter  is  4 M.  long,  and  is  famed  for  its  red  trout 
and  for  its  remarkable  echoes. 

Charlesbourg,  4 M.  from  Quebec,  is  an  ancient  village,  with  two 
Catholic  churches,  situated  on  a pleasant  and  picturesque  road.  In  the 
vicinity  is  the  Hermitage,  or  Chateau  Bigot,  a gray  and  romantic  ruin  at 
the  foot  of  Mt.  des  Ormes,  where  Bigot,  the  last  intendant  of  Canada, 
kept  and  visited  a lovely  Algonquin  girl,  until  his  wife  discovered  the 
secret,  and  soon  thereafter  the  Indian  maiden  was  cruelly  murdered. 

The  * * Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  about  8 M.  from  the  city,  by  a road 
which  crosses  the  St.  Charles  River,  passes  several  fine  old  mansions,  and 
traverses  the  long,  straggling  village  of  Beauport,  with  its  stately  church 
and  roadside  crosses.  The  falls  are  250  ft.  high  and  50  ft.  wide,  — a solid 
and  compact  mass  of  water  incessantly  plunging  over  a precipice  of  black 
rock,  with  clouds  of  mist  and  a deafening  roar.  The  Montmorenci  flows 
into  the  St.  Lawrence  a short  distance  below.  Near  the  falls  is  Haldi- 
mand  House,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Kent,  Queen  Victoria’s 
father;  and  on  the  cliffs  by  the  river  are  seen  the  towers  of  a suspension 
bridge  which  fell  soon  after  its  erection,  hurling  three  persons  into  the 
fatal  abyss  below.  A small  fee  is  charged  for  entering  the  fields  to  view 
the  falls,  and  the  tourist  must  be  careful,  not  only  to  visit  the  pavilion 
near  the  falls  (which  commands  also  a charming  view  of  Quebec),  but  to 
insist  on  being  conducted  to  a position  low  down  on  the  shore,  from  which 
the  stupendous  plunge  of  the  Montmorenci  may  best  be  seen.  About  1J 
M.  above  the  falls  are  the  Natural  Steps,  where  the  river  has  cut  the 
ledges  into  a similitude  to  steps,  meanwhile  contracting  its  channel.  The 
views  on  the  road  back  to  Quebec  are  very  beautiful.  At  the  foot  of 
these  falls  an  immense  ice-cone  (sometimes  200  ft.  high)  is  formed  every 
winter,  and  here  the  favorite  sport  of  tobogginning  is  carried  on. 

Sto.  Anne  is  24  M.  below  Quebec  (tri- weekly  steamers),  and  has  a small 


THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 


Route  56.  385 


inn.  2-3  M.  from  the  inn  are  the  beautiful  Falls  of  Ste.  Anne , below 
which  the  river  of  the  same  name  dashes  down  through  a dark  and  sombre- 
ravine.  The  Falls  of  St.  Fereol , the  Seven  Falls,  and  other  remarkable 
objects,  are  in  this  vicinity,  while  just  W.  of  the  village  is  Mt.  Ste.  Anne, 
a picturesque  summit  2,687  ft.  high.  Lake  St.  Joachin  is  a few  miles 
distant,  and  abounds  in  trout,  while  6 - 8 M.  below  is  the  bold  mountain- 
promontory  called  Cap  Tourmente.  Within  the  village  is  the  beautiful 
little  pilgrimage-church  of  Ste.  Anne,  where  it  is  said  that  many  surpris- 
ing miracles  have  been  wrought  by  relics  of  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne  (which 
are  kept  in  a crystal  globe).  Crutches  and  other  helpers  of  the  sick  and 
deformed  are  hung  upon  the  walls  of  the  sacristy,  their  owners  having 
been  made  whole,  while  numerous  rude  votive  pictures  adorn  the  chapels. 
Chateau  Richer  is  S.  of  Ste.  Anne,  and  has  the  ruins  of  a Franciscan 
monastery  on  a bold  point  over  the  river.  This  monastery  was  built  in 
1695,  and  was  so  sturdily  defended  against  Gen.  Wolfe  (even  the  monks 
fought)  that  he  was  obliged  to  destroy  it  by  cannonading.  From  the 
parish-church,  near  the  ruins,  beautiful  views  are  gained  of  L’Ange 
Gardien,  Cape  Diamond,  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans , “the  Garden  of  Lower 
Canada.”  This  isle  is  20  M.  long  and  5-6  M.  wide,  and  is  famed  for  its 
rich  soil.  Cartier,  in  1535,  named  it  the  Isle  of  Bacchus,  and  in  1676  it 
was  made  into  the  Earldom  of  St.  Laurent. 

The  Saguenay  River  (Ha  Ha  Bay)  is  132  M.  from  Quebec,  and 
steamers  run  semi-weekly.  Below  the  St.  Marguerite  Islands  (of  which 
Goose  and  Crane  are  the  largest),  the  St.  Lawrence  attains  and  keeps  a 
width  of  about  20  M.  with  18  ft.  tides,  and  with  seals,  porpoises,  and 
whales  playing  in  the  clear  salt  water.  The  Isle  of  Orleans  is  passed  on 
the  N.,  and  the  quarantine  stations  on  Grosse  Isle  are  seen,  near  the  vast 
promontory  of  Cap  Tourmente.  The  Isle  aux  Coudres  has  a population 
more  purely  Norman  in  its  blood  and  habits  than  any  other  in  Canada. 
Ste.  Anne,  on  the  S.  E.  shore,  has  a Catholic  College  (French),  and 
Malbaie  (Murray  Bay),  80  M.  from  Quebec,  is  a favorite  summer-resort 
for  the  better  classes  of  the  French  Canadians.  The  steamer  crosses  to 
Rivwre  du  Loup , the  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  on  the  E. ; 
6 M.  from  which  is  Cacouna  (St.  Lawrence  Hall,  &c.),  the  Newport  of 
Canada,  where  thousands  of  visitors  enjoy  sea-bathing  during  the  heats 
of  summer.  Tri-weekly  stages  run  from  Riviere  du  Loup  to  the  Grand 
Falls  of  the  St.  John  River,  whence  stages  connect  with  route  49  (see 
page  323).  The  steamer  now  crosses  the  wide  river  to  Tadousac  (large 
summer-hotel),  a post  of  the  Hudson’s  Bay  Company  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Saguenay  River.  Tadousac  was  early  fortified  by  the  French ; it  was  the 
residence  of  Pere  Marquette,  who  explored  the  Mississippi  Valley;  and  it 
now  has  a venerable  Catholic  church,  which  is  said  to  be  more  than  2J 
centuries  old.  The  vast  canon  through  which  the  Saguenay  rolls  its  black 
17  ^ Y 


386  Route  56. 


THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 


waters  is  now  entered,  and  lofty  peaks  and  palisades  tower  on  either  side. 
After  passing  La  Boule  and  the  Profiles,  34  M.  above  Tadousac,  the 
majestic  * Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity  rise  on  the  S.  to  the  height 
of  2,000  ft.  each,  guarding  the  entrance  to  Trinity  Bay.  The  water  at 
the  base  of  these  peaks  is  over  600  fathoms  deep. 

“ Suddenly  the  boat  rounded  the  corner  of  the  three  steps,  each  500  ft  high  in 
which  Cape  Eternity  climbs  from  the  river,  arid  crept  in  under  the  naked  side’  of 
the  awful  cliff.  It  is  sheer  rock,  springing  from  the  black  water  and  stretching 
upward  with  a weary,  effort-like  aspect,  in  long  impulses  of  stone ’marked  by  deep 
seams  from  space  to  space,  till,  1,500  ft.  in  air,  its  vast  brow  beetles  forward  and 

frowns  with  a scattering  fringe  of  pines The  rock  fully  justifies  its  attributive 

height  to  the  eye,  which  follows  the  upward  rush  of  the  mighty  acclivity  steep 
after  steep,  till  it  wins  the  cloud-capt  summit,  when  the  measureless  mass ’seems 
to  swing  and  sway  overhead,  and  the  nerves  tremble  with  the  same  terror  that 
besets  him  who  looks  downward  from  the  verge  of  a lofty  precipice.  It  is  wholly 
b^ern  ; 110  I°ucb  of  beauty  relieves  the  austere  majesty  of  that  presence. 
At  the  foot  ol  Cape  Eternity  the  water  is  of  unknown  depth,  and  it  spreads,  a 
black  expanse,  in  the  rounding  hollow  of  shores  of  unimaginable  wildness  and 
desolation,  and  issues  again  in  its  river’s  course  around  the  base  of  Cape  Trinity. 
This  is  yet  loftier  than  the  sister  cliff,  but  it  slopes  gently  backward  from  the 
stream,  and  from  foot  to  crest  it  is  heavily  clothed  with  a forest  of  pines.  The 
woods  that  hitherto  have  shagged  the  hills  with  a stunted  and  meagre  growth, 
showing  long  stretches  scarred  by  fire,  now  assume  a stately  size,  and  assemble 
themselves  compactly  upon  the  side  of  the  mountain,  setting  their  serried  stems 
one  rank  above  another,  till  the  summit  is  crowned  with  the  mass  of  their  dark 
green  plumes,  dense  and  soft  and  beautiful ; so  that  the  spirit,  perturbed  by  the 
spectacle  of  the  other  cliff,  is  calmed  and  assuaged  by  the  serene,  grandeur  of  this.” 
— From  W.  D.  Howells’s  A Chance  Acquaintance. 

Statue  Point  and  Les  Tableaux  are  next  passed,  and  then  Ha  Ha  Ray 
is  reached,  with  its  two  small  villages,  10-12  M.  above  which  is 
Chicoutimi , at  the  head  of  ship  navigation.  80  M.  farther  N.,  in  the 
bosom  of  a vast  and  desolate  wilderness,  is  the  reservoir  of  the  Saguenay, 
the  great  Lake  of  St.  John. 

From  Quebec  to  Springfield,  Hartford,  New  Haven,  and  New  York, 
see  Route  24.  From  Quebec  to  Boston,  by  Lake  Memphremagog,  White 
River  Junction,  and  Concord,  see  Routes  24  and  29  ; to  Boston,  by  way  of 
Gorham,  Portland,  and  the  sea-shore,  see  Routes  40  and  37 ; or  by  way  of 
Gorham,  Portland,  and  Lawrence,  see  Routes  40  and  38. 


TNDEX 


Abington,  Mas??.  51. 
Acton,  Mass.  126. 

Adams,  Mt.  236. 

Addison,  Vt.  184. 
Adirondacks,  Routes  to 
the  357,  364,  365,  367. 
Agamenticus,  Mt.  267. 
Albany  Basins,  Me.  288. 
Albany,  N.  Y.  348,  142. 

A1  burgh  Springs,  Vt.  207. 
Alfred,  Me.  213. 

Alton  Bay,  N.  H.  218,  282. 
Amherst,  Mass.  100,  162. 
Amherst,  N.  H.  192. 
Ammonoosuc  Falls  233. 
Andover,  Mass.  276. 
i Annandale,  N.  Y.  347. 
Annisquam,  Mass.  247. 
Anson,  Me.  294. 

I Ansonia,  Conn.  111. 
Anthony’s  Nose  344,  360. 
Arlington,  Vt.  185. 
Arrowsic,  Me.  297. 
i Arthabaska,  Can.  290. 

Arthur’s  Seat,  Mass.  178. 

! Artists’  Falls,  N.  H.  225. 

Artists’  Ledge,  N.  H.  225. 

; Ascutney,  Mt.  166. 
i Ashburnham,  Mass.  177. 
Ashford,  Conn.  118. 
Ashland,  N.  H.  210. 

Ashley  Falls,  Mass.  115. 
Assowamsett  Pond  54. 
Athens,  N.  Y.  348. 
Attleborough,  Mass.  62. 

S Auburn,  Me.  308. 

! Augusta,  Me.  311. 

Au  Sable  Chasm  367. 

Avon,  Conn.  109. 

I Ayer  June.,  Mass.  176. 
Aylmer  Lake,  Can.  290. 

Bald  Head  Cliff,  Me.  267- 
Bald  Mt.,  N.  H.  239. 
Baldwin,  Me.  285. 
Ballardvale,  Mass.  276. 
Ballston  Spa,  N.  Y.  350. 

I Bangor,  Me.  315,  318. 
Bantam  Lake,  Conn.  112. 


Bar  Harbor,  Me.  303,  304. 
Barnet,  Vt.  169. 

Barton,  Vt.  171. 

Bash  Bish  Falls  122,  153. 
Basin,  the  240. 

Bath,  Me.  297. 

Bath,  N.  H.  211. 

Bay,  Belfast  317. 

Boston  20. 

Burlington  365. 
Buzzard’s  58,  92. 

Casco  274. 

Frenchman’s  304. 

Fundy  321. 

Ha  Ha  3S6. 

Missisquoi  207. 
Narragansett  65. 
Narraguagus  307. 

New  York  48,  329. 
Passarnaquoddy  322. 
Penobscot  302,  316. 

St.  Albans  205. 

Bay  View,  Mass.  247. 
Bearcamp,  N.  H.  220. 
Becket,  Mass.  143. 
Beecher’s  Falls,  N,  H.  232. 
Beech  Mt.,  Me.  306. 
Belehertown,  Mass.  100. 
Belfast,  Me.  317. 

Belgrade,  Me.  309. 

Bellows  Falls,  Vt.  164,  181. 
Belceil  Mt.,  Can.  208. 
Bennington,  Vt.  186. 
Berkshire  Hills  142. 
Berkshire  Soda  Springs, 
Mass.  152. 

Berlin,  Conn.  140. 

Berlin  Falls,  N.  H.  229. 
Bernardston,  Mass.  164. 
Berry  Pond,  Mass.  145. 
Bethel,  Me.  288. 

Bethel,  Vt.  200. 

Bethlehem,  N.  H.  234. 
Beverly,  Mass.  245,  256. 
Biddeford,  Me.  269,  283. 
Billerica,  Mass.  189. 
Billington  Sea  53. 
Birmingham,  Conn.  111. 
Black  River  Falls  165,  181. 


Black  Rock,  Conn.  85. 
Blackstone,  Mass.  93. 
Blackwell’s  Id.,  N.  Y.  47. 
Block  Id.,  R.  I.  71. 

Bloody  Brook,  Mass.  162. 
Blue  Hill,  Mass.  62. 

Blue  Hill,  Me.  303. 

Boar’s  Head,  N.  H.  262. 
Bolton  Falls,  Vt,  204. 
Bolton  Notch,  Conn.  94. 
Bolton,  N.  Y.  359. 

Boone  Id.,  Me.  267. 
Boothbay,  Me.  299. 
Boscavcen,  N.  H.  197. 
Boston,  Mass.  5. 
Athenseum  17 
Cathedral  20. 

Christ  Church  10. 

City  Hall  11. 

Common  15. 

Copp’s  Hill  9. 

Custom  House  10. 
Faneuil  Hall  JO. 

First  Church  16. 
Horticultural  Hall  13. 
Hospital  19. 

King’s  Chapel  13. 
Masonic  Temple  12. 
Museum  15. 

Music  Hall  13. 

Natural  History  Build- 
ing 16. 

New  Post-Office  12. 

Odd  Fellows  Hall  19. 
Old  South  Church  11. 
Old  State  House  10. 
Public  Gardens  16. 
Public  Library  12. 

State  House  17. 

U.  S.  Court  House  13. 
Boston  Light  23. 
Boterberg,  N.  Y.  345. 
Bowerbank,  Me.  295. 
Bowdoin  College  310. 
Boxford,  Mass.  276. 
Bradford,  Mass.  280. 
Bradford,  N.  H.  196. 
Braintree,  Mass.  38. 
Braintree,  Vt.  200. 


388 


INDEX. 


Brandon,  Vt.  182. 
Branford,  Conn.  76. 
Brattleboro’,  Vt.  103. 
Breakneck  Hill  345. 
Brewster,  Mass.  56. 
Bridgeport,  Conn.  85,  111. 
Bridgewater,  Mass.  54. 
Bridgton,  Me.  285. 
Bridport,  Vt.  184. 
Brighton,  Mass.  35,  124. 
Brim  field,  Mass.  130. 
Bristol,  Me.  299. 

Bristol,  N.  H.  198. 

Bristol,  R.  I.  66. 

Bristol,  Vt.  184. 

Brookfield,  Conn.  114. 
Brookfield,  Mass.  130. 
Brookline,  Mass.  35. 
Brooklyn,  Conn.  118. 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  48,  339. 
City  Hall,  339. 

Cypress  Hills  340. 
Greenwood  340. 

Navy  Yard  339. 

Prospect  Park  339. 
Brownfield,  Me.  285. 
Brown  University  64. 
Brunswick,  Me.  297,  309. 
Bryant’s  Pond,  Me.  288. 
Buckland,  Mass.  179. 
Bucksport,  Me.  318. 
Bunker  Hill,  25. 
Burlington,  Vt.  184,  365. 
Burnham,  Me.  314. 
Burnside,  Conn.  94. 
Buttermilk  Falls,  N.Y.  344. 
Buxton,  Me.  213. 

Buzzards  Bay  58,  92. 

Cacouna,  Can.  385. 

Calais,  Me.  322. 

Caldwell,  N.  Y.  357. 
Cambridge,  Mass.  29. 
Camden,  Me.  317. 

Camel’s  HumpMt.,  Vt.  203. 
Camel’s  Rump  Mt.,Me.289. 
Campo  Bello  Id.,  N.  B.  322. 
Campton,  N.  H.  242. 
Canaan,  Conn.  115. 

Canaan,  N.  H.  198. 

Canton,  Mass.  62. 

Canton,  Me.  287. 

Cap  Rouge,  Can.  383. 

Cap  Tourmente,  Can.  3S5. 
Cape  Ann,  245. 

Cod  54. 

Elizabeth,  Me.  273. 
Eternity,  Can.  386. 
Neddick,  Me.  267. 
Porpoise,  Me.  268. 
Rosier,  Me.  303. 

Trinity,  Can.  386. 
Carolina,  R.  I.  70. 


Casco  Bay  274. 

Castine,  Me.  302,  317. 
Castle  Id.,  Mass.  22. 
Castleton,  Vt.  187. 
Cathedral  Rock  224. 
Catskill  Mts.,  N.  Y.  347. 
Cave,  Arlington  185. 
Clarendon  182. 

Dorset  185. 

Salisbury  123. 

Cedarmere,  L.  I.  340. 
Centre  Harbor,  N.  H.  216. 
Chabonakongkomon  Lake 
104. 

Chambly,  Can.  208. 
Champlain,  Lake  361. 
Charlemont,  Mass.  179. 
Charlesbourg,  Can.  384. 
Charles  Id.,  Conn.  84. 
Charlestown,  Mass.  24. 
Charlestown,  N.  H.  165. 
Chateau  Bigot,  Can.  384. 
Chateau  Richer,  Can.  385. 
Chatham,  N.  Y.  142. 
Chaudiere  Falls  383. 
Chelsea,  Mass.  17,  249. 
Cheshire,  Conn.  109. 
Cheshire,  Mass.  153. 
Chester,  Vt.  181. 
Chesterfield,  N.  H.  103, 180. 
Chestnut  Hill,  Mass.  35. 
Chesuncook  Lake,  296. 
Chicopee,  Mass.  157. 
Chicoutimi,  Can.  386. 
China,  Me.  313. 

Chocorua,  Mt.  214,  215,  221. 
Claremont,  N.  II.  197. 
Clarendon  Springs  182, 187. 
Clear  Stream  Meadows  244. 
Clermont,  N.  Y.  347. 
Clinton,  Mass.  105,  126. 
Clinton,  Mt.  235. 

Cohasset,  Mass.  48. 

Cohoes,  N.  Y.  350. 
Colchester,  Vt.  204. 

Cold  Spring,  N.  Y.  345. 
Colebrook,  N.  H.  243,  289. 
Coleraine  Gorge  178. 
Collinsville,  Conn.  109. 
Columbia  Springs  348. 
Concord,  Mass.  28. 
Concord,  N.  H.  194. 

Coney  Id.,  N.  Y.  340. 
Connecticut  Lake  245. 
Contoocook  Lake  180. 
Conway,  N.  H.  214. 

Conway  June.,  Me.  26S. 
Copple  Crown  Mt.  218. 
Cornwall,  Conn.  115. 

Cotuit  Port,  Mass.  55. 
Cranston,  R.  I.  65. 
Crawford  House  230,  235. 
Croton  River,  N.  Y.  343. 


Crown  Point,  N.  Y.  183, 
364. 

Croydon,  N.  H.  197. 
Crystal  Cascade,  N.  H.  227. 
Crystal  Lake,  Vt.  171. 
Cummington,  Mass.  110. 
Cushing’s  Id.,  Me.  274. 
Cuttyhunk  Id.,  Mass.  92. 

Dalton,  Mass.  144. 

Dalton,  N.  H.  212. 
Damariscotta,  Me.  299. 
i Danbury,  Conn.  116. 
Danielsonville,  Conn.  118. 
Danville,  Can.  290. 
Danville  June.,  Me.  287. 
Dartmouth  College  166. 
Dartmouth,  Mass.  92. 
Daysville,  Conn.  118. 
Debec,  N.  B.  323. 

Dedham,  Mass.  117. 
Deerfield  Gorge  17S. 
Deerfield,  Mass.  163. 

Deer  Id.,  Mass.  20. 

Deer  Isle,  Me.  303. 
Denmark,  Me.  285. 

Derby,  Conn.  111. 

Derry,  N.  H.  279. 

Devil’s  Dance  Chamber  346. 
Dexter,  Me.  295. 

Diamond  Id.,  Me.  274. 
Diamond  Id.,  N.  H.  217. 
Diamond  Id.,  N.  Y.  35S. 
Dighton,  Mass.  39. 

Dix  Id.,  Me.  301,  332. 
Dixville  Notch,  N.  H.  243. 
Dobbs’  Ferry,  N.  Y.  342. 
Dome  Id.,  N.  Y.  359. 
Dorchester,  Mass.  36. 
Double  Beach,  Conn.  77. 
Dover,  Me.  295. 

Dover,  N.  H.  281. 

Duck  Id.,  N.  H.  266. 
Dunderberg,  N.  Y.  343. 
Dunmore  Lake,  Vt.  183. 
Durham,  N.  H.  281. 
Duxbury,  Mass.  50. 

Eagle  Cliff,  N.  H.  239. 
Eagle  Lake,  Me.  305. 

E.  Andover,  N.  H.  19S. 

E.  Hartford,  Conn.  94. 

E.  Haven,  Conn.  77. 

E.  Rock,  Conn.  83. 

Eastern  Townships,  Can. 
174. 

Eastliam,  Mass.  56. 
Easthampton,  Mass.  110. 
Eastport,  Me.  322. 

Echo  Lakes,  225,  238. 
Edgartown,  Mass.  60. 
Egremont,  Mass.  153. 

Elgin  Spring,  Vt.  184. 


Elliot,  Me.  208. 

Ellsworth,  Me.  318. 
Enfield,  Conn.  133. 

Enfield,  N.  II.  108. 
Englewood,  N.  J.  341. 
Errol,  N.  H.  244,  280. 
Essex  June.,  Vt.  204. 

Essex,  Mass.  257. 

E-ssex,  N.  Y.  365. 

Everett,  Mass.  240. 

Exeter,  N.  H.  2S0. 

Fabyan  House,  N.  H.  233, 

234. 

Fairfax,  Vt.  204. 

Fairfield,  Conn.  86. 
Fairhaven,  Conn.  83. 
Fairhaven,  Mass.  91. 
Fairhaven,  Vt.  188. 

Fairlee,  Vt.  168. 

Fall  River,  Mass.  39. 

Falls,  Artists’  225. 

Falls  Village,  Conn.  115. 
Bash  Bish  122,  153. 
Berlin  229. 

Black  River  165,  181. 
Bolton  204. 

Chaudiere  3S3. 

15  Mile  169. 

Foxwell’s  2S3. 
Georgeanna  241. 

Gibbs’s  232. 

Glen  Ellis  227. 

Glens  356. 

Goodrich  225. 

Grand  323,  385. 

Grand  Mer~  374. 
Housatonie  115. 

Jackson  226. 

Livermore  210. 

Lower  Am  monoosuc  233. 
Montmorenci  384. 
Norton’s  122. 

Rumford  288. 

Saco  269. 

Screw  Auger  289. 
Shawanegan  374. 

Ste.  Anne  384. 

St.  Fereol385. 

Sutherland  182. 
Thompson’s  226. 

Turner’s  178. 

Yantic  96. 

Falmouth,  Mass.  58. 
Farmington,  Conn.  109. 
Farmington,  Me.  291. 
Farmington,  N.  H.  282. 
Ferrisburgh,  Vt.  184. 
Fisher’s  Id.,  N.  Y.  73. 
Fisherville,  N.  H.  107. 
Fishkill-on-the-Hudson  345 
Fitchburg,  Mass.  176. 
Fitzwilliam,  N.  H.  180. 


INDEX. 


Florence,  Mass.  110,  160. 
Flume,  the,  N.  H.  240. 
Flume,  the,  Vt.  171. 
Flushing,  L.  I.  47,  340. 
Poorest  Hills,  35. 

Fort  Ann,  N.  Y.  356. 
Clinton,  N.  Y.  344. 
Edward,  N.  Y.  355. 
Fairfield,  Me.  323 
Halifax,  Me.  314. 

Hill,  Conn.  72. 

Kent,  Me.  324. 

Lee,  N.  Y.  341. 
Massachusetts  156. 
Montgomery  (new)  207. 
Montgomery  (old)  344. 
Point,  Me.  317. 

Preble,  Me.  274. 
Ticonderoga  183,  362. 
Warren,  Mass.  23. 
Washington,  N.  Y.  341. 
William  Henry  356. 
Wooster,  Conn.  83. 
14-Mile  Id.,  N.  Y.  359. 
Foxcroft,  Me.  205. 
Framingham,  Mass.  126. 
Francestown,  N.  H.  192. 
Franconia  Mts.  238. 
Franklin,  Mass.  117. 
Franklin,  Mt.  236. 
Franklin,  N.  H.  197. 
Fredericton,  N.  B.  319. 
Freeport,  Me.  309. 

Fresh  Pond,  Mass.  34. 
Fryeburg,  Me.  285. 

Gagetown,  N.  B.  320. 
Gardiner,  Me.  311. 

Gardner,  Mass.  177. 

Garnet  Pools,  N.  H.  227. 
Gaspee  Point,  R.  I.  65. 

Gay  Head,  Mass.  60. 
Georgeanna  Falls,  241. 
George,  Lake  357. 
Georgetown,  Mass.  276. 
Georgetown,  Me.  297. 
Georgeville,  Can.  173. 
Georgia,  Vt.  204. 

Giant’s  Grave,  N.  PI.  233. 
Gibbs’  Falls,  N.  H.  232. 
Gilead,  Me.  228,  289. 
Glenburn,  Me.  316. 

Glen  Ellis  Falls,  N.  H.  227. 
Glen  House,  N.  H.  226,  235. 
Glens  Falls,  N.  Y.  353. 
Gloucester,  Mass.  245. 
Goodrich  Falls,  N.  H.  225. 
Gorham,  Me.  213. 

Gorham,  N.  H.  227,  280. 
Governor’s  Id.,  Mass  20. 
Governor’s  Id.,N.Y.  329,  48. 
Grafton,  Mass.  126. 
Grafton,  N.  H.  198. 


389 


Granbv,  Conn.  109. 

Grand  Falls,  N.  B.  323,  385. 
Grand  Menan  Id.  322. 
Grand  Schoodic  Lake  319. 
Granville,  Vt.  200. 

Great  Barrington  152. 
Great  Falls,  N.  H.  213. 
Great  Gulf,  N.  H.  235. 
Great  Head,  Me.  304. 
Greenfield  Hill,  Conn.  86. 
Greenfield,  Mass.  177. 
Greenland,  N.  H.  263. 
Green  Mt.,  Me.  305. 

Green  Mts.,  Vt.  182,  199. 
Greenville,  Me.  296. 
Greenwich,  Conn.  89. 
Greenwich,  R.  I.  67. 
Greylock,  Mass.  153. 
Groton,  Conn.  72,  73. 
Groton,  Mass.  105. 

Groton,  Vt.  169. 

Grout’s  Corner,  Mass.  177. 
Grove  Hall,  Mass.  36. 
Guilford,  Conn.  76. 

Haddam,  Conn.  106. 
Hadley,  Mass.  161. 

Hague,  N.  Y.  360. 

Ha  Ha  Bay,  Can.  386. 
Haley’s  Id.,  Me.  266. 
Hallowell,  Me.  311. 
Hamden,  Conn „ 108. 
Hamilton,  Mass.  257. 
Hampden,  Me.  318. 
Hampton,  N.  H.  262. 
Beach  262. 

Falls  261. 

Hanover,  N.  H.  166. 

Harps  well,  Me.  275. 
Harrison,  Me.  285. 
Hartford,  Conn.  134. 

" Athemeum  137. 

Cedar  Grove  139. 
Churches  135. 

Old  State  House  13-3. 
State  House  135. 
Harvard,  Mass.  105. 
Harvard  University  29. 
Harwich,  Mass.  56. 
Hastings-on- Hudson  342. 
Hatfield,  Mass.  162. 
Haverhill,  Mass.  279. 
Haverhill,  N.  H.  211. 
Haverstraw,  N.  Y.  343. 
Hazardville,  Conn.  133. 
Hebron,  N.  H.  198. 

Hell  Gate,  N.  Y.  47. 
Highgate  Springs,  Vt.  207. 
Highland  Light  57. 
Highlands,  the  343. 
Hillsboro  Bridge  193. 
Hiugham,  Mass.  24. 
Hinsdale,  Mass.  143. 


390 


Hinsdale,  N.  H 1C  2. 
Hiram,  Me.  285. 

Hoboken,  N.  J.  341. 
Holbrook,  Mass.  54. 
Holderness,  N.  H.  210. 
Hollis,  N.  H.  106. 

Holmes’  Hole,  Mass.  59,  60. 
Holyoke,  Mass.  158. 
ITookset,  N.  H.  194. 
Hoosac  Tunnel  154,  179. 
Hopper,  the  157. 

Hough’s  Neck,  Mass.  37. 
Houlton,  Me.  323. 
Hubbardton,  Vt.  187. 
Hudson,  N.  Y.  348. 

Hull,  Mass.  23. 

Hyannis,  Mass.  56. 

Hyde  Park,  N.  Y.  346. 

Indian  Harbor,  Conn.  89. 
Lorette,  Can.  384. 

Neck,  Conn.  77. 

Rock,  Me.  292. 

Ingleside,  Mass.  158. 

Iona  Id.,  N.  Y.  344. 
Ipswich,  Mass.  257. 
Irasburgh,  Vt.  171. 
Irvington,  N.  Y.  342. 
Island  Pond,  Vt.  290. 
Island,  Blackwell’s  47. 
Block  71. 

Boone  267. 

Brigadier  317- 
Campo  Bello  322. 

Castle  22. 

Charles,  Conn.  84. 
Conanicut  46. 

Coney  340. 

Constitution  345. 
Continental  265. 

Crane  3S5. 

Cruger’s  347. 

Cushing’s  274. 

Cutty  hunk  92. 

Deer  20. 

Diamond,  Me.  274. 
Diamond,  N.  H.  217. 
Diamond,  N.  Y.  358. 
Dome,  N.  Y.  359. 
Duston’s  197. 

Fisher’s  73. 

Goat  46. 

Goose  385. 

Grand  Menan  322. 
Governor’s,  Mass.  20. 
Governor’s,  N.  H.  215. 
Governor’s,  N.  Y.  329. 
Grosse  385. 

Iona  344. 

Long,  Mass.  23. 

Long,  N.  H.  217. 

Long,  N.  Y.  339. 

Lowell  256. 


INDEX. 


Martha’s  Vineyard  59. 
Monliegan  316. 

Mount  Desert  303. 
Mystic  72. 

Nantucket  60. 

Naushon  92. 

Neutral  322. 

No  Man’s  Land  59. 
Orr’s  297. 

Peak’s,  Me.  274. 
Penequeese  92. 

Plum,  Mass.  260. 
Prudence  66. 
Rainsford’s  23. 

Recluse  359. 

Rhode  46. 

Richmond  270. 

Stage  268. 

Staten  340. 

Thaeher’s  247. 
Thompson’s  22. 
Valcour,  Vt.  367. 
Vinalhaven  316. 

Ward’s  339. 

Wetmore  317. 

Elizabeth  92. 

St.  George’s  301. 
Thimble  76. 

Isle  aux  Coudres  385. 
Deer,  Me.  303. 

Grand,  Vt.  367. 
of  Orleans  385. 

St.  Helens’  370. 

Isles  of  Shoals  265. 

Ivy  Mt.,  Conn.  115 

Jackson,  N.  H.  225. 
Jaffrey,  N.  H.  179. 
Jamaica,  L.  I.  340. 
Jamaica  Plain,  Mass.  35. 
Jay,  Me.  291. 

Jefferson  Hill,  N.  H.  229. 
Jefferson,  Mt.  236. 
Jonesport,  Me.  307. 
Jordan’s  Pond,  Me.  304. 

Katahdin,  Mt.,  Me.  297. 
Kearsarge,  Mt.  198. 
Keene,  N.  H.  180. 
Kennebunk,  Me.  268. 
Kennebunkport  268. 
Kent,  Conn.  114. 
Kiarsarge,  Mt.  224. 
Killingly,  Conn.  11S. 
Killington  Peak,  Vt.  182. 
Killing-worth,  Conn.  76. 
Kinderhook,  N.  Y.  348. 
Kineo  Mt.,  Me.  296. 
Kingfield,  Me.  292. 
Kingston,  N.  Y.  347. 
Kingston,  R.  I.  67. 
Kittery,  Me.  265. 
Knowlton’s  Landing  173. 


Lachine  Rapids  372. 
Laconia,  N.  H.  209. 
Lafayette,  Mt.  239. 

Lake  Ashley,  Mass.  145. 
Aylmer,  Can.  290 
Beauport,  Can.  384. 
Bomaseen,  Vt.  187. 
Chabonakongkomon  104. 
Champlain  361. 
Chesuncook,  Me.  296. 
China,  Me.  313. 
Contoocook,  N.  H.  180. 
Crystal,  Vt.  171. 
Dunmore,  Vt.  183. 

Echo  (Conway)  225. 
Echo  (Franconia)  238. 
Enfield,  N.  H.  198. 
George,  N.  Y.  357. 

Grand  Schoodic  319. 
Heart,  N.  H.  198. 

Long,  Conn.  113. 

Long,  Me.  285. 

Luzerne,  N.  Y.  355. 
Mahkeenac,  Mass.  150. 
Massabesic,  N.  H.  193. 
Massawippi,  Can.  174. 
Mempliremagog  171. 
Merrymeeting  219. 
Moosehead  294,  295 
Newfound,  N.  H.  198. 
of  Seven  Isles  323. 
Onota,  Mass.  145. 
Ossipee,.  N.  H.  220. 
Pontoosuc,  Mass.  145. 
Profile,  N.  H.  239. 
Quinsigamond  126. 
Rockland,  N.  Y.  343. 
Saltonstall,  Conn.  77. 

St.  Catharine,  Vt.  18S. 
St.  Charles,  Can.  384. 

St.  Joachin,  Can.  385. 
St.  John,  Can.  386. 

St.  Peter  374. 

Sebago,  Me.  284. 
Sinnipink,  N.  Y.  344. 
Spectacle  (Ponds)  114. 
Squam,  N.  H.  216,  *217. 
Sunapee,  N.  H.  196. 
Twin,  Conn.  123. 
Umbagog  244,  289. 
Village,  N.  II.  209. 
Waukawan  209. 

Wenham  256. 
Willoughby,  Vt.  170. 
Winnepesaukee  215,  82. 
Lakeville,  Conn.  122. 
Lakeville,  Mass.  54. 
Lancaster,  Mass.  105. 
Lancaster,  N.  H.  212. 
Lanesboro,  Mass.  153. 
Lanesville,  Mass.  247. 
Lawrence,  Mass.  278. 

Lead  Mine  Bridge  22S. 


INDEX. 


391 


Lebanon,  Conn.  98. 
Lebanon,  N.  H.  199. 
Ledges,  the  N.  H.  224. 
Leeds,  Me.  291. 

Lee,  Mass.  148. 

Leeds,  Mass.  110. 
Lennoxville,  Can.  174,  290. 
Lenox,  Mass.  147. 

Leverett,  Mass.  102. 
Lewiston,  Me.  308. 
Lexington,  Mass.  28. 
Leyden  Gorge  178. 

Lincoln,  Mass.  175. 

Lisbon  Falls,  Me.  291. 
Litchfield,  Conn.  112. 
Littleton,  N.  H.  211. 
Livermore  Falls,  N.  H.  210. 
Livermore,  Me.  291. 
Londonderry,  N.  II.  279. 
Long  Branch,  N.  J.  340. 
Long  Id.,  Can.  173. 

Long  Id.,  Mass.  23. 

Long  Id.,  N.  H.  217. 

Long  Id.,  N.  Y.  339. 

Long  Lake,  Conn.  113. 
Long  Lake,  Me.  285. 
Longmeadow,  Mass.  133. 
Longueuil,  Can.  373. 
Lonsdale,  R.  I.  93. 

Lovell,  Me.  287. 

Lowell  Id  , Mass.  256. 
Lowell,  Mass.  189. 

Ludlow,  Vt.  181. 
Lunenburg,  Yt.  212. 

Lyme,  Conn.  75. 

Lyme,  N.  H.  167. 
Lyndeborougli,  N.  H.  192. 
Lyndon,  Vt.  170. 

Lynn,  Mass.  250. 

Machias,  Me.  307. 
Madawaska,  Me.  324. 
Madison,  Mt.  236. 

Madrid,  Me.  292. 
Magalloway  River  244,  289. 
Magnolia,  Mass.  247. 
Magog,  Can.  173. 

Maine  Forest,  the  323. 
Malbaie,  Can.  385. 

Malden,  Mass.  275. 

Mallet’s  Bay,  Vt.  204. 
Mamaroneek,  N.  Y.  90. 
Manchester,  Conn.  94. 
Manchester,  Mass.  245. 
Manchester,  N.  H.  193. 
Manchester,  Vt.  185. 
Manliattanville,  N.  Y.  341. 
Mansfield,  Conn.  99. 
Mansfield,  Mt.,  Vt.  203. 
Marblehead,  Mass.  255, 
Marblehead  Neck,  256. 
Marion,  Mass.  54. 

Marlboro,  Mass.  126. 


Marshfield,  Mass.  49. 
Marshpee,  Mass.  56. 
Martha’s  Vineyard  59. 
Mashapaug  Lake  118. 
Mattapoisett,  Mass.  54. 
Mattawamkeag,  Me.  319. 
McAdam  June.,  N.  B.  319. 
Mclndoes  Falls,  Vt.  169. 
Mechanic  Falls,  Me.  287. 
Medfield,  Mass.  120. 
Medford,  Mass.  275. 
Megunticook  Mts.  317. 
Melrose,  Mass.  275. 
Meredith,  N.  II.  209. 
Meriden,  Conn.  140. 
Merrymeeting  Lake  219. 
Methuen,  Mass,  279. 
Middleboro,  Mass.  54. 
Middlebury,  Vt.  183. 
Middlesex,  Mass.  191. 
Middlesex,  Vt.  202. 
Middletown,  Conn.  106. 
Middletown  Springs,  Vt. 
188. 

Milan,  N.  H.  289. 

Milford,  Conn.  84. 

Milford,  Me.  319. 

Milford,  N.  H.  192. 
Millerton,  N.  Y.  121. 
Milton,  N.  H.  213. 

Milton,  Vt.  204. 

Minot’s  Ledge,  Mass.  49. 
Missisquoi  Springs  206. 
Mohegan,  Conn.  98. 
Monadnock  Mt.,  N.  H.  179. 
Monadnock  Mt.,  Vt.  243. 
Monhegan  Id.,  Me.  316. 
Monkton,  Vt.  184. 

Monroe  Mt.  236. 

Monson,  Me.  99. 

Monson,  Mass.  295. 
Montague,  Mass.  177. 
Montmorenci  Falls  384. 
Montpelier,  Vt.  200. 
Montreal,  Can.  291,  368. 
Around  the  Mt.  372. 
Bonsecours  Market  370. 
Champ  de  Mars  370. 
Christ  Church  Cathedral 
371. 

Gesii,  Church  of  the  371. 
Gray  Nunnery  372. 
Lachine  Rapids  372. 
McGill  College  371. 

Notre  Dame  369. 

St.  George  372. 

St.  Patrick  371. 

Victoria  Bridge  373. 
Victoria  Square  369. 
Monument  Mt.,  Mass.  151. 
Moose  Chasm,  Me.  289. 
Moosehead  Lake  294,  296. 
Moosetocmaguntic  292. 


Moosilauke  Mt.,  N.  H.  211. 
Moriah,  Mt.,  N.  H.  228. 
Morris,  Conn.  113. 
Moultonboro,  N.  H.  219. 
Mount  Adams,  N.  H.  236. 
iEolus,  Vt.  186. 
Agamenticus,  Me.  267. 
Annanance,  Vt.  170. 
Anthony,  Vt.  186. 
Ascutney,  Vt.  166. 
Auburn  Cemetery  33. 
Bald,  N.  H.  239. 
Belknap,  N.  Ii.  209,  219. 
Carmel,  Conn.  108. 
Chocorua,  N.  H.  214,  221, 
Clinton,  N.  II.  235. 
Cro’-Nest,  N.  Y.  345. 
Desert,  Me.  303. 
Dunderberg,  N.  Y.  343. 
Elephantis,  Can.  173. 
Equinox,  Vt.  185. 
Everett,  Mass.  152. 
Franklin,  N.  H.  236. 
Greylock,  Mass.  153. 
Hayes,  N.  H.  228. 
Holyoke,  Mass.  160. 
Hopkins  157. 

Hope,  R.  I.  66. 

Hor,  Vt..l70. 
Independence,  Vt.  363. 
Jefferson  236. 

Katahdin,  Me.  297,  319. 
Kearsarge,  N.  H.  198. 
Kiarsarge,  N.  H.  224. 
Kilburn  165. 

Kineo  296. 

Lafayette,  N.  H.  239. 
Madison  236. 

Major,  N.  H.  218. 
Mansfield,  Vt.  203. 
Megunticook,  Me.  317. 
Monadnock,  N.  H.  179. 
Monadnock,  Vt.  243. 
Monroe  236.  i 

Monument,  Mass.  151. 
Moosilauke,  N.  H.  211. 
Moriah,  N.  H.  228. 
Nonotuck,  Mass.  160. 
Ossipee,  N.  H.  219,  220. 
Owl’s  Head,  Can.  172. 
Owl’s  Head,  N.  H.  211. 
Passaconaway  220. 
Pinnacle,  Can.  174. 
Pinnacle,  N.  H.  194. 
Pleasant,  Me.  285. 
Pleasant,  N.  H.  236. 
Profile,  N.  H.  239. 
Prospect,  Conn.  115. 
Prospect,  N.  H.  210. 
Pulaski,  Vt.  168. 

Ragged,  N.  H.  198. 

Riga,  Conn.  121. 
Rouillard,  Can.  290. 


392 


INDEX. 


Ste.  Anne,  Can.  385. 

St.  Vincent,  N.  Y.  341. 
Sugar  Loaf,  Mass.  162. 
Surprise,  N.  H.  228. 
Tabor,  Vt.  185. 

Toby,  Mass.  102. 

Tom,  Conn.  113. 

Tom,  Mass.  160. 

Tom,  Vt.  199. 

Vernon,  N.  H.  192. 
Wantastiquet  103. 
Washington,  Mass.  152. 
Washington,  N.  H.  234. 
Ascent  from  Craw- 
ford’s 235. 

Ascent  from  Gorham 
236. 

Carriage-road  235. 
Railway  234. 

View  237. 

Whiteface,  N.  H.  220. 
Willard,  N.  H.  231. 
Mountains,  Adirondack  365 
Allagash  323. 

Berkshire  142. 

Catskill  347. 

Dixville  243. 

Franconia  238. 

Green  182 -186, 199 -204. 
Helderberg  348. 
Highlands  343,  344. 
Laurentian  378,  385. 
Lunenburg  212. 
Magalloway  245. 
Megunticook  317. 

Pilot  212. 

Sandwich  220. 
Shawangunk  346. 

White  221. 

Murray  Bay,  Can.  385. 
Myricks,  Mass.  54. 

Mystic,  Conn.  72. 

Mystic  Pond  189. 

Nahant,  Mass.  21. 
Nantasket  Beach  23. 
Nantucket  60. 

Naples,  Me.  284. 
Narragansett  Bay  65. 
Narragansett  Fort  69. 
Narragansett  Pier  68. 
Nashua,  N.  H.  191. 

Natick,  Mass.  124. 

Natural  Bridge  154. 
Naugatuck,  Conn.  111. 
Naushon  Id.  92. 

Newark,  Vt.  171. 

New  Bedford,  Mass.  90. 
New  Britain,  Conn.  95. 
Newburg,  N.  Y.  345. 
Newbury,  Vt.  168. 
Newburyport,  Mass.  258. 
Newcastle,  Me.  299. 


Newfound  Lake  198. 

New  Gloucester,  Me.  287. 
New  Hartford,  Conn.  120. 
New  Haven,  Conn.  77,  141. 
Art  Gallery  81. 

Cemetery  78. 

East  Rock  83. 

Public  Green  79. 

Savin  Rock  83. 

State  House  80. 

West  Rock  83. 

Yale  College  80. 

New  Haven,  Vt.  184. 

New  Lebanon  Springs  146. 
New  London,  Conn.  72. 
Newmarket,  N.  H.  267,  281. 
New  Marlboro,  Mass.  252. 
New  Milford,  Conn.  114. 
Newport,  Me.  314. 
Newport,  R.  I.  40,  66. 
Bellevue  Ave.  44. 

First  Beach  45. 

Fort  Adams  46. 

Islands,  the  46. 

Lawton’s  Valley  44. 
Purgatory  45. 

Redwood  Library  43. 
Round  Tower  43. 

State  House  42. 
Newport,  Vt.  171. 

New  Rochelle,  N.  Y.  90. 
Newton,  Mass.  35, 120,  124. 
Newtown,  Conn.  114. 

New  York  City  325. 

Astor  Library  333. 
Battery  329. 

Bay,  the  329. 

Bible  House  333. 
Boulevard  338. 

Bowling  Green  329. 
Broadway  330,  335. 
Cathedral  336. 

Central  Park  336. 

Christ  Church  335. 

City  Hall  332. 

Cooper  Institute  333. 
Court  House  332. 
Custom  House  331. 

Fifth  Avenue  335. 

Five  Points  332. 

Grace  Church  333. 

Grand  Central  Depot  336. 
High  Bridge  33S. 

Lenox  Library  338. 
Madison  Square  334. 
National  Academy  of 
Design  334. 

New  Post-Office  332. 
New  York  University  333 
Park  Jlow  331. 

Reservoir  335. 

St.  George  334. 

St.  Paul  331. 


Sub-Treasury  330. 
Temple  Emanuel  336. 
Tombs,  the  332. 

Trinity  Church  330. 
Union  Square  333. 

Wall  Street  330. 

Ward’s  Island  339. 

Y.  M.  C.  Association  334. 
Niantic,  Conn.  74. 

Nix’s  Mate,  Mass.  23. 
Norfolk,  Conn.  120. 
Norman’s  Woe  246. 
Noroton,  Conn.  87. 
Norridgewock,  Me.  293. 

N.  Adams,  Mass.  154. 
Northampton,  Mass.  159. 
Northboro,  Mass.  126. 

N.  Conway,  N.  H.  223,  287. 
Northfield,  Mass.  102. 
Northfield,  Vt.  200. 

N.  Haven,  Conn.  141. 

N.  Stratford,  N.  H.  243. 
Northumberland,  N.  H. 

212,  243,  290. 

N.  Yarmouth,  Me.  287. 
Norton’s  Falls,  Conn.  122. 
Norwalk,  Conn.  87. 
Norwich,  Conn.  96,  119. 
Norwich,  Vt.  166. 

Notch,  Bolton,  Conn.  94. 
Dixville,  N.  H.  243. 
Franconia,  N.  H.  238. 
Grafton,  Me.  289. 
Pinkham,  N.  H.  226. 
Sandgate,  Vt.  186. 
Smuggler’s,  Vt.  202. 
White  Mt.  231. 
Wilmington,  N.  Y.  367. 

Oak  Bluffs,  Mass.  60. 

Old  Deerfield,  Mass.  163. 
Old  Hadley,  Mass.  161. 

Old  Orchard  Beach  283. 
Oldtown,  Me.  318. 

Ore  Hill,  Conn.  121. 

Orford  Mt.,  Can.  173. 
Orford,  N.  H.  168. 

Orient  Springs,  Mass.  102. 
Orono,  Me.  318. 

Osceola,  Mt.  242. 

Ossipee  Mt.,  N.H.  219,  220. 
Ossipee,  N.  H.  214. 

Otta  Quechee  Valley,  Vt. 
199. 

Owl’s  Head  Mt.,  Can.  172. 
Oxford,  Me.  288. 

Oxford,  Mass.  104. 

Palenville,  N.  Y.  348. 
Palisades,  the  341. 

Palmer,  Mass.  130. 

Paris  Hill,  Me.  288. 
Parmachene  Lake  289. 


INDEX. 


Pasque  Id.,  Mass.  92. 
Passaconaway  Mt.  220. 
Passumpsic,  Vt.  169. 
Patten,  Me.  319. 

Paulding  Manor,  N.  Y.  342. 
$ Pawtucket,  R.  I.  62. 
Pawtuxet,  R.  I.  65. 
Peabody,  Mass.  253. 
Peacedale,  R.  I.  68. 

Peak’s  Id.,  Me.  274. 
Peekskill,  N.  Y.343. 
Pelham  Fort,  Mass.  179. 
Pemaquid,  Me.  299. 
Pemigewasset  Valley  210. 
Penequeese  Id.  92. 
Pepperell,  Mass.  105. 
Pequot  House,  Conn.  74. 
Perry’s  Peak,  Mass.  148. 
Peterboro,  N.  H.  180. 
Phillips,  Me.  292. 
Phipsburg,  Me,  297. 
Piermont,  N.  J.  342. 

Pigeon  Cove,  Mass.  247. 
Pittsburg,  N.  H.  245. 
Pittsfield,  Mass.  144. 
Pittsford,  N.  H.  182. 
Placentia,  ‘N.  Y.  346. 
Plainfield,  Conn.  94. 
Plainville,  Conn.  109. 
Plattsburg,  N.  Y.  367. 
Pleasant,  Mt.  236 
Plymouth,  Conn.  112. 
Plymouth,  Mass.  51. 
Burying  Hill  53. 
Forefather’s  Rock  52. 
Pilgrim  Hall  52. 
Plymouth  Forest  53. 
Plymouth,  N.  H.  210,  217, 
242. 

Pocasset,  Mass.  58. 

Point  Judith,  R.  I.  69. 
Point  Levi,  Can.  290,  383. 
Point  Shirley,  Mass.  20. 
Pomfret,  Conn.  118. 
Pompanoosuc,  Vt.  167. 
Pool,  the  N.  H.  240. 

Port  Chester,  N.  Y.  90. 
Port  Henry,  N.  Y.  365. 
Port  Kent,  N.  Y.  367. 
Portland,  Me.  270,  283. 

City  Hall  272. 

Custom  House  272. 
Evergreen  Cem.  273. 
Observatory  272. 
Post-Office  273. 

W.  Promenade  271. 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.  263. 
Poughkeepsie,  N.  Y.  346. 
Poultney,  Vt.  187. 

Presque  Isle,  Me.  323. 
Princeton,  Mass.  177. 
Proctorsville,  Vt.  181. 
Profile  House  238. 

17* 


Profile,  the  239. 

Prospect  Mt.,  Conn.  115. 
Prospect  Mt.,  N.  H.  210. 
Prout’s  Neck,  Me.  270. 
Providence,  R.  I.  63. 
Arcade  63. 

Athenoeum  64. 

Brown  University  64. 
Monument  63. 

R.  . Hospital  64. 
Provincetown,  Mass.  57. 
Prudence  Id.,  R.  I.  66. 
Pulaski  Mt.,  Vt.  168. 
Putnam,  Conn.  117. 
Putney,  Vt.  164. 

Quebec,  Can.  290,  375. 
Cathedral  380. 

Citadel  379. 

Durham  Terrace  378. 
English  Cathedral  678. 
Golden  Dog  382. 

Hotel  Dieu  380. 

Jesuit  Buildings  381. 
Laval  University  381. 
Marine  Hospital  382. 
Market  Square  380. 

Mt.  Hermon  Cem.  383. 
Notre  Dame  des  Victoires 
383. 

Parliament  House  380. 
Place  d’Armes  378. 

Plains  of  Abraham  383. 
Prescott  Gate  380. 
Seminary  381. 

St.  John’s  Gate  379. 

St.  Louis  Gate  379. 
Ursuline  Convent  381. 
Wolfe  and  Montcalm 
Monument  379. 

Queen’s  Fort,  R.  I.  69. 
Quincy,  Mass.  37. 
Quinsigamond  Lake  126. 
Quoddy  Head,  Me.  322. 

Rafe’s  Chasm,  Mass.  247. 
Ragged  Mt.,  N.  H.  198. 
Randolph  Hill  228,  236. 
Randolph,  Vt.  200. 
Rangeley  Lakes  245,  292. 
Raynham,  Mass.  38. 
Readfield,  Me.  309. 
Reading,  Conn.  116. 
Reading,  Mass.  276. 
Readville,  Mass.  62. 
Recluse  Id.,  N.  Y.  359. 

Red  Hill,  N.  H.  216. 
Revere  Beach,  27. 
Rliinebeck-on-Hudson  347. 
Rhode  Island  40,  46. 
Richford,  Vt.  207. 
Richmond,  Can.  290. 
Richmond  Id.  270. 


393 


Richmond,  Me.  311. 
Ridgefield,  Conn.  116. 
Ridley’s  Station,  Vt.  203. 
Rindge,  N.  H.  179. 

Ripton,  Vt.  184. 

River,  Ammonoosuc  233, 
290. 

Androscoggin  289,  291, 
30S,  310. 

Aroostook  323,  324, 
Chaudiere  313,  383. 
Connecticut  75,  106,  134, 
157,  169,  211,  243,  245. 
East  47,  339. 

Farmington  109,  143. 
Housatonic  115, 148, 153. 
Hudson  340,  356. 
Kennebec  293,  311. 
Lamoille  203,  204. 
Merrimac  189,  193,  197, 
258,  278,  279. 
Missisquoi  206. 
Naugatuck  111. 
Passumpsic  169. 
Pemigewasset  210,  241. 
Penobscot  296,  316. 
Richelieu  207,  368,  373. 
Saco  223,  231,  269,  285. 
Saguenay  385. 

St.  Croix  322. 

St.  John  320,  323. 

St.  Lawrence  369,  372, 
373,  384. 

St.  Mauyice  374. 

Thames  96. 

Winooski  203,  204. 
Riverdale,  Mass.  246. 
Rivermouth  Rocks,  262. 
Riviere  du  Loup  323,  385. 
Rochester,  N.  H.  213,  282. 
Rockland  Lake,  N.  Y.  343. 
Rockland,  Me.  301,  316. 
Rockport,  Mass.  247. 
Rockville,  Conn.  94. 

Rocky  Hill,  Conn.  140. 
Rocky  Point,  R.  I.  65. 
Rogers’  Slide,  N.  Y.  360. 
Rondout,  N.  Y.  346. 
Roslyn,  L.  I.  340. 
Rougemont  Mt.  208. 
Rouillard  Mt.  290. 

Round  Id.,  Can.  172. 
Rouse’s  Point,  N.  Y.  207. 
Rowley,  Mass.  258. 
Roxbury,  Mass.  36. 
Roxbury,  Vt.  200. 
Royalton,  Vt.  200. 

Rumford  Falls,  Me.  288. 
Rumney,  N.  H.  211. 
Rutland,  Vt.  181. 

Rye  Beach,  N.  H.  263. 
Rvegate,  Vt.  168. 

Rye,  N.  Y.  90. 


394 


INDEX. 


Sabbath  Day  Point  359. 
Saccarappa.  Me.  213. 
Sachem’s  Head,  Conn.  76. 
Sachem’s  Plain,  Conn.  97. 
Saco,  Me.  269. 

Saco  Pool  269. 

Sage’s  Ravine,  Conn.  122. 
Saguenay  River  385. 

St.  Albans,  Vt.  204. 

St.  Andrew,  N.  B.  322. 

Ste.  Anne,  Can.  384. 

St.  Charles,  Lake  384. 

St.  Fereol  Falls  385. 

St.  Francis,  Me  324. 

St.  George,  Me.  301. 

St.  Hyacintlie,  Can.  290. 
St.  John  River  320. 

St.  Johnsbury,  Vt.  169. 

St.  John’s,  Can.  208. 

St.  Johns,  N.  B.  320. 

St.  Maurice  River  374. 

St.  Stephen,  N.  B.  323. 
Salem,  Mass.  251. 

Court  House  253. 
Custom  House  253. 

East  India  Museum  252. 
Plummer  Hall  252. 
Salem  Neck  253. 
Salisbury  Beach  260. 
Salisbury,  Conn.  115,  121. 
Salisbury,  Mass.  260. 
Salmon  Falls,  N.  H.  2S3. 
Sandgate  Notch,  Vt.  186. 
Sandisfield,  Mass.  152. 
Sand  Spring,  Mass.  156. 
Sandwich,  Mass.  55. 
Sandwich,  N.  H.  219. 
Sankoty  Head,  62. 
Saratoga  Springs  350. 
Battle-field  355. 
Columbian  Spring  352. 
Congress  Spring  352. 
Crystal  Spring  353. 
Excelsior  Spring  354. 
Geyser  Spring  354. 

Lake,  the  354. 

Park,  Congress  352. 
Pavilion  Spring  353. 
Seltzer  Spring  353. 

Star  Spring  354. 
Saugerties,  N.  Y.  347. 
Savin  Rock,  Conn.  83. 
Savoy,  Mass.  1*53. 

Sawyer’s  Rock,  N.  H.  230. 
Saybrook,  Conn.  75. 
Scarboro  Beach  270,  2S3. 
Sclioodic  Lakes,  Me.  322. 
Schooner  Head,  Me.  304. 
Scituate,  Mass.  49. 

Screw  Anger  Falls  289. 
Seabrook,  N.  H.  261. 
Searsport,  Me.  317. 

Sebago  Lake,  Me.  284. 


Sebec  Lake,  Me.  295. 
Sesacacha  Pond  62. 
Seymour,  Conn.  111. 
Sharon,  Mass.  62. 

Sharon,  Vt.  199. 
Sliawanegan  Falls  374. 
Sheffield,  Mass.  153. 
Sheffield,  N.  B.  320. 
Shelburne  Falls,  Mass.  179. 
Shelburne,  N.  H.  289. 
Sheldon  Springs,  Vt.  206. 
Sherbrooke,  Can.  174. 
Shippan  Point,  Conn.  89. 
Shoals,  Isles  of  265. 
Shrewsbury,  Mass.  126. 
Siasconset,  Mass.  61. 

Silver  Cascade,  232. 
Simsbury,  Conn.  109. 

Sing  Sing,  N.  Y.  343. 
Skinner  Hollow,  Vt.  185. 
Skinner’s  Id.,  Can.  172. 
Skowhegan,  Me.  293. 
Sleepy  Hollow,  N.  Y.  342. 
Smugglers’  Notch,  Vt.  202. 
Solon,  Me.  294. 

Somerville,  Mass.  249,  275. 
Somes’  Sound,  Me.  306. 
Sorel,  Can.  373. 

S.  Adams,  Mass.  153. 

S.  Braintree,  Mass.  38,  51. 
S.  Cornwall,  Conn.  115. 

S.  Deerfield,  Mass.  162. 

S.  Egremont,  Mass.  152. 

S.  Framingham  125. 

S.  Hadley,  Mass.  158. 
Southington,  Conn.  109. 

S.  Kingstown,  R.  I.  69. 

S.  Mountain,  Mass.  145. 

S.  Norwalk,  Conn.  87. 

S.  Paris,  Me.  288. 
Southport,  Conn . 86. 
Southport,  Me.  299. 

S.  Royalton,  Vt.  200. 

S.  Vernon,  Vt.  102. 
Southwest  Harbor. Me.  306. 
S.  Windham,  Me.  284. 

S.  Windsor,  Conn.  140. 
Sparkling  Cascade  232. 
Spectacle  Ponds  114. 
Spencer,  Mass.  130. 

Spot  Pond  1S9,  275. 
Springfield,  Mass.  131,  157* 
City  Library  132. 

Court  House  132. 

U.  S.  Armory  131. 
Springfield,  Vt.  165,  181. 
Springvale,  Me.  213. 
Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek,  N. 
Y.  341. 

Spy  Pond,  Mass.  34. 

Squam  Lake  217,  220. 
Squantum  Point  37. 
Stafford  Springs  99. 


Stage  Id.,  Me.  269. 
Stamford,  Conn.  88. 
Standish,  Me.  285. 
Stanstead,  Can.  174. 

Star  Id.,  N.  H.  265. 

Starks,  Me.  294. 
Stockbridge,  Mass.  149. 
Stoneham,  Mass.  275. 
Stonington,  Conn.  71. 
Stony  Creek,  Conn.  76. 
Stony  Point,  N.  Y.  343. 
Stow,  Vt.  202. 

Strafford,  N.  H.  282. 
Stratford,  Conn.  84. 
Stratford,  N.  H.  290. 
Stratham,  N.  H.  267. 
Stratton  Gap,  Vt.  185. 
Strong,  Me.  292. 

Sudbury,  Mass.  125. 

Sugar  Loaf  Mt.  162. 
Summit,  Vt.  181. 

Sunapee  Lake,  N.  H.  196. 
Suncook,  N.  H.  194. 
Sunderland,  Mass.  162. 
Surprise,  Mt.  228. 
Sutherland  Falls,  Vt.  182. 
Swamp  cott,  Mass.  251. 

S wanton,  Vt.  207. 

Swanzey,  N.  H.  102. 
Sylvan  Glade  Cataract  232 

Tadousac,  Can.  385. 
Talcott  Mt.,  Conn.  139. 
Tappan,  N.  J.  342. 

Tappan  Zee  342. 
Tarrytown,  N.  Y.  342. 
Taunton,  Mass.  38. 
Templeton,  Mass.  177. 
Tewksbury,  Mass.  189. 
Thacher’s  Id.,  Mass.  247. 
The  Forks,  Me.  294. 
Thetford,  Vt.  167. 

Thimble  Is.,  Conn.  76. 
Thomaston,  Me.  301. 
Thompson,  Conn.  104,  117. 
Thompson’s  Falls,  N.  H. 
226. 

Thompson’s  Id.  22. 
Thompsonville  133. 

Three  Rivers,  Can.  290,  374. 
Throgg’s  Point,  N.  Y.  47. 
Ticonderoga,  Fort  1S3,  362. 
Tilton,  N.  H.  209. 

Tivoli,  N.  Y.  347. 

Toby  Mt.  102. 

Tolland,  Conn.  99. 
Topsfield,  Mass.  276. 

Troy,  N.  H.  380. 

Troy,  N.  Y.  350. 

Truro,  Mass.  56. 
Tuckerman’s  Ravine,  FT. 
H.  227,  237. 

Tufts  College,  Mass.  189. 


INDEX. 


395 


Turner’s  Falls,  Mass.  178. 
Twin  Lakes,  Conn.  123. 
Twin  Mt.  House  233. 

Umbagog  Lake  244,  289. 
Undercliff,  N.  Y.  345. 
Upper  Bartlett  230,  287. 
Upton,  Me.  244,  289. 
Uxbridge,  Mass.  93. 

Van  Buren,  Me.  324. 
Vanceboro,  Me.  319. 
Varennes,  Can.  373. 
Vassalboro,  Me.  313. 
Vassar  College  346. 
Vergennes,  Vt.  184,  365. 
Vernon,  Conn.  94. 

Vernon, Vt.  102. 
Verplanck’s  Point  343. 
Vershire,  Vt.  167. 
Vineyard  Haven  60. 
Vineyard  Sound  92. 

Vue  de  l’Eau,  R.  I.  65. 

Wachusett,  Mt.  177. 
Wakefield,  Mass.  276. 
Waldoboro,  Me.  300. 
Wallingford,  Conn.  140. 
Wallingford,  Vt.  184. 
Walpole,  N.  H.  180. 
Waltham,  Mass.  175. 
Ward’s  Id.,  N.  Y.  47,  339. 
Ware,  Mass.  99. 
Wareham,  Mass.  54. 
Warehouse  Point  133. 
Warren,  Me.  300. 

Warren,  Mass.  130. 
Warren,  N.  H.  211. 
Warren,  R.  I.  66. 
Warwick,  R.  I.  67. 
Washington,  Mass.  143. 
Washington,  Mt.  234. 
Watch  Hill  Point  70. 
Waterbury,  Conn.  95. 
Waterbury,  Vt.  202. 
Waterford,  Me.  285. 
Watertown,  Conn.  112. 


Watertown,  Mass.  34. 
Waterville,  Conn.  112. 
Waterville,  Me.  309,  314. 
Waterville,  N.  H.  242. 
Waukawan  Lake  209. 
Waumbek  House  212,  229. 
Wauregan,  Conn.  119. 
Webster,  Mass.  104. 
Weeliawken,  N.  J.  341. 
Weir  June.,  Mass.  90. 
Weirs,  N.  H.  209,  215. 
Weld,  Me.  291. 

Wellesley,  Mass.  124. 
Wellfleet,  Mass.  56. 

Wells  Beach  268,  283. 

Wells  River,  Vt.  168,  211. 
Wenham,  Mass.  256. 
Wentworth,  N.  LI.  211. 
Westboro,  Mass.  126. 

W.  Brookfield,  Mass.  130. 
Westbrook,  Me.  284,  309. 
Westerlv,  R.  I.  70. 
Westfield,  Mass.  110,  142. 
Westford,  Mass.  176. 

W.  Lebanon,  N.  H.  199. 

W.  Medford,  Mass.  188. 
Westminster,  Mass.  177. 
Westminster,  Vt.  164. 
Weston,  Me.  319. 

W.  Ossipee,  N.  H.  214,  220. 
West  Point,  N.  Y.  344. 
Westport,  Conn.  87. 
Westport,  Me.  299. 
Westport,  Mass.  92. 
Westport,  N.  Y.  365. 

West  Rock,  Conn.  83. 

W.  Rutland,  Vt.  182,  187. 
W.  Troy,  N.  Y.  350. 
Wethersfield,  Conn.  139. 
Weymouth,  Mass.  48. 
Whately,  Mass.  162. 
Whiteface  Mt.  220. 
Whitehall,  N.  Y.  188,  356. 
White  Id.,  N.  H.  266. 

White  River  June.,  Vt.  166, 
199. 

White  Mt.  Notch  231. 


White  Mts.  213,  222. 
Wickford,  R.  I.  67. 
Wilbraham,  Mass.  130. 
Willard,  Mt.  231. 

Willey  House  231. 
Williamsburg,  Mass.  110. 
Williams  College  156. 
Williamstown,  Mass.  156. 
Williinantic,  Conn.  94. 
Willoughby  Lake  170. 
Wilton,  N.  H.  192. 
Winchendon,  Mass.  179. 
Winchester,  Mass.  189. 
Winchester,  N.  II.  102. 
Windham,  N.  H.  279. 
Windsor,  Conn.  133. 
Windsor,  Mass.  144. 
Windsor,  Vt.  165. 

Wing  Road,  N.  H.  212. 
Winnepesaukee  Lake,  N. 

H.  215,  282. 

Winooski,  Vt.  204,  366. 
Winsted,  Conn.  113. 
Winterport,  Me.  318. 
Winthrop,  Me.  308. 
Wiscasset,  Me.  298. 
Woburn,  Mass.  189. 
Wolcottville,  Conn.  113. 
Wolfboro,  N.  H.  214,  218. 
Wood’s  Hole,  59,  92. 
Woodstock,  Conn.  117. 
Woodstock,  N.  B.  323. 
Woodstock,  N.  H.  241. 
Woodstock,  Vt.  199. 
Woolwich,  Me.  298. 
Woonsocket,  R.  I.  93,  120. 
Worcester,  Mass.  127. 
Antiquarian  Soc.  128. 
Industrial  School  127. 
Monuments  129. 

Yale  College,  Conn.  75,  80. 
Yantic  Falls,  Conn.  96. 
Yarmouth,  Me.  309. 
Yarmouth,  Mass  56. 
Yonkers,  N.  Y.  341. 

York,  Me.  266. 


396 


INDEX. 


Index  of  Historical  Allusions. 


Albany,  N.  Y.  349. 

Banger,  Me.  31 6. 

Battle  of  Bennington  186. 
Bloody  Brook  162. 
Bunker  Hill  26. 

Castine  302. 

the  Chesapeake  and 
Shannon  255. 
Hubbardton  187. 
the  Indians  150. 

Lake  George  356. 
Lexington  28. 

Pequawket  286. 

Pequot  Hill  72. 
Plattsburg  367. 

Quebec  376. 

Saratoga  355. 

Turner’s  Falls  178. 
Biddeford  269. 

Block  Island  71. 

Boston  7. 

Braintree,  Mass.  38. 
Bridgeport,  Conn.  85. 
Brookfield,  Mass.  130. 
Brunswick,  Me.  309. 
Burlington,  Yt.  367. 

Cape  Ann  248. 

Cape  Cod  55. 

Castine,  Me.  302. 

Chambly,  Can.  208. 
Charlestown,  N.  H.  165. 
Concord,  N.  H.  194. 

Crown  Point,  N.  Y.  3G4. 
Cuttyhunk,  Mass.  92. 


Danbury,  Conn.  116. 
Deerfield,  Mass.  163. 
Dover,  N.  H.  282. 
Duxbury,  Mass.  50. 

Fort  Montgomery,  344. 
Fort  Tieonderoga,  362. 
Fryeburg,  Me.  286. 

Hadley,  Mass.  161. 
Hampton,  N.  H.  262. 

Isles  of  Shoals  266. 
Kennebunk,  Me.  268. 

Lake  Champlain  361. 

Lake  George  357. 

Lebanon,  Conn.  98. 
Litchfield,  Conn.  112,  113. 
Londonderry,  N.  II.  279. 
Louisburg  Campaigns  7. 
Lynn,  Mass.  250. 
Marblehead,  Mass.  256. 
Marshpee,  Mass.  56. 
Martha’s  Vineyard  59. 
Milford,  Conn.  84. 
Montreal  368. 

Mount  Desert  306. 
Nantucket  60. 
Narragansett  Fort  Fight 
69. 

Natick,  Mass.  125. 

New  Bedford,  Mass.  90. 
New  Haven,  Conn.  77. 

New  London,  Conn.  72. 
New  York  328. 
Newburyport,  Mass.  260. 
Newport,  R.  I.  40. 


Norridgewock,  Me.  293. 
Northampton,  Mass.  159. 
Pemaquid,  Me.  299. 
Phipsburg,  Me.  297. 
Pilgrim  Compact  58. 
Plymouth,  Mass.  51. 
Portland,  Me.  271. 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.  264. 
Providence,  R.  I.  63. 
Quebec  376. 

Rhode  Island  46. 

Rye,  N.  H.  263. 

St.  John,  N.  B.  321. 
Salem,  Mass.  253. 
Salisbury,  Conn.  123. 
Saybrook,  Conn.  75. 
Scarborough,  Me.  270. 
Southport,  Conn.  87. 
Springfield,  Mass.  131. 
Stockbridge,  Mass.  149. 
Stonington,  Conn.  71. 
Stony  Point,  N.  Y.  343. 
Sudbury,  Mass.  125. 
Thomaston,  Me.  301. 
Warwick,  R.  I.  67. 

Wells,  Me.  268. 

West  Point,  N.  Y.  344. 
Whitehall,  N.  Y.  356. 
White  Mts.  222. 

Windsor,  Conn.  133. 
Worcester,  Mass.  129. 
Yale  College  75,  76,  80. 
York,  Me.  267. 


Index  of  Biographical  Allusions. 


Adams,  Charles  Francis  38. 
Adams,  John  37. 

Adams,  John  Quincy  37. 
Adams,  Samuel  13. 

Allen,  Ethan  201,  363. 

Allen,  William  146. 

Allston,  Washington  31,  45. 
Ames,  Fisher  117. 

Andre,  Major  John  343. 
Andrew,  Gov.  John  A.  24. 
Arnold,  Benedict  342,  363,  376. 
Banks,  Nathaniel  P.  175. 
Barlow,  Joel  116. 

Barnards,  the  153. 

Barnum,  Phineas  T.  86. 
Beecher,  Henry  Ward  113. 
Beecher,  Lyman  79,  113. 
Bellows,  Henry  W.  181. 
Berkeley,  Dean  George  45. 
Bowdoin,  James  92,  310. 
Brentons,  the  46. 

Brooks,  Gov.  John  189. 

Brown,  Col.  John  152,  358,  363. 


Brown,  John  152,  113. 

Bryant,  William  Cullen  110,  157,  340. 
Casey,  Gen.  Silas  67. 

Cass,  Lewis  281. 

Chamberlain,  Gov.  J.  L.  311. 
Champlain,  Samuel  de  361,  61,  55. 
Champlin  Com.  Stephen  68. 
Clianning,  William  Ellery  42. 

Chase,  Bishop  Philander  166. 

Chase,  Chief- Justice  Salmon  P.  166. 
Chase,  Senator  Dudley  166. 

Choate,  Rufus  257. 

Cole,  Thomas  348. 

Copley,  John  Singleton  31. 

Cross  well,  Harry  79. 

Dane,  Nathan  256. 

Davenport,  Abraham  89. 

Dawes,  Henry  L.  110. 

Dickinson,  Daniel  S.  115, 

Dix,  John  A.  197. 

Dixwell,  John  80. 

Douglas,  Stephen  A.  183. 

Downes,  Com.  John  62. 


INDEX. 


397 


Dudley,  Gov.  Thomas  36. 

Eaton,  Gen.  William  130. 

Edwards,  Jonathan  150,  159. 

Eliot,  John  36,  120. 

Ellsworth,  Oliver  134. 

Emerson,  Ralph  Waldo  28. 

Fessenden,  William  Pitt  197. 

Fields,  the  150. 

Fisk,  Wilbur  103. 

Foote,  Admiral  Andrew  H.  79. 

Franklin,  Benjamin  11. 

Garrison,  William  Lloyd  261. 

Gays,  the  24. 

Goffe,  Gen.  William  161. 

Goodrich,  C.  A.  79. 

Goodrich,  S.  G.  116. 

Gorton,  Samuel  67. 

Grants,  the  134. 

Greeley,  Horace  192. 

Greene,  Gen.  G.  S.  67. 

Greene,  Gen.  Nathaniel  67. 

Grow,  Galusha  A.  11 S. 

Hale,  Senator  John  P.  213,  281. 

Halleck;  Fitz  Greene  76. 

Hancock,  John  38. 

Haraden,  Capt.  Jonathan  248. 
Hawthorne,  Nathaniel  254,  28,  210,  311. 
Hazens,  the  280. 

Holmes,  Oliver  Wendell  30,  146. 
Hooker,  Gen.  Joseph  162. 

Hosmer,  Harriet  G.  35. 

Howard,  Gen.  Oliver  O.  291. 

Howe,  Elias,  Jr.  130. 

Hudson,  Hendrick  55,  340. 

Ives,  Bishop  Levi  S.  140. 

Judson,  Adoniram  275. 

Knowlton,  Col.  Thomas  118. 

Knox,  Gen.  Henry  301. 

Lander,  Gen.  F.  W.  254. 

Lawrences,  the  279. 

Lincoln,  Gen.  Benjamin  24. 

Longfellow,  Henry  W.  33,  311. 

Lowell,  James  Russell  30. 

Lyon,  Gen.  Nathaniel  118. 

Mansfield,  Gen.  J.  K.  F.  107. 

Marsh,  Geo.  P.  199. 

Mead,  Larkin  G.  103. 

Melville,  Herman  146. 

Miantonomoh,  72,  97. 

Miller,  William  146. 

Mills,  Samuel  J.  156. 

Monis,  Rabbi  Judah  126. 

Morse,  S.  F.  B.  79,  346. 

Murray,  John  246. 

Murray,  W.  H.  H.  76. 

Nanunteno  98. 


Nott,  Eliphalet  118. 

Ossoli,  Margaret  Fuller,  Countess  d’  30. 
Paine,  Thomas  90. 

Parker,  Thomas  260. 

Passaconaway,  194,  220,  222. 

Pepperell,  Sir  William  265. 

Percival,  James  Gates  140. 

Perry,  Com.  Oliver  Hazard  68. 

Philip,  King  66. 

Phips,  Sir  William  298. 

Pickering,  Timothy  254. 

Pierce,  Franklin  196,  311. 

Powers,  Hiram  199. 

Preble,  Com.  Edward  272. 

Prescott,  William  H.  254,  105. 

Putnam,  Gen.  Israel  119,  89,  254. 

Rale,  Sebastian  293. 

Rantoul,  Robert,  Jr.  256. 

Rumford,  Count  195. 

St.  Castine,  Vincent,  Baron  de  302. 
Sandeman,  Robert  116. 

Saxe,  John  Godfrey  208. 

Seabury,  Bishop  Samuel  74. 

Shaw,  Henry  W.  (“Josh.  Billings”)  153. 
Sherman,  Roger  79. 

Silliman,  Benjamin  79. 

Smith,  Joseph  200. 

Standish,  Miles  51. 

Stowe,  Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  113. 

Stuart,  Gilbert  C.  6S. 

Thoreau,  Henry  D.  28. 

Ticknor,  George  17,  167. 

Trumbulls,  the  9S. 

Uncas,  72,  97. 

Ward,  Gen.  Artemas  126. 

Ward,  Gen.  F.  T.  254. 

Warren,  Joseph  27. 

Washburnes,  the  291. 

Webster,  Daniel  49,  287,  197,  210. 
Webster,  Noah  79. 

Whitefield,  George  259. 

Whitney,  Prof.  W.D.  159. 

Whittier,  John  Greenleaf  261. 

Williams,  Col.  Ephraim  156,  356. 
Williston,  Samuel  110. 

Wilson,  Henry  282. 

Winslow,  Admiral  John  A.  50. 

Winslow,  Gov.  Edward  50. 

Winslow,  Gen.  John  50. 

Winslow,  Gov.  Josiah  50. 

Winthrop,  John  14. 

Winthrop,  Theodore  79. 

Wolootts,  the  134. 

Wonnolancet  194. 

Young,  Brigham  104,  200. 


Index  of  Quotations. 


Adams,  John  Quincy  38,  58. 
Andrew.  John  A.  149. 
Bartol,  Dr.  C.  A.  215. 


I Beecher,  Henry  Ward  105,  114,  117,  121, 
122,  147,  148,  149,  151,  152,  153,  205. 
(Berkeley,  Dean  45. 


398 


INDEX. 


Biard,  Father  307. 

Bremer,  Fredrika  28,  147,  190,  217, 
Bryant,  William  Cullen  151. 

Burke,  Edmund  248. 

Canadian  Hand-Book  174,  290,  372. 
Champlain,  Samuel  de  361. 

Chapman,  Rev.  Dr.  166. 

Charlevoix,  Father  294. 

Chateaubriand  344. 

Connecticut  Legislature  70,  72. 

Coolidge  and  Mansfield  191,  192. 

Cooper,  J.  Fenimore  26,  29. 

Courier,  Boston  141. 

Curtis,  George  William  144. 

Dickens,  Charles  9,  19,  106,  190. 

Dilke,  Sir  Charles  20,  30,  57,  165,  212 
378. 

Drake,  Francis  S.  13,  28,  42,  50,  150,  261 
Dwight,  Pres.  Timothy  71,  86,  98,  99 
146,  158,  249,  260,  275,  366. 
Emerson,  Ralph  Waldo  28. 

Everett,  Edward  27,  52,  156,  215. 

Field,  Darby  222. 

Gookin,  Daniel,  59,  69. 

Greylock,  Godfrey  143,  145,  146. 
Hawthorne,  Nathaniel  151, 154,  155,  179 
Hayes,  Dr.  206. 

Hemans,  Mrs.  52. 

Hitchcock,  Dr.  Edward  152,  17S,  179. 
Hoar,  Judge  129. 

Howells,  William  D.  103,  386. 
Humphreys,  Col.  86. 

Irving,  Washington  344,  346. 

Johnston,  Lady  Arabella  254. 

Josselyn,  John  7,  15. 

Kemble,  Fanny  147. 


King,  Thomas  Starr  212,  214,  215,  216, 
221,  223,  224,  225,  226,  227,  228,  232, 
235,  237,  238,  239,  240,  241. 

Lewis,  Alonzo  22. 

Longfellow,  Henry  W.  125,  126,  132,  246, 
39,  51,  76,  324. 

Lossing,  Benson  J.  73,  356. 

Lyell,  Sir  Charles  60,  146,  183,  223. 
Marmier,  X.  377. 

Marry att,  Capt.  143. 

Mather,  Cotton  38,  51,  72,  76,  78,  84,  98, 
| 136,  163,  253,  257,  260. 

Morton,  Thomas  38. 

Pemaquid : a ballad  300. 

Percival,  J.  G.  217. 

Pring,  Capt.  317. 
i Sedgwick,  Miss  143. 

Sigourney,  Mrs.  97,  139. 

Silliman,  Prof.  109,  140,  147,  377. 

Smith,  Capt.  John  49,  55,  257. 

Southey,  Robert  189. 

Taylor,  Bayard  232. 

Thomas,  Judge  129. 

Thoreau,  H.  D.  28,  49,  55,  57. 
Tocqueville,  de  80. 

Trumbull,  John  159. 

Twain,  Mark  137. 

Warville,  Brissot  de  41,  63,  107,  130,  135, 
264. 

Weymouth,  Capt.  301,  317. 

Whittier,  John  G.  89,  104,  144,  195,  215, 
219,  220,  248,  256,  260,  262,  263,  275, 
294,  305,  321. 

Williams,  Roger  69. 

Wintlirop,  Theodore  243,  244,  296,  297. 
Wortley,  Lady  Emma  S.  91,  92,  246. 


INDEX. 


399 


Index  to  Railways. 


Ashuelot  102. 

Athol  and  Enfield  100. 

Bangor  and  Piscataquis  295. 

Boston  and  Albany  124,  141. 

Boston,  Clinton,  and  Fitchburg  125 
Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  209. 
Boston,  Hartford,  and  Erie  117. 

Woonsocket  Division  120. 

Boston,  Lowell,  and  Nashua  188. 
Boston  and  Maine  275. 

Dover  and  Winnepesaukee  282. 
Boston  and  Providence  62. 

Cape  Cod  54. 

Cheshire  179. 

Concord  192. 

Concord  and  Claremont  196. 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  166. 
Connecticut  River  157. 

Connecticut  Valley  106. 

Connecticut  Western  120. 

Danbury  and  Norwalk  115. 

Eastern  248. 

Amesbury  Branch  261. 

Essex  Branch  257. 

Marblehead  Branch  255. 

P.  G.  F.  and  Conway  213. 

European  and  North  American  318. 
Fairhaven  54. 

Fitchburg  175. 

Grand  Trunk  2S7. 

Hartford,  Providence,  and  Fishkill  94. 
Housatonic  114,  147. 


Knox  and  Lincoln  297. 

Lowell  and  Lawrence  279. 

Maine  Central  307,  309. 

Androscoggin  291. 

Manchester  and  Lawrence  279. 
Monadnock  179. 

Naugatuck  111. 

New  Brunswick  and  Canada  323. 

New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Springfield 
133. 

New  Haven  and  Stonington  71. 

New  Haven  and  Northampton  108. 

New  York  and  New  Haven  84. 
Newburyport  276. 

Northern  (N.  H.)  197. 

New  London  Northern  96. 

Old  Colony  36. 

Portland  and  Ogdensburg  284. 

Portland  and  Rochester  213. 

Portland  and  Oxford  Central  287. 
Providence  and  Bristol  66. 

Providence  and  Worcester  93. 
Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  187,  350. 
Rutland  and  Washington  187. 

Salem  and  Lowell  255. 

South  Shore  48. 

Stonington  and  Providence  67. 

Vermont  Central  199. 

Rutland  Division  181. 

Vermont  and  Mass.  177. 

Worcester  and  Nashua  104. 


Steamers. 


Boston  to  Bangor  316. 

“ “ Hingham  22. 

" “ Nahant  20. 

“ " St.  John  321. 

Fall  River  Line  47. 
Norwich  “ 119. 
Stonington  “ 71. 
Martha’s  Vineyard  59,  92. 
St.  Lawrence  River  373. 
Hudson  “ 340. 


Saguenay  River  375,  385. 
Mt.  Desert  Line  302. 

Isles  of  Shoals  265. 
Narragansett  Bay  65. 
Casco  “ 274. 

Passamaquoddy  Bay  322. 
Lake  Champlain  361. 

“ George  357. 

“ Winnepesaukee  215. 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX  TO  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Page 

AMERICAN  HORSE 6 

ADVENTURES  IN  THE  WILDERNESS,  &c.  . p.  facing  2d  p.  cover 

BRADFORD  & ANTHONY 4 

CHECKERING  & SONS 23 

CHILSON,  GARDNER, 24 

DREXEL  & CO 20 

EASTERN  RAILROAD  . . . . 3d  p.  cover  and  p.  facing  3d  p.  cover. 

GOURAUD,  DR.  T.  FELIX, 21 

HEWINS  & HOLLIS 2 

“INGLESIDE  ” 5 

INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  CO 12 

MACULLAR,  WILLIAMS,  & PARKER 3 

MILLER  (THE  HENRY  F.)  PIANO  ....  last  colored  leaf. 
MERRIMAN,  G.  & C 4 

NfiW  YORK  TRIBUNE 18,19 

OAK  HILL  HOUSE 10 

OSGOOD’S  LIBRARY  OF  NOVELS 15 

PARKER  HOUSE ....  * 7 

PALMER,  BACHELDERS,  & CO 5 

PENNSYLVANIA  RAILROAD 14 

PORTLAND  STEAM  PACKET  CO 11 

POPULAR  NEW  BOOKS 22 

READ  (WM.)  & SONS 2d  p.  cover. 

REVERE  HOUSE 8 

SHORE  LINE  TO  NEW  YORK 13 

SNOW’S  RAILWAY  GUIDE 16 

SNOW’S  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  MAP 16 

STONINGTON  LINE  TO  NEW  YORK 13 

TRAVELERS  INSURANCE  CO.  . . . . . \ . . .17 

TREMONT  HOUSE 8 

WALTHAM  WATCHES 1 

WESTMINSTER  HOTEL 9 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


STEM-WINDING 

WALTHAM 

WATCHES, 

These  Watches  are  the  best  made  in  the  United  States , and 
are  accurately  adjusted  to  heat , cold,  and  position , and  war- 
ranted to  satisfy  the  most  exacting  demand  for  beauty , finish, 
and  accuracy . 

A Complete  Assortment  always  in  Stock, 

I’M  FEME  HOLD  CASES.. ! 

HS§r*  S.EjVZ>  FOR  CATALOGUES. 

HOWARD  & CO., 

* 

Jewellers  and  Silversmiths, 

222  Fifth  Avenue, 

NEW  YORK- 


2 AD  VER  T1  SEME  NTS. 


Hewins  & Hollis, 

47  Temple  Place,  ....  Boston, 


IMPORTERS  AND  RETAILERS  OF 

MEH’S  FtlRHISHIHGS. 

FINE  SHIRTS 

CAREFULLY  MALE  TO  ORDER. 

In  this  stock  will  be  found  the  best  goods  of  the  best  manufacturers  of 
England  and  France,  made  to  our  special  order  for  the  best  New  England 
trade. 

'pOFJ  7rav-eUER3. 

English  Railway  Rugs,  Scotch  Shawls,  Flannel  and  Cheviot  Shirts, 
English  Silk  Umbrellas,  Leather  Collar-Boxes,  Money-Belts, 
Bath-Towels,  Dressing-Gowns  and  Breakfast-Jackets, 
and  a complete  assortment  of  Hosiery, 

Gloves,  and  Neckwear. 

"pOF  JiADIEJS. 

London-made  Waterproof  Cloaks ; in  stock,  or  imported  to 
special  order. 

HE  WESTS  & HOLLIS, 

47  Temple  Place, 

BOSTON. 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


3 


MAGULLAR,  WILLIAMS,  & PARKER. 


During  the  rebuilding  of  our  store  at  No.  200 
Washington  Street , our  business  will  be  continued 
in  all  Departments  at  No.  00  Washington  Street, 
between  Court  Street  and  Cornhill. 


DE  PARTMENTS. 

Wholesale  Piece  Goods, 

Wholesale  Clothing, 

Retail  Clothing, 

Custom  Clothing, 

Retail  Furnishing  Goods. 


MAGULLAR,  WILLIAMS,  & PARKER. 


4 


AD  VER T1 SEMENTS. 


BRADFORD  & ANTHONY, 

IMPORTERS  AND  DEALERS  IN 


CUTLERY, 

Fishing  Tackle, 

SKATES,  AND  FANCY  HARDWARE. 

Table  Cutlery  — of  latest  styles,  — finest  finish  and  serviceable  quality. 

Pocket  Knives  — of  all  the  noted  makers  in  every  style.  — Fancy  Knives. 

Scissors  — elegantly  finished,  — all  sizes  and  forms,  — in  sets  and  cases. 

Razors  — Pressing  Cases  — Travelling  Cases. — Small  Steel  Wares  and 
articles  of  Domestic  and  Fancy  Hardware  in  endless  variety. 

Fisliing  Hods,  Lines,  Reels,  and  Tackle  for  all  waters. 

Patent  Club  Skates  of  the  best  styles,  and  all  Kinds  of  Skates,  and  many  other 
articles  of  Utility  and  Taste,  — comprising  all  that  is  Choice  and  Desirable  in  the 
above  Classes  of  Goods. 

Hotels  supplied  with  Cutlery  made  to  their  special  order. 

Orders  by  Mail  will  receive  prompt  and  careful  attention. 


BRADFORD  & ANTHONY,  Till  Autumn  of  1873.  9 

THEN  WE  SHALL  MOVE  TO 

NEW  STORE,  178  WASHINGTON  STEEET,  BOSTON. 


GET  THE  HE§T. 


Webster's  Unabridged  Dictionary. 


10,000  Words  and  Meanings  not  in  other  Dictionaries. 

3,000  Engravings  ; 1840  Pages  Quarto.  Price,  $ 12, 

Webster  now  is  glorious,  — it  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired. 

FPres.  Ravm< 

*gfflvery  scholar  knows  its  value. 

*|j^een  one  of  my  daily  companions, 
ggo  far  as  I know,  best  defining  dictionary. 
ffjlpBhe  best  guide  of  students  of  our  language. 

^j|jxcels  all  others  in  defining  scientific  terms. 

Remarkable  compendium  of  human  knowledge. 

[W.  S.  Clark,  Pres’t  Ag.  College  ] 
A necessity  for  every  intelligent  family,  student,  teacher,  and  professional  man. 
What  Library  is  complete  without  the  best  English  Dictionary  ? 

Published  by  G.  & c.  MERRIAM,  Springfield,  Mass.  Sold  by  all  Booksellers. 


[Pres.  Raymond,  Vassar  College.] 
[W.  H.  Prescott,  the  Historian.] 
[John  L.  Motley,  the  Historian,  &c.] 
[Horace  Mann  ] 
[John  G.  Whittier.] 
[President  Hitchcock.] 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  5 

Eftablifhed  1817. 


PALMER,  BACHELDERS,  & CO. 

-A-merican  and  Foreign 

MICHES, 


Diamond  & Stone  Cameo  Jewelry, 

STERLING-  SILVER  ELATE, 

PARIS  MANTEL  CLOCKS  AND  BRONZES, 

No.  31  TeBsaple  Place, 

BOSTON. 

“INGLES  IDE,” 


First-Class  Rural  Hotel  Home. 

Accessibly  Located  on  the  Holyoke  and  Westfield  Railroad, 

Provided  with  every  Modern  Improvement,  and  commanding 
Unsurpassed  Views  of  Mountain,  Valley, 
and  Kiver  Scenery. 

Five  Hours  from  New  York,  6%  Miles  from  Springfield, 

Four  Hours  from  Boston,  Miles  from  Holyoke. 

All  Springfield  Railway  Trains  from  the  South,  East,  and  West  connect  with 
Trains  for  Holyoke  ; thence  to  Ingleside  by  cars  or  carriage. 

Trains  leave  Westfield  for  Ingleside,  at  9.25  A.  M.,  1.28  and  8.18  P.  M. 

Trains  leave  Holyoke,  6.40, 11.30,  A.  M.,  5.30  P.  M. 

Communications,  either  by  Letter  or  Telegram,  will  receive  Prompt  Attention. 
Address,  XNGEESIDE,  Holyoke,  Mass. 

6.  L.  HENRY,  Manager.  J.  S.  DAVIS,  Proprietor. 

Late  of  Haynes  Hotel. 


AD  VEIiTI SEME  NTS. 


CENTRALLY  LOCATED. 

CONTAINS  OVER  FOUR  HUNDRED  ROOMS. 

SUITES  AND  SINGLE  APARTMENTS,  WITH  BATHING  AND  WA- 
TER CONVENIENCES  ADJOINING. 

PARTICULARLY  DESIRABLE  FOR  FAMILIES  AND  SUMMER 
TOURISTS. 

PASSENGER  ELEVATOR  IN  CONSTANT  OPERATION. 
READING-ROOM,  BILLIARD-HALLS,  AND  TELEGRAPH-OFFICE. 


LEWIS  RICE  & SON,  Proprietors. 

56  Hanover  Street. 


AD  VERT1  SEME  NTS. 


7 


PARKER  HOUSE, 

School  Street, 


HARVEY  D.  PARKER, 
JOHN  F.  MILLS. 


BOSTON. 


OK-  THE  EUROPEAN  PLAN, 


The  most  comfortable  Dining-Rooms  and  Restaurant,  with  the  best 
service  and  cooking  to  be  found  in  Boston. 


8 


AD  VERTI SEMENTS. 


TREMONT  HOUSE, 

Comer  of  Beacon  and  Tremont  Sts.,  BOSTON. 


REVERE  HOUSE, 

Bowdoin  Square,  BOSTON 


The  above  well-established  First-Class  Hotels  are  now  in  perfect  appoint- 
ment, and  offer  unsurpassed  accommodations  to  tourist  and  traveller. 


June  1,  1873. 


CHAPIN,  GURNEY,  & CO., 

Proprietors. 


AD  VER  TI SEME  NTS.  9 


ON  THE  EUROPEAN  PLAN. 


Corner  of  Sixteenth  Street  and  Irving  Place, 

MEW  ¥©BE. 

The  location  of  this  house  is  one  of  the  most  central  yet  quiet  in  the 
City,  only  one  block  from  Union  Square,  and  within  easy  walking  distance 
of  all  the  places  of  amusement,  Tiffany’s,  Stewart’s,  Arnold  and  Con- 
stable’s, Lord  Taylor’s,  and  all  the  famous  Bazaars  of  the  metropolis. 

Rooms  from  $1.5©  to  $10.0©  per  day. 

CHARLES  B.  FERRIN, 

Proprietor.  f 


10  AD  VER  TISEMENTS. 

Ohk  Sill  Tloit^e, 

LITTLETON,  N.  H. 


The  site  on  which  it  is  built  has  long  been  a favorite  resort  of  the  tourist,  and  com- 
mands the  most  beautiful  and  extensive  views  of 


The  White  Mountains 

in  the  State.  From  the  piazza  of  the  house  the  whole  Mt.  Washington  range,  from 
Mooselook  to  Mt.  Adams,  may  be  plainly  seen,  giving  a magnificent  view  of  over 
eighty  miles,  — the  finest  in  New  England. 

The  rooms  are  large  and  commodious,  and  without  exception  afford  pleasant 
prospects.  The  furniture  throughout  is  new  and  nice.  The  grounds,  comprising  five 
acres,  are  being  fitted  up  with  a view  of  furnishing  all  the  out-door  exercises  and 
amusements  adapted  to  the  wants  of  summer  visitors.  The  house  is  supplied  with  the 
purest  of  running  water  from  a never-failing  spring  near  by. 


RURAL,  PICTURESQUE,  SECLUDED  WALKS  AND  RETREATS 

abound  within  a short  distance  of  the  house,  and  pleasant  rides  in  all  directions.  A 
good  Billiard  and  Bowling  Saloon  is  also  connected  with  the  premises. 

The  tables  are  supplied  with  all  the  luxuries  of  the  season,  and  are  not  excelled 
by  any  other  mountain  house. 

Being  located  within  the  precincts  of  one  of  the  most  flourishing  villages  of  North- 
ern New  Hampshire,  and  within  an  easy  ride  of  both  the  “ Notches,”  and 

ALL  THE  PROMINENT  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

about  the  White  Mountains,  and  within  five  minutes’  walk  of  White  Mountain  Rail- 
road Depot,  which  connects  with  the  Railroads  in  all  directions,  it  cannot  fail  to  be 
regarded  as  an  extremely  desirable  House  for  both  tourists  and  transient  guests. 

Transient  Guests,  $3.00  per  clay;  Boarders,  per  week,  $8.00 
to  $15.00,  according  to  room. 

CHAS.  C.  KNAPP  & CO. 

May  1,  1873. 


! 

1 

i\ 

\\ 


j 

<1 

i\ 

4 

s 

« 


I 


AD  VERT1SEMENTS. 


11 


PORTLAND  STEAM  PACKET  COMPANY. 

DAILY  LINE  OF  FIRST-CLASS  STEAMERS  BETWEEN 


Portland  and  Heston 


THROUGHOUT  THE  YEAR. 


One  of  the  splendid  Steamers  of  this  Line, 

JOHN  BROOKS,  - - MONTREAL,  - - FOREST  CITY, 

Will  leave  India  Wharf,  Boston,  every  evening,  Sundays  excepted,  connecting,  on 
arrival  at  Portland,  with  railway  trains  for 

North  Conway,  White  Mountains,  Gorham,  N.  H., 

Montreal,  Quebec,  and  all  parts  of  Canada. 

ALSO  WITH  STEAMERS  FOR 

Bangor,  Mt.  Desert,  Machias,  Halifax,  N.  S.,  Prince  Edward 
Island,  and  Cape  Breton. 

Returning,  leave  Portland  every  evening  for  Boston  (Sundays  excepted). 

Through.  Tickets  to  the  above  points  sold  on  board  the 
steamers. 


°Lth.1S  Line  are  “agnificently  furnished,  and  have  a large  number  of 
MbgTTNT  Anuvra«ry  StaKt.e-.rooms,  and  tourists  will  find  this  a most  pleasant  route  to  the 
FOUNTAINS,  combining  a short  sea-trip  and  a railway  ride. 

TIME  OF  SAILING. 

Eeav©  Boston,  in  Summer,  at  7 P.  M.  In  Winter,  at  5 p.  M. 

“ Portland,  in  Summer,  at  8 P.  M.  In  Winter,  at  7 P.  M. 


WM.  WEEKS,  Agent, 
INDIA  WHARF, 
Boston. 


W.  B.  BXBBINGS,  Agent, 
ATLANTIC  WHARF, 

Portland. 


] 2 AD  VER  TI SEME  NTS. 


Arrangement  for  1873. 


INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  COMP’Y 

LINE  OP  STEAMERS  BETWEEN 

BOSTON, 

PORTLAND,  EA8TP0RT,  & ST.  JOHN,  N.B., 

WITH  CONNECTIONS  TO  CAIAIS,  ME, 

HALT r>sr„  S-. 

1 

Charlottetown,  P.  E.  Isl,,  etc. 


The  favorite,  superior,  sea-going  steamers  of  this  line, 

NEW  YORK,  NEW  BRUNSWICK, 


CITY  OF  PORTLAND, 

Eeave  end  of  Commercial  Wliarf,  Boston,  at  8 A.  M.,  and 
Railroad  Wliarf,  Portland,  at  6 P.  M.,  for  East- 
port  and  St.  John  as  follows; 

In  April,  May,  and  June,  every  Monday  and  Thursday. 

In  July,  August,  September,  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  And  Friday. 
(From  July  8th  to  August  26th  a steamer  will  leave  every  Tuesday  in  addition,  mak- 
ing in  all  four  round  trips  per  week.) 

In  October  and  November  every  Monday  and  Thursday,  and  in  December 
every  Monday. 

Passengers  by  the  8}£  A.  M.  and  12)£  P.  M.  trains  of  Eastern  and  Boston  and 
Maine  Railroads  from  Boston  can  take  the  steamer  at  Portland  at  6 P.  M. 

Passengers  forwarded  by  connecting  steamers  and  railroad  lines  to  Calais  and 
Iloulton  Me.,  St.  Andrews,  Woodstock,  Fredericton,  and  Shediac,  N.  B.,  Amherst, 
Truro,  New  Glasgow,  Pictou,  Digby,  Annapolis,  Kentville,  Windsor,  Liverpool,  and 
Halifax,  N.  S.,  Summerside  and  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I. 

Rates  of  fare  from  Boston  to  Eastport,  $ 4.50  ; Calais,  $ 5.00  ; St.  John,  $ 5.00  ; 
St.  John  and  return,  $9.00-,  Digby,  6.50;  Annapolis,  $7.00;  Kentville,  $7.50; 
Halifax,  $ 8.50  ; Shediac,  $ 7.50  ; Summerside,  $9.00  ; Charlottetown,  $ 10.00. 

Through  tickets  and  State  Booms  secured  at  the  Agents’ 
offices  or  of  clerks  on  board. 

AGENTS:  A.  R.  Stubbs,  Portland;  George  Hayes,  Eastport;  Thomas  John- 
son, Calais;  H.  W.  Chisholm,  St.  John. 

W.  H.  KILBY,  End  of  Commercial  Wharf, 

BOSTON. 


AD  VER  TI  SEME  NTS.  1 3 


STONINGTON  LINE 

TO 

New  York,  PMMelpMa,  Baltimore,  Wasliiitoi, 

AND  ALL  POINTS  SOUTH  AND  WEST! 


Inside  Rente  via  Providence  and  Stonington. 


Connects  with  the  new  and  splendid  sea- going  Steamers, 

NARRAGANSETT,  STONINGTON, 

Capt.  Ray  Allen.  Capt.  Jesse  Mott. 


Passengers  will  take  the  Steamboat  Express  Train,  at  Boston  and  Providence 
Railroad  Station,  corner  of  Park  Square  and  Columbus  Avenue,  at  5.30  P.  M.,  arriv- 
ing in  New  York  the  following  morning  ahead  of  all  other  lines. 


SHORE  LINE 

VIA 

Providence,  New  London,  and  New  Haven, 

TO 

NEW  2 

PHILADELPHIA,  BALTIMORE,  WASHINGTON, 

AND  ALL  POINTS  SOUTH  AND  WEST! 

TWO  DAIRY  TRAINS  leave  from  the  Boston  and  Providence  Railroad 
Station,  corner  of  Park  Square  and  Columbus  Avenue. 

^1.10  A.  M.,  New  York  Express.  9.30  P.  M.,  New  York  Express. 

Sunday  Night  Mail,  0.3©  P.  M.  Wagner’s  Drawing-Room  Cars  on  all  Day 
Trains,  and  Sleeping  Cars  on  all  Night  Trains. 

Through  Tickets,  Berths,  and  Chairs  can  be  secured  at  the  Boston,  and  Providence 
Railroad  Station,  and  at  the  Office  of 

J.  W.  KIOHAKDSOIT,  Agent, 

§2  Waslirngtoii  Street,  . Boston. 


14  AD  VER  TISEMENTS. 

NOTICE! 



Passengers  en  route  for  the  West  who  travel  by  way  of 
THE  GREAT  PENNSYLVANIA  RAILROAD  have  the  privi- 
lege of  visiting  and  stopping  over,  for  any  length  of  time,  in 
the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  WITHOUT  EX- 
TRA CHARGE,  Tickets  good  until  used.  Baggage  checked 
through.  Heavy  Steel  Rails.  Suspension  Joints.  Double  ' 
Trach.  Road  ballasted  with  a bed  of  broken  limestone 
twenty  inches  deep.  Cars  lighted  by  gas  and  heated  by 
steam.  Free  from  Dust  and  the  action  of  Frost.  Iron  or  Stone 
Bridges.  No  Trestle-work.  Trains  run  by  Telegraph.  Per- 
fect Signal  Service.  Westinghouse  Air  - Brahes.  Pullman 

t 

Day  and  Sleeping  Cars  to  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  Indianapolis, 
Eouisville,  St.  Eouis,  and  intermediate  points  WITHOUT 
CHANGE,  and  to  Quincy,  Kansas  City,  Sioux  City,  Omaha,  ' 
Cleveland,  Milwaukee,  St.  Paul,  Memphis,  Mobile,  New  Or- 
leans, and  Denison,  Texas,  with  BUT  ONE  CHANGE  of  cars. 
Continuous  Trains  — no  connections  to  miss.  No  Midnight 
Changes.  No  Detention  from  Snow.  Courteous  Employees. 

Unusual  facilities  for  Superior  Meals  at  suitable  hours. 

UNEQUALLED  in  Structure,  Equipment,  Speed,  Comfort, 
and  Security.  Unrivalled  in  Beauty  and  Variety  of  Scenery. 
Rates  always  as  low  as  by  any  other  Route. 

THROUGH  TICKETS 

TO  ALL  POINTS  IN  THE  WESTERN  AND  SOUTHERN  STATES 

FOR  SALE  AT 

77  and  79  Washington  Street,  Boston, 

AND  PRINCIPAL  TICKET  OFFICES  IN  NEW  ENGLAND. 

CYRUS  S.  HARDEMAN,  . . New  England  Agent. 


AD  VER  TI  SEME  NTS.  1 5 


OSGOOD’S  LIBRARY  OF  NOVELS. 


Woven  of  Many  Threads.  50  cents. 

The  Member  for  Paris.  By  Trois  Etoiles.  75  cents. 

Nobody’s  Fortune.  By  Edmund  Yates.  75  cents. 

Can  the  Old  Love  ? By  Z.  B.  Buddington.  Illustrated.  75  cents. 
Kate  Beaumont.  By  J.  W.  De  Forest.  Illustrated.  75  cents. 

A Crown  from  the  Spear.  By  the  Author  of  “ Woven  of  Many 
Threads.”  75  cents. 

Broken  Toys.  By  Anna  C.  Steele.  75  cents. 

Only  Three  Weeks.  50  cents. 

Reginald  Archer.  By  the  Author  of  “Emily  Chester.”  75  cents. 

The  Foe  in  the  Household.  By  Caroline  Chesebro’.  75  cents. 
Something  to  Do.  75  cents. 

Ilia.  By  Katherine  Valerio.  75  cents. 

The  Marquis  de  Villemer.  By  George  Sand.  75  cents. 

Cesarine  Dietrich.  By  George  Sand.  75  cents. 

A Rolling  Stone.  By  George  Sand.  50  cents. 

Handsome  Lawrence.  By  George  Sand.  50  cents. 

The  Lost  Despatch.  50  cents. 

The  Mystery  of  Orcival.  By  Emile  Gaboriau.  75  cents. 

M Six  Months  Hence.”  75  cents. 

Choisy.  By  James  P.  Story.  75  cents. 

Love  and  Valor.  By  Tom  Hood.  75  cents. 

Ethel  Mildmay’s  Follies.  75  cents. 

I The  Story  of  Sibylle.  By  Octave  Feuillet.  75  cents. 

The  Lady  of  Lyndon.  By  Lady  Blake.  75  cents. 

The  Comedy  of  Terrors.  By  J.  DeMille.  75  cents. 

The  Yellow  Flag.  By  Edmund  Yates.  75  cents. 

Not  Easily  Jealous.  75  cents. 

The  Widow  Lerouge.  By  Emile  Gaboriau.  75  cents. 

Not  without  Thorns.  By  Ennis  Graham.  75  cents. 

Ready-Money  Mortiboy.  75  cents. 

Ruth  Maxwell.  By  Lady  Blake.  75  cents. 

Ropes  of  Sand.  75  cents. 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  & CO.,  PUBLISHERS,  BOSTON. 


AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


16 


THE  SUREST  RAILWAY  GUIDE-BOOK 

IS 

Snow’s  Pathfinder  Railway  Guide, 

FOR  THE  HEW  ENGLAND  STATES; 

Established  July,  1849, 

BY  AUTHORITY  OF  THE  NEW  ENGLAND  ASSOCIATION 
OF  RAILROAD  SUPERINTENDENTS. 


The  only  OFFICIAL  Work  of  the  kind. 

It  is  printed  in  Book  Form  on  the  First  Monday  in  every  Month  — containing  t 
OFFICIAL  TIME-TABLES  of  the  Railway  Companies,  with  Stations,  { 
Distances,  Fares,  etc.,  etc.,  and  other  important  information  respecting  Rail-  , 
way,  Steamboat,  and  Stage  Routes,  and  is  accompanied  by  a complete  map 
of  the  railway  system  of  New  England. 

A WEEKLY  SUPPLEMENT 

is  printed  every  Monday  Morning,  containing  a simple  statement  of  trains  leaving 
Boston  and  return  times*,  also,  leaving  time  of  Steamers,  and  the  change  of  time  on  | 
all  New  England  Roads  which  may  occur  after  the  Book  is  printed. 

Single  copies,  15  cents*,  sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price.  Subscription  price,  | 
$2  50  per  annum,  including  12  copies  of  the  book  and  52  of  the  Supplement. 

GEO.  K.  SNOW  & BRADLEE,  Publishers, 

* 89  Court  St.,  Boston,  j 


RELIEF  EW  OF  THE  WHITE  FOUNTAINS. 


This  Map,  published  at  the  office  of  Snow’s  Pathfinder  Railway  Guide,  is  the 
only  Map  of  the  White  Mountains  which  gives  the  travellers  an  exact  idea  of  the 
comparative  elevation  of  the  several  peaks,  or  depths  of  the  ravines.  It  is  prepared 
in  the  most  accurate  manner,  and  presents  a bird’s-eye  view  of  the  entire  region  as 
it  would  appear  to  the  eye  of  a balloonist  when  elevated  far  above  the  entire  range. 

It  measures  9 by  11  inches,  and  is  enclosed  in  a framework  to  protect  it.  The 
material  used  in  its  manufacture  is  Papier-Mache,  and  the  entire  work  was  executed 
in  Germany  for  the  Publishers,  and  is  offered  to  the  public  at  the  low  price  of  $ 1.50, 
or  will  be  sent  by  mail,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price.  Also,  for  sale  at  all  the  Hotels 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  White  Mountains,  and  at  the  leading  Bookstores.  Railroads, 
Stage-Routes,  Hotels,  Rivers,  and  all  points  of  interest  faithfully  and  accurately 
located. 

GEO.  K.  SNOW  & BRADLEE,  Publishers, 

SO  Court  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


AD  VER  TISEMENTS. 


17 


ADVICE  TO  TRAVELERS. 

Every  man  who  travels,  and  every  other  man,  is  more 
or  less  exposed  to  death  or  injury  by  accident.  Such  men 
are  reminded  that  there  is  a company  organized  for  the 
special  purpose  of  insuring  against  accidents  to  life  and 
limb.  Not  against  accidents  of  travel  alone,  bub  against 
accidents  in  general. 

So  well  has  this  company  prosecuted  the  business  of  Acci- 
dent Insurance,  that  it  has  written  upwards  of  two  hundred 
and  eighty-five  thousand  policies,  and  paid  over  Two  Mil- 
lion Dollars  in  benefits  to  its  policy-holders.  We  refer,  of 
course,  to  the  Travelers  Insurance  Company,  of  Hart- 
ford, Conn.,  which  has  cash  assets  of  Two  and  a Half  Mil- 
lions, is  every  way  sound  and  reliable,  and  promptly  pays 
all  just  claims. 

Every  man,  whether  he  travels  much  or  little,  should 
have  one  of  the  general  accident  policies  of  the  Travelers. 
Thousands  of  men  have  them,  and 

“ There ’s  room  for  thousands  more.5* 

COST  OF  A YEAKLY  ACCIDENT  POLICY 

Taj  (rum  rFW  . t ^ 


Amount 

Insured. 

Weekly 

Indemnity. 

ANNUAL  PREMIUM. 

Class 

Preferred. 

Class 

Ordinary. 

Class 

Medium.. 

1,000 

2,000 

3.000 

5.000 
10,000 

5.00 
10.00 
15-00  * 

25.00 

50.00 

5.00 

10.00 

15.00 

25.00 

50.00 

7.50 

15.00 

22.50 

37.50 

75.00 

10.00 

20.00 

30.00 

50.00 

Bankers,  Bookkeepers  etc  Wergymen’  Editors-  La^“S,  Merchants,  Clerks* 

Butchers,  M'asonsj P^Ct°TS’  Carpenters’  B‘**smiths,  Tanners, 
*^'^1873°  aDy  Agent’  °r  ''rUe  t0  the  CoInpaDy>  at  Hartford,  Conn. 


DAILY,  $10  a Year;  WEEKLY,  $2;  SEMI- WEEKLY,  $3. 


AD  VER  TI SEMEN  TS. 


UJ 

m 

yy 

□c 


^a°i 

a -d  O w 4 

«o^S( 
n !z  oS  i 

L3  ^ , 


,n)  2 ® 


o 53  •£ 


W 


LU  H 


! & S * 

I £?"=£' 

?3  co  ^ 
c»!m 

§ d 

o « *d 
o i 

m a; 
^ a S3 
5 2 o 

3 * a 


ftS 

d 

S3  a> 
as  "d 


£ 80  'd  a 


> 03  ’3 


d «8 


X d 

“M'S 
u w .3 

a>  Ed 

a £ ® 

^ a 


s a 


35;, 


EH<§a 


W 42  5 -4 


g S v.  •> 

? 1*2  1 1 


llj 


; g"  > 2* 


^□^52 


» oJjd 

g«^ 

bp  „s 


!?■§  9 o:i;5 


2^.2 
d g 
Ed  d 

..  r> 

as,: 


5-2.1 


tn  o < 

_ „ .2  Eh  < 

.SlS  1 


i a g* 

Uh3  13  08 


>»  55  ’c3 

S3  g2 

*3^1 
.2  £ a 

9g.g 

8®?g 

5 g § 
n o 
X.H  ^ 

_.  d,-*-  c3 

,9  ao 
0 d todj 
.2  w ^ ,d 
43  o 03  *-» 
^ -2  QJ  5 13 
3 ho  *jr  a 9 

■tl&IS 


o o 

O Id 

c4  *4 

m 


UJ 

ss 

09 

eg 

h— 

>» 


5 eh  « .2  .2  i 


PH  *-  ® O 

-w  O J3  ho  (S 

-a  a S3  d M 

d * 13  fl  43  «> 

"h;  pq  0 rn  — 


g jalai 


S5.S 

& 

« s 

cj  > 

an  "5o 
x o 


PQ  > 
2 £ 


W 

i—i  3d 


d >iH 

o-;3 
2 gH 

a _, 

oS.S 

in 

-4J  «) 

ill 

!i* 

^ u c3 

<13  03 

•;  ao. 


o>  > d 

hd3  d » a 


La 


5 

a 

o 

Ph 


’S'd  £ 
f qS 

O§0| 


o -g  © 
» 2?  JS 


• O 

. IS 


. *-<  03 

2 <13  d 

5?  t>  S 


2 .*13  ‘v 

•g  I 8.2  ®v 

5*§§dg 

glid’d  g 
d a § >5  o s 
a§ 1 3 

.2  8 £ A <J  ,o 


•SB* 

a | 2 
° « >» 
2^  « 


si  " 


yy 

ss 

=* 

S 

es 


21-s|.-iU^  | ill'll  || 
isl-s"  !st-Siia  gs^ 

^d|S‘2^ 


S S 


5 & O 
1 d x , 
3 43  no 


d <m 


3 5 13  eS  , 


.'o  § d a 


P.  2 ! 


I®g-3ll|a^g'esa'sa 

L^S  03T3.S2*3  fl  > 60  o d"  .,  Ss  G 

a3&,’dc^i9a2^s=d.S^*Jg 

> " I =«  ba  ^^2^  S.2.2.2  fl 

^Sl«S*>’s-s£-cs§ 

r'B-S-8^fci>^iS.s^  st§ 

LSJ  £-5^  §.2-  8^  *3  ftt;-  - T3 

^ sll  .grfallSsIfs* 


«C 

O 


“ -2  « £ § 
o ^ g SS 
_ §«_2  V 

43  oT  S 1” 

§ H g «PJ 
& c.  -'d  ^ 
fe  d 8 ! 1 


- U X .9  ^ 

o 43  C4  53 

£'~  «g  -g  fl 
’o.£  s « 
a^  8 

03  C3  03  *- 
X OJ 

§ l!  = 

S S S St : 

*>  SB  2 < 


r?q! 


■a 

o 

kH 

& 

o 

H 

t> 

PQ 

M 

PH 

EH 

H 

W 

EH 


T5 

<1 


. _.d  13  W bT  -d  03 

^ ■=  £ a §•  a 

•S  gSfr  8 8 S 

4,11 1 8 .£  g 

d wS(M  O PM  eh 


Ou 


Q 2 


AD  VER  TI SEME  NTS. 


19 


c5 A 
<v  tfn  a 

£v  S? 


sd  a ! 

Jjpsi 

pq^.S  g.®  § 

£ gM  > • 
W CS  M ^ J 

EG  >»  Na 00  • 
§0)3 

p » g a 5 

H P o 

r-s  3 a. -a  s-  *- 
VJ  42  GQGQ  O Ph 


20  AD  VER  TI SEME  NTS. 


DREXEL  AND  CO. 

34  South  Third  Street, 

PHILADELPHIA. 


DREXEL,  MORGAN,  AND  CO. 

Broad  and  Wall  Streets, 

NEW  YORK. 

DREXEL,  HARJES,  AND  CO. 

31  Boulevard  Haussmann, 

PARIS. 


BANKERS. 


TRAVELERS’  AND  COMMERCIAL  CREDITS 

AVAILABLE  IN  ALL  THE  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS 
AND  CITIES  OP  EUROPE. 


AD  VER  TI  SEME  NTS. 


21 


WONDERFUL  SUCCESS  OF 

Dr.T.  FELIX  GOURAUD’S “ORIENTAL  CREAM,” 

OR 

XCagical  Beaatifier. 

ITS  FAME  IS  RAPIDLY  SPREADING  OVER  THE  COUNTRY. 


See  the  avalanche  of  Testimonials,  selected  from  thousands,  in  its  praise. 

A French  lady  writes  : 

Mons.  Gouraud,  — ’T  is  but  an  act  of  justice  that  I should  spontaneously  give  you 
my  unqualified  testimonial  of  the  united  efficacy,  innocence,  and  fragrance  of  your 
preparation  for  purifying  and  cleansing  the  skin.  By  its  use  every  pimple  and  freckle 
have  vanished  from  my  face.  You  should,  Mon  Ami,  as  it  is  so  sovereign  and  charm- 
ing a remedy  for  scattering  all  blemishes  from  our  faces,  call  it  le  delice  des  dames.  En 
un  mot,je  suis  enchante  de  le  cosmetique  etj’en  vous  remercie  de  tout  mon  coeur. 

Emille  Desmoulins,  Madison  Avenue. 

The  following;  from  the  Eminent  Tragedienne,  Mrs.  D.  P.  Bowers. 

Dr.  Gouraud,  — Will  you  send  six  bottles  of  your  “ Oriental  Cream  ” to  the  above 
address,  not  forgetting  to  be  reasonable  in  price?  Yours  Truly,  Mrs.  D.  P.  Bowers. 


The  following  from  Mrs.  Col.  Young:,  Bady  of  Col.  Young:,  of 
“ Young’s  Kentucky  Cavalry.” 

Dr.  T.  Felix  Gouraud.  Hamilton,  Ohio,  July  7,  1859. 

Dear  Sir,  — Some  weeks  since  I wrote  to  you,  enclosing  the  Sunday  Despatch, 
with  a notice  of  your  valuable  cosmetic,  “ Oriental  Cream.”  I fear  that  you  did  not 
receive  my  communication ; if  not,  I shall  be  much  pleased  to  hear  from  you,  and  also 
gratified  to  receive  a half-dozen  of  your  charming  preparation  for  the  complexion. 
Your  “ Oriental  Cream  ” should  be  immortalized,  as  1 have  no  doubt  it  is  already  by 
many  a fair  dealer  in  this  charming  device  for  rendering  youth  immortal.  The  wo- 
men are  all  crazy  to  know  my  recipe  for  a brilliant  complexion.  I have  lost  half  of  my 
good  looks  already  for  the  want  of  this  indispensable  luxury,  as  I am  travelling  for 
the  health  of  my  little  boy.  Obediently  yours,  F.  L.  Young. 


From  the  Countess  de  Bierski,  a Beading:  Society  Bady. 

Dr.  Gouraud.  Rochester,  February  18,  1867. 

Dear  Sir,  — Please  send  me  two  more  bottles  of  your  charming  “ Oriental  Cream,” 
by  American  Express,  and  oblige  Yours  respectfully,  Countess  de  Bierski. 


From  Miss  Fannie  Stockton,  the  Prima  Donna  of  the  Opera  House. 

Buffalo,  December,  1866. 

Dr.  T.  F.  Gouraud,  — I do  not  wish  to  put  anything  else  in  contact  with  my  face, 
so  delighted  am  I with  this  matchless  cosmetique.  Please  send  me  ten  bottles. 

Fannie  Stockton. 

Bangor,  Me. 

Dr.  Gouraud,  — I have  found  your  “ Cream”  so  delicious;  it  softens  and  makes 
the  skin  so  beautiful : it  does  give  me  faith  in  your  other  preparations. 

Miss  Anna  G***. 

St.  Louis. 

Dr.  T.  Felix  Gouraud,  — The  “ Cream  ” is  the  nicest  wash  for  the  skin ; it  is  ex- 
cellent.   — Mrs.  E.  Curtin. 

Boston. 

Dr.  Gouraud, —Your  “ Oriental  Cream”  is  perfectly  delicious;  it  is  so  cooling 
and  refreshing.  Mrs.  Eaton. 

From  Evans,  the  celebrated  Perfumer,  of  Philadelphia. 

Philadelphia,  April  30, 1868. 

Dr.  Gouraud,  — I think  your  “ Cream  ” is  unquestionably  the  best  thing  in  this 
line,  from  the  reason,  when  a lady  once  uses  it  she  continues  it  in  preference  to  any- 
thing else.  Our  customers  for  it  are  regular  ones.  I find  it  is  retailed  by  the  drug- 
gists and  fancy  stores  at  Two  Dollars  a bottle  yet.  There  is  more  sold  here  than  you 
are  aware  of.  What  is  required  to  insure  a large  sale  is  a liberal  amount  spent  in  ju- 
dicious advertising.  Let  the  ladies  know  its  merits,  and  especially  the  price,  and  if 
they  once  try  it  we  secure  a regular  customer.  If  I was  the  owner,  I would  sell  mere 
of  it  in  this  city  than  all  the  rest  of  the  skin  preparations  put  together.  T.  W.  Evans. 


Prepared  and  invented  by  DR.  T.  FEBIX  GOURAUD,  48  Bond  St.,  N.  Y. 
Established  1839.  To  be  had  of  Druggists,  &c. 


AD  VER  TISEMENTS. 


22 


POPULAR  NEW  BOOKS. 


WHAT  TO  WEAR? 

By  Elizabeth  Stuart  Phelps,  author  of  “ The  Gates  Ajar,”  “The  Silent  Part- 
ner,” etc.  1 vol.  16mo.  Paper,  50  cents  ; Cloth  $ 1.00. 

CONTENTS.  — Gorgons  or  Graces?  — “Dressed  to  kill.”  — The  Moral  of  it.— 
What  can  we  do  about  it  ? — After- thoughts.  — Our  Fashion  Plate. 


AMONG  THE  ISLES  OF  SHOALS. 

By  Celia  Thaxter.  Illustrated  by  H.  Fenn.  1 vol.  Small  4to.  $1.50. 
“ A book  no  one  who  visits  the  islands  can  do  without.”  — Boston  Advertiser. 


A CHANCE  ACQUAINTANCE. 

By  W.  D.  Howells,  author  of  “ Venetian  Life,”  “Italian  Journeys,”  “ Suburban 
Sketches,”  “Their  Wedding  Journey,”  etc.  1 vol.  Small  4to.  Uniform  with 
“ Bits  of  Travel,”  “ Among  the  Isles  of  Shoals.”  $ 1.50. 

“ A delicious  summer  idyl.”  — Hartford  Courant . 


GREG’S  Enigmas  of  Life.  $2.00. 

A thoughtful,  earnest,  independent  man,  calmly  and  profoundly  discussing  several 
of  the  most  perplexing  questions  of  human  experience  and  destiny. 


MATTHEW  ARNOLD’S  Literature  and  Dogma. 

$1.50. 

A book  of  surpassing  interest  on  a theme  of  great  importance  to  all  thoughtful 
readers. 


MRS.  WHITNEY’S  The  Other  Girls.  $2.00. 

Fascinating,  wise,  witty,  full  of  entertainment  and  suggestions  to  noble  and  happy 
living. 


WARNER’S  My  Summer  in  a Garden.  $1.00. 
Saunter ings.  $ 1.50. 

Backlog  Studies.  $2.00. 

Three  of  the  freshest,  wittiest,  most  sensible,  and  most  readable  books  in  American 
literature. 


KATE  FIELD’S  Hap-Hazard.  Uniform  with  “ A Chance 
Acquaintance.”  $1.50. 

“ One  of  the  brightest,  freshest,  breeziest  books  of  the  season.”  — Boston  Cor- 
respondent New  York  Tribune . 

***  For  sale  by  Booksellers.  Sent,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price  by  the  Publishers, 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  & CO.,  Boston. 


AD  VER  T1SEMENTS. 


23 


CHICKERING  & SONS' 


Have  taken  the  First  Premium 


IN  AMERICA,  ENGLAND,  AND  FRANCE. 


THESE  STANDARD  INSTRUMENTS  ARE  NOW  OFFERED 
AT  REDUCED  RATES  ON  THE 


ONE-PRICE  SYSTEM. 


OF  THESE  STANDARD  PIANO-FORTES  HAVE  BEEN  MADE  AND  SOLD 
SINCE  1823,  AND 

Eighty-One  First  Premiums  have  been  awarded 
to  our  Firm  over  all  Competition. 


These  Pianos  are  still  regarded  and  universally  conceded  to  be 


THE  STANDARD  INSTRUMENTS  OF  THE  WORLD, 


CHICKERING  & SONS, 

791  Tremont  Street,  Boston. 11E.  14th  Street,  New  York. 


PIANOS 


OVER  ALL  COMPETITION 


and  are  so  pronounced  by  all  the  great  artists. 

says  : “ I consider  the  Chickering  Piano  superior  to  any  made  in 

Z . JLTTfl  H ID  fill  nT  AAn r.  <.  il • . i , -i  •• 


A CAIiD. 

We  call  especial  attention  to  our 


24  AD  VER  TISE  ME  NTS. 


FURNACES  I COOKING-RANGES. 

A long  and  thorough  practical  and  successful  experience  in  the  invention  and  man- 
ufacture of  Furnaces  in  their  various  forms  of  Cast  and  Wrought  Iron  has  enabled 
me  to  really  understand  how  to  make  a furnace  smoke  and  gas  tight , and  to  combine 
all  the  essentials  requisite  for  HEALTH,  ECONOMY,  and  DURABILITY  in  warming 
buildings ; and  from  the  testimony  of  the  many  thousands  in  use  it  would  seem  to  be 
only  a question  of  time  when  my  Improved  Furnaces,  Brick  and  Portables , would  be 
in  quite  general  use  all  over  the  country. 

CHILSON’S  NSW  AND  SPLENDID  BRICK-SET 

Cooking-Range,  The  Arlington. 

On  this  Range  I am  willing  to  rest  my  reputation  as  an  inventor  and  manufacturer 
of  strictly  first-class  work.  Forty  years  of  thorough,  practical  experience  in  busi- 
ness have  enabled  me  to  know  how  to  make  a Range  that  shall  combine  all  the  facili- 
ties that  can  be  desired  for  all  culinary  purposes.  The  kitchen,  in  our  modern-built 
houses,  has  become  a room  of  the  first  importance  in  good  household  economy.  The 
cheap,  rough,  and  slightly  made  Ranges  of  former  days,  that  required  so  much 
repairs  and  were  such  wasteful  consumers  of  fuel,  are  rapidly  giving  place  to  a better 
class  of  work,  which  will  truly  be  found  in  this  Range. 

CHILSON’S  NEW 

Portable  Cooking-Range,  The  Arlington. 

This  is  the  most  desirable  Portable  Range,  in  all  respects,  ever  offered  for  sale,  and 
the  same  is  substantially  true  of  the 

Arlington  Cooking  - Stove. 

Also,  a fine  assortment  of  PARLOR  AND  OTHER  HEATING  STOYES,  in- 
cluding the  much-admired  * 

COMB  BISK  STOlFBj, 

FOR  THOROUGHLY  AND  ECONOMICALLY  WARMING  RAILWAY-CARS, 
STORES,  FACTORIES,  HALLS,  &c. 

Special  attention  given  to  putting  up  Furnaces  and  Ranges, 
and  the  Ventilation  of  Buildings,  in  any  part  of  the  eountry. 

\£j=*  Nothing  but  strictly  first-elass  work  is  manufactured  by  me. 

WAREROOMS,  99  & 101  BLACKSTONE  ST.,  BOSTON. 

FOUNDRY  AT  MANSFIELD,  MASS. 

CJAUPIVER  CHILSOW. 


THE  BEST  SQUARE  PIANOS  IN  THE  WORLD. 

THE 

HENRY  F.  MILLER 

PIANOS. 

Used  in  the  Public  Schools  of  Boston, 

In  the  New  England  Conservatory  of 
Music, 

(The  largest  Music  School  in  the  World,) 

In  the  Boston  Music  School, 

v" 

And  by  our  best  Resident  Musicians. 

* • 

HENRY  F.  DULLER, 


BOSTON. 


THE  SHORT  AND  SEA-SHORE  ROUTE! 


Eastern  Railroad. 


CONNECTIONS  ARE  MADE  AT  PORTLAND 

WITH  ALL  THE 

RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  LINES 

TO  AND  FROM  ALL  PARTS  OF  THE 

STATE  OF  MAINE  AND  MARITIME  PROVINCES. 


THIS  IS  THE  ONLY  LINE 

Running:  Five  Trains  Daily  between  Boston  and  Portland. 

THIS  IS  THE  ONLY  LINE 

Authorized  to  sell  through  tickets  to  points  on  Knox  and  Lincoln, 
Maine  Central,  and  European  and  North  American  Railways. 

THIS  IS  THE  ONLY  LINE  RUNNING 

A NIGHT  EXPRESS  TRAIN  BETWEEN  BOSTON  & BANGOR. 

THIS  IS  THE  ONLY  LINE 

Running:  Pullman  Parlor  and  Palace  Sleeping:  Cars  between  Boston 
and  the  East. 

THIS  IS  THE  ONLY  LINE 

Between  Boston,  Portland,  Aug:usta,  and  Banger  without  change 
of  Cars. 

THE  SHORTEST  AND  ONLY  ROUTE  BETWEEN 

BOSTON,  NORTH  CONWAY,  AND  WHITE  MOUNTAINS, 

WITHOUT  CHANGE  OF  CARS. 

Conductors  accompany  Passengers  through  to  Bang:or,  also  to  North 

Conway. 

29  Ocean  'Watering-Places 

on  this  road  between  Boston  and  Portland. 

This  is  decidedly  the.  Sea-Shore  Route,  by  taking:  which  Passengers  will 
avoid  the  dust  and  heat  of  Summer. 

PULLMAN  CARS  ON  ALL  THROUGH  TRAINS. 

All  Modern  Improvements  are  in  use  on  this  road. 

BOSTON  OFFICE,  134  WASHINGTON  STREET. 

Before  purchasing  tickets  refer  to  Maps,  Advertisements,  etc.  of  this  company,  to  be  had 
of  all  principal  ticket  agents  in  the  United  States  and  Provinces,  and 

SECURE  THE  MANY  ADVANTAGES  THIS  LINE  OFFERS. 


J.  PRESCOTT,  GEO.  RUSSELL,  GEO.  F.  FIELD, 

Sup’t.  Gen’l  Ticket  Ag’t.  Gen’l  Pass.  Ag’t. 


SEE  THAT  YOU  ARE  RICHT,  AND  THEN  GO  AHEAD ! 


FACTS ! FACTS  ! ! 

Eastern  Railroad. 

SEA-SHORE  ROUTE 

Between  Boston,  M Conway,  and  Wlite  Mountains. 

The  Conway  division  of  the  Eastern  Railroad  was  opened  to  the  public  June  24,  1872, 
and  is  the  shortest  route  to  North  Conway  and  the  White  Mountains. 

Two  Fast  Express  Trains  each  way  Daily, 


DISTANCE,  BOSTON  TO  NORTH  CONWAY  137  MILES. 

41  miles  shorter  to  North  Conway, 

50  44  44  to  Glen, 

62  44  44  to  Crawford  than  via  any  other  Route. 

A FAST  LINE  OP  STAGES,  AND  THE  ONLY  LINE,  between  North  Con- 
way and  Glen  and  Crawford’s  will  run  in  connection  with  trains,  allowing  ample  time  for 
dinner, 

ADVANTAGES  OFFERED  BY  NO  OTHER  ROUTE. 

Passengers  to  and  from  the  Mountains  will  find  this  the  ONLY  DIRECT  ROUTE  to  and 
from  the  following  places:  — 

CHELSEA,  PIGEON  COVE,  BOAR’S  HEAD,  RYE  BEACH, 
ISLES  OF  SHOALS,  AND  YORK  BEACH. 

The  only  Line  running  the  Pullman  Cars  between  Boston,  North 
Conway,  and  White  Mountains. 

THE  ONLY  ALL  RAIL  LINE  BETWEEN  BOSTON  & WOLFBORO 

(ON  LAKE  WINNEPISEOGEE), 

FOUR  TRAINS  EACH  WAY  DAILY. 


ALL  MODERN  IMPROVEMENTS 

ARE  IN  USE  ON  THIS  ROAD. 


SEATS  IN  PARLOR  CARS  can  be  secured  by  letter  or  telegraph 
at  the  BOSTON  OFFICE,  134  WASHINGTON  STREET,  or  of  STATION  AGENT, 
NORTH  CONWAY. 

Before  purchasing  tickets,  refer  to  Maps,  Advertisements,  etc.,  of  this 
Company,  to  be  obtained  at  the  Ticket  0 dices  in  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Wash- 
ington. Montreal,  Quebec,  and  White  Mountains.  Also,  of  the  principal  Ticket  Agents  in 
the  United  States,  and 

SECURE  THE  MAHY  ADVANTAGES  THIS  LIKE  OFFERS. 


J.  PRESCOTT.  GEO.  RUSSELL,  GEO.  F.  FIELD. 

Superintendent.  Gen’l  Ticket  Ag’t.  Gen’l  Pass.  Ag’t. 


